Category: Home & Garden

Eric Sternfels is part of a team of volunteers that maintains a stunning garden in Ned Wolf Park in Philadelphia. This park is small—just 50 feet by 150 feet—but the team of volunteer caretakers has turned it into a magical space. Eric has shared the garden with us before (Revisiting Ned Wolf Park and Through the Seasons at Ned Wolf Park), and it is always a pleasure to get to visit it again and see what is blooming. Recently, Eric noticed that the hellebores were putting on a particularly stunning display, and he sent in some photos of them and other early-spring bloomers in the garden.

These hellebores (Helleborus hybrids, Zones 4–9) are just loaded with blooms. Consistently among the first perennials to bloom in the spring, hellebores are also easy to grow and deer resistant, so they fit into nearly every garden.

The colorful parts that look like petals on a hellebore are actually sepals, so they don’t drop off as the flower matures, instead staying in place and looking beautiful for a very long time, often shifting to green as they mature.

‘Pink Frost’ hellebore can flower so heavily it is nearly a solid mass of flowers.

Mahonia bealei (Zones 7–9) is an early-blooming evergreen shrub with big spires of fragrant yellow flowers.

Crocus flavus (Zones 3–9) blooms close up on cloudy days, just waiting for some sunshine to coax them fully open.

A tree peony (Paeonia ‘Purple Butterly in the Wind’, Zones 4–8) is just beginning to push into growth. The enormous flowers are a stunning showpiece in the garden later in the season.

Black sea toothwort (Cardamine quinquefolia, Zones 6–8) is an ephemeral perennial that isn’t on the radar of most gardeners, but it should be. It pops up early with this wonderful carpet of flowers and then goes dormant for the summer.

Hoop petticoat daffodils (Narcissus hybrids, Zones 4–9) are a group of species and hybrids with enormous trumpets and tiny petals. The plants are miniature, and one of their best features is their delicate, grasslike foliage that is unobtrusive as it fades after flowering.

And here’s one final view of the hellebores showing off! This park sure is starting the gardening year off right.

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Small space? Big gardening dreams? No problem. City life might mean less room to grow, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have an awesome garden on your little balcony or roof spot. Don’t sweat it—smart staging is the secret sauce to making those tiny areas bloom.

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Small space? Big gardening dreams? No problem. City life might mean less room to grow, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have an awesome garden on your little balcony or roof spot. Don’t sweat it—smart staging is the secret sauce to making those tiny areas bloom.

Think of these staging tips as more than just making things look good; they’re about giving your plants a healthy boost and cutting down on hassle for you. Ready to strategize? With a bit of clever thinking and some handy tips, that snug spot outdoors can be your mini-jungle.

7 Staging Tips for Urban Gardeners 

Do you have a tiny balcony or rooftop that you’re dreaming of turning green? No stress. Here are seven savvy staging tips to help any urban gardener create their own little patch of plant paradise.

1. Elevate with Vertical Planters

Imagine your garden growing up. Vertical planters are the skyscrapers of the plant world, and they’re perfect for when horizontal space is a luxury. They let you capitalize on vertical real estate—walls, railings, or even hanging from a ceiling—to introduce lush levels of foliage.

By adding these upward-bound containers, your eye is naturally drawn skyward, giving a sense of larger space while keeping the floor area uncluttered. It’s not just smart spacing; it’s turning the air into an art canvas where your plants can paint green strokes.

2. Optimize Furniture Selections

Think of your tiny outdoor spot as a puzzle where every piece has to fit just right. The furniture you choose should be the Swiss Army knife of your balcony or patio—super functional and easy to hide away when you need more room for your green buddies. 

Look for stuff that can brave the sun and rain while still looking chic next to your potted plants. It’s all about being clever with what you have, making sure you’re ready for whatever—whether that’s kicking back with a book or getting down to some serious gardening.

3. Use Virtual Staging Software

Let’s talk about tech and how it’s changing the game for urban gardeners. Picture this: home staging with one click. That’s right, virtual staging software isn’t just for realtors anymore; it’s also become a secret weapon for those of us trying to make our small outdoor spaces bloom. 

It’s like playing a video game where you design your dream garden digitally before getting your hands dirty. Shift around plants, play with colors, and fiddle with furniture without lifting more than a finger. Once you’re loving what you see onscreen, make it happen for real. 

4. Color Theory Tactics

Colors are like secret spices for your garden—they can totally change the vibe. Playing with colors is like telling a story, where pale pots make your space feel roomier, and zesty flower hues add that wow factor. Mix it up by throwing in some cool blues, or go warm with oranges.

It’s less about strict rules and more about feeling out what gives off good vibes for you and your plants. Give those shades a shuffle, and turn your snug little spot into a canvas that feels right.

5. Strategic Lighting Schemes

Think of lighting as the nightlife for your plants. A few well-placed lights can take your garden from “meh” to magical when the sun clocks out. String some fairy lights over the railing for that instant starry-night feel or spotlight that proud succulent you’ve been nurturing for months. 

It’s all about setting the mood and making your space feel bigger. So, give those plants their moment to shine. With the right glow, every evening feels like a special occasion in your oasis.

6. Mirror Magic

Now, don’t overlook this one; mirrors are the ace up the sleeve for expanding any petite garden space. A well-placed mirror can reflect your plants and the sky, giving the illusion of an area twice its size. It’s a simple trick: catch the right angle and double your prospective garden. 

Plus, on those days when the city feels a bit too close, that reflection of greenery can be just the escape you need. So, let mirrors work their magic to transform your pleasant spatial reality.

7. Adaptive Container Gardening

When you’re short on space, think of containers as your garden’s flexible friends. They come in all shapes and sizes and can be shifted around to suit the season or your mood. Mix up tall statement planters with smaller pots for an eclectic vibe, or go uniform for an organized feel. 

Remember, good drainage is key—nobody likes soggy roots. Plus, lightweight materials mean you can move them on a whim without breaking a sweat. Containers are the chameleons of gardening: adaptable, portable, and perfect for urban plant parents.

In Conclusion… 

Alright, you’ve got the scoop on making the most of your compact garden spot—now go make some magic happen! Grab those planters, pick out some cool lights, and play around with colors and mirrors until you’ve hit your sweet spot. This is all about creating a space that’s fit for you.

Creating and caring for a coastal garden is a lot different than maintaining a garden inland. Unique conditions near the coast require additional planning and attention. While strong winds and salty air might mean that you need to take extra care, there are ways to deal with the challenges the climate throws at you and create a thriving backyard.

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Creating and caring for a coastal garden is a lot different than maintaining a garden inland. Unique conditions near the coast require additional planning and attention. While strong winds and salty air might mean that you need to take extra care, there are ways to deal with the challenges the climate throws at you and create a thriving backyard.

Challenges of Maintaining a Coastal Garden

Maintaining a healthy coastal garden comes with several challenges, mainly due to climate change. Shifts in climate patterns can exacerbate existing conditions and introduce new complexities. 

Prevailing winds present a formidable challenge to gardeners, harming plants, causing coastal erosion, and even damaging property. The force of these winds can lead to broken branches, stunted growth, windburn, and even uprooted plants. The changing climate may result in more frequent and intense windstorms. 

Climate change contributes to rising sea levels and temperatures, more intense storm surges, and increased saltwater intrusion into coastal regions. The sea breeze carries salt particles that can accumulate on plant leaves, causing buildup that interferes with the plant’s ability to absorb essential nutrients, ultimately impacting their health and growth. 

As sea levels continue to rise, the frequency and intensity of salt exposure are likely to escalate. The Northeastern United States is particularly hard hit by the rising temperatures, as the Gulf of Maine’s sea surface temperatures have been rising quicker than 99% of the global ocean.  

Climate change can influence precipitation patterns, leading to erratic weather conditions and impacting soil moisture levels. As a result, coastal gardens often contend with sandy soil, which tends to drain quickly, making it difficult for plants to access the moisture they need. 

Lastly, changes in precipitation, sea levels, and extreme weather events contribute to soil erosion. Intense rainfall and storm surges can lead to increased runoff and soil displacement. Climate-induced soil erosion threatens the stability of coastal gardens. 

9 Tips for Maintaining a Coastal Garden

With thoughtful planning and strategic care, coastal gardens can thrive just as well as inland gardens. Whether you’re a seasoned coastal gardener or planning a garden for the first time, here are some valuable tips to ensure your garden flourishes in the face of the often harsh coastal conditions.

• Make Sure Your Plants are Coastal-Friendly

For a successful coastal garden, you must select plants that thrive in seaside conditions. Choose species well-suited to the salty air and sandy soil prevalent in coastal areas. Sandy soil absorbs less water and nutrients and salt damage can result in leaf burn or plant death. Salt-tolerant or native plants often thrive in these conditions, providing a natural and low-maintenance option for your garden. Some of the best species for coastal living include:

• Lavender
• Seaside goldenrod
• Beach grasses
• Bougainvillea vines
• Daylilies
• Moss rose
• Ivy
• Winterberry holly 

• Monitor and Improve Your Soil Quality

Monitor your soil quality at least once every three years or more often if you’re experiencing any issues. Coastal soils are sandy and lack essential nutrients, but you can enhance the soil’s fertility by adding organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure.

Fertilizing your soil boosts nutrient levels and improves the soil’s ability to retain moisture, which is crucial for plant growth in coastal regions. It’s best to test your soil in early spring to receive the results in time for the next crop cycle.

• Provide Adequate Drainage

Proper drainage is essential in beachside gardens, as excess water can lead to soil erosion and root rot. Raise flowerbeds and incorporate well-draining materials like gravel or perlite into the soil to prevent waterlogging. During heavy rainfall, identify the areas where the rain pools — usually in low-lying areas — and create channels so the water can flow away. These measures help maintain optimal soil moisture levels for plant health. 

• Use Wind-Resistant Plants

Coastal areas are notorious for strong winds, damaging plants and hindering their growth. Strategically plant wind-resistant species as a protective barrier for more delicate plants. Use structures like fences or hedges to protect against relentless winds. Pay extra attention to the direction of the wind — and sun — to ensure you plan efficient windbreaks. 

Some of the best wind-resistant plants include: 

• Cedars
• Aspen
• Dogwoods
• Elder
• Oaks
• Hawthorn
• Holly
• Rosemary
• Catnip

• Rinse Your Plants Regularly 

The salty air near the coast can lead to salt buildup on plant leaves, affecting their health and appearance. To combat this, regularly rinse your plants with fresh water, particularly during dry periods. Rinsing your plants removes salt deposits and ensures your plants can absorb nutrients without interference. 

• Mulch for Water Retention

Mulching is a beneficial practice in coastal gardens, helping to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as straw, leaves, woodchips, grass clippings or bark, around your plants to reduce evaporation and maintain a more stable soil temperature. 

Coastal soils often have a higher pH due to the presence of salt. Regularly test and monitor the soil pH to ensure it remains within the suitable range for your chosen plants. A soil pH between 6.5 and 6.8 is usually the best for most plants. Otherwise, they may struggle to absorb nutrients from the soil. If necessary, amend the soil with materials like sulfur to lower the pH or lime to raise it, maintaining optimal growing conditions.

Nurturing young plants requires special attention to their nutritional needs, given the often unfavorable conditions of the environment. Because the soil lacks nutrients, providing adequate feeding for optimal growth is crucial. When establishing your young plants, incorporate a balanced, slow-release fertilizer into the soil during planting. This step ensures a steady nutrient supply over an extended period, promoting healthy root development. 

Additionally, periodically applying organic compost or well-rotted manure can enhance soil fertility, addressing common nutrient deficiencies. It’s best to regularly monitor the plants’ growth and appearance so you can make any necessary changes. 

• Plant Short-Season Produce

Coastal gardens often have microclimates — the climate of a tiny area that differs from the surrounding area. These conditions mean that growing produce can be a lot trickier. If you want your vegetables to grow successfully, prioritize growing plants that mature quickly, including:

• Radish
• Lettuce
• Carrots
• Kale and spinach
• Tomatoes
• Cucumbers
• Arugula 

Your Plants Can Still Thrive on the Coast

Developing and maintaining a seaside garden requires carefully considering the coastal environment’s specific challenges. Although the unique climate may make it a little more difficult to achieve your dream garden, it’s possible with a few extra steps.

Author Bio

Jack Shaw is a freelance writer specializing in home improvement, gardening, and caring for the outdoors. He’s the senior writer of Modded and has contributed his advice through sites like CAD Details, House 2 Home Organizing, Log Cabin Hub, and more.

Growing cucamelons from seed is easier than you might think. In this post, I’ll guide you through all you need to know about how to grow them, and share my expert tips for success.

You’ll learn the ideal methods you can use and the timing for exactly when to sow your cucamelon seeds, along with step-by-step instructions for how to plant them.

I’ll also show you how to care for your seedlings, pot them up, transplant them outside to your garden, and much more.

How Long From Seed To Harvest?

It typically takes around 60 to 70 days for cucamelon plants to become mature enough to start producing fruit when you start them from seed.

Flowers usually begin to appear around a month after planting outdoors. Once they’re pollinated, the tiny fruits will begin to develop.

The exact time frame depends on environmental factors like temperature, sunlight, and moisture levels.

When To Plant Cucamelon Seeds

You should start your cucamelon seeds indoors about 4-6 weeks before your average last spring frost.

If you want to direct sow them, do it a week or two after the last spring frost, when the ground temperature is between 70-90°F. Cucamelon seeds won’t germinate in soil colder than 60°F.

How To Prepare The Seeds For Planting

Although it’s not essential, you might like to try soaking your cucamelon seeds in room temperature water for 24 hours before planting them.

This can help soften the seed coat and speed up germination.

Cucamelon Seed Germination Time

On average, you can expect to wait anywhere from 4 to 13 days for your seedlings to begin emerging from the soil.

If you’d like to hurry the process along indoors, use a heat mat to keep them warm, and make sure the soil stays consistently moist throughout the germination period.

Covering the tray with a lid or clear plastic wrap is good, too, as it helps retain moisture and warmth.

What Do The Seedlings Look Like?

Cucamelon seedlings look a bit like cucumber or melon seedlings – just smaller. When they first emerge, they have two pale green, oval-shaped cotyledons, or seed leaves.

They will develop their “true leaves” shortly after. The true leaves are heart-shaped with serrated edges, and may be a little fuzzy in texture.

Related Post: How To Grow Cucamelons (Mouse Melon)

How To Care For Cucamelon Seedlings

Once your seeds have sprouted, it’s important to give your seedlings the proper care they need to grow strong and healthy right from the start. Here are my tips for success:

Light

Make sure your seedlings receive a consistent source of light to prevent them from becoming leggy and developing weak stems and roots.

To achieve this, hang a grow light a few inches above the trays at all times, and use an outlet timer to automatically run them for 14-16 hours per day.

Water

Keep the soil evenly moist by watering when the top inch feels dry to the touch. Don’t let it become waterlogged, as this can stop the seedlings from growing well.

It can be tricky to get the balance right, so I recommend using a moisture gauge and maintaining the reading between 3 and 5.

Temperature

Cucamelon seedlings do best in temperatures between 70-80°F. You can use a thermometer probe to monitor this, and place your tray on a heat mat to keep the soil warm.

Don’t expose the seedlings to extreme temperatures, as this can stress the plants.

Fertilizer

Once your cucamelon seedlings have developed their true leaves, start feeding them with compost tea or an organic fertilizer diluted to half strength.

Air Circulation

When the majority of seeds in the tray have germinated, I recommend giving them some fresh air. This helps stop mold from developing and produces stronger seedlings.

To do this, prop the lid open for a few days, then eventually remove it altogether. Check the moisture level of the soil often after this, as removing the lid will make it dry out faster.

Thinning

If you planted your cucamelon seeds too close together, you’ll need to thin your seedlings as they develop. If you don’t, they’ll become overcrowded, and their growth will be stunted.

Choose the strongest looking ones as soon as they are a few inches tall, and then pinch or snip out the rest.

Potting Up

You should repot your seedlings into larger containers as soon as they are twice the height of the tray. This will provide the room they need to grow.

I find that biodegradable pots make it easier to plant the seedlings into your garden, and reduce the risk of shock. But plastic nursery pots are good too, and have the advantage of being reusable.

Transplanting

You can transplant your cucamelon seedlings into the garden once they have at least two sets of true leaves, the ground is warm enough, and the danger of frost has passed.

But before you plant them outside you’ll need to harden your seedlings off. This prepares them for life outdoors, and is a vital step that you must take – without it they may not survive.

FAQs

If you’re tired of struggling, and want to learn how to grow any plant you want from seed, then enroll in my online Seed Starting Course. It’s a wonderful, fun, self-paced course that will teach you everything you need to know to easily grow your own seedlings. Enroll and get started today!

Or, if you just need a refresher, then my Starting Seeds Indoors eBook is for you! It’s a quick-start guide that will get you planting seeds in no time.

More About Growing Seeds

Share your tips for planting and growing cucamelons from seed in the comments below./

Printable Step By Step Instructions

People have told me that the weather in the Florida Panhandle/Lower Alabama is “difficult” for gardeners.

I wouldn’t say it’s difficult. It’s downright abusive!

It’s 4:37AM right now, and I’m sitting in my office with Betsy (the dog) with a space heater running. I just came in from hosing down all my mulberry trees in the Grocery Row Gardens to hopefully keep frost from settling in.

At 7AM we’re supposed to touch freezing, after multiple weeks of warm temperatures.

The warm temperatures have convinced most of our fruit trees that it’s time to leaf out and go into bloom. The eight or so mulberry trees in the main gardens are all covered in tender leaves and buckets of green berries.

And then… frost comes back.

Last year we had the same thing happen, except it was a little more extreme. We hit the 80s, before getting a night that plunged down to 28 degrees.  That absolutely wrecked some of the mulberries, not only taking off the fruit but even freezing entire branches. My 8′ tall Rachel Goodman mulberry froze almost to the ground! And the Peruvian apple cactus – which normally handles weather into the teens – bit the dust.

We also lost most of the year’s blueberry harvests, including all the wild ones we normally forage in the local woods.

Ideally, our gardens would be on the south side of our house, not the north, so they’d get a little more protection from the worst of the weather; yet due to an old driveway and a weird slope, that wasn’t possible, so they must face the northern exposure and do their best.

Fortunately in 2023 we got some rain in the spring and our gardens did well until the end of June. Then the heat really kicked in, and the sky decided it wasn’t going to give us any more rain.

We had week after week of weather soaring up into the 100s without rain. Normally, our okra, cassava, sugarcane and sweet potatoes thrive through the summer and make up for all the other plants that give up in the heat – yet in 2023, the heat combined with drought greatly limited their growth.

We got a little cassava and a decent amount of sweet potatoes, but the sugarcane was half its proper size, and the okra was a flop. The worst of it, though, was the effect it had on our pasture. Instead of growing thick and green, it dried up and provided little for the cows past October, requiring us to buy hay for over winter. Even our pond almost dried up.

Then, right around the first frost when it was too late to save the grass, it started raining. And raining. And raining!

The pond is now full, but the grass is still recovering.

And here we are with a (hopefully) last frost event before the 2024 gardening season really gets rolling.

It’s not difficult. It’s abusive!

Still, we are supposed to learn from suffering and use it for the purification of our souls. Maybe this is all for the greater good.

If you’ll excuse me… I have to go spray down the mulberry trees again.

We’re back today in Phoenix, Maryland, visiting with Sally Barker. She’s shared her garden with us on the GPOD in the past (Sally’s Garden in Maryland, Up Front , Sally’s Maryland Garden) but it has been a few years since her last post, and it is fun to see how her garden has evolved.

This bed in the back of the yard includes variegated ‘Summer Fun’ dogwood (Cornus kousa ‘Summer Fun’, Zones 5–9) and ‘Sikes Dwarf’ oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Sikes Dwarf’, Zones 5–9).

This close-up of the back garden features hostas (Hosta hybrids, Zones 3–9), Tiarella (Zones 4–9), geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum, Zones 4–8), New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) for summer color, and ‘Autumn Joy’ sedum (Hylotelephium spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’, Zones 3–9).

A side garden vignette of ferns and hostas and several gold bleeding hearts (Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’ Zones 2–8)

This is a new side garden in a location where shade had prevented grass from growing. Rhododendrons give enclosure to the area.

In this view of the front garden are catmint (Nepeta × faassenii, Zones 3–8), Dianthus, lambs’ ears (Stachys byzantina, Zones 4–8), golden juniper (Juniperus, Zones 3–8), and a purple barberry (Berberis thunbergii, Zones 4–8).

A shade bed with hostas, ferns, Allium, and variegated bishop’s weed (Aegopodium podagraria, Zones 3–10), which is considered invasive, but I love it here.

Another view of this garden shows off the fabulous Hosta ‘Sagae’ and Carex ‘Ice Dance’ (Zones 5–9).

A mossy rock is surrounded with self-placed sedums and lambs’ ears and a native goldenrod (Solidago).

A bunny statue peeks out of autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora, Zones 4–9), Epimedium (Zones 4–9), and Pulmonaria (Zones 3–9).

And here’s a favorite fall view of mine under the ‘Waterfall’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Waterfall’, Zones 5–9).

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Check out Asia’s urban garden:

This quote is so true:

“One of my biggest struggles you would think would be space, but I find that I have sufficient space to grow a lot of
the food that I want. To grow the tall food, the big food, the wide food, I can grow it, I can trellis it up, I can let it sprawl in a space where I don’t normally walk.”

Asia’s YouTube channel is here.

Today we’re in Phoenix, Maryland, visiting Sally Barker’s beautiful garden:

While my garden has been featured many times on GPOD (Sally’s Garden in Maryland, Up Front , Sally’s Maryland Garden), it’s been a few years since I sent photos. As any long-time gardener knows there are always changes and additions to be made! One edits continually as certain plants don’t live, or don’t live up to expectations. I finally removed two sections of forsythia and created new and very happy opportunities. Even favorite plants sometimes need to be removed as, for instance, a group of Annabelle hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, Zone 3 – 9) which were popular deer food. I can’t wait for spring to redesign this area.

Here are some photos from past seasons.

Imagine that this whole area was full of forsythia! Now azaleas and rhododendrons, a magnolia in the left corner and colorful ground covers are abundant.

Another more shady part of the same area. An oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Sikes Dwarf’, Zone 5 – 9) nestled amongst hostas and ferns, a blue hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla, Zone 5 – 9) and Geranium macrorrhizum (Zone 4 – 8), my favorite ground cover.

Same bed with Ajuga ‘Black Scallop’ (Zone 4 – 10), Acorus gramineus ‘Minimus’ (Zone 5 – 10), Stachys ‘Hummelo’ (Zone 4 – 8) and Alchemilla (Zone 3 – 8). It’s all about texture.

More acorus, ferns, and a wonderful Heuchera ‘Raspberry Regal’ (Zone 3 – 9), which will bloom pink for a long while.

Another view of the new garden. Oenothera ‘Siskiyou’ (Zone 5 – 9) blooms pink in the early summer.

My patio garden with maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum, Zone 2 – 9), heuchera and lysimachia (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, Zone 3 – 8).

The patio garden in the rain.

A view from the patio under a Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, Zone 5 – 9).

Ogon spirea (Spirea thunbergii ‘Ogon’, Zone 4 – 8), hakonechloa (Hakonechloa macra, Zone 5 – 9), Geranium macrorrhizum and the star of the backyard, a Natchez crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’, Zone 6 – 9) on the right.

Sally sent in so many great photos we’re going to revisit this garden again tomorrow, so come back then for more!

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.