We’ve been very busy in the nursery, preparing plants for sale and propagating new and exciting varieties of edible, medicinal and useful plants.
At Ferdinand VII Plaza (Palafox Market South) every Saturday through Spring
Our “David The Good Plant Nursery” booth will be at the Palafox Market South (in Ferdinand VII Plaza, downtown Pensacola) every Saturday from 9AM to 2PM. That’s right. You can come visit us – and even if you don’t buy any of our amazing plants, I’ll happily answer gardening questions.
Keepers of the Old Ways (Dothan, Alabama) on April 12-13
At this show, I should have the yams for sale that I can’t offer inside of Florida, along with lots of great food forest plants. I’ll also be giving two talks on gardening and creating food forests the easy way. Learn more here.
The Spring Gardening Superclass at Scrubland Farmz on April 20th
This is my intense master class on gardening and food forests at Scrubland Farmz Nursery in Ft. McCoy Florida. We had to bump it from our earlier plan to have it February due to bad weather, but the new date is rain or shine, as we’ll have tents, etc. Learn more and get tickets here.
Plantapalooza at Drew’s Brewery in Pensacola on April 27th
There are at least 60 plant vendors at this event, and we’re excited to join them. I’m likely to come back with as many plants as we bring! Learn more here.
Finally, my friends and family will be running my Palafox booth while I’m in Dothan and Orange Springs, so if you can’t make those events, you can still stop by and get some plants from us in Pensacola any Saturday through the spring.
Thank you for the support. I’m off to the nursery – it’s planting season for everything.
In the spring it is easy to find info on how to fertilize roses. But what are some things you should NOT DO? Here are 10 Things not to do when fertilizing roses. Below you’ll also find a video from rose expert Paul Zimmerman with his fertilizer tips.
10 Things No To DO When Fertilizing Roses
PinPhoto Credit: @PlantCareToday.com (AI)
Don’t Over-fertilize
Avoid the temptation to over-fertilize, thinking more is better. Too much fertilizer can burn the roots, stress the plant, and lead to poor growth and fewer blooms.
Don’t Fertilize Right After Planting
Newly planted roses, especially in soil already prepared with fertilizer, shouldn’t need immediate fertilizing. Allow them to establish before starting a fertilization routine.
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Don’t Ignore Soil Testing
Before you start mixing your own fertilizers, it’s wise to perform a soil test to understand what nutrients your soil really needs. Applying the wrong balance can harm plant health.
Don’t Use Only Synthetic Fertilizers
Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers can deprive roses of the benefits of organic matter. Using well-rotted manure (Steer – Cow) or compost can improve soil structure and provide nutrients more gradually.
Don’t Fertilize During Dormancy
In cooler climates or when roses are dormant, they won’t benefit from fertilizing as they’re not actively growing. Wait until the first signs of new growth appear in spring.
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Don’t Apply Fertilizer to Dry Soil
Applying fertilizer to dry soil can cause root burn. Ensure the soil is moist, or water your roses before applying fertilizer.
Don’t Forget to Water After Fertilizing
Watering after applying granular fertilizers helps to dissolve them and carry the nutrients down to the roots where they’re needed.
Don’t Fertilize Late in the Season
Avoid fertilizing roses late in the growing season. Late fertilization can encourage new growth that won’t have time to harden off before winter, leading to frost damage.
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Don’t Neglect Mulching
While not directly related to fertilizing, failing to mulch after fertilizing can lead to moisture loss and temperature fluctuations that can stress plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Don’t Ignore Manufacturer’s Instructions
If using commercial fertilizers, always follow the manufacturer’s recommended rates and application timings. Over- or under-application can result in poor plant health and blooming.
Fertilizing Tips From Rose Expert Paul Zimmerman
Rosarian expert Paul Zimmerman shares rose fertilizing tips
Rose expert Paul Zimmerman shares his expertise on rose fertilization, along with providing professional tips and techniques for optimal rose health and blooming. Paul gives a simple and effective feeding program for garden roses and other plants. He recommends using three products:
A time-release fertilizer -The time-release fertilizer is applied in the spring
A seaweed-based fertilizer – the seaweed-based fertilizer is used every three weeks
An organic rose food – the organic rose food is applied in late summer.
Overall, the program is easy to follow and provides great results.
It’s fairly easy to recycle plant pots if your municipality is set up for it. And if not, there is still a way you can make sure that your plastic pots have a second life. Here’s everything you need to know about plant pot recycling.
Recycling has turned into quite a process. I find myself asking if things are recycled more often than not.
And with plastic being our top packaging method, we go through a lot of it. But as much as I wish we could toss everything into the recycling bin and give it a new life, that isn’t always the case.
Here’s how you can recycle plant pots and keep just a little bit more plastic out of the landfill!
Coloured plastic pots are still eligible for recycling at most facilities.
What Plastics Can You Recycle?
Containers that can be recycled will have a resin identification code on the plastic. This is depicted as a number surrounded by a triangle. This will tell you what type of plastic an item is made of.
While there are more common numbers for plastic, it doesn’t necessarily mean the item can be recycled. Typically, 1, 2, and 5 plastics are commonly recycled and allowed in most recycling programs.
Those with the number 3, 4, and 6 are somewhat specialty plastics and often need to be dropped off to be recycled as specialty facilities.
Check your plant pot to see if you can identify the number on it to help you determine if it’s recyclable or not.
These same rules apply to seedling trays and cell packs.
How to Recycle Plant Pots
Most plant pots are okay to go in the recycling, including the plastic trays used for seedlings, the plastic nursery containers and pots, and the cell packs smaller plants come in.
Like any containers in your recycling bin, the containers must be clean. Check to make sure the pots are free of soil and plant debris. Give your containers a quick rinse with your garden hose before you place them in your recycling bin.
There may also be stipulations on the size of plant pots for recycling. For instance, where I live in British Columbia, the plant pots can be no larger than 25 litres.
When in doubt, look up your municipalities local recycling regulations. They’ll tell you directly if they recycle plant pots or will list out the types of plastics they accept.
Larger pots may not be allowed in curbside recycling programs.
Where Can I Recycle My Plastic Plant Pots?
Most plastic plant pots can be placed directly in the curbside recycling program that most cities or municipalities have.
If you don’t have a curbside recycling program, you can take these containers to a local recycling depot. Most should offer a free drop-off.
My province, BC, has a great resource called Recyclepedia where it allows me to input what I’m recycling and where I am to help me find a drop off zone. Your city or municipality may have a similar resource. Just Google the recycling rules of your town or city!
If you have a large collection, many small nurseries will happily take them back and reuse them if they’re in good condition. Call your local nursery and ask if they’d accept plastic pots.
While I grow many plants from seed, I still end up with some new plastic pots every gardening season. Don’t we all!
How to Upcycle Plant Pots
While recycling is a wonderful thing, the reality is that most of our plastic doesn’t make its way to a local recycling facility. Trying to reduce plastic usage and reuse it whenever possible are always great options.
Here are some ways that I have seen plastic pots being used:
Use them again for seed starting. The more you grow from seed, the more you need to reuse these plastic pots, and the less likely you are to buy plants in more plastic containers.
Fill up space in patio containers or raised beds. Rather than fill the base with expensive soil, flip plastic pots upside down. This works wonderfully if it is a very deep container or you’re working with shallow-rooted plants.
Cut off the bottom of the pot to make a watering halo.
Use it as a water reservoir, similar to an olla (as I mention in this post).
Use the pot as a planting guide to create a ready-made hole when repotting a new plant.
Use larger pots with drainage holes to hold produce and rinse it with a garden hose
Make a squirrel or rat baffle by slipping a plastic pot upside down onto the pole of a bird feeder.
Cover a tender perennial with a large pot, filling it with dry leaves for insulation.
If you have any more clever uses for plastic pots, leave them in the comments below. Then I can add to the list for everyone to benefit from…and keep plastic out of the landfill!
Vines are a great way to add vertical interest to your ornamental flower beds, and native vines have the added benefit of supporting native insects. It sounds like a win-win, but vines can also be troublesome if planted in the wrong spot. The following four vining plants are native to the Southeast and thrive in a garden setting; plant them responsibly so they can be enjoyed for years to come.
The spray of white lacy flowers gives virgin’s bower a delicate look when it blooms in late summer and fall. Photo: I, SB Johnny, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This dense, twining climber grows in sun or shade and is useful as a screening plant for three seasons out of the year. Clouds of fragrant, small white flowers open to attract pollinators in late summer. This vine suckers and self-sows, so it’s best to give it ample space to stretch along a fence or arbor. It would look right at home in a cottage or wildlife garden. Virgin’s bower is a wonderful native alternative to the invasive, yet more popular, sweet autumn clematis (Clematis paniculata, Zones 4–9).
Few native plants are as colorful as coral honeysuckle, with bright pinkish orange blooms.
The red-orange trumpet-shaped flowers of coral honeysuckle are a favorite of hummingbirds when they bloom in spring and then on and off for the rest of the season. Meanwhile, the leaves are a crucial food source to the caterpillars of the snowberry clearwing and hummingbird clearwing moths, two of the prettiest insects around. This is a spiraling climber that twines around structures rather than latching onto them. It often needs some help climbing when it’s young, but it will quickly cover its support with a growth rate of around 3 to 4 feet per year when planted in full sun. Although it is frequently mistaken for the fragrant and invasive Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica, Zones 4–9), coral honeysuckle has no noticeable smell.
The bright flowers of yellow jessamine are a welcome sight when they bloom as early as February. Photo: David J. Stang, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Yellow jessamine
Gelsemium sempervirens, Zones 7–10
Those who desire the color and fragrance of Japanese honeysuckle may find a friend in yellow jessamine instead. Also known as Carolina jessamine, this beauty is the state flower of South Carolina and grows with a twining habit rather than latching on. It is evergreen in warmer zones of the Southeast, although it is barely hardy in my area (Richmond, Virginia). My fellow Zone 7 gardeners will want to look for a variety called ‘Margarita’, which reliably overwinters in all but the zone’s most severe, unusually cold winters. Be mindful that this plant is toxic and can cause skin irritation for some people, so it should be handled with gloves. Yellow jessamine flowers best when planted in full sun.
