Category: Home & Garden

Grow lights don’t have to be an expensive, fancy thing you splurge on as a gardener. You can really up your gardening game by making your own inexpensive DIY grow light shelf set-up. I’ll take you step-by-step into how I made my plant shelf with grow lights.

Grow lights are one of the most useful tools for gardeners who grow lots of vegetables or who are starting a garden from scratch. You can jumpstart the gardening season by starting the seedlings indoors and using grow lights to help give them a boost when the sunlight is still returning to us.

If you’re starting seeds this year, your seeds will have been planted in homemade starters or store bought containers and germinated. Those baby plants may not be ready to hit the harsh outdoors yet, but they need enough light to grow.

This DIY plant shelf with grow lights will help you fashion your very own indoor grow op by using an inexpensive Ikea shelving unit and some utility lighting.

This post will cover…

Store-Bought Mini Greenhouses

In past years I have used a 4-tier wire shelf which allows me to grow eight trays of seedlings into large plants. I can continuously move the shelves to make more room for taller plants. It comes with a greenhouse cover that makes the perfect transition to the outdoors to harden off seedlings.

I use this 4-tier wire shelf as an outdoor greenhouse when potting the seedlings into larger pots. I decided to make something a little neater for the starts as the shelf was in a prominent place in my office.

It’s quite easy to make your own grow light shelf set-up at a fraction of the price.

Plus, I needed more room indoors for my air plants, terrariums, and all my other plant babies. Window space is a hot commodity! I’ve seen many inexpensive shelving units from Ikea get used for a few projects by fabulously stylish gardeners, and I gave it a try myself.

Designing a Plant Shelf With Grow Lights

Carrie from Read Between the Limes’s $29.99 IKEA Seed Starting Rack inspired this project. Her shelf has fewer lights and adorable seed and soil supply labels. Make sure you check out Carrie’s blog for the instructions on how she set up her shelf and lots of great ideas on gardening with kids.

The original shelf used for this project, the IKEA GORM, is no longer available. However, many of IKEA’s other shelving units would work. Alternatively, look online on Facebook Marketplace or in groups to see second-hand shelves you can turn into your grow light shelf.

I added to Carrie’s setup by using six lights on the top three shelves, which was the perfect amount of light to prevent the seedlings from becoming too leggy. Each tray will have two lights shining directly on it.

All the lights are on chains and have hooks, so I can adjust the light position as the plants grow.

For the seedlings, I also included a heat mat underneath. There, I rest the new seedlings on the heat mat with a plastic cover to keep the heat in. The lights remain OFF until I see signs of germination, then I turn the lights on.

How to Avoid Leggy Seedlings Under Grow Lights

Tall, spindly (aka leggy) seedlings do not give your plants a great start.

It’s not the end of the world, but it indicates that the plants are not getting enough light which is stressful for them. Growing tall and skinny can cause the plants to flop over and break or be damaged.

The best remedy for leggyness is to provide enough light and the right kind of light. For most home growers wanting to start a few seedlings, standard fluorescent utility lights work just fine.

If you can find inexpensive lights specifically made for growing plants, they may have a high colour temperature that more closely mimics the sun (and they are pink!). These can be very expensive, and for the price, the results are not that much different than standard fluorescent bulbs, so save your bucks and buy a “daylight” bulb instead.

Grow lights should be placed just above the plants. This is why you want your grow light shelf to have adjustable lights. As the plants grow, you slowly raise the light. When the grow light reaches the top, the plants should be planted or potted outside.

If you have leggy plants, re-pot them in deeper pots with the soil line all the way up to the seed leaves (the first leaves that appeared when they sprouted). All that extra stem can be tucked under the soil for protection, and the leaves will have a fresh start.

DIY Plant Shelf With Grow Lights

If you want to mimic my grow light shelf set-up, here’s exactly how to do it. It truly isn’t a difficult project, and for the size of it, is much cheaper than anything else you could buy.

Materials

Make It!

1. Assemble the shelving unit as per instructions. Space top 3 shelves 15” apart; these will be your growing shelves. Space the remaining 2 shelves as you desire from the bottom; these will be supply shelves.

2. Screw 2 hooks to the underside on both the front and back board, spaced 2” in from the width of the lights.

3. Tie wire or string around the light and affix the end of a length of chain to each side. Simply hang the other end of the wires on the hooks at about 1” above the seedlings. Continue to raise the lights as the seedlings grow.

4. I plug all the lights into a power bar to easily turn them on or off the whole thing with one switch. You can also use an affordable Christmas light timer to turn the light on automatically. Start by giving your seedlings 8 hours of light daily and slowly increasing to 12 hours. This mimics the increase in light the plants get as the seasons change and the days get longer.

I place the lights so it’s just barely touching the plastic covers or plants. Raise them as the plants grow.

Other Grow Light Shelf Options

Now don’t think you must have a dedicated area specifically for seed starting indoors. My friend Sam sent me some great photos of the Victory Garden’s office where they have seeds growing all over the place. I particularly love them growing under the desk–what a smart use of space!

I also have a grow light countertop set-up. This is a much smaller operation that grows food indoors year-round, primarily microgreens and lettuce. A countertop garden works great for someone who wants access to fresh, homegrown greens no matter the time of year. 

Frequently Asked Questions About Grow Light Shelves

More About Seed Starting

Collaborative post

Your home should be your sanctuary – a place where you can retreat, relax and recharge. But have you ever considered how your home’s interior could influence your health and wellbeing?

In this article we’ll explore some innovative decor hacks that not only add style and charm to your living space, but also contribute to a healthier home environment.

1. Embrace natural light

Natural light is one of nature’s best mood boosters. It aids in regulating our circadian rhythms, improving mood and enhancing productivity. So, throw open those curtains and let the sunlight flood in. If your home doesn’t receive much sunlight, consider installing mirrors opposite windows to reflect and amplify natural light.

2. Choose low-VOC paints

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are chemicals found in many paints. They can evaporate into your home’s air and potentially cause health problems. For this reason, it’s a good idea to choose low-VOC paints. These eco-friendly alternatives are now available in an extensive range of colours, enabling you to create a vibrant and healthy home in any style you desire.

3. Incorporate plants

Indoor plants do more than just look pretty. They can improve air quality by absorbing toxins and releasing oxygen. If you struggle to keep plants alive there are lots of varieties, like snake plants and succulents, for example, that require minimal effort and can withstand neglect. If you’re short on floor space, hanging plants or even a living wall will deliver on beneficial greenery.

4. Opt for natural materials

Synthetic materials can often release chemicals into the air. Opt for natural materials such as cotton, wool, and linen for soft furnishings, and wood, bamboo, or metal for furniture. Not only do these materials look and feel more inviting, they’re also kinder to your indoor air quality.

5. Use a lecturn for reading

This may sound odd, but if you read a lot, or work from home, a lecturn can be a stylish and practical addition. It promotes better posture by elevating your reading material or device, reducing neck strain and potentially preventing back issues.

6. Keep your clutter under control

A cluttered space can cause your mind to become very cluttered too. It can increase stress levels and reduce your ability to focus. Invest in stylish storage solutions such as woven baskets, chic shelving units, or multi-functional furniture with built-in storage. A clear, organised space promotes a sense of tranquility and wellbeing.

7. Pay attention to lighting

Proper lighting is crucial for our eye health. Opt for adjustable lighting solutions that can be dimmed or brightened according to the time of day and the task at hand. Consider blue light filters for lamps in spaces where you use digital devices to reduce eye strain.

8. Install an air purifier

Indoor air can sometimes be more polluted than outdoor air due to dust, pet dander, and various chemicals that could harm your family’s health. An air purifier can improve indoor air quality, helping to reduce allergies and respiratory problems. There are many sleek and compact designs available that can blend seamlessly with your decor.

9. Add in some aromatherapy

Certain scents can have a powerful impact on our mood and stress levels. Consider adding an essential oil diffuser to your home, and experiment with different scents like lavender for relaxation, peppermint for concentration, or lemon for a mood boost. Just be aware that if you have pets, many essential oils can be toxic for them and so may not be suitable for your home.

10. Design a dedicated relaxation space

Whether it’s a cosy reading nook, a yoga corner, or a cushion-filled window seat, you can create a space dedicated to relaxation. Fill it with things you love and add a soft throw, a good book, or a sound machine with calming nature sounds. That way no matter how stressful your day may have been, you will always have a place to recuperate.

When you start to view your home decor through the lens of health and wellbeing, you’ll see that even the smallest changes can have a significant impact. By adopting some of these decor hacks, you’ll not only create a beautiful and inviting space, but you’ll also craft a happier and healthier home.

Cherry Ong has visited the beautiful gardens at Government House in Victoria, British Columbia, which is the official residence of the lieutenant governor of British Columbia. More to our interests, however, it is set in 36 acres of beautiful gardens. Here are some incredible views that Cherry captured.

Check out this floriferous explosion of lewisia (Lewisia longipetala, Zones 5–8) on this retaining wall at Government House. I’ve been waiting to see how this vertical garden turned out since I first saw it newly built. It was worth the wait!

Lewisias are succulent plants native to western North America.

Lewisias make rosettes of succulent leaves and clouds of beautiful flowers.

The flowers are generally shades of pink, but they also come in soft yellows, oranges, and peaches.

Lewisias are famous for their beautiful flowers and for being a bit fussy to grow outside of their native range.

Clearly these are completely happy.

The flowers just GLOW.

But there is more to the garden than just the lewisias. It is a beautiful space all over.

Here is a beautiful detail on a gate in the garden.

I had to check out the mass of Astelia in the perennial garden bed. I always wonder if it made it through the harsh winter, and indeed it did—beautifully at that! I believe the key to its success is the protected location. The plants are in shade bordered by the fence, the gate, and a gigantic (maybe 60-feet-tall) conifer. So smart!

Here is the HUGE conifer that is helping give protection to the Astelia.

Gorgeous white Rhododendron flowers

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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I’ve always been fascinated by insects. When I was little, my father used to take us on nature walks with our butterfly nets, collecting jars, magnifying glasses, and guidebooks to learn about the insects in our area. I immediately fell in love with all things invertebrate–iridescent beetles, camouflaged walking sticks (they look like twigs!), buzzy cicadas, and especially butterflies: their fleshy caterpillars, the intricate patterns and colors on their wings, and the way they fluttered from wildflower to wildflower. My kind of heaven.

It wasn’t until later that I learned the essential role insects play in the planetary ecosystem as pollinators and distributors of seeds. Without them, life as we know it wouldn’t exist. But insects, like birds, are suffering record declines due in large part to habitat loss, pesticide use, and climate change. I want to do what I can to help these creatures who have fascinated me since I was a child, so I reached out to Matthew Shepherd, conservationist and director of outreach and education at the Xerces Society, to learn more about some of the amazing insects we can find in our gardens and what we all can do help them. Here’s what he said:

Q: What are “beneficial insects”?

A: The term beneficial insects is used describe a particular group of insects that is somehow useful to us. Typically, we’re talking about pest control for our farms or our gardens. But there are so many other insects that we’re not noticing that bring benefits to us, like those that decompose vegetation (like getting rid of leaves) or dispose of dead animals and all that kind of stuff. Here are some great beneficials to look out for:

Lady beetles. The first one we think of when we talk about beneficial insects is the native lady beetle. They don’t sting or harm humans, and they are amazing predators in both their adult and larvae forms, especially of aphids and scale insects. They’re not to be confused with the multicolored lady beetle, which is not native and overwinters in sheltered places like our homes. You won’t find the native species in your homes.

Lacewings. All insects are beautiful to me, but lacewings are particularly attractive. They have transparent wings with such a fine pattern on them and metallic, golden eyes. They’ll munch their way through aphids, mealy bugs, and caterpillars. Their larvae look like tiny little crocodiles with jaws that are kind of curved like a sickle on each side. They practically inhale their prey. They’re only about a half-inch long and will run around your hand without harming you, but watch out if you’re an aphid.

Fireflies. We tend to think of fireflies just as a beautiful and magical part of summer evenings. But they are also savage predators. They’ll eat soft-bodied insects and even earthworms and slugs. Give them welcoming places to live in your yard. [To learn more about firefly conservation, click here]

High-Protein Plants

So, you want to increase your plant-based protein intake. Which plants should you look to?

Let’s dig in!

Beans and Pulses

Black beans, chickpeas, and lentils (among many other types of beans and pulses) are all great examples of plant-based protein sources.

Pulses are the seeds of legume plants, and this category includes lentils, peas, and beans.

Black Beans

One-half cup of black beans contains seven grams of protein.

They are delicious served on their own, in dips, and smashed into homemade veggie burgers, like these from our sister site, Foodal.

You can grow your own black beans in either bush or pole varieties.

‘Black Valentine’ Black Beans

Phaseolus vulgaris ‘Black Valentine’ is a bush cultivar that promises high germination rates.

Seeds are available in a variety of packet sizes at True Leaf Market.

Chickpeas

Chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans), Cicer arietinum, offer 10 grams of protein per half cup, and a variety of culinary uses.

These seeds are not typically found in gardening stores and may need to be ordered online.

Chickpeas

Sprouting chickpea seeds are available at True Leaf Market.

Add a row or two to your own garden, and then try these smoky and spicy roasted chickpeas, also from Foodal.

