Fine Plants for Spring Bloom in the Rock Garden and at the Front of the Flower Border
Hardy, perennial, more or less evergreen, low-growing plants which bear a profusion of bloom in early spring. They are invaluable in the rock garden and wall garden, as edging to flower borders, and as groundwork for taller plants in spring flower beds. Unfortunately, they are apt to be rather short-lived where hot summers prevail. Young plants seem better able to withstand adverse conditions than older ones; hence it is a good plan to raise some new plants each year. They may, in fact, be successfully treated as biennials. They are widely distributed in mountainous regions along the coast of southern Europe and Persia and belong to the Mustard family, Cruciferae. Aubrieta (previously spelled Aubrietia) is named after Claude Aubriet, a French painter of natural history subjects.
They need a sunny or only lightly shaded position and may be planted in fall or spring.
Ideal Wall Plants
Where summers are not excessively hot, Aubrietas are ideal plants for draping a garden wall; if planted on top of the wall or in crevices between the stones in well-drained, sandy, loamy soil, they spread and furnish a delightful show of bloom in spring.
When to Sow Seeds
Aubrietas can be increased in several ways. Seedlings are raised by sowing seeds in boxes (flats) of sandy, loamy soil, placed in a cold frame or slightly heated greenhouse in March—April. The seedlings are transplanted 2 in. apart in other boxes of similar soil and when well rooted are planted in nursery beds or in cold frames until large enough for their final positions. After blooming, old plants may be lifted and separated into rooted pieces for replanting.
How to Take Cuttings
Cuttings should be inserted as soon after flowering as possible in boxes of sandy soil placed in a frame kept closed. If a stock of old plants exists, the flowering shoots should be cut off when the blooms have faded and a mixture of leaf mold and sand worked in among the shoots: the latter will then form roots freely and, if removed and transplanted in autumn, will bloom the following spring.
In Europe, many beautiful named varieties of the Italian A. deltoidea are grown, but in America, it is more usual to raise plants from seeds. Seedlings vary considerably; good forms may be selected for vegetative propagation.
Named after Achilles, who is said to have used it as a treatment for his wounds (Compositae). Yarrow, milfoil. Hardy perennials, for the border or border rock garden.
Species grown today
Border Achilles filipendulina, large, plate-like heads of yellow flowers in summer; cultivars include ‘Gold Plate,’ 4-5 feet, ‘Flowers of Sulfur, 2 feet, soft sulfur yellow flowers and powdered leaves, and ‘Canary Bird,’ 1-2 feet.
Achilles millefolium, form of the native ‘Old Man’s Pepper’ ; cultivars are `Cerise Queen’, 2 feet, with rose-cerise flowers in July in a loose head, `Crimson Beauty, 24feet, and ‘Fire King, 2-2.5 feet (probably the best).
Achilles ptarmica (sneeze-wort), 2 feet, a white-flowered native, has several good cultivars of which ‘The Pearl’, 2feet, with small, tightly double flowers is the best.
Achilles sibirica, 1 feet, White flowers; `Perry’s White , 2-3 feet, is a fine variety.
Rock Garden Yarrows
Achilles ageratifolia, 4 inches, grey-white leaves and white flowers.
Achilleschrysocoma has mats of grey leaves and yellow flowers on 4-6-inch stems.
Achilles huteri, silvery tufts, short-stemmed white flowers.
Achilles King Edward‘ (syn. A. x lewsii)4 inches, grey-green mats, buff-yellow flowers all summer.
Achilles portae, 4 inches, grey leaves, white flowers.
Achilles prichardii 4 inches, grey mats, white flowers.
Achilles rupestris, 4-6 inches, foliage creeping, sprays of white flowers, May.
Achilles tomentosa. 9 inches. leaves grey, flowers golden yellow; needs protection from winter dampness; var. aurea flowers deeper yellow.
Where to plant and grow Yarrow
Achilleas flourish in almost any soil, provided it is not sour or waterlogged, and revel in the sunshine. They prefer lime but are quite tolerant of acid conditions. They have tiny or double daisy-like flowers collected in loose clusters or flat heads and bloom in summer. Foliage is fern-like, stems stiff and unbreakable and the fragrance somewhat pungent. Some varieties are recommended for winter arrangements of dried flowers, the best being A. filipendula, *Gold Plate’, and if the heads are stored in powdered alum until quite dry, they last well and retain all their color. Plant in autumn or spring or divide the plants at this time. Sow seed 1/2 inch deep in early summer. Border kinds should be lifted and divided every three or four years and the shoots cut down in winter.
Evergreen shrubs, 5-6 ft. high, with large, glossy, laurel-like green or variegated leaves and clusters of red fruits, each containing a single seed. The flowers are small and not showy, and male and female flowers are borne on different plants. They grow wild in Japan, China, and the Himalayas, and belong to the Dogwood family, Cornaceae. The word Aucuba is derived from the Japanese name of the shrub, aokiba. Aucubas will live outdoors in very sheltered locations near New York City but are generally hardy only where milder winters are the rule.
As Pot Plants
Aucubas are very satisfactory for cool rooms and sun porches and are good for growing in large pots or tubs as terrace plants. They thrive in any ordinary soil. From spring through fall they need plenty of water but should be kept drier in winter.
Will Thrive Beneath Trees
They thrive in any good garden soil, either in full sun or partial shade, and withstand a good deal of dryness at the roots; they are among the best evergreens for planting beneath the shade of trees. They will, in fact, thrive where many other plants and shrubs will perish, even beneath the shade and drip of large trees, provided the soil is not quite impoverished. Propagation can be effected by means of cuttings.
When to Take Cuttings
If terminal shoots, with two or three side branches, are inserted in a propagating case in a greenhouse—temperature 60 degrees during spring or summer—they form roots in a few weeks and may soon be planted out of doors. Similar cuttings will also form roots in August in a cold frame, or even out of doors.
Sowing Seeds and Layering
Seeds, cleansed of the outer fleshy pulp, may be sown as soon as ripe in autumn, in pots of sandy soil in a greenhouse—temperature 50-55 degrees. Fresh plants are sometimes raised from branches layered in spring, and large shrubs can be divided in September. As cuttings are in every way satisfactory, it is rarely necessary to resort to any other means of raising stock.
Very little pruning is required, for young plants grow naturally into shapely bushes; overgrown plants should be cut back in March or April. Planting may be done in spring or fall.
Green and Variegated Leaves
Aucuba japonica has green leaves, but the varieties with variegated leaves are chiefly grown. A male plant should be planted among every six female plants to ensure a good crop of berries. Two of the best varieties with variegated green and pale yellow leaves are variegata, the Gold-Dust Tree, and picturata (also called latimaculata and aureomaculata).
An old Latin name for violet (Violaceae). A genus of some 500 species of hardy perennials, mainly from northern temperate regions, including violas, pansies, and violets, of which there are many hybrids and strains.
Species grown today
Viola adunca, hooked spur violet, to 4 inches, violet or lavender with white eye, spring, North America.
Violaarvensis field pansy, 6 inches, cream, Europe including Britain, Asia, annual weed.
Viola cornuta, horned violet, 9-12 inches, flowers violet, June to August, Pyrenees; cultivars, including the `Violettas’, derived mainly from this species, are available in shades of yellow, plum-purple, rosy-lilac, blue and white with a yellow eye.
Violacucullata, 6 inches, white, veined lilac, April to June, North America.
Viola x florairensis, 4 inches, mauve and yellow, spring and summer. hybrid.
Viola. gracilis, 4-6 inches, deep violet, April to August, Balkans, Asia Minor vars. alba, white; ‘Black Knight’, purplish-black; lutea, golden-yellow; major, violet.
Viola hispida, Rouen pansy, to 8 inches, violet, summer, Europe. V. labradorica, 4-6 inches, porcelain-blue, summer, North America. V. odorata, see Violet.
Violapalmata, 6 inches, violet-purple, summer, North America.
Viola rupestris, Teesdale violet, to 2 inches, bluish-violet, Asia, Europe including Britain, North America.
Violasaxatilis, 4-8 inches, violet, summer, Europe, Asia Minor. V. x wittrockiana, see Pansy.
Where to plant and grow Violas
Violas do best in moist, well-drained soil and in light shade. Propagation of cultivars is by cuttings rooted in late summer in sandy soil in a cold, shaded frame. Species and strains are raised from seed sown in light soil in a cold, shaded frame in late summer.
