As gardeners we often worry about how cold it can get before our plants start to suffer, but there are many species out there that are just as sensitive to weather that is too warm. Tulips are one such plant.
If it doesn’t get cool enough for long enough in your area, your tulips won’t bloom.
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Ready to throw up your hands in defeat and give up your dreams of a field full of tulips?
It’s actually possible to trick your plants into thinking that they’re living in the sort of climate they prefer if your neck of the woods is too warm.
If you live in a warm climate and your tulips have struggled or even failed, this guide aims to set you back on the path toward success.
Coming up, here’s what we’ll discuss:
Anyone in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 will definitely have to chill their tulips.
You might even need to chill them in Zone 7, depending on where you plant them.
For example, if you plant your tulips next to a brick or cement wall, the reflected heat will be too much for the plants, and they’ll require chilling to rebloom.
How Cold Should Temperatures Be?
When winter rolls around and most plants go dormant, tulip bulbs are busy prepping for the coming year. The bulbs go dormant early, in the summer rather than the winter.
During the cold period of wintertime weather, the bulbs start to convert the starches and other carbohydrates that they collected and stored during the growing season into sugar in the form of glucose.
Not only does this glucose protect the bulb from freezing, but it supplies the nutrients the bulb needs to send out roots, flowers, and leaves in the spring.
The soil surrounding the tulips must drop below 55°F for all this to happen.
There isn’t an exact time period required for the bulbs to develop enough glucose to thrive, but somewhere between 12 and 14 weeks seems to do the trick.
Anything less than 12 weeks is probably too short.
Tulips require this period of cold weather because they evolved in regions of central and southwest Asia that experience extended cold winters.
Tricking the Bulbs
If you live somewhere where you can’t count on the soil temperature to drop and stay below 55°F for at least 12 weeks, you can place the bulbs somewhere cool enough to trigger the process artificially.
A refrigerator is the perfect spot.
You need to start this process about 12 weeks before the midpoint of winter.
Lots of people make the mistake of starting just as spring begins, but that would mean you’ll be putting the bulbs outside when the weather is still too warm.
This will cause premature sprouting and could kill the beginnings of the flowers developing inside.
Don’t start chilling until after December 1st at the earliest.
And don’t just toss a bunch of tulip bulbs into a bag and stuff it in the back of the fridge. This is a recipe for rot. Instead, use an old cardboard egg carton and place one bulb in each section. You could also use a mesh or paper bag to facilitate proper airflow.
Keep the bulbs far away from veggies and fruit. Types of produce like apples put out a lot of ethylene, and this gas can trigger premature growth.
After at least 12 weeks have passed, remove the bulbs from the fridge and inspect them for any soft spots or signs of rot. Plant the healthy ones in the ground at about six inches deep.
The ground might be frozen in your area at this time, and that’s okay. You’ll just have to break out the chisel or put your back into it with a shovel. Holes can be pre-dug earlier in the year as well.
You don’t want the bulbs to warm back up until they normally would in the spring, so don’t remove them from the fridge, get distracted, and leave them on your counter for a few days. Planting should be done right away.
How to Grow
Once planted in the ground, you can generally forget about them until the leaves start to emerge in the spring.
There is one exception to this: If you have an extended warm period with temperatures above 55°F for several weeks on the horizon, you’ll need to dig the tulip bulbs back up, put them in some potting soil in pots, and stick them back in the fridge.
The plant needs cool weather while they’re in the soil in late winter and early spring to develop strong roots. If it gets too warm, they won’t be able to develop, or they will be weak.
That said, there is a way to get around digging up the bulbs during a warm stretch.
If the daytime high temperature is hovering right around 60°F and not warmer, you can usually get away with covering the soil with a few inches of mulch rather than moving them to pots in the fridge.
If it’s dry in your neck of the woods during the winter, make sure to keep the soil moist but not wet.
The bad news about this method is that you’ll have to dig up the tulip bulbs every year and repeat the process, or just expect them to grow as annuals that must be replaced.
If you want to dig the bulbs up and regrow them, you’ll need to wait for the flowers and leaves to fade. Then, dig the bulbs up and store them in a cool, dark place in a refrigerator or cold cellar.
Then, give them another 12 weeks in the fridge starting at the appropriate time in late fall.
Even if you go through all this work, there’s no guarantee that your plants will bloom the second year. Artificially cooled bulbs just sometimes don’t work.
By the way, if you want to skip the digging up and replanting process, you can keep the bulbs in the pot that you chill them in.
Move the pot outdoors when you would typically plant and bring them back in after the leaves fade. They can regrow this way for years.
Pre-Chilled Tulip Bulbs
You can also purchase bulbs that have been chilled for you. These are an excellent option if you missed the cooling period, but you still want to be able to enjoy tulips in your warm-climate garden.
These must be planted immediately after you receive them. As with those that you chill yourself, you can’t allow them to warm up before planting.
Best Hybrids and Species to Select
Want to skip a few steps? There are actually a few tulips that manage just fine in Zone 8, or even 9.
‘Little Beauty’ is a hybrid that will bloom even if you don’t chill it. Tulipa clusiana, or lady tulip, cultivars also do well without a chill.
The following options do require a chill, but they do extremely well when grown this way and might even give you a second year of flowers even if you don’t dig them up and chill them again in advance of the next year.
‘Makeup’ has pure white petals edged in red. ‘Hocus Pocus’ has magical yellow blossoms with pink tips.
‘Queen of the Night’ has nearly black, purplish petals atop 22-inch stems. This option is available at Eden Brothers in quantities of 10, 20, 50, and 100.
Striking ‘Apeldoorn’ features pinkish-red petals edged in apricot.
‘Pink Impression’ is, unsurprisingly, pink, and ‘White Triumphator’ is white. For lemon yellow flowers edged in red, grab ‘Akebono.’
Most Darwin hybrids are adaptable to warmer climates, too.
Or have someone else do the work for you and grab ‘Pink Passion’ pre-chilled bulbs in a pretty pink hue at Walmart.
Some Don’t Like It Hot
Like all plants, tulips evolved to thrive in certain climate conditions, and they simply won’t be happy in anything else.
But if you can trick them into thinking they’re in the type of environment they prefer, you can enjoy these classic flowers even outside of their normal temperature range.
Now that you have the keys to warm weather Tulipa growing, what types will you feature in your garden? What area do you live in?
Share the details in the comments to give your fellow gardeners some ideas that might also work for them.
Hi! I’m from South Louisiana. I’m curious if you can use pines for a living trellis? How acidic is the soil underneath after being mulched with its own pine needles for years? Of course our soil is sandy and acidic anyway… I’m trying to think of ways the large pines all over my yard could be useful.
There is some debate over whether pines make soil acid, or whether they thrive in places where the soil is already acid.
My bet is it’s a combination of both. Pineland soil is an unfriendly home for most garden crops. I’ve never seen yams mixed in with pines, though I have seen smilax vines and wild muscadines.
That said, my friend Rick grew a potted yam up the side of a pine tree in North/Central Florida:
And 11 years ago, Marabou Thomas posted a video of even larger yams growing up pine trees:
But they weren’t in the native soil, they were in pots. That’s an easy way to get good yams in bad soil, though: just put some yams in big pots or grow bags and send them up the sides of pine trees.
You might also have luck with digging a hole and filling it with compost, then planting a yam bulbil or piece of root in it.
Pines are, obviously, also useful for lumber: a friend with a saw mill cut the planks we used to build one of our big bookshelves.
Pineland soils also support edible and useful species including:
Sparkleberry Deerberry Saw palmetto Wild and cultivated blueberries of all sorts Blackberry Gallberry Yaupon holly Maypop Native pawpaws Nopale cactus Persimmon Mayhaw
…and some others I’ve forgotten.
If life gives you pines, work around them. You can also add lots of pulverized limestone to areas you clear and improve the soil enough to grow pasture for grazing animals. I’ve seen some really nice pasture carved out of an area of terrible acid pineland soil via liming and grazing.
Pines may make decent trellises for cultivated muscadine grapes and other vines that don’t mind the soil. It’s certainly worth a try.
Have water, will thrive. We must do our part in limiting our water usage when it comes to our backyard plantings. Try these seven ways to reduce water usage through a diverse effort of water catchment systems and clever planting.
In our current environmental crisis, we’re all trying to do a little bit more. From encouraging biodiversity to helping support local wildlife, these are all small switches that hold the power to create big change.
Reducing your city water usage is another step to practicing sustainable, regenerative gardening.
For over 25 years, I’ve lived in Vancouver, British Columbia, known for its gray skies and relentless rainy days. During this time, I’ve witnessed a drastic change in water preserves, with caches not large enough to fulfill the city’s needs through the summer months.
Coupled with the raging wildfires that plague each summer season, doing our part to limit city water usage is more crucial than ever.
Today, I’m sharing 7 ways to reduce water usage with storage hacks that work for any yard or garden of any size.
Hand watering is more mindful than most irrigation systems.
Principles of Efficient Water Use
Before we get started, I thought it might be useful to review the basics of what we’re trying to achieve. I outline these ideas in my book, The Regenerative Garden, as the foundation for efficient water use.
Step 1: Capture and store rainwater for garden irrigation.
Step 2: Recycle this water as many times as possible.
Step 3: Know your local water budget and stay within it. Never use more than your rainfall.
Even places with known rainfall should collect and store rainfall for future use.
7 Ways to Reduce Your City Water Usage
To reduce your city water usage, you’ll need to diversify your efforts. A combination of catching, storing, recycling, and smart planting can help you reduce your city water usage in a major way.
These are a few strategies to get you started.
1. Get Rid of Thirsty Lawns
Lawns use a truly outrageous amount of water. While they have become the norm in most communities, there are plenty of lawn alternatives that use far less water.
If you don’t need your lawn, replace it with a low-maintenance ground covers like micro clover or a native, drought-tolerant grass species. Many seed companies have an eco-lawn alternative that you can try out.
I’m in the midst of revamping the lawn at my new house with a new alternative lawn mix. Check it out below.
2. Plant Native and Drought-Tolerant Plants
Xeriscape principles, or conserving water through landscaping, go beyond the lawn.
The plants you choose to include in your garden can majorly affect your city water usage.
Choose plants that are native to your area, as they can survive on natural rainfall with little to no supplemental watering. Choosing drought-tolerant plants will also help you through the summer months when rainfall lessens.
Sedum and lavender are both great drought-tolerant plants.
3. Capture and Store Rainwater
One of the basic principles of sustainable water use is capturing and storing rainfall for the drier months.
Rain barrels with overflow pipes directly to your garden are an efficient way to capture rainfall. Barrels can be made from plastic, metal, or wood drums—all food-safe materials.
An average rain barrel can hold 50 gallons of rainwater, enough to water 80 square feet of garden.
You can set up drip irrigation directly from your rain barrel for easy watering with low consumption.
4. Redirect Drain spouts
Have plants that love extra water? You can redirect your drain spouts to feed directly into your garden, giving your plants the extra water they crave without digging into the city’s water supply.
Do note that not all roof runoff is recommended for our gardens, depending on the material of the roof. Roofs made from non-porous metal are ideal, while untreated wood shingle roofs are also acceptable.
Avoid roof runoff from asphalt, rubber, and galvanized zinc roofs.
Solid, non-porous roofs work best for water collection.
5. Build a Rain Garden
Designing a rain garden sounds complicated, but it’s surprisingly low-maintenance and simple in concept. These gardens are designed to filter and release stormwater runoff, keeping water to the soil and creeks.
Rain gardens use moisture-loving plants that act as biofilters to purify the water, along with drought-tolerant plants with deep roots.
These gardens range from simplistic to elaborate, redirecting natural water sources through drain spouts, gravel troughs, and an overflow area packed with rocks.
6. Use an Olla Water Catchment System
Self-watering planters are an efficient way to save on city water usage while also saving you time.
Ollas are one of my favourite self-watering systems; they’ve been used for thousands of years to provide slow irrigation and deep root watering.
This ancient watering practice teaches plants to reach down and find this water source, limiting the need for supplemental watering.
You can even attach your ollas to a rain barrel, drawing water when needed.
You can set up a rainwater catchment or greywater recycling system directly toward the ollas.
