Category: Home & Garden

Often overlooked, the lovely little white or yellow blossoms of the magical elder shrub are also edible and medicinal, with some very special benefits of their own.

These enchanting little white or yellow clusters of flowers emit a summery sweet fragrance. The flower essence is said to instill a sense of youthfulness, vigor, and restore inner strength.

These delightful blossoms have a long history of medicinal use and are often used to flavor food and drinks. Read on to learn about their miraculous properties and some of the many ways you can use elderflower.

Medicinal Benefits

Both the berries and the flowers of the elder plant have been used for medicine for thousands of years. While both have similar affinities for boosting the immune system and fighting off infection, elderflowers have some additional unique uses.

As an immune stimulator, elderflower tea can provide soothing relief for acute cold systems.

The booms are a key component of a traditional tea blend taken to reduce flavor. A concoction of elderflower, yarrow, and mint is a great fever fighter, and was often used historically for measles and chickenpox.

Blooms can also be used to treat conjunctivitis and soothe red itchy eyes, reduce pain and swelling in acute joint inflammation, and relieve toothaches. They are natural antihistamines, and when taken prior to the appearance of pollen, can ease symptoms of seasonal allergies.

As a nervous system support, it is said they have the capacity to heal deep grief, helping to open people’s eyes to the magic of the world.

Clinical studies are even starting to show that these flowers can reduce blood sugar, potentially useful for addressing type 2 diabetes.

Harvesting and Preparing for Use

Depending on your climate, elder shrubs may bloom at various times over the summer between June and August.

To harvest, pick a warm dry day when the plant is in full bloom. Harvest during the morning or evening to keep the picked flowers from wilting in the sun or try to find a shady place to set them while you work.

Pluck off entire clusters of blossoms at the base, shake gently to dislodge any hidden insects, and place each bundle into your basket or bag.

If you don’t have any elder plants in your yard don’t worry! Just look for wild ones on the edges of streams, ponds, or along other disturbed edges such as fences or roads.

If you also plan to harvest the berries later in the season, pick flowers selectively, leaving some clusters intact here and there.

I would recommend taking no more than a third on each plant. This is good practice anyway, as it is best to always leave some behind for the birds and the bees!

Once harvested, you can preserve for later use by drying and storing in tightly lidded jars in a dark place.

To dry, lay flowers on trays or mesh screen and leave in a dark, dry place for about a week.

When fully dry, make sure they are still a similar yellow or white color to when they were fresh. Browning can be prevented by avoiding light during the drying process.

If you prefer, you can also leave flowers attached to the stem while drying and hang in bunches in a cool, dark location. I often dry herbs in a back closet.

Ways to Use for Food and Medicine

There are so many great ways to use this enchanting herb. The following are a few ideas on ways to utilize them in food, medicine, and even cosmetics. Try out a few of these suggestions or concoct your own recipes!

3. Salve for Inflammation Relief

Use a salve or lotion made from the blossoms to reduce inflammation and pain from sprains and strains.

You can incorporate other healing herbs such as calendula, comfrey, or st. John’s wort for additional support.

4. Soothing Eye Wash

Make an eye wash for relief from itchy eyes, conjunctivitis, or hay fever. Just make a batch of elderflower tea, let cool, and rinse! You can also try soaking a washcloth in the cool tea and use as an eye compress.

5. Syrup

A syrup for fighting off colds, flus, and winter blues can be made with flowers of the elder tree as well as the berries. Or combine them for maximum benefit and flavor!

This article on elderberries includes an easy recipe for syrup (see unpublished elderberry harvest article) Just incorporate or substitute in the blossoms.

6. Cosmetics

Back in the Victorian era, elderflower water was often used as a skin cleansing lotion, believed to keep the skin young and free of blemishes.

Use of elder blossoms in cosmetics is beginning to make a comeback, and can often be found in lotions, oils, and body butters that claim to reduce wrinkles, soften skin, and slow aging.

7. Cordial

A cordial is a type of sweet soft drink that is historically popular in Western Europe and has been brewed since the Roman era.

Delightfully fragrant and sweet, this concentrated syrup can be added to drinks or even mixed into recipes such as cakes and pancakes.

To make a cordial, boil the flowers for at least minutes, strain, and add in equal parts sugar to the remaining volume of water. Including a splash of lemon juice and citric acid will help preserve the cordial and add a pleasant tartness.

To use in drinks, pour 1 to 3 tablespoons into a glass and add water, seltzer, tonic water, sparking wine, vodka, or gin.

Tip: Make a large batch all at once and freeze the extra for later use.

8. Cocktails

Try out a fun and unique cocktail. Simply mix the flowers with lemon or lime peel or lemon balm and infuse in vodka for a couple of weeks. Strain out the liquid, add sugar syrup, and let the concoction sit for two more weeks.

This refreshing spirit will certainly make a splash at your next party!

You can also experiment with other alcohol of choice. Personally, I love making elderflower gin and tonics!

10. Cooking with Elderflower

Use the cordial and/or dried flowers in cakes, tarts, jams, pies, or pancakes! The blossoms are great when balanced with tart fruits such as rhubarb. They are also delightful baked with strawberries and raspberries.

Light, floral, and delicious, these summer blossoms can really be incorporated in just about any dish. I have even seen recipes for elderflower yogurt!

Want to try something a bit more out of the box? Check out this recipe for a refreshing cucumber elderflower sorbet.

11. Herbal Vinegar

Steep the crushed herb in vinegar for about a month. Use your vinegar of choice. Apple cider, white wine, or champagne are all great options. Strain and use in salad dressings or sauces.

In similar fashion, you can also infuse elderflowers in honey or cooking oil. Use your imagination!

I absolutely love thin chocolate mints. I mean, I love sweet things in general, but those cool mint patties coated in thin layers of dark chocolate are on a whole new level of deliciousness.

The first time I heard about chocolate mint (the plant) was in the grocery store. I’m not going to lie, I was eavesdropping on a conversation between two ladies in the checkout line. Who could blame me?

One started talking about her garden, so I tuned in. The other interrupted, saying she’d harvested her chocolate mint the other day and she gushed, none too quietly, “It smells soooo good!”

I found my own plant at a nursery not long after that, and I was thrilled to find it really did smell like the inside of a Nestle After Eight wrapper! Ever since then, this variety has been a staple in my kitchen herb garden.

People are divided on whether it actually smells like chocolate. Some say it’s all in the mind, and some say it really does have an essence of the rich sweet we so adore.

There’s only one way to form an opinion on whether it’s got that hint of chocolate or not… learn how to grow it below, and then find plant of your own!

Cultivation and History

As its Latin name Mentha × piperita f. citrata ‘Chocolate’ suggests, this plant is a cultivar of peppermint, which was selected from a cross between watermint, M. aquatica, and M. spicata, or spearmint.

The result was a sterile hybrid we all know and love: M. piperita!

The form citrata, also known as orange mint, was selected for further development. ‘Chocolate’ was one of the resulting cultivars.

Its cool peppermint scent, layered with that warm, salivation-inducing, sweet undertone won over the breeders and gardeners.

This cultivar has a dark look compared to the bright leaves of peppermint. It grows deep green leaves with purple undersides and dark stems, and is hardy in Zones 3-9.

The small lavender flowers attract all sorts of bees and butterflies, and the occasional appreciative human.

Propagation

As a sterile hybrid, peppermint and its cultivars cannot be propagated by seed.

Good to know, and I say this from experience because in the past I’ve purchased my fair share of “peppermint” seeds only to be disappointed with the smell and taste of the resulting plant.

Luckily, these plants are easily propagated by cuttings, runners, layering, or plant division.

For detailed instructions on each of these methods, check out our article on how to grow and care for peppermint.

How to Grow

Chocolate mint is a fast growing, easy plant to have in the garden. Like all plants though, it has its preferences.

It grows best with at least five to six hours of sun a day, preferably up to 14 if it’s available. More sun results in the best taste and color.

But this plant isn’t fond of excessive heat, so some shade during the day in the summer can be beneficial.

In general, Mentha plants prefer moist soil and will tolerate an acidic to alkaline pH. Enrich sandy or chalky soil with compost to provide a fertile home for your plants.

Although they generally don’t need much fertilizer, you can add a layer of compost around the plant annually.

Chocolate mint is low maintenance, except in the water department. These are thirsty plants, and will wilt if the soil dries out.

I learned how thirsty one of mine was the hard way, before I managed to transplant it in the garden.

On a hot sunny day, it wilted in my windowsill, but luckily a good soaking brought it back within a couple hours!

Lesson learned: if you are growing this moisture-loving plant, keep an eye on the soil moisture level and water regularly.

Check the soil moisture by pressing your finger into the soil surface. If the soil is cool and your finger comes up moist, watering is unnecessary. But if there is no moisture on your finger, water thoroughly.

Soggy soil is not ideal for any plant, but mint will tolerate short-term wetness. If you are growing yours in a container, make sure it has drainage holes.

You can grow it in containers or in the garden, but remember – it will spread and take over if left to its own devices.

This plant has two growth phases: the first is in the spring when the plant grows upright stems that will produce flowers. The second is post-flowering, when it starts spreading horizontally via runners and rhizome offshoots.

If you want your chocolate mint to grow in your herb garden without taking over, try sinking a bottomless bucket into the ground and place your transplant inside to contain it.

Learn more about how to grow mint in our guide.

Managing Pests and Disease

Herbivores don’t care for mint, and although this plant doesn’t have many serious pests for you to worry about, it can serve as host to some hungry insects and diseases.

As it is a cultivar of peppermint, the insects and diseases that affect chocolate mint are very similar to those of peppermint.

Be sure to check out the section in our peppermint article for in-depth information on each of the most common insects and diseases, whether caterpillars, spider mites, mint rust, or powdery mildew.

Harvesting

Begin harvesting individual leaves, stems, or bundles of stems when the plant is four to five inches tall.

How much you can safely harvest at one time depends on the size of the plant. Never harvest more than two thirds of the plant at once.

Cutting back the stems in bunches will help keep the plant under control, and encourage bushier growth.

The minty flavor is at its peak just before blooming and early in the morning, but it will maintain its distinctive smell and taste throughout the growing season.

Preserving

Leaves are great used fresh, but I’ve found they will retain most of their scent and flavor after they’ve been dried, infused, or frozen for later use too!

Fresh cut sections may be stored in the fridge for about four days.

You can dry bundles that you’ve harvested by hanging them upside down in a dry, warm place away from direct sunlight.

Freeze the leaves by laying them out on a cookie sheet, popping it in the freezer until the leaves are crisp and frozen, putting them in sealed bags, and keeping the bags in the freezer.

Or you can freeze them in ice cubes to add to drinks later.

Preserve the essence of the flavor by soaking the leaves in oil, whether almond, coconut, or olive, to infuse with the minty, chocolatey smell.

Crush fresh or dried leaves and pack into a jar. Fill the jar with oil and set in a warm place such as in a sunny windowsill for at least five days.

Strain the leaves and use this in recipes or even as a massage oil.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

The versatility of this plant, and mint in general, is amazing.

Use it to make a refreshing hot or cold tea. Add a few crushed dried leaves to your coffee grinds before percolating to add an extra layer of flavor to your brew.

In fact, chocolate mint can be used in a variety of hot and cold drinks. Jazz up a hot chocolate with fresh sprigs or dried crushed flakes. Add it to cocktails as a muddled herb or garnish.

Add to milkshakes and ice cream, and use as a garnish and added flavor note on desserts like brownies, cakes, pudding, and more.

If you’re looking for more healthy ways to enjoy your new herb, you can add it to a variety of salads, including fruit salads.

Think about using it in savory dishes too, such as lamb or fish.

And since it’s such a fragrant herb, why not add it to potpourri, or use the plant as a natural pesticide against mice, ants, mosquitoes, and more!

To find a variety of ideas for using mint that will work for this variety as well, check out these recipes from our sister site, Foodal.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial herb	Maintenance:	Low to moderate
Native to:	Cultivated hybrid	Soil Type:	Clay, loam
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-9	Soil pH:	6.1-7.8
Season:	Spring-fall	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Exposure:	Full sun to partial shade	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies, and other pollinators
Spacing:	18-24 inches	Companion Planting:	Broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, eggplant, lettuce, squash, other herbs
Planting Depth:	Same as root ball	Avoid Planting With:	Potatoes
Height:	2 feet	Family:	Lamiaceae
Spread:	2 feet	Genus:	Mentha
Water Needs:	High	Species:	x piperita f citrata
Tolerance:	Wet soil	Cultivar:	‘Chocolate’
Common Pests:	Alfalfa loopers, armyworms, cutworms, cabbage loopers, flea beetles, nematodes, spider mites	Common Diseases:	Mint rust, powdery mildew, verticillium wilt

Succulent leaves falling off your indoor or outdoor succulent is a sure sign that your plant is stressed out. Consider this your plant’s main method of communication that it’s time to switch things up. Here are eight reasons why your succulent is losing leaves—and how to fix it.

While succulents are advertised as easy to care for and low-maintenance plants, they differ greatly from tropical houseplants or garden plants. So even an experienced gardener can have difficulties growing and caring for them!

One of the main issues people run into is the leaves of succulents falling off their plants. While this is typical for older leaves, especially closer to the bottom and outer edge, new leaves are falling off, or leaves falling off in mass means it’s time to put your detective hat on.

I’ve listed all the primary checks to determine the exact cause of leaves falling off a succulent and how to change it. Don’t worry; we’ll get to the bottom of it!

This post will cover…

Common Reasons for Succulent Leaves Falling Off

A wide range of plants are considered succulents. Mostly, they have fleshy leaves, a drought tolerance, and enjoy bright light. But this can vary based on type!

So when succulent leaves fall off, the reason could also vary. But one thing is certain…your succulent is trying to tell you something is wrong.

The reason will be one of these eight reasons, so let’s dive in.

Check 1: Overwatering

For most indoor succulents, overwatering is a big culprit when it comes to succulent leaves falling off. We’re so used to caring for tropical houseplants inside, and they require much more water than succulents do.

Do your leaves look big and plump? Is your soil often moist? It’s best to water your succulents thoroughly until the soil is damp. Then, let the soil dry out before you water it again. Test it with your finger before watering.

In the winter, tender succulents only need to be watered every 1 to 2 months since they’re in dormancy.

If you’re growing succulents outdoors, ensure you haven’t planted the succulents in overly moist soil. Follow the same watering instructions as above for succulents in containers.

Check 2: Underwatering

On the opposite side, leaves falling off a succulent could indicate underwatering too. There’s a big difference between dry soil and soil drying out. If the soil has hardened and shrunk from the sides of the pot, you’re waiting too long to water your succulent.

If your leaves look saggy, wrinkly, or shriveled before they fall, this could be an indicator of underwatering.

Check 3: Sunlight

For the most part, succulents like lots of bright light. If you notice that your succulent has become leggy, then it’s not getting enough sunlight. Leggy means it’s getting tall, reaching towards the sun, and the leaves are more spread out on the stem.