Lentils

Lentils, Lens culinaris, make a great replacement for some or all of the ground meat in tacos or meatloaf. Whole lentils (not split) can be planted in early spring to grow your own.

Common varieties of lentils include green, brown, and red.

Red Lentils

One-quarter cup of lentils provides 11 grams of protein.

You can find sprouting red lentils available from True Leaf Market.

Nuts

Nuts provide protein and healthy unsaturated fats.

Nuts grow on trees, whereas peanuts – often included in this category – grow underground and are actually a type of legume.

If you’re looking to grow your own, the ‘Texas Mission’ almond tree produces beautiful white flowers and delicious nuts!

‘Texas Mission’ Almond Tree

Trees in #3 containers are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

Pecans are another popular tree nut to grow at home. One half-cup offers six grams of protein and an additionally beneficial six grams of dietary fiber.

Almonds have six grams of protein per quarter cup, as do pistachios. One ounce of peanuts contains seven grams.

Soy

Soybeans, or edamame, are one of the most prevalent protein sources used in plant-based alternatives to meat and dairy products.

Soy milk, soybean burgers, soy protein powders, and tempeh (fermented soy) are just a few examples.

Another type of legume, soy sometimes has a bad rap, as consuming this member of the legume family has been linked with certain cancers and lower testosterone levels.

These claims are not founded in solid research, and eating a moderate amount of soy-based products is perfectly healthy for most individuals.

Edamame, or plain steamed soy beans, provide nine grams of protein per 1/3 cup.

One cup of nonfat soy milk provides six grams of protein, close to that of cow’s milk.

Many commercial soy milks also have a higher amount of added sugars, so this is something to be aware of when purchasing.

Growing your own soy is easier than you may expect.

‘Chiba Green’ Soy

Try this ‘Chiba Green’ organic variety, available from Burpee.

Additional Sources

Other plant-based foods offer protein as well.

Some garden veggies provide smaller amounts of protein, which can add up when consumed throughout the day.

Kale packs 2.9 grams per cup, mushrooms offer 2.2 grams, broccoli provides 2.5 grams, and artichokes contain three grams.

Whole grain products like wheat bread or brown rice are generally higher in protein than their refined counterparts. Brown rice has eight grams of protein in a half cup.

Seeds are also a source of protein that may come as a surprise to those not in the know.

Pumpkin seeds offer eight grams of protein in 1/4 cup, and 1 ounce of sunflower seed kernels contains five grams.

‘Jack-O-Lantern’

‘Jack-O-Lantern’ pumpkins are a great all-around choice for carving, baking, and for seeds.

To start your own pumpkin patch, you can find seeds available at Eden Brothers and you can read more about growing your own here.

‘Mammoth’ Sunflower

‘Mammoth’ sunflowers grow large heads, meaning plenty of seeds!

Find packets of 150 seeds available at Burpee.

Check out this guide to learn how to harvest homegrown sunflower seeds.

Ornamental peppers are technically edible, but are not considered particularly tasty. Many are also quite high on the Scoville scale, meaning they can be eye-wateringly spicy. See our full guide to growing hot peppers for more information.

Despite having “annum” – Latin for “annual” – in their name, these plants are not true annuals. They are frost-intolerant perennials, and native to southern North America and northern South America.

In the United States, they are hardy only in Zones 9b through 11. In most of the country, these plants are grown outdoors as annuals, or grown in containers and brought indoors to overwinter.

These plants produce small flowers – with color that varies by type – beginning in May, followed by peppers that remain on the plant until the first frost.

Let’s learn more!

Propagation

Some gardeners have had luck propagating ornamental peppers from cuttings, but this can be tricky.

Starting from seed or, better still, purchasing potted plants or seedlings from a nursery, are the best – and quickest – ways to get started.

From Seed

You’ll want to start seeds indoors in a rich potting soil 10 to 12 weeks before your expected last frost date. Plant seeds 1/8 inch deep and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.

Place the seed trays or pots in a warm place or on a warming mat set at 75°F. They need temps of 75 to 80°F to germinate, which typically takes about two weeks.

Being tropical plants, chilis like a lot of light.

A sunny windowsill can be sufficient, but if there are trees or fences obstructing the light, you might want to consider using grow lights to get them off to a good start.

Position your lights above the tiny plants once the seeds have germinated.

After about eight weeks of growth, they are ready to be transplanted outdoors – provided all risk of frost has passed – or to a larger pot.

From Cuttings

If you want to try your hand at propagating ornamental peppers from cuttings, choose a healthy plant and trim off any dead or dying foliage.

Use a clean garden knife or sharp pruners to cut a five-inch-long stem, making sure that it has at least two leaf nodes. These are small swellings on the stem that will eventually sprout new leaves.

Cut on a diagonal to maximize the surface area to allow for greater water absorption, the way you would when trimming flowers in a cut arrangement.

Strip the leaves from the bottom two to three inches of the cutting, and dip it in a powdered rooting medium.

Insert a pencil into a small pot containing well-draining potting soil with drainage holes, and remove it to create a hole for planting. Place the cutting into the hole you created.

Water, and place the cutting in a warm location. Do not allow the potting medium to dry out – keep it well watered and moist.

Transplant when your cutting has put on a few inches of growth, after about eight weeks.

How to Grow

Once your cuttings or seedlings are a few inches tall, they’ll be ready for transplanting either into containers or into your garden.

But first, remember they’ve been growing in an indoor environment and will need to adapt gradually to life outdoors.

This process is known as “hardening off” and involves putting your young chilis outside for a few hours a day, gradually increasing the time that they spend outdoors.

To begin with, place them in a sheltered spot where they won’t be buffeted by the wind.

After a week or two of keeping them indoors at night (and during inclement weather) and outdoors during the day, they should be acclimated to life in the garden.

Ornamental peppers like full sun, but in particularly hot parts of the country, they will tolerate partial shade, too.

If you’re overwintering your plant indoors, be sure to place it near a sunny window.

These plants prefer a temperature range of 55 to 65°F at night and 70 to 80°F during the day.

They like well-draining soil that’s fairly rich in organic matter. If you’re transplanting into containers, place some drainage material such as gravel in the bottom of the pot.

The size of the container will depend on whether it’ll be one component in a grouping of other ornamentals, or planted on its own.

When you’re transplanting or repotting, make sure to keep the root ball intact to prevent damaging it, and water in well. In the garden, they’ll need one to two inches of water per week.

Water container-grown plants when the top half to one inch of soil has completely dried out, and add enough water so that it drains out of the holes in the bottom of the pot.

Fertilize pepper plants with a balanced fertilizer once or twice during the summer.

Growing Tips

• Peppers appreciate fertile, well-draining soil.
• If it’s really hot out, you might need to water plants more often, but don’t allow them to become waterlogged.
• Add mulch within the growing area to retain water and discourage weeds.

Pruning and Maintenance

You can prune these plants if you want to encourage a more compact form, but pruning isn’t necessary. You can pinch the growth tips if you want to promote a more bushy plant.

To keep them looking their decorative best, be sure to remove any dead or dying foliage.

You can trim off about a half an inch of new growth from the main stem and side stems when they are about four to six inches long. Don’t trim any stems that have started flowering.

If you’re growing them in a container, you’ll likely need to repot every couple of years as the plant grows.

Snip off chilis when they start to dry out.

This is usually not much of an issue indoors, but keep an eye out if your pots are on patios, or in planters by the front door.

Aphids

Soft-bodied aphids enjoy sucking fluids from a wide variety of plants, and ornamental peppers are no exception. These small, pear-shaped insects cause plants to become stunted and deformed.

Blast them off with water, or use an insecticidal soap to kill them.

Cutworms

“Cutworm” is a generic name applied to the larvae of a number of moth species.

They are usually brown or gray and often mottled. They do their damage by cutting into the base of plant stems. They also like to gnaw on roots.

Get rid of these pests by sprinkling diatomaceous earth around your plants.

Find more tips on combatting cutworms here.

Pepper Maggots

These small, white pests are the larvae of a fly that lays its eggs under the skin of peppers.

The larvae snack on the inside of the peppers, damaging them by stunting their growth. You can usually detect the presence of pepper maggots by the tiny “stings” they leave in the skins of the fruit.

Use sticky traps to catch the adults before they have a chance to lay their eggs.

Whiteflies

These pests are small white flies that suck out plant juices, causing deformed plants. Control these pests with insecticidal soap or sticky traps.

Read more about whitefly control here.

Disease

A couple of diseases can plague ornamental pepper plants.

One of the hazards of growing them ornamentally is that you may be inclined to group them closer together than you would your crop plants, inhibiting airflow. Keep your plants looking fresh by removing any damaged or dying fruits and foliage.

Mosaic Virus

Plants infected by mosaic virus will exhibit white, green, or yellow spots, stripes, or streaks on their foliage. You may also see curled or wrinkled leaves, and the plant’s growth may be stunted.

This virus can be spread by aphids, so prevent it by keeping those pests in check.

Affected plants cannot be cured and must be pulled up and destroyed. Prevent viruses by practicing clean gardening practices such as keeping the growing area free of weeds and debris, using clean tools, and keeping pests at bay.

Verticillium Wilt

This disease is caused by any of six species of fungi that live in the soil and enter a plant via the roots. The disease manifests in wilted plants, and discolored and curled leaves.

Affected plants must be pulled up and destroyed. Contaminated soil may be cured via solarization, a process of heating up the soil to kill the fungus.

To do this, clear the soil of plants and debris, then till or dig up the soil. In the hottest part of the summer, wet the soil thoroughly, and cover the area with a clear plastic tarp.

Bury the edges of the tarp to trap the heat. Leave the plastic in place for 4 to 6 weeks, and then remove it.

Best Uses

Many gardeners enjoy growing ornamental peppers in containers for their decorative value, both outdoors and indoors.

These colorful plants make attractive specimens in the landscape, and also look spectacular in mass plantings.

Shorter varieties make a beautiful addition to borders.

Incidentally, small pots of ornamental peppers, wrapped in colorful cellophane and tied with a bow, are often given as gifts at Christmastime.

Some folks might know them as “Christmas peppers” because of this tradition.

1. Amprobe LM-200

If checking luminosity from LED grow lamps is on your indoor gardening and houseplant care to-do list, the Amprobe LM-200 LED light meter, available from Amazon, can help you with that task.

This device has a red plastic housing, measuring 5.1 inches long, 2.5 inches wide, and 1.5 inches deep. It weighs 7.76 ounces.

This meter has a digital display, and a measuring range of 0 to 20,000 foot candles or 0 to 200,000 lux.

Amprobe LM-200

Powered by a nine-volt battery, it is equipped with a battery cover that easily slides on and off – no screwdriver needed.

The sensor is detached, includes a protective cap, and is connected with a coiled cord that can be stretched up to five feet long.

As for operation, different buttons allow the user to choose the measurement range or to toggle between lux and foot candles.

The device has a hold button to freeze the current reading, as well as a maximum hold button to capture the highest reading.

The Amprobe LM-200 LED is most accurate when measuring white LED lamps, with a margin of error at around 3%. When measuring other light sources, it is less accurate, with an error margin of approximately 8%.

This device can be mounted on a tripod, comes with a black soft case and a nine -volt battery, and is available at an intermediate price point.

Features

• Dimensions: 5.1” x 2.5” x 1.5”
• Weight: 7.76 ounces
• Units: Foot candles, lux
• Range: 0-20,000 foot candles

Pros

• Battery cover slides off 
• Detached sensor
• Sensor cover
• Measures luminosity from white LEDs most accurately
• Mountable on tripod (not included)
• Carrying case included with purchase
• Comes with a 1-year warranty

Cons

• Coiled sensor cord
• Less accurate for all sources except white LEDs
• Does not calculate DLI
• No data logging

Think one of these bad boys needs a place in your indoor gardening or houseplant care tool kit?

You’ll find the Amprobe LM-200 light meter available for purchase from the Amprobe Store via Amazon.

2. Apogee Instruments MQ-500

The MQ-500 from Apogee Instruments, available via Amazon, is a lightweight PAR meter that can accurately measure light from all sources, including photosynthetically active radiation in the range of 400 to 700 nanometers.

Sporting an anodized aluminum body, the housing is gray, yellow, and white, and it features a digital display.

The MQ-500 has a measuring range of 0 to 4000 micromoles per second per meter squared. It’s 9.69 inches long, 6.38 inches wide, 2.32 inches thick, and weighs 6.4 ounces.

Apogee Instruments MQ-500

This device is powered by a CR2320 coin cell battery, and the battery cover screws on and off.

It features a detached sensor that has a straight, 78-inch-long cord, and comes with a protective sensor cap. The sensor can be attached to an optional telescoping wand that extends up to 33 inches for more controlled measurements beyond arm’s reach.

The device has four operating buttons in addition to the power button. The mode button provides access to the main menu, up and down arrow buttons allow the user to make selections from the menu, and the sample button allows the user to take manual readings.

Gardeners can easily log data with this light meter, which will take a sample every 30 seconds for 24 hours, and it can store up to 99 measurements. Downloading this data to a computer requires an additional cable which is not included with purchase.

Data can be downloaded to both PCs and Macs, and this model has a calibration uncertainty of approximately 5%.

This product is made in the USA, and comes equipped with a battery and a black neoprene case.