The bold blooms of purple passionflower have an otherworldly presence, emerging in June and lasting usually until September.
While the blooms of this plant may look like they come from the tropics or possibly even a sci-fi film, purple passionflower is the hardiest species of its genus and is native to the Southeast. This vine is easily grown in full sun to partial shade, but if it gets too comfortable it can spread into unwanted areas via its massive root system. For this reason, it is best grown in a large container or in an area where a driveway or other hardscape will prevent its spread. It climbs via tendrils (similar to a grapevine or a pea plant) and responds very well to pruning if needed. Purple passionflower is the host plant of the gulf fritillary butterfly, and while I am too far north to have encountered them, I’ve spoken to a few gardeners in Florida over the years that claim their caterpillars have voracious appetites.
The positive impact that these vines have on pollinators and insects cannot be emphasized enough, but you’ll want to be wise when introducing them to your garden. Any vine, native or nonnative, can stunt the growth of a tree it is allowed to climb on. They can also quickly spread and overtake the trees at a forest’s edge, impacting the health of the overall forest. Vines should be planted against manmade supports and not near trees.
Certain vines like Virginia creeper can leave an unsightly residue when growing up the side of a house. Be sure to plant any vine you want to grow in the right area.
Additionally, while the native vines mentioned here do not attach to buildings or pry up siding, other vines, like Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia, Zones 3–9), may. Be sure to research each vine’s habit and plant it where it can thrive sustainably.
For more great Southeast native plants, check out:
And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.
Cheyenne Wine is a writer and photographer for Rare Roots Nursery in Mechanicsville, Virginia.
Do your plants need to be repotted? What are the signs they have outgrown their pots? How do you actually repot anyway? Will repotting hurt your plant? Repotting isn’t hard. Let’s get started. N.B.: Featured photograph by Justine Hand, from DIY: How to Care for Aloe Vera, the Plant of Immortality. What are the signs your […]
We’re off to East Tennessee today to visit with Elin Johnson.
There is a gate in the fence in the backyard of my condo in downtown Farragut, Tennessee. Walk through it and you can enter a wilderness you might not expect to find there. There is a pathway behind the fence belonging to the homeowners association, and then the land falls off sharply to a little stream that flows below.
When I moved here five years ago, the stream was small, but one summer it began to get larger. Its banks finally reached the size of a pond. Someone told me beavers had built a dam and the water was backing up, but I didn’t believe them.
Then I noticed something nearby that convinced me. Only beavers could have done this. This place is proof of the resiliency of nature, and I’d like to show you more things I have experienced here that convinces me of this. My condo is so close to the interstate highway that I can hear the traffic, and I can see a major highway when I walk my dog. I can see the signs of a big hotel and the Cracker Barrel from here. But wildlife is not only occasional here but lives here in abundance.
In the summer of 2023 my friend Larry built a flowerbed for me along the bank down to the water. I planted flowers for the bees and butterflies that live there. But some things I planted will not return this year—bunnies and deer enjoyed eating them. (Apparently they don’t like marigolds.) But I’ll try again.
Many dragonflies fly about. Butterflies are also numerous here. One fall a couple of years ago there were a lot of monarch butterflies that were flying south. I counted 13 one afternoon. (I need to plant some milkweed down by the creek.) This black swallowtail is perched on a Verbenabonariensis (Zones 7–9 or as an annual)flower.
Birds are numerous—many types. I have thought for many years that I-75 is a north-to-south migratory route for the birds, and living this close has confirmed that. This winter I have observed many warblers that have come to Tennessee for the winter. And other birds can be observed in spring and fall making their way back and forth. There are bluebirds, towhees, cardinals, chickadees, and Carolina wrens that live here year-round. And then there are the hawks who take advantage of this abundance. They hunt regularly in the wilderness.
Spring is nearly here!
It’s March now, and the progression is beginning.
Life in my downtown wilderness is beginning to flourish! I wonder what my beautiful natural world will display this year. Every year brings more surprises.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Sowing a seed directly into the ground, nurturing it, and reaping the rewards is one of the easiest gardening activities you can do—yet many gardeners don’t. There are many reasons to direct sow. Often, you’ll have earlier harvests because the seeds will germinate when it’s the perfect time to grow, and stronger seedlings because transplant shock isn’t an issue. Planting seeds in general (instead of buying transplants) gives you more varietal options, and you can also save a lot of money (1 packet of 30 to 150 seeds often costs less than a 6-pack of plants). And then there is the personal satisfaction factor. Ask any child who has planted a sunflower seed how they feel when that flower towers over their head, and you’ll understand what I mean.
Unfortunately, there are a few things that can go wrong when undertaking the seemingly easy practice of direct sowing, and perhaps that’s why more people don’t do it. The following are some tips to try and some pitfalls to avoid that will lead to direct-sowing success.
Do these things for the greatest success
1. Do get your timing right
The most common time to sow seeds directly into the garden soil is in spring. However, late summer and fall are also suitable times when you want a second harvest or plants are no longer available at the nursery to purchase.
2. Do choose varieties that are easy to grow from seed
Typically, annual varieties are easier to grow from seed than perennial varieties, and within that group is the easiest of the easy. Arugula, beans, cilantro, collards, corn, cucumbers, dill, endive, kale, lettuce mixes, parsley, peas, pumpkins, spinach, squash, and Swiss chard are all good choices for vegetables. Root crops such as beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, and turnips should only be direct sown. These crops often will not develop that root that you want to eat if transplanted. Some annual flowers that are easy to direct sow are spider flower (Cleome hassleriana and cvs.), nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus and cvs.), sunflowers (Helianthus annuus and cvs.), and zinnias (Zinnia elegans and cvs.).
3. Do check the soil temperature, not the air temperature, before you plant
Every seed has an optimal temperature for germination. Seeds react to the soil around them, not the air above the soil. Some like it hot (corn and cucumbers), and some like it cool (peas and spinach). Use a soil thermometer to check the temp. You can fool seeds that prefer cool conditions (lettuce) when the soil is too warm for a second planting by putting the seed packet in the crisper compartment of the refrigerator for 3 to 5 days before sowing.
4. Do match your sowing technique to your variety: row, clump, hill, or scatter
Most gardeners are familiar with planting in rows (which are good for beans and peas because it keeps the sprouting vines organized) and hills (ideal for vining crops that need well-drained soil, such as cucumbers, pumpkins, and squash). Clump or scatter sowing might be a bit less familiar, however.
Clump sowing works well for those varieties of which you don’t want just 1 plant, such as bronze fennel, chives and dill. Sprinkle an entire packet of seed in about a 1-foot-round space. Scatter sowing for mesculun or any cutting greens is a great way to maximize space. Prepare the soil in the area (a wide row or square foot), and lightly scatter the seeds, trying not to have them touch. These are often replanted more than once throughout the growing season, removing 1 planting after a second or third cutting and immediately resowing the area with more seed.
5. Do tamp the soil —don’t leave it fluffy
Seeds need direct contact with the soil to absorb enough moisture to initiate the germination process. Fluffy soil dries out. Tamp the soil lightly with the flat of your hand—but don’t compress it—after sowing.
Don’t: Avoid these pitfalls to get the best results
1. Don’t rely entirely on frost free dates
Many seed packets say to wait until “all danger of frost has passed” before you plant. The USDA charts and local extension service seasonal predictions are based on averages from the past 5 to 20 years of temperatures at or below 32°F. But frost can still happen at a temperature as high as 38°F. How is that possible? First, all official temperatures are observed at 6 feet off the ground, not at the seedling level. The rest is all about thermodynamics.
Illustration: Conor Kovatch
Simply put, cool air is denser (and therefore heavier) than warmer air. As the ground and plants radiate the warmth they absorbed from the sun during the day into the air just above the ground, the temperature of that air causes it to rise, and cooler air settles down to take its place (called inversion). If the air is moist, and there is little or no wind, the coldest air remains close the ground, condenses, and forms frost on the plants near ground level. Low-lying pockets are the most vulnerable to this radiation frost. Your yard could be quite different from what the weather report is predicting depending on its elevation, relationship to a body of water, and surrounding vegetation.
2. Don’t choose most perennial varieties
As a general rule, perennial plants take too much time and effort to grow to an appreciable size. There are a few exceptions (pictured right), the most common being wildflowers planted in the fall after the ground has cooled below 45°F (so they don’t start growing until spring). Many wildflower seed varieties need to have their dormancy broken by seasonal temperature changes to germinate. Allowing nature to do the work increases the percentage of successful germination in spring.
3. Don’t plant too deeply
Seeds are more likely to rot before the seedlings emerge if they are planted too deep. Some seeds, such as alyssum and cleome, even need light to germinate. Dill and many lettuces do better if they are not covered with soil as well. These seeds should simply be pressed into the soil to ensure good contact and left uncovered or lightly covered with straw or vermiculite to help retain moisture.
4. Don’t choose varieties that aren’t suited to your zone
Just like with perennials, certain seeds aren’t cut out for certain climates. For instance, if your zone has a short growing season (Zone 3, for example), you might not want to direct sow moonflowers (Ipomoea alba, annual, above) because the plant might die from cool temperatures before you see the first flower. Check the number of days to maturity on the seed packet, contact your local extension service, or ask a fellow gardener in your area for varieties that are appropriate for your locale.
5. Don’t forget to protect seeds and seedlings from pests
Some seeds are delicacies for critters such as birds, chipmunks, and insects. Until the plants get to a reasonable size, they are vulnerable. The best way to protect your seeds and young seedlings is with a floating row cover such as Remay®. This cover can also protect against light frost and help retain moisture. Because it is a “floating” row cover, it will not hold the plants down if left in place beyond the seedling stage. If it’s used as protection from insect pests later into the season, it should be removed before flowering crops start to bud so that the bees can pollinate the plants.
Tip: Peeking isn’t allowed
I don’t know a single gardener who hasn’t dug in the soil to see what’s happening under there at least once. Try to resist. Before you start poking around or replanting, read the seed packet for the number of average days to germination—and double it. Those numbers are based on optimal growing conditions, both soil temperature and moisture. The number of days to germination is when the seed coat swells enough for the root tip to emerge, not when you actually see the first sprout.
6. Don’t forget to plant your supports when you sow the seeds
Install your trellises, teepees, ladders, cages, and support rings when you sow the seed. Doing this will both mark the location of your planting and make it easier to untangle fast-growing runner beans when they’ve grown a foot in 3 days.
To Thin or Not to Thin
Whether it is better to space seeds properly when sowing or to thin as seedlings emerge mostly depends on the type of gardener you are: obsessive or more relaxed. Must you save every seedling that emerges, or can you bear to cut your seedlings off? If you are the former, sow with a spacing that keeps the plant’s mature size in mind. You can always sow additional seed if a few don’t germinate or interplant something else. If you are the latter, sow tighter and eat your thinnings. Either way, you’ll get more produce if you allow the seedlings to have the space they need so that they don’t have to compete for water, nutrients, and sun. With better air circulation, they will be less likely to fall victim to disease as well.
There is one vegetable that must be thinned: beets grown for their roots. That seed in the packet is in fact a cluster of 2 to 5 seeds within a capsule of dry flower petals. You can’t separate them until they start to grow. But once they are 2 inches tall, keep the strongest one, and cut the others to enjoy in your salad.
Sandy Merrill worked for the Chas. C. Hart Seed Company for more than 15 years and teaches seed-starting tips and techniques across New England.
I won’t leave you in suspense: violets are edible. You might have already guessed that. Most of us have seen them candied and decorating cakes or in drinks.
Not only are they edible, they’re palatable!
Some plants are technically edible, as in they won’t hurt you to eat them, and they might even provide some nutrition.
But other flowers and ornamental plants, like violets, could be grown purely for their flavor.
You can even find cut flowers and live plants at gourmet grocery stores that are cultivated solely for munching on.
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Whether you buy some at the store ready to eat or to cultivate at home, or you forage them from the wild, these cheerful harbingers of spring are a delight on the plate.
In this guide, we’ll explain which parts you can eat and how to identify wild plants, and offer up a few recipes to get you started.
Here’s the full lineup:
If you purchase a plant at a nursery, unless they can assure you that the plant hasn’t been sprayed, don’t eat any of the existing flowers.
Pinch them off and let new ones form. You can safely eat those.
If you decide to forage your goodies, don’t take too many from one area and be sure only to forage in areas where it’s legal and safe to do so.
Don’t eat any foraged foods unless you know whether they have been sprayed or not, and avoid those growing on the side of the road. You never know what kinds of chemicals or animal waste has touched them.
Violets were one of the first flowers to be cultivated as food and medicine.
Ancient Greeks and Romans drank violet wine and used the petals to make syrup and preserves. They also used them in desserts and salads.
In North America, indigenous people used western dog violets (V. adunca) to lessen swelling or stomach pain, and to ease labor pains.
Field pansies (V. bicolor) were used for headaches, colds, and coughs. Marsh blue (V. cucullata) and downy yellow violets (V. pubescens) were used to treat boils, coughs, and dysentery.
It wasn’t until much later that people started to appreciate them solely for their ornamental value.
In the 1700s in France, they were revered as an elegant addition to a meal, and women wore violet perfume, which was sought-after across Europe.
In England, the flower was associated with modesty and fidelity, and that’s where the term “shrinking violet” emerged to describe a modest, shy person.
Queen Victoria had her garden stocked with violets at all times for use in syrup, jelly, desserts, and tea.
In mid- and late 20th century America, mimicking the fine French cooking they’d heard about, housewives topped cakes and salads with delicate violets as a sign of their taste and culinary prowess.
What Parts of the Plants Are Edible?
Both cultivated and wild species are perfectly fine for the dinner table. Not only that, but you can eat the leaves, too. Don’t touch the roots, though.
Some species do have edible roots, and a few, like V. sororia, have large tubers. But others can make you sick. Best to just ignore them. And if you leave them in the ground, new plants will emerge.
The leaves have a mucilaginous, gummy texture, particularly when cooked. It’s less noticeable in young and uncooked leaves. Test them out before you commit to an entire salad, since some people don’t dig the taste or texture.
These plants are full of vitamins A and C and gram-per-gram have more than oranges and spinach.
They’re comprised of alkaloids, anthocyanins, cumarins, flavonoids, melatonin, and salicylic acid, all of which combine to provide some amount of neuroprotection by increasing antioxidant activity and reducing inflammation, which is a fancy way of saying they can be good for your brain.
Eaten in excess, the leaves and flowers can have a laxative quality, so watch out.
They contain saponins, which can cause stomach upset and diarrhea. These organic chemicals are more concentrated in the roots, which is why you probably don’t want to mess with them.
Which Ones Taste Best?
Taste is subjective, of course, but I find wild types to taste the best. Cultivated plants are usually bred for their appearance, not their flavor, unless you find the ones bred for eating.
That said, I know plenty of people who like cultivated types better because the flowers are larger and usually more fragrant. I’m more partial to bitter flavors and not sweet ones, so to each their own.
If you want something more floral and sweet, smell the flowers. If they have a distinct fragrance, they will probably also taste more floral. Some of the wild ones lack fragrance and have a more bitter profile.
Try a few samples from plants that you know are clean and not sprayed with any chemicals, and see what you think.
The same applies to the leaves. Young leaves are generally better tasting, but I haven’t found much difference in flavor between wild and cultivated plants. Give some a nibble and find what you like best.
How to Identify Wild Violets
Assuming you aren’t plucking your flowers from a specimen you found labeled at a nursery, you’re going to want to be sure you’re looking at the right type of plant.
These plants are all perennials, and most of them go dormant in the summer heat, or at the very least, stop flowering.
Wild violets grow across North America (and the rest of the globe) in moist areas.
For those who live in dry climates, you might find them creeping into your lawn or other areas that are regularly irrigated. For those in wetter climates, you can find them just about anywhere, but especially near streams.
The easiest way to tell if you’ve found a violet is by looking at the flowers. They grow on narrow, leafless stalks, and each one has five petals.
Contrary to the name, they aren’t all purple. Many are yellow, burgundy, or white. The flowers always have three lower petals and two upper petals.
The upper petals are often distinguished from the lower petals by color, and they often lack the veins that appear on the lower portion of the petals.
The two side petals may be bearded, and the lowermost petal is the largest. It often has a yellow center and the heaviest veining. Examine it closely and you’ll usually see a backward-pointing spur that holds the nectar.
Absent the flowers, the leaves form in a basal rosette. The young leaves are curled in on themselves as they emerge, gradually unfurling as they age.
If you look closely, you’ll notice fine teeth along the margins, though some species, like V. lobata and V. sheltonii, have heavily toothed margins.
Most leaves are heart-shaped and come to a sharp point, though some species, like V. douglasii and V. halli, have long, narrow leaves.
If you don’t feel confident identifying these plants by leaf shape, I don’t blame you since they can be so diverse. Instead, wait for the flowers to emerge in the spring. They all look similar, and if you’ve seen Johnny-jump-ups, you know what these flowers look like.
Garlic mustard leaves have a similar heart shape to many violets, so rub the leaves between your fingers. Do they smell garlicky? That’s not a violet!
There are over 100 Viola species found in North America and around 700 worldwide.
In my neck of western North America, we find the yellow Douglas (V. douglasii), stream (V. glabella), Oregon (V. hallii), pine (V. lobata), western roundleaf (V. orbiculata), Astoria (V. praemorsa), goosefoot (V. purpurea), evergreen (V. sempervirens), and fan (V. sheltonii) varieties.
The purple-colored western dog (V. adunca), Great Basin (V. beckwithii), wedge leaf (V. cuneata), Olympic (V. flettii), Howell’s (V. howellii), Alaskan (V. langsdorfii), marsh (V. palustris), and sagebrush (V. trinervata) can be found across western North America.
The white violets in this area include Canadian white (V. canadensis), northern white (V. macloskeyi), pinto (V. ocellata), and western Canadian white (V. rugulosa).
East of the Rockies, you will see purple-flowered Appalachian (V. appalachiensis), common blue (V. communis), triangle-leaved (V. emarginata), Florida (V. floridana), southern woodland (V. hirstutula), Missouri (V. missouriensis), early blue (V. palmata), mountain pansy (V. pedata), arrow-leaved (V. sagittata), northern woodland (V. septentrionalis), woolly blue (V. sororia), and prostrate blue violets (V. walteri).
The eastern yellow species include spearleaf (V. hastata), Nutall’s (V. nuttallii), downy yellow (V. pubescens), and roundleaf yellow (V. rotundifolia).
Some of the most common eastern white species are sweet white (V. blanda), Canadian white (V. canadensis), and sweet white (V. macloskeyi) violets.
Common violet (V. arcuata), field pansy (V. arvensis), sweet violet (V. odorata), and wild pansy (V. tricolor) were brought over from Europe and have naturalized across North America. You’ll find them in lawns, disturbed areas, woodlands, and fields.
Recipes
There are lots of ways to use violets as a garnish. Chop them and sprinkle them on eggs or fish.
Place them whole on salads, sandwiches, souffles, cakes, and ice cream. They’re a delightful addition to Waldorf salad.
Drop a few into an ice cube tray and fill it with water. Freeze, and now you have some elegant ice cubes for your drinks. They go especially well in lemonade.
I steep the leaves and flowers in my homemade kombucha, which you can learn to make at our sister site, Foodal.
Looking for something a little different? You need to try this magical recipe:
Pineapple Soup
This recipe is stolen, stolen, stolen! But it’s so incredibly good that I had to include it here.
All the credit goes to Leona Woodring Smith, who wrote the indispensable book “The Forgotten Art of Flower Cookery.”
I’ve adapted it from the original a bit, but in essence, you’ll combine four cups of pineapple juice with three tablespoons of quick-cooking tapioca, and three tablespoons of sugar.
A bit of lemon peel, three cups of a combination of sliced berries, mangoes, persimmons, or oranges, and, of course, half a cup of violets – and you have a dessert soup that is heavenly.
Top it with whipped or sour cream and tuck in a few violets on the side to create a feast for the eyes.
If you’d like the original recipe, along with dozens of other flower-focused recipes, visit Amazon to pick up a copy.
Salad Dressing
The flowers work well in salads, but they also make a killer salad dressing. Why not try both?
You will need to plan ahead for this recipe. Take a packed ounce of fresh flowers and cover them in a quarter-cup of white wine vinegar in a glass jar. Shake and let them steep for 24 hours. Strain.
Stir the vinegar and three quarters of a cup good olive oil together with a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, half a teaspoon of honey (optional), half a teaspoon of salt, and pepper to taste.
Shake or stir together again right before dressing your chosen salad. I love it over arugula and romaine with tomatoes and feta. Top with or toss some flowers into the salad.
Stuffed Mushrooms
Believe it or not, violets and mushrooms work well together.
Heat a teaspoon of finely chopped shallots in butter and cook them on low until soft and translucent. Combine a cup of sour cream with a teaspoon of lemon juice, a teaspoon of white wine, a tablespoon of chopped violets, and the shallots.
Pop the stem out of a dozen large brown mushrooms and soak them in cool water for a few minutes. Drain and dry them by placing them on a towel and allowing them to air dry for a bit.
Place a heaping scoop of the sour cream, using enough to fill in each cap with a rounded mound, and place them on a greased baking tray. Shave a little parmesan on top of each mushroom.
Bake the mushrooms for 10 minutes at 325°F. Sprinkle some more fresh chopped violets on top as a garnish. They’re too pretty to hide.
Infused Water or Tea
Violet water is a vibrantly-hued ingredient that can be used for many recipes, from cocktails and non-alcoholic drinks to icings and sauces.
Grab a glass jar and pack it with violets. Pour boiling water over the flowers so they are just submerged. Cover, shake, and allow it to sit for 24 hours. Strain and use.
To make tea, use two tablespoons of fresh flowers per cup of hot water. Let it steep for five minutes, strain, and enjoy.
Pesto
The mucilaginous nature of the leaves makes for a good pesto. You’ll need:
1/2 cup pine or hazelnuts
2 cups loosely packed violet leaves
1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, whole
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
In a food processor, or in a mortar if you’re old-fashioned like me, mix or pound together the nuts, greens, garlic, and lemon juice until a paste forms.
Slowly add the olive oil while continuing to mix until you have a thick, smooth paste. Add salt and pepper to taste. If you’re feeling fancy, top with some fresh flowers.
Greens Soup
I’m assuming you’ve already sampled the leaves and have decided whether they’re for you or not. If you don’t jibe with the texture, you can cut the quantity of leaves in half with spinach.
For this you’ll need:
2 medium sweet onions
3 cloves garlic
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped violet greens
1 cup chopped beet greens
4 cups vegetable broth
1/2 teaspoon fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon cayenne powder
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
Salt and pepper
Shredded mozzarella or parmesan, to taste
Finely chop the onions and garlic and saute in the olive oil in a large stock pot. Add the chopped greens and cook for a minute to wilt them.
Add the broth, herbs, and spices and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Dish into bowls and top with a little shredded cheese before serving to taste.
Eat Your Greens… and Purples, and Yellows!
Delicious, nutritious, and beautiful? Some plants are just blessed with more than their fair share of good stuff.
Now I need to know what your favorite recipes are. Share how you intend to use up your floral finds in the comments.
Honeybees and butterflies may be the poster children for pollinator awareness, but these charismatic garden visitors actually make up a very small portion of the species that move pollen from plant to plant. Commonly overlooked creatures like wasps, flies, moths, beetles, birds, bats, and even lizards can all serve as plant pollinators. Another misconception is that most pollinator activity occurs from the height of summer and into early fall, but in fact pollination occurs during most months of the year when temperatures are within an acceptable range for insect activity and there is a pollen or nectar source available. In this article I will talk about an array of plants that feed and support pollinators at specific points throughout the growing season. As you plan your wildlife-friendly plantings, use these suggestions as a springboard for creating your own unique, multiseason plant combinations.
The sweetly striped blooms of spring beauty are welcome harbingers of spring. Photo: courtesy of Danny Steven S, via Wikimedia Commons
Spring beauty is an essential pollen source for early-emerging solitary bees
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moderately moist, well-drained soil
Native range: Eastern North America
In undisturbed, moist woodlands in much of the eastern United States, coming across a mass of spring beauty in full bloom is a breathtaking experience. This diminutive spring ephemeral isn’t commonly grown in garden settings, but with its aesthetic beauty and ecological benefits it certainly deserves more attention. Many of our ground-dwelling native-bee species spend most of their lives underground. Often their emergence from the soil coincides with that of a specific plant species that provides an essential nutrient that allows for their life cycle to continue. Spring-beauty mining bees (Andrena erigeniae) rely heavily on spring beauty’s distinctive pink pollen to rear their young. The small tubers send forth grasslike foliage immediately after late-winter snow melts. Flowers soon follow, and all parts go dormant and return to the ground within a matter of weeks. A favorite food source of native Americans, the sweet, chestnut-flavored tuber was commonly traded for other goods and services, which could explain this plant’s wide distribution range.
Eastern tiger swallowtails and other butterflies love to visit the lavender-pink blooms of ‘Jeana’ garden phlox. Photo: Adam Glas
‘Jeana’ garden phox is a beautiful selection that blooms from July through early September
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to rich, moist, well-drained soil
Native range: Eastern United States
Researchers at Mt. Cuba Center in Hockessin, Delaware, noted in a study that butterflies appear to greatly prefer ‘Jeana’ over other cultivars of tall garden phlox. Although the study did not determine the reason for this preference, ‘Jeana’ produces a large number of flowers per stalk and may provide more bang for a butterfly’s buck in a single visit. The blooms also have a delicate, sweet fragrance. Many garden phlox are prone to powdery mildew, but I have grown several specimens of this stellar cultivar and have never witnessed the disease. It can become quite tall in rich, moist soil, but cutting or pinching it back by half in late May will help to control the height.
‘Bluebird’ smooth blue aster is a lovely choice for late-season interest in a wildlife garden. Photo: Carol Collins
‘Bluebird’ smooth blue aster produces protein-rich pollen well into fall
Symphyotrichum laeve ’Bluebird’
Zones: 4–8
Size: 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun, dry to average, well-drained soil
Native range: United States and Canada
Abundant blooms in an unusual violet-blue flower color were what set ‘Bluebird’ apart when it was discovered in Connecticut as a unique seedling. Those beautiful flowers along with glossy, bluish-green foliage and noteworthy resistance to pests and diseases qualify this adaptable perennial as one of the finest garden asters. It is a late fall bloomer that combines well with ornamental grasses and flowering perennials such as orange coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida, Zones 3–9), Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum, Zones 4–9), and goldenrod (Solidago spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), which also provide excellent late-season resources for native bees and migrating monarchs.
Unusual but attractive blooms make spotted bee balm a unique addition to any garden bed. Photo: Carol Collins
Spotted bee balm is drought tolerant and adaptable to many growing conditions
Size: 18 to 24 inches tall and 9 to 12 inches wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; dry to moderately moist, well-drained soil
Native range: Eastern North America
When gardening for pollinators, it is important to include host plants that provide food and habitat for pollinating insects during the larval stage of their life cycles. For example, butterflies and moths start out as caterpillars that feed on foliage and require a steady supply of their preferred plant species as they prepare to pupate. Spotted bee balm is the host plant for several lepidopterans, including gray marvel moth and snout moth. It has unusual, tiered flowers that attract and feed a number of butterfly and bee species and make excellent additions to floral bouquets as well. It has distinctive square stems that identify it as a member of the mint family, and all plant parts emit a pleasantly pungent herbal scent that deters rabbits and deer.
Foliage tinted with burgundy provides a richly colored backdrop for the pale pink blooms of this enduring garden favorite.
‘Husker Red’ penstemon attracts a diverse array of pollinators
Conditions: Full sun; dry to average, well-drained soil
Native range: Eastern United States and southern Canada
Like the runway of any major airport, many flowers that produce nectar often have unique floral markings that light the way and guide insects to this nutritious supply. Husker Red penstemon is no exception.
‘Husker Red’ penstemon was the Perennial Plant Association’s Plant of the Year in 1996, and since then it has proven itself time and again to be a stellar garden plant for the Mid-Atlantic region. The abundant white to slightly pink flowers support a wide range of pollinators, including long-tongued bees, Halictid bees, moths, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It is also a larval host for several moth species. The attractive foliage emerges deep red to maroon in spring and retains a reddish cast that contrasts nicely with the floral display. The semi-evergreen leaves often remain attractive throughout the winter months, topped with glossy, almost-black seedpods. Flower production and foliage color are best when the plant is grown in full sun, but it also adapts quite well to dry spots in partial shade.
Adam Glas is a garden supervisor and rosarian at the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College in Swarthmore, Pennsylvania.
For more Mid-Atlantic regional reports, click here.
On Sunday I took my younger children to the beach after church.
There, I noticed the seagulls were a different species from those I grew up with on Ft. Lauderdale beach, so I looked up the varieties common to Florida.
A few articles mentioned that seagulls had once been less common due to hunting, which made me think, “Why would anyone hunt seagulls?” Which led to “Are seagulls good to eat?” since some mentions were made of them being used for food.
Right from the first lines, you know you’re in for a real literary treat.
Seagulls are a type of waterbird found near coasts and on inland waterways. They are typically gray or white with black markings on their wings, and they have long bills and webbed feet. While not so many eat seagulls, some people eat them.
Not so many eat seagulls. But some do. Whoa!
You would think it couldn’t get better than that – but it does! Today I’ll share my favorite excepts from the modern masterpiece Can You Eat Seagulls and How do they Taste?
First:
Seagulls have a chicken-like flavor, but because of their proximity to water sources, they also have a fishy taste.
This is confusing. Do other animals that live near water taste fishy? I have cows by my pond. When we get steaks from one of those cows, will it be fishy? Or is this only a saltwater thing? Like, if you raise sheep near the ocean, will they taste like fish? Conversely, what if you raise goats near a coffee plantation in the mountains of Colombia? Will they taste like espresso?
Others claim that the texture of these birds’ meat is a little oily or even gritty, which makes it more challenging to consume.
Yes, that sounds challenging.
No matter what your opinion on the taste of seagulls is, one thing is for sure: it’s not for everyone.
Dang. I was hoping seagull meat could feed the world, instead of those awful methane-producing cows by my pond. It sounds better than mealworms or spirulina. Too bad it’s not for everyone.
…while some enjoy eating raw seagulls, it is generally not considered safe.
If you choose to eat raw seagulls, clean the bird thoroughly and cook it well to reduce the risk of food poisoning.
I’m confused.
Seagull is typically cooked by roasting, baking, or grilling. First, the bird is cleaned and soaked in salt water for eight hours to remove the fishy flavor, then trussed and roasted in an oven.
Now I’m more confused. Why do you truss them? I ‘m starting to wonder if I can truss this article.
Grilling seagulls are also possible, although it requires careful monitoring to avoid burning the skin.
Seagull is done cooking when the meat is tender and cooked through, and the skin should be golden brown and crisp. Serve immediately with your favorite sides.
My favorite sides include broiled turtle, cricket muffins, stinkhorn soup and dry ramen soaked in Windex.
If you’re still confused, Can You Eat Seagulls and How do they Taste even has a “Seagull Recipes” portion!
Seagulls are not the most popular birds, but they can be delicious if prepared properly.
To start:
Take a sharp knife and slide it under the skin at the back of the neck, moving down to the tail feathers.
Carefully pull the skin off the animal from the middle of the legs to the middle of the back.
Remove the intestines and discard them.
The fishy flavor of the birds will be gone entirely after eight hours, so you can bake, fry or cook in any way to like. Who knew that seagulls could make such a tasty meal?
Who knew? We do now! Thank you!
Just remember:
There are risks involved in eating raw seagulls, but generally, seabirds are deemed safe to eat.
AI is destroying the internet, and it was already broken.
For most of the Southwest, “dry” is a normal state of affairs. We live in a complex mosaic of arid, semi-arid, and seasonally arid zones that make most generalizations impossible. And an especially wet or dry season can throw all calculations off, making our usual watering routines irrelevant. We must be willing to adjust to ensure plant health in our gardens.
That said, there are some things we can all do to maximize the natural precipitation that we do get. Much has been written about water harvesting. Water management can be as elaborate as you like: rainwater storage tanks, gray-water systems with tanks and pumps connected to irrigation, complicated irrigation-zone installations. All of these options, however, are dependent on available skill and budgets. But we can all start somewhere, so the following are some basics of water conservation that anyone can strive for. Even small changes help!
Desert natives, cacti, and succulents all have similar low-water needs.
Choose plants wisely
There are hundreds of great plants that have low water requirements. Succulents, natives, and adaptable plants from other arid and Mediterranean parts of the world can all create amazing garden combinations. If you have any doubts, visit some of the great botanic gardens scattered throughout the Southwest for ideas.
Thirstier plants are grouped by a downspout to take advantage of whatever little rainfall occurs. This helps the grouping stay lush, even in drier conditions.
Create smart plant groupings and placements
Plan your gardens so that plants with similar water requirements live together. Ideally, keep any plants with higher water needs near the house to take advantage of roof runoff, or rainwater directed by downspouts. Use more drought-tolerant plants farther out where frequent care and watering are not as likely.
Building up some of the natural land contours of this desert garden (left) allowed natural pools of water to form during scarce rain events. Over a few years the effects were noticeable, with a grove of greenery (right) thriving in a spot that was once desolate.
Maximize existing contours
Watching a long-awaited rainfall run quickly away from your thirsty plants is so disappointing! With a little modification of your garden’s contours, you can create minor landforms that direct the water where you need it, slowing it down enough so that it soaks steadily into your soil. Even shallow collection basins can capture several inches of water. Creating an artful series of mounds and basins will add interest to a garden and prevent precious water from running down the street.
Porous hardscaping allows for deep water penetration.
Use hardscape to your advantage
Garden paths and permeable dry streambeds built on a deep base of coarse gravel will capture water and allow rain to soak deeply into adjacent root zones. Patios of dry-laid stone with porous gaps perform the same way. Outdoor showers (using enviro-safe soaps) send water directly into adjacent plantings. As all rock gardeners know, rocks and boulders direct water deeply along their sides, and the reduced soil surface area helps retain that deep moisture.
Many municipalities in the Southwest allow homeowners to cut into the concrete street curbs to help direct water. Just be sure to call before you cut!
Create curb cuts
A curb cut removes part of the street curb to allow water to fill a collection basin near the street, nourishing a street-side tree or landscape. Cities such as Tucson, Arizona, have a vested interest in reducing runoff from storms and creating “greener” tree-lined streetscapes that help cool the neighborhoods, while also returning rainwater to the water table and reducing the need for irrigating street trees. Check your local area to see if such programs are in place there; if they are not, encourage implementation through your local entities. There is great satisfaction in watching fresh rainwater pool at the base of your thirsty trees and soaking deeply into their root zones.
Everyone loves a colorful container filled with annuals, but no one loves how much water these potted treasure need. Instead, try an assortment of water-wise succulents.
Plant smart containers
Traditional outdoor container plantings are usually pretty thirsty, with annuals that need daily watering. If that’s your style, be sure to use saucers under them so no water runs away and plants have extra time to fully use the water you give them. Better yet, use succulent plants to create colorful sculptural works of art that need much less water. In cool seasons these can go for weeks without water, and in summer, once or twice a week is plenty to keep them happy. Taking a short vacation is no problem—they will be there to greet you when you return.
We can always do more to save our most valuable natural resource. We know the occasional wet seasons will pass and we will be faced with water challenges again, so any changes we make now will only enhance our gardening success in the future.
It’s always a good idea to give the gift of courtesy to your neighbors. Even if they’re not the type to fly into a yard rage, they’ll still appreciate a little kindness in the garden.
What do the basic tenets of neighborliness require? Keep your yard tidy (dazzling horticultural displays are always welcome, but not mandatory). Mow your grass (if you have any), rake the leaves, and try not to leave stuff like bikes, toys, and garden tools littering the lawn. A good rule of thumb is to consider how you’d like your neighbor’s yard to look, and then apply it to your own. Oh, your standards aren’t that high? Then try imagining yourself as a discriminating person with a penchant for orderliness and good taste.
City gardeners, you’re not off the hook. The neighbors whose windows overlook your backyard or balcony may be a tad jealous of your outdoor space. If you can’t invite them over for a barbecue, at least keep your outdoor space looking decent (and, OK, enviable).
For garden etiquette insights we talked with Melissa Ozawa, the former gardens editor at Martha Stewart Living (and now the director of content and communications at the Perfect Earth Project). Ozawa herself tends a small outdoor space in New York City and also gardens upstate in Columbia County. Here are 10 common-sense good-neighbor suggestions:
Prune your trees, shrubs, and vines so they don’t encroach on your neighbor’s space. “And keep safety in mind,” says Ozawa. “Remove any big branches that look damaged or diseased—a storm could make them more precarious, and it’s better to be safe than sorry.” Trimming overhanging branches also helps prevent your leaves from falling into a neighbor’s yard—and you don’t want your leaves in the neighbor’s yard.
Plant Natives
Above: Sunflowers (Helianthus). Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer. For more, see Field Guide: Sunflowers.
Today we’re off to Tennessee to visit Lou Ann’s garden:
My neighbor Linda calls my house “the English cottage,” and I suppose there’s reason enough. I lived in Suffolk for three years, and the lovely people there planted a garden in my heart. I dreamed that one day, I would have my own cottage with roses and clematis around the front door.
This is purple Clematis ‘Jackmanii Superba’ (Zone 4 – 9) and ‘Zephrine Drouhin’, a beginner rose and a fine choice for bordering a walkway since it is beautifully perfumed and thornless.
‘Zephrine Drouhin’ reaches its peak in early May before the Japanese Beetles emerge, so aside from the yearly bout with aphids, she remains unmolested. As you can see, she comes out the winner in that fight.
This next one is a David Austin rose that I won on Instagram: ‘Olivia.’ She is a beauty!
My perennials putting on a burst of growth in May.
This clematis grows next to my deck out back. I believe it’s ‘Dr. Ruppel’, but I confess that I am not certain.
These sweet little windflowers (Anemone blanda, Zone 5 – 8) come up every spring along with the daffodils and hosta.
Azaleas (Rhododendron hybrid, Zone 6 – 9) and bugleweed (Ajuga reptans, Zone 3 – 10) grow on the side of the house. Sadly, my shrubs tools a hard beating in a December flash-freeze winter before last. They will take a while to recover.
Phlox (Phlox paniculata, Zone 4 – 8) is another favorite of mine. I think this one is ‘Bright Eyes’. Happy Returns daylily looks cheerful with bee balm in the background. That lemony sunshine blooms all June and into July with occasional late flowers into fall.
I couldn’t grow lupines in my clay soil, but my heart longed for them. Then I saw baptisia (Baptisia australis, Zone 3 – 9) growing happily in a state park garden nearby and knew I had to have them. They have mad roots, so plant them to stay because though you can move them, you wouldn’t enjoy it!
Who can live without the joy of coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea, Zone 4 – 8)? Not me!
I like experimenting with colors, textures, and shapes, so I lumped these rudbeckia (Rudbeckia fulgida, Zone 3 – 9) in next to some red yarrow (Achillea hybrid, Zone 3 – 9). Trust me: those rudbeckia are the boss in this combo.
One day I was watching a film of a beautiful, long double border at Arley Hall in England when spotted this alluring red flower. I was entranced! I zoomed in for a closeup and then started my search to find out what this mesmerizing plant could be. It’s Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ (Zone 5 9). You’d think I might be put off by the name, but I did my research. An Irish gardener on YouTube held forth on her experience, and after talking with more experienced gardeners, I was still keen to take ‘Lucifer’ on. The hummingbirds adore it! Here it is in my July border along with Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum x superbum,Zone 5 – 9).
I hope my garden makes you as happy as it makes me. If you’re ever in Tennessee, stop by for a tea party in the garden.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Here are the 4 different types of “pruning cuts” used for different purposes. These techniques can be combined can help you achieve the desired shape and health of your trees and shrubs.
Heading Cuts
Purpose: To remove the top portion of a branch, cutting back to a specific bud.
Method: Cut about one quarter of an inch above a bud at a 45-degree angle.
Result: Stimulates the buds beneath the cut to become new branches, which is beneficial for flowering shrubs and fruit trees as it can lead to more buds, flowers, and fruit.
Consideration: Avoid heading cuts if the aim is to open up a plant, as they can increase density.
Thinning Cuts
Purpose: To remove entire branches within a tree or shrub, thinning out the interior.
Method: Cut just outside the enlarged collar at the base of the branch without leaving a stub or cutting into the collar.
Result: Directs energy up the main branch, promoting stronger growth and opening up the plant to more light and air.
Consideration: Thinning cuts may cause a tree or shrub to grow taller or wider than desired if lead branches are left intact.
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Re-leadering Cuts
Purpose: To remove part of a lead branch above a lateral, making the lateral the new lead.
Method: Cut no more than one-quarter of an inch above where the main branch meets the lateral at an angle between straight across and the slope of the lateral.
Result: Reduces the height and width of trees and shrubs, and slows their growth.
Consideration: The lateral must be at least one-third the diameter of the main branch to support its new role.
Jump Cuts
Purpose: To reduce the weight of a branch before making a final cut to prevent tearing.
Method: Three-part cut sequence – an initial undercut one-third to one-half way through the branch, a top cut one-half to one inch further out, followed by the final cut just outside the branch collar.
Result: Safely removes heavy branches without damaging the plant.
Spring Pruning is Crucial
Spring pruning is a crucial gardening task that ensures the health and beauty of your plants. The timing and method of pruning depend on the type of plant you’re dealing with.
It’s easy to forget that flowers aren’t just for sun-kissed spots – there are plenty that thrive in shade.
Exhibit A: astilbe. Of all the plants that could grace a shade garden, species of Astilbe arguably come in at the top of the list.
The foliage itself is visually interesting, but it’s the colorful flowers that really makes astilbe sing.
And as an added bonus, they don’t mind being placed in a wet corner of the yard. What more could you ask for from a shade-loving perennial?
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An astilbe is no wimp, but some TLC will definitely help it look its best. But what does that look like? I’m glad you asked.
We’ve prepared an informative overview of growing, establishing, and maintaining astilbe. We’ll also take a look at some nice cultivars that you can add to your own garden.
Keep reading to delve into the awesomeness of astilbe!
Here’s what we’ll be covering:
If you aren’t already familiar with these lovely perennials, then it’s time for some introductions!
What Are Astilbe Plants?
Belonging to the Saxifragaceae family, the Astilbe genus contains approximately 25 species of flowering herbaceous perennials, which are collectively hardy to USDA Zones 3 to 9 and native to east Asia, southeast Asia, and the southeastern United States.
The compound, feathery, and fern-like foliage of astilbe can vary in color, but it’s generally an emerald green in the spring with a bronze tone that becomes more pronounced as temperatures heat up.
As astilbe is a basal plant, the foliage tends to come up from a single point of origin at the plant’s base.
The mature size is also variable – depending on the species and variety, these plants can reach heights of six inches to five feet, and spreads of six inches to three feet!
A relatively slow-growing plant, astilbe spreads via underground rhizomes to fill in a space nicely, when given enough time.
Emerging atop tall stems in late spring to late fall are the flowers: panicled, feathery plumes of tiny blooms that come in white, pink, purple, or red hues.
Along with being just as graceful and easily windblown as the leaves, these flowers are super attractive to bees, butterflies, and other pollinating insects.
Cultivation and History
Each species of Astilbe has its own epic origin story of how it came to be cultivated by green thumbs.
But when discussing the history of astilbe as a whole, you can’t leave out George Arends.
A plant nurseryman from Ronsdorf, Germany, Arends was a master hybridizer.
In the 1920s, Arends utilized A. chinensis, A. japonica, A. thunbergii, and A. astilboides to create the Arendsii group of hybrids, designated A. x arendsii.
He was a real whiz, too – at one point, he developed 74 different varieties in a single year!
These hybrids, with their uniquely striking flowers, are a big reason why astilbes are so beloved today.
Astilbe Propagation
Have astilbe plants piqued your interest yet? You can start some in your very own garden by sowing seeds, dividing mature plants, or transplanting potted specimens from a nursery.
From Seed
I’ll be honest, propagating astilbe from seed can be a bit challenging. The germination rates can be low, and seed-grown plants can take years to flower. But it is possible.
However, varieties usually don’t grow true from seed, meaning seeds will probably produce a different-looking plant from the parent.
So, if propagating perfectly alike plants is the goal, then I’d stick with division. But if you enjoy the overall challenge and the possibility of a unique yield, then read on!
In the proper conditions, your plants may actually self-seed and yield nearby volunteer seedlings.
You can move these into new spots in late spring or early fall, or simply let them grow where they are.
For actual seed collection, keep an eye on your specimens once they bloom. Eventually, the inflorescences will form seed pods.
When they’re ready to harvest, they will appear brown and dry. Cut away these seed stalks and lay them out on sheets of newspaper to dry.
Once they are dry, remove the seed pods and place them in a paper bag. Shake the bag until the seeds have collected at the bottom of the bag. Put these seeds in a paper envelope, and keep them in a safe, dry spot until the following spring.
Come spring, take your seeds and soak them in lukewarm water for 24 hours. Pitch the floaters, as those aren’t viable.
Fill a seed tray with an even mix of coconut coir and perlite, or something that both retains moisture and lets the excess drains away.
Scatter the seeds across the media’s surface, gently press them in with a finger, and gently moisten the media with water.
Place the tray in an indirectly-lit spot indoors, somewhere where it’s at least 60°F. Keep the media moist, and the viable seeds should germinate in 20 to 25 days.
As the seedlings grow, pick out any weak or unhealthy ones.
When you have healthy seedlings with at least two pairs of true leaves, pot them on into their own three- to four-inch containers, kept in similar conditions as the seed tray.
In fall, before the frost date, they should be ready for transplanting into the garden or an outdoor container. And at three years of age, your seed-grown plants should start flowering.
But first, you’ll need to harden off your seedlings. That entails bringing them outside for a half hour to an hour, bringing them back inside, and then adding 30 to 60 minutes of outdoor exposure each following day until they can handle a full day outside prior to transplanting.
Via Division
Because it spreads via rhizomes and grows slowly, plants should be ready to dig up and divide every three to five years.
Believe it or not, a large enough clump can be divided into a dozen daughter plants!
For the gardener who wants to see results sooner rather than later, it’s suggested that you purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Otherwise, you can transplant your divisions or seedlings!
Transplanting can happen in spring after the final frost, or in fall before the first frost.
Prepare partially shaded planting areas of rich, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0, ideally. Or, if you want to keep them from eventually spreading, you can also grow astilbe in containers.
Once it’s time for transplanting, dig holes about as deep and a bit wider than the transplants’ root systems. Space these holes about a foot apart.
Gently ease the transplants from their containers and lower them into the holes. Backfill the holes with dug-out soil, water in the soil, and you’re done!
How to Grow Astilbe
Let’s discuss what these plants need to thrive, shall we?
Climate and Exposure Needs
A fan of dappled shade, astilbes will do its best flowering with four to six hours of sun a day. If planted in deep shade, they’ll still grow lovely foliage, but not as many flowers.
Astilbes are at their best in a slightly acidic soil that is consistently moist, making them perfect for that low corner of your yard that receives consistent water run-off.
Regular additions of compost or well-rotted manure provide a fertile environment for astilbe, as well as improving your garden’s soil quality.
By amending your soil, you can make a more hospitable home for if your intended location is less than perfect.
Put in the extra effort to create an ideal site with good drainage, plenty of organic material, and consistent moisture, and you’ll find your astilbe at their happiest.
They’ll grow their best when given plenty of water, but they don’t like “wet feet.” That makes good drainage essential, and also makes heavy clay soils a no-go for these plants.
Irrigation-wise, if you check the soil an inch down and don’t feel moisture, then it’s definitely time to water.
Be careful not to water too much during the winter, as this will stress and harm the roots.
Growing Tips
Partial shade is best, but full sun and full shade are both tolerable.
A rich, moist, and well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 is best.
Water whenever the top inch of soil dries out. Or, keep the soil constantly moist.
Pruning and Maintenance
Honestly, there’s not much to do here.
Leaving the flowers and foliage standing through the winter helps to ensure a smooth transition from winter to spring, and the flower heads can add special interest and a meal for hungry birds.
Every three to five years, divide your specimens to keep them appropriately sized for their planting site.
Specimens in containers should be repotted whenever they have less than an inch or two of space between the roots and the container’s sides.
Astilbe Cultivars to Select
There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, so we thought we’d narrow the list down a bit for you.
Each cultivar described below is a top pick so you can find the right plant for your yard, and we’ve included recommendations from our trusted affiliates to purchase your very own!
If you’ve got an ambition to add some pink to your garden, ‘Little Vision in Pink’ is the plant for you.
The color falls somewhere shy of bubblegum, but because the plant blooms in early to midsummer, it adds a complement to the maturing foliage of hostas and other shade plants.
A. chinensis ‘Vision in Red’ adds a hue just shy of fire truck red to boldly stand out from the cooler colors in your shade garden.
The flower plumes will grow more intense in color until they reach their peak in midsummer, and the bronzed foliage is yours to enjoy for the rest of the season.
Though they’re at their best in shady areas with moist soil, these plants are prone to a few problems. But just a few – they’re otherwise surprisingly resistant to pests and diseases.
Many common garden nuisances such as deer, rabbits, or even slugs and snails fail to pose a threat.
That being said, here’s how to deal with the threats your astilbes could face.
Insects
Make like a programmer, and keep your eyes peeled for bugs. These bugs, in particular:
Asiatic Garden Beetle
Also known as Maladera castanea, the Asiatic garden beetle came over to the States from Japan and China, and found itself a smorgasbord of plants to munch on. Astilbes in particular.
The tan to white grubs measure 5/16 to 3/8 of an inch in length, while the adult beetles are a third of an inch long, with a luminous reddish-brown sheen.
The grubs feed on the roots, while the adults feed on the foliage – both of which stress and weaken the plant.
Remove nearby plant detritus to deter populations the next season.
Small numbers of adult beetles can be hand-picked at night and tossed into soapy water, or even killed with light traps, which consist of an outdoor lightbulb situated six inches above a pan of soapy water on the ground.
Insecticides may be needed to combat the grubs and to fight severe infestations.
Black Vine Weevil
Another bothersome beetle, Otiorhynchussulcatus is a flightless, snout-nosed, hard-bodied, black beetle that’s half an inch long in adult form.
The stout grubs are the same length, with brown heads and white to pale yellow bodies.
Adults emerge in spring to feed on foliage, with peak feeding in summer and early fall. Larvae hatch from laid eggs and feed on roots and basal crowns.
The leaf munching is more aesthetically annoying, while the larvae feeding does more significant damage.
Adults can be removed and destroyed in spring, to stop them from feeding and laying eggs. Do this by going out at night, shaking damaged branches out over tarps, and crushing the bugs that fall on the tarp.
Additionally, spinosad can be sprayed on leaves to deter feeding.
You can use Heterorhabditis or Steinernema species of beneficial nematodes to drench the soil around infected plants, which should kill any larvae.
Systemic insecticides like imidacloprid can combat adults and larvae alike.
Lygus lineolaris feeds on many different plants besides astilbe – at least 385!
The adults are about a fifth of an inch in length, and are colored a mix of yellow to reddish brown to black, with relatively long antennae.
Overwintering in nearby plant detritus, rock piles, and water banks, the adults emerge in spring to feed on developing buds and flowers. Feeding with piercing-sucking mouthparts, they extract sap, and can also transmit disease.
Eliminate overwintering sites by pulling adjacent weeds and cleaning up nearby plant detritus.
Simply picking the bugs off of plants and dropping them in soapy water is the preferred control method, but you can also look into introducing parasitic wasps.
Disease
Diseases can easily spread, so lessen the odds of infection by frequently sterilizing your garden tools.
Keep an eye out for the following:
Cercospora Leaf Spot
Caused by various species of Cercospora fungi, leaf spot causes cosmetic spots on leaf surfaces, and also hinders plant growth.
Many gardeners will just let it go or simply remove infected leaves, but preventative applications of copper fungicide have been shown to put a marginal dent in the spread of this disease.
Fusarium Wilt
Infecting the vascular, water-conducting xylem tissues of plants, this wilt is caused by Fusarium oxysporum, a soil-borne fungus that survives in soil for long periods of time.
Once infected, a plant will wilt, droop, turn yellow, and become twisted, often on just one side. Drought symptoms are common, despite excess moisture being a causal factor. Infected plants eventually die.
Proper watering is the key to prevention. If infected, a specimen should be promptly removed, along with the surrounding soil.
Powdery Mildew
A common affliction of many different plants, powdery mildew is caused by fungal species of Erysiphe, which coat plant leaves with a layer of white, dusty powder.
The causal spores can travel via wind and germinate without needing free water, which makes spread all too easy.
As powdery mildew can harm the leaves and stunt plant growth, it may be helpful to prune infected foliage. You can learn more about how to manage powdery mildew in our guide.
Best Uses for Astilbe
Astilbes are actually quite aesthetically versatile.
Whether you place them in a shade garden or bog garden, as a border or along a waterway, in a container or en masse, an astilbe never fails to look awesome.
You can even harvest the blooms at their peak for use as cut flowers!
Thriving in shady, regularly moist areas offers an astilbe plenty of planting companions. Hosta and iris are natural pals, along with heuchera, trillium, impatiens, and begonias.
Also, consider using mosses and ferns – if you have a suitable spot for astilbe, it’s almost guaranteed that mosses and ferns will readily establish themselves there, too.
Woody shrubs like azaleas and rhododendrons go hand in hand with astilbe as well.
They prefer the same type of light, favor the same slightly acidic and moist soils, and they even have complementary bloom colors!
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous flowering perennial
Flower/Foliage Color:
Pink, purple, red, white / green, bronze
Native to:
East Asia, southeast Asia, southeastern United States
Tolerance:
Deer, full sun (in northern climates), heavy shade, rabbits, slugs/snails
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
3-9
Maintenance:
Moderate
Bloom Time:
Late spring to late summer
Soil Type:
Organically-rich, moist
Exposure:
Partial shade
Soil pH:
6.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:
3 years (blooming), 4-6 years (full size)
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Spacing:
6 inches-3 feet
Attracts:
Bees, butterflies/moths, other pollinators
Planting Depth:
Surface sow (seeds), depth of root system (transplants)
For many people, asbestos brings to mind an image of unregulated worksites from the 1960s, or structures built in chaotic environments in the developing world. The reality is that asbestos is prevalent in a number of existing structures, and the danger it poses isn’t going anywhere.
In this article, we take a closer look at the topic, from why asbestos is a dangerous substance to the kinds of materials it can be found in. By the end, you should be convinced that asbestos is still absolutely something to watch out for today.
What is asbestos?
First, let’s learn more about what we’re dealing with. Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral with a number of properties that make it perfect for building with. It’s highly heat resistant, cheap, and an excellent insulator.
Asbestos was seen as such a seemingly perfect material, in fact, that it was used in a wide range of different structures, from homes to schools, for a long period of time.
While the dangers of asbestos were known from as early as around 1900, it wasn’t banned in the UK until 1999. This means that it can potentially be found in any structure that was built before then, but particularly those built between around 1960 and 1980.
Why is asbestos dangerous?
While asbestos is perfect for a wide range of building applications, it has one unfortunate downside: it’s highly carcinogenic. Those who inhale asbestos are at higher risk of a wide range of cancers including mesothelioma and lung cancer.
It can also cause a condition called asbestosis, which is essentially scarring of the lungs. The fact that these conditions can take decades to show up means that they can be particularly difficult to diagnose correctly, which often leads to further complications.
What materials is asbestos found in?
Asbestos can be found in a wide range of common building materials. These include insulation, roof structures (especially in garages), floor tiles, and drainpipes, among others.
Asbestos is often relatively safe while those materials are left alone. It’s when they’re broken up or disturbed, such as during a renovation, that the material can enter into the air and get into your lungs.
It can be very difficult to assess whether a material has asbestos in it through just a visual inspection. As a result, there are now a range of providers that offer testing services. If you find that you have a material containing asbestos in your property, it’s important that you take the right steps to get it removed, likely using the assistance of a specialist removal service.
Asbestos really isn’t something to play around with. The long-term negative effects it can have on your health are very serious, but luckily, it’s easy to avoid exposure nowadays. By taking care when completing renovation projects on old buildings, and testing any materials that you suspect may be hazardous, you can almost always successfully mitigate the risk of asbestos exposure in most modern contexts.
From the flowers carried as a lucky charm to the flowers that became a tourist destination in Arizona, many flowers have a fascinating history. Here are some flower legends that follow some of our most beloved blooms.
When I’m learning how to identify different flowers and their names, I find it always helps if I know the history behind the flowers. Even just one cool fact makes the name stick!
Over time, I’ve heard many legends about flowers, and some are just so fascinating. Whether it’s where it got its name, how it was used, or what it represented, many flower legends come from all corners of the world.
Excerpted with permission from A Short History of Flowers (Frances Lincoln, an imprint of The Quarto Group, 2023) by Advolly Richmond. A Short History of Flowers publishes March 7, 2024, and can be purchased wherever fine books are sold. Learn more at quarto.com.
California Poppy
Eschscholzia californica
The California poppy is native to the western United States, and as you can guess, is one of the main wildflowers spotted in California. It became California’s state flower in 1903.
“The plant’s fiery, orange-coloured flowers earned the name ‘copa del ora’, which means ‘cups of gold,’ drawing on the legend that the orange gold petals of the Eschscholzia californica filled the soil with the same precious metal,” says Advolly. “No one could have anticipated just how prophetic this would be when the California Gold Rush came in the 1850s.”
The First Nations peoples of California valued the plant for its medicinal purposes, using it to reduce headaches, as a natural antidepressant, as a sleep aid, to reduce stress, and more.
In most recent history, Meghan Markle as Duchess of Sussex included the California poppy in her new coat of arms after marrying Prince Harry, honouring her heritage and birthplace.
Daylily
Hemerocallis spp.
When I’m walking through the streets of Vancouver, you can’t go a few houses without seeing the brilliant blooms of daylilies in the summer.
“Daylilies were known to the early Roman, Greek, and Egyptian doctors from plants brought from China along the silk routes about 2,000 years ago. Northern Europe only learned of them in the sixteenth centre, with Hemerocallis fulva introduced in 1576,” says Advolly.
Where daylilies originated, no one is quite sure. The theory is that the plant began as a chance seedling that then became cultivated. In China, the flower legend was that eating the blooms could alleviate sorrow.
I myself love daylilies as an edible ornamental. The root tubers can be cooked like you would a potato and the flowers can be eaten in a salad or to garnish a dessert.
English Lavender
Lavandula angustifolia
There are few people who don’t love the calming scent of lavender. As a known medicinal herb and aromatherapy staple, lavender is used to scent many home and beauty products and as a decorative element itself when dried.
Lavender has been a European garden staple since the medieval period, used to clean laundry and as an insect repellent.
“When Queen Victoria declared her love of lavender, it incited a cult-like reaction which drove the fashion for all-things lavender, leading to the rapid growth of the English lavender industry,” says Advolly.
To this day, I think the lavender craze still remains strong. The plant is a foundation for many of my own recipes, including lavender linen water and lavender bath salts.
Speaking of beautiful scents, we can’t forget the lilac. While traditionally a spring bloom, the rising popularity of lilacs led to the French forcing blooms.
“The art of forcing lilac blooms commercially, especially for the white version, had been practised in France as early as 1774 in caves and cellars,” says Advolly. “Because, remarkably, no matter the natural shade of the flower, when non-white lilacs are forced in the dark, they produce white flowers.”
Today, we can grow white lilacs, but the common purple lilac remains the most popular. They live for decades, often outliving the gardeners who planted them. I inherited my own lilac tree when I bought my first home, and I happily brought cuttings indoors to perfume the whole house.
Lily of the Valley
Convallaria majalis
Longly beloved, the lily of the valley was one of the first flowers to be grown in cultivated gardens. It’s highly beloved in France, where it has its own festival on May 1, ever since King Charles IX became enamoured with the spring bloom.
On this day, families will wake up early and head into the woods to forage for the flowers and bring them to friends and family to symbolize good fortune.
But the king isn’t the only famous Frenchman to be captivated by the lily of the valley.
“Christian Dior often wore the flower in his buttonhole just as his models sported outlandish boutonnieres on the catwalk,” says Advolly. “In order to ensure that he had a constant supply of the flower, Dior’s personal florist, Madame Paule Dedeban, grew it all year round in a heated glasshouse so that the designer was never without his spring bloom.”
Love-in-a-Mist
Nigella damascena
A signature cottage-style flower, the love-in-a-mist has jewel-like flowers that sit atop feathery, fennel-like leaves. Once the flower is gone, a pretty seed pod takes its place, making it a highly decorative flower.
It was a common garden flower in Europe by the 16th century, even once considered too common and not worth growing by some. But one of the most popular varieties, ‘Miss Jekyll’, was bred by Miss Gertrude Jekyll in the 1800s in her own cottage garden after years of careful selection.
While you might expect the flower to represent love, its name actually comes from the appearance of the flowers floating atop fine foliage.
“Unrequited love and longing also found meaning in the unusual flower – giving someone a bouquet of N. damascena meant ‘you puzzle me’ but it could also indicate doubt, uncertainty, and even embarrassment,” says Advolly.
Snapdragon
Antirrhinum majus
Snapdragons are such a unique flower, and I’m sure I’m not alone in squeezing the flower to make the ‘dragon’s jaws’ open and close. The ‘flames’ of colour and a stamen tongue might even poke out.
And if you’ve ever let your snapdragons go to seed, you’ll see that their dried pods resemble tiny skulls. Because of this, snapdragons were thought to offer protection from witchcraft and even again.
Their appearance alone could bring all kinds of flower legends. “At the height of the Renaissance, new powers were bestowed upon the humble snapdragon,” says Advolly. “If you ever found yourself short on charm, it was believed wearing the flower about your person could miraculously enhance your social standing, as the flowers were said to give you charisma.”
Well, who can say no to a little charisma!?
Snowdrops
Galanthus nivalis
Before the tulips spring, you can find snowdrops. They truly are one of the first hallmarks of spring, albeit a subtle flower that might get missed upon a first look. Snowdrops will naturalize and form a colony, so they can linger for many years after originally being planted.
“Colonies of snowdrops are often found naturalised in many parts of the country at this time of year and, in most cases, in the vicinity of the ruins of ancient monasteries, churchyards, and other religious establishments, relics of past pious spring traditions,” says Advolly.
Snowdrops are used during the Christian festival Candlemas, where candles (and snowdrops for their resemblance to a candle’s flame) celebrate Mary’s purification in the Temple of Jerusalem.
The flower has also been linked to death due to its appearance and being found commonly in graveyards. Their white petals resemble a corpse’s shroud and the drooping heads like sombre mourners.
Sweet Pea
Lathyrus odoratus
Sweet peas are another cottage garden favourite, where the multi-coloured butterfly flowers climb atop fences and trellises. And, of course, cut and brought inside, where their smell fills the room.
In the 1800s, the popularity for the flower rose in Europe and by the late 1800s, desire for the flower had spread to America too.
Davis describes one family, the Nakagawa family, as well as a group of other Japanese-American families who sought to establish new farms in Arizona after they were incarcerated during WWII. The Nakagawa’s flower farm grew many flowers, including sweet peas.
“In early summer, visitors travelled across states to buy bouquets from the flower stands or just to drive past the field,” says Advolly. “The scent was said to carry for miles, and drivers would roll down their windows to make the most of the beautiful scent as they drove by mile after mile.”
The flower farms belonging to these Japanese families were a highly sought-after destination. The farms no longer exist today, the land being sold to developers over time. But how I wish I could have paid a visit!
Zinnia
Zinnia elegans
In comparison to other flowers on this list, it took a while for zinnias to rise to the ranks of a must-have garden flower. By the Victorian age, they were all the rage, and the breeding and cultivation of the plant took off.
Clementine Hunter was a folk artist who found plenty of inspiration in zinnias. Born on a cotton plantation in Louisiana, Hunter picked cotton before becoming a domestic servant at Melrose Plantation, a liberal retreat for artists.
“In 1939, at the age of fifty-two, while cleaning a recently vacated guest room, she came across discarded tubes of paints and brushes left by a visiting artist,” says Advolly. “Hunter, who never learnt to read or write, began to paint. One of her first paintings in that year was on a piece of curated cardboard and titled Bown of Zinnias, a favourite subject that she constantly returned to over the years.”
Little did she know that one of her zinnia paintings would go on to be displayed at the Louvre. And like Clementine, many of us continue to be infatuated with the zinnia flower.
And those are just a handful of some flower legends and amazing histories. For more, be sure to check out Advolly’s book A Short History of Flowers. If you know an interesting story behind a flower, leave it in the comments below.
February in our region was a month of waiting for the weather to get better. Warm winds and longer days have finally arrived, and most of us are desperate to get outside and do something. What better place to start than with a patio garden. A simple patio garden doesn’t take much planning, and the plants you want are in the nursery right now.
Create a space
Maybe there is no “patio” within your property yet, but there is a “space” that could be well-suited for one. This can be a tiny section, with just enough room for a chair and a table. Or it can be larger, with the square-footage needed to hold a firepit, a table, and many chairs. Whatever your limitations, this is a place to sit and feel the sun on your face and, if you’re lucky, enjoy some shade from a nearby leafy tree in the summer.
The surface can also be simple. Pea gravel or tiny ¼-inch minus gravel provides a stable and functional surface. The lovely sound of gravel crunching underfoot is very soothing. Gravel patios also tend to drain extremely well, so no rain puddles will ruin the patio party. Of course, you can also use pavers and flagstone to build your entertaining space if the budget allows and skilled labor is available.
Choose your surrounding plants wisely
Plants are more important around a patio seating area than in many other areas of your garden because you are so close to them. Fragrance, screening (for privacy), color, and structure are all matters to be considered. Starting from near the patio and working your way outward is the best way to plant. The following are three key categories of plants that I think are essential in every patio garden. They will add all of the attributes mentioned above and ensure you’ll have something interesting to look at year-round.
Bulbs are a must-have for the spring and autumn color
Small bulbs are good for bringing early blooms to the scene. They also naturalize readily, so they can pool around the patio in different locations. Add ground-cover bulbs that bloom in autumn to gain a splash of extra interest later in the season as well. Here are my favorite bulbs for around the patio.
1.Photo: Erin Presley
2.Photo: Joseph Tychonievich
3.Photo: Jason Jorgensen
‘Tete-a-Tete’ daffodil (Narcissus ‘Tete-a-Tete’, Zones 3–8)
Evergreen can contribute 12-months of structure, privacy, and interest, so they’re essential around a patio. Here in the Pacific Northwest we have quite a few broadleaf evergreens that are fragrant, thanks to their stunning blooms. Here are my favorite fragrant evergreens.
1.Photo: millettephotomedia.com
2.Photo: Jennifer Benner
Fragrant sweetbox (Sarcococca ruscifolia, Zones 7–9)
‘Marginata’ winter daphne (Daphne odora ‘Marginata’, Zones 7–9)
Plan ahead for shade by investing in a tree or two
In March, shade might not seem so important, but it will in summer. A light-canopy, deciduous tree is a perfect choice for a patio setting. If you have lived in the PNW for any length of time, you know that summers can be warm but can also be cool. The tree should have an open, small-leaved canopy so bits of sun can still get through. I recommend either buying a tree with branches that start up higher on the trunk, or pruning a tree with low branches as it grows so that eventually you’ll be able to sit under it. Here are two of my favorite trees for this situation.
1.Photo: Joshua McCullough
2.Photo: Jennifer Benner
‘Summer Chocolate’ mimosa (Albizia julibrissin ‘Summer Chocolate’, Zones 6–9)
The Rising Sun™ eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis ‘JN2’, Zones 4–8)
Now add a chair, a couple of pots, some lighting, and a table for a copy of Fine Gardening magazine, and you will have created the perfect patio garden.
For more Pacific Northwest regional reports, go here.
Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island, Washington.
“The Calanques, a real garden of stones on the edge of the sea.” This is how the famed French rock climber and mountain guide Gaston Rébuffat described the extraordinary dialogue between these dramatic limestone ridges and narrow azure coves of the Mediterranean near Cassis and Marseilles in the south of France. I walked there recently, […]
We recently visited Carol’s winter garden in Hendersonville, North Carolina (Carol’s Winter Garden) and today we’re headed back to see more of her beauties. Carol’s been gardening here since 2009, and the garden has evolved and matured in beautiful ways in that time.
The tree with the small yellow flowers by the bridge in this picture is Cornus officinalis (Zone 5 – 8). Amazingly, Carol grew this tree from seed she collected at Longwood Gardens where she completed their certificate courses for gardeners.
Another incredible seed-grown tree – this one is Juniperusrigida (Zone 5 – 7) which is a beautiful specimen, and Carol says is one of the prickliest conifers she’s ever known.,
Early-blooming crocuses (Zone 3 – 8) are beautiful… and a honeybee has come by to get some early nectar and pollen.
Hellebore (Helleborus hybrids, Zone 4 – 8) start so early, and the blooms last a very long time in the cool temperatures of spring.
Hellebores come in a wide color range… this particularly dark on is incredible.
A big clump of the stunning snowdrop Galanthus ‘Primrose Walburg’ (Zone 3 – 8) with yellow ovaries and spots on the inner petals to add extra color and beauty.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