Leaf drop is common for succulents in winter. Even though they’re dormant, they still need lots of sun in the winter, and it’s hard to get enough sun when there is significantly less daylight. Try moving the succulent to a sunnier spot.

Check 4: Roots

Another important thing to check if your succulent leaves are falling off is the root system. Gently lift the plant from the pot to quickly check the roots.

The first thing to look for is if the plant is overgrown. If plenty of visible roots have taken on the container’s shape, it may be time to repot the succulent into a bigger container or propagate it.

The other thing you want to check for is root rot. If the soil is super moist and the roots have gone mushy or have an odour, your plant is being overwatered, and you will need to clean up the roots. This is why we always need pots with drainage holes!

Check 5: Pests or Diseases

For the most part, pests and diseases probably aren’t why leaves fall off your succulent. But it’s pretty easy to check for.

Get up close and personal and look for any signs of pests such as mealy bugs, whiteflies, spider mites, or scale.

Check 6: Shock

Is there something new going on for your succulent? Oftentimes, if we move, repot, or transport a plant, they will get a little fussy about it.

If your plant is brand new from the store, the shock of experiencing some outdoor temperatures to bring it inside your house may shock it. Likewise, if you’re overwintering outdoor succulents indoors, the change in temperature and location may shock it.

In this case, there’s not much you can do about it. Your plant will adapt to its new surroundings, and leaf loss is only temporary.

Check 7: Physical Damage

Succulents in busy areas with high traffic may accidentally get brushed against. If it happens frequently, this can result in leaf loss that may feel random.

For instance, a bear’s paw succulent is notoriously easy to damage accidentally. A simple bump or brush of the leaves while walking by, watering, or repotting can cause it to break free from the stem.

Check 8: Insufficient Nutrients

If the leaves turn a shade of yellow or pale first, they may not get enough nutrients from the soil. This shouldn’t be a problem for outdoor succulents planted in the ground. Succulents in containers, meanwhile, should be fertilized once at the beginning of the spring.

Likewise, indoor succulents should be fertilized at the start of spring. You can also fertilize once a month during the growing season, but only if they get lots of sunlight; otherwise, they might grow too fast and get leggy. Start fertilizing in spring when growth begins and stop fertilizing in fall when the plants enter their dormant phase.

Frequently Asked Questions About Succulent Leaves Falling Off

More Posts About Succulents

Aloe Vera (AL-oh VER-uh) is a succulent plant native to the drylands of northern Africa. It can also be found in dry areas around Asia, southern Europe, and the Americas. 

Aloe Vera is a perennial plant that belongs to the Asphodelaceae (Liliaceae) family. The botanical name of Aloe vera is Aloe barbadensis. It also goes with several other Common names include:

• Burn Plant
• Medicine Plant
• Lily of the Desert
• Elephant’s Gall
• Laxative plant
• Aloin
• Barbaloin

The name “Aloe vera” is a testament to the widespread popularity of this hardy, useful plant. “Aloe” comes from an Arabic word (alloeh) which means “shining bitter substance.” “Vera” is a Latin word that means “true.”

Aloe Vera Plant Quick Growing Guide:

• Family: Asphodelaceae, Liliaceae, or Xanthorrhoeaceae
• Botanical Name: Aloe barbadensis miller
• Origin: Africa, Madagascar, India, the Middle East
• Common Names: Flower of the desert, Mediterranean aloe, Unguentine cactus, Lily of the desert, Elephant’s gall, Miracle plant, Barbados aloe, Coastal aloe, Common aloe, Medicinal aloe, Star cactus, Indian aloe, True aloe, Aloe vera, Burn plant, Aloe
• Uses: In cool areas, aloe is kept as a houseplant. In the desert and tropical settings, it grows as a garden or outdoor container plant.
• Height: Varies considerably (7″ or 8″ inches to 4′ to 6′ feet) depending upon the variety. Most houseplants are under a foot high.
• USDA Hardiness Zones: 8-10
• Flowers: Occasional red, orange, or yellow bell-shaped flowers.
• Foliage: Thick, gel-filled, variegated leaves or spears.

Aloe Vera Plant Care

Aloe Vera is a resilient plant that can thrive in dry soil without much care. 

Can you keep aloe plants indoors or outdoors? 

Aloes can be kept indoors or outdoors, depending on the growing zone, and light conditions. Inside or outside it requires minimal attention. 

But still, there are some points that you need to understand to keep your Aloe Vera plant healthy and happy.

Growing aloe vera is easy, and they thrive on neglect. The make excellent home or office plants.

Besides providing pretty decoration, aloe leaves contain a clear gel that’s a popular home remedy.

Size and Growth

The size to which your Aloe Vera plant will grow depends on the size of the pot. The bigger the pot is, the more room there is for the roots to grow, and consequently, for the leaves too. Being indoors or out doesn’t affect the size of the plant.

NOTE: Aloe grows outdoors year-round in USDA Hardiness Zone 10 or higher.

Flowering and Fragrance

Aloe Vera needs bright, indirect sunlight to flower. When placed indoors, keep the plant near a window. Make sure to rotate the plant every few days so that all sides get an equal amount of light. 

If planted outside, there is no need to rotate the plant as the light will be distributed evenly.

The Aloe Vera flowers are one to three inches tall and shoot from the center of the plant. They can be either red, orange, or yellow., and they have no distinctive smell.

Light and Temperature

Aloe Light Requirements: Aloe Vera needs bright sunlight to grow and thrive. But when it’s placed in intense, direct sun for a long time each day, the green leaves may show signs of sunburn. The leaves will droop in poor or low lighting conditions. 

Aloe Vera doesn’t tolerate temperatures lower than 50F. 

When should aloe plants be brought indoors? 

If your Aloe is growing outdoors, it’s a good idea to bring it inside on cold nights, and during the winter or if the outdoor temperature drops below 50°F (10°C).

Where should I put my aloe plant in my house?

Aloe vera indoors does best when they receive lots of bright, indirect light for at least six hours a day. An ideal spot is a south facing window.  In low light locations adding artificial light is a good option. 

Watering Schedule and Feeding

Aloe Vera doesn’t need frequent watering. Only water the plant when the top inch of the cacti soil is completely dry. Water the plant richly and let the pot fully drain and then promptly empty any excess water that has drained into the pot’s drip tray.

Fertilize the plant once at the beginning of the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy, water-based fertilizer at half-strength. 

Avoid overwatering to keep these conditions from developing or worsening.

Related: More on Overwatering Your Aloe

How often do you water an aloe plant indoors?

Aloes growing indoors should be watered sparingly. Watering about every two to three weeks is a good schedule. But, make sure the soil is allowed to dry out between waterings.

How often should I water my aloe plant? A: Aloe plants should be watered sparingly, about every two to three weeks, and the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings.

Soil and Transplanting

The best soil to plant Aloe Vera is a cactus or succulent potting mix. If you can’t find it, use regular potting soil and mix it with coarse sand, lava rock or perlite. 

Aloe Vera should be re-potted as required to refresh the soil and to give it some space to grow. When transplanting into a bigger pot, (they look great in terra cotta pots) ensure it’s no larger than 2 sizes up.

Grooming and Maintenance

Aloe Vera is a low-maintenance plant. The only thing you need to do is to remove the dead leaves if you find any. Leaves might die due to scorching by sunlight that’s too intense, or by not getting enough sunlight. Try to balance the exposure to reduce damage.

 If you like, you can move your potted plant outdoors for the summer, but don’t put it in direct sunlight right away.

In other areas, aloe grows best indoors as a houseplant, with some gardeners moving it outdoors for summer.

Unfortunately, a bloom is rarely achievable with aloes that are kept as houseplants, since the plant requires nearly ideal conditions to produce flowers: lots of light, sufficient water, and the right temperature range.

Even if you live somewhere colder than that, you can move your potted aloe vera to a sunny spot outside during the summer months, as long as the container has drainage holes.

Related: Is Aloe Toxic To Cats?

Informative Aloe Video From Gardening Australia

How To Propagate Aloe Vera

The most common method is propagation from suckers. Suckers are plantlets, or baby plants (called pups), that are produced by the mother plant. They can be taken out and planted in a separate pot to allow them to grow.

To separate a pup from the mother, you need to uproot the plant and look for the point of connection between the pup’s roots and the mother’s. Cut the connection with a sharp knife or scissors. 

This will decrease the chance of inducing rot and give the plant time to put out new roots.

Pro TIP: Dip the end of the plantlet in a rooting hormone before planting.

Growing Aloes From Seed

Aloe: Common Problems, Diseases and Pests Infestation

There are a few diseases and pests that can afflict Aloe Vera.

Bacterial Soft Rot 

The Pectobacterium chrysanthemi disease is caused by a bacterial infection. The bacteria favor hot and wet weather. The infected plant has its leaves turning black and swelling with gases. Young leaves droop and wither. There is no cure for soft rot, but you can protect the plant by keeping it dry.

These plants are subject to root rot, especially when growing indoors.

Anthracnose Disease 

Colletotrichum gloeosporioides favors wet and warm conditions. It appears as reddish-brown circles on the leaves. The circles widen and join together. To get rid of this fungus, you need to move the plant to a dry area and use a suitable fungicide.

Basal Stem Rot

This fungal infection takes place in damp, cold conditions. It can be detected as the base of the plant turns black and starts to rot. This disease is detrimental and has no cure. The best thing you can do is to prevent it from taking place by allowing the soil to drain well.

Aloe Vera Aphid

This insect feeds off the leaves. They are usually found concentrated near the bottom. Large numbers of aphids can slow the growth of the plant. Apply pesticides to kill them.

However, it can sometimes be susceptible to mealybug in between the leaf rosettes. Also, keep on the lookout for Aloe mites that can distort leaves.

Aloe FAQs

Does Aloe vera need direct sunlight? 

They do not need direct sunlight, but they thrive in it. Aloe vera plants need bright, indirect light for about six hours per day. 

Can aloe vera plants survive without sunlight? 

No, aloes cannot survive without “light”, but, they can grow well with artificial grow lights.

How do you save an aloe plant from dying?

First, to save an aloe, you need to identify the problem. Is the plant suffering from overwatering or underwatering? If so, adjust the care. You can also trim off any dead or damaged leaves and repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil.

How To Harvest, Store & Use Aloe Vera Gel?

When it comes to herbal remedies, everyone has heard of aloe vera gel and juice. These soothing substances are often used to treat burns, bruises, abrasions, and minor skin irritations.

The juice can also be used to soothe the tummy, relieve constipation, style and condition your hair, and more.

Harvesting and using aloe vera gel is simple, in itself. Just cut off a mature leaf with a sharp knife and split it lengthwise.

You can:

• Squeeze the gel directly from the leaf onto your minor burn, sore spot, or skin irritation.
• Make an aloe compress by splitting the spear lengthwise, opening it up, and laying it on the affected area.
• Keep in mind that aloe gel should not be depended upon to treat large or deep burns, severe wounds, or severe skin conditions. [source]

To harvest a larger amount of juice to keep on hand ready for use. Do the following:

• Harvest the number of aloe leaves you want.
• Slit the leaves
• Scrape the gel out with a spoon and put it directly into a clean, glass container.
• The gel will keep fresh in the refrigerator for about a week.

To store aloe gel for longer periods of time, put the gel into ice cube trays and freeze it. Once the cubes are frozen, move them into zip-lock plastic bags or sealable freezer containers to protect them from accidental contact contamination.

An aloe vera ice cube is incredibly soothing to a minor bruise, sunburn, or kitchen burn. You can also thaw these cubes out a few at a time to use as a hair conditioner.

Use the gel undiluted as a rinse-out conditioner. Dilute it 50/50 with filtered water for a leave-in conditioner. Add a few drops of light natural oil such as jojoba oil for more conditioning power. Essential oils add a pleasant scent.

Aloe Vera Uses

Aloe Vera is not called the medicine plant in vain. It has many healing and therapeutic uses.

• Can be used to ease sunburns and minor burns. Applying it directly to the injured area lessens redness and temperature.
• The plant has been in use as a natural remedy for a couple of centuries before the time of Christ.    
• Applied in moderation, it can act as a skin moisturizer. Excessive use can cause irritation of the skin.
• Rubbing aloe vera on the scalp can help reduce dandruff problems.    
• It makes an excellent houseplant for decorating a  bathroom in every state in the union.
• You can harvest aloe vera gel from your plant to use it on minor burns and cuts, and even to make your own soaps, lotions, and other skincare products if you want.  

Cherry Ong is taking us along to a see early spring bloomers at VanDusen Botanical Garden in Vancouver, British Columbia, on a perfectly sunny spring day.

Now that is a happy clump of crocus. I think it might be Crocus ancyrensis ‘Golden Bunch’ (Zones 4–8), but I’m not sure.

Big drifts of crocuses, mostly Crocus tommasinianus (Zones 4–8) it looks like, are taking over as snowdrops (Galanthus, Zones 3–8) finish up.

Sweeps of snowdrops are still in bloom along the Rhododendron Garden Path.

Crocus tommasinianus ‘Ruby Giant’ (Zones 4–8) is known for its vigor and relative squirrel resistance. It has extra-large, extra-showy flowers and blooms with abandon.

Calluna vulgaris ‘Zoe’ (Zones 4–8) is putting on a fiery show in the Heather Garden. That intense red color is from the foliage, not the flowers. A yellow-green in the summer, it blushes this red color in the winter months.

Stewartia monodelpha (Zones 6–8) has incredible bark. Cherry says that she has not forgotten this tree since her first visit and always looks for it in the garden.

More gorgeous crocuses spreading and showing off.

The mossy setting shows off these crocuses beautifully, and it won’t need to be mowed like a lawn does. This will allow the crocus foliage to mature naturally and store up energy for next year’s bloom.

Cherry says she came specifically to see these bowls of floating hellebore (Helleborus hybrids, Zones 4 – 9) blooms because she loves hellebores so much!

Because hellebore blooms hang down, displaying them this way allows you to really appreciate all their beauty and diversity.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

As if gardening in the shade weren’t challenging enough, add the element of dryness to the mix and you’ll face a gardener’s ultimate design challenge. If you have one of these areas in your yard (and chances are, you do), don’t just throw in the towel yet. It is possible to grow thriving plants there. Read on to learn some strategies.

What does “dry shade” mean?

Technically, dry shade is a spot in your garden that receives only a few hours of light, dappled light, or no direct sunlight at all. Plus, the soil stays dry because either rain is rare or thirsty roots from established trees enthusiastically compete for water. Normally you think of a shady area as soggy and boggy, but in the case of dry shade, it’s the exact opposite.

Where would I find dry shade in my garden?

More times than not, dry shade occurs on covered patios and balconies, under dense large tree canopies, and close to house foundations where eaves protrude.  Dry shade also occurs in drought afflicted areas. Look for dimly lit and barren spaces—and you probably have dry shade.