A Southern European Plant That Is Popular in Garden and Greenhouse
Showy annual plants from southern Europe belonging to the Daisy family, Compositive. They have simple alternate leaves and branching stems 1 1/2-2 1/2 ft. high, bearing large heads of yellow, yellowish or orange-colored flowers which are in full beauty during the summer. Calendula is derived from calendae, the calends, the first day of the ancient Roman month-an allusion to the almost continuous flowering character of this plant. Calendulas do best in full sunshine and in rather dry soil. They are raised, from seeds sown out of doors in the spring or early autumn where the plants are to bloom the following year and are very easy to cultivate.
When to Sow Seeds
The seeds are sown in ordinary soil in a sunny position outdoors in spring to provide flowers during the summer and, in mild climates, in September to furnish plants that will bloom in winter and spring. They may be scattered broadcast or sown in rows 12-16 in. apart. The seeds are covered to a depth of 1/4 in., and the seedlings are thinned, as soon as they are an inch or so high, to about 12 in. apart. The seedlings may be transplanted if desired. Frequent hoeing between the plants is necessary to keep down weeds. The flowering season is prolonged if the flower heads are removed as soon as they begin to fade. The plants from the spring sowing begin to flower in July and continue to bloom all through the summer and far into the autumn except where very hot, humid summers prevail. Such conditions cause Calendulas to produce fewer and smaller flowers or to cease blooming entirely and perhaps even to die. Plants raised from seeds sown in a comparatively cool location in July or August and later transplanted to their flowering quarters will bloom in fall until killing frost. They are good for window boxes, are frequently used in summer plantings and make good pot plants for spring flowering in the greenhouse.
The chief kind is the Common Pot Marigold, Calendula officinalis, a native of southern Europe, 1 1/2-2 1/2 ft. high with light green leaves and hort stems branching from the base and bearing single or double, yellow flowers, 2-3 in. across, during the greater part of the year.
Blooms of Brilliant Coloring
C. officinalis has given rise to many varieties which bear much finer, larger, fully double, and more brilliantly colored flowers. Some of the finest strains offered by seedsmen are: Chrysantha, rich yellow, and Orange Chrysantha; Orange King, the earliest to bloom, double, orange; Lemon Queen, lemon yellow; Radio, with quill-like, orange petals; Golden Beam, golden counterpart of Radio; and Prince of Orange, deep orange with black center.
The blooms of the Art Shades strain range through buff, apricot and cream, and sometimes two or more colors are blended in one flower.
The Chrysanthemum-flowered Calendula has semidouble flowers of an attractive pale yellow shade. Other kinds are the Field Calendula, C. arvensis, a European plant, 2 ft. high, with single yellow flowers, and the Madeira Marigold, C. maderensis, with orange-colored flowers on erect stems 2 ft. high.
Greenhouse Culture
An easy way to enjoy a few flowers of Calendulas during early winter is to lift, before severe frost, some of the smaller plants from a midsummer-sowing that is flowering in the outdoor garden and plant them singly in rich soil in 6 or 7-in. pots. A succession of flowers will be borne if they grow in an airy environment with good light and where the temperature drops at night below 55, not seriously below 40, degrees.
To get the best results, however, seeds should be sown especially at any time from mid-July to mid-August. Flowers may be expected from this sowing from October through to February. Sow in a pot or flat indoors or in a protected area outdoors, such as a cold frame, where shade can be given until the seeds germinate. Any good garden loam which is well drained is satisfactory for germination provided continuous moisture is available. The seedlings should be transferred individually to 3-in. pots as soon as they are large enough to handle. The soil used for this potting should be loam (good topsoil) of a friable nature. Grow the plants in these pots, in semi-shade, until roots almost envelop the soil ball. Then, before they are tightly pot-bound, and suffer from lack of root room, they should be planted in their flowering quarters in well-drained garden loam enriched with thoroughly decayed organic matter and a light dusting of 5-10-5 or other fertilizer (see Fertilizers) high in phosphorous.
This final planting may be into pots that measure 6-8 in. in diameter but they are most satisfactory when they are planted in benches of soil in an airy greenhouse where the temperature is allowed to drop to 45-50 degrees at night during winter months. Space the plants 12-15 in. apart in the benches; the soil should be 5-6 in. deep.
A second sowing of Calendulas, made late in October, will provide flowers in the greenhouse February—April.
Ample ventilation of the greenhouse is all-important, particularly if the calendula growths are crowded. Without a free circulation of air, a leaf spot disease is likely to ruin the crop.
Thin the growths to 7 or 8 branches to each plant and remove excess side growths in order to get large flowers with long stems. The chrysantha varieties, which have deeply fringed petals and very double flowers, have been popular for many years. Campfire, Art Shades and Lemon Beauty are among the best. Careful watch must be kept for early signs of attack by pests and disease and prompt remedial measures taken.
Economic Uses
Besides being of great value as a cut flower, the flower heads are used, when dried, in cookery to flavor soups and stews, as well as for coloring butter. The florets were once used to heal wounds and prevent sickness. The flowers and shoots of Calendula officinalis, the common Calendula of gardens, have stimulant and diaphoretic properties. They were at one time popular as a country remedy for the treatment of ulcers, etc. An infusion was used for external application and the drug was also taken internally.
In many places in the United States columbines (Aquilegia ssp.) still grow wild. Highbrow hybrids dominate the marketplace, but even they seem to retain some of that wildness. While cleaning out an overgrown greenhouse once, I noticed columbines of indeterminate variety growing up through the cracks between the slate floor’s slabs. In my own garden they tend to self-seed, coming up everywhere but where I intend them to be. They are much like cats, domesticated to a point, but still inclined to go their own way.
Shakespeare celebrated columbines in his works, as did Chaucer. They have been cultivated in Europe for centuries, and in America ever since John Winthrop, an early Puritan leader and governor of the Massachusetts Bay colony, introduced a European variety, probably Aquilegia vulgaris, here in the 1630’s. A 1792 engraving of this species from a book on medicinal plants is in the archives of the English Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew. In an early case of cross-cultural exchange, the great English plantsman, John Tradescant, the younger, visited the young Virginia colony and sent seeds of native North American Aquilegia canadensis back to England in 1640. No matter where you live, if you have a cottage-style garden, you probably have some columbines in among the roses and hollyhocks.
The red and yellow Aquilegia canadensis that intrigued Tradescant is one of the most common native columbines. Despite its Canadian species name, it blithely ignores manmade boundaries and flourishes in much of the United States. With its nodding, complex flowers, it is characteristic of many plants in the genus. Individual blossoms are composed of several small, elongated trumpets or bells that flare at the tips. Aquilegia canadensis flowers also have the “spurs” that are common to many columbines. These spurs are actually modified petals that hold the nectar that makes the plants so attractive to hummingbirds and other pollinators. They also give the flowers an almost exotic look. A good friend of mine, who gardens a little but observes a lot, refers to columbines as “outer space flowers” for this reason.
The horticultural marketplace is full of columbines of all sorts. Almost all have attractive green leaves, with each leaf composed of three lobes. There are singles and doubles, tall and short varieties, cultivars with variegated foliage, and flowers that can be spurred or unspurred. In fact, you can find a columbine to match even the most exotic garden color scheme.
I recently ordered Aquilegia x hybrida ‘Tower Blue’, which is similar to older cultivars that sometimes go by the common name “Granny’s Bonnet. Tower Blue’ is a double variety, and it reminds me less of an old-fashioned bonnet than of the rather complicated hats worn by both Queen Elizabeth and the Queen Mother over the years. I am very hopeful that the effect of these small blue chapeaux will be charming rather than fussy in my garden.
One of the most floriferous assortments of hybrid columbines is the “Music Series. These plants form 18-20-inch mounds, produce an abundance of bi-colored blooms, and have the characteristic spurs. For a taller mix, try Aquilegia x hybrida ‘McKana Giants’. These rise to a statuesque 3-feet, and feature large, spurred single flowers in a range of colors. If you have a rock garden, or want columbines for the front of a border, Aquilegia flabellata, a short Japanese native with blue-green leaves works well. The ‘Nana’ hybrid has bi-colored flowers that are bluish-purple and white.
Anyone who has columbine in the garden probably also has leaf miners. These pests work their way through columbine foliage, leaving a characteristic meandering white trail behind them. Unless you are extremely finicky, there is nothing much to be done about leaf miners. Actually, the trails are not that unattractive, and the overall vigor of the plant is unaffected. You can, of course, pick off the blighted leaves if they bother you.
Columbine is particularly good for people who like a little randomness in the garden. They self-seed freely if left to their own devices. Since most of the varieties in cultivation are hybrids, you can never be exactly sure what will come up when the seeds germinate. Plant professionals have this same problem, since propagation of columbines is done almost exclusively from seed. If a particular color or form meets all your needs in a particular area of the garden, grow only that type. At least when nature takes its course, and the pollinators make their rounds, you have a chance of avoiding random variations.
From the Greek mimo, ape; the flowers were thought to look like a mask or monkey’s face (Scrophulariaceae). Monkeyflower, monkey musk, musk. A genus of hardy annual, half-hardy perennial, and hardy perennial plants grown for their showy flowers. They are found in many temperate parts of the world, particularly North America. Species grown today Where to plant and grow a […]
Organic gardens are as good for the earth as they are for its lucky inhabitants. The secret to growing a healthy, lush garden all begins with a single seed. This guide covers all the basics for starting seeds so that you can revel in your gardening wizardry this spring.
Are you planning to start a garden this year? Congratulations! It’s a big deal! Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a beginner, growing a garden is good for everybody. It feeds the soul and the soil and can even feed your family.
Starting a garden off right with healthy seeds sets the roots for how the garden will grow for the rest of the year. Sure, you can help manage sick plants and dried-out leaves, but starting seeds with good intentions and mad skills will make the rest of the year’s jobs a whole lot easier.
Some of you may think I’m crazy, but I believe that how you care for seedlings will be reflected in the plant that grows and the fruit that ripens. The garden is resting now. Perhaps even covered by a blanket of snow. Now, there is ample time to slow down, plan, and nurture the very best plants to grace your garden beds.
Let’s get this gardening season started with this guide on starting seeds.
Experienced gardeners can save the seeds from their plants to use the next year.
The 10 Steps for Starting Seeds
“I made this!” I gloat while serving up a dish made entirely of food that I grew in my garden. Well, “gloat” is probably not the right word. I prance around like the fantastical wizard I am, cheering about my mad skills in making real food from tiny seeds.
It took me months. I had some fatalities. But overall, it’s fairly simple to grow from seeds. And more importantly, it’s awesome. Here are some basics for how to start seeds at home.
Make sure to label your seeds so you know exactly what they all are. Trust me, you will forget.
1. Choose Your Seeds
Starting seeds in the spring (or even winter) is one of the best ways to save money. While you could buy a pack of snapdragons at the garden centre to fill your containers, why not start them from seed at a fraction of the price? You also get way more varieties when you go the seed route.
This list covers my favourite annual flowers to grow from seed, while this list covers some of my go-to perennial flowers. Keep in mind that starting perennials from seed is often more difficult and time-consuming, so it is better suited for those with a few gardening seasons under their belt.
Seed companies in your area should sell the right seeds for your climate but do make sure that you pick the right plants for your experience level. If you’re a seedling yourself when it comes to propagation, don’t bother starting watermelons in Northern Ontario. Many seed companies will also list a difficulty rating that will help to guide you.
You might even be able to find some seeds in a seed library.
2. Read the Packet
If you want the best possible start for your seeds, your best bet is to read the packet. Most seed packets will list everything you need to know to start the seeds and their special requirements, like how deep to plant the seed, how much light they need, how long they’ll take to germinate, soil temperatures required, etc.
I cover all the basics of reading a seed packet in this post if you want to ensure you’re buying the right seeds and those that will actually thrive in your garden.
3. Choose a Container
You can start seeds in just about anything you can find around the house that will create a mini-greenhouse, or you can buy all sorts of interesting setups to best suit your needs.
Greenhouse Kits
Many different greenhouse kits are available now. Most will have a plastic tray with a clear plastic greenhouse dome. Some come with a soilless mixture for starting seeds, like peat pellets that expand to a mini seed pot when soaked in water.
Others may have coconut fibre pots that you can transplant right along with your seedling. Others may even have a heat mat that gently warms soil to improve germination.
The beauty of these kits is that you can start a large number of seeds individually in one tray (up to 72) and many are made for small spaces like windowsills. The drawback is that the seedlings will need to be replanted, either in the garden or a larger pot, in a few weeks. Leaving seedlings in small pots with no nutrition will cause unwanted stress to the plants.
Seed Starting Trays
Garden retailers will sell many different types of professional-grade seed-starting trays, domes, and inserts with features like root training, moisture control, automatic watering, and grow lights. Certainly, many of these features have value in starting the year’s plants off on the right foot and can be used over and over.
Household Items
An inexpensive and creative way to start seeds is to use household items as seed containers. Lining a seed tray with pots made from toilet paper tubes, newspaper, or egg cartons will cost nothing
At times, your family may think you’ve gone mad, given how excited you will become when you get to take home the plastic cake dome from the party. But come on, that’ll make a really great greenhouse dome, right?
Search for biodegradable paper products you can plant right in the ground or food-safe plastic containers that you can use as mini-greenhouses for your containers if you are on a budget.
Paper egg cartons are one of my favourite inexpensive household items to use as a seed starting container.
4. Growing Medium
You can buy a pre-made seed starter soil, or you can make your own with a mix. I make my own mix using a peat-moss alternative, sterilized compost, perlite, and vermiculite. This mixture is light and holds moisture well, so it is wonderful for helping seeds germinate.
All growing mediums will need some time to absorb water, so add moisture and let it soak in for an hour before planting.
Be sure to use a sterile mix if you are starting seeds indoors. Soil or compost from the garden will bring in all sorts of critters, like soil gnats, which will drive you freakin’ crazy as you run around your propagation trays like a mad person swatting and squashing an endless supply of teeny tiny flies.
Seed starting mix needs to be sterile.
5. Water Your Seeds
Germination will be best in a moist environment for most seeds, so keeping the soil damp and a greenhouse dome on top will keep the right amount of humidity for optimal germination.
Keep the soil from drying out by checking it daily. Water gently, from the bottom where possible, so as to not damage the seedlings about to emerge.
When learning how to start seeds, having just the right amount of water is important. You never want the seeds to dry out, nor do you want the soil to be soggy.
Make sure to vent your container regularly to prevent fungal growth.
6. Get the Right Lighting
Seeds won’t need light until they emerge from the surface of the soil, but then they will need strong sunlight for most of the day to prevent them from becoming leggy (overly tall and spindly = weak).
You can supplement a lack of sunlight with fluorescent lighting, either by buying a set of grow lights made for seed starting or by making your own with fluorescent shop lights.
You don’t need fancy lights to help your plants grow. This was my DIY set-up!
7. Treat Damping Off
“Damping off” is a term for a fungal growth that looks like fuzzy hairs on the seedling stem. This fungal growth will kill the seedling, so it’s bad, really bad.
To prevent damping off, occasionally spray the greenhouse dome with a bottle of 3% food-grade hydrogen peroxide and vent it on a regular basis to regulate humidity.
I also recommend watering with my chamomile fungicide spray. Chamomile naturally prevents diseases such as damping off.
It’s almost impossible to get rid of damping off, so prevention is best.
8. Thin Your Seedlings
Generally, the seed instructions will suggest that you plant 2-3 seeds per pot and thin out all but the strongest. This seems to be the thing that some gardeners have the hardest time with.
If three strong tomato seedlings have popped up in one tiny peat pot, then the gardener rushes off to get tweezers to separate out the three wee plants and re-pots them all.
More inexperienced gardeners will damage each plant, giving none a strong chance at survival, so it’s best that you grab a clean pair of scissors, snip all but the strongest seedling in each pot and be done with it.
Choose the strongest seeding and snip any remaining seedlings in the same container.
9. Hardening Off
As the seedlings grow into plants and the date to plant outside gets near, it’s time to start hardening them off or toughening them for their natural environment.
I like to start by opening a window a few hours a day so they get a breeze. Then, start moving the trays outside, out of direct sunlight, for a few hours. Start at one hour and gradually increase to a full day outside.
By the time your plant date has arrived, you can safely transfer your tough little soldiers directly into the ground, with some delicious compost and a thorough watering, to brave the elements on their own.
Seedlings are used to indoor conditions, so make sure to gradually transition them to outside.
10. Set Your Expectations
Starting seeds is such an interesting and magical process, especially for children, so it’s the perfect activity to do as a family this coming spring. The months that you’ve spent germinating and raising seedlings will be a series of trial and error, so expect some loss.
Not every seed will germinate, not every seedling will survive being transplanted, and not every kind of plant will do well in your garden.
The gains will be clear when you have piles of leafy greens taking up every inch of your windowsills, bursting to get outside. Starting the plants off yourself ensures that you are in charge of the health of the plant and can control what goes into it. And the satisfaction you’ll feel from starting your own seeds is tremendous.
My kiddo loves starting seeds with me and planting them in the garden.
FAQ About Starting Seeds
Should you cover seeds with plastic?
Yes. This helps to keep the moisture in and increase temperatures. It essentially acts as a mini greenhouse.
Cover your seeds with a clear plastic container (I like salad boxes) right after you’ve planted and watered your plants. Every day, vent the dome and clean it with food-grade hydrogen peroxide to prevent damping off. Leave the dome on until the seedlings reach it.
Do seedlings need sunlight to survive?
Yes. Seeds don’t need sunlight until they’ve germinated (sprouted above the soil). Prior to this, the seed carries all the energy the plant will need to sprout. But once it has germinated, the seedling will need lots of sunlight to grow well. Otherwise, they get leggy and weak trying to reach for more sun.
Consider using a grow light if you can’t get enough sunlight in a windowsill for your seedlings.
Now therefore saith the Lord: Be converted to me with all your heart, in fasting, and in weeping, and in mourning. And rend your hearts, and not your garments, and turn to the Lord your God: for he is gracious and merciful, patient and rich in mercy, and ready to repent of the evil. Who knoweth but he will return, and forgive, and leave a blessing behind him, sacrifice and libation to the Lord your God? Blow the trumpet in Sion, sanctify a fast, call a solemn assembly,
Gather together the people, sanctify the church, assemble the ancients, gather together the little ones, and them that suck at the breasts: let the bridegroom go forth from his bed, and the bride out of her bride chamber. Between the porch and the altar the priests the Lord’s ministers shall weep, and shall say: Spare, O Lord, spare thy people: and give not thy inheritance to reproach, that the heathen should rule over them. Why should they say among the nations: Where is their God? The Lord hath been zealous for his land, and hath spared his people.
Joel 2:12-18
Today the season of Lent begins. May we turn to the Lord and remember the great things He has done for us.
Who needs red roses for Valentine’s Day when there’s this sweetheart of a succulent that packs oodles of charm in a tiny package? While it’s true that nothing beats the smell of fresh roses, this heart-shaped plant wins when it comes to gifts that last.
Please keep reading to learn more about the hoya heart.
Above: Single-leaf hoya hearts are starting to rival red roses when it comes to Valentine’s Day presents. The Bouqs sells their Desert Love duo in pink pots for $54.
Leading up to Valentine’s Day, single-leafed hoyas fly out of nurseries, florist shops, and garden centers. And you can see why: It’s petite, it’s heart-shaped, and its petals don’t fall off. Its cuteness seems tailor-made for the holiday. Just be advised that it won’t grow into one massive heart, nor will it sprout multiple hearts. That’s because the single leaf is rooted as a leaf cutting, not as a stem cutting with nodes. Still, that single leaf planted in well-draining soil can live for years. If you prefer a hoya heart plant that will grow multiple leaves, make sure to buy a rooted version that has at least two leaves.
Native to Southeast Asia, hoya heart is a tropical vining succulent with thick and waxy evergreen leaves. If conditions are right and you have a mature plant that’s a little root-bound (they like tight quarters), you will be gifted clusters of fragrant white blooms. But even without the flowers, the plant is attractive. I love houseplants that wind and weave, and especially when they trail down shelves, and some hoya heart stems might be as long as six feet or more.
Since hoya hearts come from tropical areas, they do appreciate some warmth and humidity. Either mist them every so often or place them on a steamy bathroom shelf. Another option if your home has dry air is to place your potted hoya on a bed of pebbles filled with water to add ambient moisture.
For bonus charm and uniqueness (and a bigger price tag), look for two unique varieties: Hoya kerrii ‘Variegata’ with yellow edges and Hoya kerrii ‘Splash’ with speckled leaves.
Today we’re visiting TJ Mrazik’s garden in Worcester, Pennsylvania.
My home garden has won four Blue Ribbon awards from my state horticultural society. It is a naturalistic, meadow-style garden with soft color palettes and hues made up predominately of cool- and warm-season ornamental grasses intermingled with wildflowers. It supports native pollinators and wildlife. Always changing and maturing, the garden is interesting all four season of the year.
The photos are from late summer, fall, and early winter. They demonstrate the blending of soft palette, subtle hues, texture, and movement of a naturalistic, meadow-style garden. It is almost like an impressionistic painting.
Matured little bluestem (Schizachyriumscoparium, Zones 3–9), Korean feather reed grass (Calamagrostis brachytricha, Zones 4–9), morning light miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’, Zones 4–9), and tufted hair grass (Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’, Zones 4–8) comprise a lovely winter show.
Pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergiacapillaris, Zones 6–9), little bluestem, Amsonia (Zones 5–8), and ‘Goldtau’ tufted hair grass put on a fall show of evolving colors.
Panicles of Korean feather reed grass stand tall amid a show of pink muhly grass and little bluestem.
Late summer: Amsoniahubrichtii, ‘Goldtau’ tufted hair grass, Agastache ‘Blue Fortune’ (Zones 4–10), and little bluestem
Late fall: confluence of pink muhly grass, little bluestem, and ‘Goldtau’ tufted hair grass
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Are you looking for gardening classes for yourself?
Trying to figure out how to start a garden can be overwhelming. You ask yourself questions like “What do I do first?” “How will I know what to plant?” and “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?” Let me help you get started and remove some uncertainty about how to start gardening.
On the other hand, you may have been gardening for a while and have a basic understanding of gardening principles, but you’re looking for more in-depth information. You may be looking for ways to make your garden more productive. Thegardening classes I teach may be what you need to take your garden to the next level.
I offer monthly online gardening classes in “Growing in the Garden Academy” through Patreon
“Growing in the Garden Academy” includes a monthly live online gardening class where we cover seasonal topics. I also share what I’m planting, fertilizing, harvesting, and starting indoors (the “Low Desert To-Do List” for my garden) twice a month.
When you join “Growing in the Garden Academy,” you gain access to recordings of all past classes.
Each month, there is a new class with topics chosen by current members of GITG Academy.
I teach in-person classes frequently throughout the Phoenix Area
I offer in-person classes regularly throughout the Phoenix Valley. If you sign up for my monthly newsletter, I first announce my upcoming classes there. In-person gardening classes are always a lot of fun. I love answering questions and want to ensure everyone learns something. We often learn from one another during class.
Upcoming Gardening Classes
(click on the class name to register or get more information)
Are you looking for gardening classes for your organization?
I’m passionate about helping others learn how to garden. Teaching gardening classes is one of my favorite ways to do just that. Whether taught in-person or virtually through “LIVE” online classes, everyone learns together in a fun, relaxed setting.
“I reached out to Angela Judd about teaching gardening classes for the Mesa Public Library after hearing a glowing review of her expertise from another staff member. We set up two classes – Fall Gardening in Arizona and Composting and In-Bed Vermicomposting Basics – to present to the community on two separate nights within a two-week timeframe. The night for Fall Gardening in Arizona was amazing! The library saw a full house of eager gardeners of all levels; wanting tips, tricks, and overall information on how to plant a successful garden in the fall. Angela’s presentation was abundant in advice, covering anything and everything a gardener of any caliber would need. The following week, when she presented her Composting and In-Bed Vermicomposting Basics class, the library again saw a large community of gardeners who were either currently composting and/or vermicomposting or wanting to begin and did not know how to start. Once more, the wealth of knowledge that shined through in Angela’s presentation was seen. With such high praises and a wonderful reception, I can’t wait to have her back at Mesa Public Library for even more classes!”
Brianna Mesa Public Library
In-person gardening classes in the Phoenix valley
Online group gardening classes are available
Online group classes are an excellent option if you don’t live in the Phoenix metropolitan area but would still like gardening classes. The classes are easy to arrange on your platform, or I can set up a class for you using CrowdCast. Live, virtual classes allow everyone to ask questions and participate in real time.
“I reached out to Angela to teach our employees a live, virtual class on composting. Angela was responsive and willing to work with me on how I wanted the class to be done. She did a fantastic job teaching our employees about composting. She had a great deck that she put together, and was happy to answer any questions our employees had.
We recently had Angela back for another live, virtual class teaching us about container gardening and again, she was fantastic! The class was extremely informative, well thought out, and again she was happy to answer all the various questions from our employees. It’s amazing how much she knows about all things gardening! I truly cannot recommend Angela enough; she is a wonderful teacher, great to work with, and we can’t wait to partner with her again in the future!“
Allston Program Manager, Employee Engagement & Community T-Mobile
Is there a topic you would like your audience to learn more about? I’m happy to answer questions and discuss seasonal topics and current gardening trends.
In-studio televised gardening presentation with Arizona Midday“Gardening in Arizona” television segment with Arizona Midday“Fall Gardening in Arizona” television segment with Arizona Midday
Carrots are one of our family’s favorite garden vegetables. We love the flavor of homegrown carrots; there is nothing quite like pulling up a carrot, rinsing it with the hose, and eating it right in the garden. Learn how to grow carrots with these five tips.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How to Grow Carrots: 5 Tips for Growing Carrots
1. How to grow carrots: Plant carrots from seeds directly in the garden
Sow carrot seeds directly in the garden. Carrot seeds are tiny and notoriously tricky to germinate (see tip #3 for germination tips).
Seed tape makes spacing carrots quick and easy. Carrot seeds are embedded into the tape at correct spacing intervals, requiring less thinning later.
Pelleted seeds are larger and easier to handle; this allows for more consistent spacing.
Do not purchase carrot transplants. Carrot roots do not like to be transplanted.
Seed vendors offer carrot colors like purple, white, red, yellow, and orange. Home gardeners can also choose from many shapes and sizes.
Danvers varieties are sweet, crisp, full-flavored, and easy for the home gardener to grow. Best for eating fresh and shorter storage.
Imperator varieties have less flavor but store well. (This is the variety commonly found in grocery stores.)
Chantenay varieties are good all-purpose carrots that can handle heavy soils.
Nantes types are best for fresh eating, often considered the sweetest and most tender type of carrots.
2. Learn how to grow carrots and take advantage of the long planting season for growing carrots
Start carrot seeds outside 3-5 weeks before the last spring frost. Many locations often have an additional planting in mid to late summer. Check local planting guides for when you can plant.
Plant carrots from September 15 through March in the low desert of Arizona. Carrots are one of my favorite parts of fall gardening.
Plant carrot seeds when soil temperatures are between 45°F – 85°F.
Carrots taste best when they mature in cool soil (under 70°F / 21°C).
Choose an area with sandy, well-drained soil that is free from stones and fresh manure. Rake and smooth the bed carefully before planting. Carrots also grow well in containers.
Thinly sow seeds ¼ inch deep.
Plant carrots every 3 weeks for a continual harvest.
3. Carrots need consistent moisture to sprout and grow
After planting, soil must be kept moist for 10 days. Spray lightly twice a day in very sunny weather. Seeds will not germinate if they dry out.
During hot weather, cover the planted seeds with burlap to keep the seeds moist. Remove the burlap once sprouts appear.
Once seeds have sprouted, regular watering helps them grow quickly and continuously.
Watch the video below for a quick tip for germinating carrot seeds.
4. Thin carrot seedlings for larger carrots
Thinning the carrots ensures each carrot has enough room to reach mature size.
Two weeks after the plants germinate, thin any carrots that touch each other.
In another two weeks, thin carrots to 2 or 3 inches apart.
Use scissors to cut off young seedlings rather than pulling them by hand.
5. Harvest and store carrots correctly
Harvest the largest carrots first to give the smaller carrots room to develop. Fully-developed carrots will have a bit of blunting at the end of the tip and have good flavor.
If you aren’t sure if carrots are ready to harvest, remove soil from around the tops of the carrot roots. Harvest carrots when tops are about 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. The top may begin to “pop” out of the soil.
Leave carrots in the ground until ready to eat, but harvest carrots before the summer heat if you live in very hot places like Arizona. (The heat can turn them bitter.)
A tip to remember — the shorter variety carrots are best eaten fresh, while longer carrots are more suited to storing.
Carrots store best if you clip the foliage, leaving about 1 inch of stem. Leaving the greens on the carrots draws moisture out of them, causing limp carrots.
Let washed carrots air dry before storing them in the refrigerator. Store them in a sealed ziplock-style bag, and they will last for months.
When ready to use harvested carrots, scrub, but don’t peel them! Many vitamins are in the skin or close to the surface.
Chamomile’s daisy-like flowers are a beautiful and practical addition to your garden. Roman and German chamomile are two common types of this popular herb. Learn the differences between the two types and how to grow chamomile with these five tips.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Chamomile
1. Understand the differences between German and Roman Chamomile
German and Roman chamomile have many similarities but also a few key differences:
2. Plant chamomile correctly and at the right time.
German chamomile does best started from transplants. Plant German chamomile after last spring frost date.
Roman chamomile does best started from transplants. Plant Roman chamomile when soil temperatures reach 45°F.
Space both types of plants 8 inches – 12 inches apart.
If growing from seed, scatter chamomile seeds and lightly cover them with dirt. Keep soil moist until the seeds sprout. Thin to groups of 2 or 3 plants about 8 inches apart.
Chamomile grows in full sun, but needs partial shade while roots are getting established.
Plant 1-2 chamomile plants per square foot for square foot gardening.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Growing strawberries is a great way to add fresh fruit to your home garden, and it couldn’t be easier.
The first step in enjoying home-grown strawberries is learning what it takes to care for the plants year after year.
I’ve designed this detailed guide to teach you all about how to grow strawberries. I’ve included information on everything from water, sunlight, soil, and fertilizer, to pruning, harvesting, managing pests, and much more.
Strawberries growing on a plant in my garden
Quick Strawberry Plant Care Overview
Scientific name:
Fragaria x anannassa
Classification:
Fruit
Common names:
Strawberry
Hardiness:
Zones 3-10
Temperature:
40-80°F (4.4-26.6°C)
Flowers:
White, pink, or yellow, blooms spring-summer
Light:
Full sun to light afternoon shade
Water:
Keep soil evenly moist, do not overwater
Humidity:
Average
Fertilizer:
Fruiting plant food spring-summer
Soil:
Rich, fertile, well-draining
Common pests:
Slugs, weevils, beetles, fruit flies, thrips, birds, rodents
Information About Strawberries
Strawberries (Fragaria x anannassa) are a cold hardy, fruit-bearing perennial that’s native to South America.
They are known for their thick green foliage and red, sweet fruits, and they make a lovely ground cover. The oval-shaped, fuzzy, serrated leaves and flowers grow on thin stems.
Blossoms typically appear in the spring and are most commonly white, but can also be pink or yellow.
They’re prolific spreaders that can quickly fill up a flower bed or container. After fruiting, they send out runners, or tendrils, that will develop into new ‘daughter’ plants wherever they touch the ground.
Different Types
There are three main categories of strawberry plants, and each has many varieties with subtle differences in temperature tolerance, disease resistance, and more.
Start by choosing the type you’d like to grow, then select the proper cultivar for your climate and garden.
June-bearing – This type is known for a prolific once-per-year harvest of large, sweet berries. It sets fruit in early to mid-summer and the harvest lasts about 3 weeks. Popular varieties include the Jewel, Honeoye, Allstar, and Cavendish.
Everbearing – This one can produce throughout the entire season, but usually has two main fruiting periods: the first in late spring and the second in early fall. They tend to have fewer runners and smaller fruits, but there are more cold-hardy options. Popular cultivars include Ogallala, Fort Laramie, and Quinault.
Day-neutral – These plants produce fruit consistently throughout the growing season from spring through fall. They can produce a large yield overall, but each harvest is generally fairly small. Look for the Seascape, Alpine, or Tribute varieties to try.
Two types of strawberries growing together
Hardiness
Strawberries are perennials in most zones. The exact hardiness range depends on the variety, but anyone in zones 3-10 can grow them.
The plants prefer a cool environment, and will struggle in the heat – especially in hot, dry climates. So if you live in a warmer region, make sure yours gets afternoon shade and regular waterings.
How Do Strawberries Grow?
Strawberries grow from self-fertile flowers after they’re pollinated by bees, insects, or the wind. The tiny fruits start out yellow or green, fade to white, and then become deep red when they’re fully ripe.
The fruits will begin to form in the center of the flower shortly after pollination, and it takes about 4 weeks before they’re fully ripe.
More blooms will continue developing, even as the strawberries begin to ripen. So check back daily to pick the mature ones, which can help encourage the plant to keep producing more.
Before discussing the proper care, we should talk about where and when to grow your strawberries first. The right timing and location are critical to a bountiful yearly harvest.
Where To Grow
The best location for your strawberries is somewhere that gets full sun and has fertile, well-draining soil.
Make sure to leave 8-12” of space between each crown so they have plenty of room to spread. They do great in raised beds and containers too, which makes them easier to control.
When To Plant
Plant your strawberries when it’s consistently above 40°F (4.4°C), or as soon as the ground is workable in early spring.
Ensure the crown sits just above the soil line. Planting them too deep can lead to rot, but if they’re too high the roots can end up drying out.
Raised bed filled with strawberry plants
Strawberry Plant Care & Growing Instructions
Now that you have the perfect growing location picked out, it’s time to talk about how to care for your strawberries. My tips below will help make them a simple and prolific addition to your garden.
Sunlight
Strawberries need a minimum of 8-10 hours of full sun daily. Too much shade can inhibit growth, flowering, and fruiting.
If, however, it regularly gets above 85°F (29.4°C) in the summer where you live, use a shade cloth to protect your plants from the intense afternoon sun to prevent wilting.
Water
Strawberries like even and consistent moisture, and do not like to be over or under-watered. Aim to provide at least 1” per week from spring through fall.
You’ll need to irrigate more when your plant is blooming, sending out runners, and during the late fall when it stores energy for winter. If you have trouble getting the amount right, a moisture gauge is a useful tool that can help.
Always water near the base of the plant to avoid splashing soil or moisture sitting on the leaves, both of which can lead to disease or fungal problems.
Strawberries growing in pots
Temperature
Strawberries grow best when it’s between 60-80°F (15.5-26.6°C). The foliage will begin to go dormant at around 35°F (1.6°C) or lower.
If it gets colder than that where you live, cover the crowns with a 4-6” layer of mulch, such as shredded leaves or clean hay, to protect them from extreme winter weather.
High heat can quickly wilt the foliage, cause flowers to drop off, and damage existing fruits. So provide shade during the afternoon if it’s going to be above 85°F (29.4°C) for an extended period of time.
Fertilizer
Regular feedings of an all-purpose or fruiting plant fertilizer are a great way to help maintain the soil nutrients in your strawberry patch.
Start applying liquid options, like compost tea or fish emulsion, in early spring once you see new growth, and repeat every 2-4 weeks through the end of summer.
If you prefer, you can apply slow-release granules or side-dress with compost or well-rotted manure in the spring and summer.
Soil
Strawberries grow best in a rich, well-draining, and slightly acidic medium with a pH of 5.5-6.8, which you can check with a soil probe.
Amend garden beds with compost or well-rotted manure to help improve fertility and drainage. For containers, choose a loamy, rich, high-quality potting soil.
Pruning is a key part of long-lasting health, pest management, and controlling the runners. Strawberries are prolific spreaders but, though they can multiply and grow quickly, they’re easy to manage.
So trim off any offshoots you don’t want with clean, sharp precision pruners as needed to prevent them from overtaking your garden.
Once the foliage starts to die back in the fall, remove all of the dead leaves. This helps prepare them for winter, and rejuvenates them for new growth in the spring.
Pest Control Tips
Unfortunately, many bugs and animals enjoy the sweet taste of strawberries as much as we do. Weevils, slugs, thrips, spotted wing drosophila, rodents, and birds are some of the most common offenders.
The best method of control is prevention. Keep your plants clear of debris from old leaves, dying foliage, fallen or rotten fruit, weeds, and old mulch. An insecticidal soap, slug bait, or diatomaceous earth can also help to control bugs.
For animal pests, bird netting or row covers are helpful, but wait until after flowering to apply them, or they can inhibit pollination.
Disease Control Tips
Strawberries are prone to several diseases and fungi, such as leaf spot viruses, powdery mildew, gray mold, root and crown rot, and verticillium wilt.
Discolored or spotted leaves, misshapen fruit, gray or white furry growth, or soft, brown rotting stems and fruit are signs that your plant may be infected. While a fungicide may help slow the spread, prevention is key.
Keep the ground between your plants covered with clean mulch and clear of dead or rotting foliage or debris. Prune them regularly to maintain air circulation, and always water properly to prevent moisture from sitting on the leaves.
Tips For Harvesting Strawberries
Wait until the fruits are entirely red before harvesting them. Don’t pick any with white edges, shoulder, or tips. But do not leave fully ripe ones on the plant for too long, or they could begin to rot or attract pests.
The exact timing and duration of your harvest will depend on the type of strawberries you grow. Look for red fruits in early to mid-summer, or about 4 weeks to one month after flowering starts.
Use clean, sharp micro-snips to cut the ripe strawberries from the stems just above the leaves, as pulling them off can damage the crown. Store your crop unwashed in the fridge for the longest shelf life.
Strawberries are easy to grow once you understand what they need, but there are several common issues that you may face. Use these tips to help get your plants back on track.
Wilted Leaves & Stems
High temperatures, overwatering, root rot, and drought are common causes of wilting and limp foliage.
Give your plant shade in the afternoon when it gets above 85°F (29.4°C). Ensure the soil is consistently moist and not soggy, but never leave it bone-dry for extended periods.
Brown Leaves
Improper watering, disease, pests, high temperatures, or too much fertilizer could all be causes of brown leaves on your strawberries.
Keep the soil moist without leaving the plants in standing water. Provide shade in the afternoon during high heat, and reduce how often you’re fertilizing, or try diluting the dose.
Soft, Mushy Fruit
Over-ripened strawberries, wet growing conditions, or diseases can all lead to mushy fruit.
Pick them as soon as they’re red, maintain proper air circulation with consistent pruning, and irrigate at the base of the plant rather than overhead.
Holes in Fruit
Large holes or chunks missing in your strawberry leaves or fruits are a sign of bugs, birds, or rodents feasting on them.
Apply a bird net or row covers to deter animals, and regularly clean the area around the plants to reduce areas for bugs to hide.
Spotted Leaves
Many forms of leaf spot disease can affect your strawberries. They cause red, orange, purple, black, or brown spots to appear on discolored leaves. It may look bad, but it’s not usually harmful to the fruit.
Proper watering and plant maintenance are the keys to keeping them healthy. Once affected, prune away any damaged fruit or foliage and apply an organic fungicide to prevent the spread.
Dry brown strawberry plant leaves
FAQs
How long does it take for a strawberry plant to produce fruit?
A strawberry plant can produce fruit in the first year of growth. Once bees or wind pollinate the flowers, it takes about 4 weeks for the fruits to fully ripen.
Are strawberries easy to grow?
Strawberries are easy to grow in the right environment. Choose a variety that’s hardy in your zone and plant it in a full sun area with rich, fertile, and slightly acidic soil. Keep them evenly moist, water at the base to prevent soil-borne diseases, and trim them regularly for the best success.
Do strawberry plants come back every year?
Yes, strawberry plants come back every year in growing zones 3-10. They typically bear fruit for 3-5 years, with reduced yields as they age. Allow runners to root and produce new plants annually to replace older ones.
Do strawberry plants spread?
Yes, strawberry plants spread via runners. They send out rooting tendrils after fruiting has finished. June-bearing types produce the most runners, but all varieties can spread this way.
If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!
Impatiens flowers are like jewels in the garden. They bloom reliably and for a long time in vibrant, colorful hues. Some thrive in shady areas, and others shine brightest in full sun.
They’re low maintenance and the plants are covered in flowers, with some species blooming from spring through fall. There are types perfect for hanging baskets, containers, or garden beds.
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The only downside is if you want dozens of plants like I do, it’s going to eventually hurt your wallet.
Even if you buy the cheapest annuals in the clearance aisle, the cost will add up if you want lots of them. So what to do? Start your impatiens from seed! Seed packets are the most affordable way to get these annuals started in your garden.
No matter the species you want to fill your garden with, you can start the seeds in the same way.
Here are the steps of the process that we’ll go over:
Impatient to start? Gather those supplies and let’s start digging in.
When to Sow
You can direct sow impatiens seeds outdoors if you want, but you’ll have more success if you start them indoors, as it gives you more control over the growing environment and the process.
Plus, you can give them a headstart when the weather is still cold and miserable outside.
Impatiens can’t survive a freeze. So if you intend to start them outdoors, you would need to do so after the last predicted frost and when the soil temperature is around 75°F. That’s the soil, not the air temperature.
Otherwise, start them indoors and put those pots or containers onto a heat mat to keep them nice and toasty.
Maintaining the right temperature is key. If you don’t, the seeds will take too long to germinate, and they’ll likely rot before they can even get started.
Impatiens are slow and can take two or three weeks to germinate. After germination, you need about four to eight weeks for the seedlings to grow large enough to transplant outside. So you’ll need to sow the seeds indoors about 11 or so weeks before you intend to plant.
Count back from the last predicted frost date in your area to figure out when to start the process. If the last predicted frost in your area is the end of April, then you should plan to sow in early February.
Preparation
It’s easiest to sow in a tray or cells, but you can also use individual pots if you like. If you go that route, use a small container that’s about four inches in diameter. I prefer to use a plug tray.
I recently discovered iHORT’s QPlug Propagation Kit, and it’s a game changer for my propagation projects.
It comes with a plug tray and an outer tray to catch the draining water. It also has pre-drilled plugs made of coconut coir, sphagnum peat moss, and coconut shell.
Whatever you use, it should be clean and have drainage holes for the water to exit.
Place your pots or trays on a heating mat. If you aren’t using a plug system like the one above, grab yourself some seed-starting medium and fill your trays or containers.
Since you’re starting indoors, you’ll need to place grow lights about four to six inches away from the seedlings once they emerge.
The plants need about 12 hours of bright, indirect light, so if you can’t provide that from a window, you’ll need supplemental lighting.
It’s easiest to moisten the seeding medium in advance of sowing. You can either soak the soil with a spray bottle or set the containers in water to soak up the moisture from below.
If you wish to direct sow outdoors, work some well-rotted compost into the soil and sow them after the last frost or if you live in a frost-free area, in early February. Just make sure that the soil has warmed up to 75°F.
Sow Your Seeds
The timing is right, and the area is prepared – it’s time to sow those impatiens seeds!
Impatiens seeds are tiny, so handling them can be a bit of a challenge. You can either sprinkle them on the surface of the soil, use a moistening toothpick, or get yourself a seed sower.
I have been singing the praises of seed sowers ever since I received one as a gift. I typically do my best to sprinkle them evenly, but you know how hard it can be, they clump and fall too close together as you sprinkle them out of your hand or the packet.
A seed sower makes the job super easy, and it has saved me from wasting a ton of seeds and then having to do the thinning work later on after they germinate.
Place two seeds next to each other and set the groups about an inch apart. Press them into the surface of the soil, but don’t bury them as they need light to germinate.
Set a piece of glass or plastic over the trays to help retain the moisture while the germination magic happens. Keep the medium around 75°F by setting your heat mat to the appropriate temperature.
The soil needs to remain moist but not soaking wet while you wait for germination. Remove the cover and use a spray bottle to mist the potting medium so you don’t dislodge the seeds.
Remove the cover when they germinate and thin the seedlings to about four inches apart. Remember, you have to be patient with Impatiens species – it can take weeks for germination.
Continue to care for the seedlings by keeping the soil evenly moist until they have two true leaves.
Transplanting
When the seedlings have two true leaves and all risk of frost has passed, it’s time to transplant.
Impatiens need to be slowly exposed to the outdoors. Give them a day in a shady spot before moving them to the area where you’ll be growing them.
Leave them there for an hour and then put them back in the shade. The following day, give them two hours in the new location before moving them back to full shade.
Keep adding an hour each day until a week has passed. Now, you can put the seedlings into the ground or your chosen container if you’re going that route.
Prepare your planting site by working in lots of well-rotted compost into the soil, then dig holes twice as wide and the same depth as the plugs or containers the seedlings are currently growing in.
Gently remove the seedlings from their containers and place them in the holes you have prepared. Backfill with soil and water in well.
If you want to give harvesting and planting your own seeds a go, the process is a blast. Honestly, I go out and pop the seeds of my plants just for fun. It’s the little things in life, right?
Impatiens use what is known as “ballistic dispersal” to send their seeds far and wide. When ripe, the pods burst open in explosive dehiscence, sending the seeds several feet away from the plant.
If you want to catch the seeds before the pods burst, look for a pod that is full and plump but hasn’t split open yet. Gently lower a clear plastic bag over the top of it and turn it upside down. Pinch off the pod, keeping the plastic bag in place in case it bursts.
When they’re really ripe, the slightest touch will cause the pods to burst, and they shoot out harder than you might expect.
I’ve been hit in the eye and shot in the cheek, and both times it left a mark! That’s why you want the bag around the pod when you touch it, otherwise, the seeds might go anywhere.
Not all harvested seeds will grow true to the parent plant, so it’s best to purchase them if you want to be very certain about what you’re growing.
You can purchase them at many retailers, including places like Burpee.
Or grab a 50-milligram packet of Midnight Blend in vibrant red, burgundy, wine, lavender, raspberry, lilac, fuchsia, and pure red, available at Botanical Interests.
If you prefer the tall plants and big blossoms of balsam impatiens (I. balsamina), you can find a gram, ounce, or four-ounce packet at True Leaf Market.
Your Patience Is Going to Pay Off
If there’s something more satisfying than starting a big, healthy plant from a teeny, tiny seed, I don’t know what it is.
You started with a tiny nugget, and now you’re enjoying bounteous blossoms. It’s like alchemy. So long as you keep them warm and moist enough, these plants are pretty easy to propagate.
Which species are you starting? Have you run into any trouble with the process? Let us know what’s going on in the comments section below and we’ll help you sort it out.
Here at Gardenista, we love a good podcast, but niche-topic shows are often hard to find. With no designated categories for “home” or “design”—let alone “gardening”—on the major podcast platforms, it can be tricky to discover garden voices. So, we searched the streaming platforms and queried our community to find out what plant-obsessed podcasts we should be listening to. Below you’ll find eight garden podcasts that either the Gardenista team loves or are recommended by trusted friends and colleagues. But this is by no means a definitive list: As new shows launch (and we hope they will!) and as we discover others, we’ll plan to add them to our faves. Leave a comment below if we left out your favorite garden podcast.
Perhaps the original garden podcast, Margaret Roach’s “A Way to Garden With Margaret Roach” is a 25-minute public-radio program that airs weekly on Connecticut’s Robin Hood Radio and as a podcast on all the major platforms. Each week Margaret hosts a garden expert to discuss a seasonally-relevant topic. Over the 14 years it has been on the air, the show has won three silver medals from the Garden Writers Association of America.
Another public radio co-production (this one with North State Public radio), garden writer Jennifer Jewell’s “Cultivating Place” is less concerned with the daily activities of the garden, but rather “how and why we garden—what we mean when we garden.” Jennifer goes deep with her guests in every episode, and always leaves us with new ideas to consider. (For a review of her latest book, see Required Reading: ‘What We Sow’ by Jennifer Jewell.)
Jewell recommends this podcast from the Pacific Horticulture Society about “innovative thinkers contributing to a climate-resilient future through the power of gardens.” Jewell says, “I like how hard this podcast leans, with heart, into the academic “hard” sciences.” The podcast focusses on how gardens and gardeners can bfoster climate resilience and become leaders in the effort to slow climate change.
Above: The last time we rounded up our favorite podcasts was in 2017. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista, from The Best Garden Podcasts of 2017.
This show aims to show home gardeners how they can make their yards and gardens healthier and more sustainable. Produced in collaboration with the Berkshire Botanic Garden, the “Growing Greener” host Tom Christopher, a garden designer and writer, interviews gardening experts who are also leaders in working in harmony with nature.
Growing Greener’s Christopher confessed that he is not much of a podcast listener himself, but he does enjoy episodes of “The Native Plant Podcast,” a multi-host effort that publishes episodes sporadically. The hosts, who originally connected at the Cullowhee Native Plant Conference, liken themselves to a “garage band,” but Christopher says the relaxed, conversational tone is exactly what he likes about the show. The Native Plant Podvast had some of the leading native plant experts on the show, so there’s lots in the archive between new posts.
The podcast from Gardens Illustrated magazine asks its guests, “If you could create your dream garden from pieces of all of your favorite places, and if you could grow any plants in the world, what would you choose?” Despite the predictable format, garden designer Susan Nock told us that “it elicits super varying answers, and the host follows the guest’s lead and has really lovely conversations about their work and ideas.” Because this show is idea-based, it’s a fun listen for gardeners in different growing areas–not just the U.K.
Another podcast from a magazine, “Let’s Argue About Plants” is hosted by editors Danielle Sherry and Carol Collins of Fine Gardening. Plant nerds, this one’s for you: Sherry and Collins talk exclusively about plants and host horticultural pros, who “offer their wisdom and opinions about what you might want to grow in your garden.”
A promising newcomer, this podcast is hosted by author and houseplant expert Hilton Carter and his colleague Mollie Lee. After dabbling in podcasts in 2020, Carter has leaned into the medium with this new, weekly show. In addition to the conversations between Carter and Lee, they plan to sprinkle in guest features with plant community personalities, designers, and creatives, in general.
Today we’re in Redding, California, visiting with Carol Cowee.
Here’s how it started—bare ground that would become the new rose garden.
The soil was compacted, horrible red, rocky dirt. It took two men three hours to dig/chisel just 10 holes!
All that hard work paid off. Here is the rose garden at three years old.
A huge climbing rose, ‘Mme Isaac Pereire’, grows up a huge arbor made of chain-link fence posts. ‘Mme Isaac Pereire’ is an old rose in the bourbon group with incredible fragrant flowers.
A wildfire in 2018 destroyed 170 roses and the house. It was heartbreaking to see those burnt stems, which had been covered with fragrant flowers.
But there are survivors. Carol’s childhood wagon, made by her father, managed to survive the fire, and Carol found three baby cacti under the burned mother plants. Here is the cactus in full bloom; the little plant produced 35 blossoms.
A gorgeous, massive red lily (Lilium hybrid, Oriental group, Zones 4–9) is growing strong despite being in a small pot, and it blooms heavily in July when it’s 105°F daily.
A perfect rose is highlighted in a water bowl.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
People often think about how the weather will affect them. What should they wear to be comfortable throughout the day? Will their game get rained out? As climate change ramps up, extreme weather and temperature changes can significantly affect your home as well.
Fluctuating temperatures cause residential damage if you’re unprepared. Here are essential things to look out for when the weather changes and how to properly weatherize your house.
Impacts of Fluctuating Temperatures on Your Home
In recent years, climate change has induced unpredictable weather conditions, from downright hot January days in Pennsylvania to below-freezing temperatures in the southern states. According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, December 2023 was about 10 degrees Fahrenheit above average in the Great Plains. Abnormal temperatures also occurred for much of the nation in the new year.
Cold or hot temperatures may not affect you much if you stay indoors — simply turn up the heat or lower the air conditioning. However, over time, fluctuations in temperature can do the following to your home:
Create cracks in the foundation, leading to structural problems and water damage
Warping walls and floors with high temperatures and indoor moisture
Mold and mildew growth
Pest infestations
Strains on your HVAC and air conditioning systems
Reduce roof life spans and leaks
Freezing and burst pipes
For instance, Charleston, South Carolina, endured a cold front over Christmas 2023, leading to frozen and burst pipes across the city. Utilities responded to over 400 leaks per day immediately after the event, as temperatures began creeping up to the usual winter range.
7 Ways to Protect Your House From Fluctuating Weather
Inclement weather and fluctuating temperatures are out of your control. However, protecting your home is not. Here are seven ways you can weatherize your house and stop temperature-related problems in their tracks.
Schedule Annual Inspections and Repairs
Your roof, chimney, HVAC, water heater, septic, foundation and pool should all undergo occasional inspections and maintenance — some every year. You’ll especially want to check your roof regularly for damage and leaks if it’s over five years old and you live somewhere with unpredictable weather, heavy precipitation and wind.
Professional inspectors will check your home for signs of trouble, allowing you to stay ahead of potential problems and correct them before they cause significant and costly damage.
You should also inspect your roof from the ground during irregular temperatures. Freezing precipitation leads to the creation of ice dams, which may impair shingles and gutters, leaking water into your attic.
Adding weatherstripping to windows and doors will keep warm air inside and cold air outside. It also creates a sufficient seal to protect your home from rain and wind.
Weatherstripping is a DIY project you can complete in a weekend. In fact, you can buy weatherstripping kits with easy application instructions — such as adhesive foam — from the hardware store.
Caulk may be a more appropriate weatherproofing technique for stationary items like window or door frames.
If your home’s insulation is old or insufficient, adding new insulation can help protect it from extreme weather changes. Insulation improves circulation by closing air leaks, keeping your home warm in the winter and cool during the summer. Insulation also lessens the strain on your HVAC system, improves its performance and prolongs its life span.
Quality insulation — especially in the basement, crawl spaces, attics, walls and floors — will ensure proper indoor humidity, preventing condensation. Air moisture and wetter conditions encourage warping and mold.
The type of insulation you use depends on your climate, budget, where you plan to apply it and if you intend to add it yourself or hire someone. Spray foam and fiberglass insulation are most commonly found in homes.
Prepare Pipes for Cold Weather
When outdoor temperatures reach 20 degrees or below, you usually need to worry about frozen pipes — especially if you live in the south, where pipes get installed differently.
Never set your thermostat below 55 degrees when under a deep freeze warning. Also, it is best to allow faucets to drip to avoid freezing. Insulating pipes and faucet covers are other practical ways to maintain adequate plumbing temperature throughout the house.
If a pipe bursts, leaks water and refreezes, it can cause thousands of dollars in damages. Likewise, water leaks can turn to mold and mildew, affecting your household’s health.
Protect the Foundation With Landscaping
You can protect your home’s foundation from fluctuating temperatures by sprucing up the landscaping. Creating garden beds along the perimeter of your home insulates the structure during the hottest and coldest seasons.
You should avoid planting bushes and other ground cover directly against the siding. Many plants grow quickly and take up the necessary space anyway. Deciduous trees can also offer shade in the summer heat and allow warmth to enter your home through windows in the winter.
Winterizing shrubs with a plastic tarp protects them from frost and creates a greenhouse effect, locking in heat and warming the ground surrounding your home.
Scientists believe termite habitats could increase by 30.2% as global temperatures rise from climate change. This poses a significant risk to a home with wood decay. Of course, other types of pests may also infest your home amid fluctuating weather conditions.
If you notice feces resembling coffee grounds or sawdust, it could mean you have termites. They especially like to conceal themselves in dry wood in attics, eaves, cabinets and furniture. Mice, rats, squirrels and raccoons may also make themselves at home to get out of the freezing temperatures.
Call an extermination company immediately if you detect household pest infestations. Whether it’s termites, rodents or another unwelcome critter, an exterminator can address and manage the issue before your home undergoes severe damage.
Upgrade HVAC for Energy Efficiency
Installing a programmable thermostat will improve your home’s energy efficiency and indoor comfort while helping you save money on utility bills. It’ll also ensure your indoor temperature remains sufficient to prevent weather-related damages, like freezing pipes or excessive humidity.
Save up to 10% on heating and cooling costs by decreasing indoor temperatures by 7-10 degrees for eight hours during the day. Ideally, you can save the most energy at 68-70 degrees Fahrenheit while awake and even lower when you’re out of the house or sleeping.
Don’t Let Fluctuating Temperature Ruin Your House
Small changes go a long way in protecting your home from fluctuating temperatures. Investing in weatherization and ensuring your home is adequately sealed makes a significant difference in indoor comfort, prevents damage, and improves your household’s health.
Author Bio
Jack Shaw is a freelance writer specializing in home improvement, gardening, and caring for the outdoors. He’s the senior writer of Modded and has contributed his advice through sites like CAD Details, House 2 Home Organizing, Log Cabin Hub, and more.
