Dipladenia are popular spring plants adding a splash of color to outdoor spaces. These tropical plants display lush foliage and trumpet-shaped flowers. They grow in a variety of settings, from hanging baskets, climbing up a trellis to garden beds. For your Dipladenia plant to thrive, knowing how to care for it is important.
Dipladenia (dy-pla-DEE-nee-uh) common names include rocktrumpet, Brazilian jasmine, or Chilean jasmine and fall under the genus Mandevilla. The difference between Dipladenia and Mandevilla vine is in their growth habit.
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The spring favorite Mandevilla vine has a vertical growth habit. The Dipladenia plant is a bushy plant with downward, hanging growth.
The Dipladenia bush is a perennial, flowering evergreen plant in warm-winter locations and a member of the Apocynaceae family (Dogbane).
These flowering tropical vines originate from Brazil – specifically Rio de Janerio. They are found in Central and South America, Southwest United States, West Indies, and Mexico.
The most popular species is Dipladenia sanderi (Mandevilla sanderi). It is a woody climbing plant with shiny, opposite, elliptic leaves, trumpet-shaped flowers, pink with orange throat.
The bright, colorful appearance and attractive growth habit make the Dipladenia flowering plants an ideal choice for your garden or as a houseplant.
Dipladenia Plant Care
Size and Growth
Due to its tropical plant nature, it can flower for most of the year, even in cooler areas.
But it will have a shorter flowering period in such temperatures.
Dipladenia bush, has an upwards growth to a certain level after which it droops over the side of potted plants or hanging baskets and begins to trail downwards. Dipladenia foliage is typically glossy, deep green, and leathery in texture. The leaves are lance-shaped, elliptical and can be up to 5″ inches long.
You can train your plant to have a bushy growth by giving the plant support at the base and pinching out new growth.
Rio Dipladenia is a hardy plant in warm climates and is recommended for USDA hardiness zones 10 to 12. It can also be overwintered indoors.
Is a dipladenia an annual or perennial?
Dipladenia typically grows as an annual in colder climates and is moved indoors during the winter months. In warmer climates where temperatures don’t drop below freezing, it grows as a perennial.
Dipladenia Rio plants are bushy plants characterized by small, pointy green leaves with a slight, gloss-like sheen to them and are a shade of deep green.
It also has smaller, tube-shaped flowers in comparison to Mandevilla flowers. Blooms range from white flowers to pink and red with a soft fragrance.
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Light and Temperature
Rock trumpet plants are not one to shy away from the full sun (6 hours of direct sunlight daily) and do not need high humidity. However, in extremely hot climates (70° degrees Fahrenheit plus), they will benefit from some light shade over direct sunlight.
When you grow Dipladenia flowers indoors keep the plant in a sunny window.
It is not a very cold hardy plant. It requires warmer nighttime temperatures ranging from 65° to 70° degrees Fahrenheit.
It can be overwintered indoors if the temperatures are falling too low.
Mandevilla plant / Dipladenia will require good, well-drained potting soil.
A potting mix with good insulation and moisture will keep the plant from needing frequent transplanting.
When transplanting Dipladenia Mandevilla, try to retain as much of the roots as you can.
If transplanting a fully grown plant, ideally use a larger container, so the plant has more space to grow.
In the case of transplanting in the garden, the hole should be as deep as the plant’s root ball but much wider.
This allows the roots ample space to spread.
Grooming and Maintenance
To make Dipladenia bushier, prune tips back at the leaf node in the spring or fall. Prune above a leaf node or a lateral stem to encourage branching and create a fuller, bushier, more compact plant. This should be done when the plant is not in full flowering mode.
When pruning, use sharp, clean pruning shears. Additionally, pinch off stems tips to encourage more lateral branches. Regular liquid fertilizer can also help to promote bushier growth.
Finally, give the plant adequate sunlight and proper watering to encourage healthy, vigorous growth.
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How To Propagate and Grow Dipladenia?
Dipladenia propagation is done from vine cuttings.
Remove a mature vine and strip off the leaves around it.
These can be handled by spraying insecticide soap on the pests.
There is also a chance your plant will develop fungal diseases.
These can be handled fairly easily by using a fungicide to contain the spread.
Be careful when handling Dipladenia as their vines contain a skin-irritating sap.
Wear gloves while handling the plant.
Mealybugs are small, white, cottony pests that hide in the leaf axils and along the stems. They cause yellowing leaves and stunted growth. Control mealybugs by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, and spraying with Neem oil or insecticidal soap. When applying always follow the labeled instructions.
Rio flowers are great plants to use both as an ornamental indoor plant or in direct sunlight or full sun as a garden accent for container gardening on a deck and on patios.
Its bright colors are conducive to attracting butterflies, hummingbirds and bees.
Buy a new string trimmer
Clean up the main pasture’s fence line
Kill off cogongrass patches
Finish cutting down popcorn and mimosa trees in new nursery area
Run more strings for emerging yams
Move pigs
Plant pumpkins on former pig area
Plant patch of corn
Put T-posts to brace the two new cattle panel trellises
Plant runner beans on trellises
Foliar feed tobacco plants
Mulch tobacco plants with cut grass
Plant the two Florida crabapple trees
Plant Chickasaw plum
Plant the Nyssa ogeche tree by the pond
Finish editing the grafting video we did with Flomaton Famous
Film final parts of the giant Grocery Row Gardening video demonstration
Once nursery invasive trees cleared, call state and apply for license
Run new water line to nursery area
Get load of potting soil
Go through all old pots and re-sort them
Empty out dead plants and reclaim potting soil
Write the rest of Minimalist Gardening
Take a nap
Fragrant herbs can help deter certain insect pests, like whiteflies. And basil (Ocimum basilicum) is a fragrant herb that will help deter pests that could bother nearby okra.
Many agriculture experts agree that basil deters certain insect pests.
Still, even if that doesn’t work in your garden, basil has the auxiliary benefit of tasting great in stews made with okra, and attracting pollinators to your vegetable garden if it’s allowed to bloom.
The ‘Siam Queen’ variety typically used in Thai cooking is an extra aromatic choice with a strong licorice-anise scent and flavor.
If you opt for an edible flower window box, consider combining a red or short-pod okra plant with its hibiscus-like blooms and this Thai basil with magenta flowers.
‘Siam Queen’ is available in 200-seed packets from Burpee.
Another advantage of planting basil near okra is that both are annuals and grow only in warmer temperatures.
That means you can direct sow them at the same time or start them indoors on the same schedule.
And at season’s end, you can pull both from the garden plot at about the same time, a chore that’s trickier with many perennial herbs.
Learn to grow and care for Thai or sweet basil in our guides.
2. Beans
Like okra, beans, including Phaseolus vulgaris and P. lunatus species, thrive in direct sun and can grow in average soil as long as it drains well. There are two scenarios for growing the two together.
First, you can let the okra reach a foot tall and then plant pole beans so they can use the plant as a living trellis.
Or, you can grow bush beans at the foot of the okra plants to act as a living mulch for the soil.
In either scenario, the legumes will fix nitrogen in the soil, which is beneficial for the crops and whatever vegetables you plant in that same spot the following year.
I like the idea of planting lima or butter beans with okra companions because they’re both traditional Southern ingredients.
Because the limas take a while to reach maturity, about 60 to 70 days, they’ll be ready to harvest in late summer and early fall like the okra.
There are a couple of reasons why cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. reticulatus) makes a good companion for okra and vice versa.
Both are sun-loving plants that mature in around 50 to 70 days, so they can share space in a plot that receives ample sun. You can water them on the same schedule, though the okra won’t need quite as much.
While the okra grows upright, the cantaloupe can trail along the ground, which will help the soil retain moisture and prohibit weeds.
To grow these companions in a small-space garden, raised bed, or large container, consider planting ‘Minnesota Midget’ cantaloupe with vines that spread only three feet.
Find ‘Minnesota Midget’ seeds in various package sizes from Eden Brothers.
You’ll want to plan so the melon can receive morning sun and so you have room to get to both plants to water and harvest.
You don’t have to plant the okra in the same fertile soil you use for the cantaloupe, though – it doesn’t need as much nutrition.
To keep the melon vines from taking over before the okra gets started, consider starting the seeds indoors before planting them out.
If you’re already considering marigolds and oregano as companions, which we’ll describe in more detail below, they’re also suitable neighbors for cantaloupe, so that’s a win-win situation.
Cayenne is ready to pick about 80 days from transplant, so give it a head start on other garden veggies by sowing seeds indoors eight weeks ahead of your average last frost and then transplanting them out.
Cayenne pepper is available in 20-seed packets from Burpee.
Peppers also love warmer temperatures and need moderate watering, so you can tend to them at the same time as okra when rain doesn’t supply sufficient moisture in summer’s heat.
When you grow an herbaceous perennial like the coneflower near an annual vegetable, leave enough space between the two so you can uproot the annual at the season’s end.
If you neglect to clear plant debris in the fall, certain insect pests can overwinter and reappear next spring to demolish that year’s crop.
If it’s too complicated to separate the two once they’ve stopped blooming and producing, grow one or both varieties in containers so you can move and toss the plants at will.
Like their vining cantaloupe relatives, cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) make good companions because they also like full sun.
The cucumber plants can either suppress weeds as trailing vines or use the taller plant as a de facto trellis.
I like to grow ‘Homemade Pickles’ because it only reaches four or five feet long even though it’s a vining variety, so an okra plant will offer sufficient support.
Cucumbers are even more valuable as a companion than melons because they produce bushels of high-quality fruits if you keep them picked.
Time the harvest for both using your gardening calendar, and you can keep the two varieties picked for peak production throughout the summer and into early fall.
And the two veggies make delicious canned pickles if you end up with a bumper crop of one or both.
‘Vanilla’ African marigolds grow to 18 inches and have creamy blooms that complement red okra pods or the yellow blooms in an ornamental bed or an edible container garden.
Sometimes A. esculentus is more benefactor than beneficiary of our companion selections.
Just so with mesclun. This blend of baby leaf greens and herbs is sown and harvested in a spring mix, and it’s one of the first vegetables to appear in the spring garden.
If you plant it while temperatures are above freezing but below 50°F, the mesclun is ready to start harvesting in 30 days.
Here’s where okra comes in. By the time temperatures are in the 60s and it’s warm enough to transplant or sow, it’s starting to get too hot for mesclun.
But if you sow the okra indoors four to six weeks ahead of planting it out, you can place the seedlings where they’ll grow to shade the mesclun in increasingly hot weather, thereby extending the spring mix harvest for a couple of weeks or maybe more.
If you’re a fan of growing vegetables in containers, you can sow a more compact variety with mesclun sown in the same pot around the base of the larger plant.
That way, you can expand the growing season for one or both by moving the container indoors if it’s too cold for the okra or too warm for the mesclun.
Oregano is a perennial, and you might find it difficult to pull okra at the season’s end without destroying the herb at the same time.
You can work around that issue by potting up the oregano to winterize ahead of clearing the larger vegetable plants, planting so much oregano you don’t miss a few if they’re accidentally eliminated, or planting the oregano in containers you set near your raised bed – though that robs you of the ground cover benefit.
Conventional and organic ‘Cherry Belle’ seeds are available in various package sizes from Burpee.
At the rate radishes mature, you may have enough time to successively plant three or four harvests before the weather gets too warm for them or the okra steals their sun.
The edible pod peas known as snap peas, Pisum sativum var. macrocarpum, will also grow best in full sun and can thrive in average soil.
As companions, you’ll want to grow them for a fall harvest. That way, they can fix nitrogen in the soil alongside the okra, which only grows when the soil has warmed to a consistent 60°F.
This type of pea, though, needs chilly temperatures to flourish. If you sow vining snap pea seeds about 8 weeks before your first fall frost, they can scale the mature okra plants for support.
They may not be the prime focus of a floral arrangement, but filler flowers can be just as important as the stars of the show in a bouquet’s overall design. They are usually not as breathtaking, dramatic, or show-stopping as the flowers taking center stage, but a spray or two of fillers tucked into a display adds structure and volume, and provides contrasting colors/textures. These supporting players act as an attractive, invaluable backdrop.
4 Great Perennial Plants That Provide Great Filler Flowers for Bouquets
For long-lived, “plant once and forget about them” filler-flower choices, find space in your landscape to plant at least a couple of the following perennials and shrubs, and you’ll always have something wonderful to add character and textural interest to your bouquets.
‘Purple Pride’ Geraldton Waxflower
(Chamelaucium uncinatum ‘Purple Pride’, Zones 9–11)
Drought-tolerant and evergreen, this low-maintenance Australian shrub bears loose, airy sprays of rosy purple blooms from winter through midspring on graceful, fine-foliaged, lightly aromatic twigs and branches. It eventually reaches 6 to 10 feet tall and wide in full sun to partial shade.
Euphorbias are a stalwart of dry gardens everywhere, but their blooms are just as invaluable as fillers in a bouquet. Just watch out for that irritating sap!
This short, bushy, 12- to 18-inch mound of light green foliage blooms almost continuously from midwinter through late spring. Its stout, sturdy stems carry intriguing whorls of ruby-centered, bright chartreuse flowers. Plant it in full sun, and water lightly but regularly. Also, be aware that all euphorbias exude a milky sap when cut, so wear gloves to avoid irritation.
‘Hopley’s Purple’ oregano
(Origanum laevigatum ‘Hopley’s Purple’, Zones 6-9)
Long wands of airy purple blooms appear all summer and fall over this plant’s 2- to 3-foot mound of informal, arching, fragrant, deep green foliage. Its flowers are fabulous fresh or dried in arrangements and are adored by pollinators too! Sun-loving, drought tolerant, and deer resistant, ‘Hopley’s Purple’ oregano is happiest in well-drained soil.