What are the challenges of dry shade?

Not surprisingly, lack of sunlight and adequate water. You can’t increase light, unless you trim back trees, but you can bring drip irrigation to these areas to pamper smaller plants a bit. In the case of plants under trees, though, remember that you’ll also end up watering the tree, which will encourage the tree roots to grow and overtake smaller plant roots. Consider watering your those plants faithfully for the first season, then taper off.

What plants tolerate dry shade?

Of course you always have to consider your climate and microclimate before adding any plant to your garden, meaning determining how hot and cold your garden gets and what type of light exposure it has, and then researching to see whether your proposed plant can survive and thrive in your garden. It’s also helpful if you look for plants that have these three adaptations: 1) tolerates root competition; 2) tolerates low light; 3) tolerates dry soil. So with that said, here are some of my favorite dry shade plants:

Hellebore, Sarcococca, Cast Iron plant, Ajuga, Daphne, Mahonia,  Pachysandra, Clivia, Cyrtomium falcatum, Heuchera maxima, Iris douglasiana ‘Canyon Snow’, Oxalis oregana, Vaccinium ovatum, Sedum palmeri, Agave attenuata, Sedum morganianum, Sanseveria trifasciata, Aeonium haworthii ‘Kiwi’ , Beaucarnea recurvata, Lomandra ‘Breeze’

Any other dry shade planting tips?

For the health of California oak trees who dislike added irrigation, I never recommend planting directly under these sentient branched beings. Also, for established trees, I recommend planting no closer than 2 feet from the trunk/base of the tree and don’t prep the entire area, only dig individual holes to reduce damaging surface roots.

See also:

You need to login or register to view and manage your bookmarks.

Some compare the scent to grape Kool-Aid, soda, or gum, but the fragrance is deeper, richer, and more floral than the artificial aroma of processed food.

Read on to learn more!

What Is Texas Mountain Laurel?

Texas mountain laurel’s glossy, dark green leaves are evergreen and leathery. The large clusters – as long as six inches – of showy flowers appear in early spring, and sadly, bloom for just a few weeks before withering and taking their scent away.

Though these slow-growing plants can be kept pruned to a shrub size, most often they are allowed to mature into small treelike forms 10 feet wide and 15 feet high, multi- or single-trunked.

Older specimens in their natural habitat can reach 30 to 50 feet tall at maturity.

But the breathtaking bouquet is just one of the charms of this Texas native, which is hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 7b.

This plant has several common-name aliases, including coral bean, hot bean, mescal bean, mescal bean sophora, frigolito, frijollito, frijolillo, coral bean, big-drunk bean, and colorin.

Some of these are reflective of the plant’s native territory, which in addition to central, southern, and western Texas, also includes New Mexico and northern Mexico.

But, Texas being Texas, we had to stamp it with our own name, of course.

Previously known interchangeably as Sophora secundiflora and Calia secundiflora, recent phylogenetic studies have led to the reclassification of certain members of the Sophora genus into Dermatophyllum – a taxonomic synonym for Calia.

You will still see Texas mountain laurel referred to as S. secundiflora or C. secundiflora in some places.

Lovely as they are, the flowers of Texas mountain laurel are toxic to humans and animals, as are the plant’s seed pods and leaves. The seeds – called mescal beans – are a pretty orange-red color and are sometimes used as necklace beads.

Cultivation and History

A quick note: those of us here in Texas understand there’s another plant that calls itself “mountain laurel.” Nevertheless, our laurel is unrelated to Kalmia latifolia, a member of the heather family, Ericaceae, whereas ours is in the pea family, Fabaceae.

Toxic mescal beans were used ritually by indigenous peoples of the Central and Southern plains tribes for their psychoactive properties. Evidence of their use can be found in numerous archaeological sites in Texas and Mexico, and shows that these cultures also used the colorful seeds decoratively.

The mescal beans contain a number of poisonous quinolizidine alkaloids, including cystine, a narcotic alkaloid with a similar molecular structure to that of nicotine.

However, in spite of the name, they do not contain the hallucinogenic alkaloid mescaline, found in the peyote cactus. Nor should they be confused with the alcoholic beverage mezcal, which is made from the agave plant.

Propagation

These plants grow slowly, so if you’re looking for an immediate statement in the landscape, you might consider purchasing a well-established specimen in a large container from a local nursery.

Texas mountain laurel does not propagate well from cuttings.

However, if you’re patient, you can grow a Texas mountain laurel from seed.

From Seed

Seeds that fall from the plant can take years to germinate, as they have extremely hard shells. But a few tricks may provide faster results, if you’d like to grow some seedlings for transplant into the garden.

If you’re collecting seeds, pick the pods when they’re still mostly green but just starting to turn gray. The seeds will be pale pink and their shells will be relatively soft.

Sow these in gallon-sized containers with holes in the bottom filled with well-draining potting mix. Water often.

Alternatively, you can direct sow in the garden. Bury the seed about half an inch deep.

And be patient.

If someone hands you some hard, older pods, soak them in water to make it easier to break them apart and get at the seeds. With both donated and purchased seeds, chances are they’re more mature. You’ll have to scarify them before planting, as they have extremely hard shells.

As you would with morning glories, scratch them up with a knife, for example, or use sandpaper.

You can try soaking the seeds in warm water for two to three days, changing the water regularly to keep it tepid. This approach appears to work best if you first make a small cut in the tough outer shell.

However you plant your seeds, water them daily for the first couple of months, then about once a week for another year.

From Seedlings or Transplants

When transplanting into the ground, mix some extra calcium into the soil at the planting site to help plants get established.

Dig a hole slightly bigger than the root ball, then carefully place the root ball into the hole, and backfill with planting site soil.

Mature Texas mountain laurels have a deep root system, and they do not transplant well once established.

How to Grow

Texas mountain laurel prefers alkaline, well-drained rocky soils, including those that contain limestone. They’ll do well in clay, loam, and sand, and will tolerate being planted in or near turf.

Choose a planting site in an area that gets full sun. D. secundiflorum will also tolerate light shade for part of the day.

Once established, these drought-tolerant shrubs require little to no irrigation.

They also do perfectly well with no fertilization, but in areas with very poor soil you can add a small amount of a balanced fertilizer such as NPK 10-10-10 in springtime.

Pruning

There is no actual need to prune Texas mountain laurel. But if you want to change its form, say, into more of a traditional tree shape, or into a more compact bush, you can do so.

Keep in mind that the blossoms only appear on year-old wood. So while you might be tempted to prune during winter dormancy, this might result in less abundant blooms.

An alternative pruning time is in the summer, after it has finished flowering. When the brutal heat strikes, like many of us, these plants will go dormant.

Prune no more than one-third of the plant at a time. First prune out any deadwood. Then cut out thin, spindly branches. There’s no need to use pruning paint.

To encourage height, prune out lower branches and leave just one, two, or three trunks. For a more shrub-like appearance, trim the upper branches.

Where to Buy

If you’re looking for live plants, you can often find them in garden centers and plant nurseries in areas where they typically thrive. Buying seeds online can be a bit hit or miss, as they may not always be viable.

Managing Pests and Disease

Let’s start with the good news. Deer leave this one alone, so nothing to worry about there.

The bad news is that this plant is plagued by Uresiphita reversalis, aka genista caterpillar or sephora worm.

This yellow-bodied immature moth can strip the leaves off a Texas mountain laurel in no time flat, though the foliage almost always grows back and the plant suffers no permanent damage.

The caterpillars form loose webbing on the plants they’re decimating.

Control these one-inch-long snackers with Bacillus thuringiensis.

Best Uses

Texas mountain laurel makes a lovely specimen tree or shrub, which is primarily how I see them grown in Austin.

You can also create a tall screen with these, by planting several in a row and letting them bush out.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Shrub	Flower / Foliage Color:	Purple; dark green
Native to:	Texas, New Mexico, Mexico	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	7b-11	Tolerance:	Rocky soil, drought
Bloom Time / Season:	Late winter, early spring	Soil Type:	Poor to average
Exposure:	Full sun to partial shade	Soil pH:	Above 7.2 (alkaline)
Spacing:	10 feet	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Seeds: 1/2 inch; transplant: same depth as root ball	Water Needs:	Minimal
Height:	15 feet	Uses:	Specimin or screen
Spread:	10 feet	Family:	Fabaceae
Growth Rate:	Slow	Genus:	Dermatophyllum
Attracts:	Butterflies, bees	Species:	secundiflorum
Common Pests:	Genista caterpillar (also known as sephora worm)	Common Disease:	Root and crown rot

Of course, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t a few things you should know, but this article will give you all the details (and then some!).

Here’s what I’ll cover:

A Bit About Borage

Borage, Borago officinalis, is an annual herb in the forget-me-not, or Boraginaceae family that has naturalized across most of the United States.

Native to the Mediterranean region, it has made a name for itself far and wide as a tasty herb with edible flowers that pollinators love.

The flowers and leaves are used in a variety of herbal remedies, and the oil extracted from the seeds is high in gamma linolenic acid, which may help to reduce inflammation and alleviate symptoms of asthma.

It’s not only valuable in the kitchen and the medicine cabinet, but it can also be used in the garden as a cover crop to suppress weeds, help retain water, and enrich the soil.

Borage grows just about anywhere, and that’s only a slight exaggeration. It thrives in full sun to part shade locations, in containers, or spreading out in a meadow.

It’s suitable for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 2-11 and isn’t too demanding when it comes to moisture or soil – which is why it pops up in sandy and clay soil alike. So long as it doesn’t have wet feet, borage will be happy to do its thing.

The plant features beautiful, bright blue flowers that have a distinct star shape. There’s also a cultivar available with stunning white flowers.

The stems are covered in fuzz and have a deep red color when they’re young. Plants grow to a mature height of about two feet.

Preparation

Before you sprinkle your seeds into the soil, you need to do some prep work.

It’s easiest to sow borage seeds directly into the garden – in a full sun or part shade location – but you can start them indoors if you want.

While borage isn’t too fussy, it does require well-draining soil. You may need to work in some well-rotted manure, compost, peat moss, or sand into the soil to improve drainage.

You can also use some well-rotted compost worked into the top 12 inches of the soil to give your borage babies a boost of nutrients and to loosen up the soil.

If you’re planting in a container, make sure it’s at least 12 inches wide and deep, to accommodate the taproot, and that it has at least one drainage hole at the bottom.

If it has been used before, clean your pot with one part bleach to 10 parts water. Add a well-draining potting soil.

If you’re starting seeds indoors, use six-cell jumbo plug flats or three-inch pots. You need something large enough so that the long roots have room to spread out as they grow.

I like to use biodegradable pots with a seed starting mix so I don’t have to disturb the taproots.

But borage is resilient enough that you don’t have to worry too much as long as you take a little care when transplanting.

How to Sow Seeds

Borage seeds should be planted 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep, so you can either poke a hole and plop in a seed every 12 inches, or take the easy route and sprinkle seeds on the soil.

Then, cover with a layer of soil and gently press it down.

To start indoors, sow one or two seeds per seed cell, and cover with soil.

Water the soil carefully so as not to disturb the seeds. I use a water bottle if I’m sowing indoors. Outdoors, I use a fine-spray hose head.

Before they germinate, you want to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. The soil should feel slightly damp and stick together, but you shouldn’t see any water drip out if you give it a squeeze.

In about a week, sometimes up to two weeks, you should start seeing seedlings stick their heads out of the ground.

Initially, you’ll see a pair of shiny, wavy cotyledons appear. Later, you’ll start to see the true leaves emerge. These are hairy and have a matte, rough texture.

Once you see the true leaves, you can ease up on watering. That means you can allow the soil to dry out on the surface in between spritzes.

In my experience, borage seeds have a high germination rate, so you’ll likely need to thin them out.

If you started your plants indoors and planted more than one seed into the containers, thin them out to one plant per pot when they have at least one set of true leaves.

Just pluck out the weaker, thinner, or shorter plants and leave the strongest behind.

If you sprinkled seeds outdoors, you’ll need to thin plants to 12 inches apart when they’re about six to eight inches tall.

Transplanting

If you started your seeds indoors, you can transplant them into the garden when they are six to eight inches tall, and all danger of frost has passed.

Harden them off by moving your seedlings into a sunny spot outdoors, and gradually increase the amount of time they spend outside over the course of a week.

Then you can plant them in the ground.

Dig a hole in the prepared soil or container, and carefully place one plant every 12 inches.

If you are not using biodegradable pots, remove the seedling gently from its container, to avoid damage to the roots.

Tamp down the soil and water in well.

Daily Care

Borage won’t complain if you give it part shade, meaning it gets only three or so hours of sun a day, but it will grow faster and bloom more profusely in full sun.

I planted borage from seed in late April in a sunny spot and you can see how happy the plant was by mid-June.

At the same time, I planted some seeds in my “cocktail herbs” container garden.

It’s getting three hours of sun a day, and the plant is a little leggier and about a week behind blossom-wise than my full sun borage.

That said, the leaves of both taste delicious, so it all depends on your goals.

The plants need regular water, but you can let the soil dry out a little between irrigation. When the top two inches of the soil feel dry, it’s time to top things off.

By Guest Author Anna Parks

The birds we know and love are in trouble and need our help to survive. According to a recent study of 529 bird species conducted by an international team of scientists from seven research institutions, nearly 3 billion birds in the United States and Canada have vanished since 1970. That’s a loss of one-third of the birds in these two countries in just 50 years.

More than 90% are the birds we are used to seeing in our backyards. For example, we have lost nearly 25% of the Blue Jays, 50% of the Baltimore Orioles, 70% of the Red-winged Blackbirds, and 80% of the Song Sparrows.

These numbers are terrible, but we know from experience that we can bring back bird populations when we try. We’ve done it with waterfowl, raptors, and gamebirds in the last 50 years by using targeted conservation efforts and reducing and eliminating harmful pesticides.

Now, the songbirds need our help. The songbird population is declining because birds are losing the habitats they need to survive. This is a problem every gardener can help solve. Restoring native plants, providing food and access to fresh water sources, and creating nesting sites will create a bird-friendly habitat in your backyard and give birds a place to live, eat, rest, and nest.

How to Restore Native Plants

The exotic ornamental plants most nurseries sell nowadays are nice to look at, but they are creating a huge problem for the birds that rely on native plants for survival. Native plants, which are plants that occur naturally in a given region, provide cover and essential foods for many forms of wildlife, especially birds. Non-native plants, on the other hand, are introduced to a region and do not always provide the food and nesting sites that birds need.

A basic example of this can be seen in two popular landscape trees sold in North America. One of the main sources of food for many birds are caterpillars. The native oak supports as many as 500 species of caterpillars, whereas the non-native ginkgo supports only 5 species of caterpillars. Birds, such as chickadees that need about 6,000 caterpillars to feed a single brood of babies, can rely on the native oak for food far more than they can rely on the ginkgo.

