The tulip, Tulipa spp., is a spring-blooming bulb flower in the Liliaceae, or lily family. It has a waxy, cup-like flower available in every color except blue, a bare vertical stem, and fleshy green foliage that is sometimes variegated with red or white.
After blooming, the foliage feeds the bulb so it can store energy for next year’s flower.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
In this article, we zero in on nine adverse conditions that may cause tulip foliage to turn yellow prematurely, and how to avoid them.
Let’s begin with a summary of the elements needed for successful cultivation.
The normal life cycle of a tulip begins with sprouted green leaves and stems, followed by budding, flowering, the dropping of petals, and setting of seed.
After blooming, the foliage must remain attached so it can feed next year’s bulbs. When this is completed, it turns yellow, before turning brown and dying.
9 Reasons Why Tulip Foliage Turns Yellow
When a leaf turns yellow, the phenomenon is called “chlorosis.” It happens when there is a deficiency of chlorophyll, the green lifeblood of plants that absorbs sunlight and converts it to energy.
And while you may simply tolerate or remove the unsightly leaves, knowing the underlying cause or causes is essential to the health of both current and future plants.
The following are nine possible causes of tulip leaf chlorosis. Let’s look at how each may affect normally green leaves, and how the various factors may overlap in their occurrence.
1. Alkaline pH
One possibility is that your soil is more alkaline than the mildly acidic or neutral 6.0-7.0 pH that tulips prefer. Soil that is “too sweet” may adversely affect tulip development, and cause yellowing.
Without an inch of moisture per week from a combination of rainfall and supplemental watering, bulbs may begin to dry out beneath the soil. You may not have a clue – until the leaves start to turn yellow.
If you dig down next to a bulb and find the soil dusty, water immediately. Brittle roots and shrunken bulbs may be too far gone to revive, but it’s worth a try.
In cooler regions, this is unlikely to happen, unless there’s a rare and prolonged heatwave and dry spell with no supplemental watering.
For those growing in warmer regions, this is a little more likely in the springtime, especially if the bulbs are planted too shallowly, another possible cause we will discuss shortly.
3. Disease
Moisture and heat stress may leave bulbs vulnerable to disease. It may be bacterial, fungal, or viral, and may spread more quickly if bulbs are spaced too closely.
Close planting may create a humid environment conducive to fungal growth in particular.
In addition, sometimes the bulbs we buy harbor pathogens that don’t become evident until growth problems arise.
The disease category is a broad one that includes conditions such as bacterial soft rot, fungal Botrytis blight, or tulip breaking virus.
Damage may range from rotting at the bulb level to deformed and discolored leaves, rotting stems and leaves, and discolored and damaged petals.
Leaf yellowing that is accompanied by deformity, tissue softening, or wilting is likely disease-related, or the result of damage caused by disease-carrying pests.
Consult your local agricultural extension of a land grant university or horticultural society for aid in disease confirmation and possible treatment.
Remove and discard affected plants in the trash.
4. Inadequate Drainage
Poor soil drainage may cause even the right amount of water to pool.
Be sure to add sand or compost to your garden soil before planting tulips to ensure that water can pass through without ponding, or you may find that the roots and bulbs have rotted through – before you even notice the waterlogged, yellow leaves.
However, while not a likely culprit, plants that don’t get enough sunlight are likely to have leaves that are very pale green or yellow.
If your plants are completely shaded, as by a large shrub, for example, and you’re growing them as perennials, you may want to relocate them in the fall to a sunnier location.
Your garden journal can be a helpful tool here. Use it to track sun exposure in various sections of your garden throughout the year, and document how it changes based on shade cast by large trees and other plants when they leaf out in the spring and summer.
6. Nutrient Deficiency
Sometimes plants yield inferior results because they are not receiving proper nutrition. Tulips that are deficient in nitrogen may have yellow leaves.
This is a tricky call, because even a soil test cannot accurately measure the nitrogen in soil, as it can vary throughout the growing season.
If all else seems fine, you may try amending with a dose of all-purpose, well-balanced, slow-release fertilizer per package instructions each spring and fall.
7. Oversaturation
If there’s a heavy, late snowfall or spring rainy spell, or you provided more than one inch of water per week during the growing season, you may discover oversaturation at the bulb level that manifests itself above ground in the form of yellow leaves.
If the soil is soggy, it’s likely that there’s also a drainage issue.
You can try to salvage the plants by poking some deep holes into the garden soil at least four inches away from their perimeter. Mix a little sand or compost in to loosen things up, and hope for the best.
8. Pests
While tulips are not particularly prone to pests, bulbs that are stressed by excess heat or moisture may become vulnerable to infestation, especially by stealthy underground nematodes.
These soilborne, microscopic, worm-like organisms feed on bulbs until they destroy them.
One to watch for is the stem and bulb eelworm, Ditylenchus dipsaci. The first visible signs of trouble include leaves that are deformed, stunted, yellow on top, and bumpy underneath.
According to experts at the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), this pest spells disaster. Affected plants must be destroyed and may not go in the compost heap, as this may facilitate further spread around the garden.
Commercial growers use a complex hot water treatment to eradicate it, but there is no feasible home cure.
The RHS recommends purchasing high quality bulbs and practicing hygienic garden practices as preventative actions. Avoid planting in affected areas for three years.
9. Shallow Planting
When bulbs are planted to the recommended four- to six-inch depth, they are less likely to succumb to heat and dryness.
Folks in warmer regions swear by planting even deeper than recommended, to a depth of eight inches, so bulbs are well protected from excessive heat.
However, sometimes even with best practices, bulbs end up in shallow placements.
This may happen because you inadvertently disturbed them when you planted other items in the same bed.
Or the activity of squirrels or voles may loosen them.
The alternating wet and dry conditions of winter can also cause them to rise up a bit, especially if they were newly planted the previous fall.
Take care to plant as recommended. Walk the garden in late winter. If you see that bulbs have risen to the surface, cover them with garden soil or compost before winter dormancy breaks.
Understanding and Adjusting
To recap, there are nine likely causes of tulip leaf yellowing that may be avoided with diligent cultivation.
By the time you notice yellow leaves, trouble may be well underway due to an overly alkaline soil pH, dehydration, disease, inadequate drainage, insufficient sunlight, a nutrient deficiency, pests, or shallow planting.
There may be one issue to blame, or multiple conditions working in concert. And any damage already incurred in the current season is likely irreparable.
However, an evaluation of your gardening practices, and consideration of each possible reason for the yellowing of leaves, gives you the opportunity to make adjustments.
The following actions are likely to result in a better experience next season:
Monitor watering to ensure that planting soil is neither dried out nor oversaturated.
Plant per the suggested depth and spacing.
Contact your local extension at the first sign of plant deformity, discoloration, and wilting not reasonably attributable to other causative factors, to determine what diseases or pests may be present. Follow recommended courses of action.
Amend the soil with sand or compost to ensure proper drainage.
Fertilize as recommended by a soil test, to provide adequate and appropriate nutrition.
With an understanding of potential issues and working to make adjustments as needed, you can become an expert grower of tulips, well-versed and experienced in growing beautiful blooms year after year.
Every gardener out there can benefit from having floating row covers on hand. They’re lightweight, easy to store, and inexpensive. And their uses go well beyond frost protection.
Don’t be discouraged if you aren’t up for building a mini hoop house either.
In many cases, garden fabric can be draped directly on top of plants and secured around the perimeter. So the effort involved is often minimal.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Keep reading for a short list of all the ways you can use floating row covers in your garden, how to pick the right types for your needs, and some tips to avoid possible pitfalls.
What Is It?
Floating row cover, also known as garden fabric, is a white, thin, light piece of material used to shelter crops for a number of reasons, the most well-known being for frost protection.
It’s typically made from polypropylene or polyester and doesn’t absorb moisture. It does, however, allow rainfall and sunlight to pass through. One piece can last multiple seasons, depending on how extensively it’s used each year.
Why Bother?
1. Protect Warm Season Crops Against Frost
I don’t know a single gardener who doesn’t wish for more time every season. Well, garden fabric can actually allow you more time to grow warm season crops.
Garden fabric varies in weight and density. To keep plants protected from frost, you’ll need a heavier weight material that is specifically created to trap heat.
Gardens protected with heavy weight floating row covers are typically 4 to 10°F warmer during freezing temperatures.
For short-term frost protection, all you need to do is loosely lay material over the plants that are at risk and secure it around the perimeter with rocks or soil.
Knowing you have this option will relieve stress and give you the opportunity to set out heat loving, long season edibles, like tomatoes, bell peppers, and hot peppers, earlier than usual. Peppers especially need warmer temperatures to thrive, so employing garden fabric can really make a difference.
If allowing plants to grow under cover for any length of time, it’s best to build a support structure to increase airflow, allow for plenty of room to grow, and avoid any damage that may be caused to the plants by unsupported fabric beating in the wind.
Also, you’ll want to make sure you use a fabric that still allows plenty of light through.
Ideally, they will allow for plenty of air circulation, but still block a good amount of sunlight. Garden fabric is a great option if the weather starts heating up early in the spring, or at the end of summer when starting a fall crop.
Also keep in mind that if you are in a region that is exceptionally hot or cold, garden fabric has the potential to allow you to grow edibles you otherwise couldn’t grow.
You can also use heavyweight row covers through the winter to grow some hard frost tolerant vegetables, like cabbage and kale. This works especially well if winters are usually mild in your area.
3. Keep Pests Out
A lightweight floating row cover can change everything if insects, rabbits, or deer often feast on your plants. Look for ones that are marketed for this purpose.
If you will be leaving covers on throughout the season, it’s important to make sure they aren’t heavyweight and meant to trap heat.
Leafy vegetables, root vegetables, and self-pollinating edibles can be grown under the protection of garden fabric from seed to harvest. Bush beans are a great candidate for this.
In order to effectively keep pests out, it’s important to secure material well with staples or soil.
4. Reduce Transplant Shock
Seedlings grown indoors often can’t handle the stress of outdoor weather right away.
So, seedlings are typically hardened off, which means they are slowly introduced to the outdoors before being transplanted into the garden.
Instead of hardening plants off by setting seedlings out for extended periods of time over the course of several days, you could place plants under the protection of a lightweight row cover instead. This will cut the intensity of the weather and give plants a chance to become established.
Check Plants Often
If using row covers for an extended period of time, there are several issues to keep in mind:
First, many insects overwinter in the soil, so be mindful of any insect issues that you have had in the past, so you know where to look.
As such, crop rotation is especially important if using row covers for protection against insect pests.
The last thing you want to do is to trap pests that emerge from the soil in with your edibles! So be very vigilant. If you notice any insect damage while plants are sheltered, investigate immediately.
Also, for plants that require insect pollinators, like cucurbits, you’ll have to open tunnels regularly or hand pollinate.
One of the most challenging aspects of using garden fabric is that you can’t see what’s going on in your garden unless you take the time to investigate. Regularly assessing moisture levels, temperature, air circulation, and weed growth will save you disappointment later.
If the microenvironment created by the row cover ever becomes too humid or hot, just open the ends to allow for more air circulation.
Also, weeds will love the protected environment, so regular weeding is necessary. On the plus side, this will give you a chance to check in on your garden beds regularly.
Getting the Most Out of Floating Row Covers
To increase frost protection by 2°F to 4°F, use two layers of material. Any more than two layers, however, and not enough sunlight will reach the plants.
Although you can lay fabric directly over plants, consider building a permanent structure. This will allow you to use the material in a number of ways and allow for easy installation.
If stapling material to the ground, double up fabric to prevent ripping.
Store covers when dry and away from the ground, as rodents may find this makes a cozy bed.
Give Yourself the Option
It doesn’t take much to purchase a few yards of floating row cover. So what are you waiting for?
When temperatures suddenly spike in April and threaten your lettuce crop, or dip and stress out your peppers, you’ll be thankful you made the extra investment.
Do you have experience using floating row covers? What are your thoughts? We would love to hear about what worked and what didn’t. Let us know in the comments!
If you enjoyed this guide, then some of our others may provide some more useful tips:
Succulents exist in a vast array, their form and color ranging from tiny green bulbous leaves on a string-like stem to rosy-toned stumps that appear to be living rocks.
It can be hard to believe that agaves belong to this category as well.
At maturity, some may appear to be more closely related to a large variety of cacti rather than something like hens and chicks. But both of these are varieties of succulents, after all.
Because of their range in size and the means by which they self-propagate, Agave may be one of the most enthralling succulent genera in the world.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
So, without further ado, let’s talk about agaves, and how to plant, propagate, and care for them in your landscape for decades of enjoyment.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Agave is one of those plants that makes you pull the car over when you spot it in someone’s yard.
Not only is it stunning in form and size, but if you happen to catch it in bloom, you may feel that you’ve stumbled across a true mystery.
What Is Agave?
There are approximately 270 known species in the Agave genus. Some of these are used to produce food products, such as agave syrup, or alcohol, such as mezcal and tequila.
Others, such as the sisal plant, A. sisalana, are grown primarily for fiber, used to make rope and a variety of other products.
These plants belong to the Asparagaceae family. If that sounds familiar, it may be because it’s the same family that common garden variety asparagus belongs to.
There are more than 2,500 different species in this family, ranging from bluebells to snake plants.
If you’re fortunate enough to witness an agave in bloom, you’ll notice the relationship to asparagus, as the flowering stalk bears a strong resemblance.
Most species are suitable for cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 11, and generally thrive in dry climates.
These herbaceous, rosette-forming succulents can be compact at just 12 to 18 inches, or reach 10 to 12 feet in height, with a similar spread.
They’re cactus-like in structure, with sharp, hook-like spines along the perimeter of the leaves on all but a few species.
There are approximately 40 species that are native to the United States, most of which grow in the western and southwestern desert regions.
Some species, such as the foxtail agave, A. attenuata, grow on stalk-shaped, semi-woody stems like something from a Dr. Seuss book.
Many of these, such as A. deserti, which was found and named by botanist George Engelmann who discovered it in southern California in the mid 1830s, have become common additions in xeriscape plantings. This species is frequently chosen because of its tendency to produce offsets that fill in wide areas.
The American agave, A. americana, thrives in regions with high heat throughout most of the year where there is little annual rainfall, such as in parts of Arizona, California, and southern Florida.
This species is also known to tolerate subtropical and tropical climates, provided that it is growing in soil that does not hold water. Many other species can thrive in this type of climate as well.
Some of the most common agave species grown in the home landscape include foxtail (A.attenuata), which is one of few without marginal teeth; Caribbean (A. angustifolia), which has slender leaves tipped in silver-white; blue (A. tequilana) from which tequila is made; and whale’s tongue agave (A. ovatifolia), which has a distinctly rounded leaf shape.
Other species commonly grown as landscape plants include A. macroacantha, the black-spined agave; A. parryi var. truncata, the artichoke agave; A. potatorum, aka butterfly agave; A. lopantha, the center stripe or thorn-crested agave; and A. victoriae-reginae, or Queen Victoria agave.
Queen Victoria agave.
One of the most distinct oddities of this genus is the octopus agave, A. vilmoriniana. This species is often chosen as a focal piece, with leaves that spiral and twist like some sort of land-mired sea creature.
Octopus agave.
Another species that stands out is A. geminiflora, the twin-flowered agave, which grows as a rounded mass of slender leaves.
The majority of agave species are very drought tolerant, although some are native to grasslands or mountainous regions where they thrive in average precipitation, and even somewhat cooler temperatures.
They also tend to thrive even in poor soil, and can tolerate some salt as well, making them suitable for coastal plantings.
All agave species are monocarpic which means the plants send up one huge flower stalk in their lifetime, which then blossoms for several weeks to a few months, after which the plant dies.
Another common characteristic that they share is the presence of crystals known as oxalates in their leaves and stems, which are toxic to cats and dogs – sometimes fatally so if enough are ingested.
Keep an eye on your pets if you plant these in your landscape.
Cultivation and History
Most agaves are native to Central and South America. Some were first documented as being used by the Olmec people, who processed and fermented the juice and pulp of the plant to make an alcoholic beverage known as pulque.
The indigenous people of Central and South America continued to cultivate the plants for this purpose, and also used some species to create a variety of medicinal treatments.
The Aztecs revered the blue agave to such a degree that they regarded their goddess Mayahuel as the personification of the plant.
Harvesting agave to make tequila.
In Mexico, they’re still widely cultivated in Jalisco, where mature plants are pruned down to the central stem and processed to extract their sap, which is then fermented into alcohol.
Agaves, particularly A. americana, are sometimes referred to as “century plants” due to an apocryphal belief that they bloomed only once every hundred years.
In reality, the plants can survive for up to 25 years in ideal conditions, with some rare specimens living considerably longer, and most bloom when they are between 10 and 20 years of age.
Propagation
Most varieties self-propagate in two ways, by producing pups and seed.
Mature plants send out runners underground that produce sprouts known as pups. These can be found close to the parent plant in most cases, and will form a root system of their own. The pups make excellent transplants.
As mentioned, agave plants send up just one blooming stalk in their lifetime.
This stalk can be modest at eight to 12 feet in height, or it may tower over the landscape, reaching heights of 30 feet, with a thick, woody stem that resembles a massive asparagus.
This stalk produces clusters of blooms that branch out and open over a period of a few weeks to several months, depending on the species.
The blooms will eventually form seed pods and the stalk will die off as the parent plant can no longer support it. When the stalk dies, the parent plant typically begins to decline rapidly as well.
Some species may also self-propagate by producing bulbils, or tiny plantlets that form on the flower stalk.
When they’re mature, they’ll fall off and take root on the ground. They can also be collected and propagated at home.
If you’re lucky enough to witness the bloom of an agave, take lots of pictures, and be prepared to collect the resulting seeds or bulbils!
Perhaps you’ve got a plant that hasn’t decided it’s time to bloom yet. If that’s the case, there are a few other methods to propagate it – but if you ask me, they’re not nearly as cool!
From Seed
Agave seeds are triangular and flat, resembling those of a lily or yucca. Typically, if you’ve collected them from a pod that has opened on its own, they’ll be mature and deep black in color.
The size of the seed typically correlates to the size of the plant, with smaller plants producing smaller seeds.
In early spring, fill pots or a seed-starting flat with one part perlite or sand to one part compost or coconut coir. Avoid using soil that contains manure as it may prevent germination.
Any potting medium you use should be sterilized by spreading it on a baking sheet and baking it in the oven at 350°F for 10 to 15 minutes.
Be sure that any containers you choose are clean and that they have good drainage. Flat, shallow trays or pots are preferred over deep pots.
You may decide to purchase a blend specifically for growing succulents instead of formulating your own, such as The Valley Garden’s Organic Potting Soil for Cactus and Succulents, available from Amazon in a two-quart package.
I strongly recommend sterilizing purchased potting mediums as well, just to err on the side of caution, as fungi, other types of pathogens, and insect eggs and larvae are commonly present in bagged soil, unless it is specifically labelled as sterile.
Scatter the seeds about one-half to one inch apart on top of the soil, and cover them lightly with sand to hold them in place.
They do not need to be covered, but they’re very lightweight and can shift when water is poured over them. They shouldn’t be buried more than about one-eighth of an inch deep, as they need light to germinate.
Place the pots or tray in a larger container or in your sink with the drain stopped. Fill the larger container or sink with water to a depth that covers half of the height of the potting container. Allow the soil to absorb water just until the surface feels slightly damp.
You may choose to water traditionally, but avoid pouring water directly over the seeds. Once the soil has been moistened, cover the pots or tray with plastic wrap or a humidity dome, and place it in a location where overnight temperatures are consistently between 65 and 75°F.
A heat mat set between 70 and 75°F can also be used to keep the soil warm, as warmth will aid in germination.
If you’re looking for a mat that works well with several pots or a seed flat, try this one, that’s available from the Vivosun store via Amazon.
If you’re able to place the seeds outdoors in a sheltered location with partial shade instead, this will alleviate the need for completing the added step of hardening off later.
Droplets of moisture that collect on the plastic can drip back into the soil without inhibiting germination, but if the plastic collects a lot of water, you can open one corner to vent it.
In about three to four weeks when the seeds sprout, move them to a location that is sunny, but not in harsh direct sunlight. If you haven’t already vented the plastic, be sure to do so once they’ve sprouted.
Bottom water or mist the plants and soil well once or twice per week, depending on how quickly the soil dries out. If you’re gardening in an arid environment, you may need to mist more often. Keep the soil watered so it is slightly moist to the touch for the first few months.
Seedlings benefit from a diluted application of half-strength 20-20-20 (NPK) general plant fertilizer between their first and third month.
Allow the seedlings to grow until each one has at least three true leaves. It can take four to six months or more for them to reach this stage. When they do, you can begin to move them into direct sunlight.
Start by bringing them outdoors for a few hours in partial shade, and gradually increase the time and sun exposure.
After the seedlings have been acclimated to the outdoors, you can move them to their permanent location. Choose a spot with good drainage, and at least eight hours of sunlight per day.
Partial shade for part of the day is acceptable if your region experiences high heat, with temperatures above 80°F for most of the day.
Prepare a hole that is as wide and deep as the root system of the seedling; usually, a finger-poke size is sufficient.
Be sure that the hole is at least the distance of the mature plant’s spread away from structures or other plants unless you’re willing to relocate them as the agave grows to its mature size.
Note that agavesdo not generally transplant well, as they develop a large root system with a taproot. It’s best to plant them in a permanent location.
Place the seedling in the hole, press the soil around the base of the plant, and water well to settle it in.
From Pups
Most agaves readily self-propagate by sending runners out underground. These runners will develop new plants, sometimes directly under the parent plant or just a short distance away.
Photo by Kelly Spicer.
The plants that sprout from the runners are known as pups, and after they form three to four leaves, they can be lifted and transplanted.
Any time when you plan to handle the leaves of the plant, be sure to wear thick gloves or use tongs to avoid being punctured by the extremely sharp tooth-like spikes along the margins of the leaves.
Note that there may be spikes along the central margin on the underside as well, unless you have a variety that is spineless.
Grasp the pup gently with your gloved hand, or with tongs, and use caution not to apply too much pressure – you don’t want to damage the plant or be injured. Agave leaves are surprisingly tough, but they can be punctured or bruised.
Photo by Kelly Spicer.
Gently pull the pup upward. If there is resistance, use a rocking motion back and forth, or a trowel to pry the soil up until the roots are exposed. If the pup is still attached to a runner, use a set of sharp garden shears to snip it free.
The pup can be transplanted to a pot or to a permanent location in the ground. If you plan to pot it, use a container that has good drainage and that is just slightly deeper than the existing root system.
From Bulbils
Bulbils can be transplanted in much the same way as pups. They sometimes develop aerial roots, but they may fall off the blooming stalk without roots as well.
Use a potting mix that is specially formulated for cacti and succulents, or mix one part perlite or sand with one part coconut coir or compost.
Fill the container and make a hole large enough to accommodate the root system, or seat the bulbil into the hole just below the soil surface.
Set the plant in the hole and press the soil around it, and then water it to settle. Place it in a location where it will receive at least eight hours of sunlight per day.
Note that it can take anywhere from several weeks to several months before the root system develops. Plants should be three to four inches in height prior to transplanting.
If you’re not sure whether the bulbil has taken root, you can give it a gentle pull – there should be some resistance, which indicates that roots have developed.
Bulbils that have developed aerial roots while still attached to the flower stalk, or ones that have detached and fallen to the ground, can be planted directly in-ground. They sometimes root on their own once they drop to the ground as well.
If they’ve already rooted in the ground and you want to relocate them, you can carefully dig them up in the same way you would when removing pups.
Again, making a hole that is about the same size as the root system is sufficient. Seat the plant and press the soil around it, then water to settle it in.
Transplanting Nursery Plants
I recommend buying bare root plants whenever possible. There are several advantages to this as opposed to buying potted plants.
First, you’ll be able to inspect the root system to make sure it’s healthy and free of fungi or root rot.
You’ll avoid transplanting pathogens, insect larvae, and eggs, if there isn’t any soil present to worry about.
You can also give the plants an immediate boost by planting them in fresh, healthy soil, where they can become established without suffering in the poor conditions they might experience in a grower’s pot.
To transplant a bare root or store-bought plant in a nursery pot, choose a site with good drainage where your plant will receive eight hours of sunlight per day, unless you live in a region where the light is coupled with consistently high temperatures throughout the day and night.
In high heat and harsh sun, provide partial shade.
Make a hole the same width and depth as the root system with a small mound of soil at the bottom for bare root plants. After inspecting roots and soil to be sure they are healthy, carefully remove the plant from its pot, and set it in the hole.
Spread the roots of a bare root plant over the mound and backfill around them with loose soil. Position the plant upright and hold it there as you backfill around the roots.
Press the soil around the base of the plant with your hands to secure it in place, and water it well to settle in. Be sure to provide one inch of water per week until the plant has become well established.
How to Grow
Like most succulents, agaves are super simple to grow.
They only have a few specific needs, and if you’re planting in an area where climate and weather conditions are ideal for your selected variety, you can pretty easily just let them do their own thing.
Spiny plants always remind me that they prefer to be left alone.
Watch out for your pets if these plants are part of your landscaping. It’s best not to let the dog help to water the spikey varieties, as the spikes on the leaf tips can be dangerous.
Agave provides excellent natural habitat for lizards, frogs, and snakes in some regions as well, so if you’re averse to hosting animals such as these near your home, you may want to consider planting something else.
Otherwise, they’ll make a wonderful addition for supporting local wildlife!
In regions that are semi-arid to arid where temperatures are typically high, such as in Zones 8 to 11, agave species that are heat and drought tolerant can be planted in the ground and left there year round.
While they could be planted in containers, I don’t recommend it for large varieties such as the American or blue agave (A. tequilana), as over time they’ll outgrow almost any container and need to be repotted frequently – which can be rather difficult with a plant this large and pokey!
Container planting works well for smaller species and cultivars. Use a container that is three to four inches larger than the root system of the plant, and make sure the pot has good drainage. Fill it with a mix of one part perlite or sand to one part coconut coir or compost.
We cover this in more detail in our guide to growing agave in containers. (coming soon!)
The root system of some of the larger types can be expansive, reaching several feet deep and just as wide, as these plants are well adapted to seek water in regions where rainfall is scarce.
They can also develop a large taproot as I mentioned before, and this means they do not transplant well.
Choose a site where the plant will have room to grow, and remember that some varieties can reach heights of six feet at a minimum, and sometimes as much as 12 feet, with a similar spread.
If a plant of that size eventually blooms, you’ll essentially be dealing with a tree-like, 15-foot (or taller!) blooming asparagus a la Jack and the Beanstalk, so be prepared.
The soil at the planting site should have good drainage with a mildly acidic pH of 6.0 to 6.8. These plants absolutely will not tolerate wet soil, and will protest by quickly becoming unhealthy or dying off.
Parts of the landscape that are on a slight incline make good potential planting sites, as do rock gardens – just be sure that the ground around the planting area has a flat basin to absorb water.
During the spring and summer, for immature plants that are not yet established, you should offer about one inch of water per week in the absence of rainfall, or if the soil is bone dry beyond the top four to six inches.
In late fall through winter, reduce the amount of water that you provide to one inch every two to three weeks.
Signs that plants are overwatered include yellow discoloration, wilting or shriveling, weakening of the central stem that causes the central portion of leaves to break off, and rotting near the base or in the roots of the plant.
Overwatering can also invite disease and pest infestation, so be sure to avoid it as much as possible.
Conversely, if your region consistently experiences severe drought, such as dry spells without rain for more than four months, you should plan to water young plants every week.
Once plants are one to two years old, they’re capable of tolerating longer periods without water – sometimes for several months.
You might also add a one- to two-inch-deep layer of pulverized stone or pea gravel over the area of the root system to help retain some moisture between watering.
It’s best to avoid using shredded bark mulch to retain moisture around these plants, as it can keep the underlying soil too wet.
In places where the water table is very close to the surface, such as in Florida, you’ll want to mound the soil up to provide more space for the plant to root with reduced impact from the available groundwater.
These succulents need at least eight hours of sunlight per day, but if your region experiences consistent daytime temperatures of 80°F or higher, and above 60°F overnight, you’ll want to provide some shade for young plants.
Planting near a tree with sparse foliage, such as a palm, will provide dappled sunlight and sufficient shade.
As agaves mature, they can generally tolerate more direct sun, but they’re still susceptible to sunscald when harsh sun is combined with high temperatures.
If you notice that your plant is producing runners and pups, you can gather and relocate them to avoid crowding, or give them away to friends and family. One healthy parent can produce dozens of pups in its lifetime.
Most outdoor agave plants do not need fertilizer unless they’re in their early growth stages, or if the soil they’re growing in is mostly sand or very rocky.
In their native environment, agaves receive minerals from the soil such as iron, manganese, and zinc, which are important for plant growth.
If your soil is mineral-deficient – which can be ascertained through soil testing – you can add liquid fertilizer, such as Organic Succulent & Cactus Plant Food by The Grow Co, available via Amazon, once a month in the spring and summer.
Follow the instructions on the package for the size and age of your plant to avoid over-application.
And avoid using fertilizer on mature plants that is high in nitrogen, as this will encourage fast growth that can lead to earlier blooming – a mistake since these plants die after they bloom.
Growing Tips
Most agaves grow best in semi-arid to arid regions where they will not receive too much water from rainfall.
Always allow adequate spacing and keep the mature dimensions of your selected species or cultivar in mind.
Provide plants under 1 year old with 1 inch of water per week and partial shade if your region experiences consistently high heat and low rainfall.
Watch for the development of pups, and transplant them as needed to prevent overcrowding around the parent.
Pruning and Maintenance
In zones that experience high heat and harsh sunlight, such as in the southernmost third of the United States, or the deserts of Nevada and California, you may see some leaves turning gray or silver from sun damage.
Leaves that are damaged should be cut away, but again, use caution when handling this spiky plant, and always avoid pruning more than is absolutely necessary.
Excessive pruning can cause stress and lead to dieback, and open wounds may provide an entryway for disease pathogens.
Use a sharp, sanitized garden knife to cut damaged leaves off at the base where they attach to the central stem, and allow the cut to callus over. A damaged plant may send out runners in response to stress.
If your plant has suffered from disease or pest damage, you may also need to cut off damaged leaves to prevent further spread.
See the pests and disease section below for information on identifying and mitigating these concerns.
Species and Cultivars to Select
There are so many species and cultivars to choose from that it can be a challenge to decide, but a good place to start is to narrow down the list based on your regional climate and Hardiness Zone.
Some agaves need a hot, arid climate to grow best while others thrive in more moderate climates.
Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
American
American agave, A. americana, features blue-green leaves with sharp spines on their tips and along the outer edges.
Growing to a mature height of four to six feet and a width of eight to 10 feet, this century plant makes a dramatic impact in the landscape in Zones 7 to 11.
This variety is a hybrid cross between A. ocuhui and A. attenuata. The result is a compact plant, measuring one to two feet in height with a two- to three-foot spread.
The flowering stalk it will eventually produce can be eight to 10 feet in height.
The leaves are chalky blue-green with a red-orange or reddish-purple tipped leaf margin that has short teeth. This variety fits well into a landscaped bed or as a border planting.
You’ll need to allow space for its massive six- to 12-foot height and equal spread, and keep the potential height of the bloom stalk in mind – these sometimes grow up to 30 feet!
There are fortunately few animals that are brave enough to munch on these spiky plants, and just as few maladies that commonly afflict agaves. Most are easily avoidable when you take the proper precautions ahead of time.
Herbivores
While deer will typically steer clear of most agaves, they may decide that it’s worth the trouble to munch on a leaf or two if there is nothing else around to eat.
Aside from deer, wild burros and goats that live in desert regions may also nibble on agave plants from time to time. Whether they’re growing wild or planted in your yard doesn’t really matter to them, but the plants are unfortunately toxic to these animals, and ingestion may lead to death.
To avoid browsing, plant your agave in an area where you can limit access, such as behind a fence, so they’re out of reach.
Insects
There is only one insect of real concern that targets various species of agave, but it’s a nuisance if it does infest your plants.
Sometimes referred to as the agave snout weevil or the sisal weevil, Scyphophorus acupunctatus is an insect that is known to feed on agave and yucca plants.
These beetles are half an inch long, with snout-like faces. These snouts contains mouthparts that they use to puncture plant leaves and suck out the fluid inside.
They’re generally brownish-black or gray-black, with a dull tone that helps them to blend into their surroundings.
The female of the species will bore a pencil-sized hole into the central stem of a plant at the base, and lay their eggs inside in the springtime.
Small yellow-brown grubs hatch within a few weeks, feeding on the interior of the plant, going mostly undetected until they pupate.
It’s most common to find weevils in plants that are beginning the blooming process, but they can sometimes be spread via the soil in the nursery pots.
Agave plants that are newly or improperly planted or overwatered may be stressed, and this makes them more susceptible to infestation.
Signs of infestation include damage to leaves at the base, near the central stem; wrinkling or wilting leaves starting from the bottom of the plant and moving up; and rotten areas along the core.
If the damage is severe, the entire plant may become loose in the ground and fall over, or it may be pulled up easily.
Because these beetles breach the surface of plants, disease pathogens can also enter, leading to potential fungal infection and rapid decay.
When the adults emerge, they tend to venture to other surrounding plants, and can colonize several in a matter of days.
It can be tough to control a snout weevil infestation, but applying neem oil or insecticidal soap in early spring and again at the beginning of summer can keep them off of your plants, and kill any that are already present.
Grubs or adults that are visible can be removed by hand and dropped into a bucket of soapy water to dispatch them.
It’s best to leave a wide berth between plants as a preventive measure, as a tightly clustered plantings can be colonized and ravaged quickly.
This is another reason why it’s a good idea to relocate pups that develop – it may save them from being infested.
Plants that show signs of a serious infestation should be removed to avoid spreading the pests to neighbors.
While there are chemical insecticides available that may aid in control, they can affect pollinators that might approach the blooms. Their use should be avoided if your plant is preparing to bloom.
Disease
Just as with pest infestation, agave is relatively unbothered by disease. There are only two common diseases that may cause enough damage to note.
Anthracnose
Agaves can suffer from anthracnose, a disease caused by Colletotrichum fungi. This is a common malady that can befall many plants, from houseplants to mature trees.
Also known as black spot, anthracnose presents in agave plants as sunken spots that start off yellow or brown and eventually turn black as the fungus causes severe decay.
It’s more likely to show up and can cause damage more quickly on new growth and young plants than on mature ones.
Fungal spores are spread through water, so overhead watering through spray irrigation or via heavy rainfall can distribute them. Soil with poor drainage can also harbor and spread spores, especially during periods of heavy rain with splashing.
If signs of infection are only present on a couple of leaves, you can cut them off using a sharp knife, and destroy or dispose of them away from other plants. Be sure to disinfect the knife between cuts and after pruning.
If you’ve caught the signs of infection early on, it may be worth applying a fungicide to prevent the rest of the plant from falling victim.
While copper-based fungicides can be applied to stop the spread, they tend to build up in the soil after multiple applications and can harm beneficial insects that live there.
If you’re seeing signs of widespread anthracnose on your agave plant, it may be too late for fungicides to work.
In that case, it’s best to remove and destroy affected plants to avoid spreading the disease to the rest of your garden or landscape.
Crown and Root Rot
Crown rot and root rot are both caused by bacterial or fungal pathogens, such as Fusarium oxysporum and F. solani, or Phytophthora cinnamomi, which take up residence and spread in warm, wet conditions, .
Fungal spores and bacteria can be spread through water, infected seed, or the introduction of an infected plant such as one purchased from a nursery.
Pruning infected plants during rainy periods, and infected seeds introduced by animals and birds, can also introduce and spread fungal spores and bacteria.
Signs of crown and root rot on an agave present as rotten, spongy leaf junctures; decaying central stem or leaf tips; wilting and shriveling; and rapid decomposition.
Root rot can be more easily dealt with than crown rot. First and foremost, be sure to let the soil dry out between watering as this can kill fungi or bacteria that are present in the soil.
If your agave is of a manageable size, you can dig it up, let the roots dry out, and trim away the sections that show signs of rot, such as brown or red coloration, or a slimy texture.
Spray both the roots and the hole you removed the plant from with a biological fungicide, such as Cease, available from Arbico Organics. Allow the roots to dry out again.
This product contains Bacillus subtilis, a species of bacteria that controls a variety of different plant pathogens.
You might consider moving the plant to a different location with better drainage to avoid reinfection.
In most cases, if crown rot is widespread, you will need to remove and destroy the plant. It’s unlikely to recover from serious damage.
Best Uses
Agaves are perfect for creating natural, environmentally appropriate planting beds in desert regions.
They blend well with other plants that are suitable for xeriscaping, or landscaping in an arid environment by using plants that do not need supplemental irrigation.
For more information on planning a waterwise garden, see our guide to xeriscaping your yard for efficiency and aesthetics.
If you’ve got a very sandy yard with lots of open space, you might consider planting an agave as the focal point, or grouping several end to end near the property line to form a barrier that few people would attempt to cross – like a sharp living fence.
In regions where palm trees thrive, agaves make the perfect companion plants, as they grow well in the mottled shade from the palms.
A stunning bed can be created with palm trees, a few well placed agaves, some bougainvillea, lavender, and sage, blending textures, forms, and colors that complement each other.
Group the plants around Adirondack chairs and a chiminea for a serene retreat adjacent to your deck or patio.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Perennial evergreen succulent
Flower/Foliage Color:
Yellow to yellow-green/Green to blue-green, variegated
If you have a large, dry expanse of yard that you need to break up with some living landscaping, agave is the perfect choice. It’s a stunning conversational piece as it grows, sometimes towering overhead like something from the time when dinosaurs roamed the Earth.
Creating a bed with these plants is easy and fun, offering years of enjoyment with little maintenance required. As a bonus, if you’re a nature lover, you’ll see lots of small creatures using the huge, flat leaves for shelter and shade.
If you happen to catch these plants when they’re in bloom, be sure to gather the seeds afterwards to start more and continue the cycle, or transplant the bulbils into new locations in the garden.
Have you had the opportunity to see an agave in bloom? Tell us about it in the comments below, and share some pictures if you’ve got them – we would love to see them!
And if you’re interested in more drought tolerant plants for your waterwise garden, have a look at these articles next:
From the Greek korydalis, a crested lark, a reference to the shape of the flowers (Fumariaceae). Hardy annuals and perennials, widely distributed throughout the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.
Perennial species cultivated
C allenii, 3-4 inches, pink and white flowers, spring.
C. cashmeriana, 6 inches, blue flowers, spring.
C. cheilanthifolia, 10 inches, yellow flowers, summer.
C. halleri (syn. C. solida), 6 inches, purple flowers, spring, tuberous-rooted, native plant.
C. lutea, 1 foot, yellow flowers, spring to autumn, native plant.
C.nobilis, 1 foot,. yellow flowers, early summer.
C. thalictrifolia, 1 foot, yellow flowers, summer.
C. wilsonii, 9 inches, yellow flowers, early summer.
Annual
C. sempervirens (syn. C. glauca), 1 feet, pale pink to purple flowers, summer.
Cultivation These plants thrive in ordinary soil in well-drained, sunny positions. Ledges, nooks and crannies in rock gardens and walls are very suitable, as well as borders. Plant perennials in March. Propagate annual species by seed sown in situ during April; perennials by seed at the same period, or by division after flowering; tuberous rooted species by offsets in March.
Here’s a general rule of thumb in the gardening world:
Most plants need around 1 inch of water every week.
While this sounds simple enough, it’s hard to know what 1 inch of water looks like. And without a rain gauge, you really have no way of knowing.
A rain gauge allows you to keep track of precipitation and irrigation output, so as not to overwater – which is not only wasteful, but could encourage disease and cause harm to plants.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
There are some fancy models on the market, but for the home gardener, high-tech equipment isn’t really necessary.
In fact, you can even make your own if you want. Here’s everything we’ll cover in this article:
With this basic tool, you’ll be better able to care for your garden and spend less time watering unnecessarily.
What Is a Rain Gauge?
It’s a tool used to measure precipitation, most often rain. There are several types, but as a gardener, you will just need a standard gauge.
The basic model is a graduated cylinder that captures rainfall. It’s marked with measurements, usually inches in the US.
When the rain stops, you just read the cylinder much like you would a measuring cup. It’s that easy.
Other models include the tipping bucket, weighing gauge, and optical gauge. All of these can do more than the standard version, and are used to gain more sophisticated readings.
For instance, the tipping bucket can measure the rate of precipitation.
The weighing gauge measures precipitation mass via a sensor. Because it uses mass, it can measure snowfall and hail too.
And the optical gauge is crazy advanced and detects optical irregularities. I’ll be honest – this one is over my head and far beyond what is necessary for gardening purposes.
Let’s keep things simple!
How to Use It (and Where to Buy)
Rain gauges are great for measuring not only rainfall, but also water put out by sprinkler systems.
There are several different versions of the standard models, from more expensive ones geared towards professionals to very basic ones that you just stick in the ground.
If you choose one to stick directly into the ground, keep in mind you may get some splashback that could skew the reading.
Also, leaves from any plants overhead can block rain from reaching the cylinder, or even drip moisture from their leaves into the cylinder, throwing off your reading.
Because of these factors, put the gauge a little ways off the ground and in an open area to ensure a more accurate reading.
The model that I have is bolted to my deck. It’s in a spot that is easy to see right when I walk out of my door, so I don’t have to go out of my way to check it.
Decorative options are even available, like this decorative frog, available from Plow & Hearth, to add a touch of whimsy to the landscape.
Once the sky clears, I check it, take a mental note, and dump it into a plant. That’s it.
If it has a minimum of 1 inch of water in it, I don’t worry about my perennials that week. And honestly, I don’t worry about my perennials anyway unless it has been dry for at least a couple of weeks, or I see signs of wilting.
Many perennials can handle a lengthy dry spell. But you need to know your plants. Hydrangeas and other heat-sensitive plants may need to be babied during drought.
As for annuals and edibles, you’ll want to be more diligent in checking your soil’s moisture level.
Measuring Sprinkler Output
If you want to measure sprinkler output, it might be a little tricky to find a good open location for your gauge – unless you’re focused on your lawn.
In the garden, do your best to keep gauges out from under plants but still in the middle of the action.
If you use a sprinkler on a regular basis, it’s helpful to get an idea of how long it takes for your system to produce an inch of water.
To do this, set your rain gauge out in the lawn. Then start your sprinkler up so that the gauge is within the sprinkler’s path.
After 15 minutes, check the amount collected. Take note, and then dump it.
Repeat this process two to three times and take the average of the results. The final measurement gives you a general idea of how much water your sprinkler produces in a 15-minute time span.
Use this measurement to figure out how long you’ll need to run your sprinkler in order to provide your garden or lawn with an inch of water.
It would be annoying to have to run out and check all the time, so getting an idea of your sprinkler’s flow rate will allow you to set your system on a timer and forget about it.
Keep in mind that sprinklers result in more runoff and evaporation than other forms of irrigation, like drip irrigation.
Supplemental Watering
No matter what, I always check the soil, especially around my annuals and edibles.
Checking the soil is the best way to get an idea of moisture needs. If the top 2 inches are dry, it’s time to grab the hose.
And while 1 inch of rain per week is sufficient in most cases, there are some exceptions.
If it’s a heavy, short downpour and there’s significant runoff, you may be surprised by how little penetration occurs.
Also, if you have a raised bed, the soil will dry out faster than a garden planted at ground level. So plan on hand watering raised beds more frequently than ground level gardens in the absence of rain.
One inch of water should penetrate the soil somewhere between 6 and 15 inches deep. But your soil type can dramatically affect this.
Clay soils, which are denser, won’t be as deeply penetrated by a 1-inch rain event as loamy and sandy soils.
Also, if temperatures are consistently above 90°F, moisture needs may jump from 1 inch per week to 2 inches per week.
As a general practice, try to water in the morning before the heat sets in. This will help to ease the heat stress placed on your plants.
It will also give your plants time to dry out completely during the day. Wet conditions in the coolness of night make a nice, cozy environment for diseases to develop – and we don’t want that!
Mulching your garden with wood chips, pine straw, or organic matter is also a wonderful way to retain soil moisture and reduce the need for hand watering.
Take the Guesswork Out of It
As basic and essential as water is to your garden, it’s not always easy to know when to supplement, or how much your garden needs.
And for some reason, it’s easy to think your garden needs more water than it actually does.
Using a rain gauge is a great way to take some of the guesswork out of it.
This simple tool gives you a general idea of how much water has hit the soil, which will limit how often you find yourself reaching for the hose.
And coupled with checking your soil before you water, it will give you a lot more confidence in caring for your garden.
I don’t know about you, but I often have a tough time remembering what I did yesterday, let alone the last time it rained.
So having a rain gauge as a reference keeps me from drowning my garden and gives me more confidence in how often I do choose to get the hose out.
Have you used a rain gauge? Do you find it helpful? Share your favorites (or DIY construction tips) with us in the comments!
Living in a northern climate with long cold winters, I am always looking for dramatic indoor plants to liven up my home.
With its elegant, arching fronds, the areca palm adds a tropical flair to the living room all year long.
Relatively low maintenance, these popular houseplants are nontoxic to dogs and cats, and with the right care will grace your home for many years.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Are you ready to welcome an areca palm into your home? Here’s what I’ll cover:
What Is Areca Palm?
These clumping palms feature multiple stems growing from the base and soft, narrow, feathery fronds each with approximately 40 to 60 pairs of leaflets.
They grow about six to ten inches per year and mature plants range from five to eight feet tall when grown indoors.
In USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and above, they can be planted outdoors and can reach up to 30 feet tall at maturity.
Areca palms have several common names, including golden cane, butterfly, yellow, and bamboo palm.
These members of the Arecaceae family are endemic to Madagascar, where they can be found in a very specific habitat of slightly acidic, sandy, rocky soil near the sea.
Dypsis lutescens was previously classified in the now defunct Chrysalidocarpus genus, but this changed in 1995, after an extensive study into Madagascan palms led to the combination of several genera into the Dypsis genus.
These plants have naturalized in a range of subtropical and tropical areas worldwide, and are one of the most common ornamental palms grown in tropical landscapes.
A recipient of the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS in 1993, the areca palm is an incredibly popular houseplant for the home or office, as they are easy to grow indoors and are fairly inexpensive.
Propagation
Widely available as nursery stock, you can also propagate areca palm yourself from seed or by dividing an existing plant.
From Seed
This process does take a bit of time. You can expect seeds to germinate after about six weeks and for it to take several years for plants to reach three or four feet in height.
If you happen to have fresh seeds, you can plant them right away. Otherwise, a few additional steps are necessary to improve germination rates.
Before planting, the seeds require scarification. This can be done by rubbing seeds against a mesh screen or sandpaper, then rinsing them with water. Next, place the seeds in a jar with white vinegar for a few hours, then drain and rinse in fresh water.
When seeds are ready to plant, fill three-inch pots with a potting mix suitable for palms, such as Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm, and Citrus Soil, available at Home Depot.
Water until the medium is damp, but not waterlogged. Place one seed in each pot with the tip just barely sticking out of the soil.
Give a final spritz of water and keep the pots in a location that’s reliably between 80-85°F, or on a heat mat, misting occasionally to keep the potting medium moist, but not soggy.
Once a few leaves have emerged and the seedlings are three to four inches tall, you can replant into larger pots.
Commercial growers will typically put three to four seedlings in one 12-inch pot to create a more bushy, “full” appearance.
By Division
An easier and faster way to propagate is by division. If you happen to have a friend with a mature plant in their house, ask if they are willing to share.
The best time to divide is in the spring when new growth is starting to appear, though it is possible anytime of year.
Watering well the day before you plan to divide the plant will help loosen the soil, and make the roots easier to separate.
Find a clump of three to five stems to divide from the parent, and using a sharp knife, dig carefully in the soil around the stems to gently loosen and cut the stems apart, being careful to keep all roots intact.
If you prefer, you can remove the entire plant from its container. Shake off the soil and cut away a section of stems and their attached roots.
Plant the division in a new container in a palm potting mix, mentioned above, or a combination of standard potting soil and coarse sand at a two to one ratio, for additional drainage.
After repotting the division, water it thoroughly, and return the parent plant to its original pot, or repot if desired.
Water thoroughly and wait at least three months before fertilizing.
Transplanting Nursery Plants
Transplant nursery stock in fresh, well-draining potting mix, preferably a palm-specific potting soil or general potting mix amended with sand.
You can also use a mixture of three parts peat to one part sand, or peat, pine bark, and sand at a 6:1:3 ratio.
Choose a container with drainage holes at the bottom that’s two to four inches wider and deeper than the nursery pot. Add some of your chosen potting medium to the bottom of the container, remove the plant from the nursery pot, and set it carefully on top.
Fill the pot up with potting medium tamping down as you go, to remove air pockets. Give it a deep watering, allowing the liquid to drain out of the bottom of the pot, then set it in your chosen location.
How to Grow
Areca palms are fairly low maintenance as long as they are given the appropriate growing conditions.
The main consideration when choosing a location in your home is light. Areca palms need bright, indirect sunlight, so choose a spot near a west-, or south-facing window.
But beware, as too much direct sunlight may scorch the foliage and cause it to turn yellow.
Temperature
The ideal temperature for growing your areca palm is in a location with daytime temperatures of 75-85°F, dropping to no less than 65°F at night.
These tropical plants do not appreciate large fluctuations in temperature, so be sure to avoid placing it too close to heat sources, drafty windows, or doors.
Humidity
In their native range, these plants thrive in high humidity. This can be a challenge for houseplant parents, particularly during the winter months when heat sources dry out the air indoors.
When the humidity is too low, the plant will lose moisture through its foliage, and this can result in brown patches on the leaves.
Ideally, you should keep the humidity over 45 percent. There are various ways to achieve this: You can mist the leaves frequently, place the plant on a humidity tray, or use a humidifier in the room where your plant is located.
Water
These tropical evergreens like plenty of water but you have to take care not to overwater. You need to allow the soil to dry to a depth of two inches between waterings.
When you water your plant, allow the liquid to drain out of the bottom of the pot, but don’t leave the plant sitting in a saucer of water.
After watering, the soil should feel just a bit damp, not soggy.
These plants are especially sensitive to chemicals and mineral salts, so try to avoid using municipal water that contains fluoride. Distilled water or collected rainwater are better options.
Fertilizer
They are sensitive to fertilizer salts and buildup can cause discoloration or spots to appear on the leaves.
You can apply a liquid houseplant fertilizer such as 12-4-12 (NPK) two or three times during the growing season, diluting to about half the recommended concentration.
It is better to under-fertilize your palm rather than use too much to avoid stress from buildup of fertilizer salts. Do not feed your plant at all during the winter.
Growing Tips
Set the pot in a bright, indirect light with temperatures between 65-85°F.
Water when the top two inches of soil has dried out.
Feed a liquid houseplant fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season, but take care not to over fertilize.
Pruning and Maintenance
It is best to repot your areca palm every couple of years in fresh potting medium to remove any buildup of fertilizer salt deposits and refresh soil nutrients.
Arecas do well in a tight space, so select a container just a few inches larger than the current one.
Prune occasionally and conservatively, only to remove browned fronds or dead and diseased canes. Browning tips on the leaves are a natural part of the life cycle and should not be trimmed as this could stunt the plant’s growth.
Do not remove healthy canes that appear golden in color. To check whether a cane is dead, carefully remove a small piece of the outer bark.
If the inner wood is green that indicates it is alive and shouldn’t be removed. If it is dark brown in color, the cane is most likely dead and can be safely pruned. Cut off dead canes at the base with a sharp pair of garden shears.
Leaves that are turning brown can be a sign of over-fertilization or lack of water. Yellow spots may indicate that the acidity in the soil is too high or that potassium levels are too low.
Where to Buy
You likely won’t have any trouble sourcing this plant from your local nursery – or perhaps a friend has one in their living room that needs dividing.
If you aren’t able to locate one nearby, they can also be found online.
If you want to start a little smaller, you can find plants measuring 12-18 inches tall available in six-inch pots from California Tropicals via Amazon.
Alternatively, if you want to try your hand at propagation and start from seed, you can purchase packets of 10+ seeds from Palm Beach Medicinal herbs, available via Amazon.
Managing Pests and Disease
The good news is that areca palms grown indoors don’t tend to have significant issues with pests and disease, but there are a couple of things to watch out for.
Insects
Tiny insects may infest your areca palm, so keep an eye on your plants and pay extra attention if you start to notice discoloration or spots on leaves.
Spider Mites
Related to spiders, these tiny arachnids can sometimes be found feeding on the underside of leaves, particularly in dry conditions.
While they can be hard to see, yellowing leaves may be a sign of their presence, and when infestations become large you may notice webbing between the fronds.
Also minuscule, these white fuzzy pests appear as tiny white dots underneath the leaves. Signs of infestation include greying leaf tips and in the case of a very large infestation, the foliage may die.
Both spider mites and mealy bugs can be removed by spraying the leaves with soapy water. Simply mix three tablespoons of dishwashing liquid with a gallon of water, and spray leaves every couple of days until you no longer see signs of infestation.
Alternatively, you can use neem oil or insecticidal soap per the manufacturer’s directions.
Whiteflies
Whiteflies are typically found on the underside of the foliage, and these pests suck sap from the leaves, damaging the plant and leaving behind a sticky residue which may attract ants.
You can treat your plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil, according to package instructions.
When grown indoors, you are unlikely to see any disease issues on your areca palm.
When plants fail to thrive, it’s usually as a result of environmental conditions: issues related to water, lighting, temperature, or nutrient content.
One potential infection to be aware of is pink rot, aka Gliocladium blight, caused by Gliocladium vermoeseni. This fungal disease produces pink covered spores which coat the base of the stems in pink dust and if left unchecked, can cause rotting on any part of the plant.
It typically infects already weakened or injured palms. Overwatering, insufficient nutrients, or improper lighting can all create stressful conditions that can make the plant susceptible to this disease.
Too much water is most often the culprit, so be sure to let the soil dry out sufficiently between waterings and always make sure containers have adequate drainage.
If you notice pink rot on your areca palm, you will need to prune off any affected parts of the plant, repot it into a clean, sterilized container with fresh potting medium. In the case of severe infections, you may need to dispose of the plant and start again.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Perennial palm
Foliage Color:
Green
Native to:
Madagascar
Tolerance:
Some direct sunlight, heat
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
10-11
Soil Type:
Organically rich
Exposure:
Bright, indirect light
Soil pH:
6.1-6.5
Planting Depth:
Same as root ball
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Time to Maturity:
10 years
Uses:
Ornamental houseplant
Height:
5-8 feet indoors (10-30 feet outdoors)
Order:
Arecales
Spread:
3 feet indoors (8-15 feet outdoors)
Family:
Arecaceae
Water Needs:
Moderate
Genus:
Dypsis
Maintenance:
Low
Species:
lutescens
Common Pests:
Mealy bugs, spider mites, whiteflies
Common Diseases:
Pink Rot
A Little Slice of Paradise
Bring a touch of tropical paradise into your living space with areca palm. You can admire the graceful fronds while you dream of Madagascan beaches, sun, and blue sky.
Even in the depths of winter.
Do you have experience growing areca palms? Let us know in the comments section below and feel free to share a photo!
If you enjoyed this article, check out the following guides for more houseplants to add to your collection:
Morning glories, Ipomoea purpurea, are quick-growing vines, popular for their colorful flowers that open each morning from summer until the first frost of fall.
Reaching between six and 10 feet in height, this fairly aggressive plant can take over a garden if you aren’t careful.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Fortunately, they are easy to grow in containers, which can be particularly advantageous if you are worried about them spreading.
Read on to learn how to plant morning glories in pots.
Advantages of Container Growing
I love growing morning glories! They come in all sorts of colors, can add vertical dimension to the garden when trained up trellises, and pollinators love them.
The only downside is that because they grow rapidly and self-seed readily, they have a tendency to take over gardens.
Sometimes they can wind around and suffocate other plants.
Fortunately, container growing is an easy way to keep these vines under control, reducing the risk of a hostile takeover.
This also gives you the freedom to set them anywhere, like a balcony or patio.
Since this plant is a perennial in warmer climates, you can even choose to grow it indoors, or move the pots inside for the winter.
How to Plant
Look for a pot with drainage holes that is at least eight to 10 inches wide, and six inches deep.
Plant in a light potting soil that drains well. Adding some gravel to the bottom of the container will help ensure holes don’t get clogged.
You can start seeds indoors in the container about four to six weeks before the last frost, or start outside once the soil has warmed to 60°F.
Soaking seeds overnight prior to planting can help improve germination. Sow seeds at 1/4 inch deep and water well.
Once seedlings emerge, thin to no more than two or three plants per pot.
Growing Indoors
If you are keeping your morning glories indoors, remember that these vines need quite a bit of sun, at least six to eight hours a day.
They grow best in direct bright light and should be set in a sunny south or southeast facing window.
Make sure they have something to vine around so they stay contained. You may also choose to prune during the summer to slow growth and encourage blooming.
Deadhead spent flower heads and trim back lateral stems that sprout to keep vines from growing out of control.
Indoor plants should be watered with a fine mist during initial growth to keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Once plants are well established, water thoroughly a couple of times a week at the soil level, letting the soil dry out before watering again.
In late fall, cut plants back to about six inches tall andreduce watering.The vine will resume growth once spring arrives.
To encourage blooming, you may also feed plants every few weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer during the growing season, such as AgroThrive General Purpose Liquid Fertilizer, available from Arbico Organics.
It’s a Win-Win Situation
Learn to grow morning glories in containers and you will no longer need to worry about vines taking over your garden.
Instead, you can add color and vertical dimension to porches, patios, or even your living room.
Have you grown morning glories in containers? Share your tips and photos in the comments below!
If you found this information helpful, check out these articles next to learn more about morning glory flowers next:
I like to think of myself as someone who loves all redbuds equally. There’s something magical to find in each and every one.
But, of course, were I forced to pick a few favorites lest I be banned from ever owning one again (heaven forbid), there are a few that I could play favorites for.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Lavender Twist® is at the top of that list. An eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) cultivar with all the best that these trees have to offer, it’s pretty impossible not to fall in love.
If you’re looking for a weeping redbud that stands out from the very, very large crowd, it’s worth considering Lavender Twist®. It’s intensely floriferous with vibrant fall foliage, all in a compact package.
We’re going to talk all things ‘Covey’ in this guide, touching on its history and explaining how to make it happiest. Here’s a quick preview of everything we’ll discuss:
If you’re new to growing redbuds or just want some extra general knowledge, please visit our guide to growing redbuds.
It goes over all the basics of the Cercis genus and how to cultivate these plants.
When you feel like you’re ready to do the twist, come back here, and let’s jump in.
Cultivation and History
Lovely Lavender Twist®, sometimes called ‘Covey,’ is a dwarf, weeping redbud cultivar that lends itself perfectly to small gardens or even containers.
Tim Brotzman of Brotzman’s Nursery in Madison, Ohio, bred the stunner after he was sent some scions of an unusual weeping redbud.
It took him 50 tries to get it right, but once he did, he was rewarded with a twisting, weeping tree so distinct that gardeners ask for it by name.
The cultivar name is actually an homage to Cornelia Covey, the woman who owned the original tree that was growing on her property in Westfield, New York.
Several years after the tree found success in cultivation, Cornelia’s neighbor recounted how the original plant was almost unceremoniously cut down while he was helping her remove unruly lilacs from the yard.
Since he wasn’t sure what kind of plant it was, he said that he decided to let it be for the time being. It was later sent to Brotzman and the rest, as they say, is history.
Talk about a happy accident!
Photo via Alamy.
So what makes Lavender Twist® so awesome? Well, the first thing most people look at with redbuds is the blossoms. With this tree, the branches are completely covered in vibrant, rosy lavender blooms.
Next, with a weeping tree, we all want to know what height and width it will eventually reach. ‘Covey’ is a true dwarf, reaching about six feet tall and eight feet wide.
After the blossoms fade in the spring, the attractive leaves are medium green and glossy, with a distinct heart shape. In fall, the foliage turns copper, yellow, and gold.
So that’s three seasons covered. But Lavender Twist® continues to impress in the winter with its zig-zagging branches, which look all the more interesting covered in a layer of snow.
Ready to plant one? Do you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9? Then let’s go!
Propagation
The only way to propagate ‘Covey’ is to buy a plant from a nursery.
That’s because it’s patented, and any other type of propagation is prohibited. And that means you shouldn’t be begging cuttings off of your neighbor.
Fortunately, it’s a popular cultivar, so it shouldn’t be too hard to find one. We’ll provide suggestions in the section below on where to buy plants, so keep reading!
Once you bring a live plant or bare root specimen home, assuming it’s spring or fall, prep the planting area. Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the container or root ball. Mix the soil that you dug out with well-rotted compost and fill the hole back in halfway.
Set the plant in the hole so the crown or root flare is above the soil line. The trunk can’t be buried at all. Fill in around the roots and tamp it down. Water the earth well and fill in with a bit more soil if it settles when you water.
How to Grow
Lavender Twist® does best in full sun, but if you live somewhere with sweltering summers, give it a bit of afternoon shade. The soil pH needs to be around 6.5 to 8.0, and the earth should drain well.
This cultivar isn’t as drought tolerant as some others, but it’s quite drought tolerant nonetheless. Offer up some water when the top three inches or so of soil dries out.
Feed your tree once a month during the growing season with an all-purpose, balanced fertilizer. Something like Triple 10 All Purpose Liquid, with a 10-10-10 NPK, is just right.
Fiberglass, wood, concrete, or insulated plastic pots generally work best.
Don’t place a layer of rocks in the bottom. Fill it right up with potting soil and plant at the same depth that it was growing originally in the nursery pot.
Caring for container-grown redbuds is generally the same as what you would do if one was planted in the ground.
But you’ll want to wrap the container in burlap or some other form of insulation in the winter if you have an extended and unusual cold snap or cycles of freezing and thawing.
A thick layer of mulch placed on top of the soil will help as well.
Growing Tips
Plant in full sun.
Water when the top three inches of soil dry out.
Fertilize once a month during the growing season.
Pruning and Maintenance
Left to its own devices, as with most weeping trees, Lavender Twist® won’t have that perfect umbrella-like shape.
It will slump over like an old lady in a cartoon with an exaggerated “Dowager’s hump,” branches trailing along the ground.
Photo via Alamy.
If you don’t mind that look, then you don’t need to do much, if any, pruning until the tree is a bit older. If you buy a slightly older plant to start, the grower will have already done this training for you.
Everyone else will need to give the youngsters some lessons in appropriate posture when they’re one to two years old, three years max.
To do this, once the ground can be worked in early spring, take a good look at the shape. Find the most robust, healthy branch at the very top of the tree and cut everything else off. Give these superfluous branches the chop as close to the trunk as you can.
Now, sink a stake in the pot or ground right next to the trunk of the plant. Take that remaining branch and pull it straight up. It might have some funky twists in it, but that will just add to the character.
Fasten the branch to the stake using tape or twine.
Now, just let it grow. In a while, it will start sending out new growth from the top, and you’ll have that tall, arching, umbrella-like shape that’s so attractive in weeping plants.
If you purchased a tree that has already been trained or you trained your own, and now it’s more mature, the only pruning you need to do is to remove any dead, diseased, or broken branches and to thin out the canopy a little when it becomes crowded.
You can also chop off the ends of the branches if they’re growing too low to the ground for your taste.
Redbuds are cauliflorous, which means they bud on main stems and older growth rather than on new growth as many plants do. For that reason, it’s pretty hard to mess up the pruning and ruin the coming year’s floral show.
Where to Buy
Ready to bring one home? Local nurseries are a great place to start.
Fast Growing Trees also has live plants available in three- to four-, four- to five-, and five- to six-foot-tall heights.
And the Lavender Twist® trees at Planting Tree come in three- to four-, four- to five-, and five- to six-foot-tall options that have been trained to have that elegant form most people are looking for.
Managing Pests and Disease
Lavender Twist® isn’t uniquely resistant to any of the pests and diseases that can impact redbuds.
Watch for leaf rollers (Fascista cercerisella) and emerald ash borers (Agrilus planipennis), as well as canker (caused by Botryosphaeria spp.) and verticillium wilt (caused by Verticillium albo-atrum). Learn more in our guide.
Best Uses
Lavender Twist® makes an excellent specimen as a centerpiece for a small garden or in a container for added interest on a patio, deck, or flanking an entryway.
Redbuds are pretty eye-catching trees to begin with. Then you add more blossoms per inch on a compact, weeping tree, and you have something truly exceptional.
How do you plan to use your Lavender Twist®? Will you put it in a container to liven up a patio? Let it act as a centerpiece in a small garden? Share your plans with us in the comments.
I hope that guide helped you to feel confident in raising this plant. If you would like to learn more about redbuds, check out these guides next:
Sorry! As a registered member you get 10 free posts from our archive (posts more than a year old) every 30 days. You have reached your limit for this 30-day period. If you would like to access unlimited posts from the archive (ad free, too), become a subscriber today, and keep reading as many articles as you want.
Full Access Individual Subscription
Benefits include:
Unlimited access to Remodelista, Gardenista, and The Organized Home sites
Ad-free browsing environment
Unrestricted access to 30,000+ archived posts
Receive the full-text daily newsletters
All features that Members have access to
Annual subscribers pay just 50% off the monthly subscription price of $9.99
It’s a member of the Boraginaceae family of plants, which includes forget-me-not and heliotrope.
Naturalized in the United States, it grows in a wild and weedy fashion, sporting its signature blue star blossoms as well as fuzzy leaves, stems, and drooping buds.
In addition to the botanical species, there are cultivated varieties available in both blue and white.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
In this article, I’ll cover how to cultivate borage, a versatile herb that may be grown as an ornamental, an ingredient for herbal and culinary use, or as a cover crop.
Note that its fuzzy texture may cause a skin reaction in sensitive people. If you are prone to allergies, wear gloves when you handle it.
Cultivation and History
According to experts at the Flower Essence Society, B. officinalis likely originated in Syria. Today it is naturalized throughout Europe and the United States.
There are two literary references from the 1500s to an herb believed to be borage: there is a forgetfulness-inducing herb in Homer’s Odyssey, and a mood elevator in Dioscorides’ De Materia Medica.
The leaves and flowers have long been used in the eastern Mediterranean region as potherbs and drink garnishes.
They also have a history of use in herbal remedies to address conditions ranging from respiratory issues to adrenal problems.
The leaves have an aroma reminiscent of cucumber, and a rather salty flavor. The flowers are sweet, like honey.
The seeds contain an oil prized for its high gamma linoleic acid (GLA) content.
This fatty acid is believed to be antigenotoxic and anti-inflammatory. Today it is sold as a health supplement.
However, please note: in addition to being a potential skin irritant, consumption of this herb may cause adverse reactions.
If you have a medical condition, please consult a physician or other healthcare professional before consumption, to avoid drug interactions.
Although each stunning flower blooms for only a day, starry B.officinalis opens continually during the summer months, making it a rich nectar and pollen source for honeybees.
To encourage optimal flower production, deadhead spent blooms frequently, or harvest them fresh for use as a garnish in salads or drinks.
An annual by definition,B. officinalis behaves like a perennial. It is a self-sower that ensures its future by dropping seeds at season’s end that germinate the following spring.
Mature dimensions may reach three feet tall and up to 18 inches wide.
Propagation
The best way to start growing B. oficinalis is from seed. Seeds have a high germination rate, and sowing them couldn’t be easier.
Self-sowing at season’s end ensures that a one-time seed investment repays the grower for years to come.
It’s easy to start new plants from seed by direct sowing outdoors in spring after the last average frost date has passed.
Alternatively, you can start seeds indoors a month before the last frost date and transplant seedlings to the garden.
How to Grow
This is an herb that delivers dynamic growth when you offer ideal conditions.
Provide a location with full sun. Plants tolerate part shade, but may not produce as many flowers without an abundance of sunshine.
The soil may be average, provided it drains well.
To improve the drainage of compact, clay-like soil, amend it with organically-rich material like leaf mulch or compost, as well as ordinary builder’s sand. Note that the addition of organic matter may slightly increase soil acidity.
The ideal soil pH is between 4.8 and 8.3. This is a wide range, and it’s very likely that your soil is within bounds.
B. officinalis is not prone to problems with insects or disease. It is valued in the garden because it attracts beneficial insects that feed on many pests, making it a great companion plant.
However, if its growing environment is less than ideal, trouble may arise.
The fungal infections most likely to infect plants when conditions are too wet include: leaf spot, powdery mildew, root rot, and stem rot.
To avoid leaf spot and powdery mildew, be sure to space plants the recommended nine to 18 inches apart, depending upon their expected mature widths.
This helps maintain sufficient air circulation and inhibits the buildup of excess moisture and humidity.
Root and stem rot begin in oversaturated soil. Avoidance measures include sowing in soil that drains well, and not overwatering.
In the event of a fungal outbreak, remove affected foliage or entire plants and discard them in the trash.
You may also apply a food-safe fungicide according to package instructions.
It’s unlikely that your plants will be bothered by deer or rabbits, as the aromatic leaves and fuzzy texture don’t seem to appeal to them.
Harvesting
Keep in mind that the fuzzy texture of borage may cause skin irritation, and consumption may cause adverse reactions.
To pick flowers, grasp the brownish center and pull gently to release them from the green calyxes below.
You can harvest the leaves when they are smooth young sprouts, as “microgreens,” or at a later stage when they are larger and fuzzier.
To harvest the leaves, use your thumb nail to pinch them off at the base.
B. officinalis is an “indeterminate” grower that may be harvested many times.
Plant some borage between these plants to ward off common pests. Just remember you’re sowing a vigorous grower, and don’t let it take over!
And if you have fallow land waiting for a cool-weather crop, you can sow B. officinalis as a cover crop to help prevent erosion, retain moisture, and inhibit weed growth.
THE TIME IS approaching for my annual pass with the tractor through my little meadow on the hill above my house—the one time each year I really intervene in it, by mowing (above). Meadow-making is an exercise in patience and restraint and in accepting that it has a life of its own, it seems to me. And I wanted to talk about all that with someone who makes meadows as his profession.
Owen Wormser’s popular 2020 book “Lawns into Meadows: Growing a Regenerative Landscape” (affiliate link) is just out in a new second edition. Owen is a landscape designer at Abound Design, his firm based in Western Massachusetts, and we talked about the life of a meadow and its maintenance. Meadows are not an overnight project, nor are they something that remains static and unchanging, I am reminded.
Plus: Enter to win a copy of the second edition of his book by commenting in the box near the bottom of the page.
making, and maintaining, meadows, with owen wormser
Margaret: We talked when the book first came out, and you’ve won prizes with it and it’s gotten great acclaim, which is wonderful. We talked then about sort of how to choose plants to make a meadow, how to pick the right grasses that are such foundational plants for a meadow and the steps for soil preparation and so forth.
But today I just wanted to talk a little bit more about then what [laughter]? Because there is a long life cycle of then what and in the book toward the end you say, “Part of establishing a meadow is also a lesson in letting go. Basic maintenance aside, once you’ve designed and planted your meadow, your primary job is to give it the space and time it needs to reveal its own character.”
So let’s talk about that. Tell us, is that something you explain to potential clients before the fact?
Owen: I spend a lot of time educating people about this, whether they’re clients or in workshops. Really every opportunity that I have, I try to mention this, because it’s a linchpin to this whole process. And it’s one that people tend to overlook because really building a meadow and a lot of ecological gardening is a collaboration with nature. And so you have to let these species and the environment unfold and sort of unfurl in the way that they will. And plants aren’t entirely predictable. They’re not mechanical.
Margaret: That’s to say the least [laughter].
Owen: And so, exactly. But people often not, to be fair, people aren’t exposed to this perspective or this information. And we come from a culture where people are essentially ecologically illiterate. No one shows them this stuff. So people have to really learn to be able to observe and watch what’s happening. Really, the key piece here is to engage in ways that really are founded on observation.