If you’re looking for a pollinator magnet and a must-have filler-flower option, look no further than ‘Monte Cassino’ heath aster.
‘Monte Cassino’ heath aster
(Aster ericoides ‘Monte Cassino’, Zones 4–9)
A 3- to 4-f00t-tall pollinator magnet, ‘Monte Cassino’ produces airy clouds of petite white blooms nonstop from midsummer through fall. Sturdy stems carry the profuse, snowy flower clusters, making them the perfect bouquet ingredient. Easy to grow in full sun, with light to regular water, this is a perennial that no one should be without.
4 Great Fast-Growing Annuals That Produce Excellent Cut Flowers for Filling In Arrangements
Growing annual fillers is a fabulous way to experiment with various bloom forms and color palettes to flesh out your floral arrangements. Because annuals put all their energy into producing flowers, they’re definitely the way to go if spring-through-fall flower volume is your primary goal. There are so many interesting choices, but the following fast-growing, floriferous sun lovers are among my favorites.
Not often thought of as a go-to cut flower, snapdragons are perfect for giving bouquets a much-needed sturdy structure.
These lofty, vigorous plants quickly reach 3 to 4 feet tall and generously produce long, sturdy flower spikes. Each stem is clothed top to bottom with big, open-faced, lightly scented pink-and-white butterfly-like blooms. You can expect flowers from late spring through fall from this cutting-garden stalwart.
This is a fast-growing, sturdy plant that reaches 2 to 3 feet tall. It sports abundant, long-lasting clusters of tiny, button-like double yellow blooms that add a charming lightness to any arrangement. Flowers start showing up in late spring and continue until winter’s first frost.
Cockscomb is generally seen as a beefy centerpiece flower in an arrangement, but the variety ‘Kurume Rose’ is an ideal supporting player.
Though this particularly showy variety of cockscomb could take center stage, its beguiling summer-through-fall blooms make it a fantastic foil for big yellow roses, sunflowers, or really any other bigger blooms. Allow plenty of space for this 3- to 4-foot-tall and 2- to 3-foot-wide behemoth.
Its unique color and odd texture give honeywort an appearance like no other flower. Add it to your bouquets, and get ready for folks to ask, “What on earth is that?”
This intriguing plant bears indigo-violet bells that nod gracefully from bronzy-blue bracts that top each gracefully arching silver-green stem. Reaching 28 to 32 inches tall and a little wider, honeywort is as stunning in the spring through fall border as it is in any bouquet, offering fabulous, almost succulent-like texture to its bouquet buddies.
—Fionuala Campion is the owner and manager of Cottage Gardens of Petaluma in Petaluma, California.
I was lucky enough to visit the Gibbs Gardens many years ago before they were fully open to the public. I was immediately struck by the meticulous maintenance the gardens received. That first visit was in high summer, and I remember being completely taken by the water lily garden. This garden is still one of my favorites and honors the impressionistic paintings of Claude Monet. This section has five ponds showcasing hundreds of water lily (Nymphaea spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11) varieties. It’s just one of many features that make this garden wonderful.
I think a visit any time of year is worthwhile. However, I particularly recommend March through April for a planned visit. The Gibbs Gardens are known for their daffodil (Narcissus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) displays each year. They have over 20 million daffodils planted on over 50 acres of hillsides and valleys that put on a spectacular show.
It’s not just bulbs that bloom at Gibbs in spring; there are also many spring-flowering trees and shrubs.
Background on the gardens
The second thing I remember from my first visit was the vastness of the gardens. The property owner (Jim Gibbs) and staff maintain over 300 acres! Without a doubt, this is one of the largest residential gardens I have ever visited. Located in Ball Ground, Georgia, less than an hour northeast of Atlanta, the Gibbs Gardens are now fully open to the public and welcome visitors six days a week. There is a proper gift shop and café, and parking is relatively easy to use and convenient.
I reached out to Jim Gibbs, who is still a part of the day-to-day operations of the Gibbs Gardens, about the overall design of the gardens. Jim said, “I like to design and install plant collections as a way to inspire and educate future generations.” The gardens are designed to show displays of color and texture throughout the seasons.
I love visiting gardens where I can take home ideas. Gibbs can inspire visitors with ideas to use in their own gardens. During a more recent visit, I wanted to focus on how Gibbs treats their daffodils after they bloom. They have millions of daffodils, but the garden needs to look good year-round.
Much of the woodland is planted with daffodils, which die back and are surrounded by other plants once the flowers fade.
Dealing with fading daffodils
Daffodils are without a doubt one of the most reliable spring-flowering bulbs we can grow in the South and Southeast. They look wonderful planted en masse and bring just the right feeling to our spring gardens. After flowers have faded in the spring, it’s advisable to leave foliage intact to help bulbs regenerate for the following year. This can take a while, and the foliage can look rather shabby just a few weeks after bloom.
A large portion of the daffodils planted at Gibbs are incorporated in and around large deciduous trees in a woodland setting. Plants thrive before trees put on their leaves. The foliage is then left as a ground cover and eventually dies back completely to the ground. In full-sun open settings at Gibbs, daffodil foliage is allowed to remain, while grasses and wildflowers fill in the spaces as the bulb foliage fades. This creates a wonderful early spring meadow feeling as you wander the gardens.
Gibbs extends their spring
The genius of Gibbs’ spring displays is how they incorporate daffodils throughout the garden that bloom at different times. When you are shopping for daffodils or other spring-flowering bulbs, you may see they are classified as early-, mid-, or late-season bloomers. Gibbs has a good mix of all three, which means they can have blooms from the end of February through April. You can do this in your home garden too. You can even find daffodils that look nearly identical but that bloom at different times throughout the spring. To make this happen, you most likely will need to shop online, or find an independent garden center with a good bulb selection in the fall.
While the Gibbs Gardens are known for their spring displays, they make sure to provide interest throughout the year. Huge swaths of daylilies (Hemerocallis spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) bloom in summer. Photo: Gibbs Gardens
Spectacular displays in our home gardens
Gibbs is a wonderful garden to visit during any season. However, daffodils are one of the main things they are known for in the public garden world, for good reason. It is without a doubt one of the most spectacular displays on the planet. They create a display that can only be referred to as a spectacular. My mind wanders to how we can think about creating spectacular impacts in our own gardens. Every garden needs a crescendo! For Gibbs that climax is spring. Your garden might find its peak in high summer or in the shortening days of fall. Whenever it is, it’s worth creating those moments where we allow ourselves to go overboard.
For information on other stunning public gardens in the Southeast, check out:
And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.
—Andy Pulte is a faculty member in the plant sciences department at the University of Tennessee.
The inward spiral of rosette-forming plants always seems to draw us in. From Romanesco broccoli to golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii, Zones 9–12), many plants grow with mathematical precision that reveals itself in stunning architectural forms. Echeverias (Echeveria spp. and cvs., Zones 9–11) are perhaps the queens of this structural arrangement. Their allure is irresistible, and one small plant can be a rewarding indulgence!
‘Mauna Loa’ echeveria (Echeveria ‘Mauna Loa’, Zones 9–11) is a hybrid with a very unique texture and red-green foliage.
Echeverias’ native habitat
Members of Crassulaceae, along with sedums (Sedum spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11) and hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp. and cvs., Zones 4–10), echeverias are primarily native to tropical areas of Mexico and Central America. They can be found growing among craggy rocks; in dry, forested hillsides; and in vertical cliff faces—most always in locations with excellent drainage. A few will tolerate some light frost, but they are the exception. In their native habitat, conditions are generally comfortable, with lows in the 50s and highs in the 80s.
Here, ‘Afterglow’ echeveria (Echeveria ‘Afterglow’, Zones 9–11) and Mexican snowball (Echeveria elegans, Zones 9–11) grow in light shade in one of the warmer parts of the Southwest.
Required growing conditions
Cool, sunny conditions bring out echeverias’ best color and their compact habit, but fortunately most will take a much wider range of temperatures in stride. Good drainage is essential. Due to their beauty and tolerance of neglect, echeverias often take center stage in mixed succulent containers, or as striking specimens on their own. In subtropical parts of the Southwest, they can be grown in the ground among other shrubs and succulents, though they will not be quite as xeric as true native desert plants. In containers, most will thrive with good morning sun and some bright shade during the hottest part of the day. They are content with only occasional water, preferring dry soil over wet.
Lipstick echeveria is a slower-growing variety that is content to grow in a sunny windowsill.
In areas with winter freezes, echeverias should come indoors, but they require a window with full sun, cool temperatures, and minimal water. A chilly garage window can also work, where they can go somewhat dormant during the coldest months. If conditions are too warm, most will try to resume active growth, stretching for all available light and losing their compact rosette form. Slower-growing varieties are less likely to suffer this fate, and the best of these is lipstick echeveria (Echeveria agavoides, Zones 9–11).
‘Francesca’ graptoveria (Graptopetalum × Echeveria ‘Francesca’, Zones 9–12) is a charming succulent with icy blue foliage that is blushed in pink and purple.
Stunning hybrids and companion plants
Many members of Crassulaceae hybridize quite easily, and plant breeders have taken full advantage of this, creating scores of colorful cultivars with intermediate traits. Hybrid names have become commonplace, such as “× Sedeveria” (Sedum × Echeveria), “× Graptoveria” (Graptopetalum × Echeveria), and “× Pachyveria” (Pachyphytum × Echeveria).
Silver bush complements the look of echeverias and also grows in the same conditions.
While echeverias are stunning on their own, don’t hesitate to mix them with other colorful or textural plants. Leafy plants can take up excess water from the soil, and I use them as good “indicator plants” that will droop when soil is becoming too dry. Then I know it’s the right time to water. Three of my favorite companion plants for echeverias are ‘Silver Falls’ dichondra (Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’, Zones 9–11), silver bush (Calocephalus brownii, Zones 9–11) and sun-tolerant coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides cvs., Zones 10–11), such as ‘Sedona’ and ‘Dark Star’.
Lilacs (Syringa spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) are so commonplace in many parts of North America that it may surprise you to learn that they are not native to this continent. Of the 20 to 25 species of lilacs, all come from Europe and Asia. While not native to North America, lilacs were fragrant imports that arrived around the same time as the colonists. Today, lilacs are one of the first plants young families choose to grow when they get their first homes.
Although deliciously fragrant and beautiful when in bloom, lilacs rarely make excellent specimen plants and are best if located somewhere they can grow tall. They can (and should) be picked as cut flowers. They are not well suited for use as hedges or clipped shrubs. Lilacs are stunningly beautiful when in bloom anytime from April to June, but it is the unmistakable scent of the blossoms that is behind much of their appeal.
Lilacs make great cut flowers.
How to plant new lilacs
Lilacs are best grown in an area of the garden that can handle their casual forms. Often they are included in a loose hedgerow of shrubs or set along the boundary of a yard. A well-grown lilac naturally looks untidy.
Planting a young lilac couldn’t be easier. There are plenty of varieties available today, both old and new. As with many plants, the more modern strains tend to be more vigorous and disease resistant. Resist buying value plants from mail-order sources that promise a bareroot lilac shrub for just a few dollars. These may take years to establish themselves, and even when they do, the results are often not satisfactory.
Starting with a nursery-bought 1- to 5-gallon container is best. Prepare a hole with soil that is slightly acidic to alkaline—lilacs love slightly alkaline soil of around 7 pH. A little horticultural powdered lime will make soil more alkaline if your soil tends to be acidic. Lilacs also dislike drought and do best with about an inch of water a week. Remember, they form their flower buds in late summer, often when droughts are at their peak, so additional irrigation is helpful. Most lilacs prefer full sun.
To keep lilacs blooming on strong stems, cut back a third of the old growth every year.
How to prune lilacs
Lilacs are loosely growing shrubs, and while long-lived, they do need some annual maintenance if you want the best possible blooms. Remove one-third of the old trunks once a shrub has matured and has woody, bark-covered trunks. Lilacs bloom best on newer branches, usually ones that rise from the base and are two to three years old. Old, mature wood will form small, thin limbs, and while flower buds will still form, the weight of the flowers is often too much for the spindly stems, and the flower heads will be much smaller.
Removing old woody stems from mature plants is best done after the flowers have faded, usually in late June. This will give the plants time for new stems to emerge from the base of the shrubs. By removing one-third every year, you will continue to get some bloom every year. Some older shrubs may benefit from complete removal of all large stems at once, but that may prevent blooming for a couple of years until growth is mature again.
Regenerating old lilacs
Pruning is critical with old lilacs, and while many choose to prune an ancient, woody lilac in early spring, this is the wrong time. Prune an old lilac just after it blooms. Either remove all the dead and mature growth down to the ground, leaving 10-inch-long stumps, or cut limbs with a saw, removing about one-third of the old growth each year until the entire shrub is regenerated. Amend the soil with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer or manure, and add plenty of ground limestone to the surface. Keep an eye on watering as well, applying an inch of water a week as a good target. Expect new growth to bloom in the second year after pruning. For more on pruning lilacs, check out How to Prune Lilacs.
Watch out for disease
Lilacs are prone to powdery mildew damage, which can be controlled with copper-based sprays. Often this affliction doesn’t harm flower buds, as it appears in mid to late summer. Powdery mildew typically appears as a white, powdery substance on the surface of the leaves. Proper pruning to thin shrubs and providing a breezy site will help.
Lilac species and hybrids
There are many lilac varieties and hybrids to choose from, but if you are looking for pure lilac fragrance, look for varieties of common lilac (Syringa vulgaris, Zones 3–7) or Syringa × hyacinthiflora (Zones 3–7), which is a hybrid made from common lilac and early lilac (Syringa oblata, Zones 3–6). Syringa × hyacinthiflora varieties are also known to be early blooming. Other species, such as Korean lilac (Syringa meyeri, Zones 3–7), may be highly scented, but the fragrance is nothing you’d identify as lilac. Korean lilac and some other species have strong scents of jasmine or spicy viburnum, which is still lovely but may be disappointing if you’re expecting that classic lilac scent. In addition to fragrance, color and form vary among lilacs and should be taken into account.
Favorite Lilac Varieties
Here are a few tried-and-true cultivars that will wow you with their colorful blooms and rich fragrance.
‘Miss Kim’ is a late-blooming lilac with a spicy fragrance and excellent disease resistance.
‘Miss Kim’ Manchurian lilac
Syringa pubescens subsp. patula ‘Miss Kim’, Zones 3–8
This popular Manchurian or Korean lilac is commonly found in nurseries. It’s strongly fragrant with a spicy viburnum scent that is reminiscent of cloves and cinnamon.
‘Charles Joly’ is a classic variety known for its dark purple flowers.
‘Charles Joly’ lilac
Syringa vulgaris ‘Charles Joly’, Zones 3–7
This is a true antique variety from the 1800s. It matures into a multistemmed shrub with single dark purple-plum blooms with a classic lilac fragrance.
For pink lilac flowers, look no further than ‘Marie Frances’.
‘Marie Frances’ lilac
Syringa vulgaris ‘Marie Frances’, Zones 3–7
With strongly scented pale-pink blossoms, ‘Marie Frances’ has long been a favorite. The pink coloring is unique and blends well with both purple and white lilacs.
New Age™ White is a newer variety with good disease resistance and bright white flowers.
New Age™ White lilac
Syringa vulgaris ‘G13103’, Zones 4–7
A newcomer to the lilac scene, this vivid-white lilac has much to offer. Maturing at only 4 to 5 feet tall, it’s also more mildew resistant than older varieties.
‘Sensation’ lilac’s purple petals are outlined in white.
‘Sensation’ lilac
Syringa vulgaris ‘Sensation’, Zones 3–7
If there was a lilac popularity contest, this beauty could win hands-down. Its star appeal comes from its large, magenta-violet florets, which display a distinct outline of contrasting white around the edges of the petals.
Bloomerang® Purple lilac (Syringa ‘Penda’, Zones 3–7) can bloom multiple times throughout spring and summer.
Bloomerang® lilacs
The newest lilacs on the scene are sometimes listed as “ever blooming,” and they do indeed bloom multiple times from spring to autumn. They include the popular series Bloomerang®, which comes in different colors. These are some of the most popular lilacs sold today.
Whichever of these lilacs you choose, be sure to provide the right conditions and maintenance to keep the abundance of fragrant blossoms coming every spring. For more information on lilacs, check out Lilacs: Time for a Fresh Look.
And for more Northeast regional reports, click here.
—Matt Mattus is the author of two books: Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening and Mastering the Art of Vegetable Gardening. He lives and gardens in Worcester, Massachusetts.
Being an undercover plant addict is my worst-kept secret. Sedges (Carex spp. and cvs., Zones 3–10) are my current fixation. I think spending so many years hooked on hostas (Hosta spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) and their big, rounded leaves has left me hungry for something new. A genus of over 1,500 species, sedges can grow in habitats ranging from dry to wet and from sunny to shady, and in various soil types through virtually every region of the world. These versatile and attractive plants have their place in any garden. Here are three of my favorite native sedges.
Damp soils are problematic whether they are in the garden or in areas where one would prefer to have a lawn. Fortunately, ‘Little Midge’ palm sedge was introduced as an answer to that problem. A compact plant that colonizes in optimum conditions to create a lush green carpet, ‘Little Midge’ grows into rounded clumps 8 to 10 inches tall and 10 to 18 inches wide. It’s lovely as a specimen plant or planted in groups. It also looks pretty in containers as a filler or accent. Preferring dappled to full shade, it performs well enough in full sun if consistently kept moist. Resistant to pests and grazing from deer and other herbivores, it is a reliable choice for woodland, native, and wetland gardens.
Plains oval sedge has interesting seed heads on tall stems. Here, it’s seen growing wild in Wyoming. Photo: Matt Lavin, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Plains oval sedge
Carex brevior, Zones 3–8
A lakeside project provided this designer with several challenging scenarios after a new home was built. Soil disturbance, changing elevations, and new drainage patterns created a large, depressed area under a grove of eastern cottonwood trees (Populus deltoides, Zones 2–9). The environment couldn’t support a lawn, was shady, and got quite soggy after storms, requiring serious research to find a solution. The answer was a mass planting of Plains oval sedge under the trees and throughout the depressed soil. Hardy to Zone 3 and native throughout most of the United States, it’s a tall sedge; the leaf blades are only 1/8-inch wide, but each grows to 12 inches long, with the seed heads reaching a height of 3 to 4 feet in late spring. This sedge takes full sun to partial shade. The soft foliage cascades to the side later in the season, creating the look of waves. Spacing is recommended at 18 to 24 inches, but a tighter planting might be better. I interplanted this with ‘Blue Danube’ camass (Camassia leichtlinii subsp. suksdorfii ‘Blue Danube’ syn. ‘Blauwe Donau’, Zones 5–9) for a pop of color in late spring. The bulbs need to be replanted every two years to keep the display robust.
Plantain-leaf sedge has wide, strappy leaves.
Plantain-leaf sedge
Carex plantaginea, Zones 4–8
This sedge thrives in rich woodlands, ravines, and mountain slopes. Indigenous to the northeastern United States, it can be found growing wild as far west as Minnesota. One of the only hardy wide-leaved sedges available to gardeners in our region, plantain-leaf sedge is often mistaken for liriope (Liriope spp. and cvs., Zones 4–10) by those unfamiliar with it. Reaching a compact size of 1 foot tall and 1 foot wide, it is a tidy little plant. I use it judiciously, as I find it doesn’t have much tolerance for being disturbed. Having planted a dozen several years ago in my garden, the ones planted where the dog has walked have not fared so well. Those tucked back away from traffic are happier and still there. In a client’s woodland garden, I planted several dozen in various groupings. They are not regularly bothered and are doing quite well. Plantain-leaf sedge does best in partial shade and moist soil but adapts to drier, shadier locations.
Care tips for these sedges
All three of these sedges have important similarities that merit mention. Their foliage holds well over the winter, and like grasses, their leaves should be left up for winter interest. You can cut the foliage back just above the base of the plant in early spring before new growth emerges. As native plants, these sedges have seed heads that are a food source for native birds, with the narrow, grassy foliage being a choice perch for the caterpillars of woodland butterflies to feed upon. All are adaptable but are happiest in a partially shaded, moist site. Give them what they want, and you will have happy, carefree plants that need little if anything else. No pruning, no fussing, no staking, and no deadheading are required. No prima donnas here, only carefree sedges.
For more native plants, check out:
And for more Northern Plains regional reports, click here.
—Marti Neely, FAPLD, owns and operates Marti Neely Design and Associates in Omaha, Nebraska.
When I first began gardening I remember a more experienced friend asking me, “How deep are you going to make your borders?” I turned to her with a confused look, thinking, “What on earth is she talking about? Does she mean garden beds?” Not wanting to seem totally daft, I quickly ran inside and grabbed a few gardening books from the shelf to try and research what that term meant. This was before the days of Google, mind you.
I learned quickly that a “border” was simply a long-ish, narrow-ish garden bed. The actual definition seemed to vary widely, because the dimensions all depend on the site. Garden borders are perhaps most frequently associated with larger English estate landscapes, where the long pathway leading to the grand front entry would normally be flanked on both sides with skinny garden beds. These stunning plots would be filled with cottage garden classics—domed shrub roses, pristine peonies (Paeonia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8), and billowy tufts of catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9) and lady’s mantle (Alchemilla spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8).
Today, the sky is the limit when it comes to borders. Yes, you can keep your designs more traditional and English in style. But mixing things up is also a good approach. In fact, as you’ll read in several of the articles below, the more varied the plant material is, the more apt your eye is to keep moving down the length of the bed. A sturdy assortment of perennials, shrubs, and even small trees gives the best borders structure and seasonal interest year-round. Incorporating annuals and tropical adds even more drama, as these plants are often the dominate focal point that overflowing beds need.
One thing that is universal among all the best border plantings is a strong, clean edge. You can choose to accentuate the bed lines with hardscape (brick, stone, or metal) or commit to cutting a precise line in the turf, if you prefer a more organic look. There are pros and cons to each, which you can read more about below. Regardless of your approach, most gardeners agree that when it comes to borders, they are truly breathtaking if done right.
Design
Use plant combinations that focus on complementary colors, textures, and forms
Design
Repeating colors, textures, and forms creates a whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts
How-To
Follow these four steps to keep lawns and beds looking neat
Design
Use exotic plants as focal points, as accents, and in a vignette
What do garden snails eat? What in our precious vegetable gardens is at stake? As cute as they can be, garden snails can also be a bit of a nuisance in the garden when they eat up all the veggies we have spent months growing. Here’s what to keep an eye on!
Garden snails may be the cutest pest in the garden. Or at least competing with caterpillars for the title! Personally, I love spotting snails in the garden.
They play their role in the food chain as part of the natural ecosystem, being eaten up by birds and small animals while eating debris and pest eggs themselves.
That said, they can eat more than their fair share of my favourite vegetables and greens in the garden.
The brown garden snail, Cornu aspersum, is originally native to the Mediterranean but has now found its way to every single continent apart from Antarctica. It’s sneaked its way into many places it shouldn’t be, which can make it a nuisance.
So what do garden snails eat? Well…a lot!
This post will cover…
Snails are part of the ecosystem and often don’t pose a big threat to the garden.
What Do Garden Snails Eat?
If it has foliage, a snail might eat it. This means almost all your flowers, vegetables, and other leafy foliage is at risk. While knowing exactly what is eating your plants can be hard, a slimy trail could indicate a snail is the culprit!
Debris
Garden snails are omnivores, meaning they feed on just about any organic material. They often eat lots of debris and live plants, including tree bark, stems and branches, mushrooms, algae, and seeds.
Calcium is also important for snails since it helps them grow their shells. They get their calcium from things like egg shells, bones, dead snail shells, dead animal tissues, soil, and greens.
To get their calcium, some snails will even eat their young!
Vegetables
Snails like lots of vegetables. I would say there are few vegetables off-limits for the garden snail to eat, but they do have some they prefer more than others. This includes:
Cabbage
Spinach
Artichokes
Cucumber
Peas
Brussel sprouts
Bean
Radish
Onion
Turnips
Snails, in particular, love tender seedlings, so your vegetables are most vulnerable in the spring or when they’re young.
Lettuce
Much like slugs, leafy greens and lettuce is a popular choice for garden snails. If you find that most of your lettuce gets munched on before you have a chance to harvest it yourself, I highly recommend growing it in containers. I grow my lettuce in a wine barrel!
Copper wire acts as a barrier against snails and slugs. You can add it to your container or even around the base of a tree or shrub to prevent snails from climbing it.
Fruit
Snails like fruit a ton, often leaving holes in the fruit. The lower and easier to eat, the better. So your strawberries could very well be in prime snail-eating territory!
They also enjoy apples, peaches, cherries, plums, apricot, pears, and tomatoes.
If you spot holes in your fruit, there’s a good chance some pest has been eating it so be careful.
Flowers
Your flowers aren’t necessarily safe from snails, either. Some of their favourites include
Snails prefer all kinds of fresh growth, meaning your flower buds could be at risk.
Crops
Snails have become a big problem in places they don’t belong, where they’re not native. In California especially, they are notorious for eating citrus and vineyards, and quarantines are in place to prevent spreading them.
Even so, they often hide amongst foliage and can easily be transported into gardens through container plants.
Always check new plants when buying them for any pests who may also be travelling with them.
Frequently Asked Questions About Garden Snails
How often do garden snails eat?
Snails are most active in the spring. This is when they’re most notorious for devouring seedlings. They’ll eat until full, consuming about 10% of their body weight.
They can also enter periods of lethargy during the summer and the winter. During this time, they retreat into their shell and cover themselves with a protective mucus layer. While in this hibernation of sorts, they eat significantly less.
Do garden snails need to drink water?
Like any living organism, snails need to drink water. This keeps them hydrated and energetic. Most of their water comes from their food, but they also get it from their environment. They really enjoy living in humid places!
How can I get rid of garden snails?
The best way to naturally get rid of any pest is to look at its habitat, eating habits, and who eats it. To make your habitat less snail friendly, try incorporating plants snails don’t like amidst ones they do, and encourage snail-eating animals to take up your garden as a residence.
We’re visiting with frequent GPOD contributor Carla Z. Mudry in Malvern, Pennsylvannia today.
Daffodils are now everywhere! It is so worth it to plant different kinds of daffodils not only for color and cultivar but for time in the blooming season. I have early spring, midspring, and late spring. However, given the totally weird weather this year, my daffodils are a good two to three weeks ahead of schedule. The peonies are popping up all over, and the tree peonies are starting to bud. One of my redbud trees (Cercis canadensis, Zones 4–9) will be in bloom any day now. Scilla are up, and the English and Virginia bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta andMertensia virginica, both Zones 3–8) have sent their leaves up. Hellebores (Helleborushybrids, Zones 4–9) continue to bloom. Daylilies (Hemerocallishybrids, Zones 4–10) and hostas (Hosta hybrids, Zones 3–9) have broken the surface of the ground, and now I have to put out red pepper flakes because the bunnies are nibbling on the new and tender leaves.
Daffodils come in so many different forms. This is a split-corona variety, which means that the central trumpet is split and so spreads out like normal petals rather than forming a tube.
This tree peony (Paeonia hybrid, Zones 3–8) is already pushing new growth with a flower bud showing.
The layers of extra petals make this double-flowered daffodil hardly look like a daffodil at all.
Daffodils aren’t just yellow, as these two both demonstrate with their white petals and their orange and soft pink trumpets.
Carla’s new sculpture made from the trunk of a dead tree. What a gorgeous addition to the garden!
Camellia (Camelliajaponica, Zones 7–10) blooms from winter into spring.
This double daffodil looks like it might be the very old (to the 1800s) cultivar ‘Rip van Winkle’.
Willow catkins opening up are a beautiful sign of spring and a key early pollen source for insects.
A clump of totally classic yellow daffodils—the sunny epitome of spring
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Thousands of miles from the prairies of the American Midwest, the gardening avant-garde of Europe has long admired “prairie gardening,” nurturing plant communities grown in a matrix of grasses, appreciating every stage of bud, flower, and decay. It sure beats looking at uncovered soil, fertilizing the unwilling, and staking the overfed. And yet in real prairie country, the old, imported model of lawns, flower beds, and clipped evergreens continues to dominate.
What a relief then that forward-thinking garden designers like Benjamin Vogt (who lives in Nebraska) are becoming harder to ignore. With his company Monarch Gardens, Vogt brings micro prairies to the suburban Midwestern landscape, and in his new book, a follow-up to the popular A New Ethic, he makes the case that the “new pretty” is native, hyper-local, and highly functioning as an ecosystem. As the esteemed entomologist Douglas Tallamy notes on the back cover, Prairie Up: An Introduction to Natural Garden Design is “a cookbook for prairie restoration”—in other words, easy to follow but requiring some advance preparation.
Above: A scaled-down prairie in suburbia. “Instead of coneflowers dotting the entire landscape (in this case, Echinacea purpurea), a few clumps repeat themselves.”
Vogt writes in a detailed yet utterly engaging way about the history of prairies, our interaction with them, and their generally positive reaction to stress and fire. It’s a type of grassland management that translates well for the home gardener, but we need to first really understand what we are dealing with. Doing the research, being more attuned, will result in fewer problems, which are mainly born out of received wisdom of what a garden should be. “The point of all this is to find guides to gardening with nature and not against it by using endemic plant communities,” Vogt writes. “If we understand the region we grow in, and the native plants therein, we will have a much better idea of how to garden, and how to manage that garden.”
Above: Mowing the sidewalk strip from midsummer on provides some visual breathing space to a micro prairie and helps it to connect with the wider neighborhood.
After the initial research of your local ecosystem, its scaled-down implementation, with many FAQ’s answered by Vogt along the way, it becomes clear that garden design that is nature-based and prairie-inspired is easier to look after than its formal counterpart. Plants are allowed to express themselves, and move around from one season to the next. However, in real prairie country (and as Vogt points out, this is all over America) a relaxed garden can be translated as a lack of care. This being a useful book, we are advised on responding to the disapproving neighborhood association and are reminded that courtesy is a helpful tool in shifting paradigms.
Above: Oversized pots, sculpture, visible sight lines and general readability can be “cues to care” in a semi-wild garden. It’s a useful term for the new kind of gardener, first used in an academic paper almost 30 years ago by John Nassauer called “Messy Ecosystems, Orderly Frames.”Above: A mown path makes some negative space which is in itself visually positive. “Cues to care in a natural garden provide visual anchors and clue us into purpose.”
The second spring after planting, top dress 6″-12″ from the crown of the plant with an all-purpose organic fertilizer.
Peonies are relatively drought-tolerant once established. Care should be taken, however, to water during periods of active growth in the spring and late summer to ensure proper bud growth.
Fall & Winter
After your peony puts on a marvelous display of color in the fall, cut the browning foliage of herbaceous peonies to the ground and mulch with a couple of inches of compost. Cut ITOH peonies, leaving 4”-5” of woody stems. Do not cut back tree peonies. Now, sit back and relax while you wait for an even more beautiful plant next season!
Diseases
Botrytis is the only disease that affects peonies. It is characterized by drooping, blackened or scorched-looking foliage and dried up flower buds. Remove any signs of diseased material from the plant, cleaning your pruners with an alcohol solution between each cut. Do not compost diseased material! Spray the plant with a copper-based fungicide to help control the disease.
…we were planting a “regenerative cover crop” on the land we were renting.
Little did we know we’d be ejected from that sand pit of death a few months later!
The year before, I was making coconut biochar in The Great South Florida Food Forest Project, down at my parents’ house in Ft. Lauderdale:
The year before, we were living in the jungle of the West indies during the pandemic on a small piece of land we’d bought, planting all we could to ensure a food supply in case of civilizational collapse. Sweet potatoes were key! At this point, we were locked down and I had to make short videos and climb a mountain to upload from my smart phone:
We thought that was the land we were going to keep! We already had a large concrete foundation for a house finished, plus I’d planted a food forest. The pandemic swept all that away. They didn’t want to renew our visas on the current terms, and they also wanted everyone to get the shot to come in and out. We had to say goodbye.
The year before, I was visiting the states for a short period of time and went to my friend Bill Hall’s blueberry farm to record a video:
In 2018, we were renting a modest apartment in the West Indies and gardening in a borrowed building lot, where I planted sweet potatoes, yams, papaya, chaya… and moringa:
The year before, we were renting another location – a small cocoa farm – and I was attempting to grow 1,000 lbs of food. I spent a lot of time clearing brush and grass to make garden beds:
In April of 2016, we sold our house in North Florida and went down to South Florida to prepare for our expatriation to the little island of Grenada, West Indies. This was my final tour of the old food forest:
It’s interesting to have this blog, and the YouTube channel, both of which give us a look back over the course of our lives. Though mostly focused on gardening, there is always more beneath the surface. The moves from place to place as we hunted for land, the loss of my Dad, the children growing, the pandemic, the move back home, the friends…
We’ve certainly been busy and have accomplished a lot, despite leaving it all behind at previous properties! Does it matter?
Life is a vapor. Only what is done for Christ shall last. I hope some of our experiences have helped others. We have learned much, and we are blessed to have our children and our family all together in a new home.
C. canadensis‘Ace of Hearts’ is small in every way. The dwarf-sized plant only grows to about 12 feet tall with an upright habit, and the leaves and flowers are proportionately small.
While all redbuds have heart-shaped leaves, the foliage on this cultivar is particularly perfectly heart-shaped.
The effect is a compact, dense form with a plethora of tiny green hearts trembling in the breeze.
This redbud tends to grow as wide as it is tall, with a symmetrical canopy and symmetrical leaf growth. It makes a pleasing, clean architectural statement in the yard.
But don’t forget the blooms! The spring flowers are rose pink with a hint of purple.
If you want an option that you can grow as either a large shrub or a small tree, depending on how you prune it, pick up this winner at Fast Growing Trees.
They carry live trees in two- to three-, three- to four-, and four- to five-foot sizes.
2. Alley Cat
Named in 2016, ‘Alley Cat’ is one tough customer.
This C. canadensis cultivar was found growing wild in an alley in Louisville, Kentucky by Allen Bush, who gave it to Harald Neubauer of Hidden Hollow Nursery to cultivate and sell.
It has been bringing its sassy variegated foliage to backyards across the US ever since.
Photo via Alamy.
Honestly, I love underdog success stories, so I’d probably adore this option no matter what.
But it’s one of the most striking redbuds out there, with three-season interest that never fails to draw comments.
The heart-shaped leaves are medium-green and liberally speckled with creamy-white blotches, but before that, when they emerge in the spring, they’re surprisingly pink.
Sometimes variegated foliage can scorch in the sun, but ‘Alley Cat’ maintains its color even in full exposure.
This semi-dwarf C. chinenis cultivar stands out because of its nearly neon pink flowers that absolutely envelope the branches in color so intense it seems unnatural.
It’s also one of the most floriferous of all the redbuds.
Topping out at about 12 feet, this is a good option if you want to grow a redbud in a container, where it will stay even more compact.
For a big impact in a small package, grab a four- to five- or five- to six-foot ‘Avondale’ from Fast Growing Trees. Depending on how you prune it, you can grow it as a large shrub or small tree.
4. Black Pearl
Lovers of dramatic gardens filled with midnight-hued plants, gather ‘round.
Black Pearl™ has large, heart-shaped leaves that are so dark purple that they appear to be black, particularly in the fall when the leaves turn darker.
This C. canadensis cultivar has such beautiful foliage that the blossoms are almost an afterthought. Preceding the leaves, they’re a lovely lavender color.
When I was helping a friend design her black garden, we had no trouble finding black flowers and herbaceous plants, but tracking down a black tree was another matter entirely.
This cultivar fits the bill, and it’s stunning. Even if you aren’t choosing all dark-hued plants for your garden, it’s a surprising accent among the typical flowers and green foliage.
The tree grows about 20 feet tall and 25 feet wide. Feeling the gothic vibes? Head to Nature Hills Nursery to buy a live plant in a #2 container.
5. Carolina Sweetheart
Redbuds are gorgeous when they’re in bloom. Many people pick these just to enjoy the floral show in the spring.
But Carolina Sweetheart® is covered in such colorful, beautiful foliage that you might forget the plant even puts out blossoms.
The leaves almost look like flowers themselves, with maroon, pink, cream, red, and green variegated coloring.
The show continues into the fall as the leaves take on a yellow hue while continuing to retain the pink, red, and maroon shades.
Bred by North Carolina State University horticulturalists, this C. canadensis cultivar can put on a big, bold performance, reaching up to 30 feet tall.
Ready for a sweet show? Pop on over to Nature Hills Nursery for a live plant in a #2 container.
6. Cascading Hearts
Get ready to tumble into love. ‘Cascading Hearts’ is a dwarf C. canadensis cultivar that tops out at just eight feet with a 10-foot spread and an elegant weeping growth habit.
Imagine a pair of these in full bloom in large, elegant pots flanking a doorway. They make a big statement in a petite package.
Even when the trees aren’t in bloom, the weeping branches covered in heart-shaped leaves draw all the attention.
If you’ve fallen in love with ‘Cascading Hearts,’ we get it! Nature Hills Nursery carries live trees in #2 containers.
7. Claremont
Good old western redbud (C. occidentalis) hasn’t been cultivated to the extent that its eastern cousin has.
Native to dry, hot areas like parts of California, Arizona, and Utah, it is extremely drought tolerant and isn’t afraid of extreme heat.
On the other hand, it won’t tolerate too much cold and can’t be grown north of Zone 7.
While the species is perfectly lovely, ‘Claremont’ is even more floriferous with a darker purple-pink hue to the blossoms.
The fall leaves turn brighter yellow than the species and it can tolerate colder regions, as far north as Zone 6.
8. Don Egolf
At a petite 10 feet tall, this Chinese cultivar is perfect when you need something a little bit more petite.
The bright fuchsia flowers reliably appear year after year, even when the tree doesn’t receive the number of chill hours during winter that it prefers.
Since it’s sterile, you don’t have to worry about the mess of seed pods, either.
It’s super disease-resistant, slow growing, and maintains a compact shape without pruning.
‘Don Egolf’ is also incredibly prolific in terms of flowering. You can’t even see the bark underneath when the tree is in bloom.
This C. canadensis cultivar is darker overall than the standard species.
It has purple-red blossoms that stick around for nearly a month, and dark green leaves that first emerge in shades of dark reddish-purple in the spring.
‘Forest Pansy’ will eventually reach 30 feet tall, which means you’re in for a majestic show in the spring.
When mature, it’s just eight feet tall and three feet wide. Covered in golden-green leaves, it looks like a golden waterfall of hearts in the summer and a fountain of pink in the spring.
Golden Falls® looks completely unlike any other redbud. Stand out with one of your own from Fast Growing Trees.
11. Lavender Twist
Redbuds garner all the attention in the spring, but the dwarf C. canadensis ‘Lavender Twist’ puts on a four-season show.
Yes, it has those characteristic lavender poms covering the branches. In the summer, the heart-shaped leaves cascade down the weeping tree before turning yellow in the fall.
Finally, even when all the leaves have fallen, the twisting, weeping branches are an architectural statement, whether covered in snow or simply standing bare in the garden.
It’s so nice, in fact, that this 10-footer took home the top award in the tree category in 2009 at the Georgia Gold Medal Awards.
Whether you want to pot it up or place it in the ground, you can snag a live three- to four-, four- to five-, or five- to six-foot tree at Planting Tree.
12. Judas Tree
This species is called the Judas tree because it is said in Christian mythology that Judas Iscariot hung himself from one after betraying Jesus. I prefer the more cheerful term “Mediterranean tree.”
Whatever you call C. siliquastrum, its native range spans western Asia and southern Europe. Now and then, you can find it for sale as an ornamental in North America.
If you happen to find one, grab it. They’re lovely, growing up to 25 feet tall with a thick, full canopy full of heart-shaped leaves that emerge bronze in the spring before shifting to medium green.
The pink-lavender blossoms (or white on the alba variety) give way to purple pods that stick around on the tree for months.
13. Pink Heartbreaker
It’s heartbreaking when a tree doesn’t perform as you want it to. But ‘Pink Heartbreaker’ won’t let you down.
Pink flower fans will fall in love with the lavender-pink blossoms on strong, arching branches that are a feature of this petite, 12-foot-tall tree.
Ready to break hearts, in a good way? Bring home a five- to six- or six- to seven-foot-tall tree from Fast Growing Trees.
14. Pink Pom Poms
It’s easy to see where this C. canadensis hybrid got its name. The big clusters of fully double, reddish-purple flowers look like celebratory pom poms cheering for the arrival of spring.
The heart-shaped leaves provide a glossy show during the summer, and you don’t have to worry about messy pods in the fall, since this redbud is sterile.
Rising Sun™ is a dwarf C .canadensis cultivar that grows up to 12 feet tall with a dense growth habit, which would make it an appealing option in itself.
The cheerful reddish-pink poms are classic redbud, and its yellowish, smooth bark adds some color to the winter landscape.
But all that is just secondary to the foliage. Each leaf transitions from peach through orange, gold, and yellow to its mature lime green.
It’s like watching hundreds of small, heart-shaped sunrises throughout the spring and summer.
Give your garden the royal treatment and purchase one at Planting Tree.
17. Ruby Falls
‘Ruby Falls’ is a dwarf type, so it stays petite, topping out at about 10 feet tall and spreading six feet wide.
But as you may have guessed from the name, it doesn’t have the typical upright growth habit. The branches are gracefully weeping, like a mauve waterfall.
The blossoms are deep purple, with leaves that emerge deep purple before transitioning to deep green over the summer.
Unlike some other weeping varieties like ‘Lavender Twist,’ it doesn’t become bare at the top as it ages.
Bred by Denny Werner of NCSU, a noted redbud breeder, it’s also particularly pest- and disease-resistant.
Fast Growing Trees carries four- to five-foot-tall saplings of this exceptional cultivar should you want to bring one home. And you should!
18. Tennessee Pink
C. canadensis ‘Tennessee Pink’ is appealing because of its dwarf stature, growing no taller than 12 feet, and its broad canopy, which can stretch up to 15 feet wide.
The rounded canopy is wrapped in pure blush pink blossoms that lack the purple hue that many redbuds have.
The blossoms last for at least three weeks before making way for the glossy, dark green leaves. Then, in the fall, the heart-shaped foliage turns bright yellow.
19. Vanilla Twist
How about a C. canadensis redbud with a bit of a twist on the traditional pink-blossomed, upright tree?
‘Vanilla Twist’ has a weeping form that grows about 12 feet tall and eight feet wide with bright white blossoms.
The graceful branches arch down to within a foot of the ground, creating the look of a bubbling fountain of flowers.
Anytime you find a tree bred by Dr. Dennis Werner, a horticulturalist at North Carolina State University, you know you’re probably in for a good thing. That’s definitely the case here.
Zig Zag® is a C. canadensis cultivar unlike anything else out there.
Yes, the magenta blossoms in the spring are beautiful and the bright orange foliage in the fall is eye-catching, but this tree turns heads namely because of its trunk and branches.
The trunk and branches zig and zag back and forth in symmetrical lines, forming a honeycomb effect overall that deserves a double and triple take.
It’s so stellar, whether the tree is covered in snow or blossoms.
Find the Right Redbud for You
Redbuds used to be an easy choice. You want some bright color in the early spring on a tree that isn’t too huge? Grab a redbud.
But these days, some excellent breeders have created cultivars with variegated leaves, weeping forms, white flowers, and pink leaves. We’re spoiled for choice!
So what about you? Which redbud is calling your name? Did we miss one that you particularly love? Fill us in by leaving a message in the comments below.
If you’d like to bring home a few friends for your redbuds, and you felt like this guide was useful, we have some other guides to landscape trees that can help you make your decision, including:
There are certain houseplants out there that shall remain unnamed (including one in particular that rhymes with middleleaf jig…) that have gained massive popularity despite being royal pains in the you-know-what to grow. But the Swiss cheese plant deserves its moment in the spotlight.
Those big, holey leaves are show-stopping, without a doubt, but this is also a plant that is easy to care for. It won’t start tossing its leaves to the ground in a huff if it doesn’t get the exact perfect amount of sun, humidity, or water.
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Add to that the fact that you can make dozens of little baby monsteras (as they’re also known) with very little effort, and it’s clear to see why this beauty has popped up in stylish spaces practically everywhere.
We’re going to go over everything a Swiss cheese plant lover needs to know to raise, propagate, and care for these distinctive houseplants.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
If you are as excited as I am about this iconic green wonder, then let’s start our journey!
Cultivation and History
The scientific name of this popular houseplant is Monstera deliciosa. Huh? Delicious monster?
Basically, yes. Deliciosa refers to the edible fruit (which rarely shows up on those grown indoors), while Monstera probably means monster or monstrous in reference to the massive leaves, each one of which can potentially grow three feet long.
So why “Swiss cheese plant”? That’s because of the holes that form in the leaves. The technical term for this growth is fenestration.
The Latin word “fenestrare” means an opening for light, so you can see where this term comes from. Architects use this term, too, to describe openings in the envelope of a building. But I digress…
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
As you can imagine, wide, long leaves can form quite the umbrella, or parasol, over the soil.
Fenestrated leaves develop on certain plants so wind can move more easily through them, or so that light can filter through them like windows, as the name for this phenomenon implies.
Other plants have fenestration so that water can fall through the holes to reach the roots.
So, why do monsteras form their holes?
The current theory as to why Swiss cheese plants fenestrate is to allow more light to be captured. In the American Naturalist Vol. 181 No. 2, Professor Christopher D. Muir of the Department of Biology at Indiana University argues that fenestration maximizes the plant’s chance of catching sunlight as it filters through the canopy of the forests where it grows.
As you have probably gathered, monsteras grow beneath trees. They are semi-epiphytic, sending out both ground and aerial roots as they vine up taller plants.
Members of the Araceae family, which also includes calla lilies and peace lilies, these plants are also often called split-leaf philodendrons. But while they are related to those oh-so-familiar houseplants, and part of the same family, they aren’t technically philodendrons.
In Victorian England, the plant was cultivated in hothouses for the fruit, which tastes something like what you’d get if a banana and a pineapple made a delicious baby.
The fruit is one of the reasons that people were interested in cultivating this beauty originally, though it’s obviously much more popular as a houseplant these days.
Known as Mexican breadfruit, it’s tasty stuff, so if you have a chance to try it, don’t pass it up.
Native to tropical areas of the North American continent from Mexico to Panama, it’s hardy in USDA Zones 10 to 12, and does well indoors if given a good amount of indirect light.
It has been introduced to some tropical areas around the world, and has even started to become invasive in some places.
Notably, though they prefer a good amount of light, monsteras are distinct from many other plants because they exhibit negative phototropism. This means at some points in their lives, particularly when they are young, they grow away from the light rather than towards it.
In the wild, they can grow to be really, really big – we’re talking up to 70 feet tall. But don’t worry, in your house they’ll probably top out at about eight feet tall and six feet wide, assuming you give them something to climb.
Propagation
Swiss cheese plants are one of the easiest species to propagate that I have ever come across.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
If you want to feel like a real plant parenting professional, this is an excellent option to start with.
It is possible to grow Swiss cheese plants from seed, but there’s a catch: You absolutely must find a reliable source.
A quick internet search will reveal tons of “rare” and unique M. deliciosa seeds for sale, but you can’t always be sure of what you’re getting. Some reviewers that I noted say their “monstera” seeds grew up to be basil!
It’s best to find a specialty retailer that you can trust. Besides ensuring positive identification of healthy seeds of the variety that you are actually hoping to grow, that’s because the seeds also need to be extremely fresh in order to germinate.
It’s best if they are shipped fresh in moist sphagnum moss or a box that can keep them cool. Better yet, find someone with fresh fruits, slice them open, and pry out the fresh seeds.
You can store the seeds in a sealed container in the fridge for up to a week if you can’t sow them right away.
When it’s time to sow the seeds, fill a four-inch or larger container with a seed starting medium. Insert a single seed into the mix half an inch deep.
Moisten the soil and keep it moist, like a well wrung-out sponge. Place the container in a spot with lots of bright, indirect light.
In two to three weeks, a little green stem should poke out of the soil. This will eventually unfurl into a leaf. Now you can transplant your new seedling, as described below.
From Cuttings
This is the easiest plant I have ever propagated by taking cuttings. It’s so easy, in fact, that I figured out how to do it accidentally.
I like to snip a few of the leaves from my main plant to put in a vase and display on my dining table. The first time I did this, when I went to toss out the leaves to replace them with some new ones, I noticed that the existing leaves had grown long roots.
I hadn’t changed the water in weeks (I know, I was traveling…) and the leaves weren’t receiving much light, but there they were: healthy roots.
I figured, why not try planting them in some soil to see if they would grow? And sure enough, within a few weeks, I had a thriving plant.
I’ve done this dozens of times since then, and each time I’m as lazy as the first. Even still, my house is overflowing with Swiss cheese plants, and I give them away to friends too.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
If you want, you can use my lazy method, or you can go the more technically appropriate route. This involves cutting a leaf with a node attached and planting it in soil.
The node is the bit where the stalk (petiole) meets the stem of the parent plant. If you see multiple leaves emerging from one spot, that’s a node. If you cut above this, you won’t be able to grow roots – whether in soil or water. Cut a few inches below a node, and you’ll be good.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
Insert the cutting into a soilless potting medium meant for starting seeds. Keep the medium moist but not wet, and place the cutting where it will receive lots of indirect sunlight. Six hours or more is ideal.
Eventually, you should see new leaves starting to develop at the base of the plant. This can take a few weeks. When this happens, it’s time to transplant the seedling into a permanent pot, or outdoors.
Air Layering
Air layering takes a bit more work, but it is just as reliable as the cutting method. You need a slightly older plant that has a thick, hard stem. This doesn’t work on young, flexible stems.
Make an incision about a quarter of the way through the stem that’s about an inch long. This should be right near a node. If you can do all this near an aerial root, all the better.
Wrap the cut, and the aerial root if there is one, in moistened sphagnum moss. Seal it up loosely with some plastic wrap or a plastic baggie that you’ve cut open so it lays flat. Tape the bottom, and use a twist tie to secure the top.
Every couple of days, open the top and make sure the moss is wet. Give it a good spray of water if it’s drying out, from a spritz bottle.
After a few weeks, you should see a ton of new roots forming inside the plastic. At this point, you can remove the plastic and moss, and sever the stem from the rest of the plant using a pair of clean secateurs. Plant this as you would a transplant.
Transplanting
This is the most common way to get your hands on your first monstera.
You can even pick one up in a nine-inch container at Fast Growing Trees in a three-gallon pot. Your plant even comes with a one year warranty on the off chance that you manage to (accidentally!) kill it.
If you decide to buy a started plant, you can leave it in the container it came in (assuming it has drainage holes, a quality potting medium, and isn’t pot-bound) or you can transplant it into a new container.
Before you move your new monstera, prep the container first. Fill the bottom of the container with a bit of all-purpose potting soil. There should be enough at the base that the plant will sit at the same height that it was before.
Squeeze the sides of the plastic container that the plant came in and gently tug the whole thing out by the stem. Gently loosen the roots and knock away some of the soil.
The goal is to encourage the plant to spread out, and to remove old soil so you can replace it with fresh stuff.
Place it in the prepared container and fill it in with potting soil. Give it a good soak.
How to Grow
You have to love a plant that doesn’t make a lot of demands on your time. Swiss cheese plants are like that. They’re cool if you want to just leave them be for a while.
They don’t need to be constantly moist. Just water when the top inch or two of soil dries out.
Alternatively, you can place them somewhere that they will receive direct sunlight for a few hours a day.
However, you will need to transition them to the sunnier spot over a series of weeks by gradually allowing them to receive more light each day in increments of 15 minutes or so until they are sitting in direct sun for up to four hours per day.
You can increase the humidity near the plant by grouping it with other plants or using a humidifier. These plants prefer humidity above 40 percent.
But don’t stress over it, though – other plants might drop leaves or turn brown if they are too dry, but unless your air is seriously dry, your monstera will be fine.
So long as you keep your house at an average temperature somewhere between 60 and 80°F, your monstera will be happy. Watch out if things drop below 50°F. (If that happens, you might also want to check your pipes for freezing!)
Encourage Fenestration
Many gardeners love the heavily fenestrated leaves of the Swiss cheese plant, and if you count yourself as one of those people, then you might want to learn how to encourage your plant to form those lovely holes.
First, know that a young plant won’t typically fenestrate for its first few years. However, this doesn’t apply to plants formed by taking cuttings. I can tell you from firsthand experience that a cutting can start fenestration within just a few months.
In fact, as I write this, a cutting that I planted six months ago is sitting next to me.
It started out as one single solid leaf and now it has seven smallish leaves, three of which are heavily fenestrated.
And despite some theories that only larger, fully mature leaves will fenestrate, two of the fenestrated leaves emerged with the holes already formed.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
Anyway, back to the point. It’s possible to encourage your plant to form deep slits and holes. Having said that, know that unless you trim away any solid leaves that you see, there will always be certain ones that don’t fenestrate.
So, if you’re sure your plant is the right age, how do you encourage it to split?
Give it plenty of sunlight and the right amount of water. If you don’t provide enough light and water, the plant won’t have the right conditions to develop the leaves you’re looking for.
Growing Tips
Water when the top inch of soil has dried out.
Provide bright, indirect light.
Ensure that you provide adequate water and light to encourage fenestration.
Maintenance
Your most difficult job when it comes to maintaining Swiss cheese plants is repotting, when necessary. These plants can grow to be extremely large and unruly, so you might need to enlist a friend to help.
Remember that you need a container with good drainage, and once your plant starts sending out tons of aerial roots and touching the edges of the current pot, it’s time to go up a size.
That said, you can constrict a monstera to encourage it to stay smaller. It will send out lots of aerial roots, but it will be perfectly fine. Just prune away some of the foliage to help constrain its growth.
When you repot, remove the existing plant from its container. You might want to use a stock or narrow saw to loosen the root ball from the edge of the container. You can also wrap the leaves in a towel or blanket to help corral them.
Then, prepare a new container with a bit of soil in the bottom so the crown will be sitting at the same level it was before. Knock away as much of the old soil as you can, and put the root ball in the new pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting soil.
Be sure to wipe the leaves with a moist cloth now and then to remove any dust. This allows the leaves to breathe and access light.
Finally, if you are growing variegated ‘Albo,’ be sure to remove any leaves that appear without variegation.
The white coloring that this variety is known for occurs thanks to a genetic mutation, whereas the unique coloration of ‘Thai Constellation’ variegated plants grown from tissue culture is more stable.
Climbing
As your plant ages, you might want to give it something to climb. This is especially true if you decide to contain your plant rather than repotting it.
After a plant matures, it can become quite floppy. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing, if you want to create a hanging or trailing look over a shelf.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
A pole covered in moss or coconut coir is ideal, though you can also use a trellis.
Just know that this plant doesn’t twine itself in and out of structures. It uses its aerial roots to cling to things instead, so you’ll need to guide it through the holes to fill the trellis in if that’s the look you’re going for.
A mossy pole also serves to recreate the environment that this plant evolved to survive in. Remember, it grows up mossy trunks in the wild.
To encourage your Swiss cheese plant to climb, loosely tie the main stem to the pole or trellis.
You don’t need to affix it firmly, just encourage the stem to grow upright near the pole. Then, as aerial roots emerge, either wrap them around the pole or loosely fasten them with twine.
Once you give your monstera a climbing start, it will figure things out on its own, and will attach new roots to the pole.
Varieties to Select
If you are ready to welcome a Swiss cheese plant into your home, you can find 12- to 18-inch-tall M. deliciosa plants in seven-inch, decorative metal pots available from Terrain.
There are several additional monstera species that are popular houseplants, of which M. adansonii is probably the most common.
This one is often labeled as a Swiss cheese plant as well, but you can tell that it is a different species by its smaller leaves with holes that are more narrow than those of M.deliciosa.
Less often, you’ll see M. pinnatipartita, which has large leaves with heavy fenestration that extends from the edges of the leaves to the midrib, giving them an almost fern-like appearance.
Of the species deliciosa, there is a cultivar with variegated leaves, and that is the coveted ‘Variegata.’ This puppy is extremely expensive because it is fairly uncommon, but it’s easy to see why people will pay good money to get their hands on it.
Picture the Swiss cheese plant’s massive, fenestrated leaves and add patches of marbling in light green, creamy yellow, and off-white.
Some leaves might even have one side that is creamy white, or they might be entirely that color. It’s extremely striking.
There are a couple of other variegated cultivars out there as well, including ‘Albo Variegata,’ which has chunky near-white patches and pure-white leaves.
Often referred to simply as ‘Albo,’ it’s fussy and needs carefully maintained conditions since those distinct light patches are expressed because the plant produces less chlorophyll than its solid counterparts.
It’s also prone to sunscald, so don’t place any variegated varieties in direct sunlight. And it is more susceptible to disease as well.
‘Thai Constellation’
You might also see ‘Thai Constellation,’ which has white speckles rather than patches. Again, it’s more challenging to care for than a solid monstera, but not as finicky as ‘Albo.’
Both sell for a pretty penny, so be prepared to open your wallet.
Managing Pests and Disease
Monsteras are sturdy. They aren’t delicate and in need of pampering to stay healthy (okay, except for the rare ‘Albo’ cultivar). But no matter how diligent you are or how hardy the plant is, occasional pest infestations and infections are possible.
Should you run into trouble, here’s how to cope.
Insects
In my experience, pests are the problem on houseplants more often than diseases. You should become familiar with the following insects, because they’re extremely common.
Having no natural predators indoors, these insects can reproduce rapidly.
Aphids
Where there are plants, there are aphids. It’s just a matter of when, not if, you will be visited by them.
That said, unless you have a very young Swiss cheese plant, it’s unlikely that these pests will cause much trouble. The waxy coating on the leaves and stems makes them unattractive to these common sapsuckers.
Signs of an infestation include yellowing and drooping leaves. Examine your plant and look for tiny pear-shaped insects that are green, yellow, brown, orange, or peach. They may or may not have wings.
To control them, place the plant in a shower or tub, and spray the foliage and stems with water to knock the bugs loose. You might have to do this once a week for a few weeks.
If that’s not working, break out the neem oil or insecticidal soap. You’ll need to spray your plant with it once every week or two, as long as the pests are present.
Scale
Scale is common on indoor plants. These small sap-suckers can look a lot more like a sign of disease than pests, but they are in fact insects.
The most common species on indoor plants is brown scale (Coccus hesperidum). These are flat and brown, and you need to look extremely close to see their heads or legs. They like to cluster on the stems and will sometimes venture onto the leaf surfaces.
When they infest a plant, you’ll see leaf yellowing and stunted growth. New foliage will be slow to emerge. It won’t fenestrate, and it won’t grow as large as it should.
On the bright side, if you are the patient sort, this is a fairly easy problem to remedy. Isolate your plant and grab a bunch of cotton swabs and some rubbing alcohol.
Dip the swabs and rub the alcohol onto the carapaces of the scale. You’ll have to keep at this, but eventually, you can wipe out an infestation.
If you have a bigger problem than cotton swabs can address, trim away the worst of the infested leaves and stems and dispose of them. Then, spray weekly with insecticidal soap until there’s no more evidence of infestation.
There are many different species of spider mites, but red spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) are the ones that love to hang out on houseplants. They’re itty-bitty, so it’s unlikely that you’ll know they’re there until you spot fine webbing on your poor plant.
When you see webbing, it’s time to act.
Spider mites are fairly wimpy when it comes to moisture. If you water your plant well and keep the area humid, visits by these pests aren’t common.
Upping the frequency of your watering routine and increasing humidity are also excellent ways to eliminate them.
You can also rinse them off, as you would do with aphids. If none of that works to remedy the situation in your circumstances, break out the insecticidal soap.
Disease
Diseases aren’t at all common (you aren’t growing ‘Albo’… right?), but you can’t rule out the possibility of infection entirely. Be prepared to deal with the following, just in case:
Anthracnose
Caused by fungal species in the Colletotrichum genus, this disease causes the leaves to start to yellow on the margins before turning entirely yellow and dying. You might also see yellow coloring or lesions on the stems.
Your best bet at achieving control is to take a multi-pronged approach.
First, be sure to water at the base of the plant, not on the foliage. Reduce watering a bit until the problem is gone.
At the same time, use a copper spray designed for use on indoor plants. Apply it according to the manufacturer’s directions, spraying once a week or every 10 days.
If the problem still won’t go away, you’re going to need to break out the big guns. A product containing Bacillus subtilis can be extremely effective. CEASE is perhaps the most well-known of these.
If you decide to go this route, apply the beneficial bacteria twice a week by spraying the leaves and stems thoroughly.
Pick up some CEASE, which contains B. subtilis, at Arbico Organics in one- or 2.5-gallon containers.
That might sound like a lot for treating just one houseplant, but you can also use it outdoors on veggies or ornamentals, and it doesn’t kill beneficial insects such as bees. It also is effective against a bunch of annoying fungal issues.
Bacterial Leaf Spot
A lot of people are surprised to learn that plants can be impacted by viral and bacterial pathogens, just like humans and other animals can.
Bacterial leaf spot is caused by a wide range of bacterial species, but these are usually in the Pseudomonas or Xanthomonas genera.
It typically appears as small brown leaf spots. These spots differ from those caused by overwatering because they appear in small clusters at the center of the leaf.
Sadly, there isn’t an effective treatment available. But if you are diligent about pruning away any symptomatic leaves, you can generally eliminate it.
Root or Stem Rot
Rotting roots or stems can be caused by two things: overwatering, and fungi.
The first drowns the roots, depriving them of oxygen, and essentially smothering the plant to death. Gruesome. It’s easier for this to happen than you might realize, because monstera roots like to have access to plenty of air, and they don’t take well to being smothered.
The second is caused by fungi in the Pythium, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium genera.
Regardless, both problems look the same. You’ll start to see dark spots on the margins of the leaves. These spots grow larger until the entire exterior of the leaf is a sad brown and yellow color.
After that, the leaves die, and the entire plant can even die if a case of rot is severe.
Since it’s impossible for home gardeners to tell which variety your plant is suffering from, you need to treat both problems at once.
First, trim away any impacted leaves. Pull your plant from its pot. Brush or wash away as much soil from the roots as you can.
Then, spray the roots with a product containing Bacillus subtilis. As I mentioned above, CEASE is a good option.
Sanitize the container with a 10 percent bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water) after rinsing out any soil and allow it to dry. Switch to a container with better drainage if you need to. Repot your plant with fresh soil.
Spray the foliage with the same product you used on the roots, once every other week for two months.
Going forward, water less often than you were watering before. Check the soil with your finger or use a moisture meter to be sure that you’re not overwatering.
For such dramatic statement plants, Swiss cheese plants sure don’t need much fuss. With minimal care, they’ll reward you with big, glossy, fenestrated leaves that command attention in any room.
On the rare chance that you run into trouble, don’t hesitate to come back and let us know in the comments what problems you’re experiencing. Hopefully we can help!
If you want to add some more houseplant buddies to your plant menagerie, read these articles next:
Cultivated to produce fruit in the colder areas of Canada, P. fruticosa x cerasus ‘Juliet’ is a dwarf cherry tree hybrid that combines the cold-hardiness of sour cherries (P. cerasus) with the higher sugar content – and small stature – of the Mongolian cherry (P. fruticosa).
Mongolian cherry (P. fruticosa). Photo by Hermann Schachner via Wikimedia Commons CC0.
Offering a prolific harvest in midsummer, this cultivar will grow to six to eight feet tall at maturity with a five- to six-foot spread.
It prefers well-drained soil and is self-pollinating.
Because of its hybrid genetics, the fruits from this tree are tart but also extremely sweet, creating a wonderfully complex and deep flavor.
With a higher Brix rating than many sweet varieties, ‘Juliet,’ although technically a sour hybrid, may be your answer to a cold hardy sweet cherry – as long as you don’t mind a tart undertone.
‘Juliet’ produces deep red to purple cherries that are excellent for fresh eating but also for preserving, baking, and freezing.
If ‘Juliet’ sounds as tempting to you as it does to me, dwarf trees of this cultivar are available as potted two- to four-year-old plants from Nature Hills.
2. Nanking
Who wants a whole hedge to pick cherries from that’s rated to produce fruit in Zones 2 to 6?
If this sounds like a dream come true, the multi-use P. tomentosa ‘Nanking’ cherry may be the plant you’re looking for.
Also known as downy, hedge, Chinese bush, or Manchu, this shrub will grow to eight to 10 feet tall with a spread of 10 to 15 feet at maturity.
P. tomentosa in fruit
Perfect as a windbreak hedgerow when planted en masse, but also charming when used as a specimen plant, ‘Nanking’ adapts to a wide variety of soil types. It thrives in climates with cold winters and hot summers and can handle the occasional drought.
Available from Nature Hills Nursery, ‘Nanking’ produces bright red cherries that are sweet and tart, but not too tart to eat fresh. They can also be juiced, or used for baking or preserves.
If an early to midsummer crop of fruit in Zone 2 isn’t enough, ‘Nanking’ also has ornamental value in its showy spring flowers, reddish brown bark, and golden fall color.
Truly cold hardy, it’s an early bloomer with frost-tolerant flowers. Be sure to plant more than one shrub – although ‘Nanking’ is self-pollinating, it often fails to set fruit without another nearby.
‘Nanking’ can be purchased as a one- to two-foot bare root plant from Nature Hills.
3. Canada Red Select
P. virginiana ‘Canada Red Select’ is a variety of chokecherry, a shrub or understory tree that was traditionally highly regarded as a food by Native American populations such as the Cheyenne and Blackfoot peoples.
Chokecherries are extremely cold hardy, surviving and thriving in Zones 2 to 7.
Chokecherry covered with ripe berries
This plant is not picky about its soil, and if a 25-foot-tall tree sounds a little tall for harvesting fruit, don’t worry, it can be pruned to a manageable shrub size or shaped into a small tree.
The ‘Canada Red Select’ variety, available from Nature Hills, grows 20 to 25 feet tall at maturity and 18 to 20 feet wide, but if you live in a cold desert climate like I do, it will take quite a while to reach its full size.
Ripening late, the deep red to black fruits of this US native are very tart but are made more palatable when transformed into a sprightly jelly or wine with the help of a little sugar.
If you’re a fan of all things sour, you might enjoy eating this fruit raw – the flesh is edible without cooking, but pits contain cyanide and should never be eaten.
Does giving chokecherry a spot in your orchard sound like a brilliant idea? If so, ‘Canada Red Select’ is available as a one- to two-foot bare root plant from Nature Hills Nursery.
This plant is only partly self-fertile, so make sure you buy more than one.
4. Carmine Jewel
Like ‘Juliet,’ P. fruticosa x cerasus ‘Carmine Jewel’ is a dwarf hybrid tree created from the parentage of sour and Mongolian cherries. This cultivar will flourish in Zones 3 to 8.
‘Carmine Jewel’ tree covered with blossoms
Available from Nature Hills, ‘Carmine Jewel’ will mature to a diminutive six to seven feet tall with a four- to eight-foot spread.
A self-pollinator that requires well-drained soil, its small size means that it can be used as an ornamental shrub as well as a fruit-producer.
A heavy producer for its small size, ‘Carmine Jewel’ bears an early harvest of small, deep red cherries that are both tart and sweet. With small pits, the fruits are excellent for all manner of culinary preparations.
‘Carmine Jewel’ is available as two- to four-year-old plants from Nature Hills.
Rated hardy in Zones 3 to 7, ‘Romeo’ will yield a mid- to late summer harvest of up to 25 pounds of fruit at maturity.
Best planted in well-drained soil, this dwarf tree will mature to 6-8 feet tall with a spread of five to six feet, and can be treated as a shrub in the landscape.
While not quite as sweet as the sumptuous ‘Juliet,’ ‘Romeo’ nevertheless bears a very sweet tart cherry and is available from Nature Hills.
‘Romeo’ produces fruits that are dark, almost black, with small pits. They are excellent for baking, canning, winemaking, and gobbling straight from the tree.
While ‘Romeo’ is self-fruitful, this variety blooms at the same time as ‘Juliet,’ making them excellent companions.
‘Romeo’ dwarf trees are available as potted two- to four-year-old plants from Nature Hills.
6. Western Sand
Native to the Northern Great Plains, P. pumila var. besseyi ‘Western Sand’ cherry is a cold hardy shrub that will produce a heavy crop of dark fruit with a flavor reminiscent of plums.
Western Sand Cherry via Wikimedia Commons
Thriving in Zones 3 to 6, ‘Western Sand’ cherries reach a height and spread of five to six feet at maturity, and can be used as hedges, borders, or specimen plants.
Also known as ‘Rocky Mountain Sand,’ this shrub can be planted in any type of soil and has silver-green foliage that transforms into striking shades of burgundy and purple in autumn. You can find this variety at Nature Hills Nursery.
The early-ripening, dark purple to black fruits of this self-pollinator are sweet with an astringent edge, and can be eaten raw or used to make jellies and pies.
‘Western Sand’ cherry can be purchased as a four-foot bare root plant from Nature Hills.
7. English Morello
Grown in Europe since the 1700s, P. cerasus ‘English Morello’ is a self-fertile, naturally dwarf sour cherry tree that produces a late harvest of fruit in Zones 4 to 9.
Espaliered ‘English Morello’ tree
While it will adapt to all soil types, if given the choice this heirloom prefers rich, well-draining, moist soil.
Well-suited to pruning, ‘English Morello’ has traditionally been the variety of choice for espaliering, and is available from Nature Hills Nursery.
Without pruning it can reach 15 to 20 feet tall with a spread of 12 to 30 feet at maturity.
‘English Morello’ produces juicy, dark red cherries with red flesh and a sour flavor, which can be enjoyed fresh, or turned into beautiful pies or jams. They hold their shape, so will work well for freezing and preserves, too.
If you’re ready to take the next step towards filling your own homemade pies, ‘English Morello’ is available as a four- to five-foot bare root tree from Nature Hills.
8. Early Richmond
An ancient variety, P. cerasus ‘Early Richmond’ has been around since the 1500s. It was so popular in Europe that it was brought to Colonial America by English settlers.
This sour cherry tree is adapted to Zones 4 to 8, will thrive in moist to well-drained soil, and is drought tolerant.
‘Early Richmond’ tree in bloom
This self-pollinating variety is semi-dwarf, growing to a mature height of 15 to 18 feet tall with a 12- to 30-foot spread, and will benefit from pruning to keep its delicious fruit within easy reach.
‘Early Richmond’ produces an abundant, early harvest of tart cherries with light red skins and juicy flesh, great for cooking, baking, and preserving – if you can manage to keep yourself from eating all of them straight off the tree.
Developed in the Montmorency Valley in France, the semi-dwarf P. cerasus ‘Montmorency’ cultivar dates back to at least the 17th century and is now the most popular sour variety used in commercial production, due to its adaptability to different growing conditions.
Ripe ‘Montmorency’ fruit on tree
Available from FastGrowingTrees.com, ‘Montmorency’ will thrive in Zones 4 to 7 and is easy-going about its soil.
Loamy, well-drained, and sandy soils are all just fine by this cultivar, which will reach a mature height of eight to18 feet and a spread of 10 to 20 feet.
An early producer, ‘Montmorency’ bears fruits that are large and bright red with yellow flesh and clear juice. The cherries from this variety have a rich, tangy flavor, making them excellent for use in baked goods and preserves.
‘Montmorency’ is available from FastGrowingTrees.com. It is only partly self-fertile, so for a larger harvest you’ll need to plant two or more trees.
Cold Hardy Cherry Comparison Table
Cordial to the Cold
With nine different cold hardy varieties to choose from, it may be time to plan for a cold-climate cherry orchard including a selection of these diverse plants.
Wouldn’t a freezer full of different cherries be just the thing to brighten up a long, cold winter?
Are you feeling tempted by sweet ‘Juliet’ or enchanted by tart ‘Montmorency?’ Let us know in the comments which of these cultivars has your mouth watering – and your botanical interest piqued.
And if planning a cold hardy orchard is what warms you up, you might enjoy taking a peek at our other articles on cold tolerant fruit trees next:
Every summer, my deck is adorned with the vibrant multicolored foliage of coleus.
From vivid pinks to moody dark maroons, in an almost endless variety of patterns, these tropical plants make a strong statement in beds, borders, and containers.
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Members of the mint family, Lamiaceae, plants in the Coleus genus are related to kitchen garden herbs including basil, sage, and marjoram, and they show off their colorful foliage from spring to first frost.
There are a huge variety of cultivars available, from muted green hues to bright reds and yellows, the variegated foliage is available in almost every color except true blue.
Most types are shade-loving, and prefer just a little morning sun, however plant breeders have developed a number of sun-tolerant varieties.
They typically have a mounding growth habit with mature heights of up to three feet tall, and there are also trailing varieties available, ideal for hanging baskets, growing as a ground cover, or spilling over the sides of large pots.
Also known as “painted nettle,” these beauties typically have slightly hairy, fleshy leaves with serrated edges up to six inches long and wide, with square stalks.
During the summer, plants produce inflorescences of small tubular flowers, which may be delicately fragrant.
Are you ready to grow coleus in your garden? Let’s get started! Here’s what I’ll cover:
Cultivation and History
Species in the Coleus genus are native to tropical and subtropical regions from southeast Asia to Australia, and are naturalized in many other tropical regions.
They were first brought to England in the 19th century, from Java, by Karl Ludwig Blume.
They became very popular in the US and Europe during Victorian times, as a bedding plant and as specimen plants in the elegant parlors and conservatories of the well-to-do.
Savvy plant breeders of the time capitalized on this enthusiasm, producing different hybrid varieties in a range of colors and patterns, which fetched high prices during this so-called “coleus craze.”
While ladies were delicately sipping tea and comparing foliage colors, botanists were arguing over taxonomic classifications, and we can only hope that a phylogenetic study by Alan Paton et al, published in 2019 has cleared up the botanical naming once and for all: the popular plant that we grow in our gardens is Coleus scutellarioides.
But let’s backtrack a little.
In 1763, Carl Linnaeus classified this plant as Ocimum scutellarioides. Does that ring a bell? Basil, the popular garden herb is a species in the Ocimum genus.
In 1810, after close examination, Robert Brown decided that it should be a member of the genus Plectranthus. But George Bentham changed it to Coleus in 1830. In 1832, the plant that started the craze in Europe and the US was named C. blumei, after Karl Ludwig Blume (remember him?).
And so coleus got its name and its genus. Well, until 1962, when JK Morton from the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew, decided that what we were all calling “coleus” was not in fact Coleus at all, it was Plectranthus.
Another spanner appeared in the taxonomic works in 1975, when Leslie E W Codd, a South African botanist, reclassified it yet again into the genus Solenostemon.
As a result of all this taxonomic to-ing and fro-ing, you may see plants at local nurseries labelled Plectranthus scutellarioides, Coleus scutellarioides, C. blumei, Solenostemon scutellarioides or just plain “coleus.”
It’s also worth mentioning that in the Coleus genus, there are 294 species, many of which were transferred from the Plectranthus genus as a result of Paton’s study published in 2019.
In addition to the popular plant we grow in our gardens, there are a few other notable species:
C. rotundifolius has a tuberous root system and is grown in parts of the tropics for its edible tubers, known as native, Sudan, or Hausa potato in Africa, and Chinese potato in India.
C. barbartus, (aka C. forskohlii) is a medicinal plant used in Ayurvedic medicine, and the extract forskolin is the subject of a number of medical studies for its use in treating a variety of ailments.
C. canina, aka the “scaredy-cat plant” is a clone of C. comosus, an aromatic herb native to eastern Africa. Garden folklore (or clever marketing) suggests that it smells like a skunk and will repel dogs and cats from your yard.
But let’s get back to our garden favorite: C. scutellarioides.
Thankfully, in spite of all the botanical complications, coleus is easy to cultivate.
Propagation
The easiest way to get started growing your own coleus plants is to purchase nursery starts in spring. You can also purchase seeds and start them indoors – or outdoors, if you are in Zones 9-11.
It’s not advisable to collect seeds from existing plants, as many modern cultivars are hybrids and will not produce true to the parent plant, if the seeds are even viable.
If you do have a favorite plant that you wish to replicate, coleus is easy to propagate via stem cuttings.
Fill your seed flats or containers with potting mix and place three or four of the tiny seeds on top of the soil. They need light to germinate, so gently press them into the potting mix, but do not cover.
You may need to use a heat mat, as coleus seeds require a consistent temperature of 70-75°F to germinate. Place in a sunny windowsill and if desired, you can cover the tray with a humidity cover or plastic. If you use a humidity cover, make sure the seeds receive indirect light as direct sunshine will cause the seeds to cook.
Keep the potting mix moist but not waterlogged. To prevent the seeds from washing away, you can use a spray bottle or plant mister to gently water the soil.
After seven to 14 days, seeds will germinate, and at this point you can remove the humidity cover, if using. Thin the seedlings so that there is one plant per seed flat or container. Keep the seedlings in a sunny location and maintain even moisture in the soil.
When they have two sets of true leaves, or are about two to three inches tall, transplant them from your seed flats to three- to four-inch individual containers. Continue to provide even moisture, and never allow the soil to dry out.
After they have at least six sets of true leaves, or are about six inches tall, you can gently pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushy growth.
When all risk of frost has passed, you can transplant them into the garden or a permanent container, as described below.
If you’re in Zones 9-11, you can start your seeds outdoors. Wait until all danger of frost has passed, and nighttime temperatures are in the 60s.
Prepare your planting location by digging up the top layer of soil and adding some potting mix on which to place the seeds. Press the seeds lightly into the soil, and when seedlings have one set of true leaves, thin to six to 10 inches apart.
From Stem Cuttings
Stem cuttings take root easily, and this is a good way to create clones of your favorites.
You can take cuttings at any time of year, and what I especially like to do is to take them in late summer to keep indoors over the winter months so that by the time spring rolls around, my plants are ready to go!
Cut a four- to six-inch section of stem with clean pruning shears, and remove the leaves from the bottom three-quarters of the cutting.
You can either place these in water to root or in potting soil. If you’re using potting soil, dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone, make a hole in the soil and carefully plant the cutting.
Keep the cuttings in a bright location, out of direct sun, with temperatures between 60 to 75°F. If you’re growing them in water, make sure to change it every couple of days. If they’re in soil, keep it evenly moist but not waterlogged.
After a week or two, roots should start to develop, and when they are an inch or two long, you can transplant into a container filled with potting soil. You’ll know that your cuttings in soil have successfully rooted when you see evidence of new foliar growth.
Learn more about how to propagate coleus cuttings in our guide. (coming soon!)
Transplanting
Whether you have rooted your own cuttings, started your own seeds, or purchased nursery starts, you’ll need to wait until all risk of frost has passed before transplanting them into the garden – or to permanent outdoor containers.
Before transplanting, harden off your seedlings by placing them outdoors in a protected location for an hour a day, gradually increasing this time over the course or a week or 10 days to acclimate the young plants.
Prepare your planting location in advance. As mentioned, many cultivars prefer a part to full shade location, although there are varieties that can tolerate more sun. Check your seed packet or nursery tag for the variety you have chosen.
Select a sheltered location, where plants won’t be exposed to high winds, as they have delicate stems that are easily broken in windy locations.
You’ll need well-draining, loose, organically rich soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0. You may wish to conduct a soil test, and make amendments according to the results.
I prepare my beds by turning over the soil and adding well-rotted compost. If you wish, you can mix in some slow release 10-10-10 (NPK) fertilizer at planting time.
To transplant, dig a hole the same size as the container the plant is growing in, and gently remove it from the pot. Place it into the ground at the same depth as it was growing in its existing pot, and backfill with soil before watering in well.
You’ll need to space your plants according to the expected mature size of the cultivar you are growing, typically I plant them eight to 12 inches apart. If you plant them too close together, they will not receive adequate airflow which can cause a build up of humidity, possibly leading to fungal infections.
I love to grow my coleus in containers on my covered deck. You’ll need to make sure that you have a container large enough to accommodate the expected mature size of the plant, and leave room for other plants in a mixed planting.
A good quality, well-draining potting soil with added perlite is ideal.
As a minimum, you’ll want a pot that’s eight inches wide and deep for a single plant. If you want to plant more than one, or add some colorful annual flowers, then consider a large planter. Make sure your container has draining holes on the bottom.
You can learn more about how to grow coleus in containers in our guide. (coming soon!)
How to Grow
Coleus are low-maintenance, fast-growing plants that require little effort from you to thrive.
The main consideration is to ensure they have plenty of water and are never allowed to dry out. However, that doesn’t mean they want to be sitting in waterlogged soil.
Maintain even moisture, and if you’re growing them in containers, be extra vigilant, especially in hot weather, as pots dry out much more quickly than garden soil.
As a rule of thumb, if the soil is dry to an inch down, it’s time to water. They typically require about an inch of water per week, including rainfall. Not sure how to measure that? Take the guesswork out by using a rain gauge.
Try to avoid overhead irrigation, as this can contribute to the spread of fungal pathogens that thrive in damp, humid environments.
Pinch off growing tips to encourage bushy growth, as these plants can have a tendency to become a bit “leggy.” With regular pinching, the plant will produce more stems which gives it a more “full” appearance.
As far as pruning is concerned, you can snip off stems (and root them for more plants!) to shape the plant and encourage it to become more dense.
If you notice flower stalks emerging, snip or pinch these off immediately, to force the plant to put energy into the colorful foliage, instead of diverting it into the reproductive process.
You can fertilize during the growing season with a liquid houseplant fertilizer such as Alaska fish fertilizer, according to package instructions.
If you are growing your plants in containers, this fertilizer can be applied every two to three weeks. In the garden, two or three times during the growing season is usually sufficient.
Even though they are tropical plants that thrive in temperatures between 70-100°F, coleus may suffer from sunscald if it’s planted in direct sunlight. If you notice burnt leaf edges, bleached, or translucent patches in the foliage, it may be as a result of sunscald.
Consider using some shade cloth to protect plants from the sun or move containers to a more suitable location, and ensure plants are well watered, as sunscald is made worse by inadequate irrigation.
Growing Tips
Plant in a part to full shade location that receives some morning sun
Water when the top inch of soil is dry
Pinch growing tips and flower buds to encourage bushy growth
Cultivars to Select
There are hundreds of different coleus cultivars, with new ones being developed all the time. In addition to named cultivars, various series are available with unique characteristics in a variety of different colors.
Here are a few of my favorites, and you can read all about the best coleus cultivars in our guide. (coming soon!)
Black Dragon
With midnight-purple foliage, tinged with just a hint of red, and a compact growth habit, ‘Black Dragon’ makes a dramatic impact in beds, borders, and containers.
The small, deeply-lobed leaves have an almost velvet-like appearance, and this cultivar tops out at just 10 to 12 inches tall, with a similar spread.
It’s ideal as a moody bedding plant, or as an accent to more colorful flowering annuals.
It grows to a mature height of 12 to 20 inches, with a spread of 12 to 14 inches. A bushy plant with a mounding growth habit, ‘Chocolate Mint’ thrives in full shade.
With a mature height of 20 to 22 inches tall and a spread of 18 to 22 inches, it has a mounding growth habit and provides vibrant color to your garden or containers.
Coleus plants are typically not bothered by pest and disease issues, which are more common in commercial greenhouse environments, but the usual garden suspects like aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, and mealybugs may cause damage to the foliage and stunt the plants’ growth.
Severe infestations that go undetected can cause a build up honeydew, leading to sooty mold.
You can use neem oil or insecticidal soap, according to package instructions.
If you find evidence of slugs and snails munching on your plants, you can set out slug bait or waste precious beer in traps. An application of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants can help deter these pests.
A disease to watch out for is downy mildew, caused by the oomycete (water mold) Pernospora, shows up as leaf distortion, dropping, and white or gray spots on the top and bottom of the foliage.
Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease and you’ll need to remove infected plants and dispose of them in the trash to prevent it from spreading.
Powdery mildew, the bane of many gardeners, but typically not fatal, is characterized by a white covering that looks a little bit as though the foliage has been dusted with flour.
This condition is caused by a variety of different fungal pathogens and you can learn more about how to treat it in our guide.
Best Uses
While I love my perennial borders, what I particularly enjoy about annuals is that I can change up my color schemes every year.
Coleus is ideal for mass planting in those shady spots in the garden that often end up looking a bit bare.
In addition to color, coleus provides texture and can be used as a focal point, or to echo colors of other plants nearby.
The dense foliage can fill in spaces below larger specimens in containers or out in the garden.
You can also keep your coleus as a houseplant, the same principles apply: maintain even moisture, regular feeding, and indirect light.
Under ideal conditions, they may provide you with year-round color.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous perennial
Flower/Foliage Color:
Blue/Variegated all colors except true blue
Native to:
Southeast Asia to Australia
Tolerance:
Heat, shade, poor soil
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
Perennial 10-11, annual in other zones
Maintenance:
Low
Bloom Time/Season:
Spring-fall
Soil Type:
Organically rich
Exposure:
Part to full shade
Soil pH:
6.0-7.0
Spacing:
6-12 inches, depending on variety
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Surface sow seeds, same as root ball (transplants)
I bought my first ever coleus many years ago when I actually wanted a caladium. I was browsing a large nursery and found the price of caladiums to be almost eye-watering.
And there, in a little pot, was something that looked – almost – as showy.
Affordable, forgiving coleus came into my life and has been one of my favorite annuals ever since.
Do you love coleus as much as I do? Share your favorite uses for this dramatic plant in the comments section below, and feel free to share a picture!
And for more information about plants to grow in shady spots in your garden, check out these guides next:
One of the most exciting moments of my childhood was the sweet summer’s day when my mom gave me an entire raised bed in her square foot garden.
I had helped with the detestable task of digging post holes for a fence to keep deer and bears out of the garden – we lived in Montana in a place aptly named Bear Canyon – and my reward was well worth it.
My nine-year-old self didn’t care much for vegetables, but I did love herbs and flowers.
So that’s what I planted.
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Since it’s so easy to propagate, basil (Ocimum basilicum) earned a spot in my treasured little garden. Every morning that summer I’d leap out of bed and grab my watering can. Watching those tiny green seedlings grow and thrive gave me an unmatched sense of accomplishment.
If you’re just starting your adventure in the world of gardening or you love pesto, bruschetta, tomato and basil soup, pho, margherita pizza, and all the countless dishes where this herb is an absolute, unequivocal necessity, keep reading.
This guide will show you tips, tricks, and a secret or two on how to propagate it at home. For more information about basil, including history and cultivars, check out our complete growing guide.
Methods of Propagating Basil
Divide Grocery Store Plants
If you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 6-13, you can probably find basil at your grocery store in the spring and summer, and possibly into the fall and winter.
You know the type I’m talking about, right?
Those little packets or pots of “live basil plants,” complete with dirt and root balls? The ones you buy in the fresh produce section that say “store in the refrigerator” and are not specifically intended for planting?
Here’s a secret you should know: you can plant them, but these basil plants aren’t really one plant at all.
Supermarket basil is often a manufactured root ball comprised of a number of seedlings. This makes it look like an extremely healthy plant with scads of leaves, when really it’s a few different plants smushed together.
It’s a smart and inexpensive marketing tactic. And it’s fine for shoppers who are going to use all the leaves at once to make their own pesto, like this one from our sister site, Foodal.
But it’s bad news for beginner gardeners, who often try to plant this deceitful root ball at home only to watch it die within days. All the roots start competing with each other for water and sunshine, and none of them win.
There’s a silver lining here, though. Now that you know the secret of store bought basil plants, you’re equipped with knowledge to help you successfully propagate your own at home.
Here’s how:
First off, this herb isn’t a plant you’d typically divide because it’s so easy to grow new roots from a cutting.
With supermarket basil, though, as opposed to nursery plants, you’re not truly dividing one plant. You’re separating all those squished-together roots into separate plants that can actually grow and thrive.
To do this, you’ll need:
1 supermarket plant (live herbs with roots, sold in the produce section)
Plastic or ceramic pots at least 5 inches deep with good drainage (a draining hole) and saucers
First, gently remove the plant from its original container and lay it on a clean surface.
With your fingers, pry the root ball into two halves. Then divide those halves again and cut off weak or leggy shoots so that you have separate clumps with 3-4 leafy shoots per clump.
Plant each clump in its own container with fresh potting soil and water it with lukewarm water.
Basil likes to stay warm – hence the tepid water – and moist, yet well-drained, so give it water every other day or so for a total of 1-2 inches per week. Pour the water on the soil and not the leaves to avoid fungal problems.
Dump any liquid that leaks into the draining dish after each watering. The plant will take what it needs and let the rest drain, and you don’t want your plants to sit in waterlogged soil. This herb thrives in moist, well-drained soil, but it doesn’t like wet feet.
Finally, make sure you give each pot a spot on a sunny, south-facing windowsill.
If it’s not summertime, you may want to invest in a grow light. I like this one, available from Amazon. It’s a dual-headed clip-on gooseneck lamp, which means I can clip it on the windowsill and point it directly at my plants.
I can even point it at several plants at once, thanks to the two separate adjustable heads.
As the plants grow, pinch or cut the terminal bud – at the top of the plant – to support the growth of side shoots.
This will help your plant grow outward, not just upward, and will result in a bounty of deliciously fragrant leaves.
After two weeks, you can transplant the basil into larger pots and gift them to your friends.
Or, at least one week after your last frost date, start hardening the plants off by putting them outside for an increasing amount of time each day.
By the end of a full week, the plants should be ready for their home in your outdoor garden.
But what if you can’t find grocery store basil anywhere?
For those of us who live in USDA Hardiness Zones 1-5, it can be considerably harder to find live plants in our local stores – especially if it’s not summertime.
The good news is that if you can find a cutting, you can grow a new plant.
From Cuttings
It’s really almost magical, the things a basil plant can do, like growing new roots from a cutting.
Luckily for you, there are several places where you can get cuttings.
Are potted herbs available from a nursery in your area?
If you purchase just one plant and bring it home, you’ll be able to propagate more plants from the original parent, and you’ll get more basil for your buck in the long run.
If you’re like me and you live in Alaska, where the weather is currently hovering around 0°F and there’s no fresh basil for sale across the entire state, you’ll have to get creative.
Maybe you have a friend who would let you take a cutting from her indoor plant?
Or perhaps you enjoy Thai or Vietnamese dishes? (Stick with me here.)
If you’ve ever eaten pho, you’ve probably received a garnish plate featuring at least one basil cutting to enjoy with your meal.
Restaurants may have basil plants of their own, or a special way to import fresh cuttings to even the coldest states.
So the next time you’re at your favorite Vietnamese or Thai restaurant, order a dish that comes with a basil cutting, wrap the stem in a napkin, and bring it home.
If you’ve got an established plant handy to take a cutting from, find a nice long stem and cut just below the last leaf node.
If you’ve got a cutting from a restaurant, it’s probably a decent length already, but you can cut below the last leaf node as long as you’ve still got at least three inches left of the stem after you cut. Four or more inches of stem is even better.
You’ll need:
A basil cutting
A glass of fresh water
Powdered rooting hormone (optional)
To get started, trim the leaves off a two-inch section of the stem, starting from the base.
Place the trimmed cutting in a clear glass of water and find it a spot on a sunny windowsill.
You can first dip the bottom part of the stem in water and then roll it in a small amount of powdered rooting hormone if you wish. Just make sure you don’t overdo the amount of powder you apply, and be sure to tap the end of your cutting to remove any excess.
Keep in mind that many gardeners easily propagate basil from cuttings without using rooting hormone.
Some friends of mine have even experimented with growing cuttings with and without the powder and found that the cutting without it thrived while the other died.
Try this experiment yourself if you have several cuttings to work with, and see which method works best!
Ideally, give each cutting its own glass of water. However, you can propagate several cuttings at once by putting them in the same water glass to save space on your windowsill.
You’ll just need to separate the roots carefully when you remove the stems.
Keep the Water Clean
Change the water in your glass every other day. The rooting stems need clean, fresh water in order to thrive. If you leave the same water in the glass for too long, the stems are prone to rot.
Once the roots begin to form, wait until they’ve grown to at least two inches in length.
This can take anywhere from two to four weeks, so don’t worry if they seem a little slow to grow.
Pot Up the Rooted Cuttings
When the roots are two inches long, prepare an indoor planter or pot with fresh potting soil. Make sure the pot is at least five inches deep so that your basil cutting has plenty of room to flourish.
Plant one rooted stem per pot to avoid overcrowding. Cover the entire root system and the two inches of leafless stem with soil.
You’ll want to keep the transplants in the same sunny windowsill or use a grow light if needed.
Remember to pinch leaves off regularly to encourage new growth. A well-groomed basil plant is a happy one.
Sowing Seeds
Basil is easily propagated from seed with a little bit of care and attention.
A couple of days ago, the beautiful basil plant I brought indoors from my summertime garden died when I went out of town over Christmas because someone (ahem, my significant other) forgot to water it for me.
Sigh. Thankfully, I had a packet of seeds left over from the summer and I decided to propagate basil the old-fashioned way: by sowing seeds.
Since it’s bitterly cold here in Alaska, as it is in many places in the northerly regions of the US through the winter, it’s the perfect time to plant seeds indoors.
Gardening supplies won’t hit stores until April here, so I decided to plant my seeds in a container I already had: a big pot with a draining dish attached.
Photo by Laura Melchor.
You can also plant your basil seeds in starter trays, like these peat pots available on Amazon.
Planting them in peat pots makes it easier to transplant the basil outdoors once it’s established, but plastic pots work well too.
If you want to give your seeds a head start on germination, soak them overnight in 1/4 cup of lukewarm water.
Sow one or two seeds per pot and cover with 1/4 inch of soil. Or, if you’re planting directly into a larger ceramic or plastic pot, plant several seeds in a circle, about two inches apart.
You can thin them once they’ve germinated, or transplant them into different pots once they’re established.
After you’ve planted the seeds, give the basil an even, gentle watering. I used my son’s bath toy for an extremely gentle rain drip because I didn’t want to displace the tiny seeds.
Photo by Laura Melchor.
Basil doesn’t need light to germinate, but it does need warmth, which a grow light can provide.
You can also wrap plastic over the top of your pot to keep the soil warm and moist.
Just remember to remove the covering once the seeds start sprouting.
They should germinate within two weeks – and once germinated, the seedlings will need at least six hours of light each day.
Sow Seeds Outdoors
You can also sow seeds directly outside, especially if it’s summertime or you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 10-13.
Make sure that the last frost is at least a week behind you and sow the seeds six inches apart in a sunny patch of your garden. Cover with 1/4 inch of soil and water thoroughly.
No matter how you propagate your basil, as soon as your plant has several pairs of mature leaves, you can start harvesting the delicious herb.
Just remember to cut from the top so that your plant keeps growing outward, and to prevent bolting.
Use your fresh herbs in classic Mediterranean dishes, cocktails, and even sweet dishes like this recipe for lemon curd on basil shortbread from our sister site, Foodal. Or this one for citrus honey basil creamsicles, also from Foodal.
Whether you propagated one basil plant or ten, a whole lot of deliciousness awaits you.
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