Native plants are also beneficial to humans and the environment because they require less watering, fertilizer, and pesticides than non-native plants. If you’re interested in restoring native plants to your landscape, you can start by identifying the trees, shrubs, flowers, and grasses in your yard. Determine what is native and non-native to your area (see resources below). Then, consider replacing invasive non-native plants (which tend to take over the landscape) with native plants that attract native insects, support pollinators, and provide seeds and nuts that birds can eat.

The cooperative extension service in your state can help you identify native and non-native plants for your area. You can also find many resources online. For example, the National Wildlife Federation website offers a native plant finder, and the National Audubon Society offers an online native plant database (see below). Both can help you locate trees, shrubs, and flowers that benefit birds, bees, butterflies, and other wildlife.

How to Provide Food in Every Season For Birds

Most birds rely on natural food supplies, such as insects, larvae, worms, spiders, plant material (flowers, leaves, seeds), nuts, and fruit. But there are more than 100 species of North American birds that supplement their meals with foods obtained from bird feeders. This is especially true in the winter when natural food is often scarce or during spring and fall migration when birds need extra energy. Some birds also rely on feeders during the summer to meet the demands of hungry nestlings.

You can provide bird food in every season by planting native trees, grasses, shrubs, and flowers that support insects and produce edible seeds, nectar, and fruit. Trees and shrubs that produce autumn and winter berries are also helpful for Mockingbirds, Robins, Catbirds, Cardinals, Chickadees, Nuthatches, Woodpeckers, Blue Jays, and other birds who eat fruit.

To attract and assist the greatest variety of birds, you can supplement native plants with bird feeders. Feeder stations can mimic the level where birds normally eat. Low platform bird feeders work well for ground birds like mourning doves and sparrows. Hopper and tube bird feeders work well for shrub birds like cardinals and finches. Suet feeders hung high off the ground work well for tree birds like nuthatches, chickadees, woodpeckers, and some warblers.

When filling feeders, black-oil sunflower seed is a good choice because it appeals to a wide range of birds. Thistle seed is popular with finches. Safflower seed appeals to cardinals, finches, mourning doves, and chickadees. Millet and cracked corn are well-liked by many ground-feeding birds. Woodpeckers, nuthatches, and titmice love suet, fruit, and unsalted nuts.

How to Provide Fresh Water For Birds

Providing a dependable supply of fresh, clean water is one of the biggest things you can do to help birds. Birds need water to drink and bathe (dirty feathers make flight difficult). You can provide this with garden ponds, fountains, and birdbaths.

Pond areas should be shallow and have a gently sloping bank or well-placed rocks, branches, and other items that birds can use as perches or ladders to easily get in and out of the water. Fountains should have a lip or edge that birds can perch on.

Like ponds, birdbaths should also be shallow; one to three inches of water is more than enough, especially for small birds who can drown if the water is too deep. Water should also be changed and replenished every few days. The surface of the birdbath should also be cleaned regularly, particularly if green algae begin to form.

How to Create Nesting Sites

In the 1970s, concerned birdwatchers and citizen scientists worked together to create a trail of nesting boxes for Eastern Bluebirds, which were on the verge of extinction after 90 percent of the population was lost due to a lack of nesting cavities. The Eastern Bluebird population is now considered stable because of their efforts.

The same can be done for other songbirds. Trees, shrubs, dense foliage, and tall grasses provide nesting sites where birds can raise their young. If you don’t have space for these options, or if you would like to help the cavity-nesting birds (like Eastern Bluebirds, Tree Swallows, Purple Martins, etc.), you could install nest boxes in your backyard habitat.

Find out which birds are likely to nest in your area and what type of nest box they require. Then, research the best place to install a nest box and the best way to protect it from weather and potential predators.

Guest Author Bio: Anna Parks is an outdoor writer, photographer, gardener, and birder from Maryland. She is a member of the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Maryland Ornithological Society, New Jersey Audubon, Ducks Unlimited, and Nature Conservancy. She enjoys writing about birding, conservation, travel, gardening, and all things outdoors. You can read more about her on Anna Parks Outdoors.

Sources:
1.) Science (Referenced study published in the “Science” journal from the American Association for the
Advancement of Science):
2.) Cornell Lab of Ornithology (Bring Birds Back)
3.) Cornell Lab of Ornithology (News: 1 in 4 Birds Gone)
4.) NY Audubon (Bird Habitat Necessities)
5.) National Audubon Society (Why Native Plants Matter)
6.) National Wildlife Federation (Native Plant Finder)
7.) National Audubon Society (Native Plants Database)
8.) National Audubon Society (Audubon Guide to Bird Feeding):
9.) Fairfax County (Eastern Bluebird Conservation)
10.) Cornell Lab of Ornithology (NestWatch)

The point of vegetable gardening is usually to grow food.

One person may have his little “therapy garden” and another might have a few tomato plants just for fun, but usually people grow vegetable gardens in order to provide food for the table.

If you’re getting advice that is making it harder for you to grow food and making you question the success you’ve had, maybe it’s not great advice.

ramtharthegreat writes:

“There’s a gardening channel on here based in New Orleans, and she feels she knows enough about gardening to do paid evaluation/recommendations regarding viewers gardens. I should note, she does have very good information for her area. However, she was recommending that everyone, regardless of zone, just leave some potatoes when you harvest and you will never need to plant any. Several people pointed out that can work where the ground doesn’t freeze, but you’ll need a different approach in the north. Turns out, she had not only never gardened where the ground froze 3 ft deep for months at a time every year, but didn’t understand that places like that could be gardened at all. Point is, no plan works everywhere, and watch out for the ‘experts’.”

Yep.

This is why I don’t write a regional book called Idaho Survival Gardening, or perhaps a broader tome, such as The Good Guide to Cold Climate Gardening.

It’s because…

I also like to cut through unnecessarily complicated systems and dispose of what isn’t helpful.

In yesterday’s video, I share my problems with a “Swiss Army Knife” plant that does poorly in our area.

Comfrey is barely a butter knife here in hot and humid USDA zone 8b.

Forget it. I’ve got better plants to grow!

Yet I do indeed get some crazy people that refuse to understand my methods:

I hate it when people misuse apostrophes.

Jack commented before, leaving a string of insults. I responded graciously then, but now I’ve banned him.

When a person is willfully as obtuse as that, it’s not worth engaging. His vitriol seems mostly directed towards my refusing to recommend no-till gardening in all situations.

Look – if you don’t have enough mulch but you want to grow food don’t worry about it! Just plant an unmulched row garden and keep it weeded with a hoe. People have done it forever. Whether or not you think it’s ideal isn’t important. My ideal garden would probably be a food forest, with some permanent compost-rich deep mulched beds closer to the house. Or my Grocery Row Gardens. But I’ll also use single-row gardens to grow food.

Grow that food, people! Don’t get hung up. And please learn to use apostrophes correctly.

As Duncan comments:

“I am a classic “paralysis by analysis” kind of guy. Your videos and methods have eased my mind to stop finding the “best” way, and to embrace the practical way that fits with our family, life, and just how our property is. Thank you for putting so much work into sharing your knowledge and experience with the world.”

Thank you, Duncan.

I’m trying to use my mind and heart to help others and take care of my own family, despite not being an expert on everything.

I’m also addicted to growing food, so if something gets in the way of that I usually discard it. Grow what grows in your climate. Learn what works for you. Be joyful!

And remember:

Share this post!

Canning peas is an excellent way to enjoy them throughout the year, even when they’re not in season.

If you have a surplus of peas from the garden, canning them is one of the best ways to preserve them before they go bad.

It’s easy to do, and it’s great to have them on hand whenever you need them in your cooking. They also make for a quick and delicious side dish for any meal.

In this article, I’ll tell you everything you need to know about how to can fresh peas with simple step-by-step instructions.

Best Types Of Peas For Canning

The best types of peas for canning are English varieties, also known as green hull, garden, or shelling.

The fresher they are the better they will taste in flavor and texture. Look for ones that are about 3-4” long, unblemished, and firm for the best results.

Preparing Peas For Canning

Preparing your peas for canning is very straightforward. First simply rinse them off to remove any dirt or debris, and drain them in a colander.

Then remove them from the shells, discard the hulls, and put the peas back into the colander. Once you’re done shucking them rinse them again.

Make sure to wash and sterilize your jars as part of your preparation process too, and keep them hot until you’re ready to pack them.

Methods For Canning Peas

There are two main ways to can peas: either raw or hot packing them. Both options can yield slightly different results.

The method you choose will depend on how much time you have, and your own personal preference. Test out both options to find the perfect fit for you.

Hot Packing

Hot packing means that you flash-cook the peas in boiling water for about two minutes before adding them to the jars.

This method will generally preserve their color better and will also result in the best texture.

Raw Packing

Raw packing means you fill the jars with uncooked peas. This method is much faster since you don’t have to cook the peas before canning them.

However, they could end up being slightly mushier, and the color can leach out into the brine. Also keep in mind that the raw peas will float as you fill the jars with liquid.

Pressure Canning Peas

The only safe way to process your jars of peas is by using a pressure canner, because they are a low-acid vegetable.

This means that they need to be processed at a very high heat to kill any harmful bacteria that could be present. This cannot be achieved in a boiling water bath canner.

Tools & Equipment Needed

Below is a list of items you’ll need. Gather everything before you start to make the process easier. You can see my full list of tools and supplies here.

How To Store Canned Peas

Always be sure to store your canned peas in a dark, cool place, such as a pantry or cupboard.

Before storing them, check that each lid has a tight seal. If any of the lids didn’t seal after processing them, put those into the fridge and eat them up right away.

How Long Do Canned Peas Last?

If stored properly, canned peas will last for up to 12 months in your pantry. Make sure to label your jars so you know when they will expire.

Before consuming, check that the lid still has a tight seal. If any popped while in storage, discard them.

FAQs

Below, I’ve answered some of the most frequently asked questions I get about canning peas. If you can’t find yours here, add it to the comments section.

Do peas have to be pressure canned?

Yes, peas must be pressure canned. They have a low acidity and aren’t safe for processing in a boiling water bath.

Are canned green peas cooked?

Yes, canned peas are already cooked. However, they taste better if you heat them and add additional seasonings before consuming.

Which is better: frozen or canned green peas?

Whether frozen are better than canned green peas depends on how you will use them and your personal preference. Canned peas tend to be softer than frozen with slightly less flavor due to being processed in high heat.

Canning peas is easy and quick, and perfect for beginners to start with. It’s a great way to preserve your garden’s bounty, or stock up from the grocery store or farmer’s market, and enjoy them all year long.

Check out my Vertical Vegetables book and find out how to get more from your growing space. It will teach you all you need to know about designing and caring for your vertical garden, and also includes 23 beautiful projects that you can build yourself. Order your copy today.

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More Food Canning Posts

Share your tips for canning green beans in the comments section below.

Recipe & Instructions

Flowery and Fanciful

Most any mom would appreciate blooms on Mother’s Day, but gardeners have a special affinity for them.

And you don’t have to limit yourself to the standard bouquet! These ingenious floral-themed or evergreen gifts will suit her fancy with something a little different.

1. Baby Jade Three-Bonsai Tree Group

Is learning the art of bonsai on the family gardener’s bucket list? Or is she someone who loves greenery but is hard to buy for?

In either scenario, this group of bonsai baby jade trees could set just the right tone. It’s novel and intriguing, yet recommended for the bonsai beginner.

Baby Jade Bonsai

The jade, or Portulacaria afra, is also known as elephant bush.

You can find baby jade three-bonsai tree group available at Bonsai Boy.

2. Golden Balcony Begonia

This cascade of tropical color will live throughout the warm months and into the fall, a welcome sight on the patio or in the sunroom.

These double-bloom Begonia tuberhybrida plants will thrive and flower in containers or fertile, well-drained soil in a raised bed or border.

Another huge advantage: Deer and rabbits leave them alone.

‘Golden Balcony’ Begonia

If your mom is a devoted flower gardener, she might want to propagate the begonias by taking cuttings. We offer information on that process in our guide.

These rose-shaped begonias are hardy just in Zones 9 to 11, but you can dig the tubers out ahead of winter in colder zones. Store them somewhere cool (not cold) and dry, and plan to plant them again next spring.

Or, just enjoy them for the season and add them to the compost when they’re finished.

Find a set of five ‘Golden Balcony’ begonia tubers available at Home Depot.

3. Table Dancer Dahlias

Dahlia ‘Table Dancer’ is a cactus type that produces soft purple and white, ruffled flowers on plants that can grow to 36 inches tall.

They serve as a dreamy focal point for borders or walkways. And they’ll beautify containers, too, as long as the plants don’t get too dry.

What makes this purchase so nice for a May celebration is that dahlia tubers are planted in the spring for a summer display of color.

Once the soil temperature warms up to 55 to 60°F, these can go in the ground. And they’ll still bloom this summer, starting in July and continuing until the first frost.

‘Table Dancer’ Dahlia

They’re reliably hardy in Zones 8 to 11, or you can dig them up to overwinter indoors in colder zones.

If you’re a flower fan yourself, you might want to order extra so you and your parent can partake in a shared interest. Just sayin’…

You could create a new tradition, too, by making a note in your gardening journal to divide the dahlias each spring. This creates more to share, and also encourages plants to flower profusely.

‘Table Dancer’ dahlia tubers are available from Dutch Grown. Choose from packages of two, four, and eight tubers.

Learn more about how to grow dahlias in our guide.

4. Preserved Blue Poppy Wreath

This dry wreath preserves the wildflower vibe year-round. It’s comforting in those months when the growing things are all dry and brown, and beautiful when the heat of summer limits outdoor time, too.

It’s handcrafted in Washington state with wispy stems, bright larkspur, and textured poppy pods.

Preserved Garden Wreath

At 22 inches in diameter, the wreath can hold its own on the front door or over the mantle, and will last for at least two years indoors.

Check it out now on Terrain.

5. Sunflower Garden Lighted Landscape Panel

Stay on the sunny side… even in the dark!

Five battery-operated LED lights are connected by a single wire to create this yard art. The screen of four sunflower shapes, each with a light at its center, is visible 24/7.

It comes with a timer, so it casts soft light for six hours. Ground stakes are included and add stability.

Sunflower Garden Lighted Landscape Panel

This is a thoughtful gift for anyone who loves to grow sunflowers, or only wishes they could. It can also provide a practical solution for obscuring unsightly areas like the composter or a bald spot in the landscape.

The lighting requires two AA batteries, which are not included

The dimensions of the connected panels are 40 and a half inches wide by half an inch deep by 54 and a half inches tall.

You can find the five-stake panel set available at Plow and Hearth.

Go Big! (Going Home Optional)

Whether this holiday is always a big deal in your family or you’d just like to be extra lavish this year, remember that some of the best green thumb gift ideas are big and bold.

Can’t make it home this May? That may be an extra incentive to gift something substantial and memorable, to keep the family close in spirit.