Margaret: Yes. Now I’m in a rural place and I say that as a preface because to what I’m going to say, because as you and I have probably talked about before: In a place that wasn’t turfgrass, sown as turfgrass, a place that was an old field or something, you can kind of make a meadow by “unmowing” I think, sometimes or a lot of times you can just see what kind of comes up, more than you can in a bluegrass lawn or a fescue lawn or whatever, which who knows what’s going to come up there [laughter].
So I have this sort of unmown meadow above my house, and in the 35 years or so, maybe 30 years that I’ve been not mowing it and watching, I mean it’s totally changed. Initially it was a lot of leftover pasture grasses, but also a lot of little bluestem. And then the goldenrod started coming in, and then there was one species and now there’s six species of goldenrod [laughter].
Owen: Wow.
Margaret: It’s like, whoa, where are you all coming from? And that’s the thing is I just have to be okay with, it’s not what it was five years ago, 15 years ago, 25. Do you know what I mean? It’s got its own design like thing going. It’s designing itself.
Owen: It’s fluid. And that’s a really good example, because these things aren’t static. And as caretakers, we have the ability to steer this to some degree, but the idea is to also let the plants and the site and nature steer it as well. It’s a collaboration. So the idea that we’re imposing exactly what we want into a space is something that we kind of have to leave at the door, because that’s not what this is about. This is a collaboration, and that’s what you’ve been doing and you see what comes and goes. But you also, I’m sure do a little bit of editing here and there and do try to steer it to the degree that makes sense to you.
Margaret: Yes. And I want to talk more about the editing in a minute. But I think as gardeners though, and so down below that’s on the hill above the house and sort of down below in the areas right around the house, I’m more of a gardener. Right? And so I design a pot for the container design for the season, or I have a bed right near the walkway and I want the plants to be the plants where I want them, what I want, how many I want. You know what I mean? And I want to edit it as I want and deadheads it and this and that and the other thing. And it’s just the opposite. That is such gardening… Horticulture is such an act of control and-
Owen: Yeah. Absolutely. And with, I think permaculture has a good breakdown of this concept and they have different zones related to proximity to a residence. And so the zone that’s really close to a house, it does make sense a lot of times to have it be more curated and more fixed. And then as you move away from the residence, it makes a lot more sense to have it be more wild and more natural. And so there’s no hard-and-fast rule in that regard. But what you’re describing is the approach that I use as well, because I do create very curated fixed gardens quite a bit. That’s really actually my bread-and-butter, doing residential design. But with meadows, they’re relatively wild and it’s a very different approach.
Margaret: So a meadow also takes a long time. When someone says, “Oh, we want a meadow. We want to change our part of our law into this.” Why do you give them? And I suppose the timeline that you have to prepare them for also depends on the method of planting that seed, plugs, a combination, what you’re doing for prep, but what do you sort of give as the timeline of expectation?
Owen: When I’m planting with perennial native meadow seeds, I usually tell people it’s going to be at least two or three years before they really start to see those plants be a presence. And it often can be four or five years before a lot of those species are really present in a landscape.
So setting expectations is really, really important. And I try to do that as much as possible starting at the beginning of the design process, because people tend, in our culture, we tend to expect fast results. And perennial meadows take a while to establish.
And a couple of things that I do to kind of mitigate that is I’ve started putting annual seeds in with my nurse crops. So in the first year, there can be color, and often I’ll actually put down another round of annual seeds the second year to create color while the perennial plants are waiting to establish. And I also use plugs in prominent locations, even in conjunction with putting down seed.
Margaret: To sort of speed the process up a little bit?
Owen: Exactly. Plugs really will establish, if you put them in the spring, they tend to really establish and fill out as soon as the first year. So during that first summer, the color and the fullness of some of these plants starts to show up.
Margaret: So can you define “nurse crops” and also tell me some of the annuals that you are using in that first and maybe second year to help sort of visually make it look a little juicier earlier?
Owen: Yeah. So I use annual rye quite a bit as my nurse crop. That’s sort of my… And that’s a really common plant. And the nurse crop really just protects the little seedlings, the perennial seedlings as they establish. They keep the soil from eroding or getting sun, and they also provide much needed green cover. So that doesn’t look like a barren lot while we’re waiting for everything to establish.
That’s what the nurse crop does, but adding some annuals that flower really can provide color in that first year. And I’m new to this, it’s only been really three years or so since I started doing this because I was coming from a place where perennials and annuals and meadows sort of didn’t mix, which I think is kind of the mindset has been.
So my first go-around, I actually used non-natives. I used Cosmos and Gaillardia, and Helianthus, dwarf sunflower, some poppies, annual Rudbeckia, some zinnia’s. And it worked really well. But what I came to realize shortly thereafter is that there’s a lot of native annual seeds that are starting to become available. So that’s something that I’m turning my attention to. And so all of my subsequent plantings with annuals mixed into the nurse crop will be focused on native annuals.
Margaret: O.K. Any particular ones that you’ve discovered so far that you’re going to give a try?
Owen: I’ve been researching this and there’s a whole list that I’ve come up with and I’m trying to focus on things in my region. Something that really stands out are a type of Bidens [cernua], nodding bur marigold, and Indian paintbrush [Castilleja coccinea];partridge pea [Chamaecrista fasciculata is an excellent one [above, photo by Alan Branhagen].
Margaret: Yes. Yes.
Owen:Corydalis sempervirens, rock harlequin is a really good one. And let’s see, so Lobelia inflata, which is Indian tobacco, Monarda citriodora, lemon beebalm, they’re all really excellent ones. There’s some really good salvias as well that seem to do the job.
Margaret: Interesting. So that’s one way to sort of ease people into it and get a little more visual interest. And then there’s this annual rye nurse crop, so we don’t just have bare soil while we’re waiting for everybody else, there’s some green. So that’s good. And it’s also, as you said, it shades the desired seedlings, and does other work. It probably prevents a lot of weeds from happening, too. It probably crowds out some weeds, I would think, but-
Owen: Absolutely. It offers competition for weeds for sure.
Margaret: So on the other end, kind of where I’m at with mine is that, after a few years, it became clear that there was—and you mentioned it at the beginning—the sort of editing thing. And the editing is really no matter how you started your meadow or what’s in it, any area that isn’t controlled, like the garden near the house that we were talking about [laughter] with constant weeding and so forth and cutbacks and deadheading, there’s going to be editing needed.
And I find that is kind of hard to figure out some of it, because there’s the chance for soil disturbance, especially if when you get woody invaders. And obviously I’m not telling you anything because you’ve been through it [laughter]. I mean, the worst for me is the, I guess they’re blackberries or something of the Rubus, that have underground runners and stuff like that. And it’s like, well, where do I disturb and not disturb? And do I just cut off the tops or do I rip it all up? Do you know what I mean Owen?
Owen: I do.
Margaret: And how much do I intervene when I’m doing more harm than good, or what is the greater good? Can you give me any advice on that? Because I think other people probably have this experience, too, with sort of wilder areas of their garden. [Above, a front-yard planting of meadow species by Owen.]
Owen: Absolutely. And a really good question, because everything related to this sort of care, this sort of editing, is predicated on the site and what’s happening. So there’s no hard-and-fast rule with any of this. And so for instance, if you have blackberries showing up or some sort of cane plant like that, and they’re going to spread, it does make sense to dig them out.
When a meadow’s establishing, if it’s really fragile, and you’re going to create a lot of disturbance (fragile in the sense that the perennial meadow plants haven’t established yet, because they’re still just sprouting from seed) it can make a lot of sense to just clip some of those blackberries back and keep an eye on them, maybe tag them and then come back in a year or two once those meadow plants start to establish and then dig them out when you’re not creating as much disturbance.
And that’s hypothetical, but that’s just an example of how you really want to steer things in a direction that is going to basically balance out all the factors. So you have to be able to understand what these plants are doing, how they behave. For instance, annual weeds often show up in the first year or two when meadows are establishing from seed. And they tend in general not to be a problem, but there’s also certain species that maybe you don’t want growing there just because they’re not attractive.
But in general, perennials will push out annual weeds once perennials establish. So really it’s a matter of kind of weighing these things against each other, and putting together your best guess. And I think this is something you’re well aware of, but I think it’s important to remind your listeners, that a lot of this is experimentation and really just seeing what happens. So if you’re skeptical about something like pulling blackberries, maybe just pull one and see what happens in a month or two.
Margaret: I think that’s a really good idea. And it’s almost like that should be our guiding principle for all our horticultural experiments [laughter] and land management experiments. Because if you’re not sure, if it’s the first time you’re doing something and you sort of do it 50 times over or 100 times on a large scale, and it’s not the right tactic: Oops. Yeah. So we ought to do a few more trials. Huh?
Owen: Yeah. And a lot of this is experimentation. We were talking about annual seeds, and I am learning how to use native annuals as in my nurse crops. It’s something I’m not able to find a lot of information about, because people haven’t been doing this. It’s been very limited if they have. And so there’s people like myself and a lot of other people who are essentially figuring this out. And that can include all of you, all of your listeners, because that’s how we kind of regain this knowledge is by playing around and experimenting.
Margaret: Right. And then sharing the insights that we have, what worked and what didn’t really.
Owen: Exactly. And there’s that whole adage that you don’t know a plant until you kill it [laughter]. And there’s a lot of truth to it because you really know what works and what doesn’t work when you fail. And so a lot of times people are really scared of that. But if you’re doing that on a really small scale, then that’s a really good approach, because you’re going to learn a lot.
Margaret: So then what about the sort of—aside from editing and making the decisions on how to intervene when it’s needed with invaders and so forth, and how aggressively—what about the sort of annual regimen of care? You have clients who have these meadows now that are in various stages of establishment. And so like mine, I tend to mow it once a year, not too early in favor of to try to protect all the creatures who are in there overwintering, as we’ve all been hearing about in recent years.
But also, I started doing that a long time ago, not doing it too early, because I wanted the unwanted—that’s a crazy way to structure a sentence, “I wanted the unwanted” [laughter]—I wanted the less-desirable plants to be up and growing, the cool-season growers, like a lot of those old pasture grasses and weedy things that got jumped up early before my desired crops, like my little bluestem, that was one of my foundational crops that I really wanted to favor, which is a warm-season grower. Right. It starts a little later. So I wanted the other guys, the bad guys, to get up a few inches before I mowed, or even a little more before I mowed just as the bluestem was coming through.
I know it’s a long way to describe it, but that was my strategy. And it turns out to be good for the wildlife probably, too, because it means I’m mowing a little later. So that was my thing. But is that what you do? Do you figure out a timeline based for everybody in terms of their sort of spring cleanup, if there is one, or when there’s a cleanup or? Because I think, I can’t imagine mowing in the fall, people mowing in fall, not just for ecology, but just because I love looking at the meadow frosted and under the snow in the winter and fall. [Above, bluestem and goldenrod in an unmown mini-meadow at Margaret’s.]
Owen: Yeah. Meadows are beautiful in the winter, and that’s one of their main attributes is that they have all of that color and texture in the winter.
In regard to maintenance and sort of how to go about that, when to mow, it’s really site-specific. So in the first couple years of a meadow establishing there’s probably going to be more editing and more involvement than there is once it’s established. And a mature meadow is something that tends to not need a lot of care. So when a meadow’s establishing it can be really helpful to do some spot weeding, weed-whacking, use a scythe, whatever it is. And keep things down that you don’t want to encourage, because really plants can outcompete each other.
And that’s especially the case with a little bit of help. So that’s really kind of how I see my role from a maintenance perspective. You’re really just encouraging the plants that you want to see and discouraging the plants that you don’t want to see. And once a meadow is established, it tends to be a relatively minimal amount of that, but it’s still very important to just observe and keep an eye on it. Because if something does come in that you don’t want, whether it’s blackberries or mugwort or whatever it might be, if you catch it early, then they’re relatively easy to get out. So a lot of the diligence is really observation and just being ready to do that editing if something shows up that you feel is pernicious or unhelpful.
Margaret: Mugwort, ugh, that’s one that’s no fun [laughter]. That’s one that is definitely no fun. Yeah, I have it in one spot, not in the meadow, but elsewhere. And it’s like, “Oh, you again, you’re up again. Can you just go away please, mugwort?” But it’s a toughie.
So I’ve been starting some sort of new experiments the last couple of years since we last spoke, kind of unmowing some other areas. And they’re not so far from the original older kind of meadow that’s established. But it’s really fascinating to me, these sort of test trips that I’ve been doing where I just haven’t been mowing them, creating sort of these islands, different things come up even a 100 feet away, or a quarter-acre away, let alone a quarter-acre away. I
t’s really, there’s so much potential diversity. And again, I’m in a rural area, so it’s not the same as if I was in a lawn that started a sod or seed or whatever. But it’s interesting to sort of also do some forensics sort of, to like see who comes up, and watch. And even in a conventional lawn, I think some of the lawn weeds are pretty great. Some of them are good pollinator plants and so forth.
Owen: Like violets.
Margaret: Yeah. I mean, violets are so important.
Owen: Yeah, they’re really important early season pollinator plant. And what you’re pointing to really is what I try to impart to people as much as possible, which is that nature wants to be diverse and abundant. And our perspective is coming from a place in our culture where we’ve essentially diminished that presence and to such a significant degree that we don’t even know that that’s the case because we don’t generally experience it or we don’t have first-hand contact with that kind of thing. And ultimately, plants just show up. I don’t think anyone even fully understands how this works. We have a vague idea.
Margaret: Yeah, I don’t.
Owen: But it’s pretty mysterious in some cases. And really what our role is when we’re creating meadows or doing any sort of ecological gardening, is collaborating with nature and trusting that it wants to be abundant. And that sounds maybe a little sort of vague to a lot of folks, but it’s literally true. So if we give it a chance and we watch what shows up, we’ll see that in action.
Margaret: It’s pretty great because again, even a place that I’ve known for so many decades, the same piece of land, when I’ve changed my methods or timing of interventions—there’s this one really steep spot, for instance, where it’s really hard for me as I’ve gotten older to take the push mower (it’s too steep for the tractor) which is 70 pounds or 80 pounds, and be on this really big tilt. And I’m like there with this giant thing, trying to out muscle the machine. So sometimes that area doesn’t get mowed very often.
And it’s the one place on the property that I have annual fleabane [above]. I get the Erigeron and it’s like I get this wonderful outburst of these tiny little white daisies every year because I’m doing something different. I don’t understand exactly why, but I’m just putting two and two together and making a conclusion .
Owen: Yeah. I mean, and ultimately the proof is in the pudding in terms of getting results like that. And so that’s why variation and experimentation is so helpful, but also letting things grow, letting things unfold, and observing that. We tend to think that we know what we’re doing as gardeners, but once you start getting into the ecological realm, the connectivity between things and the levels of interface is so complicated that we’ll probably never understand it. And so that’s O.K.
Because it’s happening anyways. We don’t need to be able to break every little detail down to its respective part. So what you’re describing is a good example of how these things work. And if something works—and I tell people this with meadow-making—if you can get results, then you did it right. There’s no one way to approach this.
Margaret: Yeah. It’s not exactly like baking, where either the dough rises or it doesn’t rise.
Owen: Absolutely.
Margaret: Exactly like that, right? There’s lots of different, well, I mean you can still eat it even if it didn’t rise, but it does have a mind and a spirit of its own for sure.
Owen: It’s very different than most things we do except for raising other living things.
Margaret: Yes.
Owen: Whether they’re pets or children.
Margaret: Yes.
Owen: But with plants and ecology as well, because we’re talking about soil and all these other factors, it’s all alive.
Margaret: Yes. Well, I’m always so glad to speak to you, and again, congratulations on the second edition of “Lawns into Meadows,” which is just out, Owen Wormser.
I’LL BUY A COPY of the new edition of “Lawns Into Meadows” by Owen Wormser for one lucky reader. All you have to do to enter is answer this question in the comments box below:
Have you experimented with meadow-style plantings or any other looser, wilder areas in your garden? Tell us where you are located, too.
No answer, or feeling shy? Just say something like “count me in” and I will, but a reply is even better. I’ll select a random winner after entries close Tuesday April 25, 2023 at midnight. Good luck to all.
(Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)
prefer the podcast version of the show?
MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the April 17, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
Having a pool in your backyard is a dream come true for many homeowners. Not only does it provide a refreshing escape from the summer heat, but it can also enhance the overall aesthetic of your landscape.
However, integrating a pool into your backyard is not as simple as digging a hole and filling it with water.
We created this guide so that you can place a functional pool into an existing landscape without any hiccups.
How to Successfully Integrate a Pool Into A Landscape
A swimming pool is an excellent addition to your home because it provides a space for entertainment, relaxation, and exercise. Here are various things you should consider for this type of project:
Select your pool grating
Pool grating is an essential component of your pool plans as it serves to collect and drain water from the pool deck area. It can enhance the overall aesthetic of your landscape and provide added safety for swimmers.
There are various types of pool grating materials you can choose from— stainless steel, PVC, and stone. The choice of material depends on your personal preference, budget, and the overall design concept of your landscape. It is essential to work closely with your landscaping services provider to ensure that the selected grating complements the rest of your outdoor space.
What to look for in your swimming pool grating
When choosing your swimming pool grating, consider the following features:
Durability
The pool grating should be made from a material that can withstand constant exposure to water, chemicals, and weather elements. High-quality stainless steel or fiberglass gratings are ideal choices for their durability and resistance to corrosion.
Easy maintenance
Choose a pool grating that is easy to clean and maintain. Gratings with a removable or hinged design allow for easier access to the underlying gutter system, making cleaning and maintenance more convenient.
Load-bearing capacity
Ensure that your pool grating can withstand the weight of people walking on it. Check the manufacturer’s specifications for the grating’s load-bearing capacity, and make sure it meets or exceeds the required standards.
Carefully select your pool deck drain
The pool deck drain is an important feature that prevents standing water from accumulating around your pool, which can lead to slippery surfaces and potential damage to your landscaping. Here’s what to consider when selecting your pool deck drain:
Type of drain
Pool deck drains are available in various designs, such as linear drains, slot drains, and point drains. Consider the size of your pool area and the amount of water that needs to be drained to determine the most suitable type of drain.
Material
Like pool gratings, pool deck drains are available in different materials, such as stainless steel, PVC, and fiberglass. Choose a material that offers durability and resistance to corrosion, as well as one that matches the aesthetic of your landscape.
Drain capacity
The pool deck drain should have sufficient capacity to handle the volume of water generated by your pool and the surrounding area. Check the manufacturer’s specifications to ensure the drain meets your requirements.
Pool drain cover replacement
Pool drain covers play a critical role in maintaining the safety and cleanliness of your swimming pool. Over time, pool drain covers can become damaged or worn, necessitating their replacement. Follow these steps to replace your pool drain cover:
Choose a new drain cover
Select a drain cover that matches the size, shape, and material of your existing drain. Ensure that the cover meets the required safety standards and is compatible with your pool’s drainage system.
Remove the old drain cover
Turn off your pool’s circulation system and drain the water from the area surrounding the drain. Carefully remove the old drain cover by loosening any screws or fasteners holding it in place. Be sure to keep track of any hardware, as you may need it for installing the new cover.
Inspect the drain
Before installing the new cover, inspect the drain for any signs of damage or debris. Clean the drain and surrounding area thoroughly to ensure proper water flow and a secure fit for the new cover.
Install the new drain cover
Align the new drain cover with the drain opening, and secure it in place using the appropriate hardware. Be sure to tighten all screws or fasteners to ensure a proper seal and prevent water from seeping underneath the cover.
Test the drain
Once the new cover is installed, turn on your pool’s circulation system and check for any leaks or issues with water flow. Make any necessary adjustments and monitor the drain’s performance to ensure it is functioning correctly.
Balance aesthetics with functionality
Well-designed pool plans combine visual appeal with practicality, ensuring that your pool area is both beautiful and functional. To achieve this balance, consider the following tips:
Coordinate materials and colors
Use consistent materials and colors throughout your pool and landscape design to create a harmonious look. For example, if you have a stone patio, consider using the same stone material for your pool coping and surrounding planter boxes.
Incorporate multi-functional elements
Choose landscape elements that serve multiple purposes, such as a retaining wall that also functions as a seating area or a shade structure that doubles as a privacy screen.
Custom Planter Boxes
These boxes can add a touch of sophistication and charm to your pool landscape, while also providing an opportunity to showcase your favorite plants. Consider these tips when designing custom planter boxes:
Choose materials that complement your pool
Select planter box materials that match or complement the materials used in your pool area, such as natural stone, wood, or concrete.
Add drainage
Ensure that your planter boxes have proper drainage to prevent waterlogged soil and potential damage to your plants.
Select pool-friendly plants
Choose plants that are well-suited for the pool environment, such as those that can tolerate the increased humidity and potential exposure to pool chemicals.
Plant Pockets in Waterfalls
Incorporating plant pockets into your pool waterfall design can create a stunning visual effect while also providing additional greenery to your landscape. To successfully integrate plant pockets into your waterfall design, keep these points in mind:
Design your waterfall and plant pockets in such a way that water flows efficiently through the system, preventing stagnation and the growth of algae.
Grass Deck
Installing artificial grass around pool areas can create a lush, inviting space that is both visually appealing and low-maintenance. It also provides a comfortable surface for lounging and playing, while also reducing the risk of slips and falls. To install a grass deck around your pool, follow these steps:
Prepare the area
Remove any existing lawn or vegetation and level the ground to ensure a smooth, even surface for the artificial grass installation.
Install a drainage system
A proper drainage system is essential for preventing water accumulation and promoting a long-lasting, low-maintenance grass deck.
Select high-quality artificial grass
Choose an artificial grass product that is designed specifically for pool areas, with features such as UV resistance, non-toxic materials, and a soft, natural-looking appearance. Hire professional landscaping services if you want this done quicker.
Secure the grass
Use appropriate adhesives or fasteners to secure the artificial grass to the ground, ensuring a snug, seamless fit around your pool.
Fully integrated landscaping throughout the pool
To achieve a fully integrated pool landscape, consider the following design elements:
Hardscaping
Select hardscaping materials such as paving, decking, and retaining walls that complement your pool’s design and the surrounding landscape. Ensure that these materials are durable, non-slip, and easy to maintain.
Lighting
Incorporate strategic lighting to highlight key features, enhance safety, and create a warm and inviting atmosphere during evening hours. Options include underwater lights, path lights, and uplights for trees or other landscape features.
Outdoor living spaces
Incorporate outdoor living spaces such as patios, pergolas, or cabanas into your pool landscape to provide areas for relaxation, dining, and entertaining. These structures can be designed to blend seamlessly with your pool and landscaping, creating a cohesive and inviting outdoor environment.
Conclusion
Successfully integrating a pool into your landscape involves careful planning and attention to detail. By selecting the right pool grating and deck drain you can create a functional, aesthetically pleasing, and safe pool environment.
Philodendrons provide a gateway to growing rooms full of houseplants for many aspiring indoor plant enthusiasts, including myself.
For most of my gardening days, I’ve focused on outdoor plants, but when my partner opened a yoga studio that needed some lush greenery as fast as possible that could also handle low light conditions, I turned to philodendrons.
We weren’t disappointed, as they grew to at least 20 feet long, with vines meandering around the art on the walls and up over the curtain rods on the other side of the room within a couple of years.
With close to 500 known species in the Philodendron genus, these tropical Central and South American natives tolerate low light conditions and neglect, so even the most novice growers will have no problem getting great results.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
With their ease of care and aesthetic appeal, it’s no wonder these houseplants are so popular, often being used not just in homes but also in commercial offices, lobbies, or shopping malls.
And if you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11, there are many varieties that will grow in your outdoor garden, too.
Read on to learn how these adaptable plants can add elegant charm to your home or garden while providing tropical interest in low-light situations.
What Is a Philodendron?
Being one of the largest genera in the Araceae family, the physical characteristics of philodendrons vary from species to species, including their leaf shape and size, mature size, growth habit, and foliage color.
Some of the traits they do often have in common are imposing, often lobed leaves, long aerial roots, parallel leaf veins, and leaves that undergo similar patterns of change as they grow.
Leaves usually emerge with a heart shape as seedlings. As the plant matures, they take on different shapes ranging from large hearts, lily pads, and arrowheads to deeply lobed foliage or leaves filled with holes or slits.
The name “philodendron” is of Greek origin, from philo, meaning love and affection, and dendron, meaning tree. This aptly describes the majority of the species in the genus as vines or climbing plants that love to grow on or up trees.
In their natural habitat, larger specimens can engulf entire trees. When cultivated indoors, however, they aren’t nearly as prolific – so don’t worry about them swallowing your other plants… or your house!
You do want to be careful they don’t dig into your walls, however, which I learned the hard way. And if they do grow a bit too big for your tastes (or available space) they respond well to pruning. Read on to learn more about this.
There are two basic types of philodendron: climbing varieties and self-heading non-vining varieties.
Self-heading varieties usually have leaves spaced so close together that the stem can hardly be seen until some of the leaves (typically older ones) fall off.
To support themselves, self-heading species tend to develop aerial roots. These roots grow from the stem towards the ground and serve as more of a support structure than a means to absorb water and nutrients.
Climbing or vining varieties typically grow up trees in their natural habitat, either starting their life in the tree or germinating in the soil and stretching towards a trunk to find support, growing up to the canopy.
As expeditions to the New World tropics became more common in the 17th and 18th centuries, more and more species were discovered. By 1860, Austrian botanist Heinrich Schott had described 135 species, and today there are at least 489 known species.
Growth patterns of philodendrons are categorized into three groups:
Epiphytic – growing on other plants
Terrestrial – growing from the soil
Hemiepiphytic – growing both on other plants and from the soil
Epiphytes typically grow on a host plant, absorbing moisture and nutrients from air, rain, or surrounding debris. Aside from sometimes engulfing trees and shading them out, epiphytes usually do no harm to their hosts.
Terrestrial plants are the ones you’re probably most familiar with, which grow only from the soil.
A hemiepiphyte spends part of its lifecycle as an epiphyte and part as a terrestrial plant, and species with this growth pattern are further broken down into primary and secondary categories.
A primary hemiepiphyte disperses its seeds in the tree canopy – or birds and other animals help – and there they germinate and latch onto the tree. As the plant gets older, it sends out roots that grow towards the forest floor, eventually reaching the soil where they can absorb moisture and nutrients.
Secondary hemiepiphytes begin as rooted vines that stretch towards the canopy of a host tree. Later, some species may totally detach from the ground and live as full epiphytes.
And here’s an interesting fact: unlike most other epiphytes, philodendrons don’t usually die if they fall off their host. Being unusually tough and stubborn, they can simply root into the soil, or immediately recapture the same or grasp another host and start their upward climb again.
Most commonly grown philodendrons are very adaptable and do well outdoors year-round in Zones 9-11, though the popular heart-leaf philodendron (P. hederaceum) is only suited to growing outside in Zones 11 and 12.
Of course, the plants also do very well indoors in all climates. Despite preferring more humid conditions, they’ll grow just fine in lower humidity areas as well.
Whether cultivating them indoors or out, it’s good to understand the natural growing pattern of your particular plant. Species that are epiphytes will require less soil but may require a host plant to grow.
The most commonly grown philodendrons are secondary hemiphytes and these may require some sort of support, such as wall hooks or a trellis.
They can also be left to trail over the side of a planter, and can be trimmed regularly to the desired length. Cuttings can even be used to propagate new plants, as described below.
Propagation
Philodendrons are best propagated via cuttings, air layering, or divisions.
To take tip cuttings, cut two to three inches from the end of a stem. You may also cut off a 10-inch or longer piece and then cut it into two- to three-inch sections.
Cuttings should be made directly at or under a leaf node. The leaves around the bottom node can then be removed in preparation for rooting.
For self-heading species, I’ve had more success with stem cuttings taken directly at the leaf node that include a bit of the bulge of the node without cutting it off completely.
A Note of Caution:
Philodendrons contain a toxic substance called calcium oxalate. If ingested, this may cause burning and swelling of the lips, throat, and mouth.
It may also cause nausea, vomiting, difficulty swallowing and breathing, and other unpleasant symptoms.
Juices from the plant may also irritate the skin of some people, causing reddening, itchiness, and inflammation. Gloves should be worn while making cuttings and plants should be kept out of reach of toddlers and pets.
If a pet or person ingests any part of a philodendron vomiting should not be induced and medical attention should be sought immediately.
The bottom part of each cutting, furthest from the growing tip, should be placed immediately in clean water.
Choose a container large enough to hold at least a cup of water, so that the water doesn’t evaporate too quickly.
The cutting should be submerged about halfway up the stem, or to just before the first set of leaves. Replace the water every few days, or whenever it becomes murky. Roots will typically emerge within a few days.
When the roots are a couple of inches long, you can transfer the cuttings to four-inch pots filled with the potting mixture described below in the Soil Needs section.
They should remain in these pots until fully established – you will be able to see roots coming out of the drainage holes. They can then be transplanted to larger pots as described in the Container Selection section below.
Throughout the rooting process, while in water and in small containers, keep cuttings in a location with a steady temperature between 70 and 75°F, with bright indirect light.
Ideally, they should also be kept at a high level of humidity. Try covering containers with a humidity dome like this, available from Amazon.
The DIY version of this is to simply cover containers loosely with a clear plastic bag.
Air Layering
To air layer a philodendron, select a healthy stem with no discoloration, disease, or insect damage. Remove any leaves that are within three to four inches above a leaf node on the stem.
Using a sharp, sterilized knife, cut a shallow one-inch slit vertically into the stem. Remove the outer layer of the stem all the way around, being careful not to sever the stem from the plant.
Apply just enough rooting hormone gel or powder to the exposed stem to cover it all the way around the area that has been cut and cover this area with moist (not wet) peat moss.
Secure the peat moss by wrapping it in plastic wrap, being careful to seal it in fully before tying it off.
When you can see new roots forming in the peat moss pocket, you can cut the stem below the rooting area and plant into a four-inch pot.
By Division
Divisions are a great way of propagating mature philodendrons.
First, remove as much soil as possible from the top of the pot around the section where you want to take your division, to expose the root system.
Then, using a sharp, clean knife that’s big enough for the job, and being careful to keep a portion of the developed roots intact, cut out a section with at least two shoots.
Carefully remove the mass of roots from the soil without damaging the shoots, and transplant into an appropriately sized container as described below.
Alternatively, you can remove the plant from its pot and cut through the roots – remember to keep at least two shoots on each section.
To kick-start growth, fertilize with a transplant fertilizer like this one from Bonide that’s available from Amazon, following the instructions on the package.
How to Grow
Philodendrons will often survive even in sub-optimal conditions. However, if they are cared for well, you’ll be rewarded with continual robust new growth.
As with any plant, it’s all about finding the proper balance of water, nutrients, climate, and sunlight.
Soil Needs
One of the most important factors in caring for a philodendron is moisture management.
These plants prefer well-draining, consistently moist but not waterlogged soil. When the soil is too wet, the roots may have difficulty absorbing nutrients and oxygen – and harmful bacteria and fungi can take hold more easily.
Philodendrons prefer a pH level of 5.0-6.0, which is slightly acidic.
A combination of one part regular potting soil, one part peat moss, and one part perlite will make for the perfect slightly acidic, well-draining growing medium.
Container Selection
Choosing the right size container is also key in preventing plants from becoming waterlogged.
It’s a common rookie mistake to choose a large pot, thinking the plant will grow into it. Your container shouldn’t be so small that the plant is root bound, but it shouldn’t be so big that it doesn’t use the water in the soil fast enough either.
A good rule of thumb is to make sure plant roots occupy about a third of the pot. This will give it enough room to grow while preventing root rot, a fungal disease that favors wet conditions and oversaturated soil.
If growing outdoors, make sure the container has drainage holes for excess rainwater to drain out, and avoid planting in heavy clay soils.
Water
Watering should only be done when the top two inches of the potting mix is dry.
Your watering schedule will vary depending on the size of your plant and the growing season. If your plant is happy, the leaves will be bright and perky.
If the leaves become droopy or start to turn yellow or brown, on the other hand, you could be underwatering. And if leaves are yellow, it may be the former or latter.
At times, it may appear that the leaves are drying out even in moist but not overly soggy soil. If your philodendron’s roots are in good shape, healthy and free of root rot or root burn, there may be a humidity issue.
If this is the case, your plant will benefit from some extra humidity, whether this be from a humidifier, grouping houseplants closer together, or positioning the container on top of a water-filled pebble tray.
Fertilizing
Philodendrons are generally medium to heavy feeders. As mentioned, even without a regular nutrient boost, your plant will probably survive – though it may not grow as prolifically as it could.
It will benefit from a monthly helping of nitrogen-rich fertilizer during most of the year, though a solution diluted by half is often recommended, erring on the side of caution to prevent fertilizer salt buildup or nutrient burn.
Most philodendrons have a growing season and a dormant season. During the cooler winter dormant season, they require fertilizer only every six to eight weeks.
Light
The light requirements of philodendrons vary depending on species.
For many species, south or west facing windows with a light curtain filtering the sunlight are perfect. If natural light is unavailable, grow lights can be used.
Outdoors, philodendrons do well in partially shaded areas under trees. Full sunlight may cause the leaves of most species to become yellowish or develop sunburn spots.
Variegated cultivars will need a little more light than non-variegated members of the same species.
Climate Needs
As tropical plants, philodendrons prefer temperatures between 70 and 85°F.
They do not tolerate nighttime temperatures less than 55°F well, though they may survive short periods with temperatures as low as 36°F. They prefer 60-70 percent humidity.
Keep your plant away from doors or open windows when the outdoor conditions are not within the above parameters to prevent drafts and sudden changes in temperature.
Growing Tips
Only water as needed, when the top two inches of soil become dry
Provide bright, indirect sun
Use a high nitrogen fertilizer diluted by 50 percent
Adjust water and fertilizer according to growing season
Maintain 70-85°F during the day and keep well out of cold drafts
Pruning and Maintenance
Although philodendrons don’t require pruning, they don’t mind it either, allowing you to shape your plant to suit your space.
Pruning can also be done if your plant is starting to look leggy or the lower leaves are dropping off.
It’s best to cut above a leaf node to encourage branching and to create a more full appearance. The pieces that you’ve cut away may then be used to start new plants, as described above in the section on propagating cuttings.
With so many species and varieties of philodendron, there’s a plant for pretty much any space, from small tabletop centerpieces to large specimens for the patio or living room.
Here are a few favorites:
McColley’s Finale
P. x ‘McColley’s Finale’ is a relatively small plant with green, orange, and red foliage.
Leaves start out orange when they are first forming, progressing to a bright red, and finally turning dark green as they mature.
One of the most common types due to their ease of care and rapid growth, more often than not, they are grown in baskets with vines that spill nicely over the edge in a lush, jungly display.
Plants like bright indirect light, but not direct sun.
Mealybugs are easy to spot, leaving a white, fluffy residue on the stems and leaves of plants. They suck juices from plants, weakening and even killing them in severe cases.
Mealybugs also secrete honeydew, a substance that encourages fungal disease.
To control these pests, wipe them off with a paper towel moistened with rubbing alcohol, and apply neem oil according to package directions.
This is a disease of overwatered plants that will often manifest as yellow or brownish leaves that eventually fall off.
To the untrained eye, these symptoms may be seen as evidence of a lack of water, and newbies often further exacerbate the problem by adding more water.
Root rot is caused by fungi (Rhizoctonia spp. and Pythium spp.) that attack the plant’s root system, preventing the uptake of moisture and nutrients.
Badly infected plants may not be able to recover and you might need to dispose of them to prevent the infection from spreading to your other houseplants.
If your plant is infected, the best thing to do is prevent further spread of the disease.
Unpot, remove any slimy, rotten portions of the roots, and transplant into fresh soil that drains well, in a container with adequate drainage holes that isn’t overly large.
Although there is limited information available about the strategy, I’ve found with other plants that watering with three percent hydrogen peroxide until it shows signs of recovery helps a lot.
It makes sense that this would work, since hydrogen peroxide is a natural fungicide.
Bacterial Leaf Spot
Caused by Erwinia bacteria, leaf spot spreads in wet conditions and may appear as blackened lesions on foliage. If the lesions dry out, spots may turn into holes.
Whole leaves may be infected, causing them to drop from the plant. And as an added bonus, another symptom of this disease is an unpleasant fishy odor.
To prevent this type of infection, avoid overhead watering and water directly at the soil level instead. Clean up any fallen leaves promptly and dispose of them.
Best Uses
Self-heading philodendrons are often used for landscaping where the climate allows, making beautiful and unique specimen plants for a variety of situations, depending on the overall size and sun requirements.
Indoors, smaller plants can be used as tabletop decorations while larger ones are best placed in containers at floor level.
Vining philodendrons can be placed in hanging baskets or can be trained to grow on a trellis as a wall covering. They work nicely as vine components of multi-plant containers.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Vining or self-heading evergreen perennial
Foliage Color:
Burgundy, green, orange, red, variegated
Native to:
South and Central America
Soil Type:
Rich, sandy loam, loose
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
9-12 (outdoors)
Soil pH:
5.0-6.0
Exposure:
Bright, indirect light, shade, depending on species
brasil, erubescens, hastatum, hederaceum, micans, selloum
Common Pests:
Mealybugs, scale, spider mites
Common Diseases:
Root rot, bacterial leaf spot
Fill Your Den with Philodendrons
Whether you’re gardening in a tropical climate or you live somewhere near the Arctic Circle, philodendrons offer many possibilities for brightening your garden or home with lush foliage.
From heart-leaved light green vines that will stretch across your living room ceiling, to compact, pinstriped dwarves, to the massive, finger-like leaves of selloum, philodendrons are a must-have for indoor and outdoor living spaces.
Are you growing philodendrons? Let us know in the comments section below and feel free to share a picture!
And for more information about growing houseplants, check out these guides next:
Are you looking for a nutritious way to use your excess garden vegetables? Making your own vegetable broth is a perfect solution. Not only is it healthier and tastier than store-bought broth, but it’s also a great way to reduce food waste. Fresh garden vegetable broth & stock is one of my favorite ways to use celery leaves, bolted onions, and carrot greens — parts of vegetables that might otherwise go to waste. As a bonus, when you make this broth your house smells amazing!
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Step 1: Gather your ingredients for fresh garden vegetable broth & stock
My favorite part about this recipe is how adaptable it is. Use the vegetables you have on hand. You’ll need a mix of seasonal vegetables such as onions, carrots, celery, garlic, parsley, thyme, rosemary, and any other vegetable scraps you have on hand. You can also add some bay leaves and peppercorns to enhance the flavor.
Using a variety of vegetables will help build a complex and nuanced flavor in your vegetable stock. Additionally, vegetable scraps (like carrot tops, celery leaves, and onion peels) can add extra flavor and help reduce food waste.
Are there any vegetables to avoid when making vegetable broth?
While there are no hard and fast rules about what vegetables to avoid adding to vegetable broth, some vegetables can add an unpleasant taste or texture to the final product. Here are a few vegetables you may wish to avoid adding to your broth:
Brassicas: Vegetables like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and cabbage can add a strong, bitter taste to your broth. If you do choose to use these vegetables, use them sparingly.
Eggplant: Eggplant can make the broth thick and slimy, so it’s best to avoid using it.
Beets: Beets can give your broth a deep red color, but they can also make it taste earthy and less versatile.
Artichokes: Artichokes can give your broth a slightly unpleasant aftertaste.
Overall, it’s important to use vegetables that complement each other and add flavor without overpowering the broth. Unsure about what to use? Stick to more neutral vegetables like carrots, onions, garlic, and celery, then experiment with herbs and spices to create a flavorful broth.
Basic Vegetable Stock Recipe
This recipe is very adaptable; use it as a guide for the amounts of vegetables you add:
2 large carrots (including leaves)
2 stalks of celery (including leaves)
1 large onion
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bunch of green onions, chopped
8 cloves garlic, minced
8 sprigs of fresh parsley
6 sprigs of fresh thyme
2 large bay leaves
1 tablespoon peppercorns
1 teaspoon salt*
2 quarts water
* A note about salt: You can add salt if desired. However, I usually wait and add salt as needed when I use the broth rather than adding it to the broth itself.
Step 2: Wash and chop your vegetables
Next, you’ll want to wash your vegetables thoroughly and remove any soil or dirt. Then, chop them into medium-sized pieces. Don’t worry about peeling the vegetables, as the skin contains valuable nutrients that will add to the flavor and nutrition of the broth.
Step 3: Cook the vegetables
For the most flavor, begin by either roasting the vegetables or sautéing vegetables.
To roast vegetables: Toss vegetables (not greens) with olive oil and put on a sheet pan. Place pan in 400°F (204°C) oven and roast, stirring once until golden brown and tender (about 45 minutes).
To sauté vegetables: Heat oil in the stock pot or pan over high heat. Add herbs and vegetables (not greens). Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften and begin to brown (5 -10 minutes).
In a large stock pot, add the vegetables and greens, and cover them with enough water to fully submerge them. Bring the pot to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Let the vegetables simmer for an hour for vegetable broth or at 2-3 hours for stock, stirring occasionally, until they release flavor and the broth turns a deep golden color.
The difference between vegetable broth and vegetable stock is quite similar to that between broth and stock made with meat:
Vegetable broth is usually made by simmering vegetables, along with some herbs, in water for a shorter period of time, usually about an hour. The result is a lighter, thinner liquid that has a more pronounced vegetable flavor. Vegetable broth is commonly used in recipes where the vegetable flavor is the star of the dish, such as vegetable soups and stews.
Stock, on the other hand, is made by simmering vegetables, herbs, and sometimes mushrooms over a longer period of time (four to six hours). This longer cooking time extracts more nutrients and results in a thicker, more flavorful liquid. Stock is often used as a base for soups, stews, and sauces.
The key difference between the two is the cooking time and the resulting thickness and flavor intensity. Vegetable broth is lighter and has a more pronounced vegetable flavor. Vegetable stock has a more complex, subtle flavor as a result of the longer cooking time. However, the terms are often used interchangeably, and the differences between them can be subtle.
Step 4: Strain and store the vegetable broth (or stock)
Once the broth or stock has finished simmering, remove it from the heat and let it cool for a few minutes. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth to remove any solids.
Use broth in various dishes such as soups, stews, and sauces. It’s also delicious to sip as a warm and comforting drink on a chilly day.
Vegetable broth is an affordable and nutritious way to reduce food waste and add more veggies to your diet. So, next time you have an abundance of garden vegetables, consider making fresh garden vegetable broth and enjoy its many benefits.
Printable copy of recipe:
Garden Vegetable Broth & Stock
Ingredients:
2 large carrots (including leaves)
2 stalks of celery (including leaves)
1 large onion
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bunch of green onions, chopped
8 cloves garlic, minced
8 sprigs of fresh parsley
6 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 tablespoon peppercorns
1 teaspoon salt *(You can add salt if desired. However, I usually wait and add salt as needed when using the broth rather than adding it to it.)
2 large bay leaves
2 quarts water
Other possibilities based on the season include asparagus, corn cobs, fennel, bell peppers, peas, Swiss chard, squash, oregano, and basil.
Vegetables you may wish to avoid adding to your broth: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage, eggplant, beets, and artichokes.
Directions:
Wash your vegetables thoroughly and remove any soil or dirt. Then, chop them into medium-sized pieces.
For the most flavor, begin by either roasting the vegetables or sautéing vegetables.
To roast vegetables: Toss vegetables (not greens) with olive oil and put on a sheet pan. Place pan in 400°F (204°C) oven and roast, stirring once until golden brown and tender (about 45 minutes).
To sauté vegetables: Heat oil in the stock pot or pan over high heat. Add herbs and vegetables (not greens). Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften and begin to brown (5 -10 minutes).
Add the vegetables and greens to a large stock pot, and cover them with enough water to fully submerge them.
Bring the pot to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Let the vegetables simmer for an hour for vegetable broth or 2-3 hours for stock, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables release their flavor and the broth turns a deep golden color.
Once the broth or stock has finished simmering, remove it from the heat and let it cool slightly. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth to remove any solids.
Once the broth has completely cooled, store it in airtight jars or containers with leak-proof lids and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for longer storage (up to 6 months).
If you enjoyed this post about fresh garden vegetable broth & stock, please share it:
I know, you thought you were reading an article on a gardening website, and here we are talking about some sort of new haircut?
Nah, the Chelsea chop isn’t the latest lob. It’s actually a method of pruning flowers to encourage more blossoms and stronger growth.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Knowing when to use the Chelsea chop and how to make use of it can completely change up your garden.
It improves blooming, allows you to change up the blossoming schedule, and can prop up droopy stems.
This guide will help you, from start to finish. Here’s what we’re talking about:
What Is the Chelsea Chop?
The Chelsea chop was popularized at the Chelsea Flower Show in London, England, though gardeners were informally using this method of pruning long before.
Exhibit at the Chelsea Flower Show. Editorial credit: Natalia Vestigio Services / Shutterstock.com
For tall, herbaceous perennials, this is a fantastic method to know and use. Especially if you have plants that tend to want to reach for the sun, so they end up looking a little lopsided.
Each stem you chop will be encouraged to form side shoots, meaning you’ll have more blossoms than you would have had otherwise.
It doesn’t take much to make this method happen. You simply need sharp, clean secateurs or scissors.
The other vital tool is a bit of bravery on your part. I know it feels a bit scary to whack a plant down without any finesse. But I promise, it will all work out in the end.
When to Prune
The key to doing the Chelsea chop right is nailing the timing.
It won’t do you any good at all if you slice down your plants in the fall. Well, it might, but then you won’t be doing the Chelsea chop method.
For those living in England (and areas with a similar climate, like the Pacific Northwest), the timing is simple.
Just wait for the good old Chelsea Flower Show to roll around, and it’s time to go to work. This happens in late May, in case you aren’t up on your Royal Horticultural Society goings-on.
For everyone else, adjust accordingly. If you’re a bit more north in North America, you’re probably looking at mid-June.
Those in warmer coastal or southern climates should probably be ready to go to work in late April.
You’re looking to trim when the plants have developed a good amount of height but aren’t budding out yet. And it isn’t the end of the world if you do it just a bit late or early. That’s the beauty of this simple process.
How to Make the Cut
When we are pruning our fruit trees and roses, we have to take such care to really nail the right cuts.
Cut just above an outward-facing node. Make the cut at an exact 45-degree angle. Remove all but five canes. You probably know the drill.
One of the nice things about this method is that it isn’t at all precise. If you had a lawn mower with a tall enough blade, you could do it that way.
To make the cut, you can simply grab a handful of stems and chomp your way through them using your clippers. You want to trim each plant down by one-half to one-third.
You certainly don’t have to make the cuts even and straight. If you want, trim the plants a bit unevenly to create more of a wild, natural look. Or trim them higher in the back and shorter in the front for a bit of a border effect.
When you trim the entire plant, you delay flowering by at least a month. This can be helpful if you have a garden bed full of different plants that bloom all at the same time and you want to extend the display a bit.
If you don’t want to wait an extra month for the flowers to show up, there’s a second method to try, and we’ll discuss that next.
Go Halfway
The second way of doing the Chelsea chop is to only cut about half of the stems. Go in there with your pruners and cut down about half of the stems at random.
The benefit of doing it this way is that you will still have flowers at the normal time as well as others that bloom later, there will just be fewer of them.
The other benefit is that the shorter stems will support the tall flower heads, so they’ll be less prone to toppling over.
If you’ve ever had a big patch of floppy flowers, you know how annoying it is when they look all splayed out and weak.
Doing the half chop is basically a natural method of propping up your flowers. It’s like staking them to hold them up without using any actual stakes.
Plus, it extends the flowering period because the stems that you cut will still grow and bloom, they’ll just do it later than the ones you didn’t cut down.
The Plants You Can Chop
This isn’t the right method for annuals or woody perennials. Stick to those plants that are (primarily) herbaceous and grow in big clumps, such as:
Give ‘Em the Chop
There really isn’t much to the Chelsea chop, but it can have an oversized impact on the blossoming of your plants.
Are you going to give this method a go this spring? What plants will you be using it on? Give us an update in the comments.
In 2021, we had great success with our pumpkin patch.
I planted multiple hills in the terrible soil at The Sand Pit of Death where we used to rent, fortifying each hill with ashes and kitchen scraps – particularly meat and bones.
We had a good year!
In 2022, I saved chicken guts and buried them in the pumpkin holes, and we planted about four times as much area with a mix of C. moschata and C. maxima pumpkin varieties. This is me in the pumpkin patch.
Yet we got nothing.
Nothing!
First it was too cold, then too wet, then too dry, then too wet. Animals dug into the hills, vine borers tore up the vines, plants turned yellow and failed to thrive…
It was the worst year we’ve ever had for gardening. Our grain corn failed as well.
The only thing that really did well was the yams and the cassava.
This meant, unfortunately, that I lost a year in my pumpkin landrace breeding project.
Now we are trying again.
This year, instead of using chicken guts in the hills, we are using compost.
We knocked over the pallet compost pile yesterday and dug down into it for some good stuff.
You can see all the paper plates and paper towels and other rough stuff that was at the top. This pile has been continuously fed with various scraps and paper and mulch and peanut hay since August of last year. There’s at least a few five gallon buckets of good material we uncovered at the bottom. In the photo, I’ve already harvested two buckets of compost.
Which I then took to the area the pigs have cleared for us, and mixed with the native soil to make pumpkin hills.
There are about ten finished and planted hills now. In between the hills we planted cassava, which should grow above the pumpkins quite happily.
The soil here is much better than at our previous location, so we’ll hope for the best for both crops.
Making Pumpkin Hills
To make these pumpkin hills, we use a grub hoe to chop a little hole in the ground. We then put a few cups of compost in the hole, then mound up some earth on it, then add some more compost to that mound. When that’s done, we smooth the top over a little bit by hand, then put three seeds in each hill.
I truly hope this year’s pumpkins grow. It was weird to go from a good pumpkin year to an absolute zero-yield year. We usually have great luck with amended piles.
In other news, two big spools of half-rotten, unsprayed hay were delivered to the garden last night. It’s mulching time.
And maybe time to make a serious hot compost pile via alternating manure and hay layers!
Stokes’ asters, Stokesia laevis syn. Carthamus laevis, are perennials in the Asteraceae or daisy family.
They’re native to the southeastern United States and grow well in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
Botanical species and cultivated varieties are available in shades of blue, pink, purple, white, and yellow. The size and composition of the flower heads make them some of the showiest asters.
Our guide to growing asters discuss cultivation, maintenance, troubleshooting for species and cultivated varieties.
This article zeroes in on growing and caring for Stokes’ asters.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Let’s begin!
What Are Stokes’ Asters?
Unlike many native asters with blossoms measuring an inch or less across, Stokes’ offer generous two- to four-inch flowers with deeply divided rays with a shredded tissue paper, fringe-and-frills quality.
They generally begin blooming in mid to late summer and continue into the fall, but sometimes they delight with a few spring blossoms, a tantalizing promise of more to come.
Plants have an upright, clumping growth habit. There is a basal mound of foliage.
The leaves are narrow, lance-like, and semi-evergreen, remaining green in the warmest regions and bronzing toward season’s end in cooler climes.
Mature dimensions are 12 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide.
Cultivation and History
In nature, S. laevis often grows in stream beds with sandy, well-draining soil. The blossoms resemble wild cornflowers, Centaurea cyanus, with similar finely cut rays.
Cultivated plants perform well with full sun and prefer consistent moisture. In the warmest zones, growing in filtered sunlight helps to foster a moist environment.
Once mature, plants exhibit above-average drought and heat tolerance.
Stokes’ asters were named to honor renowned British physician and botanist John Stokes, who studied the medicinal properties of foxglove, Digitalis, and was a member of the Linnean Society of London.
Propagation
To start plants of your own, you’ll need seeds, nursery plants, soft stem cuttings, or divisions of existing plants. Find instructions for each method in our aster propagation guide.
To direct-sow seeds, moisten the soil.
Scatter a few seeds on the surface every 18 to 24 inches.
Keep the soil moist, but not oversaturated.
When the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, thin them to one per interval.
To transplant seedlings started indoors, nursery plants, soft stem cuttings, or divisions, take note of their depth in the original setting and replicate it when you place them in the garden soil.
Tamp the soil firmly around the stems, water, and tamp again.
How to Grow
After the danger of frost has passed in the spring, choose a location with full sun or filtered sun/part shade in the warmest regions.
The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-draining, with a pH of 5.2 to 6.7. Poorly draining soil may result in root rot, especially during the winter.
Work the soil to a depth of eight to 10 inches until it is crumbly. Remove rocks and debris.
Apply a well-balanced, slow-release, granular fertilizer to plants ranging in size from seedlings to nursery specimens.
Sprinkle the granules on the moist soil around, but not touching, the stems.
Maintain an inch of water per week, rain included.
Growing Tips
It’s easy to grow S. laevis when you remember the following:
A sunny location is best except in the warmest zones, where filtered sunlight helps to retain soil moisture.
Moist soil is essential, but it must be loose and well-draining to avoid rotting.
Sow seeds on the soil surface and transplants at the same depth as in their original settings.
Fertilize plants with a well-balanced granular product.
Maintain even moisture, an inch per week.
With planting done, it’s time to discuss ongoing care.
Pruning and Maintenance
You’ll find S. laevis is one of the lower maintenance garden flowers. However, there are a few chores that support their best performance.
Divide large clumps every two to three years in early spring or early fall to prevent overcrowding, stimulate new root formation, and promote optimal blooming.
Fertilize each spring with a well-balanced, slow-release, granular product.
Cut the stems down to the basal mound of foliage at season’s end and discard the remains to inhibit wintering over pests and diseases.
In cooler climes, a three-inch layer of mulch helps to insulate and facilitate drainage during the winter.
Cultivars to Select
When shopping, you may find botanical species S. laevis and cultivated varieties.
Here are some cultivars to whet your appetite:
Honeysong
S. laevis ‘Honeysong’ boasts four-inch pinkish-purple blossoms with white, frilly eyes and fringed rays.
S. laevis ‘Peachie’s Pick’ offers lavender-blue blossoms up to three inches across with white eyes and all the frills and fringe one would expect from a top-performing Stokes’ cultivar.
You’ll find a varied color palette awaits when you shop.
Managing Pests and Disease
S. laevis and its cultivars are not typically prone to pests or disease.
However, when conditions are too wet, they may be more prone to slugs and snails, as well as fungal conditions like Fusarium wilt and powdery mildew.
To avoid pests and disease, purchase high-quality plants or seeds, space generously for ample air circulation, grow in well-draining soil with full to filtered sun, and maintain even moisture without oversaturation.
Best Uses
A showy native flower like Stokes’ aster is an excellent choice for mass-planting in butterfly, cottage, and cutting gardens, where it can spread and attract bees and butterflies.
It also performs well en masse in moist areas like stream banks.
While you may read that plants are deer and rabbit resistant, I have seen the damage to confirm the contrary regarding deer, so take this information with a grain of salt.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous flowering perennial
Flower / Foliage Color:
Blue, pink, purple, white, yellow/green
Native to:
Southeastern United States
Tolerance:
Drought, heat, light shade
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
5-9
Maintenance:
Low
Bloom Time/Season:
Late spring-summer
Soil Type:
Sandy, loose
Exposure:
Full sun
Soil pH:
5.2-6.7
Spacing:
18-24 inches
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Surface sow (seeds); same depth as originally planted (transplants)
Stokes’ asters are showier than many of their native perennial cousins, with their two- to four-inch flowers in shades of blue, pink, purple, white, and yellow.
And unlike their shade-loving relatives, Stokes’ grow in full sun but appreciate a little shade in the warmest zones.
Also unique are their preferences for sandy soil that drains well, and a perpetual need for moisture, especially when growing in full sun.
And finally, sporadic spring blooms may precede the summer-to-fall flowering they have in common with their late-season counterparts.
For a showy flower that commands attention and attracts beneficial pollinators, add the Stokes’ species, S. laevis, to your garden planner and feature it in your latest garden design.
Are you growing these flowers? Let us know in the comments section below.
Carrots are one of our family’s favorite vegetables to grow in the garden. We love the flavor of homegrown carrots; there is nothing quite like pulling up a carrot, rinsing it with the hose, and eating it right in the garden. Learn how to grow carrots with these five tips.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How to Grow Carrots: 5 Tips for Growing Carrots
1. How to grow carrots: Plant carrots from seeds directly in the garden
Sow carrot seeds directly in the garden. Carrot seeds are tiny and notoriously tricky to germinate (see tip #3 for germination tips).
Seed tape makes spacing carrots quick and easy. Carrot seeds are embedded into the tape at correct spacing intervals and require less thinning later.
Pelleted seeds are larger and easier to handle; this allows for more consistent spacing.
Do not purchase carrot transplants. Carrot roots do not like to be transplanted.
Seed vendors offer carrot colors such as purple, white, red, yellow, and, of course, orange. Home gardeners can also choose from many shapes and sizes.
Danvers varieties are sweet, crisp, full-flavored, and easy for the home gardener to grow. Best for eating fresh and shorter storage.
Imperator varieties have less flavor but store well. (This is the variety commonly found in grocery stores.)
Chantenay varieties are good all-purpose carrots that can handle heavy soils.
Nantes types are best for fresh eating; often considered the sweetest and most tender type of carrots.
2. Learn how to grow carrots and take advantage of the long planting season for growing carrots
Start carrot seeds outside 3-5 weeks before the last spring frost. Many locations often have an additional planting in mid to late summer. Check local planting guides for when you can plant.
In the low desert of Arizona, plant carrots from September 15 through March.
Plant carrot seeds when soil temperatures are between 45°F – 85°F.
Carrots taste best when they come to maturity in cool soil (under 70°F / 21°C).
Choose an area with sandy, well-drained soil that is free from stones and fresh manure. Rake and smooth the bed carefully before planting.
Thinly sow seeds ¼ inch deep.
Plant carrots every 3 weeks for a continual harvest.
3. Carrots need consistent moisture to sprout and grow
After planting, soil must be kept moist for 10 days. Spray lightly twice a day in very sunny weather. Seeds will not germinate if they dry out.
During hot weather, cover the planted seeds with burlap to keep the seeds moist. Remove the burlap once sprouts appear.
Once seeds have sprouted, regular watering helps them grow quickly and continuously.
Watch the video below for a quick tip for germinating carrot seeds.
4. Thin carrot seedlings for larger carrots
Thinning the carrots ensures each carrot has enough room to reach mature size.
Two weeks after the plants germinate, thin any carrots that touch each other.
In another two weeks, thin carrots to 2 or 3 inches apart.
Use scissors to cut off young seedlings rather than pulling them by hand.
5. Harvest and store carrots correctly
Harvest the largest carrots first to give the smaller carrots room to develop. Fully-developed carrots will have a bit of blunting at the end of the tip and have good flavor.
If you aren’t sure if carrots are ready to harvest, remove soil from around the tops of the carrot roots. Harvest carrots when tops are about 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. The top may begin to “pop” out of the soil.
Leave carrots in the ground until ready to eat, but harvest carrots before the heat of the summer if you live in very hot places like Arizona. (The heat can turn them bitter.)
A tip to remember — the shorter variety carrots are best eaten fresh, while longer carrots are more suited to storing.
Carrots store best if you clip the foliage, leaving about 1 inch of stem. If you leave the greens on the carrots, they draw moisture out of them, causing limp carrots.
Let washed carrots air dry before storing them in the refrigerator. Store them in a sealed ziplock-style bag, and they will last for months.
When you are ready to use harvested carrots, scrub but don’t peel them! Many vitamins are in the skin or close to the surface.
We all know ginger – a tasty culinary herb (or, more accurately, a spice) that you can buy practically anywhere.
Whether you’re using the whole root, paste, or powdered form, it’s a spice any seasoned cook will reach for, especially when they want an easy way to add a dash of Asian flavor to their dishes.
You don’t see ginger farms sprawling across the countryside of Europe or America. Now, why is that?
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
The answer is simple: ginger is a tropical plant, and it’s fairly hard to grow in regions that are less warm and humid.
But there are options and methods that will let you propagate this culinary specialty herb at home. Here’s what’s ahead in this article:
Follow along as we explore the various options.
Where Does It Come From?
Most of the ginger that arrives in our markets and on our tables was cultivated in southern China, India, Indonesia, or West Africa.
In the native countries where ginger originates, the rhizome (not technically a root, though it’s similar) can grow aplenty as a commercial spice, or even in home backyard gardens.
It thrives in these tropical climes and has a penchant for spreading quite aggressively, even when planted as a garden perennial.
It would seem that ginger can indeed make it in some gardens in the US, but not all of them – it’s only suited to areas that are considered “tropical” or “sub-tropical.”
US Regions Where Ginger Can Grow Year-Round:
Southern Texas and Louisiana
Florida
Southern and coastal California, Central Valley
Southern Arizona
Hawaii
But the story is different for the rest of the non-tropical world.
So, if you’re a lover of ginger, is it possible to form a more personal relationship by growing it at home, even if you live in a colder temperate region?
Yes, it is!
There are a few tips to follow and tricks to it that may seem a bit daunting for beginner gardeners, but they’re a lot easier to achieve than you might think – and completely worth it if you want to enjoy your own homegrown version, for days and days to come.
Planting Time
First, you’ll need to locate some ginger rhizomes. These can be simply purchased from your local grocery store or farmers market, or you can order them online via Amazon.
Online retailers are particularly helpful if you want a cultivar other than standard culinary ginger.
If you are able to choose in person, select a root (or roots) that is on the large side and healthy, 4 to 6 inches long, with multiple “fingers” extending from it.
You’ll want to find a location that’s in full to partial shade with rich, loamy, and well-draining soil for planting. This is naturally an understory plant that thrives in hot and humid jungle-like conditions with dappled sunlight.
Ginger can be grown directly in the ground or in pots (more on that later).
To plant ginger:
Amend with compost or aged manure if your soil is lacking.
Plant in early spring if possible. If you live in a warmer climate, you can plant at any time.
Slice off the fingers, making sure each rhizome piece is 1 to 2 inches long with at least one bud.
Allow the pieces to dry for 24-48 hours before planting, as this helps to control for possible root rot.
Plant cut sections at least 12 inches apart no deeper than 1 inch. For commercial cultivation, ginger is usually planted in double rows 1 foot apart with a working path between rows.
Water well after planting.
Leaves will emerge after about 1 week.
Water sparingly but deeply after you see growth.
Your ginger will grow up to four feet tall and many of the roots will appear above ground, which is natural for this type of plant.
What About Colder Climates?
Have you ever tried growing this tasty item in your garden year-round?
According to the USDA Hardiness Zones map, if the answer is “yes” and you live in growing zone 8 or lower, you were probably disappointed to find that your ginger didn’t sprout back up when you checked it in the spring.
What’s a “Hardiness” Zone?
These are designated, climate-dependent regional categories that help a gardener determine what he or she can or cannot grow.
According to these zones, ginger may only grow year-round in zone 9 or higher.
In the US, roughly anywhere north of southern Texas, Florida, and southern Arizona, and stretching up towards the Pacific Northwest, Mid-Atlantic, and New England couldn’t possibly host ginger year-round.
You wouldn’t be able to plug it into your garden along with the mint, sage, parsley, or rosemary, sadly. And it won’t do well with the horseradish either, since that plant perhaps surprisingly prefers cooler climes.
So what’s the defining line between zones 8 and 9? What makes ginger grow well in one area, and not in another?
As a tropical rhizome, this Asian perennial can only stand temperatures around 50°F or higher. Anything lower simply makes ginger unhappy – damaging it, triggering “dormancy,” and at worst, killing it off completely.
Farmers, gardeners, and growers among my friends and community members have consistently reported that their ginger “shuts down” anywhere under 55°F. That is, the above-ground foliage yellows, shrivels, dries, and sheds itself until there’s nothing left.
Forget first frost. We’re talking about sweater weather.
But don’t worry – in most cases, this means that the plant has just gone dormant, or is “sleeping” until warmer times return. If you touch the rhizome with your fingers, you will feel that it is indeed still hard, yet tender and alive.
If you want a vibrant, beautiful ginger plant to grow year-round, you will have to make sure that it hangs out in temps above 55°F at all times, optimally between 55 and 60°F at the coolest. If it gets any colder, then this indicates to the rhizome that it’s time for a long hibernation until spring! And unfortunately, it may not survive.
If temperatures reach below freezing, 32°F with frost, you can expect not only for the foliage to die off, but for the rhizome to shrivel and become lifeless. Frost cannot be tolerated whatsoever – even if exposed to temperatures in the low 40’s repeatedly, it just doesn’t thrive naturally.
If you plant in growing zones where it CAN flourish, ginger will go dormant during the winter months, triggered by less light and colder temperatures. Then it will come back in the spring, without a worry.
5 Tips for Growing in Colder Regions
Fortunately, there are some simple tricks to get your ginger away from its frigid foe in more temperate areas– and onto your plate by your very own green thumb, even during the coldest of seasons!
1. Pot It
In order to have delicious, pungent cooking ginger of your very own that’s ready to harvest when you need it, it’s going to have to be quite mobile.
At any warning or suspicion of threatening temperatures in fall or spring, you’ll need to move it indoors quickly – all the more reason why you should keep ginger growing in pots.
When winter comes around, if you haven’t already, it’ll be time to whisk your potted plant inside, where it can be happy and verdant!
Where Can I Get a Rhizome to Start?
Many buy the whole rhizome from their local grocery store, pot it, and see it sprout up shortly after moistening the soil.
I have seen this work myself, and it’s so satisfying!
What If It Doesn’t Sprout?
Try again with a purchase from a different source, until you find a rhizome that still has some life in it. Or better yet, make your purchase from a trusted nursery that sells rhizomes intended for gardening, rather than immediate cooking.
What Size and Type of Pot Should I Use?
Pot rhizomes in containers where they can grow and spread to an even bigger size. It’ll want to stretch its legs!
Make sure the pot is well-draining, and the soil is a rich, fertile, absorbent variety – not dry or sandy.
What About Moving It Inside?
When you first shift your plant to the indoors, having those easy-to-move pots is very helpful in finding that perfectly warm spot where this exotic herb can hang out – until warmer times.
And If It’s Just Not Warm Enough?
You can move it effortlessly to a new spot, and see how it fares. Try a four-season porch, greenhouse, or even a low-tunnel or high-tunnel in a shady spot.
Caring for your potted spice is so simple. Once temperatures climb above freezing again, all you have to do is set your plant out on the stoop or porch.
Or, you may choose to give it its very own special place in your garden.
2. Transplant Seasonally
If you’re more of an expert and you have the time, you can transplant these in and out of your garden every year, instead of keeping them in pots.
When it’s warm enough, it’s time to sow your rhizomes – and when cold weather looms, just dig them back up, and nurse them in pots indoors.
Digging up the rhizome doesn’t hurt it, if you’re gentle. But if you want to see your ginger flourishing outside, then you’ll have to also keep an eagle eye on weather fluctuations to ensure its safety!
Like those in pots, make sure you plant your newly-purchased rhizome in fertile, well-draining soil that absorbs water well.
Give it some water and with luck, you’ll see it come back to life, even after being dormant in the produce aisle for a time.
3. It’s Not Just About Temperature
Getting the temperature turned up enough for your plant to really thrive is only the beginning. After you get its warmth and comfort just right, there are a couple other things to consider:
Soil Type Is Important
You’ll want to grow in the closest match to its native soil type as possible – which is a damp, fertile, rich, and humus-like soil that absorbs water, but doesn’t get soggy.
Water It
Soil type is ESPECIALLY important as it’s related to hydration, because you will need to water every day, always keeping the soil moist like what you’ll find in its native rainy environment.
To protect the roots from rot, water will also need to be able to drain away –muddy soil and “wet feet” will kill your plant, and ruin all your hard work.
Partial Shade to Light Sun
Ginger’s native clime is tropical, rainy, and forested. Keep your plants (or pots) out of full sun – consider putting them in the shade of a tree, or under a shadow-casting cloth.
Sure, you could grow it year-round if you’re located someplace like Arizona. But with the dry desert sun there, you’ll need something to both shade your plant and retain moisture – keep that in mind.
4. Harvest When You Want
What’s the true magic of growing your own? Being able to use it whenever you want!
You don’t have to be living in Hawaii, Florida, or Indonesia to have fresh ginger at the ready.
The wonderful thing about growing it in temperate areas is that you can harvest some of the rhizome straight from the pot to your kitchen – without causing harm to the plant at all.
That’s right: it’s real handy to grow ginger in easy-to-manage pots, even indoors, and you can even take what you need and leave the rest to grow!
How to Harvest
The most common way: just dig it up. Rinse away all of the dirt under cold running water, and go ahead and use it. With this method, you will need to grow multiple plants, or start again with a new starter rhizome if you want continual harvests. But don’t worry too much because, as we’ll get into later, if this plant is thriving, it will multiply.
To keep the rhizome alive: feel all the way down the above-ground shoot with your fingers, to the rhizome under the soil. Measuring at least two inches away from where the stalk meets the rhizome, cut away the rest of the root that is growing away from the plant.
Essentially, you want to leave two inches of the rhizome with stalk intact, and it will continue to grow.
You can use these cut portions in your cooking, while keeping the plant alive for future harvests!
However, do realize that after you cut all the ginger you can from a plant, you’ll need to give it time to recover. A minimum of a week’s rest is pretty typical.
5. Propagate Your Own
The lovely thing you’ll realize as you tend this flavorful delight is that it loves to spread.
Once your first pot or backyard rhizome swells in size and pushes up multiple stalks, sometimes even to the point of busting out of its container, you’ll know it’s time to start some new ginger. With time, you could have quite a few pots of this exotic spice!
Just cut away portions of the root that have their own stalk or “nodule,” leaving at least one stalk behind to remain in the pot. Make sure that each portion you cut away is at least 2-3 inches in length, or the plant won’t regenerate when you transplant it.
At this point, you could just eat what you cut away. But you can also take each new stalk of ginger that you have split off and replant it in another pot, or in your garden.
Follow the directions above, water it, then watch it grow!
Ginger Quick Reference Growing Chart
Plant Type:
Root Crop, Perennial
Tolerance:
Shade
Native to:
Tropical Africa, Asia
Maintenance:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
9-12
Soil Type:
Rich, loamy
Season:
Requires year round temperate conditions for outdoors cultivation
Soil pH:
Slightly acidic (5.5 to 6.5)
Exposure:
Partial to full shade
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Time to Maturity:
10 months for full maturity; 4 months for partial harvest
Companion Planting:
Green mulch, warm-climate loving plants that love rich soil
Spacing:
12 inches
Order:
Zingiberales
Planting Depth:
1 inch or less; lightly add soil over rhizomes as they grow and multiply
Long story short, yes, you can grow ginger practically anywhere. All it takes is a little finesse, a green thumb, diligence, and a sharp eye on weather changes for your local climate.
Even better, it’s possible to get quite the stock of plants up and running from one single root – so you can have ginger all year, or share the love by giving some away to your friends!
making, and maintaining, meadows, with owen wormser
Owen: When I’m planting with perennial native meadow seeds, I usually tell people it’s going to be at least two or three years before they really start to see those plants be a presence. And it often can be four or five years before a lot of those species are really present in a landscape.
Owen: I’ve been researching this and there’s a whole list that I’ve come up with and I’m trying to focus on things in my region. Something that really stands out are a type of 
Margaret: And how much do I intervene when I’m doing more harm than good, or what is the greater good? Can you give me any advice on that? Because I think other people probably have this experience, too, with sort of wilder areas of their garden. [Above, a front-yard planting of meadow species by Owen.]
Margaret: So then what about the sort of—aside from editing and making the decisions on how to intervene when it’s needed with invaders and so forth, and how aggressively—what about the sort of annual regimen of care? You have clients who have these meadows now that are in various stages of establishment. And so like mine, I tend to mow it once a year, not too early in favor of to try to protect all the creatures who are in there overwintering, as we’ve all been hearing about in recent years.
Margaret: It’s pretty great because again, even a place that I’ve known for so many decades, the same piece of land, when I’ve changed my methods or timing of interventions—there’s this one really steep spot, for instance, where it’s really hard for me as I’ve gotten older to take the push mower (it’s too steep for the tractor) which is 70 pounds or 80 pounds, and be on this really big tilt. And I’m like there with this giant thing, trying to out muscle the machine. So sometimes that area doesn’t get mowed very often.
