Category: Home & Garden

Fancy a hot pink species for your rock garden? You got it. How about a dreamy white one tolerant of wet soils? No problem.

Within this diverse and wide-ranging genus, you can truly have all your heart desires.

Read on to find out more about growing this hardy wildflower. Here’s what I’ll cover:

What Are Beardtongue Plants?

Bright, beautiful beardtongue plants bloom throughout summer. Hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 9, there’s a Penstemon for all but the most extreme climates.

Candy floss pink, indigo blue, or white with purple polka dots, these wildflowers attract lots of different pollinators with their colorful displays.

Belonging to the plantain family, Plantaginaceae, the beardtongues are one of the largest genera of plants native to North America.

Boasting around 270 species, these plants are endemic in every state in the USA except Hawaii, and present in almost every province in Canada. A few species range as far south as Guatemala.

Formally classified in the foxglove family, Scrophulariaceae, the beardtongues certainly look more like the snapdragons and figworts also in this group. They have the same long, tubular flowers, and slender, protruding stamens which give them their common name.

However, recent DNA evidence revealed the genus Penstemon is actually more closely related to the lowly plantains, the bane of every lawn-loving gardener in the world.

The beardtongues may be either herbaceous plants or woody shrubs. Although their foliage can be quite diverse, their flower morphology unites the genus and is a good characteristic to use in identification.

Their bisexual flowers are fused into a long tube with a prominent lower lip used as a perch by pollinators.

Sometimes these flowers are arranged into racemes along a stem, other times they occur in a terminal cluster known as a panicle. Color is not a good identification feature as this genus is hugely variable.

The American Southwest is the epicenter of diversity for the beardtongues.

Generally, these plants like freely draining soil and plenty of sun. However, across their range, Penstemon species can be found in wet alpine settings, rocky sunbaked locations, unmowed meadows, moist stream banks, and sandy sagebrush flats.

Whatever the conditions in your garden, I assure you, there’s a beardtongue that can match it.

Cultivation and History

Although the genus is primarily North American, Penstemon has been the object of much adoration and hybridization across the ocean in Europe.

In fact, over 22 Penstemon species and cultivars have received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.

The genus itself is named for its fuzzy fifth stamen, and has been the subject of intense fascination on its home continent. Penstemon societies and clubs abound in North America. The genus even has its own festival in Arizona.

Historically, many tribes of native people utilized decoctions of the roots and foliage to make medicines for both animals and humans.

The anti-inflammatory compounds present in the plant’s tissues were used to heal joint pain, among other things.

Some of the originally described 270 species in this genus may now be extinct.

As aridification of the American West progresses and habitat destruction increases across the native range, places where these wild species can thrive is diminished.

Penstemon Propagation

There are three main ways to get beardtongue plants established in your garden, which we’ll go over here.

Taking cuttings is a great way to get robust plants in just one year, as opposed to sowing seeds, which take a couple of years to reach flowering size.

Plants purchased in pots may also be transplanted into the garden.

Overall, these plants are fairly easy to grow, but the individual needs of each species or cultivar may vary.

Make sure to research the preferences of your chosen plant while following these general guidelines.

From Seed

If you live in North America, you’re in the native range of this genus. Why not try your hand at collecting seed from the wild?

If you’re up for this challenge, identify Penstemon when it blooms during the summer, and is most conspicuous. Always make sure you have permission to gather seed if you’re not collecting on your own land.

Once you find a population, watch as the blooms senesce and fruit starts to form. Pay particular attention to the capsule that contains the seed.

When adequately ripe, this structure will turn brown and almost papery. This is when you want to harvest, right before the capsule splits to disperse hundreds of teeny-tiny, dark brown seeds.

Usually, this happens in late fall, although it varies from species to species.

Collect the seed into an envelope, or a breathable cloth bag. Take only about 10 percent of the available seed so natural dispersal can still take place and wildlife that rely on this food source won’t go hungry.

Most species of beardtongue require cold stratification, or prolonged exposure to cold temperatures. Although this can be done in the fridge, I prefer to let mother nature do this work for me and sow the flower seed directly into the garden in the fall.

Choose a site in the garden that is free of weeds and brightly lit, with well draining soil. Cultivate the top inch of the soil and scatter your seeds generously over the surface.

Cover lightly with a sprinkling of soil or sand, just to hold down the seeds and ensure they don’t blow away.

Leave a label in place with the name of the species you planted and the date you sowed the seed. This will mark the area you planted, and help remind you to water the area once or twice a week when spring arrives.

Seedlings should emerge in spring. Thin out your new plants so there is about an inch of space around each one, leaving the most robust of the seedlings.

Remove any newly sprouted weeds, too. You might have to wait a couple of weeks before weeding to make sure you can distinguish the typically long, slender leaves of beardtongue from weeds.

Take care when weeding, however, as many young plants don’t look like the mature versions of themselves right away.

Make sure your seedlings are watered during dry spells. Although these species are drought tolerant once mature, seedlings have tiny, shallow root systems, and will need extra hydration if the surface of the soil is dry.

If you want to transplant your new baby Penstemon plants elsewhere, move them in the fall, after the active growing season has passed.

From Cuttings

Cuttings are most successful when harvested from the growing tips of beardtongues before they bloom. Early summer is a good time to do this.

First, prepare several four-inch pots by filling them with sterile, moist potting soil mixed with a little fine horticultural grit.

Using a sharp pair of scissors, take four- to six-inch cuttings from stems that have no flower buds. Gently remove all but the top pair of leaves from the cuttings and bury the bottom two inches in your prepared containers. Water well.

Keep your cuttings in bright, indirect light for six to eight hours a day. You may have a nice sheltered place outside to do this, but if not, a bay or picture window will work too.

Make sure your Penstemon cuttings stay moist, but not soaking, until they take root. This should happen in about four to six weeks.

Once your cuttings are firmly rooted you can transplant them into the garden. However, you may grow bigger, stronger plants if you keep them indoors over winter and plant them out the following year.

If you do this, you may need to pot them up to six-inch containers if the soil starts drying out rapidly between waterings.

Transplanting

The easiest and most straightforward way to get beardtongues growing in your garden is to purchase a potted plant from a nursery.

Choose a freely draining location in the garden that receives ample sun. Depending on the species you’ve chosen, this could be a rock garden, a brightly lit border, or in a meadow.

Dig a hole just a little wider than your plant’s pot and bury your beardtongue so the top of its root ball is level with the ground. Backfill with soil and water well.

Although these plants are drought tolerant once established, you’ll want to water at least once a week to help your beardtongues settle into their new home.

If any particularly dry weather comes along, give them an extra drink on top of their regular dose, too.

How to Grow Penstemon

Given the tremendous diversity present in this genus, the growing advice given here should serve only as a guideline.

This is particularly true when it comes to considering which Penstemon to plant.

A species native to the sunbaked flats of New Mexico is unlikely to thrive in a rich meadow in Maine. Do your research, and choose wisely.

Having said that, most beardtongues do prefer freely draining soil. Even denizens of the desert can be grown in rock gardens or gritty soils in the northern states, so long as your climate isn’t too cold.

Make sure to site your plants somewhere with plenty of sunlight.

Some species, such as the northeastern P. digitalis, can grow in partial shade along the edge of a woodland meadow, for example, but these will be less floriferous than when planted in full sun.

Many species look terrific grown en masse in places where they can really spread out.

The aforementioned P. digitalis, is an excellent naturalizer and will grow well when planted in unmowed grass. This species also self-sows and will naturally spread if sited in optimal conditions.

Other members of this varied genus, such as the Mexican native Hartweg’s beardtongue, P.hartwegii, and bearded penstemon, P. barbatus, can be grown as annuals in colder climes and are ideal for planting in large clusters in a rock garden.

Don’t be tempted to fertilize Penstemon unless you see obvious signs of nutrient deficiency such as yellow leaves, or scant flowers.

These species are adapted to lean soils and, if planted in the right place, won’t need any extra feeding.

Once established, beardtongue plants are drought tolerant.

As with all garden plants, it’s best to water if you experience any extended dry spells, or see any signs of drought stress such as wilting leaves.

Growing Tips

• Plant in freely draining soils.
• Provide space to self sow.
• Site in a location with full sun.
• Water during dry spells.

Pruning and Maintenance

Maintenance? What’s that? If you’re the kind of person that likes to kick up your heels and enjoy the garden from a comfortable chair, the beardtongues are right for you.

So don’t fertilize your plants, don’t worry too much about watering them, and definitely, definitely don’t deadhead them!

Removing spent flower heads can help to prolong bloom time, however, it will also deprive your plant of the seeds that will spread it around your garden.

One thing you can do if you are the tinkering, meddling sort is divide your beardtongues.

This practice is less about maintaining your plants and more about increasing them. However, unlike other perennials, dividing Penstemon is not essential to perpetuating its vigor.

To divide beardtongues successfully, first determine whether you have a species with multiple root clumps growing underground or a species that grows from just a single clump of roots.

Those that form multiple root clumps, such as P.digitalis, can be divided. Those with just a single clump, producing a single stem cannot.

To divide Penstemon, gently dig up an entire clump in early spring. Using a sharp knife, separate all visible rosettes, making sure each cluster of leaves has robust roots attached.

Replant immediately, making sure the rosettes are level with the soil. Water well, and regularly, for several weeks until your division is established.

Penstemon Species and Cultivars to Select

With such an enormous amount of diversity in the genus, there are plenty of species and cultivars to choose from. Here are some of our favorites.

Digitalis

The common name of this northeastern species is foxglove beardtongue as it does look similar to its distant cousin in the Scrophulariaceae family.

Hidcote Pink

This recipient of the Royal Horticultural Society’s prestigious Award of Garden Merit grows up to three feet tall and three feet wide.

Sporting huge, inch-long, frilly pink flowers, this hybrid cultivar allows you to really indulge your desire for all things cute and pretty.

Excellent for anywhere with freely draining soil, ‘Hidcote Pink’ is also a terrific cut flower and blooms starting in midsummer – a tad later than most species in this genus.

This cultivar is hardy in Zones 8 to 10.

Newberryi

Growing only up to a foot high, this creeping, shrubby species is commonly known as mountain pride.

Native to the high elevation regions of California, Oregon, and Washington, it clings to rocks and is incredibly drought tolerant.

Not commonly found for sale in horticulture, this is a fun one to cut your teeth on if you have a rock garden and are up for a new challenge.

Pretty, tubular flowers appear in spring and are truly prolific. This species is hardy in USDA Zones 7 to 10.

Port Wine

Growing up to three feet wide and three feet tall, this impressive hybrid has deep, dark purple flowers over an inch in length.

Popular in cottage gardens for its floriferous displays, this cultivar thrives in USDA Zones 7 to 9.

Rupicola

Hailing from the rainy, misty Pacific Northwest, this low lying little Penstemon grows to only four inches high.

It spreads beautifully, creeping across rocks or cascading over a pot, reaching about 18 inches wide.

Aptly named rock penstemon in common parlance, its slender, pink, trumpet-shaped blooms appear in May. This species is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 9.

Growing only to eight inches tall, this species is great for growing in the front of the border, or for gardens short on space.

Managing Pests and Disease

The beardtongues are hale and hearty, and amazingly resistant to both pests and disease. If grown in optimal, sunny, freely draining conditions, there’s very little that will bother these plants.

Here are just a few things to be on the lookout for, in the rare instance that problems do pop up. 

Disease

Most issues that arise with Penstemon are due to overwatering, or planting in a too-shady location in the garden.

Here are the most notorious diseases you might find making trouble with your beardtongue plants:

Leaf Spot

A general term for a disease caused by lots of different species of fungi, leaf spot results in discolored blemishes on the foliage.

Penstemon plants become more susceptible to foliar diseases like leaf spot when they’re stressed by overwatering, or too little sunlight. Make sure you’ve got the growing location right, and this potential issue will become a non-issue!

If you do notice signs of this unsightly fungal infection, prune off any affected leaves and destroy them by burning, or tossing in the trash.

Powdery Mildew

Appearing initially as small white dots on foliage, powdery mildew is a fungal disease that eventually progresses to coat the entire leaf surface.

Especially common in crowded areas with poor air circulation, this infection can also rear its ugly head when plants are stressed from drought, or too much shade.

Fortunately, powdery mildew won’t affect your beardtongue plants’ growth and development much. It typically occurs later in summer, after many Penstemon plants have finished flowering.

To manage powdery mildew, pull off affected leaves and burn them, or toss them in the garbage. Never compost diseased material as this will only spread the fungal spores further.

Read more about powdery mildew management in our guide.

Try to ensure that your beardtongue plants are situated in optimal conditions. As with any plant, making sure they get the right amount of sun and water will make them stronger and more resistant to disease.

Finally, when you need to irrigate, always water the soil, not the leaves. Wet foliage helps spread fungus.

Rust

Rust is another common fungal infection caused by a multitude of different fungi. The infection produces ugly, bumpy, orange blotches on leaves.

Although the disease typically won’t affect the growth and development of your plants, it’s a good idea to prune off all affected foliage and discard it in the trash, or by burning.

Overcrowded, warm, humid conditions promote growth of the fungi that cause rust. Make sure to space your plants out adequately, keep decaying foliage out of the garden, and water on the ground instead of overhead.

Fungal spores spread more easily when the whole plant is wet.

With these simple measures, rust should resolve on its own, leaving your Penstemon fungus-free.

Pests

Penstemon plants are absolutely beloved by pollinators, but lucky for us, there are very few pest insects that bother them.

You may encounter issues with common garden pests like aphids and spider mites.

Purportedly, slugs and snails can and do chew on Penstemon, though I’ve never seen it. If these plants are sited in the freely draining soils they prefer, snails and slugs should not be a big issue.

Gastropods – a fancy word for those squishy destroyers of plants – favor consistently moist areas in the garden and like to hide out under leaf litter or deep mulch.

Give your beardtongue plants good air circulation and don’t overwater. This will help to prevent slimy hoards of snails and slugs from munching on your plants.

If, however, you live somewhere like the Pacific Northwest, where high humidity and rainfall are a constant, remain vigilant! The war against snails and slugs is best waged at night, when they’re active.

You can pick them off your plants while they feed, or set up bait, barriers, or repellent. For more specifics on how to rid your garden of these pests, check out our guide to protecting your plants from gastropods.

Best Uses for Penstemon

Many beardtongue plants flower during the somewhat boring gap between June and midsummer when things in the garden aren’t exactly the most exciting.

After May’s irises and peonies wane, there’s not always a lot to look at.

Try growing one of the blue or red varieties as a colorful prelude to summer’s annuals, or plant a large swath of some of the straight species, like P. digitalis, out in a field you don’t have to mow every year.

This group of plants is wonderfully good at filling in your garden’s gaps!

Beardtongue plants are also durable cut flowers and look great in a bundle of summer’s other early risers, like ox eye daisies, catch flies, and the first purple vetch.

SOME PEOPLE collect art, and others collect vintage cars or maybe stamps or coins. Darryl Cheng collects houseplants. And in his latest book, “The New Plant Collector,” Darryl suggests some gorgeous possibilities with detailed guidelines for figuring out how to make a good match for your growing conditions before you invest.

Ready to add some houseplants? Darryl, better known as @HousePlantJournal on Instagram, uses all the technical insights available to him to make the countless houseplants that share his Toronto home thrive. He’s the author of a previous book, “The New Plant Parent,” and creates the popular website, houseplantjournal.com.

Plus: Comment in the box near the bottom of the page for a chance to win a copy of the new book, “The New Plant Collector” (affliate link).

Read along as you listen to the March 11, 2024 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

collectible houseplants, with darryl cheng

 

 

Margaret Roach: You’re so busy all the time; you’re so productive. Another book.

Darryl Cheng: Yes. Yes. Very exciting.

Margaret: Yeah. And I’ve been reading the new book; it’s very enjoyable. And of course, now I want all the plants, but that’s another problem altogether.

Darryl: Yes.

Margaret: A couple of years ago, when your first book came out, we did a podcast together about your approach to matching each kind of plant with the right light conditions for its peak performance. And I see on Instagram you’re still at it, you have your light meter in hand a lot of times. You don’t go by a casual assessment of the conditions, but you really go by data and making solid matchups as I said in the introduction. So, just for those who may not know your approach, just give us your brief version of your thinking on light, and why you have that light meter a lot of times at the ready [laughter].

Darryl: Yeah. I mean, my background is engineering, so I sometimes call my blog an engineer’s approach to houseplant care. And so, if we just really just plain look at a plant as a kind of machine, it is really just a solar-powered sugar factory. And those little sugars are what gives sustenance to the plant. So when I approach how should I take care of a plant, really the first thing I consider is light.

And when I started using a light meter, before making my own, I realized that light levels varied dramatically based mostly on the size of your window or how close you put a plant to the window. And yet, most plant-care advice, houseplant-care advice in particular, never really addressed that critical difference between potential light levels so much as at least the way I did in my first book, and for sure the way I do in my second book.

Margaret: Yes. And it is a measurable thing. In other disciplines, light is something that is… Think of photography, for example [laughter]. I mean, it is something that is measured. So, you’ve availed yourself of that kind of knowledge, and it’s fascinating. So speaking of light, there’s been so many technical advancements, it seems like, in recent years in the products to help us light our plant-growing areas better.

I think I read about it on your website, I see these LED grow-light bulbs now that almost look like an old-style light bulb that you screw into a socket. It yields 150 watts of light, but only uses 12 watts of power, it’s an LED, it’s like maybe 20-something dollars. It’s not a fortune, and it’s not emitting a lot of heat and it’s not 7 pounds or something. You know what I mean? It’s really a lot of progress, isn’t there?

Darryl: For sure, for sure. And actually, technologically speaking, I would say we live in a golden age as a houseplant owner, because think 20 years ago before we had readily available white LEDs, the only LEDs were those kinds of weird purple-colored kind, and they were also very expensive. And so, today, as a casual owner of houseplants, if I wanted to keep, let’s say, a cabinet full of plants, but away from a window, those white LEDs, you can buy a 2-foot-long one, something that can fit inside the cabinet. And these light fixtures, the ballasts are not like the old days of fluorescents, which are really heavy and need lots of electrical work, but these guys can just stick at the top of a cabinet very easily.

And so, it gives a lot more opportunities for collectors like me to own these tropical plants that also they don’t have such high light requirements compared to… Well, I don’t know where we’re airing this podcast, but let’s say growing tomatoes in your basement [laughter]. Requirements are not nearly as high as for that kind of growing. So, it is kind of a golden age, especially now that we have white LEDs that are cheap and readily available.

Margaret: Yes. In the new book, you begin by offering us some guidelines for collecting plants should we decide to surrender [laughter]. And you call your guidelines, they’re “your ABCs of houseplant appreciation,” because a lot of plant possibilities out there, but we definitely need a way to filter intelligently. So, what are the ABCs?

Darryl: Sure. Yeah. So, the ABCs are A for aesthetics, so you can appreciate how a plant looks, right? Its beauty, the structure. Then there’s B for biology, and that is just appreciating how the plant grows, the way it sends out new leaves, maybe if it flowers, or even as you propagate, the way that it continues growing after you cut it back.

And C is  companionship. And that is quite simply that you can have a sentimental attachment to your plants. The example I always say is I have a particular rabbit’s foot fern that I really like. But if you just took it away and replaced it with the identical type of plant, it wouldn’t have the same meaning to me, because it’s not the one that I grew.

Margaret: Right. I have my grandmother’s Clivia. I mean, even if someone gave me a different Clivia… I saw that you got one in the fall, or last year sometime.

Darryl: Yes, yes. And I mean, it wasn’t from my grandmother, however, it was from a garden-club sale. So my local garden club, they always have plant sales. So then, when I saw the Clivia there, I knew I had to get one because I heard about how much this plant is often passed down in generations and how it’s just so prolific.

Margaret: Yes, it is. I suspect mine is 80-plus years old. It’s now many plants, it’s many, many plants. And that’s not an unusual story. I’ve met many other people who have ones that are old ones, but now it’s many large plants, not just one plant.

And speaking of companionship, and you just alluded to it speaking about purchasing yours at a garden club, there’s the Begonia Society or the Gesneriad Society, or the Orchid Society. One can also have human companionship, and make new acquaintances and get new knowledge through plants, through sharing plants, and going to plant events and so forth. So that’s kind of fun, too, whether we do that virtually or in person. Yeah.

Darryl: Yeah. For sure. And I also think I would hope that maybe because of in social media now that it’s very common to have like a plant account, that that has maybe given a resurgence to plant societies, because that’s the in-person version of plant clubs or online kind of thing.

Margaret: Yes. You make a good point in the book that in all things collectible, whether it’s antiques or whatever it is, the word “rare” is an interesting word [laughter]. It’s used to describe a collectible. And what it usually is, is a neon light flashing that says, “Expensive, expensive, expensive. We’re going to make you pay for this.” But it can mean a couple of things for plant collectors, yes?

Darryl: Yes. And in the book I try to make a good point, which is not my own idea, it’s actually from Mike Rimland from Costa Farms. He stated that there’s two different concepts of rare—for a plant, I mean. The first is rare just on the Earth, right? And so, these are the kinds of plants you really don’t want to be collecting in your home. You’ve got to leave that to professional conservationists, botanists and those kinds of things. It’s not something you want to have in your house.

But then there’s just rare in cultivation, in commercial cultivation. And that just means that maybe the plant is not widely cultivated, or it’s maybe very slow in the way that it’s cultivated, and therefore not a popular plant to grow in a greenhouse, for example. Because every plant that’s grown in a greenhouse requires time and space. And so, if you choose to have one that takes a long time, then it takes away the space from something you could sell faster.

Those are the kinds of plants that I think a lot of people are seeing online with “rare.”And I mean, yes, they are rare and special in the sense that you can’t just buy them at the grocery store. And the fun thing now is that when people realize that specific plants are ones that people really want, then if it happens to be easy to cultivate, then a mass producer will cultivate it, and then hopefully bring the price down and let it be available at your local grocery store.

Margaret: Right. Some plants that we could collect, and you have… I don’t know if it’s the back half or two-thirds of the book, how much of it is kind of almost genus-by-genus of plants you would recommend considering collecting and some of the special ones within that genus. And each one starts with an introduction, but then there’s almost like a chart that says, “This is what its needs are. This is what this particular kind of plant’s needs are.” And you speak about the light and the other things that it needs so that, again, we can make a good match and be realistic before we go out and acquire things that we then can’t make happy and have a disaster on our hands.

Darryl: [Laughter.] Exactly. Yes.

Margaret: Yeah. I think begonias are a great way to get into plant collecting. They look… Well, we used to call them fancy-leaf begonias. They look fancy, they are showy, they’re distinctive. There’s so much going on with just the foliage. And yet, they’re not always… There’s plenty that aren’t super-expensive and rare [laughter]. You can still get a great, beautiful assortment. You have one picture in the book, I think, that has a display of them on a table, and it’s gorgeous [photo, top of page]. It’s nicer than any floral arrangement to have a group of begonias altogether.

Darryl: Oh, yes. For sure.

Margaret: If I want to become a begonia collector, what kind of a home should I give them? Are they demanding light-wise? What’s their sort of profile?

Darryl: In particular in the begonia section, this section is a little longer because, in fact, a lot of my learnings of begonias comes from, as you mentioned, begonia societies. They have whole societies based just on the Begonia genus. And so, there are specific, I guess you could say, classes of begonias. But in the book I only talk about two main ones, which are the cane types and then the rhizomatous types. I split that up in the book. And as you mentioned, for all the chapters, the section that talks about their care, I think the important thing to note about how I describe the care is that I try and make it more parameterized.

What I mean is that for every environmental condition that I mentioned, it’s something measurable and concrete that you can actually assess for yourself in your own space. And even within the light section, for example, of the light in the environment section, I break it up into three categories or, I guess, contexts of lighting that you might have. So, if you’re doing it natural light through a window in your room, then I give some parameters for that. And if you’re going to do purely grow lights, I give another parameter for that, namely the parameters you need to actually achieve the same light level that I’m suggesting.

So, you need to measure it at the leaf and then keep the grow light on for 12 hours, let’s say. And basically, the point is then when you read this section, I would hope that it’s not vague or just giving you some broadly defined thing like “bright indirect light” and that you put your plant where you think it’s bright indirect light, but then you’d start… I would say, “If you’ve actually measured it, is it actually over 200 foot candles in most of the day or not?” But rather than give you a vague thing, I say it directly, “200 foot candles minimum.”

Margaret: Or else [laughter].

Darryl: Or else the plant will not do well.

Margaret: And you have a great chart, I think, on your website as well, that for a lot of kinds of plants gives some of the numbers and so forth. I mean, besides in the book, I feel like isn’t there a reference on your website as well? Yeah.

Darryl: Exactly. Yeah. In fact, I think if you just Google “bright indirect light requirements by plant,” my website will be somewhere. I mean, it used to be first all the time, but it’s somewhere there.

Margaret: That’s very helpful. It’s just very important for us to not just go shopping and go, “ooh,” and “ahh,” and grab at the pretty faces. But to say, “Hey, can I make a home for this plant?”

Darryl: That’s right. Yeah.

Margaret: I was going to say, I think begonias are a great thing to collect because I think our money… Obviously, there’s some very unusual ones that are rare and expensive and so forth. But compared to, say, the Monstera, the Swiss cheese plant, which have become a thing—and we’re talking a really serious investment in many cases because they become so collectible—I feel like you can still get into begonias and have a gorgeous collection without mortgaging your house or whatever.

Darryl: Yes, for sure. Yeah.

Margaret: The Monsteras, on the other hand, I was interested if you explain about the… Speaking of light, that you observe some varieties… They’re called “Swiss cheese” plants, so holes in the leaves or lacy leaves, or however we want to describe it. And that some are more inclined toward more of that openness in the leaf shape according to how much light they get as well. Is that correct?

Darryl: Yes, yes. I mean, I didn’t do a rigorous A-B test experiment, but I did do one very clear case example where I took the pup from a Monstera. When I say pup, I mean the very, very tiny little growth that comes off the side of a Monstera that has very small, heart-shaped leaves, so solid leaves. I took that off, potted it by itself, and then stuck it under a grow light where I would measure 1,000-foot candles, and it was on for 12 to 14 hours a day. And in that condition, by the time that little plant put out its fifth leaf, that fifth leaf already had a full set of fenestrations, like cuts on the sides, and then even some mid-rib fenestrations. [Darryl with a Monstera, above.]

Margaret: And that’s what they’re technically called, it’s fenestrations. It’s like positive and negative. Again, that’s why they call it the Swiss cheese plant.

Darryl: Right, right. Yeah. Fenestration, I guess, comes from fenetre, the French word for window. They’re talking about basically any holes or cuts on the leaf that makes it look like Swiss cheese.

Margaret: Right. We could spend some serious money here, or we could get a more basic one. But what I found fascinating also was in that section of the book, and I think it may have appeared in some other places as well, you talked about a gadget that I really didn’t know about, which is these moss poles. I’ve seen them, the old-style ones where someone in a greenhouse situation made a device to make a plant go vertical, but I didn’t… Now they’re a product even, aren’t they? So tell me about moss poles, because those come up in the book, and you train some plants that way.

Darryl: I think at the nursery, prior to the craze of people getting really into houseplants, the moss poles that were available at nurseries were simply long-fiber cocoa coir that was wrapped around a post. And if you were trying to grow, let’s say, a Pothos or a Monstera, up that type of moss pole, it’s actually very difficult to get the plant to root against it, because the coir doesn’t really hold onto much water. And of course, the inside of the post is hollow.

When I’m talking about the moss poles that I’m referring to in the book, and the way that a lot of my friends online, let’s say, have grown their really, really large Pothos, it’s actually a sphagnum moss filled inside a structure, like a plastic structure, and one side of it is a little bit open, let’s say, with a mesh of some kind. And that allows the vine to root into the sphagnum moss because, of course, sphagnum moss is like a sponge, so it’s easily moistened and stays moist. [A detail of the moss-filled pole; Darryl uses rubber clips to help the plants get achored on the moist medium.]

Margaret: So you made these. It almost looks like coated hardware cloth that’s painted or whatever. You made this pole and you stuffed it with the moss and then let the plant…

Darryl: Yeah. Yeah.

Margaret: Because that’s what I didn’t know, is if there was actually a commercial product now like the one you showed in the book, because I see there’s all the other ones that, as you say, are more solid. But I didn’t know if the kind that you recommend are also available, or if it’s a DIY kind of thing.

Darryl: So, there are several people who sell just the plastic outer part. You buy it and then it’s already precut and everything, and you just wrap it in, maybe fix it together with some zip ties. Yeah. So, there are products out there for people who want to grow like this. Because the reason why people want to grow an Aroid type plant up a moss pole is because then its leaves develop into the mature state much faster.

Margaret: Right. Well, it looked gorgeous, and you had a picture in the book almost like a room where there’s different varieties or different species standing next to one another, each one trained up a moss pole, and they’re stunning looking. They’re gorgeous. [Above, pothos and philodendrons trained up moss poles.]

Darryl: And so, that’s the appeal of doing that with your Aroid type plants.

Margaret: Well, I loved it. I adopted a Syngonium last… maybe two summers ago, two springs ago at the garden center. I was doing some mixed containers for the seasonal garden outdoor containers. And they just looked good, and I thought, I’m going to use them as the spiller over the edge of the pots with various other things. And then, at the end of the season, I didn’t have the heart to let them die. I’d never grown one before, but I potted them up and brought them in. And oh my goodness, they’re like a mile long [laughter]. How easy are they to propagate? In the book, you have some gorgeous ones that have pink-splashed leaves and so forth as well [below]. And a lot of nice ones.

Darryl: Yeah, for sure. I think learning propagation as a way of just fundamentally understanding it with your plants and seeing it as a constant thing that you do with a plant then allows you to really enjoy the plant in the longterm. In the book, for certain genus types, I have a kind of diagram. I don’t know if you noticed them, but a kind of circular diagram where the plant starts off in a presentable phase and it grows bigger and it looks even nicer, but eventually maybe it gets a little too gangly and starts to look a little less presentable.

And then I tell you that you should propagate it however it’s supposed to be propagated, whether by stem cutting or leaf cutting. Then for a while, the plant may not look so presentable, but hopefully it’s coming back around to look nice again. That’s the idea to say that yes, your plant may not always look the greatest, especially right after you’ve pruned it off for propagating, but that there’s always a path to get it back to looking presentable again.

Margaret: Yeah. And I was going to say, speaking of things that need to look presentable again, hopefully, hopedully: I’ve grown begonias, rhizomatous and cane begonias, for a million years. But something about this year, it’s just funny. I mean, in the same house, it’s not any different. They summered outside, like they usually do in the same place, blah, blah, blah. Didn’t change anything else. But boy, they really have taken a beating. They are really unhappy this year.

And I think, O.K., I’m going to do—especially with the ones that have the rhizomes that look like caterpillars spilling over the edge of the lip of the pot—I’m definitely going to be doing some serious haircuts, I think. Cutting back into the plants and seeing what happens. But it’s time for that, I think; a little cleanup for those of us who summer our plants outside and then bring them in and they tend to decline a little bit, because I don’t have all the lights you have. I do want to get some of them, though, because I think it’s…

What I was going to ask is: Because you have these supplemental lights and more ideal conditions 12 months of the year, are you feeding year-round? Because I don’t feed in the winter because the conditions are such low-light, relatively speaking. Are you feeding year-round?

Darryl: Yeah. When I talk about fertilizing for houseplants, especially the ones that don’t go outside, that means they could have a growth spurt in the middle of December. Like if I see a bunch of new leaves coming out of the stems, then I know it’s actively growing, and therefore I will be using fertilizer. And I do it such that I actually have the slow-release pellets in the soil, which means every time I water, it releases a little bit of fertilizer in there. And so, therefore, every time I water those plants that have the granules, they are getting fertilized every time I water.

Margaret: O.K. But in the offseason, are you adding it to your watering can as well?

Darryl: For some plants, if I don’t have the granules in them, then I will be putting a liquid fertilizer into the-

Margaret: Because they’re in a high-light situation, or an adequate-light situation; they’re not suffering like some of my poor babies in my [laughter]…

Darryl: Well, yeah. And of course, now that I live in a house, there are… My huge Monstera, for example, is outside in the spring and summer. But then now, it’s in my basement under a rather weak grow light just to keep it alive until winter. And so, for that one, I’m not fertilizing because I don’t expect any growth to come out right now.

Margaret: O.K. Well, Darryl Cheng, I always love talking to you because I just love that you are so thoughtful about, again, making good matchups with your plants and about just being such a good plant parent [laughter]. I think so many of us have learned so much from your work and what you’ve shared on social media and from… I mean, you have everything from a course, to you do consultations by email, and helping people with their sick plants and all kinds of things. And now the new book. So, congratulations on that. And I hope I’ll talk to you again soon.

Darryl: Thank you so much. Yeah, for sure.

(All photos from “The New Pl;ant Collector,” used with permission.)

enter to win a copy of ‘the new plant collector’

I’LL BUY A COPY of “The New Plant Collector” by Darryl Cheng for one lucky reader. All you have to do to enter is answer this question in the comments box below:

Is there a houseplant you lust after (or one you have that is your very favorite)? Tell us.

No answer, or feeling shy? Just say something like “count me in” and I will, but a reply is even better. I’ll pick a random winner after entries close at midnight Tuesday, March 19, 2024. Good luck to all.

(Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

prefer the podcast version of the show?

MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 15th year in March 2024. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the March 11, 2024 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

Our first sale went well last Saturday, and we got to connect with new gardeners and meet up with old friends again. Thank you, Good Gardeners, for stopping by to say “hi.”

A lot of folks got some great plants.

Like last week, our booth will be at the Plaza Ferdinand in downtown Pensacola at the Palafox Market South.

Note that we are NOT in the median on Palafox Street, where the old market takes place. We are at the new market area in Plaza Ferdinand.

The market is open from 9AM to 2PM. We’ll have the “David The Good Plant Sale” sign out front.

We’ve been propagating some transplants for you all, and those are starting to come in now. It’s also time to get your cassava plants in the ground!

In the nursery this week, we’ll have:

Amaranth (beautiful purple)
Cassava
Chinese artichoke (quite rare)
Chaya
Coffee
Mulberry
Lemongrass
Vetiver grass
Gingers
Giant yellow timber bamboo
Irises
Saw palmetto
Oxalis (two beautiful varieties)
Tobacco (limited)
Tomatoes (Roma)
Yaupon holly
Gardening books
T-shirts

…and lots more, that I’m not listing here.

We always bring a couple interesting specimen plants if possible, so get there early if you’re a rare plant hunter.

The sale is THIS SATURDAY!

We can now take both cash and credit cards. Also, we always need pots, and we’ll take any trade-ins we can use from one-gallon size up for $0.50 store credit per pot. Recycle your pots – get free plants.

The market is friendly, and there are woodworkers and beekeepers and bakers and painters and all sorts of interesting vendors there. There are also other nurseries worth seeing along with ours.

See you there.

Richard Hawke is the Director of Ornamental Plant Research at Chicago Botanic Garden, where he oversees comparative evaluations of ornamental plants. The CBG Plant Evaluation Program has included 117 distinct trials over the past four decades, with 26 comparative trials currently underway in three evaluation areas. In 2011, Richard began reporting trial results in Fine Gardening magazine, and has since written dozens of feature articles that can be found by visiting his author page.

In this entertaining episode, Richard Hawke discusses his earliest memories of plants and gardening, the education and internships that laid the foundation for his career, and the joys and challenges of developing a world-class plant trial program. He also digs into the day-to-day details of plant evaluation and talks about some trials that yielded surprising results and some that were particular favorites, including evaluations of clematis, baptisias, butterfly bushes, and tender salvias.

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The Chicago Botanic Garden has trialed 198 heucheras since 1995. Find out which cultivars performed better than the classics here.

The Chicago Botanic garden was built on a series of islands, and soil conditions are not ideal. The original trial beds were atop a substrate of clay soil compacted by heavy equipment; the water table is very high, and drainage can be problematic. Richard talks about these soil woes, and the solutions that have improved soil structure and drainage in the newest plant evaluation area.

We’re back enjoying part two of Cherry Ong’s visit last June to the garden of perennial gardening expert Pam Frost on Vancouver, Canada. Cherry visited as part of a tour organized by the Vancouver Hardy Plant Society.

Expert combinations in color and contrast. The dark-leaved smoke bush (Cotinus coggygria, Zone 5 – 8) in the back makes a strong contrast to lighter foliage, and flowers in shades of yellow, yellow-ish green, and white.

Contrasting texture and form is key to an exciting garden design. Here we see bold leaves contrasting with fine ones, and the formal shape of a perfectly trimmed shrub contrasting with the informal plantings around it. No flowers, or even brightly colored foliage, needed here to make a beautiful design.

Planters going up the steps. Each uses different plants, but echoes the same colors – red and pink flowers, contrasting with silver and white foliage. Using similar terra cotta pots for each planting further unifies this area.

Epimedium (Zone 5 – 9) have delicate beautiful flowers in the spring, but their real value in the garden is their long-lasting foliage, which can look delicate, but is quite tough and does well in difficult sites like dry shade.

Moss, wood, stone, and ferns. Simple and perfect.

It is easy to overlook hostas as common and over-planted, but there is a good reason they are used so much – they’re durable, easy to grow, and the foliage is just beautiful.

Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum sp.) with variegation so elegant it looks like it was painted.

A tapestry of green with a Cardiocrinum (Zone 5 – 9) in bloom. These lily relatives thrive in a woodland garden and, after many years of patience, produce towering stems of huge white blooms.

Lily buds ready to burst open, with a perfect background of variegated grass.

If you loved seeing this garden, we have an article with design tips from Pam you should check out: Create a Garden with Cohesiveness

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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It was hard to ignore the stunning beauty of the delicate white flowers that promised me a lovely spring fragrance, a bounty of edible fruit, and the bonus of biodiversity in my gardens.

After learning more about this native species, I came to love and respect it in a truly intimate way.

This shrub is known for its environmental benefits, and is often used in reclamation efforts and erosion control.

It’s the perfect addition to riparian zones and makes fantastic shelter belts. And hey, not only are the plants easy to care for, but those nutritious berries taste mighty delicious too!

So when I had the opportunity to spread the word about how much I love the Saskatoon, I couldn’t pass it up. I’m honored to tell you more about the Saskatoon serviceberry.

Here’s a look at what I’ll cover in this article:

If you’re excited to learn more, let’s get started, shall we?

What Is a Saskatoon Serviceberry?

Saskatoon serviceberry, Amelanchier alnifolia, is a flowering, fruit-bearing deciduous shrub, native to the northwest region of the United States and western Canada.

It grows wild in the northwestern part of the continent, extending from California up into Canada as far north as Alaska, and east to Minnesota and Ontario.

It sometimes goes by other common names, including alder leaf shadbush, western Juneberry, Pacific serviceberry, western shadberry, western shadbush, western serviceberry, and pigeon berry.

Saskatoons belong to the Amelanchier genus, which is a member of the Rosaceae family, along with many popular fruit trees such as apples, cherries, and plums. You can learn more about the genus in our guide to growing serviceberries.

Within the A. alnifolia species are several different varieties as well as a number of cultivars and hybrids. We’ll cover some of these later in this guide.

Although commonly mistaken for other species in the Amelanchier genus, Saskatoons can be distinguished by inspecting their leaves.

Like all serviceberry species, the leaves have an oval to round shape. But where they differ is around the margin, or edge, of the leaf.

While most serviceberry leaves are finely toothed around the entire margin, or outside edge, in the case of Saskatoons, the edge of the lower half near the petiole, or stem, is smooth. Only the upper half, or the tip-end, of the leaf is toothed around the edge.

Some varieties of Saskatoons can grow up to 26 feet tall, but most only reach a maximum height of 18 to 20 feet tall if left unpruned.

Conversely, the common serviceberry, A. arborea, can reach up to 40 feet tall at maturity. Saskatoons usually grow in the form of a multi-stemmed, clumping shrub rather than as a tree.

Saskatoon shrubs thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 through 9.

In their natural habitat, Saskatoon plants can be found growing wild along bluffs, forest edges, moist stream banks, and rocky shorelines, as well as on hillsides, and in open wooded areas, swamps, and thickets.

They grow rapidly after natural and mechanical disturbances like fire, logging, and mass forest defoliation as a result of pest infestations.

As a perennial shrub, A. alnifolia changes throughout the year, not only producing edible fruit, but aromatic and visual seasonal interest as well.

In spring, it begins the season with clusters of delicate white, slightly fragrant flowers.

Soon after the buds begin to open, the leaves emerge. The alternate, green leaves are one to two inches long.

Saskatoon flowers are self-fertile, meaning the flowers will pollinate each other. Although they don’t require a pollination partner, they produce more fruit when planted in groups of two or more.

The juicy, round berries are called pomes, they ripen from green to red, and finally to a dark purple or black in early summer when they’re ready to pick.

These pomes resemble blueberries in size and color, and have a sweet, nutty taste. They grow to an average size of half an inch in diameter.

Saskatoons are commonly used in jams, jellies, and pies, among other delicacies. Also used medicinally, they have a colorful cultural history which I’ll expand on later. 

The fruits are an important food source for bears, birds, squirrels and other wildlife, while the foliage is enjoyed by deer and elk.

The green leaves turn gold, red, and burgundy in fall, adding ornamental value to the autumn garden.

Leaves fall away in winter, revealing the bare stems, or trunks, adding interest during the cold months.

With its cheerful spring blooms and vibrant autumn color displays, the Saskatoon serviceberry is an ornamental favorite for many North American gardeners.

It’s also low maintenance and easy to care for, making it a perfect food-producing addition to home orchards, permaculture plots, and urban food forests.

Cultivation and History

English botanist and zoologist, Thomas Nuttall collected, studied, and classified many North American plants during early expeditions between 1808 and 1841, including the Saskatoon.

He first classified the plant in a published document in 1818 as Aronia alnifolia.

The word Saskatoon is derived from the Cree word misâskwatômin (mis-sask-quah-too-mina), which translates as “saskatoon berries.”

The city of Saskatoon in the province of Saskatchewan, Canada, shares the name, which makes good sense as the city lies geographically in the middle of the plant’s native range.

Historically, Indigenous peoples across North America consumed these berries in various forms – fresh, dried, mashed, or cooked.

They also used Saskatoon berries as a natural sweetener and combined them with animal fat and meat to produce pemmican, a dense, high-energy food.

Beyond their culinary uses, Saskatoons were relied on for medicinal purposes. In traditional Indigenous medicine, they are believed to have cleansing and rejuvenating effects on the body.

They were used to treat liver diseases, disinfect wounds, prevent miscarriages, and as a laxative. The Blackfoot people used the berries to manage diabetes.

The twigs and branches of the Saskatoon plant also served medicinal purposes, used in cold remedies, general tonics, contraceptives, and treatments for gastrointestinal issues, and the leaves were used for making medicinal teas.

Saskatoons were also utilized for purposes outside of diet and health. Young branches of the plants were crafted into ropes, and the wood was fashioned into tools like arrows, baskets, and spears.

In contemporary times, Saskatoon berries have gained recognition as a “superfood” for their numerous health benefits.

The Saskatoon pome, or berry as it’s often called, is nutritionally dense, containing a range of vitamins and minerals including potassium and various B vitamins, as well as fiber and tocopherols.

A 100-gram serving of the berries provides 60 calories, healthy levels of fat and protein, and is particularly high in carbohydrates and fiber.

These berries are rich in beneficial compounds like terpenes, phenolics, glycosides, and alkaloids, with a higher polyphenol content than many other berries, indicating strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

These fruits are delicious in pies, puddings, marinades, and jams. If you haven’t tried eating them fresh or cooking with them, you’re in for a treat! We’ll touch on some suggestions for the use of Saskatoons, and I’ll share a few recipe ideas later on in this article.

The growing popularity of Saskatoons eventually prompted their commercialization, with American and Canadian growers cultivating and selling these shrubs since the 1960s.

Orchards have also commercialized berry production, selling fresh and frozen fruit directly to consumers and processors. You can even find u-pick farms in many regions, where you can enjoy the activity of harvesting your own Saskatoons!

Now that you’ve learned the cultural significance, history, and nutritional value of A. alnifolnia, you’re likely curious to learn more about how to grow it yourself. So, let’s dive in deeper, beginning with propagation.

Saskatoon Serviceberry Propagation

Saskatoon serviceberry can be propagated from seed, from cuttings, by separating and transplanting suckers, and by transplanting purchased container-grown plants from nurseries and greenhouses.

From Seed

When propagating Saskatoon from seed, it is most often a case of, “you never know what you’re going to get.”

In the wild, there is no control over cross-pollination, so if you collect seeds from a plant you like, that seed might not produce a new plant true to its parent.

Some retailers sell Saskatoon seeds and you can also collect seeds yourself. Each pome, or berry, produces a single seed.

To grow from seed, collect the fruits as soon as they ripen and clean them immediately to prevent fermentation.

Carefully remove the pulp surrounding the seed, then gently wash them in water and allow to air dry before storing in a sealed, refrigerated container. Seeds can be stored for up to five years.

Seeds that have been stored will benefit from four weeks of warm stratification before 90 to 120 days of cold-moist stratification.

Begin with the warm stratification process. Soak your seeds in water for 24 hours, then place the seeds in a handful of damp soil into a plastic zip top bag and seal it, then set the bag in a warm spot in your home for the four week period.

Check the contents every two or three days to make sure the medium is moist and isn’t growing mold.

If you see mold, don’t panic! Just remove your seeds, rinse them thoroughly and prepare a fresh bag of damp soil, then continue the process.

After four weeks, move the bag to your refrigerator for cold stratification. If you live in a temperate climate and you’ve got an uninsulated porch, garage, or greenhouse your seeds can also spend time there through the winter.

After three to four months of cold stratification, prepare a shallow container or a tray with potting soil and plant the seeds about a quarter of an inch deep.

Moisten the soil and cover the tray with plastic and then set the tray somewhere warm with indirect light. Keep the soil moist and check it regularly to make sure it doesn’t dry out completely.

Germination will occur anywhere in roughly 30 to 40 days, but in some cases can take up to 18 months.

After successful germination, wait until the plants are at least an inch or two tall before potting them up.

Transplant the seedlings into individual pots, four to six inches in diameter, and keep them in a sheltered outdoor location until they reach about six to seven inches tall. Transplant them into the ground in early spring or late fall.

If you stratified your seed indoors through the winter and sowed the seeds in the spring, they should be ready to plant in the ground by fall of the same year, which is the ideal timeline.

Unless you’re an experienced gardener or propagation enthusiast, this method might seem lengthy and complicated.

You can avoid doing the work involved with stratification by letting nature do the work for you. Just sow your freshly collected seeds directly into the ground in the fall.

Sowing seeds in the fall exposes them to natural temperature changes through the winter and spring, which is really what seeds need for successful germination.

Beyond growing from seed, let’s investigate the other ways to get started with Saskatoons.

From Cuttings

Saskatoon serviceberry plants can be rooted by taking hardwood or softwood cuttings, but softwood cuttings have a higher rate of success.

If you plan to take cuttings from a wild shrub, I recommend tasting the fruit first to make sure it’s to your liking.

For softwood cuttings, in mid to late June, remove a young, tender branch with a sharp knife. This piece should be about six inches long.

Prepare a container with potting mix or soil. This container should be at least four to six inches deep to provide ample room for root development.

Pinch the leaves off of the lower half of the cutting and remove any flowers if they’re present. Make a clean cut just below a node, where a leaf is attached to the stem.

Dip the cut end in rooting hormone and stick this end into the soil in your container about two inches deep. Moisten the soil with water and then cover it loosely with a plastic bag or sheet of plastic to retain moisture and warmth.

These cuttings should be growing roots by August, and will be ready to transplant outdoors by fall.

Suckers

Since most Saskatoons send out suckers freely, growing new shrubs from these suckers can be an easy and inexpensive way to produce more plants.

Suckers can be removed in spring or fall. To separate a sucker from the main plant, clear the soil away from the sucker you wish to remove and dig down carefully to expose the roots where it’s attached. Cut the sucker away from the main plant with a clean knife or sharp, clean shovel.

Transplant the divided sucker directly into the ground in a sandy bed. If you’re planting in the spring, provide shade with a shade cloth as the hot weather approaches and maintain even moisture through the first summer.

If you’re planting in the fall, make sure you keep the soil evenly moist until plants begin to go dormant in your Zone.

Transplanting

The fastest and most reliable method for obtaining a new Saskatoon serviceberry shrub is by purchasing one from a reputable greenhouse or nursery.

This ensures you’re receiving and planting the kind of Saskatoon you want, while at the same time cutting down on time spent propagating seeds, cuttings, or suckers.

Once you select your specimen and bring it home, you’re ready to plant – easy peasy!

Now it’s time for inspection. Examine the root ball and remove any damaged or dead roots.

If the roots appear tightly bound, untangle them with your fingers. Sometimes if my transplants are extremely rootbound, I’ll use a clean, sharp knife like my hori hori, to cut them apart.

Make two or three vertical cuts on the outside of the root ball about one-half to one inch deep and then use your fingers to tease the roots loose.

Once the roots are free, place your shrub into the hole. The top of the root ball should sit at the same level it was in its original container. To adjust the height, dig your hole a little deeper or scoop some soil back into the hole.

If you want to discourage suckers, you can try planting your Saskatoon about one to two inches deeper than it was in the nursery pot.

Don’t forget to add your inoculant, if you’re using one, and follow the instructions on the packet.

If you’re happy with the placement of your plant, it’s time to tuck your Saskatoon into bed.

Backfill the hole with soil, tamping gently around the roots as you work. This helps to settle in the soil around the roots and release pockets of air.

Then grab the hose or fill up a bucket from your water collection tank and give your shrub a drink.

Finally, add a three- to four-inch layer of mulch to the base of your new transplant, covering the root zone – just don’t pile it up against the stems.

Aim to keep the mulch a few inches away so it doesn’t make contact with the stems. This is important as wet mulch can cause rot to form on the stems and roots.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully planted your new Saskatoon. Let’s move on to learn all the variables that will allow it to grow to its full potential.

How to Grow Saskatoon Serviceberry

Like many native species, Saskatoon serviceberry plants are not overly demanding, and can withstand some stress.

But if you want to provide the best conditions for your shrubs to thrive, you should give them what they need to live their best lives.

Saskatoons grow well in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 9. These shrubs can tolerate some partial shade, but full sun locations will help them to produce larger yields of high-quality fruits.

If you’re planting these shrubs for ornamental purposes only, they can take a bit of shade – but if you’re hoping to harvest juicy, sweet berries, you’re better off choosing a full sun location.

Saskatoons prefer well-drained soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 8.0. While they’ll grow in sandy soil, and will even tolerate clay soil, they perform the very best in fertile, loamy soil.

So, as with the full sun variable, if your goal is to produce good quality fruit and achieve high yields, aim to plant in loamy soil.

Depending on the variety, Saskatoons grow at a slow to moderate rate. They will typically begin to produce fruit at about three to four years old, but will reach full production after about six to eight years.

As I mentioned earlier, depending on the variety and growing conditions, Saskatoons can reach a maximum height of about 26 feet tall if left unpruned. These plants also sucker from the base, expanding their root zone as they mature – they can spread up to 10 to 20 feet wide if the suckers aren’t removed or controlled.

For this reason, when you’re planning your planting site and location, think ahead about spacing for these plants. Check the label or nursery tag for the maximum height and width of the variety you’re planting, and space according to the mature size.

Keep in mind that you can control the size of Saskatoons through regular pruning, which I’ll discuss a little later on in this article.

Saskatoons are fairly drought tolerant, in their natural habitat, they can survive on the amount of water they receive through regular rainfall.

How much water should you give them and how often? New Saskatoon plantings require consistent moisture until they’re established. This means you should feel the soil three to four inches beneath the surface and if it’s dry, give it a drink of water.

Once established, you can transition to a regular watering schedule as needed based on your local weather conditions.

When these shrubs are new, water them at the base near the stems. After they become established, aim to water them all the way out to the dripline where the feeder roots are located.

If you receive regular rainfall, you shouldn’t need to provide any additional water. But if your region is experiencing a dry spell or drought, you should give your serviceberry additional water to ease the stress of the unusually dry conditions.

During exceptionally dry times, use a spade or shovel to dig down in the dirt within the root zone of the shrub about six to nine inches. If the soil is cool and damp, you don’t need to water. If it is dry, then it’s time to irrigate.

Growing Tips

• Choose a location with full sun for maximum fruit production.
• Plant in loamy, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0.
• Provide additional water during dry spells or drought.

Pruning and Maintenance

Since Saskatoons grow at a slow to moderate rate, you won’t need to spend a lot of time pruning. You can remove diseased or damaged wood at any time.

Pruning to control or maintain shape and size should be done in the fall or winter when it’s easy to see the bare branches.

Every two to three years, remove a few branches from the base of the shrub. This will allow light to reach the interior of the plant and will also encourage adequate air circulation between the branches.

As your Saskatoon shrub becomes less productive with age, you can chop the whole plant down to about six inches above the soil surface.

This hard pruning will rejuvenate the plant and when it grows back it should start producing fruit within two to three years.

Suckers might be desirable if you’re trying to grow a hedge or fill in a large open area or plot of land. But if you’re trying to control the spread of your plant, you’ll need to remove suckers as needed.

You can remove suckers at any time of the year, but I recommend making this part of your regular maintenance routine, in either the spring or fall.

Each spring, top up the layer of mulch around the root zone of your trees. Expand the area on the ground outward as the plant grows to match the drip line. The drip line is approximately equal to the spread of the branches above ground.

Mulch breaks down as it ages through the year and as it does, it builds and adds nutrients to the soil. It also creates a barrier on the surface of the soil that helps to conserve moisture and keep weeds at bay.

Organic mulches like wood chips are my recommendation. I mix my wood chips with composted manure at least every other year to provide additional nutrients for my fruiting trees and shrubs, including my Saskatoons.

Like many native plants, Saskatoons don’t require heavy fertilization. Also, their shallow root systems absorb fertilizer more quickly than other shrubs do. For this reason, definitely avoid applying fertilizer to new transplants.

Fertilizer should only be used if your soil is nutrient deficient. Test your soil to determine if additional nutrients are needed.

If you apply fertilizer, go with an organic balanced fertilizer, with an even ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), like 10-10-10, and feed your plant once in early spring.

Also, if the package doesn’t give you specific instructions for Saskatoons, limit the amount to less than half of what you’d normally use to fertilize other shrubs.

To improve your soil naturally, you can boost the populations of good bacteria and microbes by amending with well-rotted manure or compost, and protecting the ground with mulch or ground cover plants.

We need to talk about weeds. Some gardeners detest weeding, but I actually enjoy it. It’s like a calming meditation for me, and very gratifying to pull out a weed with its roots intact, like if I’ve won a prize!

Since Saskatoons have a shallow root system, weeds and grass can compete for nutrients, and this can stunt their growth.

If you’ve mulched around the base of your shrub, weeding shouldn’t take too long as mulch suppresses weed growth. Do a visual check once per week and pull out any offenders.

Saskatoons don’t require any special winter care. The only thing I would suggest is that you provide protection from hungry herbivores.

During the winter, if other vegetation is scarce, tender trunks and stems can become a desirable snack for animals like rabbits. So, protect your plant with some kind of barrier. I’ll discuss this further on in the article, so read on for more information.

This cultivar is slow-growing, reaching a maximum size of six feet tall and wide, making it a good choice for home gardens.

The fruits of ‘Lee 8’ are of exceptional quality and flavor and are ready to harvest in early July. This cultivar is known for minimal suckering, and it offers vibrant orange to red fall foliage.

Northline

Originating in Beaverlodge, Alberta, Canada, ‘Northline’ grows in Zones 2 to 8.

The shape of this cultivar is upright and spreading, and it suckers freely. ‘Northline’ reaches about 10 to 13 feet wide and if allowed to sucker, can reach up to 20 feet wide, making it a good choice for hedging, or where it has space to sprawl.

This cultivar’s fruit is large and fleshy with a tangy flavor. The berries also usually ripen consistently at the same time, around the middle of July.

‘Thiessen’ blooms early in the spring and the dark green foliage turns yellow in fall. This cultivar is known for its large, juicy fruits with good flavor.

It’s a prolific producer, and the berries ripen over a longer period of time, making it a good choice for home gardens or u-pick operations.

Managing Pests and Disease

As most native plants are, A. alfolia is not generally bothered by pests and diseases.

Foraging animals might take a nibble here and there, insects might do some minor damage, and some diseases might pose a threat, but overall these plants are pretty tough.

But if you’re like me, and your goal is to harvest enough fruit to eat and cook with, you’ll need to address any issues as they pop up.

So, let’s take a look at a few pests that might affect your Saskatoons.

Herbivores

Especially during winter, the tender bark of young fruit trees and shrubs can be a tempting meal for bunnies.

Although I like to share some of my berries and other fruits with wildlife, if stems of my Saskatoons are chewed to bits, this could significantly impact fruit production – meaning, there won’t be any. So, it’s wise to protect your young Saskatoon shrubs with a barrier, like fencing.

If you’ve mass-planted a hedge or large area as I have with my aronia shrubs, you can fence off the group of plants.

But for fewer plants that are spaced quite far apart, I protect them individually. Because Saskatoons are usually multi-stemmed, I recommend making an inexpensive and easy fence out of chicken wire.

Cut lengths of chicken wire from a two- to three-foot wide roll, and then shape the lengths around the base of your shrub.

Secure the ends together by bending the cut wire in on itself and then tack it into the ground with stakes so larger animals can’t easily dislodge the fence.

You’ll need to make peace with the fact that birds can be a serious issue. When the fruits begin to mature, you can bet that birds have already scoped out their new feeding ground ahead of time.

Whether you plant extra shrubs to share with wildlife, or intend to keep the fruit all to yourself, you should prepare in advance of harvest time. Birds can pick your bushes nearly clean in a matter of hours.

Lightweight bird netting has saved my harvest on a number of occasions.

You can easily drape the netting over the top of your shrubs before the fruits ripen and leave it on throughout the harvest season.

Netting allows sun and rain through to your plants while keeping the birds out and you can easily lift it to pick and replace it afterwards.

I recommend draping the netting all the way down to the ground, as it will keep birds from sneaking underneath.

Stake the edges of the netting into the ground or place rocks on the edges to keep inquisitive and creative creatures from finding a way in.

Once, a bird managed to get inside my netting, had a royal feast, and then it was unable to escape. I had to help it out, and let me tell you, it’s not easy to be nice to a naughty bird who left you with no berries!

Pests

Saskatoon serviceberry can withstand some insect damage, but if you’re aiming to reap a good harvest or have the best looking shrub on the block, there are a few bugs to watch out for.

Aside from common spider mites and woolly aphids, Saskatoons attract three specific insects, so let’s take a closer look.

Saskatoon Bud Moth

Saskatoon bud moths (Epinotia Bicordana) are small brown to greyish-black moths that emerge in early spring, usually in April.

Then, they mate and the females lay eggs near the base of flower buds and in crevices on twigs.

Eggs hatch in early May and then the larvae crawl to feed on developing flower buds. Larval feeding causes tiny holes on the flower buds and if you look closely, you might notice a little liquid oozing from these holes. Buds will turn yellow and usually fall off.

The larvae form a web around the growing shoots as they feed. Once the larvae can crawl, they move to the leaves and pull them together to form a tiny shelter to live in until fall.

They go through pupation in the fall and then overwinter until the next spring.

Severe infestations of Saskatoon bud moth can destroy an entire crop, so it’s important to watch for activity and monitor the population of these moths.

To control Saskatoon bud moth, you can apply dormant oil sprays before bud break in late winter or early spring.

Parasitic wasps will feed on the larvae, so encourage biodiversity in your gardens and orchards. You can also try applying a biological pesticide like Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk).

Saskatoon Sawfly

Saskatoon sawflies (Hoplocampa Montanicola) are yellow fly-like insects with brown markings and emerge in late May. The females lay eggs on the flowers from spring through flower drop.

Eggs hatch one to two weeks later, and the larvae feed on the developing fruit. The crawling larvae take about 45 days to reach maturity and then drop from the fruit sometime in June.

They enter the soil and overwinter and then complete their pupation, emerging as flies the following spring.

You might notice tiny scars on unripe, green fruit, barely visible to the naked eye, at only one or two millimeters in size. Larger fruit could have visible holes in them.

Fruit that has been occupied by larvae might look like empty black shells, they may fall from the plant, or they’ll be difficult to pick. An infestation of Saskatoon sawfly can cause extensive loss and damage to a crop.

Inspect your plants during flowering and check fruits for holes. You may not notice these insects until your fruit has already developed, so the use of chemicals won’t help at that point.

Cleaning up plant debris, using dormant oil sprays, and introducing or encouraging parasitic wasps are your best methods of control.

Tarnished Plant Bug

Also known as lygus bug, the tarnished plant bug (Lygus lineolaris) is a small, hard-bodied insect measuring about a quarter of an inch long. It has a distinctive marking on its back in the shape of the letter “V”.

Adults and nymphs feed on the flower buds by piercing them and extracting fluids, preventing the formation of fruits.

Adults can fly, so they will move throughout your garden to feed and breed. Lygus bugs don’t have a larval stage, but they do overwinter in plant debris, so it’s best to control weeds and clean up debris where they will lay eggs.

One of the best natural control methods is row covering. For compact, short cultivars or shrubs pruned for size control, this works well, but will be a challenge for taller shrubs.

Another natural control methods is the introduction of insect predators like parasitic wasps.

As small-scale gardeners are unlikely to experience serious infestations, chemical control is usually unnecessary. Clean up debris, prune to maintain a shrub size that you can cover if necessary, and encourage predatory insects.

Disease

Saskatoons are hardy plants, resistant to most diseases. However, there are a few specific diseases to watch for:

Black Witch’s Broom

Black witch’s broom, caused by the fungus Apiosporina collinsii, is a common disease that affects A. alnifolia.

The fungus causes clusters of weak shoots to grow from a single point on a branch, often occurring randomly on the shrub, which look like “brooms.”

You may notice dark greenish or grey felt-like spots on the underside of leaves, which are the fruiting bodies. The leaves will look yellow and stunted at first, before turning black.

This disease usually takes hold as a result of too much moisture or humidity. Fungicides are ineffective and not recommended.

Instead, prune away affected plant material and clean up debris around the affected plants. Regular pruning to encourage air circulation between the branches will help to prevent this disease.

Fireblight

Fireblight is caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora, and Saskatoons are quite susceptible to infection.

It can destroy young shoots and flower blossoms, cause dieback of branches, and if the disease progresses it can kill the plant.

You might notice the bark at the base of stems and branches looking water-soaked. Then dark, sunken cankers usually form, and eventually dry out.

Affected branches appear burned or take on a deep rust color. Dead leaves and fruit will turn dark and shrivel, but usually remain attached on stems.

Fireblight is contagious and it can spread from diseased plants to your healthy specimens by way of wind, rain, and your gardening tools.

Sanitary gardening practices can help immensely, so be sure to clean your tools regularly. Prune away any infected branches and dispose of them in the garbage.

Pruning doesn’t always stop it from spreading, so monitor the shrub closely for another season.

Chemicals can’t effectively control this disease. In advanced cases, you should remove the whole shrub, including the roots and dispose of it in the trash, not the compost pile.

Avoid planting in the same spot, and consider treating nearby trees and shrubs with a copper-based fungicide for the next season.

Rust

Cedar apple rust, or juniper apple rust, is caused by the fungus Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae that travels between plants in the Rosaceae family and members of the Cupressaceae family, which includes cedars and other junipers.

It will appear as bright orange spots on the leaves of your Saskatoon and rarely causes deadly damage.

If your shrub has rust, remove as much of the damaged foliage and branches as you can and dispose of or burn them.

Then be sure to inspect any nearby junipers and cedars for obvious galls in the late fall through the winter. Remove any affected plant material you find and dispose of it.

Fungicides are only recommended for ornamental specimens. Don’t spray your developing fruit with fungicides.

Harvesting

Saskatoon fruit is easy to harvest. The pomes, or berries, are usually ready to pick in June or July, depending on the cultivar you are growing and local conditions where you live.

The fruit is ripe when it is dark purple to almost black in color. It should still be slightly firm, but not hard, and conversely not overripe and squishy. The size will be similar to that of blueberries, and it should have a mild, sweet taste.

Certain cultivars can be a bit more tart or tangy than others. Test out a few berries before picking your whole bounty to be sure they taste good!

Pick the berries by hand, and aim for mid to late morning after the dew has evaporated but before the sun is too far overhead and it’s hot. This is the perfect time as the fruit will be firm, dry, and cool, rather than squishy, making them easier to pick.

You’ll notice that the fruits won’t always ripen at the same exact time, all at once. You might need to do multiple picking sessions to get your full harvest.

After picking, the berries should be washed and then used immediately for best quality and freshness or stored for later use. I’ll discuss storing berries in the next section.

Saskatoon berries deteriorate if not kept cool after harvesting, so if you’re out picking for a while without the ability to refrigerate your berries right away, bring a cooler.

Storing and Preserving

Sort through your Saskatoon berries, removing debris, leaves, and damaged berries. 

Rinse them gently under cool running water, strain them in a colander, and then pat them dry with a clean towel.

Let the berries completely air dry after rinsing and patting off most of the moisture. This keeps them from going soft in storage.

Saskatoon berries retain their freshness if stored in the vegetable drawer or crisper in your refrigerator for up to two weeks.

You can also freeze your harvest for later use. Place the berries in a single layer on a baking sheet and set it in the freezer until they are frozen solid. Transfer them to an airtight container or resealable plastic bag and keep them in the freezer for up to a year.

Dehydration is another smart way to preserve your Saskatoons. In a dehydrator, spread the clean, dry fruits on a tray and then dehydrate them at a low temperature, around 135°F (57°C), for eight to 12 hours.

Store dehydrated berries in an airtight container or plastic zip-top bag. These can be kept in a cool, dark spot like a cabinet for several months.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Saskatoon fruits are sweet, sometimes tangy, and some people say they have a hint of nuttiness to them.

This flavor profile makes them versatile for use in both sweet and savory dishes.

You can use them to make jams, jellies, and syrups as you might with other berries or fruit.

All kinds of baked goods are fantastic made with Saskatoons. Breads, muffins, pastries, and pies – or simply use Saskatoons instead of blueberries, raspberries or other small fruits for a new take on your old favorites.

During the last year or two, I’ve become obsessed with clafoutis, which is a French dessert that falls somewhere in the intersection between a custard, a tart, and a cake.

I’ve experimented with many different fruits in my clafoutis and I’ve even baked them in my outdoor wood oven, which takes the experience to another level.

Try Saskatoons in a clafoutis recipe. You won’t regret it. This recipe for red fruit custard cake on our sister site, Foodal, is very similar to clafoutis, so be sure to check it out.

You can also make fruit leather with Saskatoons. Just substitute the berries for other fruits like the strawberry used in this recipe for dried mango and strawberry fruit rolls, also from Foodal.

If this is the first time you’ve come across the phrase “crevice garden,” it won’t be the last. This style of gardening is on the tongues of every gardening taste maker I know and is an approach to gardening whose time has come. Crevice gardens bring together a number of elements that make them must-haves in the modern garden. They are water wise, architecturally striking, perfect for small gardens and containers, and provide ideal conditions for growing a wide range of beautiful and unusual plants. Most critical, it is a style of gardening that not only brings a striking, fresh aesthetic to the garden, it also provides ideal conditions for a wide range of plants and helps them survive whatever extremes our climates throw at them. So whether you garden in steamy North Carolina, high-and-dry Denver, or frigid Maine, crevice gardening will work for you and allow you to grow a wide range of fascinating plants.

What and why

The concept of a crevice garden is deceptively simple: It is just a series of large, flat stones set together vertically like the pages of a book, with soil between each stone, making a series of narrow, deep crevices for your plants to grow in. As plant roots begin to grow out, they hit the stones and are guided downward, plunging deep into the structure of the crevice. So instead of a wide, shallow root system, you get a deep, drought-resistant one that’s insulated from extremes of heat and cold. At the same time, the structure of a crevice garden lets water drain quickly away from the soil surface, so the crowns of plants like alpines and hardy succulents stay dry and thrive in rainy climates where they would usually rot out.

A crevice garden gives you those magical “moist but well-drained” conditions you always hear about but that don’t seem to actually exist in the real world. In a crevice, plants don’t drown in the wet or shrivel up in a drought. That is what makes growing in a crevice garden so different from trying to coax something to flourish between the pavers of your patio or a path. At the surface, it looks the same, but under that patio, the soil is heavily compacted to avoid settling, so plant roots stay shallow and only the toughest survive. In a crevice, roots plunge deep, so you can grow even the fussiest of plants with ease.

Aside from being a dreamily perfect venue for growing many plants, crevice gardens also bring kick-ass aesthetics to the garden. For me, the most powerful feature of a crevice is the balance of hard and soft. The stones are austere, and the crevices, though actually wonderful places for plants to grow, look harsh and limiting. And amid all that hard austerity, you have beautiful, delicate-looking plants that are absolutely thriving. A planted crevice garden to me speaks of beauty and life overcoming long odds and harsh conditions—symbolism we can all do with more of in our lives.

The other great visual feature that crevices provide is unity and repetition in the garden. This need for repetition is old news: Never just plant one of anything, the designers always tell us; plant in drifts and repeat key plants, colors, and forms through the garden to pull it together. I know this. I understand why it works to create a beautiful, coherent garden. But then I go to the nursery and fall in love with 20 different plants and end up planting in dramatic drifts of 1. I can’t help it—I’m a plant nerd. With garden space always at a premium, how could I possibly let repetitions of just 1 or 2 varieties take up so much valuable real estate? It can be done, but it takes a lot more control and self-restraint than I have.

But in a crevice garden, the stones—not the plants­—serve as the main unifying repetitive feature. By using the same stone throughout, you create a steady, repeated element of form, color, and texture, which draws together and makes a cohesive whole out of even a wild collection of different and disparate plants. Build multiple crevice gardens with the same stone around your property, and you’ll get even more unity, a strong, cohesive structure, and a design that will stand up to the most unrestrained of plant collections

Building one only takes a few steps When you set out to build a crevice garden, the first order of business is to choose your stone. In practical terms, all that is required is that the stones are large and fairly flat. Often the most available suitable stones are those sold as pavers for patios, but any large, flat-ish rock will work. If you already have stone in the garden, using the same material or one that looks similar will make the crevice appear more natural and integrated into the larger garden. This could mean trying to match the color of local stone that is visible in your neighborhood, buying the same pavers that you used for your patio and turning them on their side, or—if you live in an urban area—even using old, broken-up concrete (aka “urbanite”) to match the sidewalks around you. 1. Anchor the ends When you’ve got your stone and are ready to start building, the first step is to install and anchor the end stones. A crevice garden is, really, a kind of raised bed, and the stones at either end are going to wind up supporting the weight of that bed. If the garden is low, the weight isn’t that much of a concern. But if you build up very high, you need to be sure to plant the stones at the end firmly and deeply so that the whole structure doesn’t wind up leaning over and collapsing. Choose a thicker piece of stone, and then bury it up to half its length in the ground, firmly packing the soil in around it so it won’t budge. Once your end is up, you can start installing your other stones. How far apart you space them is up to you, but I’d encourage you do go closer rather than farther. The bigger the crevice, the less of the crevice effect you will get in how plants grow, and I feel that tight, small crevices give a more natural shattered-rock effect. Whatever you do, take the time to make sure each stone goes in at the same angle as the stone before it. If they’re all every which way, the final effect will just look messy. 2. Add a soil mix of sand and gravel Once your stones are placed, add a mix of sand and gravel between them. For this, you want to lean hard on fine gravel and sand (sharp rather than rounded in both cases) to give you a loose, well-drained mix that the plants will be able to quickly grow down through. I generally opt for 2/3 sand and 1⁄3 gravel. Everyone has their own ratio, but that is a good starting point. In general, in hot humid places like the Southeast, you want more gravel, and in dry places like the West, more sand. 3. Top off with gravel In the ground or in a container, finish off by topping the final inch with a fine gravel mulch that matches the stone in color. This will look great and help keep the crowns of alpine and succulent plants dry and healthy. Pour the soil mix in, use a stream of water from a hose to settle it into place, and top it up if needed. If the crevice is very high, the soil mix may wash out of the crevices in heavy rain. Once the plants are installed and rooted in, they’ll hold the soil in place, but in the meantime, place small chips of rock in the crevices along the sides to act as little dams to stop the loss of the soil. 4. Remove potting soil before planting Now you are at the best part of any new garden: planting! When shopping, look for small plants in small containers that will fit easily into your crevices. And in most cases, I recommend removing most of the potting soil from around the roots of your plants. Generally, nursery plants will be grown in a moisture-retentive media, which will hold too much water around the crown of the plant; the roots won’t be inclined to grow out of that into the drier soil mix around them. Removing the potting soil also makes it easier to fit plants into tiny crevices. Most plants will take being bare-rooted without missing a beat. Just be sure you get them planted immediately so that the exposed roots don’t have a chance to dry out. Pull the roots straight and tuck them down as deep as possible into the crevice, refill around them with your gravely sandy soil mix, and water them in.

Maintenance is minimal

Once planted up, a crevice garden should be quite low maintenance. In most climates, the well-drained gravel mulch will be too dry for most weed seeds to germinate and get established, and the small, slow-growing plants won’t need dividing regularly.

Most plants you’d use in the crevice garden are adapted to low water and lower fertility, so in rainy climates, you won’t need to irrigate at all once plants are established, and in drier places, you’ll be able to cut back the irrigation you would normally use. And fertilizer needs will also be minimal. If you want to encourage lush growth, especially in the container gardens, use a very diluted fertilizer in the spring. But most of the plants will thrive and look good with little or no supplemental fertilizer, and growing them lean will help keep them small, compact, and the right size for a smaller garden.

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5 Plants to Get You Started

An enormous variety of plants can thrive in the well-drained environment of a crevice garden. Here are a few ideas you might enjoy.

1. Alpine geranium (Erodium reichardii and cvs.) Zones: 7-10 Size: 3 to 6 inches tall and 12 inches wide Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil

2. ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ hosta (Hosta ‘Blue Mouse Ears’) Zones: 3-8 Size: 6 to 12 inches tall and 9 to 12 inches wide Conditions: Partial to full shade; medium, well-drained soil

3. Silver-edged primrose (Primula marginata and cvs.) Zones: 3-9 Size: 6 to 8 inches high and wide Conditions: Partial shade; well-drained soil

4. Cobweb hens and chicks (Sempervivum arachnoideum) Zones: 5-8 Size: 1 to 2 inches tall and 4 to 6 inches wide Conditions: Full sun; dry to medium, well-drained soil

5. Henderson’s daphne (Daphne x hendersonii) Zones: 5-8 Size: Up to 18 inches tall and wide Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil

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Joseph Tychonievich is the author of Rock Gardening and Plant Breeding for the Home Gardener. He studied horticulture, plant breeding, and genetics at the Ohio State University.

Photos, except where noted: Joseph Tychonievich

My friend Deann shared a link on how to smoke at a low temperature in a barbecue grill:

The snake method works by building a half-circle ring of charcoal around the inside edge of your circular charcoal grill. You then place a couple lit briquettes at one end of the ring – or snake – that will continuously ignite the adjacent charcoal briquettes.

The gradual lighting of the charcoal gives you consistently low and controllable temperatures over an extended period of time. You might also hear this method called the fuse.

This is ideal for meat you want to smoke for several hours without having to add more charcoal in the middle of the cook. It allows you to fire up your smoker quickly while giving you a steady, long-term heat.

When properly set-up, the snake method virtually eliminates the need for messy refueling as it can run constent for 12 – 15 hours. This is especially helpful in grills and non-dedicated smokers as they typically don’t have the insulated walls that regular smokers do for heat retention and stability.

That is why the snake method is so beneficial in grills such as the Weber Kettle. Your heat is stabilized by the charcoal snake and water pan and not insulated walls of thick rolled steel like a dedicated smoker.

Though the snake method works wonderfully in Weber Kettles and other circular grills in general, once you get the hang of it you can apply it to other BBQ pits and grills such as kamado style smokers.

I have a slab of bacon curing in the fridge right now. Our smoker has bit the dust, and this looks like a good option.

We’re tagging along with Cherry Ong today, enjoying pictures from a series of garden tours she went on last June, organized by the Vancouver Hardy Plant Society.

These photos are from the garden of Pam Frost – aka, “The Doyenne of Perennials!”

Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa, Zone 5 – 9) are always beautiful, but get absolutely show-stopping once they’re fully mature. This specimen is gorgeous, with pink flowers, and looks to be the variety ‘Satomi’, named for the granddaughter of famed Japanese nurseryman Akira Shibamichi.

A stunning huge schefflera (I think Schefflera taiwanianum, Zone 8 – 10) with gorgeous foliage.

I love this little greenhouse! What a charming and useful addition to the garden.

Arisaema consanguineum (Zone 5 – 8) has beautiful and unusual flowers in early summer, and the bold, tropical foliage looks great the whole growing season.

Beautiful combination of green ferns and a perfect bird bath to set them off. I think the fern in the front is a variety of Asplenium, but I’m not sure. Whatever it is, the color and texture is incredible.

Looking up at the trees, with a golden-leaved black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’, Zone 3 – 8) taking center stage with leaves that just glow.

We usually think of rhododendrons as being grown for their flowers… but who needs flowers when the foliage looks like this? Beautiful contrast between the old growth and the new. The Pacific Northwest is an ideal climate for countless rhododendron species and hybrids, including many with gorgeous foliage like this.

Masterwort (Astrantia major, Zone 4 – 7) grows in part shade and produces these unusual clusters of flowers backed by a ring of showy bracts. As you can see, the flowers attract lots of insect visitors looking for pollen to snack on.

The bold foliage of an oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia, Zone 5 – 9) with flower clusters just about to open.

Beautiful variegated foliage from Cornus controversa ‘Variegata’ (Zone 5 – 8)

Cherry shared so many great photos from her visit to this garden that we’re going to split them between two days, so come back tomorrow for more!

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Desert roses have been a popular choice of flower enthusiasts for ages. These enchanting flowers are adored by many, beginners and seasoned gardeners alike, thanks to their exquisite beauty and diverse array of colors and shapes.

From soft pinks to vibrant reds, there are many different shades of desert rose flowers to choose from. So, whether you want to brighten your home or create a stunning floral arrangement, the desert rose is the perfect choice.

Prepare to be captivated as we delve into the 50 shades of desert rose flowers. Welcome to the marvelous world of desert roses!

#1 – Rosette-Shaped Deep Magenta Flowers

Here’s a stunning Adenium flower display! It features striking double flowers, bursting with layers of rosette, ruffled petals in shades of deep magenta.

Look closely to see the brighter pink vertical lines on each petal. Truly a marvel to look at!

#2 – Trumpet’s Flared Bell-Shaped Flower With Rosy Pink and Soft Cream Shades

Contrasting against the backdrop of deep green foliage, this lovely desert rose flower showcases its unique shape, resembling the trumpet’s flared bell, which adds elegance to its appearance.

Notice how each petal has undulating edges and gentle curves, is brushed with rosy pink, has darker shades on its margins, and has soft cream in the center.

Noticing yellow leaves on your Desert Rose? Discover 7+ reasons why and how to fix it!

#3 – Double Flowers in Shades of White, Purple, and Reddish Pink

Prepare to be dazzled by the beauty of this desert rose tree! It boasts unique and captivating double flowers of petals with shades of white and intense fuchsia on the petal edges, deep purple, and reddish pink.

The combination of these rich and eye-catching colors and intricate patterns is definitely mesmerizing, making it nature’s artistic masterpiece!

#4 – Starfish-Shaped Flowers With Bright Red And Pale Yellow Shades

Here’s another showstopper! This remarkable desert rose showcases starfish-shaped flowers with bright red and pale yellow colors in the center.

You can also see streaks of pink vertical lines on each petal, which adds meticulous detail and elegance to the appearance!

Its captivating presence makes it the perfect choice for your unique plant collection!

Starting from scratch? Learn how to grow Desert Rose seeds for a stunning Adenium display!

#5 – Crown-Like Flowers With Delicate Yellow and Crimson Strokes

Here’s another botanical masterpiece for you! This desert rose flower is dressed in delicate shades of deep golden yellow, radiating a luminous glow.

Its delicate petals are arranged in layers, showcasing a crown-like formation with ruffled edges.

See how each petal has fiery accents of strokes of reddish-orange or brilliant crimson that evoke the grandeur of a regal rose.

What a remarkable jewel of nature indeed!

#6 – Gentle-Curved Petals With Radiant Yellow Hue

Imagine a burst of sunlight captured in a single bloom – that’s what this Desert Rose offers us all its glory. Vibrant and cheerful, its flowers exude a radiant yellow hue.

Look closer, and you’ll notice delicate gradient patterns of pale yellow to deep gold create a sense of dimension across its petals, adding depth and intrigue to the overall appearance of the flower.

Notice how the petals also unfurl in a gentle curve.

Definitely a true standout among its botanical companions!

Want more blooms? Here are 5 tips to make your Desert Rose flower like never before!

#7 – Pure White Blossoms In Symmetrical Form

This enchanting Desert Rose will definitely captivate your senses and leave you in awe.

Delicate and elegant, these blossoms showcase a pure white color that radiates a sense of purity, grace, and peacefulness wherever they bloom.

Delicate layers of velvety petals unfold, revealing a captivating, symmetrical form and lush bloom.

Its pure white color, delicate texture, and captivating shape make it a true masterpiece of nature.

#8 – Intricate Crown-Like Flowers With Pale Yellow And Fiery Crimson Color

This Desert Rose’s vibrant and bold appearance will definitely leave a lasting impression!

Its blossoms boast a fiery color palette, with petals drenched in a pale yellow and rich shade of fiery crimson, deep red, and burgundy.

Look closer, and you’ll see unique patterns and markings adorning the petals – delicate strokes of deep burgundy and maroon that create an intricate detail.

The petals feature an intricate crown-like formation that curves and overlaps, creating a sense of movement and dynamism.

#9 – Frilled Petals With Pastel Pink And Lighter Pink Shades

Look closely, and you’ll notice how the petals of this desert rose resemble delicate and elegant frills on a dancer’s tutu.

Its delicate frilled petals unfold in layers that curve gracefully outward, creating a stunning display of intricate beauty.

The petals are in shades of pastel pink, gently transitioning into lighter pink or creamy white hues towards the center. The subtle gradations bring a sense of dimension and elegance to the flower’s form.

What a mesmerizing beauty!

#10 – Ruffled Flowers With Fiery Red And Deep Peach Color

This Desert rose will truly bring a burst of color to your garden! It showcases ruffled petals that curve and overlap, creating a sense of movement as if the flower is dancing.

Notice how the color of the petals ranges from fiery reds and deep peaches to oranges and rich yellows!

This flower makes a perfect choice if you want a whimsical charm to your space!

Time to repot? Get our best tips on how to repot your Desert Rose Adenium plant safely!

#11 – Creamy White Single Flower With Variegated Leaves

Here’s another Desert rose that exudes ethereal and celestial beauty. The single flower showcases petals that are creamy white and radiate a pure and serene glow.

Notice how the petals gracefully unfurl and contrast well with the variegated leaves!

#12 – Overlapping Golden Yellow Petals With Orange Shade

What a showstopper! This Desert rose boasts petals that emerge in a vibrant blend of golden yellows, fiery oranges, and soft peaches like a sunrise.

Each petal gracefully unfolds and gently curves and mesmerizes with its unique shade, creating a wonderful blend of colors and an elegant and well-balanced form.

Look closer, and you’ll see how the petals overlap and intertwine, forming an intricate structure that adds volume and depth to the bloom!

Pruning your Desert Rose: Master the when, why, and how with our expert tips!

#13 – Creamy White Petals With Crimson Edges

Here’s another Desert rose that will surely stand out in a crowd. Its petals are creamy-white with a deep, rich crimson hue at the edges and a yellow center.

Look closely, and you’ll see the delicate contrasting darker pink edges frame the white, creating a striking contrast that accentuates the beauty of the flower.

#14 – Soft Lavender Petals With Streaks of White and Deeper Lavender

What an ethereal beauty! This Desert Rose boasts a mesmerizing shade of soft lavender and white that looks like it’s been painted by an artist.

Each petal delicately unfolds, revealing a beautiful display of delicate streaks of deeper lavender or darker purple.

This beauty of nature definitely takes center stage!

Curious about Desert Rose varieties? Explore the world of Adenium types with us!

#15 – Overlapped Creamy White Petals With Soft Pink

Here’s another breathtaking flower display! This Desert Rose dazzles with creamy white petals and soft pink that harmoniously blend together.

Look closely, and you’ll see soft pink if the delicate brushstrokes of an artist touched them.

The layers of petals overlap and unfurl curvedly, radiating an exquisite elegance with their beautifully rounded and voluptuous blooms.

A botanical masterpiece that enchants you!

#16 – Magenta Flower With Light Pink Streaks

Here’s another visual spectacle! This Desert rose boasts a magnificent shade of magenta.

Notice how the delicate gradients of magenta gracefully blend, creating a mesmerizing visual display. You can also see a vertical light pink streak on the petal.

Each petal also elegantly curves and overlaps, resembling lettuce!

Boost your Desert Rose’s growth with our fertilizer and growing tips – your plant care playbook!

#17 – Wing-Like Petals With Pale Yellow, Orange, And Bright Red Hues

Looking at this Desert Rose will definitely transport you to a world of enchantment! Its petals are delicate, and each has a shape that resembles wings.

Look closer, and you’ll see the breathtaking color palette on the wing-like petals – a stunning combination of pale yellow, orange, and bright red.

You will also see intricate details on each petal that create a sense of movement and dimension.

It’s a perfect choice if you want a pop of color in your space!

#18 – Ballgown-Like Petals With White, Red, and Pink Hues

This desert rose is definitely a sight to behold! It boasts a stunning, rich blend of white, bright red, and pink hues as it moves toward the center.

You’ll also notice faint touches of pale yellow at the center, creating a striking contrast that further accentuates the flowers’ majestic aura.

Each layer of petals resembles a ballgown or elegant flowing garment, adding to its magnificence and forming a delicate look!

#19 – Rounded Petals With a Bright Red Blend, White Streaks, And A Yellow Center

Here’s another exquisite beauty! This Desert rose showcases petals with a bright red blend, white streaks, and a yellow center.

Notice how each petal is round and curved on its edges, which forms a charming bloom.

Perfect for any space to catch anyone’s attention!

#20 – Adenium Bonsai With Different Flower Colors

For bonsai enthusiasts here, you’ll definitely love this Desert Rose. It showcases various shades of flowers – white petals with bright pink edges, yellow petals, and orange hues.

This fusion of colors creates a unique and eye-catching flower display that’s perfect for adding a burst of color to your space!

Intrigued by Desert Rose bonsai? Grow and care for your miniature Adenium with our guide!

#21 – White Hue With Various Pink Shades

Here’s another Desert Rose that’ll dazzle you! It boasts a stunning white hue with touches of bright pink to light pink shades.

Each petal elegantly overlaps, creating a voluminous and opulent bloom.

Notice how each pink shade is deeper at the bottom and becomes lighter as it moves toward the center.

A true botanical masterpiece!

#22 – Ballgown-Shaped Flower With Soft Pink and Vibrant Red Hues

This Desert Rose boasts flowers that are as unique as they are mesmerizing!

This flower showcases an exquisite blend of colors, ranging from soft pinks to vibrant reds with a touch of yellow, too!

Look closer, and you’ll also see how the petals resemble a ballgown with delicate ridges and contours that make each flower unique.

Master Desert Rose watering with our top tips and tricks for perfect hydration!

#23 – Single Petal Flower With Deep Shades Of Pink And Crimson

Here’s another Desert rose that’ll leave you spellbound with its beauty!

The Desert Rose Pomegranate showcases a single petal with a stunning fusion of vibrant colors, blending deep shades of pink and crimson.

It boasts a distinct and striking color palette, a stunning fusion of vibrant colors, blending deep shades of pink and crimson. Each petal is dipped in a rich, velvety hue, creating a sophisticated appearance.

Look closer, and you’ll see intricate lines dancing across each petal’s surface.

This flower is truly a visual feast for the eyes!

#24 – Desert Rose Bonsai With Tiny Pink And Creamy White Flowers

This Desert Rose bonsai tree will definitely bring joy and wonder to your garden!

It showcases a lovely fusion of vibrant colors, blending soft shades of pink and creamy whites.

Notice its delicate ruffles and frills that adorn the edges of each petal, adding a touch of elegance and whimsy to the flowers.

What makes it even more amazing is its tiny flowers spread across the whole tree! Perfect for adding beauty to your landscape!

Essential Desert Rose plant care tips for thriving Adenium Obesum plants – start here!

#25 – Curved Petal Flowers With a Radiant Golden Yellow Hue and Deep Pink

What an extraordinary beauty!

This Desert rose flower radiates a golden glow, with its petals shimmering with a lustrous sheen, as if it were kissed by the sun.

Look closer, and you’ll see how the petals gracefully curve and overlap with their delicate lines and patterns and the touches of deep pink across the surface of each petal.

Another botanical masterpiece that shines in radiant splendor!

#26 – Layers of Overlapped Petal Flowers With Golden Yellow and Light Pink Hues

Here’s a Desert Rose that exudes a regal and majestic aura!

It showcases a lovely fusion of rich golden yellow and light touches of pink. Each petal glistens with a radiant sheen, creating a captivating and awe-inspiring visual.

You’ll also see how the layers of petals gracefully unfurl, overlap, and curve, creating a sense of movement and grace.

This flower is perfect for bringing a touch of elegance and beauty to your garden!

Is your Desert Rose suffering from root rot? Learn how to save your Adenium from this deadly issue!

#27 – Multiple Petals With Golden Yellow and Crimsom Hue

What a natural work of art! This Desert Rose Sunshine showcases multiple petals with a lovely vibrant yellow and golden with crimson hues along its petal edges.

Each petal shines radiantly as if kissed by the sun’s golden rays, and the crimson petal edges add depth to the appearance.

Look closer, and you’ll see the delicate patterns and ripples that dance across the surface of each petal, with its colors like the playful strokes of a master painter’s brush.

Its petals also gently unfurl and curve, creating a sense of movement and grace!

#28 – Multiple Petals With Deep Red And Burgundy Tones

Here’s a flower with a sense of drama and flair! This Desert Rose flower showcases multiple petals with a stunning fusion of deep red and burgundy tones.

Each petal features a rich, intense color that blends harmoniously, creating a breathtaking flower display.

Look closer, and you’ll see the delicate lines and swirls that adorn the surface of each petal, adding depth and texture to the flowers.

What a stunner!

Discover how to nurture the Swazicum Desert Rose with our Adenium Swazicum care guide!

#29 – Multiple Fringed Petals With White And Pink Hues

Here’s a whimsical beauty you’ll surely love! This Desert Rose boasts soft and delicate pastel shades of white with bright and light pink.

You’ll also see the ruffles and fringed edges adorning the multiple petals, adding depth and sophistication to the appearance.

The layers of petals also elegantly curve and overlap, resembling a piece of delicate lacework.

This flower will truly transport you to a world of enchanting beauty!

#30 – Multiple Poinsettia-Like Petals With Bright Pink And Magenta Hues

What a lovely flower display! This Desert Rose tree boasts multiple flowers with beautiful bright pink petals resembling poinsettia.

Look closer, and you’ll see the vertical line in magenta hue across the surface of each petal, resembling the delicate brushstrokes of a master artist.

The layers of petals also elegantly curve and twist, creating a sense of movement and grace!

Growing Adenium Socotranum? Here are top care tips for the Socotranum Desert Rose!

#31 – Desert Rose Bonsai With Delicate Pure White Flowers

Here’s another pure and ethereal beauty! This Desert rose features delicate white petals that glow radiant and pure brilliance.

The white hue is so crisp and pristine, creating a visual spectacle that is both captivating and serene.

Notice how the layers of petals also unfurl gently, adding a sense of grace and elegance.

You’ll definitely feel at peace while looking at this flower in your space!

#32 – Pink Multi-Petals With Frilled Edges

Here’s another Desert rose you’ll truly want in your collection! It features multi-petals with harmonious pink and peach hues.

You’ll also notice how the colors fade to a lighter pink toward the center.

What makes this flower even more lovely is how the petals overlap and unfurl with curves or frills on the petal edges.

This is perfect for your Adenium collection, adding a pop of color to your space!

Dive into Adenium Arabicum care and grow the majestic Arabicum Desert Rose with ease!

#33 – Deep Burgundy And Velvet-Toned Multi-Petals

Be captivated by this Desert rose’s mysterious beauty! It showcases a stunning blend of deep and rich shades of burgundy, maroon, and velvet black.

Each petal exudes a striking and dramatic intensity as if painted with a brush dipped in pure midnight.

Notice how the multi-petals sensually curve and overlap with the velvety texture graces the surface.

The deep burgundy and velvet-toned black colors truly create a true botanical masterpiece!

#34 – Unfurled Petals With Deep Burgundy, Maroon, And Black Hues

What a bewitching and dramatic display! This Desert Rose showcases a compelling fusion of deep burgundy, maroon, and black petals.

Each petal emanates striking and intense darkness that appears so deep and mesmerizing!

You’ll also see the petals unfurl in a dramatic and dynamic fashion.

If you want to add drama and depth to your space, this Desert rose is perfect for you!

Unveil the secrets to growing the Black Desert Rose – care tips for the rare Black Adenium!

#35 – Single Petal Desert Rose With Pink, Magenta And Crimson Hues

Here’s another timeless and exquisite beauty you should have in your collection! This Desert rose boasts delicate shades of pink and romantic tones of magenta and crimson with yellow in the center.

Notice how the tones of magenta and crimson streaks spread across the single petal’s surface like colored veins, adding texture and depth to the appearance.

This will truly transport you to a world of classic beauty and grace!

#36 – Multi-Colored Flowers In Shades Of Pink, Yellow, And Peach

Here’s another unique Desert rose. This boasts multi-colored flowers in one tree.

Notice how each flower has a different appearance, adding diversity to the display.

One type has bright to light hues of pink with frills and curves on the petal edges, while the other has pale yellow to peach petals with maroon vertical streaks on the surface of the petals!

This is definitely a perfect choice if you want a quirky display to your space!

Fight back against pests and diseases with our guide on controlling Adenium Desert Rose issues!

#37 – Triple Petal Flower With Pearl White And Pink Shades

What an ethereal beauty! This Desert rose showcases a triple petal with pearl white and light pink shades, resembling a rose flower.

Notice how the pure white petals are softly brushed with light pink, with the color like flawless pearls that exude elegance and purity.

The triple layers of petals also gracefully open and unfold, making the flower display even more calming!

You’ll definitely love this in your collection!

#38 – Multi-Petal With Deep Red, Light Pink, and Yellow Shades

Here’s another Desert rose that exudes enchantment and beauty! It features multi-petals in deep shades of red to delicate pink and pale yellow toward the center, each petal creating a magical display.

Look closer, and you’ll see the intricate patterns and textures that grace the surface of each petal, like gentle brushstrokes from an artist’s hand.

You’ll also see how the layer of petals gracefully curls and twists as if the flower is dancing in a gentle breeze.

Definitely a stunner when you see one!

Is the Desert Rose dangerous? Find out if Desert Roses are poisonous or toxic to pets and people!

#39 – Flared Petals With Shades Of Red, Orange, And Yellow

Here’s another botanical treasure that’ll enchant you! This Desert Rose showcases brilliant shades of red, orange, and yellow; the vibrant hues blend harmoniously.

Notice how the shape and structure of the flowers enhance their distinctive beauty as the petals gracefully unfold and flare outwards.

This is the perfect choice to fill your garden with radiance!

#40 – Frilled Multi-Petals With Crimson Red, Orange, and Yellow

What a showstopper! This Desert Rose Rotary Dancer showcases vibrant crimson red, orange, and yellow colors!

Notice how multi-petal layers spiral and curl gracefully, creating a sense of motion like a dancer in a graceful performance.

You’ll also see the frills and curves in each petal, which add depth and complexity and make each flower a unique and mesmerizing work of art.

You’ll definitely love this in your collection!

#41 – Multi-Petals In Shades Of Peach, Yellow, and Red Streaks

Prepare to be transported to a realm of otherworldly wonder with this Desert rose! It boasts multi-petals with delicate shades of peach, yellow, and red streaks.

Look closer; you’ll see each petal’s intricate patterns and textures, which add depth and unique character as an artist brushes it.

You’ll also see the petals gracefully unfurl and curve as if dancing in the cosmic breeze. The curves and frills on the petal edges add beauty to the flower, too!

This flower is truly a unique and breathtaking work of art!

Battling aphids on your Desert Rose? Eradicate aphid pests with these effective strategies!

#42 – Multi-Petals With Shades Of Deep Purples, Light Pink, And Velvety Magenta Streaks

Here’s another majestic Desert rose for you!

It boasts beautiful multi-petals with shades of deep purples, light pink, and velvety magenta streaks on the petals’ surface that blend harmoniously.

Each petal boasts a regal intensity that adds a touch of royalty to any garden.

Notice how the layers of petals create a regal presence, resembling the folds of a majestic robe worn by a member of royalty.

This will definitely bring a touch of royal beauty to your outdoor sanctuary!

#43 – Frilled Multi-Petals In Shades Of Pink, Red, And Purple

What a stunner! This Desert Rose features multi-petals with shades of light pink, deep red, and purple.

Notice how the deep red streaks across the petals’ surface and the purple is brushed at the bottom petal.

Each petal is wavy and layered with frills or curves at the edges, unfolding in a mesmerizing pattern like wings.

You’ll definitely love this as a pop of color to your garden!

#44 – Mult-Petal Flower With Delicate Peach And Red Hues

Imagine being greeted by flowers like this in the morning! This Desert rose showcases a stunning fusion of delicate peach and deep red that radiates with a subtle, ethereal glow.

Look closer, and you’ll see the delicate patterns and textures that grace the surface of each petal, transforming each blossom into a captivating work of floral art.

The layers of petals, especially its center, also create a soft and inviting presence reminiscent of the gentle folds of a delicate fabric.

This flower will transport you to a realm of tranquility and serenity!

Outdoor enthusiasts, learn how to grow Adenium outside with our desert rose care tips!

#45 – Single Petal Flower With Bright Yellow, Orange, And Crimson Red Hues

Here’s another lovely Desert Rose for your collection! This single-petal flower showcases crimson red, orange, and yellow hues that blend harmoniously.

Notice how the center of the flower looks like a small version of the flower! Amazing, right?

Look closer, and you’ll notice the delicate patterns on each petal, adding depth and character.

This will definitely catch your eye in your space!

#46 – Ethereal Multi-Petal Flower With Soft Pink, Creamy White, And Magenta

Here’s another ethereal Desert rose! It showcases a magical fusion of soft pastel pinks and creamy whites, accompanied by streams of magenta.

Notice how the flower evokes delicate radiance and enchantment, even at first sight!

Look closer, and you’ll see the delicate magenta patterns and textures that adorn the surface of each petal, resembling brushstrokes hand-painted by fairies.

The layer of petals gently unfurls and curves as well, forming a gentle and harmonious dance.

A botanical treasure that’ll imbue your garden with an ethereal and dreamlike aura!

#47 – Multi-Petals With Shades Of Crimson, Bright Red, And White

What a mesmerizing flower display! This Desert rose showcases breathtaking multi-petals with shades of crimson, bright red, and white on its petals.

Notice how the petals have a deep crimson color with their edges white, highlighting the form of the petals even more.

You’ll also notice the red color becomes brighter as it moves toward the center.

Having this flower in your garden will definitely transport you to a realm of mystery and beauty!

Wondering about the best potting mix for your Desert Rose? Find out what soil it thrives in!

#48 – Frilled Petals With Soft Yellow Hues And Bright Pink Streaks

Another must-have Desert rose for your collection! It boasts a divine fusion of soft yellows and bright pink streaks that create a heavenly beauty.

Notice how the petal unfurls in gentle layers with frills, resembling the delicate skirt of a dancer in motion!

The pink streams on each petal also add depth and a sense of elegance to the flower display!

This flower is the perfect choice if you want to infuse your garden with a sense of tranquility and magic!

#49 – Multi-petal with Pale Yellow, Creamy White, and Streaks Of Bright Pink

Here’s another radiant beauty! This Desert Rose features pale yellows, creamy whites, and delicate streaks of bright pink.

Each petal emanates a soft and ethereal glow that’ll definitely enchant you!

Notice how the color blends harmoniously and creates a serene and pure display that evokes feelings of enchantment and tranquility!

A must-have Desert rose for your garden!

#50 – Frilled Flower Petals With Soft Pink, Creamy White Hues, And Yellow Center

Here’s a Desert Rose with whimsical and fairy-tale-like beauty! It boasts a fusion of soft pinks, creamy whites, and delicate yellow at the center.

Look closer, and you’ll see each petal has curves and frills at the edges, resembling delicate lace or the intricate patterns of a ballroom gown.

The layers of petals also form a gentle and mesmerizing dance, as if the flowers themselves are ready for a grand ball.

Truly a a botanical gem!

Explore the unique Adenium Boehmianum care guide for growing the Bushman Poison Plant!

We Tried to STOP at 50 Flowers but had to share these too!