If she’s the type to say, “Don’t make a big fuss over me!” and you believe she means it, well, you’re still in luck. There are several ideas for more modest gifts coming up here in a bit, so keep reading.

But for now, consider these grand gestures:

6. Ashland Cedar Pergola with Bar and Electric Capacity

You won’t even be able to pretend that this gift isn’t for the whole family, but mom will probably go along with the ruse that this is a present for her.

This 14-by-10-foot cedar pergola with concrete anchors has a built-in bar and 120-volt outlets. It will quickly become the hub for outdoor entertaining or creating a trendy outdoor kitchen.

Cedar Pergola with Bar and Electric Capacity

For the gardener, though, it’s also a place to plant grapevines or other pretty climbers. We’ve got more advice on growing flowering vines in this guide, if you need inspiration.

The base dimensions of this new gathering spot are 11 feet 9 inches by 8 feet, and the interior is 10 feet 9 inches by 6 feet 11 inches by 6 feet 10 inches.

In other words, there’s plenty of space to cook, serve, play, and relax with a cup of her favorite beverage.

Check current prices and availability at Home Depot.

7. Cedar Cold Frame for Seedlings

Help your mother get a jump start on the growing season with a cold frame that protects seedlings from late or early frost.

The spacious, two-window design also creates a warm spot to start tomato or cucumber transplants in areas with short growing seasons, or to protect early cole crops like beets, broccoli, or kale.

With a rot-resistant lumber base, this cold frame will last a long time and looks great doing it. The water-resistant, aluminum and polycarbonate panes also resist UV rays.

Cedar Cold Frame

It’s spacious enough for plenty of plants. It also has window height adjusters for different sizes and to assure air circulation.

Who knows? With this season extender on the premises, she might be able to grow early greens and peas in time for a big meal for next Mother’s Day…

The assembled dimensions are eight feet long by two feet wide by seven and a quarter inches high in the front, and 14 and three quarter inches high in the back.

Find more buying information and check current prices for the Cedar Cold Frame at Gardener’s Supply.

8. Longwood Concrete Outdoor Bench

Constructed from cast stone, this elegant, classic garden bench makes a delightful statement piece in the landscape.

Available in 14 different colors, this heavy-duty bench gives mom a place to sit and enjoy her favorite corner of the garden.

Longwood Cast Stone Garden Bench

The overall dimensions are 51.25 inches long by 19 inches deep by 21 inches high, and it weighs a whopping 418 pounds.

For more information about pricing and availability, check it out on Wayfair.

And if this has got you thinking about garden benches, we have a roundup of 11 of our favorites here.

Practical but Pleasing

If mom prefers frugal, no frills gifts, here you go. Each of these options is ever-so-functional, but also nifty.

9. Composite Cedar Trellis

Peas, pole beans, clematis, and all the other vines need a sturdy trellis, and mom should have one of the best. This version is made of a lattice-design BPA- and phthalate-free composite that’s easy to clean.

It comes with a 10-year warranty. The composite cedar trellis is 54 inches wide and 91 inches tall when assembled and installed.

Composite Cedar Trellis

For a bonus gift, think about spending a cheery afternoon setting this up together – assembly takes about two hours.

Check prices and availability now at Home Depot.

10. Cut Glass Plant Mister

Beautiful, functional, hardworking… remind you of someone you know?

This mister is both a luxury and a necessity for anyone who grows tropical houseplants or starts seeds indoors.

Cut Glass Plant Mister

This Terrain exclusive is elegant, made of cut glass with an attractive spray mechanism with a polished brass finish.

Imported, it’s six inches high and three and a half inches in diameter.

Find buying and pricing information at Terrain.

11. Desktop Plant Light

Let’s get growing! If mom aspires to grow microgreens, or lives where she doesn’t have a sunny windowsill for indoor starts and houseplants, this plant light will be greatly appreciated.

Desktop Plant Light

Providing an output of 1620 lumens, this light is suitable for use as a reading lamp as well.

You can find this useful desktop grow light available at Arbico Organics.

12. Indoor Composter with Bokashi

While others are gifting yellow roses or serving mom mimosas with breakfast in bed, your mother is going to receive a compost thingie? A present that involves rotting debris?

Certain parental figures will be delighted with this gift, honest!

If she’s dedicated to sustainable gardening and lush vegetable plants, mother might like this easy-to-use countertop composter better than, say, more candles.

It’s different from similar models because it’s intended to actually produce compost from vegetable scraps while inside the house. Most other models are mere holding bins for throwaways destined for an outdoor composter.

Indoor Composter with Bokashi

The kit includes a five-gallon bucket and gallon-size bag of All Seasons Bokashi, a microbial inoculant that jumpstarts the composting process. It also reduces odors, so there’s no stinky mess while you’re waiting for lettuce and coffee grounds to become fertilizer.

One more perk: The bucket has a built-in spigot to make compost tea simpler to tap. (This feature does make it look like a lemonade dispenser, so warn the kids). Learn more about composting in our guide.

And hey, it wouldn’t hurt to do the mimosas, too. Whatever mom wants!

You can find current prices and availability at Amazon.

13. Pop-Up Water Barrel

Isn’t it time you started collecting rain water for those thirsty plants?

In addition to being environmentally conscious, a rain barrel can cut water bills.

This one’s a great choice for anyone who’s not quite ready for an elaborate system but wants to experiment with the benefits. You simply place it under a drainpipe.

Rain Barrel Pop-Up Water Collector

It’s constructed with a sturdy PVC frame and anti-corrosion PVC mesh to block falling debris, and a water tap at the bottom.

You can break it down and store it folded at season’s end, but it can also withstand winter weather without cracking.

The water barrel holds 60 gallons, and the assembled size is 24 inches in diameter by 32.5 inches tall.

It is available from Goflame via Amazon.

Mom Can Wear It

Others give sundresses or snazzy suits, but might your gardener prefer a different type of attire?

Some of these picks can be worn to the garden, while others are meant to commemorate the green-thumb lifestyle in non-leafy settings.

Try these on for size:

14. Gardening Is My Super Power T-Shirt

This garden-humor T-shirt is 90 percent cotton and 10 percent polyester. As for its message, can we just say, “Ain’t that the truth?”

Along with giving a much-needed laugh, the shirt is durable, with double-needle sleeve and bottom hems.

Gardening Is My Super Power T-Shirt

Don’t be surprised if other family members see mom wearing this and want one, too.

This T-shirt is available in women’s or men’s sizes small through 3XL, in black, navy, olive, dark heather, or heather blue.

You can find this fun t-shirt available from Hero Moose via Amazon.

15. Heirloom Garden Arm Saver Gloves

With a vintage garden print designed by Portland, Oregon-based illustrator Kate Blairstone, these are ultra stylish!

The palms are synthetic leather and the extra-long cuffs are lightweight cotton twill with a bit of Spandex. So, they’re flexible and also protect against blackberry canes, UV rays, and insect bites.

Garden Arm Saver Gloves

And hey, they come from Womanswork, a woman-owned business going strong for 32 years and counting.

Terrain sells these gloves in small, medium, and large sizes.

16. Silk Garden Scarf

Not just smooth as silk, we’re talking actual silk in 14-millimeter weight! This floral print is luxurious but functional, too.

It does double duty as a work or church outfit accessory and attire for the garden, where it’s handy as a head scarf or bandana.

Silk Garden Scarf

It has a hand-stitched hem and can be hand washed or dry cleaned.

This Wyoming Traders silk floral garden scarf is available from Tractor Supply.

Sweet Gestures

When your budget is tight or you’re buying for the “please don’t spend your money on me!” type, garden-themed gifts are a goldmine.

There are so many modest options that still celebrate your bond and say “I care.”

These affordable gestures also help if you’re the sort to recognize lots of moms, stepmoms, family and friends with kids, and dads and grandmas who have stepped into the role.

These choices prove it’s the thought that counts:

17. Botanical Art Notecard Set

Garden-themed but not too cutesy, these notecards have botanical illustrations of vintage plants.

It’s not every day you see a ‘Glass Gem’ corn or ‘Candystripe’ cosmo illustration on greeting cards! Poppy, dill, sunflower and ‘Sugar Magnolia’ cards round out the set.

Botanical Art Notecard Set

They’re also eco-friendly for the tree hugger, printed on Forest Stewardship Council sustainable card stock, with food-safe compostable packaging.

If you’re lucky, you’ll receive one of these cards back. They’re appropriate for matting or framing, or posting on the fridge with a magnet.

Find a boxed set of six art note cards available at Botanical Interests.

18. Mini Microgreen Growing Kit – Salad Mix

This could be a one-time thing, or the start of a fun hobby that involves fresh, healthy food.

This single-serve microgreen kit is a low-commitment entry into the world of growing microgreens.

Salad Mix Microgreens Kit

It includes a container, humidity lid, pre-measured soil puck, and mist sprayer.

There are also enough organic microgreen seeds to grow a small salad or a bunch of garnishes – in about a week!

This salad mix microgreen kit is available from True Leaf Market.

19. Rainbow Pastel Mix Anemone Bulbs

Anemone flowers are both simple and luxurious.

They are shaped like large poppies, and bloom on low-growing plants. Think of them as growing a carpet no one will ever have to vacuum!

Rainbow Pastel Mix Anemone Bulbs

And these are spring-planted bulbs, so you can give them and plant them all in the same celebration.

Learn more about growing and caring for anemones in our guide, in case mom gets hooked on this easy-grow flower.

‘Rainbow Pastel’ anemone bulbs are available in bags of 20, 40, or 60 from Eden Brothers.

Mother’s Day Gifts for Your Favorite Green Thumb

Do you have more great ideas for gifts green-thumbed moms might appreciate? Make mom proud by sharing them in the comments section below.

And if this list has inspired you, read these roundups next for more garden-theme gift-giving suggestions:

Phlox paniculata

Tall and stately with sweetly fragrant clouds of billowing blooms, garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) is an upright, showy plant that flowers throughout the hot days of summer.

A North American wildflower that’s become a classic, garden or tall phlox is easily grown and produces large clusters of ornate flower heads.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

These clump-forming perennials are highly attractive to pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, with small, tubular flowers densely packed into flattened, round, or pyramid-shaped panicles.

Flowering for six weeks or more from July to September, they add blooms in luscious, tropical shades of lavender, pink, rose, scarlet, orange, purple, and white – right when many flowers start to hide from the heat.

A stellar performer for sunny borders, foundations, and islands or in butterfly and cottage gardens, phlox is typically grown in temperate areas – it needs moist soil and can’t handle drought.

These plants do have a bit of a reputation for being prone to powdery mildew, but breeders are continuously developing new cultivars with improved mildew resistance, which extends their range into warmer and more humid USDA Hardiness Zones.

So if you’re ready to add some colorful, long-lasting flowers to your landscape, join us now to read all about how to plant and grow garden phlox!

Here’s what you’ll learn about up ahead:

What Is Garden Phlox?

Garden phlox (P. paniculata) is a species of upright, clumping herbaceous perennials in the Phlox genus that grow two to four feet tall with a spread of two to three feet.

Other common names include fall, late, perennial, and summer phlox, indicators that P. paniculata is the last of the cultivated species to flower in the growing season.

Large terminal clusters of small, tubular, five-petaled flowers have a sweet scent and bloom from July to September. Flowers are available in pretty pastels or saturated tropical shades of blue, lavender, orange, pink, purple, red, and white.

Dark green leaves have a pointed, elliptical shape, oppositely arranged on stiff stems that require no staking, although container plants and those grown in shade may need a stake or two to keep outer stems upright.

These hardy plants are woodland natives and need consistently moist soil to thrive, struggling in areas where moisture is inadequate.

Typically grown in temperate zones, they’re easily cultivated in the right conditions but may suffer from powdery mildew, particularly in heat and humidity.

Many of today’s cultivars are bred for improved disease resistance, making them better suited for hot and humid regions – but they still don’t like hot, dry soil.

A magnet for pollinators, garden phlox is a favorite of bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Plants exhibit decent resistance to deer, though rabbits and deer can cause problems by chewing on tender new growth and foliage. They tend to avoid the fragrant flowers.

If marauding herbivores are causing damage in your landscape, be sure to read our guides for tips on deer-proofing your yard and how to keep rabbits away.

Plants die back to the ground in winter and are hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8, with some cultivars hardy only to Zone 4.

Several other species in the Phlox genus are widely cultivated as well.

In early spring, the creeping and moss varieties (P. stolonifera and P. subulata) add stunning blankets of color to ground covers and rock gardens.

The next in the genus to flower is annual or medium phlox, P. drummondii, with bright blooms from early spring to early summer.

Plant some of these with the late-flowering garden varieties to enjoy easy-care phlox flowers for the entire growing season.

Cultivation and History

Endemic to the woodlands of the central and eastern US, P. paniculata was the first phlox species to be bred by European growers, with cultivars appearing in England by the early 1800s.

The genus name comes from the Greek word for flame (phlox), referencing the brightly colored flowers of native species.

The species epithet paniculata refers to plants that flower in panicles.

There are hundreds of P. paniculata cultivars and dozens have received the prestigious Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, including beauties like ‘Flamingo,’ ‘Peacock Cherry Red,’ and ‘Prince of Orange.’

Today’s breeding takes place mainly in the Netherlands and the US, with an emphasis on developing dwarf and mildew-resistant varieties.

Propagation

The best methods of propagating tall phlox are by taking basal stem cuttings, root division, or sowing seeds.

From Basal Stem Cuttings

Take basal stem cuttings in spring after new growth is at least six inches tall.

Use clean, sharp scissors or shears to cut four-inch stems close to the ground, cutting just above a set of leaf nodes.

Strip away leaves from the lower half and dip the cut end in rooting hormone if desired.

Prepare small pots or trays with a finely textured, sandy potting mix. Moisten the soil thoroughly but not to the point of being wet.

Insert cuttings until the lowest leaves are half an inch above the soil and space so leaves aren’t touching. Firm the soil gently around the stems.

Place in a brightly lit location out of direct sunlight.

Keep the soil lightly moist until the cuttings root, in three to five weeks.

Once rooting is established with new growth, transplant out to the garden after hardening off.

Via Root Division

Root division is best performed in early spring, just as new growth appears, or in early autumn after flowering has finished.

Prepare the planting site by digging down 12 inches to loosen the soil. Break up any lumps and discard stones and debris.

Mix in a shovelful of compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil.

To help keep the soil moist, mix in a shovelful of moisture-retentive materials such as coconut coir, peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite.

Add in a shovelful of granite chips, landscape sand, or pea gravel to improve drainage if needed.

Stir in one or two tablespoons of bone meal for healthy root development.

When the planting area is ready, take your divisions. Use a clean, sharp spade or garden fork inserted a few inches outside of the root zone to lift clumps.

Divide each clump into equal sections with a clean, sharp knife or spade. Each section needs at least two or three strong shoots and a portion of healthy roots.

Replant divisions immediately.

Place the divisions with the crown one to two inches below the soil surface then backfill and gently firm the soil.

Water lightly to settle in place.

Springtime divisions need to be kept well-watered through spring and summer.

Fall divisions should be given a four- to six-inch layer of mulch, such as bark mulch, leaf mold, or straw, to prevent damage from freeze/thaw cycles. Remove winter mulches in early spring.

From Seed

To direct sow seeds, plant in spring after all danger of frost has passed or in fall, about a month before first frost.

Scatter seeds evenly over prepared soil then barely cover with one-eighth of an inch of soil.

Water gently to moisten the soil and seeds.

When seedlings are six inches tall, thin to 10 inches apart.

To start seeds indoors, sow six to eight weeks before your last frost date.

Fill seed cells or trays with a finely textured seed-starting mix.

Sow seeds evenly over the top or place one to two per cell, and barely cover with one-eighth of an inch of soil.

Water gently to moisten the soil, but don’t let it become overly wet.

Place pots or trays in a bright location out of direct sunlight and maintain temperatures of 65 to 70°F. Germination will take up to 21 days. Maintain soil moisture throughout this period.

Once the seedlings are large enough to handle, with at least two sets of true leaves, transplant individually into small four-inch pots filled with the same mix and continue to keep the soil moist.

Once overnight temperatures stay above 50°F, harden off seedlings for a week before transplanting out to the garden as described below.

Hardening off to outdoor conditions involves providing 30 minutes to one hour of exposure on the first day before bringing them back inside, and then adding to the exposure gradually over each consecutive day to follow until they can withstand conditions full-time.

How to Grow

For the best flowering, set garden phlox in a full sun location in humus-rich and moist but well-draining soil with a neutral pH of 6.0 to 8.0.

Allow ample spacing between plants to ensure the adequate air circulation needed to thwart the spread of powdery mildew. Provide light afternoon shade in areas with very hot sunshine.

Prepare the planting site as outlined in the Root Division section above, amending the soil with compost, moisture-retaining matter, and drainage materials as needed.

Mix in one to two tablespoons of bone meal for strong, healthy roots.

Set plants in place with the crown one to two inches below the soil line, spacing plants 12 to 24 inches apart depending on the cultivar. In heat and humidity, proper spacing is crucial to prevent the spread of unfriendly fungi.

Backfill with soil and firm gently.

Water thoroughly and keep the soil moderately moist throughout the growing season – phlox does not do well in dry or hot soil.

Add a two- to four-inch layer of mulch over the root zone to help retain moisture and prevent roots from drying out. Use mulch materials such as compost, leaf mold, or straw.

Avoid overhead watering or watering late in the day to minimize the chances of spreading powdery mildew spores.

For container growth, choose dwarf cultivars.

Use pots with drainage holes. I cover the holes with a two-inch layer of drainage materials such as broken pottery or pebbles.

Fill with a humus-rich, moisture-retentive, and well-draining soil and mix in one to two tablespoons of bone meal.

Set plants as outlined above then water to settle in place.

Place containers in a full sun location and water regularly to keep the soil lightly moist.

Growing Tips

In the right conditions, garden phlox is easy to grow – the following tips help provide optimal conditions for the best flower production.

• Plant in full sun.
• Space plants adequately to provide ample air circulation.
• Keep the soil moderately moist and apply a summer mulch to keep roots cool and help retain moisture.

Now let’s look at what garden phlox needs for regular maintenance.

Pruning and Maintenance

Phlox plants are heavy feeders and give their best display with two feedings during the growing season.

Along with enriching the soil with organic matter when planting, feed clumps in early spring just as new growth emerges from the soil and again in early summer just before the buds open up.

In spring, use a two-inch layer of compost or manure spread over the root zone, an application of liquid or water-soluble fertilizer, or use slow-release pellets with a balanced formula like 10-10-10 NPK.

Burpee Enhanced Organic All-Purpose Plant Food

Burpee Enhanced Organic All-Purpose Plant Food has a formula of 5-5-5 NPK and lasts for three months. It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags.

For the summer feeding, do not use slow-release granular fertilizer.

Liquid fertilizers release nutrients immediately, giving flower buds a needed boost before opening, and compost and manure release nutrients quickly each time plants are watered.

Agro Thrive Organic General Purpose Liquid Fertilizer

Agro Thrive has a five-gallon bucket of Organic General Purpose Liquid Fertilizer with a 3-3-2 NPK formula that’s available at Home Depot.

If needed, add a two-inch layer of mulch to keep the soil cool and moist. Materials like bark mulch, shredded leaves, or straw make a good summer mulch.

Phlox self-seeds readily, but cultivar offspring usually aren’t true to the parent plant. Deadhead spent flowers to prevent unwanted reseeding.

Pruning isn’t required, but for bushier plants with more flowers, cut back up to half of the stems by one-third in mid-spring to force branching and bud development.

Use clean, sharp shears to prune away stems from the outside perimeter and a few from the interior to improve air circulation.

Also, due to their heavy feeding, divide and reset clumps every four years to rejuvenate plants with fresh, rich soil. Follow the steps in the Root Division section above to revitalize plants.

Cut away dead and decaying plant matter in late fall and clean beds thoroughly to prevent overwintering pathogens. Stems can be cut down to the ground.

In regions with freezing temperatures, provide plants with a four-inch layer of winter mulch, such as bark mulch, sawdust (from untreated lumber), straw, or pine boughs.

Clean away winter mulches in early spring after new growth emerges.

For containers, feed as outlined above and provide a summer mulch to help retain moisture.

Before winter arrives, clean away dead plant matter and move the pots into a sheltered spot such as against a fence, foundation, or wall.

Apply a thick, four-inch layer of winter mulch to protect the roots from freeze/thaw cycles, and insulate pots as needed to prevent damage from freezing temperatures.

In early spring, remove the mulch and move pots back to their growing location.

Cultivars to Select

There are hundreds of gorgeous P. paniculata cultivars to choose from! The following is a small sample of robust, mildew-resistant varieties.

Backlight

Long-stemmed beauties, ‘Backlight’ shines in the landscape with radiant white flowers sporting small chartreuse eyes that bloom from early to late summer.

Growing 24 to 36 inches tall and spreading 18 to 24 inches, the fragrant flowers form in large pyramid-shaped panicles that are beautifully supported on tall, strong stems covered in dark green foliage.

‘Backlight’

A serene selection for beds, foundations, islands, and cottage gardens, be sure to plant some in the cutting garden – you’ll want plenty for floral arrangements as well. Hardy in Zones 3 to 8.

Containers of ‘Backlight’ are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

Desire

A compact rebloomer in the Bambini® series, ‘Desire’ (aka ‘Versde’) develops dense clumps loaded with fragrant flower heads of deep, rosy magenta-to-purple and light flares around the eyes.

Plants are strongly branching with a dwarf habit of only 10 inches tall and wide. They flower from early summer until autumn and deadheading encourages reblooming.

‘Desire’

A strong choice for containers and planters or massed in beds, borders, and edging, ‘Desire’ is hardy in Zones 3 to 8.

Three-packs of bare root plants are available at Home Depot.

Glamor Girl

From the Garden Girls™ collection, ‘Glamor Girl’ adds allure with large domes of hot coral pink flowers, with older blooms fading to a pretty candy pink.

The handsome dark green foliage has strong purple tones. Plants flower from early to late summer, and rebloom with deadheading.

‘Glamor Girl’ grows 24 to 36 inches tall with a 24-inch spread. A superb choice as a specimen or massed for beds, borders, and butterfly or cottage gardens, the fragrant blooms also make a top-notch cut flower.

‘Glamor Girl’

Garden Girls™ selections are a good choice for growing in heat and humidity. These plants are hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

Plants in nursery containers are available at Burpee.

Orange Perfection

A hardy plant with delightful salmon-orange flowers, ‘Orange Perfection’ blooms vigorously from early summer into fall.

The fragrant flowers form large globes on vigorous stems that grow 24 to 36 inches tall with a similar spread.

‘Orange Perfection’

An eye-catching choice as a specimen plant or massed into beds, borders, foundations, and islands, the long stems also make beautiful cut flowers. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

Plants are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

Uptown Girl

Another selection from the Garden Girls™ collection, ‘Uptown Girl’ struts in style with glorious pastel pink flowers and rosy pink eyes.

A good rebloomer, the perfumed, domed panicles rise on strong purple stems with a mature height of 32 to 36 inches and spread 28 to 32 inches.

‘Uptown Girl’

‘Uptown Girl’ is a strong performer in heat and humidity and makes an excellent choice as a border plant, cut flower, or mass planted in beds and cottage gardens. Hardy in Zones 3 to 8.

Bare root plants are available at Burpee.

Managing Pests and Disease

In ideal conditions, garden phlox has few problems – but there are some issues to watch for.

Spider mites can make an appearance, particularly in hot, dry conditions. Infestations occur on the underside of leaves and cause yellow foliage and general plant decline.

Spray with an insecticidal soap to control infestations and ensure the soil stays moist to prevent plant stress. In areas with hot sun, provide light afternoon shade.

The most common disease to watch for is powdery mildew.

Caused by Erysiphe cichoracearum fungi, it appears as a white to gray fuzzy mold on stems and foliage. Infected plants are weakened and common symptoms include leaf drop and stem collapse.

Powdery mildew is most prevalent in areas with high humidity, and the best cure is prevention.

Choose mildew-resistant varieties, like the ones in our Cultivars to Select section, and avoid overcrowding plants – adequate air circulation is a must. Remove and safely discard infected leaves and stems promptly.

Also, if your plants have had powdery mildew in the past, you can use a preventative homemade spray to minimize reappearances. Apply in late spring when temperatures are starting to heat up.

In a large spray bottle, add one quart of water, one tablespoon baking soda, and half a teaspoon of mild dish soap.

Shake well to mix and spray on plants, including the underside of leaves – you want to do this before the mildew appears.

Best Uses

Perennial phlox is an excellent, low-maintenance plant that’s widely used in the background of mixed beds, as a border, and in butterfly, cottage, and rain gardens.

Their long bloom time also makes a handsome addition to foundation or island plantings and the long-lasting flowers are a must-have for the cutting garden.

For containers, patio planters, and window boxes, use the compact dwarf varieties and taller ones for beds, borders, and foundations.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous flowering perennial	Flower / Foliage Color:	Blue, magenta, mauve, orange, pink, purple, red, white/dark green, sometimes tinged in purple
Native to:	Central and northeastern US	Water Needs:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-8	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time/Season:	Early summer to early autumn	Soil Type:	Humus rich
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	6.0-8.0
Time to Maturity:	180-200 days (seed)	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	12-24 inches, depending on cultivar	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:	1/8 inch (seed), 2 inches (crown of transplants)	Uses:	Beds; borders; islands; foundations; butterfly, cottage, and cutting gardens; use dwarf cultivars for containers, planters, and window boxes
Height:	10-36 inches	Family:	Polemoniaceae
Spread:	12-30 inches	Genus:	Phlox
Common Pests and Diseases:	Spider mites; powdery mildew	Species:	Paniculata

Flowering Finery

With bright colors, a sweet scent, and a long season, garden phlox adds flowering finery throughout the landscape.

Provide a summer mulch to keep roots cool and moist and give them adequate spacing to prevent powdery mildew.

Feed at planting time and again right before the flowers open – after that, all you have to do is enjoy!

What are your favorite mildew-resistant garden phlox varieties? Let us know in the comments below.

And for more cultivated North American wildflowers, add these guides to your reading list next:

We’ve visited Lee’s garden in the Mohawk Valley in central New York before (Back to the Mohawk Valley), but today Lee is taking us to see it in a different way.

I went through some of my files with the thought of finding some of the more close-up pictures of various blooms. Even though the vast majority of growers and gardeners have seen and probably have many of these species, it is always inspiring, motivational, or just plain ol’ entertaining to take a deep look into those blooms.

They truly are a world of their own when focusing so closely to what Mother Nature offers our eyes—when we truly look rather than just pass by and move on to the next bloom. With this said, I hope that at least a few people like to really look into those blooms of their own and “study” the amazing structures within. If they haven’t in the past, maybe some bloom pictures will move the needle just a touch. And a reminder: Spring, as everything comes into growth, is a great opportunity to enjoy viewing those sprouts prior to full foliage and subsequent blooms. Sprouts are, well, cool.

I wish you all a great spring wake-up and subsequent blooming summer!

We often focus on tulips when still in bud, with the petals held upright, but this fully open tulip shot from above shows a whole new perspective. This is one of the fringed tulip varieties, with a distinctive shredded edge to the petals.

The extra petals on this double-flowered tulip create a mass of brilliant color.

This view down into a tulip highlights the stigma and anthers, the parts that actually get pollinated to produce seeds and the next generation.

The flamboyant color and texture of a parrot tulip.

Staring into the center of this daylily (Hemerocallis hybrid, Zones 4–9) reveals its dark, nearly black petals shifting dramatically into yellow-green.

The diversity of daylilies is mind-boggling. This soft peach-colored one has thick, extravagantly ruffled petals.

The true lilies (Lilium species and hybrids) can be a little fussier to grow than daylilies, but wow—they can be worth it! What a stunning flower this is.

Tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium, Zones 3–9) is a vigorous species lily, with bright orange, spotted petals.

A dahlia (Dahlia × variabilis, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb) with incredible dark red-and-white-striped petals shows a hint of the yellow pollen in the center of the bloom.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Q: What do you love most about bird watching?

A: Birdwatching focuses my attention on the present moment, both where I am geographically and in time. I deeply appreciate the pause and wonder it adds to any given day. Birds are also tremendously charismatic, both across species and as individuals. I love their good company.

Q: What advice can you give for someone who wants to get started?

A: Birds are everywhere, so the best first step is to head outside (or look out a window) and start to notice them. I was astonished at how much I hadn’t seen just because I wasn’t conscientiously looking. When I started to take birding seriously, I also found serious birders to go out with. Their guidance helped me find better landscapes, test out various binoculars, and identify birds new to me. Many nature centers and conservation organizations offer bird walks, and I’m always pleasantly surprised at how collegial and welcoming those groups can be. The Feminist Bird Club and Birdabilty make birding even more accessible. Apps like EBird, Merlin Bird ID, and Sibley Birds are all fantastic for becoming familiar with the locations, sounds, and visuals of where and how to see birds.

Q: What can I do at home to lure birds?

A: I encourage you to move beyond the birdfeeder: birds need places to shelter, nest and play, too. If you have your own outdoor space, you can recultivate bird habitat. Before your home was there, a historic landscape of plants and insects supported the local and migratory bird populations. Do your research and find out what native plants best support birds near you.

If you are bringing more birds to your yard, you must make your windows bird-safe, too, or you’ll hurt the very birds you’re trying to help. The American Bird Conservancy provides easy resources to do this appropriately: Glass Collisions: Preventing Bird Window Strikes.

Q: Are there specific plants to grow? For example: if you plant it, they will come?