7. Build a Wicking Bed
Want to take self-watering to the next level? A wicking bed is essentially a giant self-watering container. It may resemble a classic raised bed, but there’s much more below the surface.
These beds have a water reservoir under the soil, dramatically reducing the need for supplemental watering.
The reservoir is made with an impermeable barrier to hold water, gravel to store the water, and drainage pipes for water flow; it can be filled manually, by rainfall, or through overflow spouts.
Through the hottest summer months, your wicking bed will only need a weekly top-up, with less manual care through the rest of the year.
Use recycled materials to build your wicking bed.
FAQ About Reducing City Water Usage
Have more questions about reducing your city water usage? These are the questions I get the most. If I don’t answer your question here, please leave it for me in the comments below.
How can I reduce my city water usage in a small yard?
It’s easy to have grand plans for water conservation when you have acres of space to work with. But when you’re dealing with a small city yard, you may feel more limited.
The good news is that all of these water-reduction strategies are designed to work in any space, with scale options for any yard.
A single rain barrel with redirected drain spouts is small-space-friendly, and can make a major difference in your water usage.
Planting lawn alternatives and native or drought-tolerant plants is another useful solution, possible in any size garden.
What are the best drought-tolerant plants for my garden?
I recommend choosing plants that are native to your area; they use the least amount of water because they are equipped to survive in your specific region.
With this said, there are plenty of drought-tolerant plants that would make good additions to your garden. Some of my favourites include agave, aster, columbine, delphinium, echinacea, lavender, phlox, sedum, statice, sunflower, yarrow, and zinnias. Find the full list in this post.
You promised yourself you’d do better this year and start your seeds on time. You have the supplies, the seeds, a good location with a lot of light (or a grow light). You’ve checked the back of the seed packet and it’s the proper time to start. While there are many things that require attention when seed starting, one that can’t be overlooked is a disease called damping off.
Damping off is a disease caused by fungi and molds and is a common problem for beginners, but even experienced gardeners have had to deal with it. Damping off attacks seed and seedlings, impeding germination, and if they do germinate, causing them to collapse and die. The disease thrives in cool and damp conditions.
Where does damping off come from?
The fungus can come from contaminated soil or plant debris. Do not reuse last year’s soil for seed starting. Do not use garden soil either. Both can harbor the pathogens. The infection can also be carried by insects such as fungus gnats or via a breeze. (See Fungus Gnats: How I Got Rid of Them Permanently (and Organically.) Contaminated tools, pots, hose ends that have laid on the floor, and even your dirty hands and gardening gloves, can spread damping off.
What does damping off look like?
Above: Coffee seedlings with damping off in Kona, Hawaii. Photograph by Scott Nelson via Flickr.
Damping off generally affects young seedlings that don’t yet have their true leaves, but it can also cause germination failure. So if your seeds are packaged for use in the current year, and you’ve met all of their needs, yet they don’t germinate, you can suspect damping off. Seedlings that succumb to damping off can look wilted or shriveled; mushy or soaked; mottled with brown or gray spots; or marked by fuzzy white growth. It can quickly spread through the entire tray.
How can you prevent damping off?
Above: Erin Benzakein of Floret rests her cell flats on trays filled with water, as watering from below is preferable to watering from above when it comes to seeds. Photograph by Chris Benzakein, courtesy of Floret, from Your First Garden: What You Need to Know Before You Grow Plants from Seeds.
Start by cleaning and sterilizing your tools, pots, and gloves. For tools and pots, sterilize using a 10 percent bleach solution for 30 minutes. Store them in a clean location when not in use. For gloves, depending on the material, a hot wash and dry should do it.
Use sterilized potting soil and seal the package if you don’t use it all in one go.
Start seeds inside where it’s warm and dry. The air and soil temp should be in the 65°F to 70°F range. Colder temps promote fungal growth.
Don’t overwater: While the seedlings need water to grow, too much is a bad thing. Only water from below and use room temperature water. Anything colder can slow down plant growth and open the seedling to infection. Make sure your seed trays have good drainage.
What do you do if your seedlings appear to have damping off?
Isolate the tray and watch for symptoms in the others. If it turns out that damping off is present, dispose of the soil, sterilize everything, and start over. It happens to the best of us!
Joseph in northern Indiana here… where a string of warm days has pushed my garden over into the earliest flowers of spring, despite the early date.
I picked this hellebore (Helleborus hybrid, Zone 4 – 8) from a local nursery with no tag, so I didn’t know what to expect. It was just a small plant, and I honestly wasn’t sure it would flower this year, but here it is! A nice double pink, and the flowers don’t hang down quite as much as most varieties I’ve grown. I’m happy!
When I moved into this house two and a half years ago, the backyard was choked with invasive weeds like Lonicera maackii. One of the rewards for clearing that out was discovering clumps of common snowdrops (Galanthusnivalis, Zone 3 – 8).
In the front garden I’ve planted lots of giant snowdrop (Galanthuselwesii, Zone 4 – 8). You can see how it gets the name, compared to the flowers of the common snowdrop in the backyard. The giant is a bit earlier blooming too. But I love both of them!
I planted a bunch of crocuses (Crocusminimus ‘Spring Beauty’, Zone4 – 8 ) last fall… the squirrels ate most of them, but a few survived and are blooming.
Reticulata irises (Irisreticulata and related species and hybrids, Zone 5 – 9) are favorite early bloomers for me. They don’t persist well in heavy clay soils, but this garden is very sandy so they seem happy. This one was part of a mix of different varieties, so I’m not sure of the cultivar name, but it sure is pretty!
I always forget just how early Pulmonaria (Zone 3 – 8) are. I always think of bulbs as early bloomers, but this little perennial starts so soon, with plenty of more blooms to come.
And maybe my favorite early bloomer of all… snow trillium (Trilliumnivale, Zone 3 – 8). It isn’t QUITE open yet, but will be soon! I love this little plant because it is so early, AND it is native, a key food source for native pollinators coming out of their winter hibernation.
Any signs of spring in your garden? Send in photos! We’d love to see them here on the GPOD!
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Growing broccoli in your home garden is a wonderful way to enjoy this fresh, cool-weather vegetable.
But to have the best possible success, first you must learn about the ins and outs of broccoli plant care.
This comprehensive guide on how to grow broccoli is perfect for gardeners of any skill level. You’ll learn about timing, location, sun, water, soil, pest control, and so much more.
Keep soil evenly moist. Never allow it to dry completely
Humidity:
Average
Fertilizer:
Balanced vegetable fertilizer, spring or fall
Soil:
Fast-draining, fertile soil
Common pests:
Caterpillars, aphids, stink bugs, whiteflies
Information About Broccoli
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea) is a cole crop and a member of the Brassicaceae, or mustard, family of vegetables. It’s related to other favorites like cabbage, brussels sprouts, kale, kohlrabi, and cauliflower.
It’s technically a biennial, but most people grow it as an annual. It can keep producing almost year-round, depending on your climate. Eventually it will bloom, set seed, and then die.
The heads, or crowns, are made up of tightly packed clusters of unopened flower buds. They’re typically dark green, but can have hues of blue. There are even heirloom varieties that produce a purple crown.
All parts of the plant are edible, and the main head can range in size from 3-6” depending on the environment, variety, and quality of care.
Different Types
Different broccoli varieties feature varying heat tolerance levels, cold resistance, growth rates, color, and size. All of them require the same care. Here are a few of the most popular options:
Calabrese – This is the type you’re most familiar with from the grocery store. It’s an heirloom variety that grows well in the fall, and has large heads with plentiful side shoots.
Early Purple– This fast-growing, cold-tolerant purple heirloom variety is excellent for spring and fall planting, and produces many side shoots after the main harvest.
Green Goliath – This variety produces large 8-12” green heads, abundant side shoots, and is both heat and cold-tolerant.
Waltham 29– This reliable heirloom is drought-tolerant and produces a medium-sized blue-green crown with many side shoots.
How Does Broccoli Grow?
Broccoli grows from the main central stem. Only one large crown will form at the top of each plant.
But most plants will also produce several smaller heads, or side shoots, after you harvest the central one. So you can continue enjoying it all season long.
Mature broccoli ready to harvest
How To Grow Broccoli
Before we get into the specific care instructions, let’s chat about when and where to grow broccoli. Timing and location are keys to success.
Where To Grow Broccoli
You can grow your broccoli in the ground, containers, or raised beds. Pots should be at least 5 gallons with an 18” diameter and drainage holes in the bottom.
In your garden, choose a spot that gets full sun, where the soil is well-draining and fertile.
When To Plant
Broccoli grows best in cooler weather. Plant it as soon as the ground is workable in early spring, or when the ground is at least 40°F (4.4°C), which you can check with a soil thermometer.
Aim for 2-3 weeks before the last frost date for direct sowing, or 6-8 weeks before to start them indoors.
If you live somewhere warm, plant them in the late summer or early fall. The goal is for the crowns to start developing when the temperatures have begun to cool down for autumn.
Now that you know when and where to grow it, let’s talk about how to care for broccoli plants. These tips will help you create an environment where they can thrive.
Sunlight
Broccoli likes a full sun location where it will get 6-8 hours of direct exposure daily. Too little can cause leggy, thin growth and small crowns.
Excess sun, especially during hot weather, causes them to bolt or flower. If you’re expecting a heat wave, use a shade cloth to provide afternoon protection when the sun is most intense.
Water
Keep your plants evenly moist by ensuring they get 1-1 ½ inches of water every week. Without enough, you’ll end up with small, bitter broccoli. Use a moisture gauge to measure how much they’re getting.
It’s also important to only irrigate at the base of the plant. If water sits on the developing crown for too long, it can cause rot.
Temperature
The ideal temperature range for growing broccoli is between 65-80°F (18.3-26.6°C).
Some varieties are more heat tolerant than others, but high temperatures will cause bolting, or flowering, making it bitter and mealy.
Cold won’t bother it until temperatures dip below 26°F (-3.3°C), and persistent freezing weather will eventually kill the plant.
Fertilizer
Broccoli is a heavy feeder and likes lots of nutrients, so you should apply a balanced all-purpose fertilizer throughout the growing season.
The best type of soil for growing broccoli is fertile, rich, and well-draining with a pH between 6.0-7.0.
Amend your garden bed with compost to improve drainage and boost nutrition, and add garden lime or acidic fertilizer to adjust the pH if needed. You can test it with a pH probe.
The main pests for broccoli plants are 3 types of caterpillars: cabbage worms, diamondback moths, and cabbage loopers. But they can also be affected by aphids, stink bugs, and whiteflies.
Treat small bugs with an insecticidal soap, and hand-pick the larger ones. Floating row covers are a good way to protect young plants from insects, and prevent the moths from laying their eggs.
Disease Control Tips
Diseases like bacterial leaf spot, Verticillium wilt, clubroot, mildew, and white mold can be issues for broccoli. They cause discoloration, stunted growth, and can even kill the plant.
At the first sign of disease, apply an organic fungicide and trim away any infected foliage to stop it from spreading. Clubroot causes wilting and gnarled roots. If this happens to your plant, you must dig it up and destroy it.
Tips For Harvesting Broccoli
It’s essential to harvest your broccoli before the buds turn yellow or start opening. Because that means it’s starting to flower, or bolt, and it causes a bitter and mealy flavor.
When you have a densely packed head with tight clusters of buds, about 50-80 days after planting, it’s time to harvest.
Use a sharp knife or heavy-duty shears to make a diagonal cut through the main stem about 6” below the crown. The diagonal cut prevents water from pooling on the wound, which can cause rot.
Don’t pull the plant though, leave it in so you can continue harvesting the smaller side shoots until the plant begins to die.
Freshly picked broccoli from my garden
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Broccoli can be a fun vegetable to grow, but no plant is problem-free. Use this section to help get your plant back on track if you encounter one of these issues.
No Heads
Either damage, too much shade, or hot temperatures could cause a lack of crown development. Insects can sometimes eat the head, effectively stumping the main stem, which is called blindness. Row covers can help prevent this from happening.
Heat is also a problem, so it’s essential to plant it at the right time, and avoid extreme summer temperatures. Make sure your broccoli is growing in the full sun with 6-8 hours of exposure daily.
Small Heads
Issues like extreme temperatures, lack of nutrients, or too little light can lead to small crowns. Anything outside the ideal range of 65-80°F (18.3-26.6°C) can stall or stunt heads.
Keep them in full sun, and fertilize with a general-purpose liquid every 2 weeks, or add granules once per month to keep the nutrient levels high.
Yellow Leaves
Disease, pests, and overwatering are common reasons for yellow broccoli leaves. Irrigate at the base to prevent water and soil from splashing on the foliage. Keep the soil moist without making it muddy and soggy.
The number one cause of holes in broccoli leaves is caterpillars. Use a natural insecticidal soap, or hand-pick larger bugs and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Bolting
Bolting is another term for flowering. Broccoli will bolt when the temperatures remain above 80°F (26.6°C), or if you leave the mature crown on the stem for too long.
Combat high heat by using shade covers in the afternoon, and planting your broccoli as early as possible. Harvest the heads as soon as they’re fully mature, or at the first sign of yellow, to stop it from going to flower.
Head of broccoli starting to bolt
FAQs
Is broccoli difficult to grow?
Many people find broccoli difficult to grow because of the timing. It does best during cool weather so the head can develop without high heat, which causes it to bolt. It can be easy to grow with correct timing, good soil, proper watering and sunlight, and plenty of fertilizer.
Is there a trick to growing broccoli?
The trick to growing broccoli is knowing when to plant it. Aim for early spring as soon as the ground has thawed, or in the fall when the weather is cool enough so the head can develop without bolting.
Will broccoli plants come back every year?
Broccoli is a biennial plant that only lives for about 2 years. It produces one central crown, and usually several edible side shoots, until either freezing temps kill it, or high heat causes it to flower and set seeds.
How long does it take to grow broccoli?
Broccoli can be ready to harvest between 50-80 days after planting, depending on the variety, the environment, and the care you give it as it grows.
If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!
What would you create if you could cross an oak and a willow? The willow oak!
Not truly a hybrid of the two, it’s an oak through and through, complete with acorns. But you might mistake the narrow leaves for those of a willow.
Willow oak is a favorite of wildlife, making all kinds of birds, as well as squirrels and other herbivores, extremely happy.
Watching the chipmunks and squirrels collect the nuts for storage has to be one of my favorite things to do in the fall.
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This isn’t your mother’s oak, though. Well, unless your mother grew one of these.
There are many cultivars that have an upright, narrow growth habit that makes them perfect for parking strips and lots, and planting closer to homes than you might be able to put a tree otherwise.
They’re easy to grow and more resistant to problems than some other species in the Quercus genus, as well.
Let’s talk all things willow oak. Here’s the lineup of what we’ll discuss in this guide:
If you’d like a rundown of all the pros and cons of willow oaks, please visit our guide (coming soon!).
Ready to get growing? Let’s dive in.
Cultivation and History
The willow oak also goes by the names pin, peach, and swamp chestnut oak.
“Quercus” is the Latin word for oak and “phellos” is Latin for cork, a reference to the texture of the bark of older specimens.
But don’t confuse it with Q. suber, which has the common name “cork oak.” The latter is native to Europe and is used to produce the cork you know and love for making boards and sealing wine bottles.
Willow oaks are, as you probably guessed, part of the oak family.
This species is in the red oak group and grows indigenously across the southeastern US and up the eastern seaboard as far north as New Jersey and as far south as northern Florida, and to the west across Texas and Oklahoma.
Willow oaks are an important source of food for wildlife. They grow best in moist locations like low-lying areas, near streams or irrigation ditches, or on the edges of swamps or lakes.
When mature, they can reach over 100 feet tall and half as wide, but most stay about half that size. Larger specimens are rare but not impossible – one in Tennessee measured 123 feet tall and 100 feet wide!
This species does best below about 1,500 feet in altitude.
The leaves are smooth, narrow, alternate, and green, with a single bristle at the tip. That little bristle is how you can easily determine that it’s a part of the red oak group.
The leaves typically grow about four to five inches long and an inch wide. Light green in the spring, they change to medium green in the summer.
During the spring, as the leaves are emerging, long greenish-yellow, wind-pollinated catkins form. These plants are monoecious, meaning they have both female and male parts on each tree.
In the fall, the leaves turn golden yellow or brownish-yellow. Unlike those of pin oaks, they don’t persist on the tree until spring, but rapidly drop all at once in the fall, making cleanup easier.
The acorns, which take two years to mature, are some of the smallest in the genus and most fail to grow even to half an inch in length.
Despite their diminutive size, the willow oak is a vigorous producer, which means there are mature acorns available every year, with some on each tree maturing in alternate years for a perpetual annual harvest.
Young specimens have gray bark, which turns dark gray-brown with age and develops deep furrows.
The young seedlings can grow rapidly, up to five feet in two years. From there, this species has a moderate growth rate, slowing down to about a foot per year.
Willow Oak Propagation
Whether you buy a young plant at a nursery or you want to plant an acorn you found, there are several ways to add this plant to your world.
From Seed
Because willow oaks readily hybridize in the wild so propagating seed is unreliable, we don’t recommend this method. But we’ll provide you with the outline of what’s required in case it’s something you’re interested in.
The seeds should be cold stratified at 33 to 40°F for three months before you plant. The easiest way of doing this is to put them in moistened sphagnum moss in the refrigerator. Remove the caps from the acorns first, if they’re still attached.
In the spring, when the days are consistently above freezing, prepare a seedbed with lots of well-rotted compost and plant each acorn.
Sink each seed about two inches deep and place three or four in each area to ensure at least one germinates.
The seeds can be planted about two feet apart if you plan to transplant some of the seedlings, or at least 20 feet apart if you intend to leave them in place.
Cover the area with an inch or so of leaf litter. Keep the soil moist but not wet. If multiple seeds germinate in one spot, pull the smaller seedlings.
From Cuttings
True willow (Salix spp.) cuttings are exceptionally easy to root. Oak willow isn’t quite so easy. Consider it a five on a scale of one to 10.
Before you start cutting, work in some well-rotted compost in the area where you want to plant your new willow oak.
Create a hole in the soil a few inches deep using a pencil or chopstick. Create another hole or two a few inches away.
Look for flexible, pencil-sized branches in the spring. Cut a six- to nine-inch-long piece at a 45-degree angle, right below a leaf node, and remove all but one or two leaves at tip.
Take several cuttings for each tree you want to grow.
Place a cutting in the hole you made and firm the soil up around it. Proceed with several more nearby. You want to place about three cuttings in each spot, assuming that one will succeed.
Water the soil well and firm it up again if it loosens and causes the cutting to sink or tip.
Keep the soil moist as the cutting develops. There’s no need to do anything but keep the soil moist until you start to see new growth develop.
If multiple cuttings in the same area start growing new leaves, gently pull all but the strongest one, taking care not to disturb the roots of the remaining cutting.
Heap lots of straw or leaf mulch around the cutting to protect it during the winter and remove the protective layer in the spring when new growth starts.
Beginning the next year, you can treat the plant as you would any other sapling.
Transplanting
The best time to transplant is in the late fall, winter, or early spring, when the willow oaks are dormant. Willow oaks have a fibrous root system that lends itself well to transplanting.
First, prepare the area by working in lots of well-rotted compost and digging a hole twice as wide and the same depth as the container your plant came in.
Gently remove the youngster from the container and loosen up the roots. Lower it down into the hole and fill in around it with a compost and soil mixture.
Water well and fill in with more soil if it settles.
You want the plant to be sitting at the same level that it was in the growing medium, with just the root flare where the root ball begins above the soil.
Keep the soil moist to support the tree as it becomes established.
How to Grow Willow Oaks
This is a fairly fast-growing tree, but not so fast that the wood is weak and readily falls apart in the slightest breeze.
If you plant yours in fertile, moist soil, it will grow much larger and faster than it would otherwise, but it can still be a robust, large specimen in less-than-ideal conditions.
Moisture lovers, saplings will survive up to three months of saturated soil, so if you live somewhere with soggy winters, they will survive where other plants may fail.
Mature willow oaks can even tolerate up to three years of soggy, wet roots.
On the other end of the spectrum, willow oaks will thrive in areas with occasional drought-like conditions once established.
Note that adequate moisture is particularly important for young plants, but overwatering can slow growth.
Aim to keep the soil moist around young plants and then only irrigate established plants during periods of drought.
Q. phellos requires acidic soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5 and full sun. It can tolerate clay soil, making it a good option if you have heavy earth. It’s also tolerant of pollution.
At about 15 to 20 years after planting, the tree will be mature enough to produce acorns, which is much younger than most oaks.
It’s possible for a late freeze to defoliate the willow oak and kill any flowers.
The tree will recover and grow a second set of leaves, but it won’t develop a second round of catkins. That means no batch of acorns.
There’s no need to feed your willow oak unless a soil test reveals a deficiency. You do an annual soil test, right?
Growing Tips
Plant in full sun.
Keep the soil moist for trees under five years old.
Water during times of drought for older specimens.
Fertilize only if your soil has a deficiency.
Pruning and Maintenance
It’s important to prune young willow oaks to encourage a healthy, sturdy central leader.
That means you want a single, main trunk that goes all the way up the center of the tree, rather than several trunks as the canopy expands.
When you first plant your willow oak, trim off any competing trunks so you have one strong, main trunk. Cut the competing trunks off at the base using a pair of pruners or a saw.
From there, it’s a matter of maintenance. When the tree is young, you can remove any crossing or rubbing branches to create shape and open the canopy.
As it gets older, it will probably be too large for you to do this, but feel free to break out a tree saw if you see a problem or consult a professional arborist.
Otherwise, remove any broken, diseased, damaged, or dead branches as you see them.
Willow Oak Cultivars and Hybrids to Select
Depending on where you live, you might only be able to find the species. But there’s nothing wrong with that – the species is incredible!
If you want one of the standard willow oaks, visit Fast Growing Trees for a four- to five-, five- to six-, or six- to seven-foot live specimen.
If you’re interested in some of the cultivars that have been developed in recent years, here are some excellent options:
High Tower
Q. phellos ‘Qpsta’ can stretch up to 65 feet tall and 45 wide. The foliage is darker green than the species.
It has gained a reputation as the ideal landscaping tree near roadways and buildings because it develops a strong central leader naturally, and the branches grow up rather than out, leaving roads and walkways clear for traffic.
The leaves turn bright yellow in the fall. The only downside is that it’s slightly less hardy than the species, suitable for Zones 6 to 9.
Kingpin
‘Greenenvy,’ also known as Kingpin®, was bred by grower Sam Rogers at Bold Spring Nursery in Hawkinsville, Georgia.
Its foliage is dramatically darker than the species and the growth is more upright, with a prominent central leader.
Pillow
‘Pillow’ or pink-willow oak (Q. x schociana) is a hybrid cross between Q. palustris and Q. phellos.
It was found in a German nursery where it was cultivated by Hofgartner Schoch and named by botanist George Dieck in 1887, in honor of its breeder.
It grows to about 50 feet tall with a round crown and much showier, bright red fall foliage than the willow species. New leaves in spring emerge with a hint of pink.
Upperton
Fast-growing, with a strong central leader and an upright growth habit, Upperton® (Q. phellos ‘RT3’) is perfect for parking lots, spaces next to buildings, and areas along roadways.
It was cultivated by Georgia grower Ray Tate after he took a cutting of a promising specimen with prolific, uniform branching that was located in a parking lot island.
When mature it grows 60 feet tall and 40 feet wide and is hardy in Zones 6 to 9.
Wynstar
‘Wynstar’ or ‘QPMTF’ has rusty orange leaves in the fall, making the mature 80-foot tree a dramatic focal point.
It has a more uniform and upright growth habit than the species.
Managing Pests and Disease
Deer will feed on young plants, but once the willow oaks grow large enough, these critters will ignore them.
Willow oaks are extremely susceptible to acid rain with a pH below 3.2. If you have young trees, protect them during storms and soak the soil afterwards to flush it.
Hogs are extremely fond of the fallen acorns, but they won’t generally bother a mature specimen.
Insects
In general, pests won’t dramatically injure a mature tree. They’re more of a nuisance that can cause unsightliness. But young trees can sometimes be killed.
Fortunately, pests are rare on willow oaks. Just in case you happen to encounter an issue, here are the ones to watch for:
Borers
Borers are usually only troublesome on stressed, young, or sickly trees.
Red oak borers (Enaphalodes rufulus), living beech borers (Goes pulverulentus), and carpenterworm borers (Prionoxystus robiniae) might infest Q. phellos, as well as some other species, depending on where you live. They’re common in eastern North America.
Most species lay eggs in the bark of trees in the fall where they overwinter, emerging as larvae in the spring.
Once they mature the adult beetles chew their way out of the trunk, leaving behind noticeable holes, and the life cycle continues.
The holes are smaller than those left behind by woodpeckers. Speaking of, woodpeckers are the best control of borers, so thank them if you see any around!
Most of the time an infestation is no big deal, and you can just let nature take its course. But on young or already sick trees, there probably isn’t much you can do but remove the specimen.
Chemical treatments aren’t really effective since the insects hide inside the tree for the majority of their life cycle. The best you can do is support your tree with appropriate watering, pruning, and feeding, if needed.
Leafhoppers
Oak leafhoppers (Platycotis vittata) come in many different color combinations but all have a “horn” protruding out the front.
If you view them from head on, they have a triangular appearance.
These insects have sucking mouthparts that they inject into the tree to suck out the sap.
Although they’re funky and maybe a little frightening to look at, they won’t seriously damage your tree, so don’t worry about treating them.
They can spread diseases but none that threaten willow oaks.
Oak Skeletonizers
Bucculatrix ainsliella, the oak skeletonizer, gets its name because the larvae of these moths feed on the underside of the leaves.
They leave behind just the veins and these transparent little “windows” of the leaf remain, like a skeleton. These leaves eventually dry up and drop.
On an established willow oak, you don’t need to do anything. But if more than half of the tree is defoliated, or if the tree is young or stressed already, you will need to treat it.
Pick up a spray that contains this beneficial bacteria, like Bonide’s Thuricide.
It’s available at Arbico Organics in quart- and gallon-sized ready-to-spray options, or eight- and 16-ounce concentrate.
Spray the tree in late spring and again in late summer, in case there are two generations.
Disease
Oak trees can be susceptible to diseases, but willow oaks less so. They aren’t magic, though.
They can still contract diseases, but the infection probably won’t kill your tree.
Anthracnose
Anthracnose is a common disease in oaks, though it’s a bit less common in this species. It’s caused by the fungus Apiognomonia errabunda, which thrives in moist conditions.
At first, it causes small, water-soaked lesions that appear on the leaf margins or next to the leaf veins. These lesions gradually become gray and papery.
As new leaves emerge, they will be distorted or may drop off the branch before they can mature. You’ll usually see symptoms on the lower branches first.
Treatment is challenging. Since willow oaks are only mildly affected, you should avoid chemical treatments and opt for supporting your plant instead so it thrives despite the infection.
The spores can spread far and wide, which means even if you do get rid of anthracnose on your willow oak, it can come right back if a neighbor’s tree is infected.
The pathogens can also lie dormant inside a tree until favorable conditions return.
Keep your tree healthy with appropriate irrigation and remove all fallen material from around the tree to limit available options for the fungus to overwinter on.
Trim off any heavily symptomatic branches. Prune the canopy of the tree to open it up, which will let in more light with a buildup of less moisture, and thus create fewer places for the fungus to thrive on the lower part of the tree.
Canker
Caused by the fungus Polyporus hispidus, rapidly forming cankers develop that can grow up to six inches annually.
The same fungus can also produce large mushrooms attached to the trunk, and these are sometimes used medicinally. But when they cause cankers, they can kill a tree.
The fungus tends to infect heartwood, causing it to rot and turn black. It can also cause rot in the cambium or sapwood. Growth above the canker dies.
Chemicals are not effective in treating this disease. Cut off symptomatic branches and monitor the tree for additional symptoms. Trees with cankers on a majority of the branches should be culled.
Chestnut Blight
I know, with a name like chestnut blight, you’d think that this would only be a problem for chestnut trees. Nope. It can infect willow oaks, too.
It’s caused by the fungus Cryphonectria parasitica, the same pathogen that killed almost all of the native chestnut trees across North America in just 50 years.
That’s four billion trees lost in just a few decades.
Oaks are a host of the pathogen, but it won’t kill them. It will, however, cause the bark to turn orange and sunken cankers to form.
Spread by wind and rain, it’s hard to control, obviously, since it decimated so many trees. But Dr. Wayne Weidlich, a botanist at Michigan State University, noticed in the late ‘70s that the roots of some chestnut trees were exposed by the construction of a logging road.
These roots had cankers, which doesn’t usually happen; cankers develop on the above-ground parts. This led Weidlich to hypothesize that the soil itself prevents the cankers from developing.
So, along with MSU researchers and Dr. William MacDonald from West Virginia University, he experimented with using the soil to cure cankers, and it worked.
If you see cankers on your tree, grab some native soil that hasn’t been treated with pesticides or herbicides and put it in a bucket. Add some water to make a muddy slop.
Place this mud on a piece of plastic, like a garbage bag that has been cut open, and press the mud against the canker.
Tie the plastic in place with rope or tape. Leave it in place for a few months and add water if necessary to keep the mud wet. The mud needs to completely cover the entire canker.
After a few months, you can remove the plastic and the canker will have become sealed by the tree so it’s no longer an open wound.
Shoestring Rot
Shoestring rot, also known as Armillaria root rot, is a disease caused by Armillaria mellea fungi that infects the roots of trees, but it doesn’t stay there.
As it progresses, it moves into the cambium of the tree and kills that. Eventually, the entire tree fails.
As with many diseases that affect the roots, you won’t know anything is wrong until the symptoms start to appear above ground. In this case, it’s the leaves that tell the tale.
They will be pale and smaller than usual, and they will drop prematurely.
There is no effective treatment. If your specimen is confirmed to have this disease, you can support it with proper watering and care, but it’s usually best to just remove it.
It’s not such a good bet if you have horses, however. The trees contain tannins and gallotannins which can be toxic if consumed in large quantities.
On the other end of the spectrum, animals like squirrels, mice, and birds such as nuthatches, jays, woodpeckers, titmice, and turkeys rely on willow oaks for food.
The willow oak is also valued for its pulp. And it may be used to restore bottomlands and disturbed areas in its native regions.
If you opt to use the acorns, wait until they fall to the ground and check to see if a cap detaches easily. If it doesn’t, this means the acorn didn’t mature fully.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Deciduous shade tree
Foliage Color:
Green
Native to:
Eastern North America
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
5-9
Tolerance:
Freezing temperatures, some drought
Season:
Spring, summer, fall
Soil Type:
Slightly sandy to slightly clayey soil
Exposure:
Full sun
Soil pH:
4.5-5.5
Time to Maturity:
15-20 years
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
2 inches (seeds), roots just under soil (transplanting)
Borers, leafhoppers, oak skeletonizers; Anthracnose, canker, chestnut blight, shoestring rot
Species:
Phellos
You Will Love Willow Oaks
When I picture the perfect afternoon, it involves laying under a big old tree during the summer with a good book.
A willow oak definitely fits the bill as the idyllic shade tree. But it also works in places as varied as parking strips and wildlands in need of restoration. And when you plant one, the local wildlife will thank you.
How do you plan to grow yours? Share your big plans in the comments section below.
There’s lots more fun in the Quercus genus to be had. If this guide helped you feel confident growing this species, you might want to read these other oak tree guides next:
When we think of hot tub holidays, we often think of relaxation and luxury. Being able to unwind and pamper yourself feels like it should be an expensive extra, but that’s not always the case.
As extravagant as having a personal hot tub might seem, there are actually some savvy methods to get that bit of extra luxury without adding much to the cost. You may not have to worry about breaking the bank to get yourself a slice of relaxation.
From strategic booking to alternative accommodation, here’s our guide to how you can enjoy hot tub holidays in the UK without worrying about your wallet.
Consider off-peak times
As much as we all love going away on bank holidays and during the summer, that’s not always the best choice. When it comes to keeping costs down your best chance is to look at times away from the peak popularity.
Booking your holiday for dates that avoid school holidays is an easy way to see the same accommodation options drop in price. You may have less competition when it comes to booking time off during off-peak dates as well.
Providers don’t want their accommodation sitting empty so if it’s an option, go for an off-peak time to get yourself a bargain.
Midweek getaways
Just like prices vary between peak and off-peak periods, the same is often true for the days of the week. Weekends will typically have higher accommodation costs associated with them, because that’s when most people will be aiming to book their holiday.
If you can plan for a midweek getaway instead this could work to your advantage. Not only will prices likely be lower, but you could also benefit from quieter surroundings than you’d get on the weekend. Places have a higher chance of not being crowded, so a midweek holiday could actually be even more relaxing than a weekend getaway.
Keep an eye out for last-minute deals
We all like to plan our holidays in advance. Sometimes, though, going for a last-minute deal can get a lot more for your money.
Just like providers don’t want empty accommodation during off-peak times, they would rather fill rooms for a lower price than let them go to waste. It’s a bit of a riskier strategy, as leaving things like booking train tickets until the last minute could see those prices go up instead.
Still, if you want a bargain hot tub holiday then it’s worth keeping your eyes open for any last-minute deals that might crop up.
Go for a self-catering option
As luxurious as the feel of staying in a hotel or spa is, that extra level of service adds to the price of your holiday. By sticking to self-catering options you can get the luxuriant feeling of a personal hot tub without having to pay quite as steep a price.
Whether it’s a rural cottage, countryside cabin, or a lakeside lodge, there are many excellent self-catering options to choose from around the country. Plus, preparing your own meals on holiday is another easy way to save on one of the main expenses.
Bring your own hot tub extras
It’s often the little extras that add onto the price of a holiday, so pack your own instead.
Bringing some scented candles and a comfy bathrobe of your own can help to enhance your hot tub experience without any additional charges. Just beware of bringing any bath salts or essential oils, as these can cause problems with the water in your hot tub.
Having a relaxing hot tub holiday doesn’t have to cost the earth. With some careful planning and a bit of flexibility, you can bag yourself an accommodation bargain. So, whether you’re looking for a countryside retreat or a coastal getaway, consider these tips when planning your next hot tub break.
This just in: We’re excited to announce the launch of Quick Takes, a brand-new subscriber-only Sunday column appearing on both Remodelista and Gardenista.
Above: Who will we be chatting with in Quick Takes? The shopkeeper/tastemaker/designer behind this considered kitchen, for one. Find out who this Sunday.
Each week, we’ll ask top designers, influencers, shopkeepers, and tastemakers for their insider dos and don’ts, faves and raves, from best house upgrades and design tricks to gardening advice and what’s on the bedside table. We kicked off the new series on Sunday: On Remodelista, trendsetter Kai Avent-deLeon shared her go-to sheets and best thing to bring to a party; and over on Gardenista, landscape designer Molly Sedlacek revealed the out-of-print gardening book she returns to time and again and the one plant that turns her off.
Above: Gardenista’s next Quick Takes respondent is building a communal homestead on 90 acres in upstate New York. Check the site this Sunday to learn who she is.
Quick Takes will be free and available to all through the month of March; after that, it’ll be reserved for paid subscribers—so if you like what you see this month, consider upgrading to a paid subscription to keep reading. (One subscription works for both sites.) Subscribers also have access to full-text newsletters, delivered daily, as well as an ad-free viewing experience. A paid subscription is $9.99, paid monthly, or $59.99 paid yearly (a 50 percent savings) and helps support our team and keep our sites going.
Whether you become a subscriber or not, we’re so grateful for your continued readership and support all these years. Thanks for following along.
N.B.: Have someone you’d like to see featured in Quick Takes? Let us know in the comments.
You’d think choosing plants was easy enough—just find the ones you like, right? And for single specimens in a pot or a monoculture of, say. roses or hydrangeas, it is as simple as that.
But what about designing a border where plants need to relate to each other in a well-thought-out design? And what if you have a large blank canvas to fill with a whole range of plants. This is when it can get a little more complicated. For the third post in my column on creating A Garden From Scratch, I tackle how to figure out the kind of plants you might want in your landscape. Before you get too excited, let me clarify that I’m not talking about choosing specific plants here; this is about the bigger, long-term picture of how to put plants together in a space and why.
(To read my earlier stories in the Garden from Scratch series, go here, then here.)
Photography by Clare Coulson.
Above: Where to even begin? My cottage garden, photographed here in midsummer, is an ever-changing tableau of favorite plants and supporting acts that lurk in the background. It’s always good to remember when you start out that plants can be moved, replaced, or relocated and that the picture is never final or complete—there’s always something that can be tweaked or improved—and that is half the enjoyment of gardening.
1. Get trees in first.
Above: Early spring in my garden and there’s still not that much flowering, but the Amelanchier lamarckii tree provides starry white blossoms. By the time the spring bulbs really get going, the pretty bronze foliage of this tree will emerge providing an interesting contrast with the bright colors below. Additional structure here comes from the domed forms of Choisya ternata, hebes and Ilex crenata. In the distance, a lot of euphorbia.
Planting design is about a series of layers, from the woody plants, including trees and climbers, to the shrubs, herbaceous perennials, biennials, and annuals. Most gardens will have a mix of all of these types of plants to create a succession of interest throughout the year, and a balance of structural plants that will provide a backdrop to herbaceous plants that will flower and die back.
It’s logical to begin with the trees since they generally need the most time to mature. They are also arguably the most important thing to get right, being the least ephemeral. Incorporating some trees, or even a single specimen, can instantly ground a space, bringing strong structure, height, and impact—as well as, in many cases, year-round interest. For this same reason think very carefully before removing any mature trees or shrubs from an inherited space.
It’s the one place perhaps where it’s worth spending some money to buy something really beautiful—a trio of Amelanchier or Prunus multi-stem or specimen trees, for example, may feel like a big investment, but it will have instant impact, as well as blossoms in spring, lush foliage through summer, and then great leaf color later in the year. In winter its form has its own allure. Tip: Buy young trees—they are far more economical and will usually settle in faster than mature specimens. Buying bareroot plants also helps to keep down costs.
2. Invest in evergreens.
Above: Controlled chaos. There are a lot of frothy plants in this border snapshot including Valerian officinalis, hesperis, roses, Allium sphaerocephalon, catmint, and hardy geraniums. But the structure from clipped boxwood, hebes, and other foliage helps to ground the space and provide moments of contrast.
Another worthwhile investment: evergreen forms that will provide four-season structure. Boxwood would have ticked all the boxes, but now that these are under the dual threat of box blight and box caterpillar, few gardeners would take a risk with them. There are plenty of alternatives—yew, Ilex crenata, many pittosporums, rosemary, hebes, daphnes can all be grown into shapes that will provide permanent year-round forms and act as a foil to herbaceous plants. Deciduous plants like beech and hornbeam can also provide structure, too. (See Landscaping 101: Boxed in by Boxwood? 5 Shrubs to Try Instead.)
We’re visiting with Carla Z. Mudry in Malvern, PA, looking back at her garden in January when it was transformed by snow:
The winter garden has its own glory. More structural in nature but a nice fluffy snow will make it soften into a Currier & Ives scene. The winter garden is not only beautiful but allows you to see clearly what you might wish to trim, prune, add, or even move!
Appreciate the magic of the winter season in your garden.
Garden sculptures take on a whole new look in the snow.
The structure of trees, especially evergreens, is so apparent with snow accenting each and every branch.
Winter is the time for this huge holly (Ilexopaca, Zone 5 – 9) to shine. Just a stunning plant.
Closer view of the snow-covered holly, dark green leaves and red berries looking all the better for the contrast with the snow.
Berries look so great in the snow. And besides being beautiful, they help provide food for the birds to get them through the cold months. Some berries don’t get softened and ripe enough for birds to eat until after freezing weather, effectively saving them for when food is needed the most.
Carla’s owl sculpture, carved from the stump of a tree, looks beautiful every day of the year, but especially magical in the snow.
One thing that makes getting through the winter as a gardener easier: A greenhouse!
Art and sculpture in the garden is extra essential in the winter months.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Is it true that concrete sleepers are the best choice for your landscaping needs?
You may have heard the buzz about concrete sleepers in Sydney, praised for their durability and versatility. But how do they really stack up against other popular landscaping materials such as timber, natural stone, or bricks?
You may find it surprising that the answer isn’t as straightforward as you’d think.
In this article, we’ll take a look at the pros and cons of each material, helping you make an informed decision about the most suitable choice for your project.
Understanding concrete sleepers
Concrete sleepers are a durable and versatile option for landscaping. You’re probably familiar with wood and metal as go-to materials, but concrete sleepers can offer unique benefits that set them apart.
To start, they’re incredibly durable. Concrete sleepers resist the elements with ease, shrugging off rain, snow, and scorching sun. They won’t warp or rot like wood, and they’re impervious to pests.
But it’s not all about toughness: concrete sleepers also offer versatility in design. They come in a wide range of colours, textures, and patterns. You can choose a rustic, wood-like appearance, or opt for a sleek, modern design.
Lastly, the installation of concrete sleepers isn’t as daunting as it may seem. With the right preparation and a bit of elbow grease, you can do it yourself. That’s a cost-saving you’ll appreciate.
In essence, you’re looking at a landscaping material that’s robust, versatile, and user-friendly. So next time you’re planning a garden project, consider concrete sleepers. They might be the perfect fit for your needs.
Benefits of concrete sleepers
Building on their impressive versatility and durability, concrete sleepers also offer a host of other benefits worth considering.
You’ll appreciate the low maintenance that concrete sleepers require. Unlike wood, they don’t rot or attract termites, and they resist weathering. Furthermore, they’re fire-resistant, which is a key consideration if you live in a fire-prone area.
Their aesthetic appeal is another plus. Available in various designs and textures, you can choose a style that complements your outdoor setting. Whether you’re after a modern, rustic or traditional look, there’s a concrete sleeper to match your taste.
Lastly, concrete sleepers are often made from recycled materials, reducing the strain on our natural resources.
Drawbacks of concrete sleepers
Despite their numerous advantages, concrete sleepers aren’t without their drawbacks, and it’s important you’re aware of these before making your decision. While they’re a popular choice in landscaping, there are certain factors that might cause you to think twice.
First, concrete sleepers are heavy. This not only makes them hard to handle, but it also increases the cost of transportation. You’ll need special equipment to move them around, which can also increase your project costs.
Second, concrete sleepers lack the natural look that other materials offer. If you’re aiming for a more natural-looking landscape, concrete might not be your best bet.
Third, while concrete sleepers can be made from recycled materials, they require a lot of energy to produce, contributing to carbon emissions.
Lastly, concrete sleepers can be prone to cracking over time, especially in areas with extreme weather conditions.
Comparing concrete and timber
When you’re weighing up the pros and cons of concrete and timber for your landscaping project, several key differences come into play. You’ll find that both materials have their unique strengths and challenges; it’s all about matching these with your specific needs.
Concrete sleepers, for instance, are known for being low maintenance. These sturdy components can withstand harsh weather conditions and are resistant to rot, fire, and pests. However, they’re heavy and need professional installation. Also, they don’t offer much in terms of natural beauty or warmth.
Timber, on the other hand, is the complete opposite. It’s lightweight, easy to install, and adds natural elegance to any landscape. It’s also more flexible, allowing for creative designs. The downside? Timber requires regular maintenance to prevent decay, and it’s not as resilient to fire or pests as concrete.
In the end, the choice between concrete and timber comes down to your project’s specific requirements and your personal preference. Whether you value durability over aesthetics or vice versa, understanding these differences can help you make an informed decision.
Concrete sleepers vs. natural stone
Now, let’s shift our focus to another popular landscaping material – natural stone, and see how it measures up against concrete sleepers.
Aesthetics: Natural stone has a unique, elegant look that’s hard to replicate. It’s available in a variety of colours and textures, which can add a touch of class to your landscape. In contrast, concrete sleepers are more uniform and less distinctive, but they can be stained or painted to fit your design.
Durability: Concrete sleepers are extremely durable and resistant to weather conditions. However, natural stone can crack or chip over time, especially in areas with severe weather.
Maintenance: Both materials require minimal maintenance. Concrete sleepers just need occasional cleaning, while natural stone may require resealing every few years.
Cost: Natural stone is typically more expensive than concrete sleepers, mainly due to its extraction, processing, and transportation costs.
You’ll need to decide what’s more important to you: the natural, timeless beauty of stone, or the durability, ease of maintenance, and cost-effectiveness of concrete sleepers.
Bricks vs. concrete sleepers
Let’s delve into how this classic material stacks up against concrete sleepers in your landscaping projects.
Bricks, with their warm, traditional aesthetic, can add a charming, rustic vibe. However, they can be more expensive and labour-intensive to install than concrete sleepers.
Concrete sleepers, on the other hand, are durable, resistant to the elements, and can withstand significant weight, making them ideal for structures like retaining walls. They’re also relatively easy to install and require little maintenance, saving you time and effort in the long run.
You might worry that concrete sleepers lack the visual appeal of bricks, but you’d be surprised by the variety of designs and colours available. From mimicking natural stone to sleek modern styles, concrete sleepers can complement a wide range of landscapes.
In terms of cost, concrete sleepers are generally more affordable than bricks, especially when you factor in installation and maintenance costs. So, while bricks have their charm, concrete sleepers offer a practical, cost-effective, and aesthetically pleasing alternative for your landscaping needs.
As always, it’s best to weigh these factors according to your specific project requirements and personal preferences.
Making the best landscaping choice
Ultimately, it’s your individual landscaping goals and preferences that will determine the best material choice for your project. Your decision should reflect your vision for your space, factoring in your lifestyle needs, aesthetic preferences, and budget.
To make the best landscaping choice, consider the following factors:
Functionality: What’s the purpose of your landscaping? If you’re building a retaining wall, concrete sleepers are sturdy and durable. For pathways, bricks or pavers might be more suitable.
Aesthetics: What look are you going for? Concrete sleepers have a modern, industrial vibe, while bricks offer a classic, traditional look.
Maintenance: How much time can you spare for upkeep? Concrete is low-maintenance, while other materials like wood may require regular treatment.
Cost: Can your budget accommodate your preferred material? Concrete sleepers might be cost-effective in the long run due to their durability, but the initial cost might be higher.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the typical cost of concrete sleepers compared to other landscaping materials?
Typically, concrete sleepers are more expensive upfront, but prove cost-effective in the long run due to their durability and low maintenance. Prices vary based on suppliers.
How environmentally friendly are concrete sleepers compared to other options?
You’ll find concrete sleepers aren’t as eco-friendly as natural stone or wood. They’re energy-intensive to produce, but they win on longevity, reducing the need for frequent replacements.
What are some design options for concrete sleepers?
Concrete sleepers come in different colours, shapes, and textures. You can even mimic the look of wood, stone, or brick. It’s all about your personal style and preferences.
How do concrete sleepers fare in different weather conditions compared to other materials?
Concrete sleepers withstand various weather conditions better than most materials. They’re resistant to rot, termites, and fire, offering durability that wood or other materials can’t match. They’re a great choice for longevity.
Can concrete sleepers be easily installed by homeowners or do they require professional installation?
You can install concrete sleepers yourself, but it’s not a walk in the park. They’re heavy and awkward, so you’ll need help. Using professionals will ensure proper installation, saving you time and potential injury.
Conclusion
In the grand scheme of landscaping, concrete sleepers are tough as nails, durable as the day is long, and versatile to boot. Standing up to timber, stone, and brick, they can hold their own. Weighing up the pros and cons of each material and taking time to identify your priorities will help you make the right choice for your garden project.
A clean and fresh home is an essential aspect of a healthy and happy lifestyle. However, over time, walls, ceilings, and other surfaces can accumulate dirt, grime, and stains. Painting is a great way to give your home a fresh look, but it’s important to start with a clean slate. A clean start and a flawless finish is the key to upgrading your home with cleaning and painting.
Before painting, you need to prepare the surfaces properly. This includes cleaning, sanding, and repairing any damage.
Cleaning the surfaces removes any dirt, dust, and grease, which can affect the adhesion of the paint. Sanding helps to smooth out any rough spots and creates a surface that the paint can adhere to. Repairing any damage, such as cracks or holes, ensures a smooth and even finish. By taking the time to properly prepare the surfaces, you’ll achieve a professional-looking finish that will last for years to come.
When it comes to painting, there are many techniques to achieve a professional finish. From using the right tools to applying the paint in the correct order, each step is important. Choosing the right colour and finish is also crucial to achieving the desired look. With the right techniques and colour selection, you can create a space that reflects your personal style and enhances your home’s overall aesthetic.
Preparation for painting
Before starting any painting project, it is essential to prepare the room and surfaces properly. The following subsections will guide you through the preparation process.
Room and surface preparation
A flawless paint job starts with a spotless workspace. Thorough cleaning is crucial before painting, as it ensures proper paint adhesion and a smooth, even finish.
Start by removing all furniture and decor. Cover any remaining items with drop cloths to protect them from dust and paint.
Next, tackle those walls! Fill any cracks or holes and sand them smooth when dry. Use painter’s tape to protect the trim, doors, and other areas that do not require painting. Pay special attention to corners and areas where the ceiling meets the wall.
If you’re short on time or want to guarantee a perfectly prepped space, a house cleaner in Melbourne can expertly handle the cleaning process. This allows you to focus on the creative aspects of painting and ensures the best possible end result.
Choosing the right tools and materials
Choosing the right tools and materials is crucial for achieving a professional finish. Use a high-quality paintbrush or roller to apply the paint evenly.
The type of paint you choose will depend on the surface you are painting. For example, you could use a satin or semi-gloss paint for trim and doors, and a flat or eggshell finish for walls.
Priming for perfection
Priming is an essential step that should not be skipped. It helps the paint adhere better to the surface and provides a uniform base for the paint. Choose a primer that is suitable for the surface you are painting. For example, use a stain-blocking primer for walls with water stains or smoke damage.
Humidity can affect the drying time of the paint, so try to avoid painting on humid or rainy days. Ensure that the room is well-ventilated and that there is adequate lighting to see any imperfections.
Painting techniques for a professional finish
Achieving a professional finish when painting a room requires more than just selecting the right colour. Brush and roller techniques, even coverage and texture, and mastering edges and corners are all critical to creating a stylish finish.
Brush and roller techniques
When painting, it’s important to choose the right brush or roller for the job. Synthetic brushes are ideal for water-based paints, while natural bristle brushes are best for oil-based paints. Rollers with a shorter nap are better for smooth surfaces, while longer nap rollers are better for textured surfaces.
To avoid lap marks and achieve even coverage, always maintain a wet edge. This means overlapping each stroke slightly with the previous one. Use long, even strokes when applying the paint, and be sure to fill in any missed spots.
Achieving even coverage and texture
To ensure even coverage, apply multiple coats of paint, allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Sand the surface smooth between coats for a crisp, clean finish.
To add depth and dimension, consider using a glossy or matte finish. Glossy finishes are ideal for creating shine and depth, while matte finishes are better for a more subtle look.
Mastering edges and corners
Use a high-quality brush to create crisp lines and avoid drips and smudges. Be sure to paint the corners first, using a smaller brush to get into tight spaces.
By using proper painting techniques and following these tips, anyone can paint a room like a pro.
The importance of colour and finish selection
When it comes to upgrading a home with cleaning and painting, choosing the right colour and finish is crucial. It can make a significant difference to the overall appearance and aesthetic of a room.
Color choice and room dynamics
Choosing the right paint colour can be a daunting task. Consider the dynamics of the room when making a decision. Different colours can evoke different moods and emotions, and it is essential to choose a colour that complements the room’s purpose.
For instance, blue is known for its calming effect and is an excellent choice for bedrooms, while red is an energising colour and is best suited to living rooms or dining rooms.
Additionally, it is essential to consider the room’s lighting when selecting a paint colour. Natural lighting can change the appearance of a colour throughout the day, and artificial lighting can also affect how a colour looks. It’s advisable to test paint colours in different lighting conditions before making a final decision.
Understanding paint finishes
Another crucial aspect of paint selection is understanding the different paint finishes available. The finish of a paint can significantly impact the appearance and durability of a painted surface.
High-gloss finishes are known for their shine and durability, making them an excellent choice for high-traffic areas such as kitchens and bathrooms. On the other hand, flat finishes are ideal for ceilings or low-traffic areas, as they are less durable but provide a smoother appearance.
Exterior painting services specialise in understanding the unique demands of exterior surfaces. They’ll help you select the right finish that not only achieves your desired look, but also provides the necessary protection against sun, rain, and other harsh elements. Quality paint can provide better coverage, adhesion, and colour retention, making the final result more durable and aesthetically pleasing.
Post-painting cleanup and maintenance
After completing a painting project, it’s essential to clean up properly to maintain your tools and keep your property neat. In this section, we’ll discuss effective cleaning after painting, plus touch-ups and long-term care.
Effective cleaning after painting
The first step in cleaning up after painting is to remove painter’s tape carefully to avoid peeling off fresh paint. Next, clean your brushes and rollers thoroughly, and store them properly for future use. For water-based paints, brushes, rollers, and trays can be washed with warm soapy water. For oil-based paints, use mineral spirits to clean the tools.
When cleaning the walls, use a mild detergent and a soft cloth to avoid damaging the fresh coat of paint. Finally, clean the floors and other surfaces to remove any debris and avoid tracking paint throughout the house.
Touch-ups and long-term care
Even with the most careful painting techniques, imperfections such as drips or missed spots can occur. To fix these issues, you can use touch-up paint and a synthetic brush to blend in the touch-up with the rest of the wall.
For long-term care, it’s important to consider environmental factors such as weather and lighting conditions. Adequate ventilation and lighting are crucial when painting a room, and different lighting conditions can affect the appearance of the finished product.
By following these cleaning and touch-up techniques, the DIY enthusiast can achieve a professional finish and maintain the beauty of their home for years to come.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the essential steps to prepare surfaces for painting?
Before painting a surface, it is essential to prepare it properly. The first step is to clean the surface thoroughly. This can be done using warm water and a mild detergent. Any dirt, grease, or grime must be removed from the surface. Once the surface is clean, it should be sanded to remove any loose or peeling paint. The surface should then be primed to ensure that the paint adheres properly.
Is priming necessary for all types of siding before painting?
Priming is essential for all types of siding before painting. It helps the paint adhere better to the surface and provides a smooth finish. Priming also helps to seal any cracks or gaps in the surface, preventing moisture from seeping in and causing damage.
How can you effectively clean walls before applying paint?
To effectively clean walls before painting, start by dusting the walls with a soft cloth or brush. Then, mix warm water and a mild detergent in a bucket. Dip a sponge or cloth into the solution and wring it out well. Wipe the walls with the sponge or cloth, starting at the top and working your way down. Rinse the sponge or cloth frequently and change the water in the bucket as needed. Once the walls are clean, rinse them with clean water and let them dry completely before painting.
What techniques ensure a smooth paint finish on exterior cladding?
To ensure a smooth paint finish on exterior cladding, it is important to choose the right type of paint. For example, masonry paint is ideal for brickwork, while oil-based paint is best for wood. It is also important to use a high-quality paintbrush or roller and apply the paint evenly. Start at the top of the cladding and work your way down, applying the paint in long, even strokes.
Can you paint over previously painted brick surfaces?
Yes, it is possible to paint over previously painted brick surfaces. However, it is important to prepare the surface properly before painting. This involves cleaning the surface thoroughly, removing any loose or peeling paint, and filling any cracks or gaps. The surface should then be primed before painting.
How do you choose the right type of paint for different cladding materials?
Different cladding materials require different types of paint. Masonry paint is best on brickwork, while wood is suited to oil-based paint. It is important to choose a paint that is specifically designed for the type of cladding you are painting. This will ensure that the paint adheres properly and provides a long-lasting finish.
Cultivate bay laurel for flavor & privacy. Get the details of planting & propagating bay leaf—expert tips for growing bay leaf in any climate.
Did you know you could grow a bay leaf (also known as bay laurel) plant? It makes an excellent privacy hedge, and its leaves add a delightful flavor to soups, stews, and rice. Additionally, bay laurel leaves make beautiful wreaths and more. Discover the secrets to growing bay leaf in this blog post.
Bay laurel (Lauro nobilis) is native to the Mediterranean and thrives outdoors year-round in warm climates (USDA zones 8-10). Here in the low desert of Arizona, bay laurel is a reliable perennial herb. However, if you live in a colder zone, growing it in a container is your best bet. This will allow you to bring it indoors during winter when temperatures drop below freezing.
Jump to the topics below that you would like to learn more about:
How to plant bay laurel
The easiest way to start bay laurel is to find a transplant at a local nursery.
Opt for a location that receives ample sunlight. Morning sun and afternoon shade are ideal, especially in a hot summer climate like Arizona.
Plant outside in good to average soil that is well-draining to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot. If your soil is heavy and retains water, consider amending it with organic matter such as compost to improve drainage.
Plants can grow large, but tend to have an upright form. Space bay laurel plants 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 meters) apart. Use closer spacing of 3-4 feet (.9-1.2 m) apart for privacy hedges.
To plant bay leaf, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball of your plant but just as deep so that the transplant is neither too low nor too high in the ground. Gently loosen the roots to encourage growth, place the plant in the hole, and fill it back in with native soil. Lightly tamp down the soil around the plant and water it thoroughly. Top with mulch.
How to propagate bay leaf from cuttings
If you can’t find transplants at a local nursery, you can make your plant with a cutting. Bay laurel is pretty slow-growing, but propagation can be an excellent way to get a plant.
To propagate bay laurel from a cutting, select a healthy, young stem from an established plant during the spring or summer when the plant’s growth is most vigorous.
Cut a 4-to-6-inch (10-15 cm) section just below a leaf node where the concentration of growth hormones is high. Strip the lower leaves, leaving two or three at the top, and remove the top half of those leaves. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone to encourage root development. Then, plant the cutting in a well-draining soil mixture that contains vermiculite or perlite.
Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and place the pot in a warm spot with indirect sunlight. You may need to cover it to help maintain the humidity. Take the cover off when the plant starts growing.
Take more cuttings than you need – usually about ½ will take. With patience and proper care, roots will develop, and you’ll have a new bay laurel plant to nurture and eventually harvest leaves.
When to plant bay laurel
In most areas, you will plant in the spring. In mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, you can also plant in the fall. Young bay laurel plants are sensitive to frost, so cover them in the first winter or two if they freeze.
Once established, they can tolerate some frost (down to zone 8) but not long-extended freezes.
The leaves will probably turn brown and dry if a light frost hits your bay laurel. Prune off any damaged leaves after the danger of frost has passed. If your tree shows signs of die-back in the spring, prune the stems below the damage. Established bay laurel tolerates light frosts and short-term freezes.
How to care for bay leaf
One of the easier plants in my landscape is this slow-growing plant. I keep it on a drip system that gets watered about once a week in the summer and every 2-4 weeks in the cooler temperatures. Bay leaf is relatively pest-free. Some people even use bay leaves as a natural form of pest control.
The natural upright growth form and slow growth make bay laurel an excellent privacy hedge. But you can prune as needed for shape. The best time to prune bay laurel is when it is dormant, in early spring, before new growth forms. To keep the tree small, you can prune as much or as little as you like.
How to grow bay leaf in containers
To grow bay laurel in a container, use a large pot (about 24 inches/60 cm) and a quality potting mix or raised bed mix. When planting bay laurel, choose a young but well-established transplant.
Fill the container halfway up with soil and make a hole in the center of the pot that is slightly larger than the root ball of your transplant. Carefully place the bay laurel into the hole at the same level as the nursery pot and fill in around it with soil, patting down gently to eliminate air pockets. Water the plant thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the roots and provide moisture for growth.
Because bay laurel is slow-growing, you shouldn’t need to repot it more than once every five years. Place the container in a sunny spot where it can get at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Once temperatures are below 50°F (10°C), bring it indoors and give it lots of light. During a freeze, cover young plants or bring them indoors.
Harvesting bay leaves
Harvesting bay laurel is simple: pick off the desired leaves. Select the larger, more flavorful leaves, and avoid taking too many leaves at once. Harvest mature leaves at any time for use in recipes. However, you should wait until the plant is a year or two old before significant harvests.
Leaves are typically dried before using (learn how below) to reduce bitterness.
How to dry bay laurel leaves
Drying your bay laurel leaves is simple. To begin, pick the leaves from your bay laurel plant during the late summer when they are mature and aromatic. For the best results, choose whole, undamaged leaves. After harvesting, wash the leaves gently in cold water and pat them dry with a paper towel to remove any debris or residue.
The most traditional method for drying bay leaves involves simply letting them air dry. Spread the clean leaves in a single layer on a drying rack and place them in a warm, dry room with good airflow. Avoid direct sunlight as it can fade the leaves and reduce their potent flavor. It can take a few weeks for the leaves to dry completely. You’ll know they are ready when they feel crisp to the touch and crumble when bent.
Alternatively, you can dry bay leaves in the oven for a faster process. Preheat the oven to its lowest setting, usually between 175°F to 200°F (79°C to 93°C). Place the leaves on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup. Put the tray in the oven and leave the door ajar to allow moisture to escape. Check the leaves every 20 minutes and turn them occasionally to ensure even drying. This process should take about 1 to 2 hours.
Once dried, store the bay leaves in an airtight container in a cool, dark place to preserve their flavor. They can last several years when stored properly but are most flavorful within the first year.
How to use bay leaf
When used in cooking, bay laurel leaves impart a subtle depth and a hint of earthiness to dishes. Add bay leaves early in cooking, giving them time to simmer with soups, stews, and sauces. The heat releases their volatile oils, responsible for their characteristic aroma and flavor.
One of the most classic applications is in a bouquet garni, where bay leaves are bundled with other herbs like thyme and parsley to infuse broths. Moreover, a single leaf can be the secret ingredient in a pot of beans, a hearty Bolognese sauce, or a savory brine.
Remove leaves before serving, as they can be sharp and difficult to digest if left whole. One or two leaves are sufficient to season most recipes.
I made this fun wreath using bay leaves. I let it hang in my kitchen, so it’s easy to pop into soups or stews when I need one. The fresh leaves will dry naturally on the wreath, retaining their shape and fragrance. Learn how to make your own in this blog post.
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Peaches are the ultimate summer fruit – sweet, juicy, and fragrant. But growing them can be challenging, especially if you’re a beginner. The good news is that you can learn how to grow delicious peaches in your garden with some knowledge. Learn how to grow peach trees and grow the best peaches you’ve ever tasted. There’s nothing better than picking a ripe peach from the tree and eating it right in the garden.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
8 Tips for How to Grow Big & Tasty Peaches
1. Choose the right peach variety for your climate
The first step to growing great peaches is selecting the right variety for your areaand climate. Check with local growers and neighbors to see what grows well.
A common misconception when selecting peach trees is assuming that all varieties can grow in any climate. Understanding chill hours plays a significant role in making the decision of which variety of peach tree to plant.
Chill hours are the number of cold hours (usually between 32°F – 45°F / 0°C – 7.2°C) a peach tree needs during its dormant winter period to produce fruit effectively. Each variety has specific chill hour requirements, which, if met, will help the tree blossom and yield fruit optimally.
Start by checking local agricultural extension offices or online resources for the average chill hours in your region. Then, pick a peach variety with chill hour requirements that match your area’s conditions.
Seek out local growers and nurseries that can make this process simple. Avoid purchasing fruit online unless you know it will grow well in your area.
Other considerations when deciding which peach tree to plant:
Plant fruit you enjoy eating! Try to sample the fruit before you buy a tree. (Another reason why purchasing from a local grower is important).
Ensure the tree you purchase is self-fruitful (does not need a different type of tree for pollination) unless you plan on planting both types of trees.
Select small, healthy trees with established grafts and a strong root system.
This fruit planting guide lists the varieties of peaches (and many other types of fruit) that grow well in the low desert of Arizona.
2. Plant your peach tree correctly and in the best location
Peach tree location guidelines:
Enough room to reach maturity (look at the mature size on the plant information tag).
At least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight.
Do not plant in lawn areas.
If you have a peach tree already growing in a lawn area, adjust the watering from shallow, frequent watering to a longer and less frequent watering cycle. This is better for trees and it’s better for the grass too!
Peach tree planting guidelines:
Plant container-grown plants in fall or spring. Bare root trees should be planted in early spring.
Dig a wide, shallow hole just deep enough for the roots.
Backfill the hole with native, unamended soil. Do not amend the planting area. Roots adapt to the soil conditions of your garden.
Do not plant too deeply or bury the graft.
Tamp the soil down and water it well to settle the soil.
3. How to Grow Peach Trees: Learn how to prune your peach tree
Proper pruning helps maintain the tree’s shape and size and prevents common diseases and pest infestations. Consider keeping your fruit trees small and manageable. The book “Grow a Little Fruit Tree” is an invaluable guide for pruning and size management in the home garden.
Key concepts for successful pruning:
Initial Hard Prune: Prune fruit tree to knee high. This keeps the overall size of the tree small.
Early Years: Young peach trees require formative pruning to establish a strong framework and root system. In the first few years, focus on creating an open center shape, removing overcrowded or crossing branches to promote airflow and light penetration.
Winter Pruning: During the tree’s dormant season, prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood and open up the tree’s interior. This helps prevent the spread of diseases and encourages healthy growth in the spring. Remember, peach trees bear fruit on last year’s wood. Keep the number of branches manageable for better quality fruit.
Summer Pruning: Lightly pruning in the summer months helps maintain a manageable tree size and slows the tree’s growth.
Winter pruning
4. Learn how to water your peach tree correctly
Watering your peach tree correctly encourages deep roots and promotes healthy growth.
Young trees need more frequent watering (but less of it) than established trees.
For mature trees, the key is to water deeply but less often. A good rule of thumb is to water your tree about once a week while it’s actively growing and saturate the soil to a depth of at least 18 inches.
Let the soil dry out at a few inches down before you water again. Avoid getting water on the leaves or fruit, which can cause fungal problems.
Adjust the frequency based on rainfall and soil type. Sandy soil may need more frequent watering, while clay soil retains moisture longer. Over-watering can lead to root rot and other diseases while under-watering can stress the tree and hinder fruit production.
Signs of over-watering include yellowing leaves and wilted new growth.
Underwatered trees may have wilting or curling leaves, stunted growth, and reduced fruit size.
Use a hose or drip irrigation system to water at the tree’s drip line, allowing the water to penetrate deeply into the soil. Avoid wetting the foliage to prevent fungal diseases.
Add a layer of organic mulch around the tree (leaving some space around the trunk) to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
5. How to Grow Peach Trees: Fertilize your peach tree as needed
Apply organic fertilizer in late winter or early spring. Give your tree a boost by adding compost and/or worm castings to the soil around the tree anytime during the growing season.
6. Thin the fruit to improve quality
Thinning your peach tree might feel counterintuitive, but trust me; it’s worth it! Properly thinning your peach tree allows the tree to focus its energy on growing fewer, larger peaches. On average, remove up to 75% of the fruit.
Early Thinning: Thin your peach tree as soon as the fruits are about the size of a dime (20 mm). Leave at least 6 inches (15 cm) between each fruit to prevent overcrowding.
Second Round: Check back after a week or two and then thin it again if needed. This ensures the tree isn’t wasting energy on too many small fruits. Allowing it to focus on producing larger, tastier peaches.
Keeping your peach tree pruned to a comfortable height makes it easier to reach and thin the fruit.
Quality Over Quantity: Remember, having fewer but bigger and juicier peaches is better than an abundance of small, hard ones.
Another benefit of keeping peach trees small is that you don’t need a ladder to harvest the fruit. Allow the fruit to ripen on the tree as long as possible. Peaches will soften once picked but won’t get any sweeter. Look for firm but slightly soft fruit, a vibrant color change, and a sweet aroma as indicators that it’s ready to be picked.
The birds often know when the fruit is ripe before we do. To protect your peaches from birds and other animals, consider picking them a little earlier than fully ripe and putting them in a paper sack to let them ripen.
Even with our best efforts, the birds peck a few (or many) peaches from our trees. I feed the pecked peaches to my chickens and also add the pecked peaches to my in-bed vermicomposting bins. The chickens relish the fruity treat, and the worms work their magic, transforming the leftovers into nutrient-rich worm castings.
8. Store and use peaches in a variety of ways
Handle peaches carefully; they bruise very easily. Once ripe, peaches need to be eaten or processed quickly. Putting them in the fridge gives you a couple of extra days before they go bad.
Freezing: To remove the skins, blanch peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds, then transfer to ice water to cool. The skins will slip easily from the peach. Slice and store in airtight containers or freezer bags.
Canning: Prepare a simple syrup (sugar and water), peel and slice peaches, pack them into jars, and cover them with the syrup. Process in a water bath canner according to proper canning guidelines.
Common peach tree diseases and pests can be difficult, but the best way to prevent them is by keeping your tree healthy through proper care. Enough sunlight, proper planting, consistent watering, careful pruning, and overall attentive care for your tree will help it build resilience against diseases like leaf curl, brown rot, and pests like borers or aphids. A healthy, well-maintained peach tree is more likely to withstand these challenges.
Learning how to grow peach trees requires a little effort, but the rewards are well worth it. By choosing the right peach variety for your area, learning how to prune your tree, watering deeply, fertilizing, thinning, and harvesting properly, you can grow delicious, juicy peaches that will make your mouth water.
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The velvety flowers stick around for three full months, starting in late spring.
While the cut flowers are fantastic in arrangements, corsages, or floating in water, this bush has such a nice, rounded shape that you can just leave them in place for a picture-perfect display that’s nearly effortless.
G. jasminoides ‘Crown Jewel’ is a cross between the perennial favorites ‘Kleim’s Hardy’ and ‘Chuck Hayes,’ and the result combines the best of both for a plant that will be the pièce de résistance of your garden.
Let’s start with its hardiness. ‘Crown Jewel’ can grow all the way north to Zone 6 and south as far as Zone 11, making it one of the most adaptable cultivars out there.
Then there are the flowers. The double, medium-sized, intensely fragrant blossoms appear twice a year, once on old wood in spring and again on new wood in summer.
It takes its size from ‘Kleim’s Hardy,’ with a three-foot height and four-foot spread.
Bred in 1998 by Philip Dark at his nursery in Siler City, North Carolina, and patented in 2009, ‘Crown Jewel’ was created with the goal of breeding a cold-hardy cultivar that also had showy double blossoms. Mission accomplished.
G. jasminoides ‘Daisy’ was named accordingly with medium-sized, flat, single blossoms that showcase five petals and a bright yellow center.
As the fragrant flowers age, they turn cream colored.
Growing up to four feet tall and five feet wide, this bush is covered in flowers from spring until mid-fall, and it has dark green, lanceolate leaves. It’s hardy in Zones 7 to 10.
As a reliable grower that is both tough and floriferous, ‘Daisy’ has served as the parent of many excellent cultivars. It’s one of the oldest cultivars in production.
Owner of Transcend Nursery in Independence, Louisiana, and Director of Plant Innovations and Plant Development Services, Inc., Robert Edward “Buddy” Lee is a well-respected breeder of azaleas and gardenias. He bred a real jewel with this one.
G. jasminoides ‘Leefive,’ commonly sold under the name Diamond Spire™, isn’t like other gardenias. It sparkles with a unique columnar growth habit that just begs to be placed in a decorative container.
In Zones 7 to 10, this four-foot-tall, two-foot-wide shrub is covered in medium, single white blossoms from late spring through fall.
Even when the blossoms aren’t present – which isn’t very long – the foliage has a unique crinkly texture to it, adding visual interest.
Diamond Spire™ was discovered in 2010 and released to the market in 2020.
Visit Plants By Mail to find Diamond Spire™ gardenias available in two-and-a-half quart or two-gallon containers.
6. Everblooming
If you’re tired of gardenias that don’t bloom as reliably as you’d like, G. jasminoides ‘Veitchii’ is going to put a smile on your face.
It’s widely regarded as the most reliable bloomer of all the common cultivars.
Everblooming, as its name suggests, blooms reliably and abundantly from spring through fall with medium-sized double flowers that look like roses but smell like jasmine.
If you’re lucky, it might even flower straight through winter. It’s truly an ever-blooming gardenia.
The shrub is compact and rounded, growing to four feet tall and three feet wide. If you like cutting the flowers to bring them indoors, this one is a good option.
Grab a live plant in a #5 container at Nature Hills Nursery, plant it, sit back, and watch the extended show.
7. Fool Proof
If you’re looking for a classic gardenia, look no further than G. x ‘Leesix,’ aka Fool Proof™.
Bred by Robert “Buddy” Edward Lee of Independence, Louisiana, this plant has all the classic characteristics of a gardenia.
Happy in Zones 7 to 10, it has large, double, heavily fragrant white flowers that appear in late spring and bloom sporadically through summer.
Fool Proof™ is disease-resistant, compact at four feet tall and three feet wide, and reliable without being demanding.
It’s so easy to grow, a child could do it, which must be the reason it was given the name Fool Proof™. Lee discovered the plant in 2010, and it was released to the market in 2020.
You probably already guessed from the name, but G. jasminoides ‘Frostproof’ isn’t daunted by the cold.
Hardy down to Zone 7a, the flower buds that emerge in the early spring won’t be killed off by a late frost.
Once the medium-sized, double blossoms open, you’ll be greeted by a sweet perfume that is most abundant during the first flush in early summer, followed by sporadic flowering throughout the rest of summer.
Petite G. jasminoides ‘Leeone,’ commonly known as Jubilation™, grows to about four feet tall and wide at most, with a dense, rounded shape.
The leaves are lanceolate, setting it apart from many cultivars.
It blooms in early spring with masses of double, pure white blossoms with an intense fragrance. Jubilation™ tolerates heat and humidity, and is resistant to pests and fungal diseases, making it a popular option with southern growers.
Part of the Southern Living Plant Collection, it was bred from open-pollinated ‘Daisy’ by Robert Edward Lee in 2000 in Independence, Louisiana, and patented in 2011.
You can nab a live plant in a two-and-a-half-quart, two-, or three-gallon container at Plants By Mail.
10. Kleim’s Hardy
Plant breeder and botanist Don Kleim of the Henderson Experimental Gardens in California discovered this gardenia and introduced it to the market, and since then, G. jasminoides ‘Kleim’s Hardy’ has been wildly popular in gardens from Zones 7 to 11.
G. jasminoides ‘Miami Supreme’ lives up to its name. The flowers are so large that they need their own category. Not just large, they are supremely large, growing up to six inches across.
The plant itself is large as well. It grows about six feet tall and equally wide.
It’s also quite cold tolerant, hardy from Zone 7 to 10, with large, double blossoms that blanket the two-foot-tall, four-foot-wide shrub in ivory during the spring.
Snuggle up to ‘Pillow Talk’ by bringing one home from Burpee.
13. Radicans
She might look like a miniature white rose, but G. jasminoides ‘Radicans’ is all gardenia.
The tiny shrub grows to just a foot tall and a few feet wide, and sometimes a bit larger, but it will still fill your garden with fragrance when it’s draped from head to toe in heady, medium-sized double flowers.
It’s also tolerant of heat and drought, which means it would be equally happy in a container on your patio that may dry out quickly, or lining the walkway to your house.
Fast Growing Trees has plants available in both gallon and three-gallon containers.
Or you can pick up the variegated version (G. jasminoides ‘Radicans Variegata’), which has green leaves edged in cream, at Planting Tree.
14. ScentAmazing
A sister plant to the lovely Jubilation™, G. jasminoides ‘Leetwo’ was bred by the same Robert Edward Lee of Independence, Louisiana.
It must have been a banner year for him, as he bred this gardenia, commonly known as ScentAmazing™ in 2000 as well, also from ‘Daisy.’
He further refined the new cultivar and applied for a patent in 2014, which was granted in 2017.
The resulting gardenia is heat tolerant, has compact, dense growth, resists disease, and is intensely fragrant. It’s also cold-hardy enough to grow in Zones 7 through 10.
Now part of the Southern Living plant collection, this three-foot-tall and equally wide plant has a mounding habit that highlights the single ivory flowers with their cheerful yellow centers.
It blooms with a large flush in late spring and reblooms throughout the summer.
And in case you were curious, there is a ‘Leethree’ and a ‘Leefour’ as well, also bred at the same time.
Head to Plants By Mail for a plant in a two-and-a-half-quart, two-, or three-gallon container.
15. Summer Snow
If you miss the pristine look of fresh snow covering your garden when the warm months roll around, G. jasminoides ‘BAB1183,’ commonly known as Summer Snow®, can recreate the magic with the added bonus of sweet-scented jasmine, thanks to its pure white, double blossoms.
You might be thinking to yourself, “Yes, I have snow in winter because I live in the definitely-gardenia-unfriendly Zone 6.” I hear you, and I’m telling you not to worry.
This is one of the few gardenias that will be perfectly fine in any USDA Hardiness Zone from 6 to 10.
You don’t sacrifice beauty for that hardiness, either. The flowers are large and persist throughout the summer.
Not only can it survive temperatures down to 0°F, but Summer Snow® is also drought tolerant and pest resistant.
Bred by Douglas I. Torn at Buds and Blooms Nursery in 1993, he used a cutting of unknown parentage from a garden in Dania, Florida.
For the next few years, he refined it until it resembled the plant we enjoy today, which was awarded a patent in 2012.
If you’re wishing for snow in the warmer seasons, make your dreams come true by purchasing a live plant in a gallon-sized pot at Fast Growing Trees.
Why Choose Just One?
It can be difficult to choose from all the options out there. Hopefully this list helped you narrow things down.
But you know what? My advice would be to pick two or three. That way, you don’t have to be choosy and you can test a few out for yourself!
Let us know which you end up with and how they work out for you in the comments.
Picking one is just the first step. Now that you’ve figured that out, there’s a lot more tolearn about growing gardenias. Here are a few guides worth checking out next:
Last month I joined Noah Sanders at a community garden, where I gave a talk on Alabama gardening and orchards. We also spent a good bit of time pruning and shaping up the garden’s neglected fruit trees.
While going about our pruning, I found a double pear tree, with two trunks right next to each other. They looked a little too far apart to have split from one. As I was looking at it, I remarked to Noah, “This looks like two trees were planted in one hole.”
Then an older gentleman chimed in. “Yep, that was my fault.”
He introduced himself as Jim Crook and said he’d been helping in the garden for a long time.
I asked him if he double-planted the pears on purpose and he laughed.
“No. I was out here planting bare root trees and had a couple left. It started raining, so I just stuck them both in the hole I’d just dug, meaning to get back to them and take one out later. But I never did and they grew up together.”
We figured out from the plaques around the garden that this pair of trees was most likely planted in 2011.
Jim told me that one of them was a Kieffer, and the other was an Orient.
Jim’s accidental double pear tree proves that you can fit two trees into a single space and they’ll grow just fine.
Sure, you won’t get as much yield, since they’ll curtail each other’s production somewhat; however, you do get two varieties that will pollinate each other without having to dedicate as much yard space to fruit production. If you have a tight space to work with, multi-planting fruit trees makes a lot of sense.
Go out and experiment. Don’t get hung up on whether it’s the “proper” way to grow something. Jim’s pear planting “failure” became a great demonstration of what is possible.
Gardening is not a simple hobby; it’s a form of art that allows individuals to express their creativity while connecting with nature. For many, the garden is a sanctuary of peace, a place where stress is relieved and beauty is cultivated. In the vibrant climate of Florida, gardening takes on a new dimension. The state’s year-round warmth ensures that something is always in bloom, making it an ideal environment for a diverse range of plants and flowers. This thriving ecosystem means moving a garden to a new home in Florida and comes with its own set of challenges and opportunities.
Whether you’re relocating within the state or coming from a different climate, the process requires careful planning and consideration to ensure your garden’s treasures make the journey safely and continue to flourish in their new environment.
The first step in moving your garden is meticulous planning, especially when it involves the delicate task of transporting living plants. Early preparation is key, and this includes seeking the expertise of professionals who specialize in relocating gardens. A moving company that has experience with such tasks can be invaluable, offering specific advice on how to package plants, the best time for the move, and how to care for them during transportation. This partnership ensures your garden receives the attention it deserves, minimizing the stress on your plants and yourself during the move.
Communicating clearly with the movers about your garden’s specific needs is crucial. This discussion should cover which plants are coming with you, any special requirements they have, and the best strategies for ensuring their safety and health during the move. A reliable Florida moving company will understand the importance of your garden to you and will work to accommodate its needs as much as possible, ensuring a smooth transition to your new home.
Before you move, it’s essential to understand the environment you’re moving into. It means getting to know the soil type, light conditions, and general climate of your new home’s garden space. Florida’s climate can vary, with certain areas more humid or prone to different weather patterns than others. Assessing these factors ahead of time will allow you to plan where each plant will go and how you’ll need to care for them once they’re in the ground.
It’s also a good idea to research local flora and consider integrating native plants into your garden. Native species are more likely to thrive and can offer a seamless transition for your garden into its new ecosystem. Planning the layout and understanding the environmental conditions of your new space will ensure that your garden not only survives the move but also thrives in its new location.
Preparation is paramount when it comes to moving plants. Start by pruning any dead or excess growth to help your plants focus their energy on surviving the move. Water them well a few days before moving day, ensuring they’re hydrated but not waterlogged. For plants in the ground, carefully dig them up, preserving as much of the root system as possible, and pot them in sturdy containers that are not too heavy to move.
Transferring your garden plants into plastic pots can also make the move easier, as they’re lighter and less likely to break than ceramic or terracotta alternatives. Label each plant with its name and any specific care instructions to help with the re-planting process. This preparation will not only make the move smoother but will also help your plants adjust more quickly to their new environment, reducing the risk of transplant shock and promoting healthy growth in their new home.
When the moving day arrives, having a strategy in place for transporting your plants is crucial for their survival. Pack your plants last, ensuring they spend the least amount of time confined. If you’re using a moving vehicle, place the plants in a way that they won’t tip over or get crushed by other items. It’s essential to maintain a stable temperature inside the vehicle, avoiding extreme heat or cold, as sudden changes can shock plants. For long-distance moves, consider making stops to check on the plants, providing them with fresh air and water if necessary.
Careful packing can prevent damage during transport. Remember, the goal is to keep the plants as comfortable and stable as possible until they can be settled into their new home.
Upon arrival at your new home, give your plants time to acclimatize to their new surroundings. Start by placing them in a shaded, protected area for a few days, gradually exposing them to more sunlight to mimic their natural environment. This gradual introduction helps prevent shock, allowing the plants to adjust without stress. Pay close attention to how each plant responds during this period, making adjustments as needed based on their health and appearance.
Some plants may show signs of stress, such as drooping or yellowing leaves, which is often a normal part of the adjustment process. Continue to provide consistent care, monitoring their recovery as they begin to acclimate. This patience and attentiveness in the early days can make all the difference in successfully transitioning your garden to its new location.
After the move, your garden will need ongoing care and attention to thrive in its new setting. Start with a thorough watering schedule to help the plants recover from the stress of the move. Assess the soil quality in your new garden and amend it as necessary to provide the best possible foundation for your plants. Keep an eye out for pests and diseases, which can take advantage of plants weakened by the move, and address any issues promptly to prevent spread.
As your garden begins to settle in, take the opportunity to reassess its layout and the health of your plants. You may find that some plants need to be relocated within the garden to better suit their needs or that others might not thrive in the new environment. Be open to making changes and introducing new plants that complement your garden and thrive in the local climate.
Conclusion
Moving your garden to a new home requires careful planning, preparation, and patience, but the rewards of seeing your plants flourish in their new environment are immeasurable. From coordinating with a moving company experienced in handling gardens to giving your plants the care they need to adjust and thrive, each step is an investment in the continued growth and beauty of your garden. Remember, the key to a successful garden relocation is understanding the needs of your plants and providing them with the best possible care before, during, and after the move. With these strategies in mind, you can ensure that your garden remains a source of joy and beauty in your new home.