As far as the price goes, the MQ-500 represents a significant financial investment, but it is a mid-range selection for a PAR light meter.

Features

• Dimensions: 9.69” x 6.38” x 2.32”
• Weight: 6.4 ounces
• Units: PPFD
• Range: 0-4000 µmol/(m^2/s)

Pros

• Lightweight
• Separate sensor
• Straight sensor cord, optional telescoping wand
• Sensor cover
• Accurately measures luminosity from all sources
• Enables data logging on PCs and Macs
• Calculates DLI
• Made in the USA
• Comes with a 4-year warranty

Cons

• Battery cover requires screwdriver
• Fairly expensive
• Need one of these to improve your indoor gardening game?

Purchase the MQ-500 PAR meter – with or without the telescopic sensor wand – from the Apogee Instruments Store via Amazon.

3. Dr. Meter LX1330B

An affordable and dependable option for measuring foot candles and lux, Dr. Meter’s LX1330B, available via Amazon, is perhaps one of the most widely used light meters among houseplant parents.

The dark gray plastic housing has orange accents and a removable orange silicone grip case.

It weighs 10.5 ounces and measures ‎5.86 inches long, 2.79 inches wide, and 1.61 inches thick.

Featuring a digital display, the Dr. Meter LX1330B has a range of 0 to 20,000 foot candles or 0 to 200,000 lux.

Dr. Meter LX1330B

The LX1330B is powered by a nine-volt battery, with a battery cover that screws on and off.

It has a detached sensor on a coiled cord that can be stretched up to 69 inches, and comes with a protective sensor cap.

This device measures luminosity from the sun and many types of electric bulbs, but is not recommended for measuring the output of LEDs.

In addition to the power button, four other buttons allow the user to choose the measurement range, toggle between foot candles and lux, hold a current reading, or capture a peak reading.

The margin of error is approximately 3% for readings below 2000 foot candles, and approximately 5% for readings above 2000 foot candles.

This model also has a plastic fold-out stand, an additional feature that allows for extra ease of use.

This budget option comes with the battery needed to get it started as well as a screwdriver for removing the battery cover.

Features

• Dimensions: 5.86” x 2.79” x 1.61”
• Weight: 10.5 ounces
• Units: Foot candles, lux
• Range: 0-20,000 foot candles

Pros

• Separate sensor
• Sensor cover
• Folding stand
• Budget-friendly
• Comes with a 1-year warranty

Cons

• Battery cover requires screwdriver
• Coiled sensor cord
• Not designed for measuring luminosity from LEDs accurately
• Does not calculate DLI
• No data logging

Ready to add this tool to your houseplant care kit?

Get the Dr. Meter LX1330B light meter from the Dr. Meter Store via Amazon.

4. Dr. Meter LX1332B

Another tool from Dr. Meter, available via Amazon, to help with houseplants and indoor gardening, the LX1332B has similar attributes to the previous selection with a few differences.

Unlike the previous selection, this one is mountable on a tripod, has a built-in sensor, and features a more subdued color than the LX1330B’s bright orange – this one is dark blue.

Made with a plastic housing, the Dr. Meter LX1332B weighs 9.1 ounces and measures 7.3 inches long, 2.7 inches wide, and 1.5 inches thick.

This option has a range of 0 to 200,000 lux or 0 to 20,000 foot candles, and features a backlit digital LCD display.

Dr. Meter LX 1332B

A screwdriver is required to remove or replace the nine-volt battery. The built-in sensor on this model can be rotated, and it comes with a protective sensor cap.

This device accurately measures luminosity from sunlight, fluorescent, metal halide, incandescent, and high-pressure sodium lamps but not LEDs.

In addition to the power button, this model features a range button and a button that allows the user to display readings in lux or foot candles, as well as a hold button to pause the display on a given reading.

With a margin of error of approximately 4% for readings under 2000 foot candles, this increases to 5% for readings above 2000 foot candles.

Mountable on a tripod, this budget-friendly option comes with a soft pouch, and one nine-volt battery.

Features

• Dimensions: 7.3” x 2.7” x 1.5”
• Weight: 9.1 ounces
• Units: Foot candles, lux
• Range: 0-20,000 foot candles

Pros

• Mountable on tripod (not included)
• Rotating sensor
• Sensor cap
• Budget-friendly
• Comes with a 1-year warranty

Cons

• Battery cover requires screwdriver
• Sensor attached
• Not designed for measuring luminosity from LEDs accurately
• Does not calculate DLI
• No data logging

Feeling fond of this simple and subdued option for indoor gardening and houseplant care?

You’ll find the Dr. Meter LX 1332B light meter available for purchase from the Dr. Meter Store via Amazon.

5. Extech LT45 LED

If you use LED grow lamps with your houseplants or indoor crops and are interested in saving the data from your readings, consider this next selection a worthy candidate.

Extech’s LT45, available via Amazon, is a light meter whose specialty lies in measuring output from different colored LED bulbs.

The device is housed in dark green plastic, weighs 14.11 ounces, and measures 5.1 inches long, 2.2 inches wide, and 1.5 inches deep.

It displays a wide measuring range of 0 to 40,000 foot candles or 0 to 400,000 lux, and has a digital display.

Extech LT45

Powered by a nine-volt battery, this model has a battery cover that easily slides on and off.

The detached sensor is held on a coiled cable that expands to 59 inches long, and includes a protective sensor cap.

The LT45 has six buttons in addition to its power button, more operating buttons than most of the other models on our list.

These buttons provide the user with many different functions, including toggling between measurement units; zeroing out the calibration; recording minimum, average, or maximum readings; storing readings; holding readings; or selecting for different sources of luminosity.

This last feature makes this device different from the other selections in this roundup – in order to accurately measure the output of different types of LED bulbs, the user must select the LED color being measured – white daylight, amber, green, red, or blue.

That means you can’t get an accurate measurement of the combined luminosity of different colored LEDs all at once with this model – if that’s the feature you need, you should turn to a PAR device.

On the other hand, if you are working with one color of grow lights and plan to use this device to check their output, this may be the perfect light meter for that task.

Keep in mind that this device has a calibration uncertainty of roughly 3% for LEDs and 6% for other sources.

This model can store up to 99 readings in its memory, but with no computer interface, they will need to be noted down manually.

The Extech LT45 is a mid-range option that comes with a hard case and the battery needed to get the show on the road.

Features

• Dimensions: 5.1” x 2.2” x 1.5”
• Weight: 14.11 ounces
• Units: Foot candles, lux
• Range: 0-40,000 foot candles

Pros

• Very wide measuring range
• Battery cover slides on and off
• Separate sensor
• Sensor cap
• Accurately measures luminosity from separate LED lamp colors
• Enables data logging
• Includes a 2-year warranty

Cons

• Heavy
• Light source has to be selected
• Sensor cord coiled
• Logged data is not transferable to computer
• Does not calculate DLI
• Less accurate for non-LED sources
• Less accurate when measuring a combination of LED colors

Does this seem like it would be an excellent addition to your indoor gardening equipment kit?

Head to Amazon to purchase the LT45 light meter from Extech.

6. Hopoocolor OHSP350P

An exciting selection for the indoor gardener or houseplant parent with advanced lighting requirements, Hopoocolor’s OHSP350P, available via Amazon, serves not just as a PAR light meter but also works as a spectrometer.

Made from aluminum, this silver and black model is 5.45 inches long, 3.1 inches wide, and 0.9 inches thick, and it weighs 15.17 ounces.

The OHSP350P offers the best of both light measuring worlds, with a color touch screen that shows measurements in PPFD, and in foot candles and lux.

It has a measurement range between 5 and 200,000 lux or up to 8000 micromoles per second per meter squared.

Hopoocolor OHSP350P

One of the advantages of this device is that it comes with a power adapter, and the battery is built in and rechargeable.

On the other hand, a potential downside (depending on your preferences) is that the sensor is fixed on the top of the device, limiting flexibility somewhat. Also, there is no protective sensor cap.

This is nonetheless an incredible tool – the Hopoocolor OHSP350P measures photosynthetically active radiation from all sources including sunlight, fluorescents, LEDs, and all other types of electric bulbs.

And unique among the selections in this article, a built-in spectrometer analyzes the different colored wavelengths being emitted, which can be visualized in several different graphic styles on the touch screen.

This spectrometer will be useful for growers who wish to monitor or control the types of light waves in the color spectrum that their plants are being exposed to.

Using the single test function, a reading is captured at a moment in time, and this reading can then be stored if desired, but the device also allows for continuous testing. Timed intervals for continuous tests are adjustable.

The Hopoocolor can be used for data logging on PCs, but not Macs. Readings are stored on a removable eight-gig memory card and can also be transferred to PC via a mini USB cable.

This meter does not calculate DLI, and it has a calibration uncertainty of approximately 4%.

This high-end device comes with an eight-gig memory card and mini USB cable. It also features a slot for a wrist strap (not included) and comes with a carrying case.

While this device has many options for taking measurements, these may be overwhelming for some users.

Also, purchasers should be aware that English language support for the Hopoocolor OHSP350P via customer service seems to be fairly limited at this time.

Features

• Dimensions: 5.45” x 3.1” x 0.9”
• Weight: 15.17 ounces
• Units: PPFD, foot candles, lux
• Range: 5-20,000 foot candles, 0.01-8000 µmol/(m^2/s)

Pros

• Rechargeable battery
• Allows visualization of light spectrum
• Accurately measures luminosity from all sources
• Enables data logging to PCs
• Includes a 2-year warranty

Cons

• Heavy
• Sensor attached
• No sensor cover
• English language customer service may be limited
• Does not calculate DLI
• Data logging not compatible with Mac
• Expensive

Ready to get serious with your indoor growing or houseplant gardening hobby and take advantage of the many features this device offers?

You can purchase the OHSP350P spectrometer from the Hopoocolor Store via Amazon.

7. Hydrofarm Analog Active Eye LG17000

Our next selection is a very lightweight, compact, and affordable option for the houseplant parent or indoor gardener. It also requires no batteries or electricity!

Part of Hydrofarm’s Active Eye line, their LG17000 model, available via GrowersHouse, is housed in black plastic and has a white, analog display. It measures 3.5 inches long, 2 inches wide, and 1.5 inches thick, and it weighs just 2.4 ounces.

Hydrofarm LG17000 Active Eye

When you use the LG17000, no energy source is needed. It works without power, and the device has a measuring range of up to 5,000 foot candles or 50,000 lux.

The sensor on this model is integrated, and it can be used to measure luminosity from sunlight or non-LED lamps.

This device is fairly simple – it has one knob with four settings. The first twist of the knob turns the light meter on and takes readings in the lowest measurement range, between 0 and 250 foot candles, or low light situations.

Turn the knob again, and you are expected to multiply the reading on the display by 10. This range is used to measure moderate light intensity.

Another turn of the knob and you’ll find yourself in the highest measuring range, where readings are multiplied by 100. This range is for intense luminosity such as direct sunlight.

This model has a calibration uncertainty of approximately 2%, and with its straightforward functions, it offers an excellent value at a very low price.

Features

• Dimensions: 3.5” x 2” x 1.5”
• Weight: 2.4 ounces
• Units: Foot candles, lux
• Range: 0-5,000 foot candles, 0-50,000 lux

Pros

• Very lightweight
• Small, compact size
• No power needed
• Very affordable price point
• Includes a 2-year warranty

Cons

• Measuring range is limited to only 5000 foot candles
• Sensor attached
• Not designed for measuring luminosity from LEDs accurately
• Does not calculate DLI
• No data logging

Do you like the affordability and practicality of this device to help ensure adequate luminosity for your houseplants or indoor crops?

Find the Hydrofarm Active Eye LG17000 light meter available for purchase from GrowersHouse.

8. Hydrofarm Digital Active Eye LG17010

If you appreciate the simplicity and affordability of our last option, but prefer a digital display for caring for your houseplants or indoor garden crops, you’ll want to check out this next selection.

Another option from Hydrofarm’s Active Eye line, the LC17010, available via Walmart, is a battery-operated model in a plastic housing that’s black with silver and green accents.

Weighing just 4.8 ounces and measuring 6.0 inches long, 3.3 inches wide, and 2.1 inches deep, this device measures up to 40,000 foot candles or 400,000 lux.

This selection measures luminosity from sunlight and non-LED lamps.

Hydrofarm Active Eye LG17010

The LC17010 is powered with a CR2032 coin cell battery, and the cover easily slides off.

The sensor is detached from the main unit, and held by a coiled cord that stretches to approximately three feet long.

In addition to its power button, this model has four additional buttons – a mode button to switch between lux and foot candles, a hold button to freeze a given reading, and up and down buttons.

These up and down buttons are used to review readings, which are automatically recorded in the device’s memory. If more than 50 readings are taken, the older ones will be replaced by more recent ones.

Stored readings can be erased by removing and re-inserting the battery.

Speaking of batteries, this product does not come with one, so make sure to add a CR2032 to your cart when making your purchase.

This model boasts a high degree of accuracy, with a calibration uncertainty of just 1%.

Expect to find the LC17010 at a price point that’s easy on the wallet.

Features

• Dimensions: 6.0” x 3.3” x 2.1”
• Weight: 4.8 ounces
• Units: Foot candles, lux
• Range: 0-40,000 foot candles

Pros

• Lightweight
• Measuring range up to 40,000 foot candles
• Battery cover slides off
• Separate sensor
• Enables data logging
• Affordable price point

Cons

• Sensor cord coiled
• Not designed for measuring luminosity from LEDs accurately
• Does not calculate DLI
• Logged data is not transferable to computer

Have your eye on this model to assist you in growing stellar houseplants or fabulous indoor garden crops?

Purchase the Hydrofarm Active Eye LG17010 light meter from Hydrofarm via Walmart.

And don’t forget your battery, also available for purchase at Walmart.

9. Photobio LGBQM2

Another selection from Hydrofarm from their Phantom collection, the Photobio LGBQM2 model, available via GrowersHouse, is a low-priced PAR light meter for indoor gardeners and houseplant parents who want an accurate assessment of luminosity from all sources.

With a white plastic housing, this device measures 4.5 inches long, 2.4 inches wide, and 0.94 inches thick. It weighs 3.5 ounces without the batteries or cable.

This model has a digital display and is able to take readings in a range between 0 and 3,999 micromoles per second per meter squared.

Photobio LGBQM2

The Photobio LGBQM2 is powered by two AAA batteries, which are easy to change thanks to a sliding battery cover.

This PAR light meter comes with a detached sensor, and unlike any of the other models in this article, users have a choice of two interchangeable sensor cables – one coiled cable that is 4.9 feet long, as well as a straight, 12-foot-long cable.

Adding an additional element of flexibility to using this device, the sensor can be mounted on a tripod or selfie stick via a screw mount.

As a PAR light meter, this device will measure luminosity from all sources, including sunlight, fluorescents, LEDs, and other types of electric bulbs.

As for operating the Photobio LGBQM2, in addition to the side power button, the device has four buttons on its face: mode, enter, an up arrow button, and a down arrow button.

The enter button serves as a hold button on this model to freeze a given reading. The mode button allows one to calibrate, log, or return the device to factory settings. And the up and down buttons permit the user to cycle through recorded readings.

And users can manually record up to 99 readings – on this device the down button is pressed to record a reading while taking samples.

The Photobio LGBQM2 comes with a padded soft case, and the two AAA batteries needed to get it into action.

This device has an error margin of approximately 5%, and is an affordable option for a PAR light meter.

Features

• Dimensions: 4.5″ x 2.4″ x 0.94″
• Weight: 3.5 ounces
• Units: PPFD
• Range: 0-3,999 µmol/m^2/s

Pros

• Lightweight
• Accurately measures luminosity from all sources
• Battery cover slides off
• Separate sensor
• Two interchangeable sensor cables included
• Manually log up to 99 readings
• Sensor is mountable on a tripod or selfie stick
• Affordable for a PAR meter
• Includes a 1-year warranty

Cons

• No sensor cover
• Does not calculate DLI
• Logged data is not transferable to computer

Can’t wait to try this light meter out with your indoor grow setup or houseplants?

Get the Photobio LGBQM2 PAR meter from GrowersHouse.

10. Spot On

The Spot On from Innoquest is a petite PAR meter that offers simple, straightforward operation with an innovative design, making it an excellent choice for the discerning houseplant gardener or indoor grower.

This tiny PAR light meter, available via Amazon, is black with red and white accents, and measures 5.75 inches long, 1.75 inches wide, and 0.85 inches thick. It weighs in at just 2.71 ounces and is the perfect size to slip into a pocket.

The Spot On has a digital display and a measuring range of 0 to 6,500 micromoles per square meter per second.

Spot On Quantum Par Meter

This model is powered by a CR2032 coin cell lithium battery which the manufacturers say has a two year life in this unit, even with heavy use.

Interestingly, the battery cover is not hidden on the back of the device as with most tools of this sort. Instead it is smack dab on the front, and even has the battery type clearly printed right under the cover so you won’t be left wondering which type to buy.

The battery cover can be removed by placing the edge of a coin into the slot and twisting it off.

This model has an integrated sensor, but to make its use more flexible, the light meter can be attached to an extension wand (not included) for taking readings beyond arm’s reach. The sensor comes equipped with a cover.

As a PAR meter, this device will accurately measure light from all sources, including sunlight, fluorescents, LEDs, and other lamps as well.

This model doesn’t have any way of freezing or holding a reading, so readings will need to be noted down by hand.

The Spot On has three modes of operation – instant spot measurement for taking a sample, scan mode for averaging luminosity in a given area, and DLI mode. This latter is the default mode for the device, and is calculated over a 24 hour period.

One of the innovative features of this model is its mounting bracket, which can be used in three different ways – as a stake, a stand, or a hanging bracket.

In addition to those options, the screw that holds the bracket on the back of the device is magnetic, offering yet another means of hanging it, such as on a metal post.

The Spot On is water resistant, and comes with a soft carrying case as well as the required coin cell battery. The error margin for this model is approximately 5%.

This device is made in the USA and the manufacturer offers US-based customer service from their headquarters in Woodstock, Illinois. It is available at a moderately low price point for a PAR meter.

Features

• Dimensions: 5.75″ x 1.75″ x 0.85″
• Weight: 2.71 ounces
• Units: PPFD
• Range: 0-3,999 µmol/m^2/s

Pros

• Extremely lightweight
• Can easily be carried in a pocket
• Simple and intuitive to use
• Accurately measures luminosity from all sources
• Includes a sensor cover
• Water resistant
• Calculates DLI
• Made in the USA
• Fairly affordable
• Includes a 1-year warranty

Cons

• Sensor attached
• No data logging

Would this tool that’s both simple and innovative assist you in cultivating your passion for houseplants or indoor gardening?

If so, you can purchase the Spot On Quantum Par Meter from the FGI Store via Amazon.

Spot On Quantum Par Meter Extension Wand

And if you want that handy extension wand for taking measurements in harder to reach spots, you’ll find one of these available from the FGI Store too, via Amazon.

11. Uni-T UT383

All those state of the art PAR light meters are impressive, but some of us houseplant parents and indoor gardeners don’t need such sophisticated tools, or may not be feeling as carefree with our hard earned cash.

So if you’d like a small, inexpensive device to measure foot candles or lux that is powered by AAA batteries instead of nine-volts, you’ll want to have a look at this last selection.

The UT383 from Uni-T, available via Amazon, has a plastic housing that is red and black, weighs just 4.2 ounces, and measures 6.2 inches long, 1.9 inches wide, and 1.1 inches thick.

This device has a range of up to 18,500 foot candles and a backlit digital display.

Uni-T UT383

This model is powered by three AAA batteries, which are easy to replace since the battery cover slides on and off.

The sensor is attached, and this device measures natural sunlight and luminosity from non-LED lamps.

The UT383 has a unit button to toggle between foot candles and lux, as well as a hold button to allow the user to freeze any reading.

It also has a min/max button which allows indoor gardeners to freeze the reading on the lowest detected reading, or the highest one during a sampling session.

The margin of error for this model is roughly 4% for readings under 999 foot candles, and approximately 5% for those above 999 foot candles.

This budget model comes with the batteries you’ll need to start taking your first readings.

Features

• Dimensions: 6.2″ x 1.9″ x 1.1″
• Weight: 4.2 ounces
• Units: Foot candles, lux
• Range: 0-18,500 foot candles

Pros

• Lightweight
• Powered with AAA batteries
• Battery cover slides off
• Affordable price point

Cons

• Sensor attached
• Not designed for measuring luminosity from LEDs accurately
• Does not calculate DLI
• No data logging

Does this lightweight and affordable option seem like just the tool for your houseplant care or indoor gardening routines?

Buy the UT383 light meter from the Uni-T Store via Amazon.

Which Is the Magic Wand for You?

We’ve gotten up close and personal with 11 different light meters.

After considering these different options, as a houseplant gardener or indoor grower, does one of these “magic wands” seem to be beckoning to you?

As a reminder, if you are interested in measuring luminosity from LED grow lamps as accurately as possible, make sure to choose a PAR meter, or a device that reads foot candles and lux but is specified for LEDs.

On the other hand, if you’re only measuring natural sunlight and budget is your primary concern, you have plenty of options here!

Did this article help you zero in on the device of your houseplant care dreams? Have you had any experience using any of these models for indoor gardening that you’d like to share with our readers? Let us know in the comments section below.

Now that you’ve chosen your trusty luminosity-detecting tool, can I interest you in more houseplant and indoor gardening gear? You may be interested in reading these guides next:

Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from a seed – they are grown from slips. A slip is a rooted sprout from a mature sweet potato. You can order sweet potato slips online or you can grow your own. If you’re wondering how to grow sweet potato slips, you’ve come to the right place.

Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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How to grow sweet potato slips

There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing two successful methods I’ve used.

1. The traditional method of suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips.

2. The soil method of making sweet potato slips. In my experience, this method is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks. 

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The first step for both methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor. 

Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.

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Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips

Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.

Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:

• Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
• One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
• The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.

You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato. 

Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably. 

Keep the water level up in the jar and keep water fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato. 

Once several 5-6 inch sprouts have formed, see the rest of the directions below.

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Faster “soil method” of making sweet potato slips

• Poke holes in the bottom of a foil pan. 
• Fill foil pan with potting soil or seed starting mix.
• Moisten soil. 
• Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
• Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
• Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.

Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably. 

In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, you are ready for the next step.

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Whichever method you choose for making sweet potato slips (the water method or the soil method), the next steps are the same:

• When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
• Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days. 
• Placing jar on a seed germination mat for warmth and under a grow light will speed up the process of developing roots. 
• Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips. 
• Once roots are fully formed, and several inches long, it’s time to plant. 
• Plant rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep. 
• Water newly-planted slips well and feed with a starter solution high in phosphorus to ensure the plants continue rooting.

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One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.

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Don’t forget to Pin it!

 

Freezing kohlrabi is easy to do, and a great way to keep it on hand whenever you need it.

You can use it in your cooking or any recipes, or heat it up for a quick side dish to any meal.

In this post, I’ll show you step by step how to freeze kohlrabi fresh from your garden, the farmer’s market, or the grocery store.

I’ll cover everything from whether you need to blanch it or not and the different methods you can use, to properly preparing it so it will last as long as possible in the freezer.

Can You Freeze Kohlrabi?

The short answer is yes, you can freeze kohlrabi fresh from the garden, grocery store, or farmer’s market.

It freezes very well, and you can use it in any of your favorite recipes. Simply add the frozen pieces to your cooking, or thaw it first.

Related Post: How To Grow Kohlrabi At Home

Preparing Kohlrabi For Freezing

Before you freeze your kohlrabi, there are a few steps you need to follow to make sure it retains the best flavor and texture.

First wash them to remove any dirt or debris, gently rubbing them with a produce brush if necessary. Next, cut the leaves and the stem off each end of the bulb.

Use a vegetable peeler or sharp knife to remove the tough outer skin. Then you can choose to cut it into slices or cubes.

Do You Have To Blanch Kohlrabi Before Freezing?

You don’t have to blanch kohlrabi before freezing. But I recommend doing it because it helps it maintain the crisp texture, and also locks in the fresh flavor.

How To Blanch Kohlrabi To Freeze

To blanch your kohlrabi before freezing, all you need to do is flash-cook it in boiling water for a few minutes.

Fill a cooking pot with water and bring it to a boil on the stove. While you wait, fill a large bowl with ice water.

Once the water comes to a rolling boil, carefully drop in the pieces and let them cook for 2-3 minutes. Do not overcook them.

Remove the pieces quickly using a slotted spoon, place them into an ice bath right away, and let them cool for 1-2 minutes to stop the cooking process.

Methods For Freezing Kohlrabi

Freezing kohlrabi is simple and quick, and there are a few different steps you can follow. The technique you choose depends on the amount of time you have and your personal preference.

Freezing Kohlrabi In Pieces

It’s best to cut your kohlrabi into pieces before freezing it, rather than leaving it whole. This will take up less space, and also results in a better end product.

You can cut the bulbs into either cubes or slices, depending on how you plan to use them later.

Flash Freezing Kohlrabi

Flash freezing is an optional extra step, but it will prevent the pieces from sticking together in one large clump.

Simply spread your cut kohlrabi out on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and place it in the freezer for 30-60 minutes until the pieces are semi-frozen.

Can I Freeze Kohlrabi Leaves & Stems As Well?

Yes you can freeze kohlrabi leaves and stems as well as the bulb. Use small, tender leaves for the best texture and flavor, as the larger ones tend to become tough and woody as they age.

First wash them and pat them dry, or use a salad spinner to remove the excess water.

Then you can simply pack them into freezer bags. Or you could blanch them then freeze them in an ice cube tray to portion them out for your recipes. 

Related Post: How & When To Harvest Kohlrabi

Below is a list of the tools and equipment you will need. But, depending on the process you choose to use, you might not need everything.

How To Store Kohlrabi In The Freezer

The best way to store frozen kohlrabi is to put it into freezer-safe baggies. Make sure to squeeze out all of the extra air before zipping them so the bags take up less space.

Instead of plastic bags you could use any type of container you have, as long as it’s airtight to prevent freezer burn.

How Long Does Frozen Kohlrabi Last?

Frozen kohlrabi lasts for about 8 months or longer when properly prepared and stored. To extend the life, try using a food vacuum sealer.

FAQs

Here are answers for some of the most common questions I get asked about freezing kohlrabi.

Can you freeze kohlrabi without blanching it?

Yes, you can freeze kohlrabi without balancing it. However, skipping this step may degrade the flavor and texture, and it might not last as long in the freezer.

How do I thaw frozen kohlrabi?

The best way to thaw frozen kohlrabi is to rinse it under cool water briefly, or add it directly to your dish while cooking.

Can I freeze kohlrabi raw?

You can freeze kohlrabi raw, but taking a few minutes to blanch it first will preserve the flavor and texture better.

Can you freeze mashed kohlrabi?

I don’t recommend freezing mashed kohlrabi. Mashing it first breaks down the structure of the vegetable, which will most likely cause it to become mushy. It’s better to mash it after you thaw it.

How do you cook frozen kohlrabi?

You can cook frozen kohlrabi the same way you do when it’s raw. Simply place the frozen pieces into a frying pan, or thaw them first. You can add them to any of your favorite recipes, like soups, stir fry, and other dishes.

Does kohlrabi freeze well?

Yes, kohlrabi freezes quite well due to its naturally crisp and hard texture. Blanching it first will help it last longer and preserve the flavor.

Can you freeze kohlrabi whole?

You can freeze kohlrabi whole, however I recommend cutting it up first. When you freeze the bulbs whole they tend to crack, which can negatively impact the texture and taste.

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

More About Food Preservation

Share your tips for freezing kohlrabi in the comments section below.

Step By Step Instructions

I don’t know where the rumor started that dahlias don’t do well in containers.

Sure, some of them are big, so you need an equally large container, but they do extremely well in pots. There’s no reason you can’t bring dahlias into your life in a pot.

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You can add a little color to your patio with some low-growing decorative dahlias or make a big, dramatic statement in the garden with a handful of dinnerplate tubers and a bold container.

The cottage garden vibe is right within reach, even if you don’t have a yard (the cottage is also optional).

Growing dahlias in containers differs slightly from growing them in the ground, but it’s no more difficult.

In fact, in some ways, it’s easier to help them thrive in a container because you can adjust the environment more easily.

Are you ready to make it happen? Great, let’s dive in. Here’s what we’re going to discuss:

Before we jump in, let’s talk a little bit about dahlia anatomy. These plants grow from edible tubers that look like tiny, pointy potatoes.

This plant was actually first cultivated for its roots rather than the flowers, but it’s the flowers that made it such a popular garden option.

These tubers grow wide rather than deep, spreading as the plant continues to develop. From the eyes of those tubers emerge leaves and long stalks that will hold the flower heads.

Most dahlia types can support the weight of the flowers, but we humans have bred a few that become so top heavy that they need support.

All that is to say that you need to be choosy about containers and the cultivar that you select. So let’s talk about the first element of that equation to start.

Pick a Container

In order to pick the best container, we need to consider the dahlia’s underground structures. Since the tubers spread outwards rather than growing deeper, you want a pot that is wider than it is deep.

I never suggest that people fill the bottom of their containers with rocks because it doesn’t improve drainage, which is usually the goal.

But in this case, if you decide you like the look of a tall container, feel free to put some rocks in the bottom to add some weight and take up some room. It’s not necessary, but it’s an option that’s available to you.

The thing to keep in mind here is that you need about 18 inches of depth for the tubers to grow in.

So if you choose a big old pot that is 24 inches in diameter and 36 inches deep, you could fill up a foot or so of the base with rocks if you wanted.

The material of the pot doesn’t matter much, so go with what you love. Terra cotta can be a bit delicate, but it’s affordable and drains well.

Plastic is also affordable and it doesn’t heat up like terra cotta and metal can. Glazed ceramic and concrete are always good options if you want something substantial.

Regardless of what you end up with, the pot must have drainage holes. Dahlias are very sensitive to rot, so if the container doesn’t drain well, the tubers will be toast before you can blink.

If you’re reusing a container, wipe it clean with soapy water. You’ll be sorry if you spread some awful disease to your new plants just because you didn’t clean the pot out.

If you want to be able to more easily move your pots, whether to change up the display or follow the sun, you might want to put your containers on casters.

Choosing a Potting Medium

These days, we’re lucky enough to have lots of killer options for potting soil. Look for one that is water retentive and porous, so it drains well.

A good mix for dahlias will typically contain some combination of rice hulls, sphagnum moss, perlite, coconut coir, or composted plant matter.

I personally love FoxFarm’s Ocean Potting Soil.

It contains sphagnum moss, aged forest and ocean plant matter, sandy loam, earthworm castings, bat guano, and fish meal to give plants a loose, rich bed.

Plus, the company that makes it is a small, family-owned business based out of California.

FoxFarm Ocean Potting Soil

I highly recommend it for pretty much all container growing. If you want to give it a try, purchase a 12-quart bag on Amazon.

Best Dahlias for Containers

The one thing that will set you up for success more than anything else, except possibly providing good drainage, is choosing the right cultivar.

If you pick an extremely tall, heavy cultivar, you’re going to have a bigger challenge on your hands.

That’s not to say that there are any dahlias that can’t be grown in containers – they all can. But consider how much work you want to put in to maintain these plants and help them to thrive.

For instance, while it’s possible to grow dinnerplate dahlias in a container, the pot needs to be huge. They grow five feet tall or more and need staking, so you’ll need at least a 10-gallon pot.

Look for smaller types. Trust me, the visual impact won’t be small. The following are just a few of the excellent options out there:

Bishop of Canterbury

‘Bishop of Canterbury’ seems tailor-made for container life. The three-foot-tall plant can be pinched back to keep it shorter and encourage more blossoms.

‘Bishop of Canterbury’

The plum-colored petals surround a center of golden-black disc florets, catching all the attention in the garden. Mix it with a trailing option like yellow petunias for twice the impact.

Get started by picking up two, four, or eight tubers at Eden Brothers.

Deep Impact

‘Deep Impact’ has a sunset ombre of salmon, orange, and yellow petals on a waterlily-type flower.

And the plant itself is extremely vigorous but stays under 30 inches tall, making it perfect for growing in a pot.

‘Deep Impact’

Make a big impact and snag two, four, or eight tubers from Dutch Grown.

Small World

As the name implies, ‘Small World’ brings a world of dahlia delight in a petite footprint. The plant reaches about a foot tall and is covered in round pompoms of pure white blossoms.

‘Small World’

Eden Brothers carries packs of two, four, or eight tubers.

Stolz Von Berlin

With symmetrical pom poms in lilac hues, ‘Stolz Von Berlin’ is a sweet addition to a container garden.

The plant can reach up to three and a half feet tall, which means it’s on the tall end for a recommended container plant.

But it does extremely well if you pinch it back frequently to keep it shorter.

‘Stolz Von Berlin’

Bring home two, four, or eight tubers from Dutch Grown.

Totally Tangerine

Honestly, every time my ‘Totally Tangerine’ plants start to bloom, I have to do a double-take.

I’ve seen them a million times, but the vibrant anemone flowers made up of pink, tangerine, purple, and fuchsia hues are just so unique.

While there are lots of flowers and the plant grows up to three feet tall, the blossoms aren’t heavy, so ‘Totally Tangerine’ works well in a pot.

‘Totally Tangerine’

Witness the beauty for yourself by picking up two, four, or eight tubers at Eden Brothers.

Sowing Seeds

You can absolutely start dahlias from seed in containers.

In fact, it can be a nice way to extend the growing season because you can start the seeds indoors and bring the seedlings outside when the time is right.

Seeds can be sown indoors about 12 weeks before the last predicted frost date in your region, or after the last frost for starting outdoors. Sow the seeds about a quarter-inch deep in the soil.

One trick I learned from a friend who breeds dahlias is to plant the seeds closer to the edge of the container than the center.

Once the growing roots hit the side of the container, they start to rapidly swell and develop into tubers.

This will happen eventually regardless of whether the roots come up against something solid, but it will happen faster if they do.

Use a spray bottle to mist the soil. You want to moisten the soil without moving the seeds around.

If the plants are growing indoors, put them under grow lights for about eight hours a day. Outdoors, keep the containers in a spot that receives eight hours of direct sunlight.

Planting Tubers

In your filled container, plant the tuber about four inches deep in the soil.

Ideally, you should center the eye of the tuber in the pot, but it doesn’t really matter. The tuber will eventually fill out the pot anyway.

If you want to be extra careful to avoid rot, fill the container up to about six inches below the rim and place the tubers inside.

Barely cover them with soil. Let the soil dry out to the bottom of the tuber between watering.

Once the tuber sends up a stem, add a few more inches of soil. When the stem reaches above the rim of the pot, fill the pot the rest of the way.

This process takes more time, but it allows the tuber to dry out more readily.

Maintenance

When you plant your seeds or tubers, add any sort of support that you plan to use at that time to lessen the chance of disturbing the roots.

Remember, shorter types don’t need support, but taller types might. This could be as simple as a stake, or you could use tomato cages or special flower supports.

I think flower support rings look better in containers, personally. These four-millimeter wire cages from HiGift can be purchased in 15.8- or 24-inch heights on Amazon.

HiGift Wire Cage

You might need to drill holes in the side of the container and affix the support to the side of the pot using wire.

Once the plants are between six inches and a foot tall, pinch them back to a flower bud to encourage bushier growth.

As the tubers are developing, you need to be extraordinarily careful not to overwater. Remember, dahlia tubers are extremely prone to rotting.

The soil should be allowed to dry out to the middle of the tuber between watering.

If you live in a hot region, when the heat of summer rolls around, you might want to provide your plant some relief if the container is sitting on concrete. That could mean setting the plant somewhere that will be shaded during the hottest part of the day.

Remember that any pest or disease that can attack in-ground dahlias can attack ones that are growing in a pot well.

Our general guide to growing dahlias will walk you through what to watch for. I find that potted flowers seem to have more trouble with aphids and spider mites than in-ground plants.

In the fall, lift the tubers and overwinter them unless you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 or 10. Our guide to lifting dahlia tubers explains the process.

Once you lift the tubers, you probably want to do some dividing before you repot them the following spring. You should also use fresh soil, and remember to clean those pots!

Dahlias are Delightful in Containers

Not everyone with a green thumb or a passion for flowers is lucky enough to live somewhere with a big yard full of lots of unoccupied sunny spots.

In fact, most of us probably have to make do with something less than ideal. That’s why I’m such a fan of growing things in containers.

It doesn’t matter what your garden situation looks like. So long as you have a few square feet of sunny space and a sturdy container, you can enjoy everything that dahlias have to offer.

Last but not least, let’s get down to the important stuff. What cultivar are you growing? Where are you keeping your potted beauty? Did we miss a particular favorite of yours that you’d like to call out? Share the details in the comments.

And don’t go just yet. If you have any interest in learning more about dahlias, you might want to stick around to check these articles out next:

Now an enthusiastic rhubarb convert, the sweet, tart tang of the red-green stalks haunted my winter dreams and made me ache for summer. Even though all of my friends had pie-plant patches in their gardens, I still didn’t.

That’s when I realized that I needed to grow rhubarb in containers at home during the winter.

My state may freeze for over half the year, but that doesn’t mean I can’t get a head start on growing my favorite pie filling in the world.

And so can you! In this article, I’ll show you how.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Why Grow Rhubarb in a Container?

A member of the Polygonaceae family, Rheum rhabarbarum produces red or reddish-green stalks from springtime to early or midsummer, depending on the variety.

While the leaves are inedible, or even toxic if consumed in large amounts, the stalks are deliciously edible.

Cooked down with buckets of sugar, they shine in a pie. That’s reason enough for me to want to grow a whole field of pie plant!

Growing rhubarb in containers is an easy way to have your own fresh harvest of stalks, even if you haven’t got much space in your garden.

Containers also help keep this plant in check. Once it’s established in your yard, rhubarb tends to take over, spreading so tall and wide – up to four feet both ways – that it can overshadow other crops growing in the area.

In southern climes – USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and above – rhubarb plants perish when temperatures rise in the summer, which is why it’s often grown as an annual in those locations.

If it isn’t too hot out – meaning temperatures stay around or below 80°F throughout the hottest parts of the year – rhubarb thrives, and then naturally goes into dormancy during the late fall and into the winter months.

Rhubarb then needs to chill out at a temperature of between 28 to 49°F or below for at least six weeks.

This varies according the the cultivar you are growing, but on average, this plant needs 500 chill hours for best yields.

For those in Zones 7 or 8, the weather doesn’t always comply with this requirement.

Bringing your plant into a cool place like a basement or barn during these months will keep it happy during its winter rest period, allowing it to put all its energy into producing tasty new stalks come spring.

This is easy to do if you grow your plants in a container.

Choosing the Right Container

Are you planning to plant crowns, divisions, or bare roots in pots outdoors? Then you’ll need a container that’s at least 20 inches tall and wide.

It’s up to you whether you want to use a light plastic one, a more robust terra cotta variety, or something pretty and ornamental. Read more about what material is best for containers, pots, and planters here.

For starting seeds that you’ll later transplant to a larger outdoor container, select a pot that’s at least eight inches wide and seven inches deep.

This gives your plant plenty of room to grow and become established before transplanting time – without taking up scads of space in your house.

Alternatively, you can start seeds in trays and transplant the seedlings later.

Make sure you select a pot that has a draining dish, drainage holes that don’t leak onto your selected growing surface, or a self-watering insert.

You can also fill a regular pot with a layer of gravel at the bottom to promote drainage away from the root system.

Preparing Your Container

Fill your 20-by-20-inch container with either:

Use a good quality, organically rich potting soil that drains well. Rhubarb enjoys soil with a pH between 5.0 and 7.0, or lightly acidic to neutral.

If you’re using garden soil, you may need to amend it with compost or well-rotted manure. Conduct a soil test if you are unsure about the composition and pH level of your soil.

How to Grow

You can propagate rhubarb in four ways: from a crown (a one-year-old plant), a division, a dormant bare root ball, or seed.

We’ll discuss each method as it pertains to container growing so that you can make the best selection for your garden.

Planting a Crown

A rhubarb crown is a good way to start if you want stalks that are ready to harvest in the first season after you’ve planted it.

Make a four-inch-deep, six-inch-wide hole in the soil. Carefully remove your crown from its planter.

You may need to gently untangle the tendrils of the rhizome if the root ball seems very compacted.

Next, set the root ball in the hole, and backfill with soil. Don’t cover any part of the existing stalks or leaves with soil. All you need to do is make sure the root ball is covered.

Give the plant a thorough soaking and set your container in a location that gets at least six hours of sun per day, preferably more. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy.

For crowns planted in the fall, reduce watering over the winter months, and increase again when you see the first signs of life in springtime. Then keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged through the growing season.

If you have planted your crowns in the spring, get ready to watch them grow. As directed above, don’t overwater, but don’t let them dry out, either.

While you may be tempted to start snipping those tasty stalks off immediately, don’t!

Wait until stalks are 10 to 12 inches tall, and harvest lightly in the first season, taking only 1/8 to 1/4 of the plant’s total stalks.

This will allow your plant to establish the strong root system it needs to produce truly delicious stalks starting one year after planting.

Planting a Division

If a friend is kind enough to give you a division from her rhubarb plant, rejoice!

To divide them, you have to dig up the root and cut it in half (or into three pieces, depending on how large it is).

It is best to divide in spring, when the plant is first starting to wake up from its winter dormancy, or in the fall, just before it goes dormant.

See our full guide to dividing perennials for detailed instructions on how to do this.

Depending on the division time that you choose, the root balls (rhizomes) will be yellowish, chunky, tuberous things that may or may not have stalks and leaves attached.

Plant each division in a hole about eight to 10 inches deep, leaf side up. Cover all but the top inch of the root ball with soil, and leave any remaining stalks and leaves uncovered.

Water the division thoroughly, and find the container a sunny spot on your porch or deck.

If you’ve planted a rhizome that was divided in the fall, keep the soil moist until the plant goes fully dormant – in other words, until it dies all the way back.

For spring-planted divisions, keep them moist throughout the rest of the spring and summer, and watch those mature stalks pop up. (Yes, you can harvest them!) Spring-planted divisions will grow quickly and will be ready for harvest as soon as the stalks are 12 to 18 inches long.

For fall-planted divisions, you’ll be able to harvest stalks the following spring.

Planting a Dormant Bare Root Ball

A dormant bare root ball is essentially the same thing as a division. This is what the plant is called when you purchase it from a nursery, and it will generally include just one pale, dormant bud.

Dig a hole eight to ten inches deep, depending on the size of your bare root.

Set the bare root inside, leaving the bud, exposed. Whatever you do, make sure to find the bud. It’s usually a very pale, one-inch-long bud near the top of the bare root.

The surest way to kill a bare root is to plant it root-side-up, bud-side-down.

If you don’t see a bud anywhere, contact the seller and explain the situation. They may be able to help you find the bud, or send a replacement.

Water your newly planted root ball thoroughly, find it a sunny, warm location, and keep the soil moist. If you plant in the fall, there’s no need to water the bare root once temperatures drops consistently to 60°F or below.

The plant will stay comfortably dormant until springtime.

With springtime planting, leaves should emerge within two or three weeks. Don’t harvest during the first season.

Rhubarb planted from small bare roots needs time to establish a strong and healthy root system, giving you a better second-season yield and a hearty third-season yield, as well as high yields in the years to follow.

Since these plants are very long-lived, they can keep producing for decades.

Germination can take anywhere from seven days to two weeks.

After three weeks, I transplanted my baby seedlings into my eight-inch-wide, seven-inch-deep pots, prepared as described above with potting soil and a little granular fertilizer.

Place them in an area that receives at least six hours of sunlight per day (or use a grow light), and maintain even moisture, but don’t let them become waterlogged.

As the rhubarb grows, you’ll notice more leaves developing on the stems.

In spring, when all risk of frost has passed and the seedlings are four to six inches tall, your plants will be ready for hardening off and moving outdoors in a larger container.

To harden them off, place the pots in a partly sunny area protected from wind, rain, and excessive sunshine, starting with two hours of outdoor exposure a day.

Over the space of a week, gradually increase their outdoor playtime to eight hours, and then they will be ready to grow outdoors full-time.

And voila! Your pie plant is on its way to becoming a one-year-old crown. Next summer, you’ll get to enjoy stalks from your very own seed-grown rhubarb.

Container Care

Once established, rhubarb is easy to care for. Always keep in mind that it grows best in a sunny spot with evenly moist soil.

When growing it in containers, remember that the soil can dry out more quickly than it would in the garden. Keep an eye out for dehydration, especially during periods of hot weather.

If you haven’t had sufficient rain, you may need to provide extra irrigation.

Mulching with shredded bark, wood chips, or compost can help the soil to retain moisture, just be sure not to let the mulch touch the crowns – keep it about an inch away from the stems of your plants.

In the late fall, after harvest, the plant will die back and go dormant for the winter. As mentioned above, it needs a winter chilling period of about six weeks with temperatures between 28 and 49°F.

Come spring, when you see the first signs of new growth, fertilize with a balanced 10-10-10 (NPK) granular fertilizer. Note that this may not be necessary if you are mulching with compost, as it will gradually break down and provide extra nutrients to the soil.

Dividing Larger Plants

You won’t need to worry about this for about three or four years, but once your plants start to look too big for their containers, it’s time for some division.

Wait until late fall or early spring to do this – when the plant is either about to go dormant for the winter, or when it’s just waking up in springtime.

With a trowel or hand rake, scrape at the outside of the root until you can reach down and pull it out with two hands. Take a flat spade in two hands and hit the root with it, slicing the tuberous yellow chunk straight down the middle, or use a garden knife.

Depending on how large the root is, and how many buds it has, you may want to slice it again crosswise so that you have four chunks instead of two. Each division should have 1-3 buds.

(Yes, your plant will survive this. It’s very hardy!)

Replant the chunks with the stalk (bud) sides up, douse them with water, and watch them pop up and sprout new stalks in the spring.

But keep an eye out for fungal leaf rot, which can happen if the leaves stay damp or damply hug other surrounding leaves for too long. An easy way to avoid this is to water at the base of the plant, avoiding the leaves entirely. Remove any dead or dying leafy growth throughout the season, to promote good airflow.

If you do find fungus, remove the infected leaf and stalk. You can still use the stalk in your cooking if you cut the affected parts away, and removing the leaf will help to keep the infection from spreading to the rest of the plant.

So, what’s the number one pest to watch out for?

The rhubarb weevil, a yellowish, long-snouted, half-inch-long beetle that carves notches out of your beautiful stems and leaves.

Scrape the weevils off the plant if you spot them, and kill them so that they don’t come back.

It’s important to catch them early, before they start laying eggs and multiplying at rates that are hard to keep up with.

Harvesting

To harvest your stalks, wait until the second season of growth. This is going to be the hardest part of growing your own, especially when your taste buds crave pie!

Most varieties will be ready for harvest from late April through June.

When the stalks are 12 to 18 inches in length, harvest the outer stalks by finding the base with your fingers and pulling firmly to break them off one at a time. Each stalk should detach pretty easily from the base, with a tapered end.

Cut the leaves off and whisk them off to your compost container.

Remember, they’re inedible and even potentially harmful due to the high levels of oxalic acid they contain, so you don’t want children or pets munching on them.

During your plant’s first harvest, take only about a quarter of the total stalks. The following year, you can take all but one-third.

By leaving a few stalks behind, you allow the plant to store energy for the winter dormancy period, and the reawakening to follow in the springtime.

If you live in Zones 7 or above, move your container to a cool, sheltered space – a basement, garage, or even an outdoor freezer – once it gets too hot, with temperatures consistently above 80°F.

It’s ideal if this space gets down to 40°F during the winter so your plant could also stay there through the necessary chilling period. Alternatively, you can move it back outside after the heat of summer has passed.

If you are growing your plant as an annual, harvest every single stalk off your pie plant when they’re ready, watch the remaining above ground portions of the plant shrivel in the heat – or simply dig it up and dispose of it – and replant a new division or crown in fall or the following spring.

Those in Zones 3 to 6 can leave the containers outside to happily overwinter in the cold.

Need more harvesting tips and tricks? We have a guide for that!

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

For use throughout the winter, cut clean stalks into one-inch pieces, lay them on parchment paper, and freeze until they are firm. Then transfer them to gallon-size freezer bags, making sure to mark them with the date you put them in the freezer. They’ll keep for up to a year.

Crossvine is native to forested areas of east Texas, as well as parts of the southeastern, eastern, and midwestern United States.

But back to my neighbor. I never did get a good answer out of him. I think he was just tired of it.

Tired of the low-maintenance, evergreen perennial that was a neighborhood conversation piece? Okay, Lieutenant Dan.

I think fighting so many fires throughout his career with the Austin Fire Department must have fried his brain… (Just kidding, Dan!)

Don’t be like Daniel. Plant a crossvine, watch it grow, and then let it be. This article will teach you how to do that. Here’s what’s ahead:

What Is Crossvine?

Bignonia capreolata is sometimes called trumpet vine or quarter vine.

Botanically, you may hear it referred to as Anisostichus capreolata, Doxantha capreolata, or Anisostichus crucigera, though these names are now considered taxonomically incorrect.

The common name “crossvine” is thought to have come from the appearance of a cross-cut section of the plant’s stem. The genus name “Bignonia” honors the librarian of French King Louis XV.

The Creek, Koasati, and Seminole indigenous peoples of what is now Florida, as well as the Houma of Louisiana, used crossvine roots and bark as a remedy for numerous medical conditions, including headaches, edema, rheumatism, and diphtheria.

Crossvine seeds don’t need any special preparation, and you can expect a 90 percent germination rate, more or less.

Plant seeds in a well-draining planter containing a mixture of peat, coarse sand, and perlite. Bury each seed one to two inches deep and water well.

Keep the soil moist but don’t overwater. Expect germination within three weeks.

Transplant seedlings into the garden when they are two to three inches tall and all risk of frost has passed.

You can direct sow outdoors in fall, or in spring after the last frost.

How to Grow

Though this plant is generally considered appropriate for USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9b, it may survive in Zone 5, albeit with possible leaf loss.

Crossvine grows best in full sun but will tolerate some shade, although there will be fewer flowers. It prefers soil with a pH of 6.8 to 7.2.

B. capreolata likes consistently moist but well-drained, organically rich soil, but it will tolerate standing water for short periods. It is also drought-tolerant once established.

Deer will snack on this one, so keep that in mind when it comes to site selection.

This plant can spread somewhat aggressively via suckers, so you might want to keep an eye out for those.

Fertilize crossvine with organic NPK 8-5-5 fertilizer early in spring before it flowers and then again after the blooms fade.

Managing Pests and Disease

Crossvine has no serious insect or disease problems. Rarely, it might be pestered by any of a few types of fungi.

You may see leaf spot – small speckles of brown, tan, or black – which are often caused by the fungus Cercospora capreolata.

You might also see blight caused by the fungus Botrytis. Blight presents on leaves or stems as dark areas with concentric rings.

Black mildew caused by the fungi Dimerosoporium tropicale or Meliola bidentata may also develop. Treat any of these fungal diseases with a fungicide.

As mentioned above, deer also enjoy browsing this vine in wintertime. Find tips for dealing with deer here.

Don’t Be Like Daniel: Embrace This Low-Maintenance Flowering Vine

If you’re looking for a quick-growing, low-maintenance, evergreen vine that will withstand heat and drought, consider crossvine.

And once it becomes established, don’t be like my neighbor Dan and tear it all down for no discernable reason.

Let it grow and flourish. Trim it up a bit if it’s encroaching on the neighbors’ but otherwise just leave it be!

Steve in the UK is sharing a very cool, very small garden space with us today.

My wife, Emily, and I followed our dream of moving to the seaside from Surrey nine years ago. We were looking for a period house, and much as we didn’t want to take a project on, we fell in love with a 1800’s Victorian house in a quiet crescent, a short walk from the beach. We are keen gardeners, and whilst we were moving to a house with a paved courtyard, rather than the lawn/beds we were used to, we could see great potential in it. When we moved, we potted up plants from our Surrey garden, took cuttings, divided shrubs, etc. The larger pots we moved to the courtyard; others we gave to family and friends to foster until we got settled. We also made use of the front garden as a “nursery” to hold plants temporarily.

For the first couple of years we tackled the chaos in the house: stripped out, repaired, restored, plastered, and painted. In the summers we got on with cleaning the courtyard, a bit of painting, and looking after the pots. Furniture was a couple of deck chairs and a little table.

In the third year, we started work on the courtyard in earnest. The ground was slabbed wall to wall, and whilst we considered that raised beds and pots were our only option, one weekend I decided to lift some slabs on one side to see what was below.

We encountered a deep layer of hardcore underneath a concrete skin, and with use of a sledgehammer and brute force we managed to break through, remove shingle, bricks, sand, and rubble to about 2 feet. Underneath was the soil we were looking for. It took two very long weekends to break through and dig down to three sides. We pulled out bags and bags of rubble, and once clear, we backfilled with a mix of soil and compost.

We had always had a love of exotic plants and Mediterranean-style gardens. I have grown a variety of bananas and palms over the years. We have been lucky to spend time in Italy and Greece and loved the courtyard-style seen in both countries, particularly Venice. Our time at the house enabled us to know our own courtyard, sun positions, and how we wanted it to be planted. The garden is north-facing, but it gets full east-west sun from May to early October. We were fortunate that the mild coastal climate was perfect for the garden we wanted.

The pictures give you the “before and after” of the garden, yet is very much an ongoing process. Digging down and putting three beds in was the best thing we did, as it has enabled us to plant “vertically” with all manner of climbers and taller shrubs allowed to take root. We have palms, climbing roses, several clematis, rambling fuchsia (amazing), passion flowers, succulents, varieties of lilies, dahlias, trailing plants, and spider plants that survive the winters—geraniums that are very hardy too. The bananas are astonishing, and we have had fruit the past three years. However, we have also retained a number of specimens in planters and large pots.

The key thing has been for us to make the garden as low-maintenance and drought-resistant as possible. It is at its peak from June to early October. In July it is at its best: bananas are full height, the flowers and roses smell amazing, and the courtyard is full of bees and butterflies.

We have added a living wall for succulents and put in an old butler sink and other large zinc troughs for herbs and salads. In the last two years we have added a grapevine, with us running overhead wires last year to create the canopy we want over the space. This will also allow the passion flowers to grow up and over, and a newly planted jasmine too.

Last year we installed two sets of lighting—uplighters and overhead festoons. The uplighters make the garden look magical at night. The walls are adorned with mirrors to open up the space and other items we have collected from flea markets. We particularly love the martini sign we found. (Friends call the garden the “Martini Bar.”)

The garden is always evolving with new ideas and new plants, and each year it becomes more and more established. We are very pleased with the results. We get lots of compliments from people who come and visit the garden; some passersby have asked to see it as they have noticed the bananas from the road. We plan in another year to open the garden as part of the town “Open Gardens” scheme to raise money for local charities. We are always giving away plants to friends; it would be nice to raise some money from a few for charities.

The garden has become an extension of the house and is the perfect place for us to sit back and relax. Our two boys love sitting out there too. The dogs like to bask in the sun, and we love to barbecue, entertain, eat out there, enjoy a sundowner, play music, and light a fire. With the lighting the garden can be enjoyed ’til the small hours.

The “before” picture—not much more than a place to sit.

And now the place is overflowing with lush plantings!

Steve shows off a banana flower, with developing fruit!

Passionflower (Passiflora sp.) blooms in the garden.

Steve poses with a banana leaf, showing how huge they get.

Garden lighting transforms the space and makes it a great place to relax any time of day or night.

A perfect place to socialize and relax

The huge bananas really transport you away from the UK to a more tropical clime.

Dogs love the space as much as humans.

Lush abundance is the order of the day.

Planters mounted to the wall add more life to every inch.

If you to see more from this beautiful space, check out their Instagram: @our_exotic_garden_by_the_sea

 

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During a cold and extremely wet English spring, we revisited Gravetye Manor. The bucolic Sussex estate—with 36 acres of flower gardens, meadows, mixed borders, lawns, and a vast one and a half acre elliptical walled kitchen garden—surrounds a country house hotel that is set in a wider 1,000-acre estate. All of it was once owned and nurtured by the prolific Victorian writer and garden maker William Robinson, whose books espoused naturalistic planting and gardening in tune with nature.

For the past 13 years, the prodigiously talented Tom Coward has overseen a team of six other gardeners to restore and reimagine this heritage garden. The Great Dixter alumnus has reinvigorated the kitchen garden, which was covered in brambles and weeds by the time he arrived here in 2010, and injected vigor and bravura planting into vibrant borders and electrifying meadows. Even on a damp, cool spring day there were fresh ideas in all directions.

Photography by Clare Coulson.

1. Use bulbs as your paintbox.

2. Create structures with waste materials.

3. Place an eye-catcher to create a vista.

4. Plan for statement-making plantings.

5. Marry plants with objects.

If you aren’t already growing this enticing crop in your garden, you really should be! Bunching onions are a cinch to grow, strong and enduring, and once established, they can supply a sharp and delicious punch of flavor to your cooking, year after year.

Here’s what’s to come in this article:

Similar Species

Distinguishing between bunching onions and other allium varieties can be tricky. After all, pretty much any type of onion will produce edible greens.

Cultivation and History

Though often referred to as Welsh onions, bunching onions did not originate in Wales, nor do they have a particular connection to Welsh culinary tradition. In this case, “Welsh” refers to an Old English form of the word, which was once taken to mean “foreign.”

In fact, this long-cultivated crop is native to China. Its use by humans dates back to at least 200 BC. It likely reached Japan by 500 AD and spread from there across Asia and Europe, eventually landing in North America.

In addition to being a tasty inclusion in all manner of cuisine, it also has many uses in Chinese medicine. It has been used to help improve metabolism, prevent cardiovascular disorders, and fight colds and upper respiratory infections.

A poultice made from scallions is said by herbalists to even be helpful for treating infections or draining sores. A poultice is a moist lump of plant matter that is placed on the skin to treat wounds or skin ailments. It can be wrapped in cloth or applied directly to the skin.

It is also conveniently useful to help protect gardens! The juice can be used as a moth or aphid repellent, and the whole plant is thought to repel certain types of insects including termites, as well as moles. Not a bad deal! (Please let us know if you have any success trying this in your own garden…).

From Seedlings/Transplanting

Start seeds indoors about five to six weeks before the last frost date for your area. Maintain an average temperature of 59 to 68°F, and keep the soil moist until germination, which will take between seven and 10 days on average.

Once plants are three or four inches tall and all risk of frost has passed, transplant to the garden in rows, leaving a few inches of space between each.

Water dry soil gently before planting. You can dip the bottom of roots lightly in water or liquid fertilizer before setting in the soil.

Division

Once established, plants can be divided easily to spread throughout your garden, or to share with friends and neighbors!

Division can be done at any time of year, but spring is best. To divide plants, just dig up a clump, carefully split the root ends into several sections, and replant.

How to Grow

Bunching onions are very resilient. They will grow in almost any soil conditions and can even tolerate drought.

That being said, providing nutrient-rich soil in full sun with plenty of water will certainly help to produce a superior crop.

Plants will benefit from regular watering, as well as the addition of liquid feed such as comfrey tea or fish fertilizer every few weeks.

To make a homemade comfrey tea fertilizer, cut a bunch of comfrey leaves and place them in a five-gallon bucket of water. Wait a couple of days, strain, and this nutrient-rich “tea” is ready to be used on your plants. Be warned, it does have quite a strong smell!

You can find complete brewing instructions here.

It is also important to keep the area around your plants free of weeds. Surrounding them with a thick layer of mulch is an ideal way to both keep weeds down and keep the soil moist.

Managing Pests and Disease

While tasty to you and me, bunching onions are typically not all that tempting to pests, and don’t often experience problems. In fact, planting alliums around the edges of garden beds is often done as a precaution to ward off unwanted insects and herbivores like rabbits.

Nonetheless, there are a few pests and diseases that can occasionally strike.

Pests

We’ll begin with the most common insect pests that may plague your crop, with identification info as well as ways to combat them and avoid infestation.

Allium Leaf Miners

These small flies lay their eggs inside the leaves of allium-family plants, and can eat their way down to the roots, creating little white spots along the tips of the leaves.

The wounds left by the mines can become rotted by fungi or bacteria, which can ultimately destroy the plant. Once the miners have burrowed into the crop, there’s little you can do.

This is a relatively new pest in the US that is still being researched, with the first infestation in the Western Hemisphere being confirmed in 2015 in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

The best method to deal with these insects prevention, by timing crops to avoid infestation as part of an integrated pest management program. You can also use row covers to prevent flies from laying eggs on plants.

Read more about identifying and controlling allium leaf miners here.

Thrips

These tiny insects create blotchy streaks on the tops of plants, causing deformity in the leaves.

Hose off leaves with a strong jet of water in the late morning to remove insects. You can also coat each leaf with a homemade insecticidal soap.

Read more about managing thrip infestations here.

Disease

Several types of disease may affect your crop, particularly if plants are weakened and made more susceptible by insect infestation or changes in the weather.

White Rot

This soil-borne fungus can affect all plants in the allium family. The disease causes white mold to form at the base of the roots, sometimes ruining plants.

Practice crop rotation to reduce disease spread. But keep in mind that preventing recurrence may not always be possible, as white rot can live in soil for anywhere from 8 to 20 years.

Be sure to avoid using starts or seeds that have been infected.

Downy Mildew

Mildew can leave fuzzy growths on leaves, causing them to turn yellow or brown and collapse.

Avoid planting infected sets, rotate crops regularly to areas that have not had other allium species grown in them in the last few years, and plant in well-draining soil.

Botrytis Leaf Blight

This is a foliar disease that causes small white spots on leaves and causes tips to wilt and die back. Eventually, this can cause all of the foliage to die. Wet weather can cause spores to germinate and spread rapidly.

Destroy any infected plants and reduce the risk of spreading by rotating to areas where no other allium species have been grown for the past few years.

Harvesting

Plants can be harvested in two ways: you can pull entire plants and eat them like green onions, or you can snip off leaves as needed throughout the growing season, more like chives. Leaves will grow back quickly and can be cut down several times throughout the season.

I prefer to stick mainly with the snipping method, pulling up only a few plants here and there once a patch is well established. This way, I can ensure that this hardy perennial continues to thrive and produce each year without any extra work for me!

Harvesting can begin any time after plants have reached four to six inches high. The larger they get, the stronger the flavor will be!

If pulling up entire plants, you may want to wait four to five months from seeding to harvest, until they reach full maturity.

In warm climates, this plant can be harvested year-round.

In the first year, do not begin harvesting until midsummer, and be careful not to over harvest, so that young plants will have the opportunity to develop strong roots. You should also remove flower heads when they form, unless you are planning to save seeds or enjoy the flowers in your cooking.

Preserving

Bunching onions can be stored for up to 10 days in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator. They can also be frozen easily, or dried for longer preservation.

Freezing

Wash greens thoroughly and lay them out to dry. Next, chop them up into little rings of whatever thickness you prefer.

That is pretty much it! There’s no need to blanch prior to freezing, simply pack them into freezer containers, bags, or glass jars. Whenever you need a few for cooking, just grab a handful and throw it right into your meal.

Drying

This is perhaps my favorite preservation method for this plant. Since the greens tend to dry fairly quickly, are able to be stored for years, and take up very little shelf space, drying is a prudent way to preserve an abundant crop.

Begin by washing and chopping the greens, and then allow them to air dry. Use a dehydrator or place them in the oven at the lowest heat setting, until no moisture remains.

For more on dehydrating the garden’s bounty, read all about it on our sister site, Foodal.

I like to put them in the oven on the “warm and hold” setting, but if this isn’t a feature that your oven has, just use the lowest temperature available. They dry quickly, so check them often!

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Delicious on their own or as an enhancement to a main course, these sharp green leaves make a perfect addition to any meal.

On a warm day, try dipping crunchy veggies in a cooling scallion dip, or warm up on a chilly evening with a sweet and zesty bowl of green onion soup.

Use them to add a delightful crunchy spice to salads and sandwiches, or to flavor broths, enhance stir fries, and spruce up your dinner with a lively garnish.

Foodal has a useful guide on ways to prepare and use green onions.

Try going fancy with some mouth-watering green onion frittatas. This fun recipe from Foodal combines fresh scallions, peas, and feta to make mini frittatas in muffin tins.

Quick Reference Growing Chart

Plant Type:	Perennial Bulb	Tolerance:	Drought tolerant
Native to:	China but naturalized world-wide	Growth Rate:	Fastest in cool weather
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	5-9	Maintenance:	Low
Season:	Spring through fall	Soil Type:	Nutrient rich, will tolerate poor soils
Exposure:	Full sun to partial shade	Soil pH:	6.0 to 7.0
Time to Maturity:	4-5 months	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	2-3 inches	Companion Planting:	Beets, sweet peppers, spinach, lettuce, turnips, and parsnips
Planting Depth:	1/4-1/2 inches	Avoid Planting With:	Other Alliums to avoid pests and disease spread and cross pollination
Height:	10 to 14 inches depending on cultivar	Family:	Amaryllidaceae
Spread:	Will continue to spread unless contained or pulled	Genus:	Allium
Water Needs:	Regular watering	Species:	fistulosum
Common Pests:	Allium leaf miners, army cutworms, beet armyworms, nematodes, slugs, thrips	Common Disease:	Leaf blight, downy mildew, maggots, neck rot, white rot

Since then, I’ve vowed that if I ever build a house from scratch again, I’ll be there when they clear the lot so that they don’t cut down more than they need to.