A: Across much of North America, oak trees are a fantastic place to start because of the hundreds of insects they attract—but fruiting trees and shrubs like hollies, junipers, raspberries and blackberries can all help too. The types of plants you choose depend on where you (and your birds!) live, but universally your best first step is to look up native plants to your region and make that your starting place. Pay attention to how they are planted, too—some birds like skulking in big clumps of shrubbery and others prefer open spaces. I learn my best landscaping lessons from taking photos of naturally occurring “birdy” spaces, and mirroring the design in my own yard. [To read more about Annie’s thoughts on native plants and birds, go here.]

Q: What can I do as an individual to protect birds?

Bird populations have plummeted across the Americas, including our most well-known birds, like the American Robin. This is due in no small part to large scale threats like habitat loss, but other contributors include easily addressable issues on the individual scale. The American Bird Conservancy does a fantastic job balancing civic actions like advocating on behalf of birds to your congressperson, and helping you find personal solutions, like deciding to keep your cat indoors. You can learn more about their work and how to participate at abcbirds.org.

See also:

You need to login or register to view and manage your bookmarks.

In this article, you’ll learn all you need to know to cultivate this cottage garden classic.

Here’s what’s in store:

Cultivation and History

The Greek word “helios” means “sun,” and “tropos,” turn. Heliotrope’s name is derived from its habit of turning to face the sun, a characteristic which all “heliotropic” plants exhibit.

The colors of the heliotrope blooms range from dark and light shades of purple to white. Its clustered five-lobe flowers resemble those of the forget-me-not.

Also called the common heliotrope and cherry pie plant, these humble names belie a beguiling fragrance that has been described as cherry-almond-vanilla.

This plant has a temperate nature, meaning that it can’t withstand harsh weather extremes. It is best suited to gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11.

In my area of the northeast, it grows as a tender annual. This means that even a touch of frost spells disaster.

Elsewhere in the world, it is a tropical woody perennial. This is how it was growing when it was discovered in the 18th century in the Andes mountains of Peru, by French botanist Joseph de Jussieau, and brought to Europe.

Soon its essence became the stuff of perfumes, and its beauty a backdrop for romance in lush cottage gardens.

Propagation

You can start this plant from seeds or from stem cuttings.

This easy to grow plant thrives in the garden, as well as in both outdoor and indoor containers.

Maturity takes between 84 and 121 days, so if you’re growing from seed, it’s best to get a head start indoors before planting out.

From Seed

Start seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last average frost date for your region.

Sow 1/8-inch deep in seed starting trays with good quality potting soil and cover them lightly with soil.

Germination can take between 28-40 days, during which time the soil needs to be kept at an even temperature of 70-75°F. You may need to use a heat mat. Maintain even moisture but do not allow the soil to become over-saturated.

After germination, keep the seedlings indoors until the danger of frost has passed and the soil your garden has warmed to 60°F.

As the seedlings mature, pinch back the growing tips to promote lateral, bushy growth.

Seeds do not produce the most reliable results, nor the strongest plants. Hybrids do not produce seed that replicates the traits and quality of a parent plant.

From Cuttings

Towards summer’s end, you may cut stem tips from existing plants to root for next year.

This is an excellent way to clone a favorite plant and give it a chance to grow strong before planting out the following spring.

Cut a five-inch section of a stem, just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves from the top half of the stem cutting, dip in powered rooting hormone and place in a small pot filled with a mixture of sand and perlite, or potting medium.

Keep the rooting cuttings indoors, or in a greenhouse, and maintain even moisture. They should develop roots within two weeks.

Once rooted, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged and they’ll be ready to plant out after the last spring frost date passes.

From Seedlings or Transplanting

Alternatively, you can find seedlings or nursery starts at your local garden center. They may be planted out when the danger of frost has passed, and the soil temperature is over 60°F.

Dig a hole the same size as the container the transplant is growing in. Set the root ball in, and tamp down the soil before watering in well.

All three methods yield plants that may be grown as annuals, tender perennials in the garden or containers, or indoors as houseplants.

How to Grow

The ideal conditions for growing heliotrope are a full sun location, and organically-rich, well-draining soil. The soil pH should be between 6.6 and 7.3.

And while it loves to bask in the rays, in regions with intense summer heat, it not only tolerates a little light afternoon shade, it benefits from this protection.

One of the most important aspects of growing heliotrope is to keep the soil evenly moist, never letting it dry out completely, nor permitting it to get soggy and over saturated.

This is especially challenging when growing in containers, as they dry out much quicker than ground soil.

Be sure that your ground soil or potting medium drains well, as plants do not tolerate wet feet. Add sand to the soil as needed, and choose containers with holes in the bottom.

As mentioned, you need to start heliotrope early, in order for it to have time to bloom during the growing season, and before the threat of autumn frost.

If you want to grow heliotrope as a houseplant, use a standard garden pot with a top rim diameter of 18 inches.

Bring your plant indoors at summer’s end. Place it where it can receive daytime sunshine, and nighttime temperatures of 50°F to 55°F. If necessary, place the pot on a wheeled caddy, to make it easy to move around to meet these needs.

Both indoor and outdoor heliotropes are known as “heavy feeders,” and benefit from regular doses of flowering plant food throughout the growing season, according to the package instructions.

Growing Tips

This is a plant that likes lush surroundings where it can produce an abundance of rich blossoms that mesmerize with their enchanting fragrance.

The following tips are sure to bring success:

• Full sun is best, but a little afternoon shade is appreciated in the hottest regions.
• Keep the soil evenly moist, but be sure it drains well.
• Feed throughout the growing season for a profusion of blooms.

Pruning and Maintenance

While you are likely to find many descriptions that say this is a low-maintenance plant, in my opinion, it requires a bit of fussing to keep it happy and blooming profusely.

First, if you are growing it as an annual out of its comfort zone, you’ll have to start really early, or there won’t be time for it to bloom before the danger of frost rears its head in fall.

In addition, a delicate balance is needed between keeping the soil moist at all times, but never soggy enough to cause the roots to rot. This is especially challenging with container plants, as pots dry out quicker than the ground.

For bushier plants, you may pinch off a few inches off the growing tips of the stems. Do this as soon as your seedlings have their first flush of growth in spring, and before budding.

Fertilization throughout the growing season is required, which poses an additional challenge. Be sure to choose a well-balanced product, such as 10-10-10 (NPK) and consider diluting it to see how it affects your plants.

Too much nitrogen may result in an excess of foliage at the expense of blooms.

To keep plants bushy and attractive, prune leggy stems. When a cluster of flowers has finished blooming, remove the entire stem to retain shape, energize the plant, and encourage reblooming.

If you are growing plants as annuals, you may bring them indoors as houseplants at season’s end. Find them a spot with sunny days, and nights between 50°F to 55°F, as mentioned above.

Containers will likely need repotting every few years in the spring to refresh the potting medium.

Spring is also the time to divide outdoor perennials as well as indoor houseplants, to rejuvenate them and make more plants.

And finally, once plants die to the ground at season’s end, you can cut down the remains and apply a layer of mulch over the root area. This may prove especially beneficial if you are cultivating them on the cool fringe of their comfort zone.

Best Uses

The fragrant, flouncy blossoms of heliotrope have many attractive garden applications.

Add it to a collection of nectar-rich bloomers for a space that teems with butterflies, or give it an island of its own where its fragrance can multiply and captivate.

Edge a border garden for a swath of color along a winding walkway.

Start a collection of hanging planters on the patio or make a window box display for up-close appreciation of heliotrope’s heavenly scent.

There are so many possibilities!

If you want to try your hand at horticultural art, learn how to train your plants like rose standards for a formal, tree-like appearance.

And finally, be sure to cut stems for vases, or bring entire plants indoors as houseplants, to enjoy them indoors, as well as out.

Good companion plants with the same cultural requirements include African daisy, dahlia, hardy geranium, hydrangea, stock, and viburnum. Depending upon your zone, these plants may be annuals or perennials, or may grow best in containers, where they may be moved into protected areas as needed.

From cottage gardens to those that showcase fragrance or appeal specifically to pollinators, heliotrope makes a noteworthy addition.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Tender shrubby perennial	Flower / Foliage Color:	Purple to white; dark green tinged with purple
Native to:	Peru	Tolerance:	Deer
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	9-11	Soil Type:	Organically-rich
Bloom Time / Season:	Summer and fall	Soil pH:	6.6-7.3
Exposure:	Full sun to part shade	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	12-18 inches	Attracts:	Bees, beneficial pollinators, butterflies
Planting Depth:	Seeds: surface sow 1/8 inch deep; transplants: same depth as container	Companion Planting:	African daisy, dahlia, geranium, hydrangea, stock, viburnum
Height:	1-3 feet	Uses:	Beds, border edging, butterfly gardens, containers, cottage gardens, fragrant gardens, hanging baskets, houseplants, mass plantings, standards, window boxes
Spread:	1-3 feet	Order:	Boraginales
Growth Rate:	Medium	Family:	Boraginaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Heliotropium
Maintenance:	Moderate	Species:	arborescens
Common Pests:	Aphids, mealy bugs, spider mites, white flies	Common Disease:	Root rot

It doesn’t just make for good eating, either.

The dark green, frilly leaves make an impressive showing in the garden on plants that can reach six feet tall at maturity. The bright yellow flowers are marvelously fragrant in July.

It’s purported to have some powerful medicinal qualities, as well.

Perhaps that’s why the Romans thought lovage was important enough that they brought it with them on their conquest of Britain, and European colonists didn’t want to leave it behind when they traveled to the New World.

Charlemagne declared that it should be grown in every Imperial garden, and Queen Victoria used to carry lovage candies around with her.

It’s a mystery to me why it fell out of favor.

Happily, Levisticum officinale is finally starting to get more modern-day recognition in home gardens and fine restaurants.

Are you ready to make this plant a part of your life? Then keep reading.

Here’s what’s ahead in this growing guide:

What Is Lovage?

Lovage is a member of the Apiaceae, or Umbellifer family, and it tastes and looks a lot like celery. It’s sometimes called smellage or maggi plant. In Italy it is often referred to as sedano di monte, or mountain celery.

This herb is native to western Asia, parts of the Middle East, and the Mediterranean region. It has been cultivated around the globe for centuries, and has naturalized in some areas of North America and most of Europe.

The English common name “lovage” comes from the Middle English word “lovache,” or “loveache.” Levisticum is derived from the Latin word ligusticum, which in turn is derived from ligusticus – meaning “Ligurian” – from the Liguria region of northwest Italy where this plant was extensively cultivated.

Packed with vitamin C and various B-complex vitamins, it also contains quercetin, a plant pigment with anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties.

L. officinale is the definition of a fuss-free plant. It needs minimal care and it will reseed itself readily, so you won’t have to replant it over and over.

The plants can grow up to six feet tall, with a 32-inch spread, so they make stately specimens in the garden. Lovage is suitable for gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9, and it prefers a cool climate to a hot one.

The perennial plants die back to the ground and go dormant during the winter, and reemerge in the spring. They grow quickly, so you can expect your first harvest within a few months of planting.

The leaves look a bit like flat leaf parsley, with a dark to medium green color and a glossy texture.

The plants produce yellow flowers in umbrella-shaped umbels before setting seed in late summer. The roots are grayish brown with cream interiors.

When the plants first emerge from the soil, the stems have a reddish tint to them.

Ligusticum scotium, also known as Scottish lovage or Scottish licorice root, is a less-common relative of L. officinale that looks similar, but with a bolder flavor.

It’s native to the rocky coasts of the United Kingdom and north into Denmark and Norway.

Medicinal Use

Medicinally, lovage has been used as a diuretic, a stimulant, an anti-inflammatory, to regulate menstrual cycles, and as a treatment for jaundice.

It is often made into infusions, tinctures, and essential oils, as well as lozenges and vinegars. It’s also been used cosmetically, and a tincture or salve made from the leaves can be applied to the skin to soothe rashes and psoriasis, and help to clear up acne.

There have been a few studies that support the claim that lovage can act as a diuretic, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory agent.

Because it appears to have some diuretic properties, anyone with heart or kidney problems, or pregnant or lactating women, shouldn’t ingest it. There’s also some question about whether consuming the plant can raise blood pressure by impacting sodium levels in the body, so exercise caution.

It can also interact with diuretic medications like Lasix and Diuril, causing individuals who take these to lose too much body fluid, and it may interact with anticoagulants. Consult with your doctor if you’re on any of these medications and plan to add lovage to your diet or herbal treatment plan.

Consuming or using lovage on the skin can sometimes cause photodermatitis, a condition that increases light sensitivity, resulting in an inflammatory skin condition.

Propagation

Lovage may be propagated by planting seeds or through root division. Unfortunately, it’s not always easy to find plants at your local nursery, though I’ve had some luck now and then.

By Seed

Direct-sow lovage seeds outdoors once soil temperatures are above 60°F. Sprinkle the seeds on prepared soil and lightly cover them with sand.

Alternatively, start seeds indoors 5-6 weeks before the last frost. Place seeds on top of fresh seed starting mix and cover lightly with sand.

Maintain even moisture, but don’t allow soil to become waterlogged.

Keep in mind that saved seeds can suffer from low germination rates, and they can take up to 20 days to emerge. Only use fresh seeds that are under a year old, as they don’t store well.

Seedlings and Transplants

When your seedlings have at least 2 sets of true leaves – or if you have purchased nursery starts – and all risk of frost has passed, you can transplant them into the garden.

Work in plenty of compost or well-rotted manure to your soil, and dig a hole the size of the root ball. Tamp the soil down and water in well.

Root Division

You can also propagate lovage through root division. In the spring, after the plant has grown to about a foot tall, dig it up. To be sure that you’re getting enough of the roots, dig down a foot deep and dig out as wide as the plant’s crown.

Lovage has a large and vigorous root system, with taproots up to 35 inches long.

While you don’t need to dig up the entire thing, you do want to get enough of the roots for the plant to thrive after it’s replanted. I’ve had success so long as I’m able to keep at least half of the root structure intact.

Shake off any excess soil and carefully divide the crown and roots into two sections, using a garden spade, hori-hori knife, or a pair of trimmers.

Remove any dead roots or branches from the plant, and then replant one half back where it was. Plant the other half in prepared soil in its new location.

How to Grow

Plant lovage in a part to full sun location. It does best in full sun, but it can tolerate a few hours of shade during the day, particularly in warmer growing zones.

The soil should be well-drained with a slightly acidic pH of around 6.5. It prefers sandy, loamy soil. Add plenty of organic matter when planting – unlike other Mediterranean herbs, it likes rich earth.

Keep the soil moist to the touch at all times, but not wet. If the soil dries out, the leaves tend to get bitter. Add an inch or two of leaf mold, peat moss, or grass clippings as a mulch to help retain water.

Space plants 18 inches apart. They reach maturity 85-95 days after planting.

You can grow lovage in containers, but keep in mind that with its large root system, you’ll need a fairly large pot, at least 12 inches deep and wide.

I get around the problem by growing lovage in my potted tree containers. That way, they have plenty of room, with the added bonus of getting a little shade in the heat of the day.

The plants themselves don’t need protection from the sun, but I found that doing this when I lived in a hot desert climate helped to keep the soil moist, so the flavor of the leaves didn’t turn bitter.

When I get desperate for the flavor of lovage in the winter, I’ll succession plant. Start seeds every few weeks indoors in 8-inch pots, and harvest all the leaves when the plant is about a month old.

Lovage gets too large to grow indoors permanently, but it grows quickly enough that you can get a small harvest every few weeks by succession planting.

While you don’t have to prune lovage, particularly if you’re harvesting the leaves regularly, it won’t hurt to trim large plants a bit to maintain the shape and size.

To do this, take some sharp pruners and cut the stems back to a spot just above a leaf node.

To keep the plant healthy, don’t take more than half of the leaves at a time.

If you are not harvesting regularly, you should prune once in the middle of the growing season to help promote air circulation and to remove any dead or damaged portions.

If the plant bolts and starts to develop a flower stalk, cut this off unless you want the plant to flower and set seed. Lovage tends to get scraggly looking after it bolts, and the leaves can be unpleasantly bitter.

Companion plant L. officinale with tubers like potatoes. Also keep in mind that lovage flowers attract beneficial parasitic wasps and tachinid flies to the garden, which may help you to battle caterpillars that damage crops.

If you have ants on your lovage plants, this can also be an indicator that you have aphids, because they like to munch on the honeydew that aphids leave behind.

Aphids suck the juices out of plants, so you may see stunted, yellowing, curling, or misshapen leaves.

You may also see black mold that grows in the sugary honeydew. Even if they don’t harm your plant, they can spread disease, so you don’t want them around.

The first line of attack is to regularly spray your plant with a blast of water from the hose to knock them loose. After that, you can try dusting your plant with diatomaceous earth to kill off any lingering aphids.

If things are still looking bad and you can’t get rid of them, use neem oil or spray plants with a mix of 1 part dish soap to 5 parts water. Spray either neem oil or soapy water every few days for 2 weeks.

See this guide to learn more about managing aphids in your garden.

Parsley Worms

The parsley worm, Papilio polyxenes, is a pest that eats plants in the parsley family, as its name implies.

This worm is the larvae of the beautiful swallowtail butterfly. The larvae are actually pretty attractive as far as pests go, with bright green, yellow, and black stripes along their two-inch-long bodies.

You’ll likely spot this colorful worm before you start to notice the damage to your plants, but keep an eye out for missing or nibbled-on leaves and frass as well, indicators that you have an infestation.

Parsley worms aren’t all bad.

The swallowtail butterfly is a pollinator of native plants, and some people plant parsley and dill to attract them. For this reason, I advocate using cautious measures to get rid of the larvae.

Handpick any worms that you spot and relocate them if you can, rather than disposing of them.

Planting a “trap crop” – a few dill plants, perhaps – for the larvae to feed on, and bringing the worms over to this plant when you find them on your food crops, is a workable solution that will help to maintain pollinator populations.

Use floating row covers in the late spring to prevent the adult butterflies from landing on your plants and laying their eggs. If you really can’t stand having them on your plants, use a spray that contains Bt.

Tarnished Plant Bug

The tarnished plant bug, Lygus lineolaris, is an ugly little beetle (if you ask me!) with yellowish-brown spots and black lines on its backs and legs. They’re about a fourth of an inch long as adults, and have long legs and antennae.

Not only does it use its needle-like mouthparts to puncture plants, it spreads disease as well. If you have an infestation of this bug, your plant will likely have distorted, yellowed leaves and growth can be stunted. Plants may fail to form flowers, as well.

It’s important to keep weeds like goldenrod, vetch, wild carrot, clover, and dock away from your lovage, because they are host plants preferred by this insect.

Beyond that, you can cover plants with floating row covers and place white sticky traps around the garden two feet above the ground.

Disease

This herb is mostly untroubled by disease, but there are a couple that can cause problems.

Early Blight

Early blight is a fungal disease caused by Alternaria solani. If you see circular brown spots on the leaves and stems of your plants, either with or without yellow halos around them, it could be early blight.

You can remove infected branches and spray plants with a copper-based fungicide to try to control it, but prevention is best.

To prevent this infection, rotate crops regularly and give your plants plenty of space. Prune them regularly to improve air circulation. Also, be cautious about adding too much mulch to the soil, as this can cause it to become waterlogged.

Leaf Spot

Leaf spot may be caused by a variety of different types of bacteria and fungi. You’ll know you have it if you see black water-soaked spots on leaves.

Left uncontrolled, the spots will merge together, and entire leaves can turn yellow and drop.

The pathogens that cause leaf spot prefer warm temperatures and lots of moisture. Wind and water can transmit the bacteria and fungi between plants, and they can overwinter in garden debris and soil.

That’s why it’s important to keep your garden clean. Rake up any plant debris, and add a layer of mulch to prevent water from splashing up onto your plants. Water at the base of plants and avoid overhead irrigation.

There is no cure, but a mix of 1 part baking soda, 3 parts vegetable oil, and 1 part liquid soap, added to a gallon of water and sprayed on plants, can help to slow its progression.

Harvesting

In the first year, only harvest the leaves of your plant. In the second year, you can start to harvest the stalks and roots.

If you plan to harvest the entire plant, roots and all, do it in October when the plant has reached its full size.

Young leaves taste best. Harvest them in the morning, after the dew has dried. Take leaves from the outside of the plant first. New growth will resprout from locations where you harvest.

Don’t wash the leaves until you’re ready to use them, as it can cause them to rot. Fresh leaves can be kept in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator for up to a week.

Harvest seeds when the seed heads turn brown. Snip off entire heads and put them in a paper bag to dry. Once they’re dry, roll the seed heads in your hands to remove the brown casings.

Harvest the roots by digging them up with a garden fork. Brush the dirt off, but don’t wash them immediately. You can store them in the refrigerator for several weeks before using.

Preserving

You can preserve lovage roots by washing the roots, slicing them thin, and drying the pieces in a food dehydrator at its lowest setting or in the oven for 6 to 8 hours.

You can also dry the leaves slowly at a low temperature setting, but they don’t retain much of their flavor when dried. If you do choose to dehydrate the leaves, you can grind them for use as a powdered spice.

Find more info on drying fresh herbs here.

Preserve the leaves by freezing them. You can do this by blanching them in boiling water for about 30 seconds and then shocking them in cold water to stop the cooking process.

Drain, and dry the leaves off on a paper towel then lay them on trays and put them in the freezer. After they have frozen, transfer the leaves to airtight freezer storage bags.

The stems can be preserved by pickling.

Use a ratio of three parts water to one part vinegar, plus 1 tablespoon of salt per cup of vinegar. Bring the mixture to a boil, and stir until the salt is dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow the brine to cool.

Add a sliced shallot, some pink peppercorns, or celery seeds. Fill a canning jar with the lovage stems, leaving an inch of room at the top. Fill the jar with brine mixture, covering the stalks. Refrigerate and use within 2 months.

You can also chop up the stems and freeze them. They’ll be good for up to six months.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

When it comes to cooking, you can use the roots of 2-year-old plants, as well as the leaves, stems, and ripe seeds of the plant.

Lovage tastes like celery, a bit sweeter with a stronger flavor. It has hints of anise and parsley, too. The leaves are a bit milder than the stems.

While lots of people recommend using it as a substitute for celery, I find that this herb has a flavor all its own. I’ve even found that celery-hating friends adore lovage. You need to taste it to appreciate the unique flavor.

That said, you can use the stems in any recipe where you would typically use celery or celery leaves.

You can use the stems in egg salad, potato salad, pasta salad, and omelets. You can even saute them in garlic as a vegetable side dish.

Keep in mind that they have a bold taste, so experiment to figure out your preference in terms of how much to add.

You can even take your Bloody Marys up a notch and use long, hollow lovage stems as straws.

The seeds and any oil extracted from them can be used to make liqueurs, flavored oils, and sweet treats. You can also bake them into bread as you would caraway seed.

I like to crush the seeds and mix them with salt to make a seasoning for veggies and meat.

Peel and grate the roots over salads or sandwiches, or cook them as you would salsify.

You can use the leaves to make a refreshing tea, or add them to salads. They also make an appealing pesto or vegetable dip.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial herb	Water Needs:	High
Native to:	Western Asia, Middle East, Mediterranean	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-9	Soil Type:	Sandy, loamy
Season:	Spring-fall	Soil pH:	6.5-7.0
Exposure:	Part to full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Time to Maturity:	85-95 days for leaves, 1 year for stems/roots	Attracts:	Parasitic wasps, swallowtail butterflies, tachinid flies
Spacing:	18 inches	Companion Planting:	Tubers
Planting Depth:	Surface, cover lightly (seed)	Family:	Apiaceae
Height:	4-6 feet	Genus:	Levisticum
Spread:	32 inches	Species::	officinale
Common Pests:	Aphids, leaf miners, parsley worms, tarnished plant bugs	Common Disease:	Early blight, leaf spot

I’ll never understand why garlic scapes aren’t more popular. Outside of the community of garlic growers, most people I talk to have never even heard of them!

Most grocery stores don’t sell them, though if you are lucky you may be able to find them seasonally at your local co-op or farmers market.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

The truth is that these long, swirly green stems you see growing out of garlic plants in early summer are not only edible, they’re exceptionally delicious.

They have a mild garlicky flavor and can be eaten raw, cooked, or even pickled – my favorite.

What’s more, they are a natural part of the plant’s growing process and a cinch to harvest. Continue reading to learn all about growing, picking, and using garlic scapes.

What Are Garlic Scapes?

Scapes form naturally as part of the reproductive cycle of hardneck garlic plants. Note that most softneck varieties do not form scapes.

These round, firm stalks shoot out from the center of the plant in early summer and are ready to harvest about a month or so before the bulbs.

They grow above the height of the leaves, eventually curling around once or twice.

If you don’t remove them, they will first form a cluster of small flowers and eventually produce bulbils, which can be harvested later and propagated to form new plants.

Though it is possible to grow new plants from the bulbils, it takes much longer than sowing cloves, about two or three years from planting to harvest.

The flowers and bulbils are edible as well, though it would take quite a bit of effort to peel and cook enough of the tiny bulbils to flavor a dish.

How to Grow

If you are already planning to grow garlic, you don’t need to do anything special to produce the tasty scapes as well.

It’s a two-for-one situation; grow healthy plants and you will wind up with long, beautiful scapes.

Check out this guide for everything you need to know to plant and grow a flourishing garlic crop.

Removing the scapes may even be good for the bulbs. Many gardeners believe doing so improves the main crop by redirecting energy to increasing the size of the bulb, and it doesn’t hurt that they are delicious.

And since they are ready several weeks before it is time to harvest the bulbs, you can increase your garlic season by a month or more!

Varieties to Select

Be sure to look for a hardneck variety (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) since softnecks don’t typically form scapes.

There are many varieties of hardnecks you can choose from, all of which will produce delicious scapes, so your best bet is to select whichever hardneck has the bulb type you most prefer.

There are other benefits to growing hardnecks as well.

They tend to have larger, easier to peel cloves than softnecks and are often more flavorful too. They are also much more cold hardy and can be grown all the way down to USDA Zone 1.

‘Chesnok Red’ is a variety of hardneck with beautiful purple stripes, easy-peeling large cloves, and especially tender scapes.

‘Chesnok Red’

You can purchase organic cloves for planting from Botanical Interests.

‘Music’ is another popular porcelain-type hardneck that produces large, spicy bulbs with a long storage capacity.

Porcelain types are a great choice in general as these hardnecks tend to feature large, flavorful, easy-to-peel cloves that store well for a long time.

‘Music’

‘Music’ cloves for planting are available from Botanical Interests. 

Harvest Tips

Scapes are ready to harvest about a month before the main crop, typically sometime between mid-May and mid-June, depending on your growing zone.

They are ready to pick once they have risen above the leaves and started to curl.

You can harvest just before or just after the first loop forms, but wait too long and they will start to toughen and become less palatable.

Harvest in the late morning when the weather is dry. Use a clean scissors or pruning shears to cut the stem as far down as you are able, being careful not to cut any of the leaves.

They may not all be ready at the same time, so be sure to make frequent trips to the garden over the course of a few weeks!

Storage and Preserving

Store them in the fridge until you are ready to use them. They should keep for up to three weeks if stored in an airtight zip-top bag.

Alternatively, you can keep them for a few days on the counter in a glass of cool water. Just make sure to change the water daily.

You can also freeze them for up to a year. Chop them up and freeze them raw.

To prevent clumping, spread them on a rimmed baking sheet and flash freeze first. After a couple of hours, move them to a freezer-safe container or bag for long term storage.

If you want to dry them, just chop them up into little pieces and place in a dehydrator for about eight hours. Once fully dried, you can store them in a sealed jar in your spice cabinet.

If you want to get more creative, you can also pickle them, ferment them, or use them to infuse oil or vinegar.

This summer at my farmers market stand I had several jars of pickled scapes for sale. Most people who came by had never heard of them, and I secretly hoped I wouldn’t sell many.

A family favorite, pickled scapes happen to be a frequent request of my three-year-old.

She has a unique palate for a toddler, but I’m right there with her on this one! They are particularly wonderful for pickling because they are so flavorful and maintain their crunch very well.

I love to pickle them in a white vinegar brine with dill and peppercorns, but you can use any pickling brine and spice combination you like.

If you need some inspiration, visit our sister site Foodal for some pickling ideas.

Cooking and Recipe Ideas

These long, swirly stems are seriously yummy. They taste just like the cloves, though a bit less spicy and a little grassy, somewhat like scallions or chives.

Just chop them up and cook them in any recipe that calls for garlic!

While the entire stem is edible, the flower bud on the end can be a bit tough, so you may choose to remove it prior to cooking.

A favorite of mine is to make pesto. This nutty, spicy sauce is perfect for summertime pasta or spread on a sandwich with tomatoes and mozzarella.

I usually make a big batch and freeze some in ice cube trays for when I want to spice up my winter.

Check out this recipe on Foodal for delicious garlic scape pesto with parmesan and almonds.

For a quick and savory summery side dish, just replace the cloves with scapes in this recipe for garlic asparagus amandine, also on Foodal.

It’s perfect if you have asparagus shooting up in the garden at about the same time!

There are really an unlimited number of fun and creative ways to use them! Throw them in a stir fry, sprinkle on top of a pizza, or toss them in a soup.

You can’t really go wrong adding them to any dish! Or cook them on their own for a wonderfully flavorful side.

Double the Fun

Double your garlic crop this year by using the scapes! Easy to harvest and oh so tasty, there is really no excuse for letting them go to waste.

What are your favorite uses for scapes? We would love to hear about your recipes and tips in the comments below.

For more on growing and harvesting great garlic, check out these articles next: