Category: Home & Garden

We’ve been doing a lot of plant propagation lately, preparing for a long nursery season. Mulberries, potato mint, Chinese artichoke, tomatoes, peppers, honey locust… and all kinds of other things.

Some we are growing from seed, others from cuttings. It’s fun to help create thousands of new trees and plants.

On Tuesday, my son Perry and I went to see our friend Randall and take cuttings from a huge fig tree in his grandmother’s yard. While there, he asked what rooting hormone we were using to root cuttings. I told him we just used the inexpensive powder you get at nurseries and garden centers. It’s always seemed to work well.

He told me that the pros he’s been reading use Hormodin, so he bought some “Hormodin 3” and has had very good luck with it.

I found it on Amazon for a better price than I could find it at a nursery supply and bought some yesterday. I’ll let you know if it works better than what we’ve been using.

Today we’re working on cleaning up the greenhouse and opening up an area of bare soil in there so Rachel can plant tomatoes in the ground. She’s started about a hundred Romas and wants to make all of our tomato sauce for the year from them. We’ve never tried growing tomatoes in a greenhouse but some of our friends had great luck with greenhouse tomatoes last year. The pounding rains here really wreak havoc on the fruit, so the main gift a greenhouse gives your plants is relief from the rain. We’ll also plant some in pots and see how they manage.

Tomorrow we’ll share the details on our Saturday plant sale in Pensacola – stay tuned.

Do slugs and snails eat your plants and turn their leaves into Swiss cheese overnight? Animals that look like snails are very dangerous because they eat a lot and move very slowly, but they can do a lot of damage very quickly.

People know them for chewing ugly holes in hosta leaves, but they will happily eat the tender leaves of any plant and fruits and veggies that are about to ripen.

Even though they like to damage things, slugs are an important part of the environment because they eat dead plants and provide food for toads, turtles, snakes, and birds. Many of these ways to get rid of slugs won’t hurt the plants, so you can use them to keep them away from certain plants instead of getting rid of them completely.

1. Identify Their Presence

If you have had slugs in the past, you should keep an eye out for them often to keep your plants from getting seriously hurt. They are most busy at night or on cloudy days when it is cool and damp, so you might need a flashlight to find them.

Check the soil under plants and the low-growing leaves, especially in places that get shade. They may hide under rocks and flat stones as well.

Slugs and snails come in different sizes and colors, but their eyestalks, which can grow longer and look a bit like alien antennae, make them easy to spot. As these two bugs move, they leave behind a silvery slime trail that shows there are more of them.

2. Pick Them Off By Hand

This choice is not for people who are easily grossed out, but if you do it regularly, it can work very well. If you see a slug or snail, you should pick it off by hand (gloves will make the job less gross) and throw it into a bucket of clean water to get rid of it. Because slugs like to hide during the day, picking them by hand works best at night or early in the morning.

3. Set A Trap

Slugs and snails in a board trap. Set up simple slug and snail traps all over your yard to catch a lot of these pests at once and make them easier to get rid of. This will save you time from having to remove slugs from each plant individually.

Slugs can hide in upside-down grapefruit or melon rinds, or you can make a cool place for them to stay by putting flat boards on the ground and slightly raising them so they can crawl under them.

Putting beer in a shallow container, like a pie tin, is another good home fix. Slugs and snails will crawl into the trap and die because they like the smell of yeast. It works just as well with a mix of sugar, water, and yeast. Not so great things about beer traps are that they only work within a few feet and need to be refilled every day to really work.

4. Create An Unfavorable Habitat

Slugs and snails like to hang out in the yard in places that are wet, shady, and have a lot of mulch on the ground. They will also hide under logs, trees, and piles of leaves during the day when it is too hot.

Clean up your yard by getting rid of dead leaves and other plant matter. This is especially important in the fall, when slugs and snails are most likely to lay their eggs. If you use mulch, don’t put it down more than 3 inches thick, and keep it away from the plants’ bases so that slugs can’t dig through it to get to the roots that are covered.

Tip: To improve air flow in your garden, divide and thin your plants. This will make it easier for the soil to dry out on top. Slugs and snails will not use the spaces between plants as paths through the yard if you keep those areas dry.

5. Put Up A Barrier

To keep snails and slugs away from raised beds used for a vegetable or herb garden, you can use copper tape along the sides or on top of the frames. When their slime mixes with the copper, it makes them feel bad, like getting a small electric shock.

If you don’t have raised beds, you can also put plants on the ground and wrap copper rings around them. Just make sure that none of the leaves hit the ground around the copper.

Dry diatomaceous earth spread around the garden’s edges can also work as a barrier since slugs don’t like the way it feels, which is sharp and gritty. But you have to put it down again after it rains or when you water because it gets washed into the ground.

For gardening, make sure to use diatomaceous earth that is safe for food or a product made to get rid of pests.

Tip: Some farmers say that coffee grounds or crushed eggshells work well to keep slugs and snails away, but UC IPM says there is no clear evidence that they do. You should use the tried-and-true ways above instead.

6. Switch To Drip Irrigation

For another good way to keep slugs and snails off your plants, water them from above with a soaker hose or a drip irrigation system. This way, water won’t pool on the leaves. It’s also important when you drink. If you want to avoid slugs in the evening, always water your plants in the morning. If you want to keep your yard dry, you can also grow plants that can handle not getting much water.

7. Grow Plants They Don’t Like

Little garden pests like slugs and snails will eat almost anything, but their favorite foods are basil, beans, cabbage, hostas, leafy veggies, dahlias, marigolds, and strawberries. If you grow plants that slugs and snails won’t eat, you can get rid of them from parts of your garden where they are a big problem.

In general, they will stay away from plants whose leaves smell strong (like lavender, rosemary, and sage), most woody plants, decorative grasses, and plants whose leaves are leathery, fuzzy, or prickly.

Tip: Plant plants that slugs and snails like, like marigolds, around the edges of your yard to catch them. They will keep slugs away from plants that are weak, making it easy to find and get rid of them.

8. Apply An Organic Slug Bait

Using an organic slug and snail bait in the spring is one of the best ways to start keeping slugs away. These baits are safe for pets, wildlife, and fruits and veggies that are ready to be picked.

Most of these products have iron phosphate in them, which is a plant food that naturally happens in soil. They will still work after it rains or when you water, so you don’t have to keep applying them.

Chemical slug pellets or traps that contain metaldehyde should not be used. This poison can be harmful to both people and animals if they eat it.

Since snails and slugs are most busy at these times, late afternoon or evening is the best time to put out slug bait.

Rabbits are very cute animals, probably one of the cutest pets we have. For people who aren’t into growing crops, rabbits are cute pets that have super-cute kittens and are great company.

But people who work with their hands see bunnies as more than just cute animals. Being honest, they see rabbits as enemies or, to put it another way, killers.

This animal with long ears eats all kinds of fresh plants, whether they are annuals, biennials, perennials, berries, or woody plants. There are actually so many strange plants that rabbits like that there is almost certainly one in your yard that they don’t like.

You need a long-term way to get rid of these yard-destroying animals because you don’t want them to come back. These are some good ways to get rid of rabbits in your yard that will be talked about in this piece.

What Do Rabbits Droppings Look Like?

Rabbit droppings are small particle about the size of a pea or garbanzo bean. Most of the time, they’re black, dark brown, medium green, or dark green. They come in different colors depending on what the rabbit eats, and you can find them in piles or spread out in the yard.

Where Are Rabbits Usually Found?

Cottontail rabbits live in the middle and eastern parts of the United States. They can also be found in southern Canada and South America. Their favorite places to hide are tall grass and bushes. They also like to live in holes or dens in the ground.

Types of Rabbits

There are different kinds of rabbits, like hares and pikas. The U.S. does have some rabbits that will scare people in their gardens, but most of them are cottontail rabbits. They are brown and gray, and the fur around their necks and shoulders is a dark brown color. Their ears are only a few inches long, and they can grow to be 14 to 19 inches long.

Cottontail rabbits like herbs, leaves, and soft grasses. They love peas, beans, berries, and greens, so this makes them the perfect enemy for gardeners.

A cottontail rabbit can have up to 30 litters in its lifetime, with up to 12 bunnies in each litter. They can start having babies at five to six months old, so it doesn’t take long for an invasion to start.

What Are The Signs That You Have A Rabbit Infestation?

If there are a lot of rabbits in a yard, there are some clear signs. The rabbits’ droppings and fur are all over the yard, and the garden crop is ruined (though one or two rabbits can do a lot of damage by themselves). There are also signs of digging around plants and flower beds.

The most worrying thing about rabbits is their dens, not the plants they eat. In a yard, these holes can get pretty big and are dangerous because people or pets can easily get hurt if they step in them.

What Damage Can Rabbits Cause To Your Home?

Most of the time, rabbits don’t want to get into a house and make it their home. It is important to remember, though, that rabbits can carry diseases that can kill, like tularemia, which is also known as rabbit fever. Because of this, it’s important to keep them outside of the house and under control in the garden.

How To Stop Rabbits From Eating Plants

Keeping bunnies from eating your food is easy if you use a few different methods. These tips will help you beat the bunnies at their own game.

1. Exclude them. In order to avoid rabbit damage, this is the best method. When it comes to rabbit control, fencing is the best option. For best results, use a 1/4- or 1/2-inch mesh at a height of at least two feet.

To trick rabbits that dig, bury the sides six inches and bend the bottom of the fence outward (underground).

Use hardware cloth, zip ties, and PVC pipe to make a crop cage for raised beds. In the winter, put a cylinder of hardware cloth or mesh fence around the stems of woody plants to keep rabbits from chewing on them.

If you want to keep rabbits from getting to stems, put the fence at least two inches away from them. If you live in a place that gets a lot of snow, make your fence bigger so rabbits that are standing on a snowdrift can’t get over to your plants to nibble on them.

2. Limit hiding places. They need places to hide from animals that might hurt them. Think like a bunny and look around your yard. Look for things that rabbits could hide in, like tall grass, a pile of wood or brush, or a shed or deck that doesn’t have anything blocking them from going under it.

3. Scare them. One of the best ways to keep rabbits away is to let your dog run free in your yard. A fake owl, an aluminum pie pan, or flashing lights may scare the rabbits for a while, but once they learn they’re not really dangerous, they stop paying attention to them.

4. Repel them. Rabbit repellents work by either giving off a smell that rabbits don’t like, like garlic or dried blood, or by making plants taste bad, like hot pepper or dried blood sprays. Most of the time, repellents with flavors work better. Just make sure you carefully follow the directions, especially when it comes to putting it on again after it rains. Be careful when you spray veggies; you don’t want to ruin the crop. You might not be able to keep rabbits away when food is scarce because they will eat anything.

5. Go with plants that rabbits can’t eat. Put together an area with plants that rabbits don’t like. Lamb’s ears, herbs, plants in the onion family (allium, leek), cleome, Russian sage, and rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan) are on this list.

6. Let weeds grow. Most people work hard to get rid of plants like clover and violets from their fields and flower beds because rabbits love them. There should be a few places for these plants to grow. Rabbits will eat them before they get to your prize petunias.

7. Help predators do their job. Owls, foxes, snakes, and birds are just a few of the animals that naturally eat rabbits. If you take care of your yard so that animals like these feel welcome, they’ll hunt rabbits as a thank you.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What Smells Will Keep Rabbits Away?

Some smells can keep rabbits away. It is clear that they don’t like chives, onions, geraniums, predator pee, sulfur, blood meal, garlic, vinegar, or chili powder.

How Do You Keep Rabbits Off Your Property?

It’s not possible to keep rabbits out of the yard completely, but there are things that can be done to make it less appealing. To begin, cut the grass short and shape the bushes. You could also use owl decoys, predator pee, and the other things on this list to scare them away.

What Does It Mean When A Rabbit Hangs Around Your House?

Rabbits are thought to bring good luck, fertility, creativity, and long life in some countries. Because of this, a lot of people would rather get rid of them in a gentle way.

Even though Bermuda grass is one of the easiest plants to grow, it might be hard to get it to grow in the shade. Bermuda is not a grass that does well in shade. Bermuda grass might not grow well or at all if there are trees or buildings in your yard that block the sun.

Bermuda grass can grow a beautiful lawn, but it needs at least six hours of sunshine each day. How do you grow Bermuda grass when it’s not sunny?

Even though Bermuda grass is known for being one of the toughest grasses to grow, it doesn’t do well in the shade. Most of the time, it needs hours of sunlight. It starts to thin if it doesn’t get enough sun.

In the shade, only hybrid Bermuda grass can grow without being hurt. The grass is grown in a lab, which gives it traits that wild grass doesn’t have. So, if you want to learn how to make this grass grow well in shade, you need to find a hybrid or better version of it.

Is Bermuda Grass Shade Tolerant?

Bermuda grass can definitely grow in a lot of different places. It will grow too big to handle and go beyond your lawn. The line is drawn under the shade. The grass doesn’t do well in the shade, which makes the field not very good.

Factors Affecting Bermuda Grass Shade Tolerance

These things make it harder for Bermuda grass to grow in the shade because they lower its tolerance for shade.

Genetics And Variety

Changing genes is an important part of studying how genes work. Researchers in the field of grass breeding have learned how to make Bermuda grass and other types of grass better. Changing the genes of Bermuda grass makes it better at growing in shade.

Soil And Nutrient Conditions

The pH of the soil should be between 6 and 7 for Bermuda grass to grow well. It can also grow in slightly acidic soil. Nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus are three important nutrients that the grass needs. These chemicals can be found in most soils.

Light Intensity And Duration

It does best where it gets direct sunlight and doesn’t get too wet. For regular Bermuda grass to grow well, it needs at least 6 hours of direct sunshine. Because it grows best in warm weather, the grass does well in the southern United States.

Temperature And Humidity

Bermuda grass usually stays between 95° and 100°F during the day. It is important for the roots, stolons, and rhizomes to grow in earth that is warmer than 65°F.

Competition From Other Plants

Bermuda grass is a species that likes to compete. Making a cover over its competitors, it chokes them. In more than 80 countries, the grass is so common that it is called a weed. It’s also not easy to get rid of Bermuda grass.

How Do I Grow Bermuda Grass In Shade?

It can be hard to grow grass under a roof or shade. Even if it gets enough water, it will still look thin and patchy. If you want to grow Bermuda grass in the shade, read these tips.

Choose A Shade-Tolerant Variety Of Bermuda Grass

It’s possible to get Bermuda grass in different shades. It grows well in shady places and has thin leaves. It has finer leaves and more of them to help it take in less sunlight. You should pick this type if you want to grow it in the shade.

Prepare The Soil With Proper Drainage And Nutrients

Even though Bermuda grass does well in dry, sandy soil, you should make sure the soil has good drainage and nutrients before putting the seeds. To help plants grow in a healthy way, make sure you use the right fertilizer.

Prune Or Remove Nearby Trees And Shrubs That Block Sunlight

You can choose to shape the trees or cut some of them down based on their height and how wide their branches are. The second option should only be used as a last measure; we suggest pruning instead. This will help the sunshine get through better.

Use reflective mulch to make more light bounce off of things and lower heat stress.
Using reflective dirt on your Bermuda grass will help it reflect more light and handle the heat better. The light from this gives your plant the energy it needs to grow.

Pest And Disease Control

To keep your Bermuda grass healthy, you should get rid of bugs and other pests. Bugs and grass mites eat the leaves and roots. Bugs like grub works, cutworms, armyworms, billbugs, fire ants, and Bermuda grass mites are most likely to eat your grass.

Aeration And Over-seeding

By letting air into the Bermuda grass once or twice a year, you can help the roots get healthier. The roots are good because they help the grass take in water and nutrients. It’s good to fill in the deep holes in your Bermuda grass with new grass after aerating it. Adding more seeds will help your Bermuda grass stay thick, green, and healthy.

Conclusion

Eventually, Bermuda grass, which is known for its strong growth, might have trouble in shaded areas because it likes sunshine. Still, you can get good at Bermuda grass shade tolerance by choosing hybrid types that are specifically made to handle shade. For the best growth, it’s important to think about a lot of different things and use good tactics.

FAQs

Is Bermuda Grass Shade-Tolerant?

Bermuda grass doesn’t usually do well in shade. For best growth, it needs a lot of sunshine, usually about six hours a day. But there are hybrid varieties that were especially bred to do well in shade.

What Factors Affect Bermuda Grass Shade Tolerance?

Genetics and variety, soil and nutrient conditions, light intensity and length, temperature and humidity, and competition from other plants are some of the things that affect how well Bermuda grass can handle shade.

How Can I Grow Bermuda Grass In The Shade?

To grow Bermuda grass in the shade, you should pick a variety that can handle it, make sure the soil drains well and has the right nutrients, prune or remove nearby trees to let more light in, use reflective mulch to make more light bounce off of the ground, take steps to control pests and diseases, and aerate and overseed the grass.

If everything goes as planned, most types of grass seeds will start to grow about 8 to 10 days after they are first planted. After 6 to 8 weeks, the grass will be fully established and cover the whole yard, leaving no gaps. The question you should really be asking is not “How long does it take for grass seed to grow?” but “How can I sow grass seed?” so that your lawn grows as well as it can. You’ll be glad to know that this book is here to help you!

If the conditions for growing grass seeds are right, your grass should be ready to use around 6 to 8 weeks. At that point, you can walk, play, and enjoy it as much as you want. You can plan and make time for your prep work if you know how long grass seed takes to grow.

Factors That Affect How Long It Takes Grass To Grow

When you doubt yourself and ask, “Really, how long does it take for grass to grow?” Just remember a few things that will change the process:

Type Of Grass Seed

Of course, the type of grass seed you use will determine how long it takes to grow. Most of the grass seed we use here in Northeast Ohio is for “cool-season” plants. The best temperature for that kind of grass seed is between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bluegrass, bentgrass, ryegrass, and fescue are some of the most popular cool-season grasses in Northeast Ohio.

Early spring or fall are the best times to plant cool-season grasses because the plants won’t have to deal with the often too hot and dry conditions of summer.

Germination

How long it takes for grass seeds to sprout is another factor in how long it takes for grass to grow. A seed grows into a plant through a process called germination. Different kinds of grass seeds take different amounts of time to sprout, or grow from a seed.

• Ryegrass: It takes ryegrass seeds 5–10 days to grow.
• Fescue: It takes fescue seeds 7–14 days to grow.
• Bentgrass: It takes 10 to 14 days for bentgrass seeds to grow.
• Kentucky Bluegrass: Kentucky Bluegrass seeds usually grow in 14-30 days

Weather

How long it takes for grass to grow can be affected by the weather. Cooler than usual temps and too much water from heavy spring rains are two of the most common things that slow down grass growth.

Before planting, it’s a good idea to check the long-term weather. You can’t always avoid heavy rain or temperatures that are cooler than usual.

As we already said, cool-season grass grows best in Northern Ohio when it is between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant when it’s this hot, you might get better results.

Soil Preparation And Conditions

In addition to good weather, keep an eye on the soil conditions of your grass. The pH of the soil can change how long it takes for grass to grow. Cool-season grasses do best in soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.2.

Water the dirt a few days before you plant grass seed to make sure it gets the right amount of water. Soak the ground up to six to eight inches deep. If the earth isn’t already wet from rain, water your grass seed once or twice a day after planting.

Don’t forget to keep an eye out for bugs in the yard. These animals can hurt the health and growth of grass. To help your grass grow faster, keep hungry bugs and other pests away from grass seed that is still soft.

Help With Growing New Grass From Grass Seed

If you want to make it take longer for grass seed to grow, think about the things above and do what you can to make the best conditions.

Plant your favorite type of grass seed when the weather is warm. If you need help, ask for it. Keep the soil damp but not soaked.

How To Speed Up Grass Seed Germination?

It can be fun to plant grass seeds to change the way your yard looks. But sometimes it takes longer than people are willing to wait to see effects. There are a few different ways to speed up the time it takes for grass seeds to sprout.

• Pre-germinate your seeds: Soak your grass seeds in water to make them grow and start the germination process before you plant them in the ground. This is called “pre-germination.” It is best to germinate seed mixes ahead of time because they can all sprout at different rates. When you put the seeds, they will sprout more evenly if you soak and pre-germinate them first.
• Till and amend your soil: Till up the grass to a depth of 6 inches and add soil or peat moss to the area. You can help your grass seeds grow faster by adding a particular type of fertilizer made for lawns. With fertilizers, you can help the roots and leaves of your grass grow, which will make it look better and make it stronger.
• Toilet paper grass: crushed toilet paper, flour, water, grass seeds, and fertilizer can be mixed together to make a slurry. The nutrients in the fertilizer can help the grass seeds grow faster and last longer. Make a layer of the sludge about ½ inch thick on the surface where you want to grow. The slurry helps the seeds stay in contact with the soil, which is useful when the ground isn’t level.

Conclusion

So, you planted your lawn in the best weather, in the best seedbed, with the best seed and the best mix for what you need. What else can you do to make sure it grows quickly? To help your lawn grow, you could make sure it gets watered properly.

After you plant grass seed, you should deeply water your lawn every day for the first few weeks. It will soon start to sprout little green shoots all over your yard if you don’t water it when it rains.

FAQ’s

Will Grass Seed Germinate On Top Of Soil?

Grass seed will grow on top of dirt, yes. When you plant grass seeds, it’s best to do it shallowly so they can’t get stuck in raised areas. If you care for your seeds properly and till the earth and spread the seeds out evenly with a rake, they will have a better chance of sprouting.

How Quickly Does Grass Seed Dry Out?

If you don’t water grass seed in warm weather, it can dry out in just one day. For sure, your grass will grow past the seed stage, keep the grass seed wet during the germination stage.

This will help the grass seeds stay moist. Watering them early in the day and again after the hottest part of the day can also help.

How To Pre-Germinate Grass Seed?

To get grass seed ready to germinate, you must first soak the grass to break up its top layer. If you change the water every twelve hours, this can go on for up to five days. If you don’t have time, you can stop after three days. After letting the grass seeds soak, you can put them in the yard on tilled soil that drains well. During this time, mist or gently water the seeds every day to keep them wet. Most types of grass seed should sprout after two weeks. If a mix of seeds are used, they should all sprout around the same time because they were soaked.

Will Grass Seed Grow If I Just Throw It Down?

If you just throw grass seed on the ground or dirt, it probably won’t grow well because the seeds won’t get enough care or shade. The best results will come from tilled, well-fertilized soil for growing grass. It is worth the work to have a beautiful outdoor place.

How Long Does It Take For Grass Seed To Germinate In October?

If it’s a warm-season grass, it can take anywhere from two to four weeks for grass to grow in October. In the cooler months of late fall, cool-season plants can still sprout and grow roots, but you might not see their full potential until spring.

How Long For Grass Seed To Grow 3 Inches?

Under ideal conditions, it can take up to 30 days to see grass grow any length, possibly up to 3 inches. Then you might ask, “How fast does grass grow?” Depending on the type, most established grass grows between 2 and 6 inches per month. This means that grass grown from seeds will probably take at least a month to reach 3 inches in height, since it needs to use all of its energy to grow in the germination and elongation stages.

If your philodendron turns yellow, it means something is problematic. But if you know why it can happen, you can get the plant to grow well again in your home.

The best indoor plants can change the look of rooms with their color and shape, bringing the beauty of nature inside. Philodendrons are one example of an easy plant to take care of, but it’s still important to do it right to keep them healthy.

People often ask, “Why is my philodendron turning yellow?” Here are some answers from experts, along with what you can do to fix each problem.

Moisture

Philodendron plants usually lose their leaves because the dirt is too wet, especially when it rains too much. Fill the pot with water only when the top quarter of the soil is dry. The soil shouldn’t be wet, but it should be damp. During the winter, you can let your plant dry out a bit more between waterings. Just make sure to keep misting it or use a rock tray to add more humidity.

Make sure that when you water your Philodendron, there is enough water to flow from the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot to the saucer. It is very important to get rid of any extra water in the saucer and keep your plant from sitting in water. Your Philodendron won’t do well with “wet feet,” which makes the roots rot and kills the plant in the end.

It is important to keep the dirt consistently moist when you are taking care of a Philodendron. If you water your Philodendron at the wrong time, the soil can go from being bone dry to wet, which can stress the plant and turn it yellow.

Your Humidity Level

When the soil and humidity are low, the leaves droop and turn brown around the edges. Later, the leaves turn yellow all the way through. If you mist your Philodendron’s leaves a lot, the humidity will rise.

Improper Light

The best place for philodendrons to grow is in bright, well-drained sunshine. If plants are in full sunlight for too long, they will burn. Aphids can grow in places with little light, but their growth will be slower. If put somewhere with very little light, leaves may turn yellow.

Aging

Every once in a while, the leaves of most plants will slowly turn yellow. It happens when they get rid of old growth to focus on putting out new leaves, and sometimes the very young new leaves just don’t do well. This is not a sign of a bigger health problem; it’s just how plants normally act.

If your Philodendron is getting the right care and looks healthy generally, but some of its leaves are turning yellow, you can easily remove them by pulling them off gently or cutting them off with clean, sharp scissors or shears.

Overwatering: Philodendrons can get too much water, and one of the most common signs is leaves that turn yellow. You shouldn’t water these plants at set times. Instead, you should only water them when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch.

To see how wet your plant is, pull back some of its colorful moss and stick your finger two inches into the soil. It’s time to water the plant if the soil is dry. But don’t do it if it’s still wet!

Pests

Insects are more likely to attack a Philodendron that is weak or worried. Bugs that feed on sap, like spider mites, can dry out your plant. This trouble shows up quickly as leaflets and fronds turn yellow. Scale, mealybugs, and spider mites are common pests that live inside.

If you don’t get rid of these little bugs right away, they will keep coming back and moving along the fronds and into cracks and crevices. The insects’ sharp mouths wear down your plant and make it turn yellow faster, especially if your Philodendron is already sick from not getting enough light, nutrients, or water in the soil.

Some Yellowing Is Natural

Does your Philodendron send out new leaves? It’s normal for older leaves, especially those at the base of the plant, to turn yellow while new leaves grow on top of them. The plant gets rid of its old leaves and starts to grow new ones.

If you see raised ridges on your grass that are 3 to 5 inches high and small volcanoes of soil here and there, there is a mole nearby. These small animals can quickly do a lot of damage because the plants they dig through are destroyed. They destroy roots as they dig, which is why the ridges that show where their burrows are quickly turn brown.

Mole holes are good because they let air into the dirt and eat harmful bugs at the same time. Get rid of moles in your yard before they do a lot of damage, and don’t let them come back.

What Are Moles?

Moles are about 6 to 8 inches long and live in burrows where they eat bugs. They are usually brown to gray, and their snouts are thin and smooth. Their fur hides their small eyes and ears, and their front feet are big and spade-shaped, which helps them dig well.

There are seven kinds of moles in the US. The common or eastern mole, the hairy-tailed mole, the star-nosed mole, and the shrew mole are some of them. The eastern mole eats a lot. Every day, it can eat 70–80% of its body weight in bugs.

Moles aren’t always a bad thing to have around. If you don’t mind their holes, they will eat many bugs and help the dirt breathe. Since they are insectivores, they use their network of tunnels below ground all year, often only going through each one once, to look for earthworms, grubs, and other insects to eat.

It’s clear, though, why moles are a real pain for people who want their lawns to look nice. The moles’ tunnels make slopes and small hills all over the place, which can really mess up the look of your yard.

There is a common myth about moles that they eat plant roots. This is not true, but they can still damage your plants’ roots while they’re hunting for bugs.

Life Cycle of a Mole

Moles live alone and only get along with other animals when it’s time to mate. The breeding season is in the spring, from early February to late March, based on where you live. After being pregnant for 4 to 6 weeks, the single litter typically has 3 to 5 hairless pups. The young can take care of themselves by the middle of summer.

The next growth season is when females become sexually mature.

Are Moles Dangerous?

Moles are usually safe for people because we don’t come into touch with them very often. They do, however, sometimes carry bugs like fleas and ticks, and very rarely, they have also been found to carry rabies.

Why Are Moles A Pest?

Moles can be very annoying and make a lot of mess if they get into your yard or golf course. It takes them no time at all to make a complicated tunnel system that goes to their den because they can dig up to 4 meters an hour.

Moles are a problem because they like to live underground in dry, dark places but hunt where the soil is wet and full of worms and grubs. This means that they upset the surface and leave mounds of soil all over the place.

Top 3 Causes Of Moles

A mole lives and spends its whole life in its tunnel system. Because of this, they look for certain things to make their perfect world. These are what we need to look at:

1. Access To Food

A mole will often eat a lot. As we already said, some moles can eat every day up to 70–80% of their own body weight in bugs. They eat white grubs, beetles, earthworms, and bug larvae, among other things.

Moles are more likely to dig their own holes when there are lots of bugs around to eat.

2. Overwatering

Moles are usually active during the day and like to live in damp dirt because it helps them keep their body temperature stable. So, if you’ve been watering your garden too much, mice might be more interested in it. This is very important if the land around you is dry.

3. Certain Landscaping Elements

The moles’ main paths usually go along fence rows, walks, and other man-made edges in the yard. Moles also dig holes under trees and bushes to get to the bugs that live in the roots of those plants.

3 Signs You Have Moles In Your Yard

Are you afraid you have a mole problem? Moles may cause damage that is similar to that of voles, rats, or mice, but there are some important differences in how they act and what damage they do.

These are the three most important signs that moles are in your yard:

1. Molehills

Seeing molehills is one of the best ways to tell if you have moles. Moles live almost their whole lives in tunnels that they dig themselves. These tunnels can be as shallow as a few inches or as deep as 25 inches or more.

When loose dirt is pushed up a shaft to the surface at the tunnel opening, it makes a molehill.

2. Dead Grass

Have you noticed that some of the grass in your yard is dying? It could be a sign of a mole problem.

This is because when moles dig their tunnels, they often damage the grass roots nearby, killing the plants at the ground level.

3. Mounds That Are Far Apart

You can spot moles by their mounds, but gophers do the same thing. One big difference is that molehills are usually six feet apart, while gopher mounds are generally only three feet apart.

9 Best Home Remedies To Get Rid Of Moles

If moles are bothering you, there are many things you can do at home that will help. These are what we need to look at:

1. Trapping

Most people agree that this is the best and most reliable way to get rid of moles that are a bother. Mole traps should be set up in the early spring, when tunnels are first seen, or after the first rains of fall.

Find out which paths are being used before you set traps. You can find these by leveling the run, marking the spot, and waiting a day or two to see if the tunnel rises again.

Mole traps work well because they take advantage of the mole’s natural urge to clear out a hole that is blocked.

2. Baiting

Use of poison to kill moles while they are in their dens is another way to get rid of them. To get rid of moles, people often use baits that look like worms or grubs. Mole rats are drawn to it, and they die 12 to 24 hours after eating them.

This isn’t a good way to use often because your pets could get sick if they eat them by accident. Also, it’s not safe for kids.

3. Eliminating Their Food Source

Moles eat a lot of insects that live in the ground, like Japanese beetle grubs, when they are in fields. You can get rid of these pests with Milky Spore and/or beneficial nematodes, which will usually make them less active when they’re tunneling or eating.

If your soil is healthy, moles may still eat earthworms after the grubs are gone. To keep these bugs from eating your food, use a variety of ways to keep them away.

4. Applying Repellents

Animals that like to dig will stay away from lawns, gardens, and other planting places that contain natural castor oil. Because the castor oil will make their stomachs upset, they won’t want to live in your yard as much.

For this reason, use castor oil when caves or cone-shaped mounds show up in the ground from early spring to late fall.

You can also use tobacco, coffee grounds, red pepper, cayenne pepper, or other natural ingredients to keep moles away.

5. Digging A Trench For A Barrier

Make a hole that is about two feet deep and six inches wide. Burrowing pests won’t be able to get into yard areas if you fill it with rocks or line it with wire.

While this choice will take some time, it will keep other ones from digging their way into your yard.

6. Using Plants As Barriers

Moles don’t like the strong smells of flowers, marigolds, and other allium plants.

Planting these species along the edges of your yard will make a natural wall, or you can put them in raised beds to protect their roots.

7. Using Ultrasonic Devices

The Sonic Mole Chaser doesn’t play music. Instead, it sends out a sound pulse that goes deep into the ground and drives mice crazy.

Pets will be fine, but moles find the noise annoying and leave for areas with less noise. It’s like playing “Heavy Metal” for your grandma who loves Lawrence Welk.

8. Stimulating Drought Conditions

Mole prefers soft, wet ground. To make your yard less appealing to moles, don’t water it too much. That’s not true. A lot of people think that our lawns need a lot of water to stay nice and green.

Your plants only need an inch of water a week to stay healthy and look good. But that would make the moles feel like they are in a “drought,” which would make your lawn less appealing to them.

It will also stop earthworms from moving around, which will help control their food source at the same time. The only problem is that this is a long-term fix that won’t help with any moles you may already have.

9. Keeping Your Lawn Tidy

Because moles feel safer when they’re hidden, if you keep your yard clean, they won’t have as many places to hide.

Keep your lawn mowed and flower beds well-kept to do this. Get rid of any stacks of wood or trash you may have.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will Moles Eventually Leave On Their Own?

Moles will only go on their own when they can’t find any more food. It’s likely that they’ll stay unless the homeowner does something.

What’S The Best Way To Repair Mole Damage To Your Yard?

You can use a yard roller or your feet to flatten the tunnels moles dig in the ground if you still have them. You can also dig their burrows out. Once they are gone, fill the holes with dirt and plant seeds or sod to make new grass grow.

Do Home Remedies Like Vinegar Work To Get Rid Of Moles?

Some people have had success by spraying the holes and tubes with a mixture of one part vinegar to three parts water. They do this every few days. When you use vinegar, be careful because it can kill plants nearby.

Is It Ok To Leave Moles In Your Yard?

They leave ugly holes and weak spots in the yard, but they also do some good things. Bugs, termites, ants, and snails are some of the things they eat. They also open up the earth and add nutrients to it.

Cherry Ong has been sharing with us the little side-yard garden in her Richmond, British Columbia, garden. She calls the space the Fern Fairway, and she’s shown us how it looks during the warmer months of the year (The Fern Fairway in Summer). Today she’s sharing how it looks in winter.

Last month I wanted to spend some time gardening, so the side yard was tidied up and some winter cheer added.

For the first trough, I set aside all deciduous ferns for their well-earned winter rest and grouped together some evergreen ones, then tucked in metal fronds and stems from nearby Leucothoe plus a couple of stems of rose hips for color and the birds.

I loved how it turned out. It’ll help keep my spirits up in the winter.

For the other trough, I used foraged greenery and a few colored and textured elements for some color and height. I deconstructed and loosened an inexpensive grapevine wreath and hung it on the fence for added interest.

I moved fuchsias to a more sheltered location for the hummingbirds and put up pots with Gaultheria (Zones 3–8) and licorice fern (Polypodium glycyrrhiza, Zones 5–8) with sprigs of Skimmia (Zones 6–8) from the garden to fill the gaps.

The sprigs will last a long time in the cool winter weather and look like they are growing out of the pot.

The gardener’s wreath that hangs this season holds a special memory for me!

It’s always good to be out in the garden. Cheers!

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

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The North Downs in Kent is home to the bee orchid, a member of the genus Ophrys, which mimics a bee to lure insects for pollination. The scent from the lip of the flower attracts the insect and leads to pseudo-copulation, resulting in pollination.

The lake spider orchid, Ophrys fuciflora, is even rarer and relies on insects for pollination, making it a super plant to find.

Botanist Fred Rumsey searches for flowers that go to extreme lengths to lure pollinating insects. He finds the bee orchid, Ophrys apifera, and its close relative the late spider orchid, Ophrys fuciflora.

I read this article this morning by Charles Hugh Smith – lot of truth here:

“What changed in the economy is now nobody can afford to get by on working-class wages because there’s no longer any bargains.

The economy has changed in many ways, and it’s difficult to track the glacial movements over decades. One change that few seem to recognize or discuss is the disappearance of bargains: cheap rent, cheap meals at hole-in-the-wall restaurants, cheap transport, cheap travel, cheap services–all gone.

Back in the day, even stupidly expensive cities like San Francisco had working-class districts with cheap rent and cheap eats. One reason the hippie movement arose in San Francisco was the availability of cheap places to rent in what many would dismiss as rundown slums or ghettos. There were plenty of working-class hole-in-the-wall restaurants and cafes that served cheap plates of spaghetti, turkey legs and other affordable fare.

The working-class districts in cities have long been gentrified, or more recently, abandoned to homeless encampments. Gentrification eliminates cheap rents, as the soaring valuations of real estate leads the new owners to charge high rents in order to pay their lofty mortgages.

Affordable apartments disappear, and so do affordable small commercial / retail spaces for hole-in-the-wall bookstores (remember when these were commonplace?), cafes, odd little niche retailers, and low-cost services (shoe repair, etc.)

The extermination of low-cost commercial space eliminated many services which are no longer available, a trend that feeds the “waste is growth” Landfill Economy: there’s nobody left to repair anything or move second-hand goods, so everything that once could have been repaired or re-used is tossed in the landfill, replaced by a shoddy, crapified replacement product of the global economy.

One person’s affordable housing is another person’s slum or ghetto. Urban Renewal destroyed affordable housing and vibrant ethnic neighborhoods, in the name of “improvement” which ended up displacing those who could no longer afford soaring rents.

The end result is many people are spending half or 2/3 of after-tax earnings on rent. Personally, I was only able to work my way through college because there were still nooks and crannies of low-rent dives and rooming houses, and low-cost hole-in-the-wall restaurants and cafes, day-old baked goods outlets, etc.

Lowering the cost of credit for corporations, financiers and the wealthy created unprecedented competition for places to invest all this nearly free money, and real estate has long been a favored market for those seeking to increase income and appreciation by gentrifying low-cost properties.

The net result is nobody can afford to start a business because rents, insurance, fees, utilities and regulatory compliance are all unaffordable, And so downtowns and once vibrant retail streets are half-empty or abandoned. All the little cafes, services, second-hand stores are all gone because these are inherently low-margin businesses that can’t afford rent in the thousands per month.

Something else changed, too: the proprietors who operated these small, affordable businesses are gone. The proprietors could charge affordable rates for their services because their own cost of living was low. Once the cost of living skyrocketed, they could no longer afford to get by on the meager earnings of their affordable enterprise. So they sold their building, or retired and moved out of the city to cheaper regions.

Who’s left who wants to work the long hours needed to operate small enterprises, and rely on uncertain / low net income? Very few people are willing to take these risks, and few can afford to take these risks.”

The downtowns around us are mostly dead. Even fast food is expensive now. The price of cattle panels has almost doubled. The stuff you do buy is mostly junk and breaks quickly.

It’s going to get worse, too. Learn to grow food.

Margot Navarre is sharing her earliest blooms with us today. She gardens in Bellevue, Washington, and we’ve visited her garden before; check out Summer in Margot’s Garden if you want to see what it looks like in the height of summer. But right now, Margot is celebrating a favorite group of plants: snowdrops.

Drifts of snowdrops in full bloom, so cheerful and tough, mark the end of each winter. To the right, ‘Chief Joseph’ lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta ‘Chief Joseph’, Zones 5–8) provides bright yellow needles to add to the snowdrop display. The pine holds this bright color through the winter, then shifts to green through the summer months.

Galanthus ‘Primrose Warburg’ (Zones 3–8) has a long-lasting bloom time but hasn’t been prolific in our garden. On this variety, the green ovary and markings on the petals have shifted to yellow, giving extra color and beauty.

The snowdrop variety ‘Wasp’ is a hybrid discovered by Veronica Cross at Sutton Court in Herefordshire in 1995. A vigorous grower with long white petals, it stands out in the garden.

Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridspice’ (Zones 3–8) shows off nicely in a simple vase.

We designed and added a dry-stacked retaining wall to make more room for plants and extra special snowdrops. This is a picture from September.

And here’s the new bed in January. We planted a dwarf camellia, daphnes, primroses, cyclamen, ferns, a full-moon maple, and bulbs. We will continue to add speciality snowdrops to the new garden space.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Growing peas in your home garden is an easy way to enjoy fresh produce earlier than most other vegetables.

However, to enjoy thriving, productive plants, it’s important to first learn how to care for them correctly.

This detailed guide to growing peas is a walkthrough for gardeners of all skill levels. Learn their sun, soil, and water requirements, plus get tips on pests, harvesting, and much more.

Quick Pea Plant Care Overview

Scientific name:	Pisum sativum
Classification:	Vegetable
Common names:	English peas, shelling peas, snow peas, snap peas
Hardiness:	Annual
Temperature:	40-85°F (4.4-29.4°C)
Flowers:	White, pink, purple, early spring
Light:	Full sun to part shade
Water:	Keep soil evenly moist, don’t overwater
Humidity:	Average
Fertilizer:	Balanced vegetable fertilizer, early spring
Soil:	Rich, fertile, well-draining
Common pests:	Slugs, snails, aphids, flea beetles

Information About Peas

Peas (Pisum sativum) are the edible seeds of a type of vegetable plant that produces a pod. They’re legumes that are native to the Middle East, and are now grown worldwide.

They’re cold-hardy annuals, and the size of the plants can range anywhere between 1’ tall bushes to 9’ long vines.

Pea plants produce small white, pink, or purple flowers that form pods when pollinated. They’re an easy-to-grow, low-maintenance crop that will continue to produce until the summer heat kicks in.

Different Types

There are 3 main types of Pisum sativum: shelling, snow, and snap peas. Within each of these types there are also two different growth habits – bush and vining.

Bush hybrids are compact and ideal for small spaces or containers. Vining plants climb and require the support of a trellis as they grow.

• Shelling – These varieties, like Wando, Green Arrow, or Lincoln have inedible pods, and you need to remove the peas and cook them before you can eat them.
• Snow – This one has thin pods with tiny peas inside, and you can eat them raw without cooking or shelling. Common varieties include Dwarf Grey, Snowbird and Oregon Giant.
• Snap – The edible pods on this type are crisp and contain large, sweet peas that don’t require cooking. Try Sugar Snap, Early Snap, or Super Daddy.

How Do Peas Grow?

Individual pea pods grow from self-pollinating flowers that typically start opening about 4-6 weeks into their life cycle.

Insects, wind, or even a gentle sweep of your finger will pollinate the flowers. After successful pollination, a pod will begin to develop, and it takes only about three weeks until they’re ready to harvest.

The plant will continue blooming, even as it sets pods. Pick the mature ones regularly to encourage the plant to continue producing more.

How To Grow Peas

The first step in growing peas is choosing the best place and time to plant them. My tips below will help you get it right and find the perfect spot.

Where To Grow Peas

The type of pea you want to grow will determine how you choose a location. Bush varieties are great for containers or other small spaces, while vining types require more room to spread out, and a support or structure to climb.

Both will thrive best in the full sun with fertile soil that has good drainage, which makes raised beds a popular option.

When To Plant

You should plant your peas as soon as the ground in your garden is workable in late winter or very early spring, because they like the cold.

The best time is 4-6 weeks before your average last frost date. The ground temperature should be around 60°F, which you can check with a soil thermometer probe.

You can plant them in the autumn if you live somewhere with mild winters. Either way, the root system is shallow, and doesn’t like to be disturbed, so it’s best to sow the seeds directly.

Related Post: How To Save Pea Seeds From Your Garden

Pea Plant Care & Growing Instructions

Now that you know where and when to grow your peas, it’s time to talk about how to care for them. Create their ideal environment to enjoy a flourishing, low-maintenance plant.

Sunlight

Peas prefer full-sun for 6-8 hours a day. Partial shade is okay, but too little light will lead to a less productive plant, and peas that aren’t as sweet.

Full sun can cause wilting if temperatures climb above 85°F (29.4°F), however. Use a shade cloth in the afternoon to protect them from the most intense sunlight.

Water

Water your peas when the top 1-2” of soil is dry. They like consistent moisture, but will develop root rot and mildew if they get too much. A moisture gauge probe is helpful for getting the amount just right.

Irrigate at the base of the plant to prevent water and soil from splashing on the leaves, which can lead to diseases and mold.

Temperature

The ideal temperature range for growing peas is between 40-80°F (4.4-29.4°C). They can survive down to 20°F (-6.6°C) for a short while, but it can inhibit pod formation.

High heat leads to wilting foliage, and prevents flowering or pod production. When temperatures rise above 85°F (29.4°C), the plant will stop growing and eventually die.

Fertilizer

Peas don’t need fertilizer, as long as the soil is healthy. Amend your beds with compost to enrich it, if needed.

You can also feed them once about 6 weeks after planting with a balanced organic option, like fish emulsion or compost tea, or apply a diluted flowering liquid fertilizer.

Soil

The best soil for peas is rich, fertile, and well-draining, with a pH between 6 and 7.5. You can use a pH probe to check it.

They don’t like soggy soil, so amend your garden with plenty of compost to help improve drainage and nutrient levels.

For containerized plants, start with a good-quality general-purpose potting soil and mix in a few handfuls of perlite.

Trellising

Learning how to trellis peas is essential if you’re growing a vining variety. You can use many structures, like a-frames, lean-tos, or cages.

What you choose depends on the size of your plant, so check the tag to see how large it can get. Bush varieties do not need a structure to climb.

Pruning

You don’t need to prune peas regularly, but trimming vining plants when they reach the top of their trellis is useful to control the size.

Use clean, sharp, precision pruners to snip back the vine above a leaf joint. That will encourage more side shoots and pods.

Pest Control Tips

Since peas grow best in the colder months, insects are usually not a huge issue. But flea beetles, snails, slugs, and aphids can occasionally feast on your plants.

Keep the base clean of debris and apply organic bait pellets to help stop ground-dwelling pests. Control the leaf-eaters with a sharp blast of water or an insecticidal soap.

Disease Control Tips

Peas are resistant to many diseases, but they can be affected by Furisurium wilt, mildew, and mold. Look for wilting, yellowing leaves or white, black, or gray growth on the underside of the leaves.

Water at the base of the plant to reduce the risk of soil splashing up or moisture sitting on the leaves, which can spread diseases. You can trim away heavily affected foliage, and use an organic fungicide to prevent or slow the spread.

Related Post: How To Freeze Peas

Tips For Harvesting Peas

Peas will be ready to harvest about 60-70 days after planting. Snap and shelling varieties will have plump, firm, bright pods, but they shouldn’t be hard. Snow varieties are ready when you see that the small peas have formed inside the pods.

It’s best to use snips to cut them off rather than pulling them, or you could accidentally damage the vine. Once they start producing, check back daily because they grow quickly.

Related Post: How To Can Peas

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Growing peas is easy, but no plant is ever problem-free. If you run into one of these more common issues, use my tips in this section to help get your plant back into good health.

Yellow Leaves

Overwatering and disease can cause yellowing pea foliage, but it also naturally occurs at the end of the plant’s life cycle.

Keep the soil moist but not puddled or wet, and water at the bottom to reduce the risk of diseases. 

When temperatures begin to warm up, the leaves will start yellowing. This is simply the plant putting the last of its energy into producing pods instead of foliage as it comes to the end of its growing season.

Brown Leaves

Root rot, lack of nutrients, age, improper watering, and heat are also a common cause of brown leaves.

Keep the soil evenly moist, but never wet or soggy, and add fertilizer if necessary. If it’s getting hotter outside, the plant is probably naturally beginning to die off.

Plant Wilting

High heat, lack of water, and Furisurium wilt are all potential causes of a wilting pea plant.

Use shade cloth to protect plants in the afternoon when it gets above 85°F (29.4°C), and keep the soil evenly moist. If those don’t help, you can try using an organic fungicide to slow or stop the spread of disease.

No Flowers Or Pods

A lack of blossoms or pod development is a sign that something is wrong with the environment. Temperature extremes, lack of water, and nutrient deficiency are the main problems.

It needs to be above 40°F (4.4°C) and below 85°F (29.4°C), anything outside this range will temporarily stall flowering and pod formation.

Make sure the soil never becomes bone dry, especially when your plants are producing. If nothing else is helping, try adding a balanced vegetable or flowering plant food to boost nutrition.

FAQs

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More About Vegetable Gardening

Share your tips for growing peas in the comments section below.