I also decided to plant as many trees as I could. To start with, my husband and I bought and planted 11 trees, four of which were fruit trees.

Our wallets were a little shocked, but they were worth the investment. Now I’ve started growing my own pear trees from cuttings.

Usually, they’re propagated by grafting or budding to create clones – and these processes require a special set of skills and equipment.

Trying to grow fruit trees from seeds typically doesn’t work well because they will not produce true to the parent plant.

You may be wondering: can pear trees be grown from stem cuttings?

While it’s not an easy task, the answer is a resounding yes. Plus, by rooting a cutting, you will grow a clone of the parent tree.

So if you want a satisfying and wallet-friendly way to propagate pear trees, this guide will walk you through the process.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Find the Right Type of Cutting

Pears are members of the Pyrus genus and there are typically two species grown in home orchards: P. communis, the European pear, and P. pyrifolia, the Asian variety. Both of these can be propagated via stem cuttings.

You’ll have to take a few steps to ensure that the branches you take will be suitable for rooting. The first step, of course, is to find an existing pear tree to take a cutting from. Maybe your neighbor is growing a few admirable cultivars and would be willing to give you a branch or two from each.

When you’ve found your source, it’s time to figure out which type of cutting you want to take. There are two types that work well for rooting: softwood and semi-hardwood.

A softwood branch section is taken from late spring to early summer when the tree is putting on new growth. As the name suggests, the wood is soft and grows roots more quickly than semi-hardwood.

If you look closely at a branch, you can see where the new growth occurs. The wood is lighter than older growth, and it just looks soft and green and new.

A semi-hardwood branch can be taken from mid- to late summer or early- to mid fall, depending on where you live. At this point, the early summer’s new growth is beginning to turn brownish-gray, woody, and hard.

Softwood branches grow roots more quickly, but they have a tendency to dry out more easily, too, which can slow or stop any chance of root growth. Semi-hardwood grows roots more slowly but dries out less easily.

Once you’ve decided which type of young branch to take and where to get them, you can move on to the step of collecting your supplies.

Prepare Your Cuttings for Rooting Success

Gently scrape off the outer bark along the bottom inch or two of the stem and around the leaf nodes, and then dip the bottom portion into your powdered rooting hormone or cloning gel.

Immediately afterward, make a hole in the potting medium and gently place the cuttings into their clear plastic cups and set them on your seed starting tray.

Place the humidity dome over the top of your seed starting tray and set it on your heat mat, if using. Make sure the location you select receives at least six to eight hours of indirect sunlight every day and an average temperature of 70-75°F.

Maintain the heat mat at a temperature of 70°F and mist the branches twice a day. Water the potting mix daily, keeping it moist but not soggy. The humidity dome should remain on at all times to prevent the exposed portion of the stem doesn’t dry out.

It can take a while for the cuttings to form roots: from a few weeks to a few months. So be patient, and keep those little pear tree hopefuls warm and moist for as long as you need to.

Softwood cuttings can root in as little as three weeks, but semi-hardwood will typically take a minimum of six weeks.

You can check for root formation by gently pulling on the stem. If you feel a little resistance, then you know it’s started to take root.

If you begin to notice a fuzzy look on any part of the stem, remove it gently with a cloth and open the vents in the humidity dome to allow just a bit of dry air to enter and keep that mildew away.

As the roots develop, you’ll be able to see them through the clear plastic of the containers.

If tiny blossoms or new leaves start to appear but the roots aren’t one to two inches long yet, you’ll want to trim away the new growth to keep the plant focused on growing those roots.

When you see that the roots are more than two inches long, you’re headed toward success. Now it’s time to repot your fledgling pear trees.

Repotting Pear Tree Cuttings

To repot a successfully rooted cutting, fill an eight-inch pot with fresh, sterile potting soil, leaving a hole in the middle that’s about the size of the clear plastic cups you started with.

Carefully loosen the edge of the clear plastic cup with the baby tree inside and gently lift it out. Place it in the new pot and tamp the soil down around the developing root ball. Mulch with a thin layer of straw or wood chips to help retain moisture.

Water the newly transplanted pear cutting thoroughly and set in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight through a window.

If you don’t get enough sunlight during the day, you can place a grow light near the plant and turn it on for a few hours in the mornings and evenings before the sun rises.

You’ll need to keep them growing indoors or in a greenhouse for up to a year after you repot them. Water them a few times a week, or whenever you notice that the top layer of soil is drying out.

During this time they should grow foliage but if you see any flower buds, be sure to remove them.

Then in the springtime, when your rooted cutting is between six and 12 months old, plant out your baby tree into your orchard. It will take three to five years for it to grow large enough to bear fruit.

But won’t those first fruits taste extra-sweet!

Learn how to grow rudbeckia, a low-maintenance flower recognizable for its vibrant yellow and orange petals with a striking black center. Rudbeckias are easy to grow and care for, making them a perfect choice for those new to gardening or looking for a hassle-free addition to their garden. I love planting rudbeckia at the end of my raised beds to attract butterflies, bees, and other beneficial insects.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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How to Grow Rudbeckia: Black-eyed Susan Growing Tips

Rudbeckia belongs to the Asteraceae family and is native to North America; however, it can now be found growing worldwide. 

Rudbeckia blooms from mid to late summer into fall and grows best in temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29.4°C) during the day and above 55°F (12.7°C) at night. Once established, Rudbeckia plants can tolerate drought conditions and higher temperatures. As a result, rudbeckia often survives and thrives during the intensely hot summers of my low desert Arizona garden. 

Rudbeckia is a hardy plant that can also thrive in cooler temperatures. In addition, it can withstand light frost, making rudbeckia a good choice for gardens in cooler climates.

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Rudbeckia varieties to try:

Black-eyed Susan varieties can be annual, biennial, or perennial and grow well in zones 3-9.

Rudbeckia plants can grow up to 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide. Depending on the variety, the flowers can range from 1-7 inches in diameter. 

Rudbeckia hirta varieties to try:

• Cherokee Sunset Mix: Tall cutting variety with large, double, bicolor flowers. 
• Cherry Brandy: Red variety available from seed. 
• Chim Chiminee Mix: Rust tones with large flower heads and quilled petals. 
• Denver Daisy: Large yellow blooms with red centers and unique coloring. 
• Indian Summer: Large blooms with yellow petals and black centers. 
• Black-Eyed Susan: Heirloom, native wildflower blooms for 8 weeks or more.

Rudbeckia Triloba: Very tall 5-6’ (1.6-2m), with multiple stems on each plant. 

Rudbeckia hirta and Rudbeckia triloba varieties are best suited for cutting.

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When to plant rudbeckia:

Plant seeds or transplants outside once the soil warms to 70°F (21°C). Fall planting results in earlier spring blooms.

When to plant rudbeckia in the low desert of Arizona:

Start seeds indoors: August – January

Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – March

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Choose the right location to plant black-eyed Susans: 

Rudbeckia needs at least 6 hours of sunlight to thrive. It tolerates shade but will not produce as many flowers as in full sun. The soil should be fertile, well-draining, and moist. Rudbeckia grows best in loamy or sandy soil that is slightly acidic to neutral pH.

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How to plant rudbeckia: 

Start annual or biennial types from seed. Divide perennial cultivars in the spring or fall. 

If you want to get a head start on growing rudbeckia:

1. Start indoors 6-8 weeks before planting outside.
2. Plant the seeds in seed starting mix and keep them moist until they germinate.
3. Harden off seedlings before planting them outside.
4. Plant seedlings out once they are 3-5” tall.

To plant rudbeckia seeds in the garden, wait until the soil warms to 70°F (21°C). Then, lightly cover the seeds with soil and keep them moist until they germinate. 

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How to grow and care for rudbeckia:

Rudbeckia is a low-maintenance flower that is pretty drought resistant and can grow in various soil types. However, it does prefer well-draining soil and needs to be watered regularly until it is established. After that, it can tolerate some drought conditions.

Provide support for tall varieties. Remove any faded flowers to encourage blooming and minimize self-seeding. Keep flowers harvested to promote more blooms. 

Proper spacing, removing dead plant material, and avoiding moisture on the leaves can help prevent diseases. Diseases to look out for are crown rot, leaf spot, mildew, and rust.

Divide perennial plants every few years to keep plants healthy and avoid crowding. In colder climates, protect the plant from harsh winter weather. Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots from freezing.

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Rudbeckia tips for cut flowers:

When harvesting rudbeckia for cut flowers, harvest anytime after the blooms are at least halfway open. Make the first cut at ground level above 3-4 side shoots. Then, remove all foliage below the flower.

Flowers last 8-10 days in a vase with a floral preservative. Adding a few drops of bleach can prevent murky water common with rudbeckia blooms.

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End-of-season care for rudbeckia plants:

At the end of the season, cut back perennial rudbeckia plants to about 6 inches from the ground. This will help encourage new growth the following year. Rudbeckia is an ideal plant for a wildflower garden if allowed to reseed. 

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We dutifully prune our fruit trees and our rose bushes, but not all of us are taking the same care with our tomatoes.

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Doing the right type of pruning at the right time (and on the right plants) can actually increase your harvest dramatically, and it can keep your plants healthier than they might be otherwise.

Doing it wrong, on the other hand, can ruin the tasty bonanza.

Don’t worry, I’m not trying to cast gloom and doom over your garden. Pruning your tomatoes isn’t all that hard!

Coming right up, here’s everything we’re going to go over to help you nail it:

Unlike pruning fruit trees or berry bushes, pruning tomatoes is entirely optional.

You will still be able to grow a big old harvest if you save the pruners for other work. But it can make a big difference in the size, quality, and quantity of your fruit.

If you want to give it a try, read on.

Which Tomatoes Need Pruning?

There are two types of tomato plants: determinate and indeterminate.

Determinate types grow to a certain height, and then they stop. Indeterminate plants don’t have a natural stopping point. They’ll keep growing indefinitely until the end of the season.

The only types that should be pruned are indeterminate ones. Leave determinate types alone.

When you buy your plant or review the seed packet, the tag or description will tell you which type you have. If it doesn’t, be sure to look up this information to confirm what you’re working with.

Why You Should Prune

In a few words, pruning increases the size and number of fruits on the plant.

Since indeterminate types grow and grow, they tend to produce too much foliage and stems.

This growth shades the fruit, reduces air circulation, and takes up some of the energy that could be directed to fruit growth.

When you limit the number of stems and leaves, the plant can redirect its energy to growing big, juicy fruits.

The improved airflow reduces the chances of fungal or bacterial problems as well.

When to Do the Work

There’s no set time to start pruning. Just keep an eye on the plants. Once you start to see flowers forming an opening, it’s time to break out the pruning shears.

This usually happens some time in mid-June to mid-July, depending on where you live.

After this first round, you’ll need to prune again in two weeks, and every two weeks after that until the fruits start turning red or whatever their mature color is.

Prune when the plants are dry. If it just rained or you accidentally splashed water on the leaves when you were irrigating – something you should try to avoid – wait until the plant is dry.

How to Prune Tomato Plants

Before we jump in, we need to define a few important terms:

The main stems are the parts of the plant that grow upwards, and that support the lateral branch growth.

The branches come out of these main stems and tend to be smaller and grow either horizontally or at an angle rather than upright.

Suckers grow in between the stems and the branches at the joint. These are smaller still, but they will eventually grow large enough to produce fruit.

The problem is, the suckers take up a lot of energy, and they aren’t great producers. So, let’s get rid of them!

Cut these suckers off as close to the base as you can.

You can do this using scissors or pruners, or just pinch them off with your fingernails. Whichever method you choose, clean your tools between plants with soapy water.

Also, remove any suckers that pop up at the base of the plants from the roots.

If you leave the job for too long and the suckers grow large, instead of cutting them off entirely, snip a little bit away from the base, allowing a few leaves to remain.

This protects the stem from sunburn after being suddenly exposed.

Don’t remove more than a third of the foliage at one time.

What About Determinate Types?

I know we said that you should never prune determinate types, but there are a few exceptions.

If a branch breaks or looks like it might be diseased, off with its head!

Similarly, if you have two fruits growing pressed up against each other, eliminate one.

Over time, the lower branches might start to turn yellow. Prune these off, too.

You should also remove any suckers that form below the first flower cluster.

Otherwise, you can pretty much leave determinate types alone. Since the size and the general number of tomatoes that will be produced are built into the plant’s genetic structure, further pruning will only reduce your harvest.

Some Tomatoes Need a Little More Love

Gardening is all about absorbing new information and changing the way we do things as needed.

If you’ve been letting your indeterminate tomatoes do their thing without trimming, it’s time to switch things up a little. I have no doubt you’ll be happy you did.

Now, for the most important part: what kind of tomatoes are you growing? Are you a fan of big old beefsteaks? Prefer sweet-as-candy cherries?

Tell me about it, and how you use them, in the comments section below.

Pruning isn’t the only thing you need to know about when you’re growing and using tomatoes, obviously. Looking for more information? Check out a few of our other guides, starting with these: