At some point, annual veggies took over the popularity contest. We’re so used to seeing neat rows of carrots, cucumbers, beans, and tomatoes that we forget there are other more beneficial ways for the home gardener to grow food. Let me introduce the layered garden to you!
I’m in the midst of planning my next garden at my new house, and I’m thinking big picture. The yard was neglected and minimal, so I’m starting with a pretty well-blank canvas.
I’ll be designing a food forest, which takes some careful planning and a few years of patience. I have an urban garden and a small yard, but even those with a patio garden can employ these more sustainable, regenerative practices.
Christina Chung’s book, The Layered Edible Garden, is based on a concept similar to food forests. Rooted in permaculture, it’s all about maximizing your space with a layered garden based on edible perennials.
These practices are rooted in the same values and energy, so I’m thrilled to share Christina’s approach to the edible garden with you.
There are many kinds of layered gardens. They are often well-planned and optimize space by combining plants with different heights.
Christina’s layered gardening practice follows a more natural system that’s less intensive on time, energy, and resources. It tries to fill in all the empty spaces in the garden that weeds might otherwise overtake.
“Traditional gardening often means fighting against nature taking over the space and turning it back into the thickly planted, layered space it would be without human intervention,” says Christina.
But a layered garden is also curated. This means it still produces plenty of food similar to traditional veggie gardens. However, it encourages you to think beyond the traditional veggies and focus more on edible perennials.
It follows permaculture practices and sounds very similar to my beloved food forest practice. But Christina’s approach is “more flexible” and perhaps more focused on gardens with small spaces.
You can also include medicinal or herbal plants as well as edible ones.
Why Layered Gardens Are the Way to Go
One of the biggest draws of a layered garden is that it optimizes your space. Many gardeners (myself included) are always looking for more gardening space. But many of us don’t consider the vertical spaces and the gaps. Just think how much you could plant under a tree or shrub!
“Filling in those missing layers creates so much more interest and beauty, and each one offers a chance to add something edible to the mix,” says Christina. “Each added layer can help you get more out of your existing garden space.”
Layered gardening is also great for your local wildlife. Planting a wider range of plants and less common species may attract more pollinators and beneficial bugs. They even act as bonus natural pest control.
One of the most immediate benefits you’ll notice is how much more low-maintenance layered gardening is. A fuller garden means less weeding, which is also great for soil health as it minimizes soil disturbances.
These gardens also rely on perennials more, requiring less seed starting and babying tender young annuals. You will even water less as you rely on perennials more.
Who Should Plant a Layered Garden?
I highly recommend layered gardens for those in an urban setting, as they’re great for those with limited space. It’s just one of the best ways to grow more food in a small space.
But absolutely anyone and any space can practice layered gardening.
It’s great for food gardeners and cooks but will also work for those who want a beautiful space. You can also have a most ornamental layered garden with food options. Or use this method to create a more lush space and minimize empty space.
“This is also a gardening style if you want to be creative and build a garden space that doesn’t look like everyone else’s in your neighbourhood,” says Christina. “Landscapes often take on a depressing sameness, with each garden featuring the same ten plants that are cheaply available at every nursery and big-box store.”
Rather than having distinct rules and practices, layered gardening is more of an overall approach. This means that anyone can benefit and grow from having a layered garden.
How to Start a Layered Garden
The first mindset shift of a layered garden is focusing more on perennials. These will naturally fill in the space with larger trees and shrubs and, as mentioned, require significantly less maintenance and resources.
Since annuals only grow in one season, they require significantly more work. “Supporting all of that quick growth means annuals need more resources,” says Christina. “That means more fertilizer, more water, and richer soil to grow in.”
Perennials also provide year-round interest, have longer harvest seasons, and support the local ecosystem. Yes, perennials will take several years to establish themselves and produce food. But down the line, it’s so little work.
When starting your layered garden, start small and work your way up. Don’t try to overhaul the whole garden in one season. Pick one area and start with that.
Before you rip our existing garden, plan out your layers and consider how you want to use your space. Make sure it’s still enjoyable and that you’re growing what you’re most interested in.
Start with the tallest layer, as this will affect the others. For instance, a large tree could create more shade, and you must ensure all plants match your garden’s conditions.
Fruit trees take a few years to bear fruit but once they do, provide an abundance of fruit.
The “Layers” of a Layered Garden
It’s time we start planning out our layers! I’ll give you a little breakdown of all the different layers, but check out Christina’s book for an in-depth look at the layers and some suggestions on what to grow.
Canopy Tree Layer
Your tallest layer begins with the tallest trees. There’s a good chance you already have large trees on your property or your city boulevard. In most cases, you stick with what you have.
“These are the large trees, reaching over 40 feet (12 m) tall, making them the layer that casts the most shade and has the greatest impact on the rest of your garden space,” says Christina.
If you don’t have any large trees or are starting a garden completely from scratch, the canopy tree layer is one of the biggest decisions in starting your layered garden.
Here are a few examples of canopy trees from Christina:
Your subcanopy layer consists of small trees. Most common fruit trees fall under this category. They take time to get established and bear fruit, but once they do, they provide plenty of food and year-round beauty.
Christina suggests putting these trees on the edge of your property. “Use subcanopy trees where you need beneficial shade and to gain extra height and screening from foliage, where you want a more compact package than a larger canopy tree,” she says.
Here are a few examples from Christina of subcanopy trees
Flowering quince.
Shrub Layer
The shrub layer is one of the most prolific and versatile layers. Many shrubs can be edible, beautiful, and also work as privacy screens.
Many of us already have shrubs in our backyards. And we love them because they’re so low maintenance and easy to work with.
Here are a sample of shrubs from Christina:
Some shrubs, like blueberries, you can also grow in containers.
“These plants are smaller than shrubs, so you can pack many of them in even the smallest garden,” says Christina. “There are also many species and varieties to choose from, with lots of edible options.”
One of the best ways to use vertical space is by including some climbers in your garden.
“Every building on your property has empty walls that could be covered with beautiful and delicious climbers,” says Christina. You can also create spaces just for your climbers, such as trellises, pergolas, and gates. There are many ways to beautify and utilize a climber.
Here is a sampling of some climbers:
Hops is a beautiful plant also great for sleep and relaxation.
Annual Layer
Yes, there is still room for your traditional veggie garden. After all, how else will you delight in the taste of a freshly grown tomato?
“Annual crops can also be a great option to fill empty spaces in time,” says Christina. “Most of your herbaceous layer will be dormant in the winter, leaving a bare and inedible garden.”
Ground Cover Layer
The low level of the garden shouldn’t be discounted either. Most think of a lawn, but there are more options.
Christina says, “Small, low-growing, carpeting plants play a key role in protecting the soil from erosion and summer heat while also eliminating places for weed seeds to germinate.”
Here are some ground cover options:
Wild strawberry
Wild ginger
Wintergreen
Thyme
Nasturtium
The Rhizosphere Layer
Another layer? Yes! There is also plenty going on below the surface. There are many edible and medicinal roots out there. The top of the plant may also contribute to a different layer.
It should be noted that you do need to disturb the soil to plant these veggies. “Choose locations that you can access easily, such as the perimeter of beds or the back of a border,” says Christina.
Here are some examples of edible roots:
Sunchoke
Oca
Taro
Onions
Radish
Sunchokes.
And that covers all the layers! For more on this very cool practice of making an edible layered garden, be sure to check out Christina’s book.
Above: On Day 4 the arugula was green and the radishes just germinating.
Next time, I’ll sow arugula and radish seeds separately.
The seeds of any vegetable or herb can be used for growing microgreens. Brassicas, in the so-called cruciferous family (named for their cross-shaped flowers), have the pleasing peppery flavor I like in these tidbits, and they have the most nutrition, bite for bite. Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbages, kohlrabi, mustards, arugula, brussels sprouts—each qualify. Spices like fenugreek and coriander are fun and flavorful, provided the seeds are fresh.
Above: Wild garlic mustard microgreens on a forest floor.
There is another seed option, which adds earth-friendly, invasivore fun to outdoor excursions: wild microgreens. Invasive mustards like garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) in the Eastern states and black mustard (Brassica nigra) on the West Coast are environmental scourges, producing thousands of seeds per plant at the end of their flowering season. Gather handfuls of their mature, skinny seed pods in early summer, shake them out, and germinate your own, back home. Other feral seeds that work well include lamb’s quarters and amaranths.
Above: A sprinkle of microgreens delivers outsize satisfaction.
Feta and Yogurt Dip with Microgreens
This creamy, satisfying dip is excellent with crisp, raw vegetables, but it is versatile (see below). Feta that is packaged in brine has a better consistency than the crumbled versions. I am partial to sheep’s milk, and other white cheeses in brine can also be used, if you are lucky enough to live near the Balkan or Middle Eastern markets that sell them. You are unlikely to need additional salt, but always taste, to check.
6 oz feta, broken up
¼ cup Greek yogurt
1 Tablespoon tahini
¼ teaspoon lemon zest
3 small celery ribs from the heart, finely chopped
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
A flurry of microgreens
Urfa biber (optional)
Black pepper (optional)
Raw vegetables (optional)
In a food processor combine the feta cheese with the yogurt and the tahini. Pulse until the mixture is smooth, scraping the sides down a few times to dislodge any whole lumps of feta. Spoon the smooth dip onto a serving plate, leaving some depressions on the surface for the olive oil to pool. Scatter the chopped celery across. Drizzle the olive oil over the surface, add the microgreens, and top with your raw vegetables before finishing with the urfa biber and black pepper, if using.
The dip, finished with the necessary bite of spicy microgreens, can also be:
slathered onto toast and briefly broiled.
tossed with warm, just-cooked vegetables, like carrots.
spooned into a pillowy bed for beans or chickpeas.
whisked into a thick dressing for chunky romaine or iceberg lettuce.
piled up as a foundation for warm, poached eggs.
mixed into egg salad in lieu of less-healthy mayonnaise.
Above: On Day 4 the arugula was green and the radishes just germinating.
Next time, I’ll sow arugula and radish seeds separately.
The seeds of any vegetable or herb can be used for growing microgreens. Brassicas, in the so-called cruciferous family (named for their cross-shaped flowers), have the pleasing peppery flavor I like in these tidbits, and they have the most nutrition, bite for bite. Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbages, kohlrabi, mustards, arugula, brussels sprouts—each qualify. Spices like fenugreek and coriander are fun and flavorful, provided the seeds are fresh.
Above: Wild garlic mustard microgreens on a forest floor.
There is another seed option, which adds earth-friendly, invasivore fun to outdoor excursions: wild microgreens. Invasive mustards like garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) in the Eastern states and black mustard (Brassica nigra) on the West Coast are environmental scourges, producing thousands of seeds per plant at the end of their flowering season. Gather handfuls of their mature, skinny seed pods in early summer, shake them out, and germinate your own, back home. Other feral seeds that work well include lamb’s quarters and amaranths.
Above: A sprinkle of microgreens delivers outsize satisfaction.
Feta and Yogurt Dip with Microgreens
This creamy, satisfying dip is excellent with crisp, raw vegetables, but it is versatile (see below). Feta that is packaged in brine has a better consistency than the crumbled versions. I am partial to sheep’s milk, and other white cheeses in brine can also be used, if you are lucky enough to live near the Balkan or Middle Eastern markets that sell them. You are unlikely to need additional salt, but always taste, to check.
6 oz feta, broken up
¼ cup Greek yogurt
1 Tablespoon tahini
¼ teaspoon lemon zest
3 small celery ribs from the heart, finely chopped
3 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
A flurry of microgreens
Urfa biber (optional)
Black pepper (optional)
Raw vegetables (optional)
In a food processor combine the feta cheese with the yogurt and the tahini. Pulse until the mixture is smooth, scraping the sides down a few times to dislodge any whole lumps of feta. Spoon the smooth dip onto a serving plate, leaving some depressions on the surface for the olive oil to pool. Scatter the chopped celery across. Drizzle the olive oil over the surface, add the microgreens, and top with your raw vegetables before finishing with the urfa biber and black pepper, if using.
The dip, finished with the necessary bite of spicy microgreens, can also be:
slathered onto toast and briefly broiled.
tossed with warm, just-cooked vegetables, like carrots.
spooned into a pillowy bed for beans or chickpeas.
whisked into a thick dressing for chunky romaine or iceberg lettuce.
piled up as a foundation for warm, poached eggs.
mixed into egg salad in lieu of less-healthy mayonnaise.
Greetings from the Mohawk Valley. We’re in our winter lull, as most of us are in the top half of the country. It has been a mellow winter thus far, and I’m looking for that to continue, though one storm can change the entire ballgame. Here are some pics of beautiful tulips I put together—nothing really special but lots of color.
The color of this classic, brilliant red tulip and the distinctive blotch at the center of the bloom are thought to have developed to promote pollination by beetles around the Mediterranean where wild tulips are native.
As wonderful as brightly colored, bold tulips are, the soft tones have their own subtler attraction. This white tulip with dew on it is an elegant beauty.
Double-flowered tulips boast extra layers of petals that totally change the look of the flower. This one also adds dramatic flames of red to the bright yellow petals. Just what you need after a long winter!
Not fully double, a few extra petals add interest to this lovely pink tulip.
This double is so full it almost doesn’t look like a tulip anymore. No wonder such flowers are sometimes called peony-flowered tulips.
Here are two different red-and-yellow tulips. The ones in the back are called fringed tulips because each petal edge is lined with a delicate fringe. The intricacies of these blooms beg to be looked at up close, so site them near the edge of a path or cut some to enjoy in a vase.
Fringed AND double, this pink variety is a frothy spring confection.
Parrot tulips have unusual petals that look a little shredded rather than fringed and often twist into unusual shapes, sometimes marked with splashes of green. This one looks like the classic variety ‘Black Parrot’.
What blooms are you most looking forward to seeing this spring?
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Sea thrift, Ameria maritima, aka sea pink, is a flowering herbaceous perennial for USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 8.
It is a member of the large Plumbaginaceae family of plants, which includes lavender-blue plumbago commonly found in the Mediterranean.
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A. maritima thrives with minimal water in poor soil and has a high salt tolerance. In the spring, it produces showy flowers in lavender, pink, or white.
Please note that all parts of this plant are toxic due to the species’ ability to absorb and bind heavy metals, such as copper, from the soil.
Read on and learn how to grow and care for sea thrift in your outdoor living space.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Let’s start with some background.
Cultivation and History
A. maritima is native to seaside locales across coastal Britain, northern Europe, and the North American Pacific Coast.
Upright clumps of flowering sea thrift are commonly found growing on windswept seaward cliffs and coastlines, where the soil is gravelly, well-draining, and saturated with salt. Deep taproots hold them in place.
The foliage is green and grass-like with bare flower stems that sport bobbing, rounded clusters of five-petaled blossoms enclosed in purplish, papery bracts from spring to summer.
This slow-spreading, non-invasive species reaches maximum dimensions of six to 12 inches tall and wide.
There are numerous subspecies, like the pink-flowered California sea pinks, A. maritima subsp. californica, and pink or white A. maritima subsp. sibirica, which is native to Alpine regions and is found growing wild in Colorado and northeastern Utah.
Plants have a high tolerance for drought, poor or rocky soil, heavy metal contamination, salt, and wind.
Sea thrift prefers full sun but tolerates part shade. It can’t tolerate dense, fertile, or moist soil. The crowns, where the stems and roots meet, rot under these conditions.
We strongly caution against consumption because we know that this plant may contain toxic heavy metals.
Historically, it was used by Scottish herbalists to treat conditions ranging from tuberculosis to hangover.
The species enjoyed a brief period of fame between 1937 and 1952 when an engraving of three spherical sea thrift flowers graced the reverse side of a three-pence British coin, aka the thruppenny bit.
The notion of the lowly coin representing thrift is the likely reason the species was chosen.
Let’s talk about how to start a plant.
Sea Thrift Propagation
There are four ways to propagate sea thrift: from seeds, basal cuttings, divisions, and from nursery transplants.
Sea thrift flower heads at the end of their life cycle.
Note that A. maritima has no seed pods. Instead, each blossom bract disperses one individual seed covered in papery chaff.
If you collect seeds from an existing plant, sow them in the fall, or store them in an airtight jar in a cool, dark, dry place to sow the following spring.
From Seed
To start from seed, you’ll need to collect them from a species plant rather than a cultivated variety if you wish to produce a true replica of the parent plant.
You may read otherwise, but seeds do not require any type of treatment prior to sowing.
Sow seeds directly outdoors in the spring after the last spring frost date, when nighttime temperatures are reliably 40°For above.
Alternatively, start seeds indoors in egg cartons or biodegradable seed starter pots about eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date to get a jump on the growing season.
You can also sow seeds directly outdoors in the ground or containers eight to 10 weeks before the first average frost date.
Press the seeds gently into moistened, gritty, well-draining potting or garden soil with a low nutrient content. They should remain at the soil surface or be barely covered.
Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and seeds sown in pots indoors should be kept in a brightly lit location. Expect sprouts in approximately 21 to 28 days.
Flowers started from straight species seed bloom in the second year. We’ll soon learn that there are cultivated varieties that bloom in the first year.
From Basal Stem Cuttings
Basal cuttings can be taken in spring or summer.
In spring, you can remove the new shoots that grow around the edges of a parent crown.
Here’s how:
Water the plant the day before so the soil is moist.
Reach under a clump of fresh, green foliage and bend it back to expose the shallow roots of the new growth. The edge of the clump should come away easily.
Sever the more mature roots underneath to lift part of the clump away from the ground.
Use your fingers to separate the individual new shoots. Each should have its own small tap root.
Replant as desired.
You can also take basal cuttings during the summer.
Use a clean, sharp knife to slice straight across individual stems at the soil level.
Dip the cut or heel ends into rooting hormone powder.
Work the garden soil to a crumbly consistency. Push the cut ends into the garden soil.
The depth should be just enough for the stems to stand upright when backfilled with soil.
Keep the soil moist but not soggy during the weeks it takes for roots to establish. Foliar growth follows root regeneration and signifies success.
By Division
You can also divide existing clumps of sea thrift before they bloom in early spring or at the end of the season in early fall.
To divide sea thrift clumps:
Water the clump one to two days before you plan to divide so the soil is easy to work.
Use a long-handled shovel to dig down at least a foot and unearth an entire clump. Place your shovel blade just outside the perimeter of the foliage and angle it toward the clump’s center.
Slice straight down through the clump to create multiple sections, each with roots and foliage.
Replant the sections as desired at the same depth and at least six to 12 inches apart.
Transplanting
After all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are above 40°F, you can transplant your seedlings or nursery starts.
Acclimate them to the outdoors gradually, for a few hours each day, over the course of about a week.
Work your garden soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. Do not add any organic amendments. The earth needs to be low in microbial activity and nutrient content.
If you wish to grow sea thrift in containers, use three-gallon pots with a depth of at least nine and a half inches to accommodate the woody tap roots.
Choose a potting soil that is gravelly and nutrient-poor, like this coco peat and perlite product.
This natural blend is airy, loose, and well-draining.
Transplant them into the garden or permanent outdoor pots at the same depth as the plants were growing in the starter containers.
The crown, where the stems and roots meet, should be slightly elevated above the soil level to facilitate drainage and inhibit rotting.
For multiple plants, space them six to 12 inches apart. Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged for the first year after planting.
Now, let’s talk about growing.
How to Grow Sea Thrift
Choose a location with full sun. Some shade is tolerable.
The soil should be very lean, with a gravelly, well-draining consistency. The ideal pH is in the 4 to 10 range, meaning it can be acidic, neutral, or alkaline.
Established flora has a high tolerance for drought, salt, and wind. Overwatering and excess ambient humidity are detrimental and may result in pest and pathogen issues.
Once established in a pot or garden bed, plants should only need supplemental water during prolonged dry spells.
Sea thrift requires no fertilizer.
Growing Tips
Cultivation is easy when you remember to:
Use a nutrient-poor, gritty, well-draining potting or garden soil.
Do not amend the soil with organic matter or apply fertilizer.
Allow a container depth of at least 9.5 inches for the long tap roots.
Provide a full sun location.
Keep the soil moist during establishment in the first growing season.
Avoid overly wet conditions.
The final point is the most crucial – ironically, waterlogged conditions are the nemesis of this plant in spite of having “sea” in its name!
Pruning and Maintenance
Clumps spread slowly, gradually increasing their presence in the landscape. You may want to divide them to redirect their path or establish them elsewhere.
Divide them in early spring before flowering or post-season in early fall.
At this time, you can also remove the dead centers of clumps that may have succumbed to rotting from overly wet conditions.
Prune back dead foliage as needed and deadhead spent flower stems during spring flowering to promote sporadic reblooming during the summer.
Alternatively, you can let the flowers run to seed and collect those of species plants to sow in the fall or spring.
Allow the evergreen leaves to remain in place post-bloom.
Sea Thrift Cultivars to Select
If you want to grow the species plant, with its vivid magenta-pink blossoms you can find plants available from Nature Hills Nursery in #1 containers.
Cultivated varieties are also available to home gardeners. Remember, if you intend to collect seeds for propagation, only those from the species plant will grow true.
Alba
A. maritima‘Alba’ has white flowers and grows to heights of three to six inches with a spread of six to nine inches. It’s hardy in Zones 4 to 8.
‘Splendens’ is a little more cold hardy than the species plant and is suitable for cultivation in Zones 3 to 8. It reaches a mature height and width of eight to 10 inches.
In addition, there is a species called false or great sea thrift, A. pseudarmeria.
It has broader leaves, larger bloom clusters, stiffer stems, and a taller stature than A. maritima. Mature specimens are eight to 10 inches tall and wide and will possibly grow taller in fertile soil that causes leggy stems.
‘Ballerina Red’ is a A. pseudameria cultivar suited to Zones 6 to 9. Like A. maritima, it prefers full sun but will tolerate partial shade.
Globular clusters of bright red spring flowers bloom from mid to late spring in the first year.
A. maritima is not especially prone to pests or pathogens, but it’s worth keeping an eye out for the following:
Leafhoppers
Leafhoppers are sap-sucking, hopping insects of various colors.
Their feeding causes light-colored speckling and their excretions are a breeding ground for sooty mold. Large infestations can cause leaf yellowing and desiccation.
Overly wet conditions, especially with organically-rich, poorly draining soil, may promote the proliferation of fungal conditions like leaf spot, rust, and stem and root rot.
Leaf Spot
Leaf spot disease is caused by a number of different fungal pathogens and appears as brownish spots with a yellowish halo and sometimes visible dark specks in the center.
Leaf drop follows. Removing affected foliage and treating with a fungicide should be effective.
Rust
Rust has similar symptoms, and is also caused by a variety of different fungi. Rust-colored leaf spots become blister-like, spreading and causing leaf drop.
Removing affected leaves may be effective, but many types of rust are fungicide-resistant.
Stem and Root Rot
Rhizoctonia solani, a soil borne fungus, causes stem and root rot. Symptoms include lesions on the stems and foliage near ground level and root decay.
Plants in the seedling stage and those in overly wet soil are most susceptible.
The best approach to this pathogen is to act preventatively by buying high-quality, disease-free seed. If your plants are infected, remove affected parts and sanitize garden tools.
Contact your local agricultural extension for details about which fungicides are currently recommended.
Best Uses for Sea Thrift
Sea thrift is a versatile flower naturally suited to salty coastal beds, borders, and containers.
Sea thrift interplanted with loosestrife, geranium, and aubretia.
With a three-gallon pot or larger to accommodate its long tap root, you’ll find it an excellent companion to aubretia coreopsis, geranium, and loosestrife.
Its petite stature and spreading growth habit make sea thrift ideal for edging and mass-planting as a ground cover. Sprawling companions include fleabane, gumweed, stonecrop, and sand verbena.
The showy flower heads and straight, upright stems are desirable in a cutting garden, where the plants attract beneficial bees, beetles, butterflies, flies, and moths.
And finally, A. maritima shines in rock gardens and naturalistic, low-moisture xeriscapes.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous perennial
Flower/Foliage Color:
Pink, lavender, white/green
Native to:
Coastal Britain, northern Europe, North American Pacific Coast
Tolerance:
Deer, drought, dry/poor/rocky soil, heavy metal contamination, rabbits, salt, wind
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
4-8
Maintenance:
Moderate
Bloom Time:
Spring, sporadic summer with deadheading
Soil Type:
Lean, rocky, sandy
Exposure:
Full sun to part shade
Soil pH:
4.0-10.0
Spacing:
6-12 inches
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Surface sow (seeds), same depth as original container (transplants)
Coastal beds and borders, containers, cutting gardens, edging, ground cover, mass planting, rock gardens, xeriscapes
Growth Rate:
Slow
Family:
Plumbaginaceae
Water Needs:
Low
Genus:
Armeria
Common Pests and Diseases:
Leafhoppers, slugs; leaf spot, rust, stem and root rot
Species:
Maritima
A Seasoned Seaside Beauty
Don’t be deceived by sea thrift’s quaintly bobbing blooms. Beneath their dainty appearance is a tough plant that is accustomed to battering winds, nutrient-poor soil, and sea spray.
A. maritima is a star in the home garden because it is not prone to pests or diseases, spreads non-aggressively, and is ideal for a water-wise landscape.
Avoid excess moisture, provide excellent drainage, and skip the fertilizer to enjoy years of perky springtime blooms.
Do you grow sea thrift in your outdoor living space? Please share your thoughts in the comments section below.
With big, bold leaves, put fatsia on your wish list if you’re looking for a pet-friendly houseplant or one that will tolerate low light levels.
Take one look at its emerald green leaves and you’ll want to move it to the top of the list!
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Perhaps you’ve already taken the plunge and brought a Fatsia japonica plant home.
Or maybe fatsia is on your wish list and you’re here to decide if it will tolerate the growing conditions you’re able to provide.
In this article we’ll cover all of this houseplant’s growing needs so whether you’re troubleshooting a problem or preparing to bring a specimen home, you will be ready to proceed with confidence!
Here’s what we’ll cover:
What Is Japanese Aralia?
Fatsia japonica – also known simply as fatsia – is an evergreen shrub that has a rounded, open, spreading growth habit.
Though it can reach up to 16 feet tall when grown outdoors it usually grows to around six feet tall and wide as a houseplant.
Fatsia (F. japonica) leaf.
Fatsia has glossy, emerald to dark green palmate leaves that are deeply lobed, grow to be eight inches wide or larger, and are held on long petioles.
These leaves have an odd number of lobes – usually seven, nine, or 11 lobes per leaf – though younger specimens typically have fewer and shallower lobes.
Leaf on a juvenile fatsia specimen. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
When new fatsia leaves unfurl, they are covered with small, orange-tinted hairs, so if you notice some fuzz on your houseplant’s foliage, don’t panic.
Though Japanese aralias grown as houseplants don’t often bloom, when cultivated outdoors these plants produce fragrant white blooms in fall, which attract pollinators such as wasps.
Berries on fatsia.
Flowering is followed by attractive clusters of dark blue berries, which enclose seeds that can be used to propagate new specimens.
Cultivation and History
F. japonica is native to the Korean peninsula and Japan, and is a member of the ivy family, Araliaceae, related to other stars of the houseplant world such as false aralia and umbrella tree.
Fatsias (also known as Japanese aralias) growing outdoors.
Also called fatsi, Japanese aralia, paperplant, big leaf paperplant, glossy leaf paperplant, Formosa rice tree, figleaf palm, and false castor oil plant, this species was categorized taxonomically in 1854.
However, thanks to their cold tolerance, fatsias are grown outdoors as ornamental shrubs just as frequently as they are enjoyed as houseplants.
Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
In Korea and Japan, these plants aren’t just admired for their beauty – fatsia sprouts are eaten as a delicacy.
Japanese aralias can be grown outdoors year round in USDA Hardiness Zones 7b to 10b.
Japanese Aralia Propagation
Japanese aralia houseplants can be propagated from seeds, cuttings, and transplants.
If you’re hoping to propagate a cultivar, you’ll need to do so via cuttings, since the seeds of cultivated varieties won’t grow true.
Growing new paperplants from seed is an easy and cheap option.
You’ll need to start by procuring some fatsia seeds.
Houseplants are unlikely to flower or produce seeds, but you may be able to collect seeds from a plant growing outdoors if there are any in your area – be sure to ask first!
These shrubs produce flowers in fall followed by berries in winter. The seeds inside are mature and ready to harvest when the berries are dark blue. Remove the fleshy pulp from around the seed before sowing.
And when propagating seeds, start more than you need in case germination rates are low.
You can purchase packs of 10 Japanese aralia seeds from Seedville via Amazon.
Once you have acquired your Japanese aralia seeds, there are three ways to start this houseplant from seed – germinating in moist paper towels, using propagation bags, or sowing directly into growing medium in nursery pots.
In all cases, the seeds need to stay warm and moist to germinate.
We discuss these methods in detail in our guide to propagating Japanese aralia from seed.(coming soon!)
From Cuttings
While starting Japanese aralia from seeds is easier, if you’d like to propagate a cultivar, you’ll have to do so by taking cuttings.
Use semi-ripe Japanese aralia cuttings – the base of the cutting should be woody, while the tip should be green. Late summer to mid-autumn is the best time to take cuttings in their semi-ripe stage.
Use sterilized garden snips to take cuttings to avoid spreading diseases, and take more cuttings than you need, since they may not all survive.
Take cuttings that are four to six inches long, cutting right below a node, which is the swollen place along the stem where leaves emerge.
Cuttings can be propagated either in water or in growing medium.
To propagate in water, place the cuttings in a jar of water, and situate them in a warm location with bright, indirect light. Change the water every few days. Roots should develop from these cuttings within a month.
You can pot up water-rooted cuttings when the roots are at least an inch long, following the instructions in the transplanting section below.
To root your cuttings in growing medium, take the cuttings and trim off all the leaves on each stem except the top one.
Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, such as Olivia’s Cloning Gel, available in an assortment of sizes via Arbico Organics.
When you bring a new specimen home, you might wonder if it will need to be transplanted into a new pot right away.
The answer is – it depends!
If the plant is drying out too quickly between waterings or is tipping over because the container is too small to support the mass of the plant’s growth, then yes, go ahead and transplant the specimen into a larger container.
Otherwise, leave it in the same nursery pot, or transplant it to a decorative container of the same size.
When repotting paperplant specimens that have outgrown their current containers, choose a new one that is just one size larger, and make sure it has drainage holes.
In addition to a pot, you’ll also need some growing medium. I like to use Rosy Soil for this purpose.
It’s peat-free, and contains compost, pine fines, and biochar for aeration, as well as beneficial mycorrhizal fungi.
You can pick up a four-quart bag of Rosy Soil from the Rosy Soil Store via Amazon.
Once you have your new pot and growing medium, place an inch or so of growing medium in the bottom of the new pot.
Next, unpot the Japanese aralia from its current container, then loosen up the edges of the root ball before inserting it into the new pot.
Check the top of the root ball – it should be around an inch below the rim of the new pot. If it’s too high, remove some of the soil beneath the plant – if it’s too low, add a little more.
When the plant is situated at the right level, fill in along the sides of the root ball with growing medium, making sure not to cover the crown of the plant, then water, and return the plant to its normal location.
How to Grow Japanese Aralia
Ready to learn more about the light, water, soil, and climatic needs of these gorgeous green houseplants?
When you bring a fatsia home, first check it for pests and diseases. You’ll learn more about what to look for later in the article, so keep reading!
Even if the plant looks healthy, if you have other houseplants, it’s best to quarantine a new specimen for two to four weeks in case there are any critters hiding in the soil.
As I mentioned earlier, Japanese aralias can adjust to a variety of indoor light conditions, as long as they aren’t exposed to too much direct sunlight.
Indirect bright or medium light levels are optimum for Japanese aralias, but they also put up with low light, and many houseplant enthusiasts choose these plants for their tolerance of darker conditions.
But let me tell you from experience – what seems like “low light” to the human eye may actually be too dark for Japanese aralias grown indoors.
To be sure you’re taking good care of your houseplants, there are a wide array of light meters that can help you make sure your cherished plants get the luminosity they need – and these glossy beauties need at least 75 to 200 foot candles.
Fatsias prefer indirect light. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
When growing paperplants outdoors year-round or just during the summer months, place them in shade or dappled shade.
Once you have located a spot with the perfect light conditions for your Japanese aralia, you’ll want to make sure you get the watering right too.
Keep the plant’s soil moist but not soggy, and bear in mind that they really don’t like to dry out!
In fact, fatsias will let you know when you have gone too long between waterings by wilting quite dramatically.
A thirsty fatsia, having gone too long between waterings. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
As you get to know your fatsia houseplant, keep in mind that this is a common reaction when these plants need water – and try to time your visits with the watering can so that you avoid such pitiful displays.
The same plant, on the following day, after being watered. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
Water Japanese aralias when the top of the growing medium is dry to the touch, and use a houseplant watering can with a narrow spout to make sure you water the soil evenly.
These plants will adapt to a variety of soil types as long as it’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, but they do prefer slightly acidic growing mediums with a pH range of 5.5 to 6.0.
As for temperature, a range of 60 to 80°F during summer is best, but in winter Japanese aralias prefer cooler temperatures in a range of 45 to 55°F, but shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 10°F.
You might find a good spot for a fatsia houseplant on the north side of your home – for those in the Northern Hemisphere – where the sun’s rays don’t warm the home as much.
When it comes to humidity, a level of 60 percent or higher is best.
If you’re trying to grow this houseplant in a climate that has low humidity, you can set a humidifier near the plant which can raise humidity levels in a small room from 40 percent to 60 percent in a few hours.
Growing Tips
Grow in indirect bright, medium, or low light.
Keep soil moist but not soggy.
Provide 60% relative humidity or higher.
Pruning and Maintenance
Once you have a Japanese aralia plant that outgrows its pot – either one purchased from a nursery, or propagated from seeds or cuttings – eventually you’ll need to repot it to a larger container.
It’s time to repot if the Japanese aralia specimen is drying out too quickly between waterings, roots are emerging from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot or from the surface of the growing medium, or the plant has grown so top heavy that it’s tipping over.
As noted earlier in the article, when repotting Japanese aralias, choose a pot that is just one size larger than the current container and only repot when the plant has outgrown its current container.
Make sure your chosen pot has drainage holes.
If your fatsia becomes leggy or you wish to reshape it, you can prune back one third of the plant at a time. Removing more than one third of the leaves will make it hard for the plant to recover.
When pruning, be sure to sterilize scissors or garden snips with hydrogen peroxide in between different specimens to reduce the risk of disease spread.
As for fertilizer, you can offer your fatsia worm compost from your vermicompost bin, or provide a gentle, balanced fertilizer once a week during the growing season, such as Dr. Earth’s Pump and Grow Indoor Houseplant Food.
Ready to welcome one of these into your home? You’ll find two-foot tall specimens in one-gallon pots available from 9EzTropical via Amazon.
Here are some common cultivars you may find at your local nursery or online:
Annelise
‘Annelise’ has impressionistic, marbled patterns that might remind you of the prayer plant cultivar ‘Fusion White.’
The foliage of this cultivar displays inner variegation – the center of the leaf is light green, and then darkens towards the leaf margins.
Annemieke
‘Annemieke’ (x Fatshedera lizei ) is an intergeneric hybrid – a cross between F. japonica ‘Moseri’ and Hedera helix, better known as English ivy.
x Fatshedera lizei ‘Annemieke’
This hybrid, also called “tree ivy” or “bush ivy,” has five-lobed leaves with the beautiful veining of ivy.
The cultivar ‘Annemieke’ has beautiful yellow variegation on the leaves, and can be cultivated as either a vine or a shrub, with regular pruning to encourage bushier growth.
Of note for those interested in fatsia as a nontoxic houseplant – this intergeneric hybrid likely loses that property, since English ivy is toxic to humans and pets.
Spider’s Web
‘Spider’s Web’ is an F. japonicacultivar that has speckled white variegation at the margins of the leaves, which transitions to green at the centers. Some leaves may be entirely white.
If you’d like to buy one for a houseplant, you can find a ‘Spider’s Web’ fatsia in a 10-inch grower’s pot from the National Plant Network via Walmart.
Managing Pests and Disease
Fatsia is prone to the same pests and diseases which commonly plague houseplants.
As mentioned above, you’ll definitely want to check any new specimen you bring into your home and quarantine it from other houseplants for two to four weeks, if possible.
After that, check for pests underneath the leaves whenever you water your Japanese aralia, and give it a thorough inspection before bringing your plant indoors after it has spent the summer outside.
Keep an eye out for aphids, mealybugs, and scale, all of which are sap-sucking insects that will suck nutrients from these plants, weakening them to the point of death if left unchecked.
Personally, I’ve had the biggest issue with scale on newly arrived Japanese aralia specimens.
Check under leaves, along leaf veins, and on stems for these well-camouflaged insects – they sometimes look like little bumps or imperfections and may be black, gray, brown, green, or white.
Scale insects on underside of fatsia leaf. Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.
If scale is an issue for your Japanese aralia plant, you may notice leaves that appear deformed, or showing discolored spots.
These insects may leave oily looking liquid on the houseplant’s foliage – this is known as honeydew, and its presence can encourage fungal growth, giving you a two-for-one plant catastrophe!
Luckily, it ispossible to rid these houseplants of scale, aphid, or mealybug infestations. My treatment of choice is neem oil, which is nontoxic to humans, dogs, and cats.
When it comes to diseases, the problem you are most likely to experience with this plant is root rot – a malady which can be avoided with proper plant care.
If your plant is wilting, yet its growing medium is damp, it’s highly likely that root rot is the problem.
When it comes to root rot, prevention is key!
Make sure your Japanese aralia is planted in a well-draining growing medium, a pot with drainage holes, and keep the growing medium moist but not soggy.
In addition to serving as a large green foliage plant in your home, Japanese aralia is excellent for interiorscaping thanks to its tolerance for low light conditions.
Paperplants are also safe for households with pets or small children.
But based on my experience, this is certainly not one of those houseplants your cat will leave alone.
My cats are particularly drawn to my Japanese aralias and are intent on mauling them, so if you have felines, you too might need to keep these out of their reach by placing them in hanging plantersor wall planters.
I’m assuming my cats love to chew on this plant so much because of its tasty foliage.
While I haven’t tried sampling it myself, as mentioned above, fatsia is edible and the young sprouts are considered a delicacy in Japan and Korea.
Fatsia shoots prepared as Korean style pickles.
And as a reminder for those of you in warmer zones, fatsias can be planted outdoors in shady areas in USDA Hardiness Zones 7b to 10b.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Evergreen shrub
Flower/Foliage Color:
White/emerald green, variegated green and white, variegated green and yellow
Native to:
Japan, Korea
Water Needs:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
7b-10b
Maintenance:
Low
Bloom Time/Season:
Fall
Tolerance:
Cool conditions, humidity, low light
Exposure:
Bright, medium, or low indirect light (indoors), dappled shade to full shade (outdoors)
Soil Type:
All-purpose houseplant growing medium
Time to Maturity:
3-5 years
Soil pH:
5.5-6.0
Planting Depth:
1/8-1/4 inch (seeds), top of root ball (transplants)
Big and bold, fatsia won’t fade into the background and hide – and now you are equipped with the care knowledge you need to keep your Japanese aralia looking beautiful in the foreground.
Now it’s your turn to show off photos of your own Japanese aralias – just use the comments section below! And if you still have any unanswered questions about caring for fatsias, feel free to drop them there as well.
Carpet underlay plays an important role in enhancing the comfort, durability, and longevity of your carpet flooring.
A representative from Simply Underlay explained that “choosing the right underlay not only improves the feel of your carpet but also helps reduce noise, increase energy efficiency, and provide extra cushioning underfoot.”
Different underlays are available in the market, allowing you to make an informed decision that best suits your needs and preferences.
What makes underlay for carpets important
Investing in quality underlay for your carpet offers various benefits that positively impact the performance and lifespan of your flooring. Here’s why underlay is essential:
Noise reduction: Underlay acts as a sound insulator, reducing impact noise and minimising sound transmission between floors.
Comfort: A good underlay provides additional cushioning underfoot, enhancing the comfort level of your carpeted areas.
Thermal insulation: Underlay helps retain heat, making your space more energy-efficient and comfortable.
Durability: By absorbing the impact of foot traffic, underlay protects your carpet from wear and tear, extending its lifespan.
Flatness: Quality underlay helps maintain the appearance of your carpet by preventing it from rippling or wrinkling.
Different types of carpet underlay
Several types of underlays are available, each with unique features and benefits. Understanding the characteristics of different underlay materials can help you choose the most suitable option for your carpeted areas.
Foam underlay
Features: Lightweight, affordable, good thermal and sound insulation properties.
Ideal For: Bedrooms, living rooms, areas with moderate foot traffic.
Ideal For: Stairs, high-traffic areas, and rooms requiring extra cushioning.
Felt underlay
Features: Natural, dense, provides excellent heat and sound insulation.
Ideal For: Rooms where noise reduction and heat retention are priorities.
Crumb rubber underlay
Features: Made from recycled materials, it is an eco-friendly option and offers superb support and cushioning.
Ideal for: Sustainability-conscious consumers, rooms with heavy furniture.
How to choose the right underlay for carpets
Selecting the appropriate underlay for your carpet depends on various factors, such as the type of carpet, the room’s purpose, and your preferences. Here are some considerations to keep in mind:
Carpet type: Some carpets require specific types of underlay to maintain their performance.
Room usage: High-traffic areas may benefit from thicker underlay for added durability.
Subfloor: Consider the subfloor material to ensure compatibility with the chosen underlay.
Budget: Determine your budget and look for underlays that offer the best value for money.
Installation and maintenance tips
Proper installation and maintenance of your carpet underlay are essential for maximising its effectiveness and prolonging the lifespan of your carpet.
Simply Underlay provided the following tips to consider before installing your underlay, and how you can maintain your newly installed underlay:
Professional installation: Consider hiring a professional to install the underlay for optimal results.
Regular cleaning: Vacuum regularly to remove dirt and debris affecting performance.
Avoid moisture: Prevent water damage by promptly addressing leaks or spills to protect the underlay.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which underlay is best for reducing noise in a busy room?
The best underlay for reducing noise in a busy room is a dense rubber or foam underlay designed specifically for sound insulation. These materials absorb sound, minimising noise transfer between floors.
How can underlay increase the comfort of my carpeted area?
Underlay can significantly increase the comfort of a carpeted area by providing additional cushioning underfoot. It adds softness to the carpet, making walking, sitting, and playing on the floor more comfortable.
Is it necessary to buy new underlay with every carpet installation?
While not always necessary, buying new underlay with every carpet installation is recommended. Old underlay can wear out, compromising your new carpet’s comfort, insulation, and appearance.
What are the benefits of underlay for laminate flooring?
For laminate flooring, underlay offers benefits like noise reduction, moisture protection, and a smoother surface for the laminate planks to lie on, which can extend the life of your flooring.
Can underlay help in reducing energy costs by insulating the floor?
Yes, underlay can help reduce energy costs by insulating the floor. Materials like foam or rubber underlay have insulating properties that keep rooms warmer in winter and cooler in summer, potentially lowering heating and cooling expenses.
What’s not to love about salvaged finds? Using reclaimed wood, a castoff kitchen sink, vintage lighting, or old moldings in your project may not only save money but add one-of-a-kind charm. Remodelista does a deep dive this week on designers that specialize in reimagining the old. Plus: Editors’ Picks: 10 Essential Kitchen Tools 10 Easy […]
WHEN SHOPPING the seed catalogs, I realize I’m probably more likely to consider a tomato or pepper I haven’t grown before, or some unusual annual flower, than to try some new-to-me herb. But what a shame. I need to modify that behavior and spice things up a bit.
I need to move beyond what today’s guest, Hudson Valley Seed Company’s co-founder K Greene, calls “the must-have,” more standard types of herbs. And give some garden space to ones he labels the “try these, too” kinds.
K Greene is co-founder with Doug Muller of Hudson Valley Seed in Accord, New York. With their team on their certified organic farm there, they produce much of the seed they sell. Their catalog is a mix of vegetables, flowers, and herbs—our topic today. All of them open-pollinated, and include many heirlooms. (Above, Klip Dagga, a tropical mint relative from Africa and India.)
Plus: Enter to win a $25 gift card for Hudson Valley Seeds by commenting in the box near the bottom of the page.
Read along as you listen to the Feb. 26, 2024 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
try some new herbs from seed, with k greene
Margaret Roach: It’s good to talk to you again, K, and I don’t think we’ve talked about herbs specifically in all the years that we’ve known each other [laughter].
K Greene: I don’t think we have, but to be here to talk about something new.
Margaret: So you labeled them “the must-haves” and “try these, too.” What are a couple must-haves for you? I’ve got to have parsley, I know that.
K: Yeah, I think parsley is a must-have. And particularly the ‘Gigante d’Italia,’ the flat-leaf.
Margaret: Oh, me, too. That’s my parsley. Yeah, yeah.
K: That’s the one. And one thing about parsley that is a question we get sometimes: I don’t think folks realize that it takes longer for those seeds to germinate than other seeds. And so there can be a little bit of impatience [laughter] of, “My windowsill, what’s wrong with the seeds? Why isn’t this happening?” They take a little bit longer, but it’s totally worth the extra wait.
Margaret: Yeah, I usually start those closer to when I start my onions—not as early—than to when I start say, my peppers or tomatoes. Do you know what I mean? It’s in the middle there somewhere, longer than my quicker things. So yeah, I give them a couple of extra weeks. You have some interesting ones? You have one that I have never heard of. I don’t even know how you say it. ‘Menuette’ [below] or something?
K: ‘Menuette.’ Yeah. It’s somewhere between a green and an herb I would say. But you’ll see it mixed more in like a salad mix.
Margaret: Mm-hmm. I think it says in the catalog the texture’s like confetti, the leaflets are more fine or something. Yeah, it’s really interesting looking.
K: We try to add things that are both things that people are really looking for. But as I’ve learned more about herbs, because I’m not a culinary expert, that’s not my bent, but we hear from people who are cooks and they’re looking for more specific herbs than I would be familiar with.
And for me, actually, one of them—and maybe this is silly [laughter], but the difference between oregano and marjoram always eluded me. But people are very specific about it in terms of dishes and cooking.
And so a couple years ago we did one of our art packs for marjoram to really educate ourselves, but also hopefully share with people who were like me, who were like, “What’s the difference?” [laughter] to really start to understand that there’s a different flavor profile for each of those.
Margaret: Yes. Well, the ‘Menuette’ parsley, it looks a little shaggy almost. It actually looks like it would be easier to chop and like as you say sort of tear and throw into a salad. And you wouldn’t get all those kind of flat leaves that were just stuck to other things maybe.
K: And it’s like a mouth-feel thing. And with herbs, I think about all of the senses really, when I think about herbs: that they’re beautiful and ornamental. There’s the flavorful culinary quality. There’s a fragrant aromatic-ness to your garden when you’re growing herbs. And then for culinary folks, especially the fresh-eating herbs, there’s this mouth-feel that is so important. And when you’re putting together a salad mix, you want to have those different textures in there, as well as the colors and the shapes and the flavors. But the texture is important, too.
Margaret: Yeah. And some herbs out in the garden are pollinator magnets. A lot of them actually are in the mint family, and that’s always a popular family with insects, pollinators. And other ones, some of them are composites, daisy-shaped flowers like feverfew, I’m thinking of, for instance. And those are real magnets for insects as well. Some are medicinal, some are used for crafting—all kinds of different things.
K: Yeah. For pollinators, I love having both chives and garlic chives. They bloom at different times, they’re very different-looking blooms. The chives have that beautiful purple tuft to them. And then the garlic chives has that globe that has those beautiful five-pointed-star white flowers, and you always see pollinators around them, and they’re perennial.
So when I am thinking about designing an herb garden, I always start with, “Which are the perennial herbs?” Those are my anchor plants. And I know they’re going to spread and they’re going to come back. And then I think about where I’m going to put my annuals in between those anchoring perennials. And it’s almost like having a miniature cottage garden kind of feel where you have lower mounding and higher and spiky and things blooming at different times. It’s a great way to miniaturize garden design in a manageable way [laughter]. And also, then not worry so much about the deer as well, because the deer don’t like a lot of the herbs that we like.
Margaret: Yeah. No, I have an edge in one area, an edge of garlic chives and it’s just great. I don’t know if it’s high summer or a little later even, I’m not sure; I can’t quite picture at the moment what the timing is. But speaking of abuzz, it is just unbelievable the number of species of insects that are interested in those flowers.
So yeah, there’s lots of other… So we could talk again in any of those directions: perennial, annual, culinary, medicinal, whatever. You have a number of different perillas or shisos.
And that’s one that I always used to grow. I used to grow the purple one that I think they use it in vinegar, rice vinegar, to tint the sliced ginger in Japanese restaurants and so forth. It gives that pink tinge. But you have a couple of different ones; you have a green one also [‘Ao’ shiso, below].
K: Yes. It’s so delicious. They grow so well here. It’s a little controversial [laughter] because we do get people who say that it’s an invasive, or that it will take over. And it’s not technically an invasive in the Northeast. There are a couple states where it is. And so we don’t ship to those states, but it is opportunistic. But it’s super-easy to get rid of if it’s self-seeded in your yard. It’s not a problem plant for us at all. And the flavor is amazing. And I have never found an insect that messes with it. I talk about an ornamental edible. It is just beautiful the whole season.
Margaret: Yeah. And I see that you recommend in the catalog that it can be used—and you say this about a number of things, dill for instance—that it can be used as microgreens, that you can sow the seeds as microgreens. So do you guys do that? That’s interesting.
K: We do. We just added microgreen kits recently, and we’ve been creating larger pack sizes for microgreens because you do so much succession sowing with the microgreens. But for me, the microgreens really are about flavor. Sometimes I want something really spicy with the microgreens to put on top, but the herbs, they have their flavor at that microgreen stage. So you’re doing basil, like cinnamon basil or lemon basil or ‘Genovese’ basil; it’s going to have that cinnamon or lemon or ‘Genovese’ flavor to it, which is just so easy to add to a sandwich. Parsley actually is great, too, but again, you have to be a little patient. Chervil. Do you like chervil?
Margaret: Yeah. Mm-hmm.
K: Yeah. I love chervil. That’s another one that at a microgreen stage has this slight anise flavor. And then at its mature stage, has that same mouth feel like the parsley that we were talking about, like the crinkly texture to it.
Margaret: Well, so you mentioned basils and you’ve got plenty of basils, and that’s one place where we could… As gardeners, we may each do the ‘Genovese,’ the classic Italian basil. But there’s other directions to go. And some of them are used for different things. So do you have particular favorites or-
K: I love the cinnamon basil.
Margaret: Oh!
K: I don’t know if I would’ve named it cinnamon basil myself. But it does have a quality that would remind you of cinnamon or allspice, that it’s an undercurrent of the flavor. It’s not overpowering. So I love that. But related to basil in a distant way is the sacred basil. Have you grown the Kapoor sacred basil that we have?
Margaret: Yeah, I think some people say holy basil, right?
K: Yeah. I sometimes grow it just for the aroma in the garden. It is so fragrant, you can smell it from 15 feet away as you walk through. So I really love that one.
A herb that is a flower that I grow that’s in the mint family called Klip Dagga is probably my best all-time favorite herb/flower of the year last year. And I am going to grow it forever and ever and ever [laughter]. I love it so much. And the hummingbirds love it. And it’s just spectacular.
Margaret: And that’s an oddball. So it’s a Leonotis technically. And there’s also a perennial Leonotis, Leonotis leonurus, but this is Leonotis nepetifolia. And again, is another thing that’s in the mint family, but it can get really tall. Each little flower on these crazy balls that are up the stem, every so often up the stem, it looks like something from outer space to me with these crazy flowers coming out of it. It can get taller than 6 feet, surely.
K: Oh, yeah. No, when I grow them, they’re around 10 feet.
Margaret: That’s crazy.
K: And they have those whorls, I don’t know how to say it.
Margaret: Whorls. Yeah.
K: Yeah. Don’t think you’re supposed to say the H, but I do, because I don’t want people to think that I’m whirling. The whorl grows all the way around the square stem, and then it looks like a lion’s mane around the stem from the orange flowers.
Margaret: And they’re like little tubular flowers, like something in the mint family. Again, it looks like outer space to me. It’s like these space stations going all the way up this giant, 10-foot pole [laughter].
K: I grow them right in front of our big picture window because the hummingbirds love them so much, and it’s a living hummingbird feeder. So the hummingbirds come up and they’re less than a foot away from our window, and they go in a circle right around the flower, around the whole stem, hovering like that, and I can just sit there and watch them up close. I love it.
Margaret: So this is a plant that comes originally from parts of Africa, and India, and so we grow it as an annual. You said it’s called Klip Dagga [detail above], but it’s again, Leonotis, technically. Even though it’s tropical, it’s a fast-growing annual for us. It’s fascinating. I think in the catalog you say it’s Dr. Seuss-ish, and it is.
K: Yeah. And a good companion for that. If you want to go really Seussian, is the Spilanthes.
Margaret: Oh.
K: So that’s low-growing, and it has those button type flowers. They almost look like the center of a Coreopsis or of an Echinacea without the petals. And they’re yellow, and it’s low-mounding, and it does have medicinal properties as well. It is grown as a medicinal herb, but just for me, the look of those two together just really tickles me.
Margaret: Is that the one we called toothache plant or something like that?
K: Yeah.
Margaret:Spilanthes[above]. I think one of the traditional uses was to numb the gum or who knows what, but at any rate. Yeah, Spilanthes: the toothache plant. So that’d be a crazy combination. You’re right.
K: Yeah. Great.
Margaret: All right. Cool. You have another perennial that I’ve probably had for at least 25 years, if not longer—speaking of being a real perennial—is lovage. And you say in the catalog “this will be your new favorite herb.” And I can’t believe that it’s not in every garden, because-
K: Why isn’t it so popular?
Margaret: It’s unbelievable. To say this tastes like celery is not doing it full justice, but that’s the closest flavor I know that it tastes like.
K: It’s rich. It’s just so rich. And just a little bit of that in soup stock. It changes your whole soup, period. And it’s perennial and it’s so pretty. It’s an elegant, elegant plant to grow.
Margaret: And it looks a little bit like celery, not the stalks in the same way, not as thick or anything, but do you know what I mean? The leaves. Anyway, it’s lovely. It doesn’t ask anything of you. It comes up every year, but lovage—I just can’t imagine why people don’t want it. Even though it’s a perennial, it can be grown from seed. Yes?
K: Mm-hmm. Yeah, absolutely. And you’re reminding me also another one that some folks don’t realize you can grow from seed that’s perennial, that’s beautiful, is lavender, and we offer them ‘Munstead.’ We’re celebrating that one this year, which is associated with Gertrude Jekyll and her homestead. But it’s important to realize with lavender, I think part of the reason people don’t think about growing it from seed is it does have inconsistent germination. So unlike a lot of our seeds where we’re trying to offer things that have 90 percent germination rate. With your lavender, you’re going to get about 50 percent of the ones in the pack germinating. And that’s not a problem with the seed lot. That’s just how it behaves.
Margaret: That’s right.
K: It behaves that way. But once you get it going, you’re going to have it forever. It’s going to spread…and talk about aromatic. And last year, anytime I needed a gift for anyone, I just went out and cut lavender, and made little bundles to dry. And it was just like a lovely way to celebrate the garden, and to share that with someone who maybe isn’t a gardener, but wants to have something from the garden in their life that they can enjoy.
Margaret: Sweet. A little tussie-mussie of dried lavender. That’s sweet. Yeah, that’s very sweet. I hadn’t thought about that.
Again, similar to the fact that you have that unusual parsley: In the cilantro world, you have… One of the things about cilantro for people who like it—and I know it’s a love-hate thing for a lot of people, ’cause it is an oddball taste—but one thing about it is even if you love it, it’s not going to last. You really need to almost sow it like every 10 days or two weeks, a small amount every 10 days or two weeks, so you keep having the leaves. Otherwise, it’s going to bolt. But you have a suggestion about that. Yes?
K: Yeah. Well, it’s an interesting one because sometimes we get used to the common name of something and it’s easy to be cilantro with cilantro, but there’s many varieties of cilantro, and the different varieties have different qualities. And so the ‘Caribe’ that we added to the catalog is more heat-tolerant. So instead of bolting so fast, which the common cilantro does, you’re going to are getting a longer period of time of harvesting it, so you don’t have to do as frequent sowing because you get a little bit more time.
It’s great to actually use both. So in the cool season, you can start with the common cilantro. When you’re starting to approach the warmer season switch to the ‘Caribe,’ and use that for the summer. And then you can switch back to the other cilantro. But the other thing that I love about cilantro and bolting is that when it goes to seed, it’s coriander.
Margaret: I know. And we forget that. We get frustrated because we went out to get some cilantro to chop over the burritos or whatever [laughter] and or put in the salsa and it wasn’t there. But we forget if we just left the plants, they would provide something new.
K: And you get to be a seed-saver. So letting it bolt and collecting the seeds means you have seeds for the next year, and you have spice for your spice drawer. The other thing I would just say is there is a real qualitative difference between “fresh” coriander seed and what you’re buying in the store, which is much older. Those have been around longer. You can just tell. It’s just like the way we think about tomatoes. There’s a big difference between the tomato on a shelf in the grocery store and the one that you went out back in your yard and picked. Even if it’s the same variety, there’s going to be a different flavor quality. So I think that’s true of the coriander as well.
Margaret: There’s so many possibilities. You have so many great things, interesting things. One that I think I knew about it, and I haven’t thought about it in a long time, but you have this ‘Mexican Mint’ marigold, which is a marigold [Tagetes lucida] that tastes like tarragon [above]. Yes?
K: Depends on who you talk to, Margaret.
Margaret: [Laughter.]
K: Some people would be really offended if you said it tastes like tarragon. I think it has qualities of tarragon. The reason I think some people lean into the tarragon nature of it is because you can’t start true tarragon from seed; you have to get the plants. And so this is something that you can sow, that you can grow and harvest that has some of the same culinary properties. So I’d be careful who you tell [laughter] that it tastes just like tarragon. Let’s say tarragon with a little bit of anise.
Margaret: Hints of tarragon and anise. How about that: Hints? [Laughter.]
K: Just to say, “Hey, it’s not the same thing, but you can pretend.”
Margaret: Yeah. And then was one that really surprised me, that’s a perennial actually. You have watercress, which is a nasturtium, a perennial species of nasturtium. And you even say that we can grow it in containers, which that just sounds like fabulous to me, to have some watercress that I could spice up a salad or whatever, if I have pots of it.
K: If you have running water somewhere, cold, cool, running water somewhere, you can establish it, and have it forever. But if you don’t, you can grow it in a container. You want to refresh the water periodically; it’s not like you’re just going to leave it sitting, especially when it gets hot. It doesn’t want to be that hot. So refreshing that with cool water is good.
But part of the reason that I wanted to add it is there’s research that shows that this is one of the oldest plant-human relationships. We can look thousands and thousands maybe 10,000 years back, in terms of the relationships that people have had with plants and how we are interdependent. We depend on each other. And so watercress is one of those really ancient relationships. And the artwork that we commissioned for it was all about telling that story of how long we have been in love with watercress as humans, and still today. And that’s one of the reasons I wanted to add it, plus the flavor.
Margaret: And you just said artwork, and one of the things that Hudson Valley Seed is known for is its art packs. You can buy some of the seeds in these beautiful packs with just pieces of artwork on them and just very, very special. And that’s just been a signature of the company since the start, I think. So we didn’t even get to calendulas. Oh, so many other things.
Margaret: I know. And we could make salve, but we’ve run out of time, of course.
K: I’m sorry. I can talk about plants forever with you.
Margaret: Yeah, well, it’s addictive. I know both of us. But I do appreciate you making the time. I hope I’ll talk to you again soon. In the meantime, I’m ordering some herbs, ASAP [laughter].
K: It was great to chat again.
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MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Feb. 26, 2024 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
Arguably the crown jewel of the Cornus genus, the flowering dogwood (C. florida) offers plenty of beauty in standard species mode, no cultivars required.
But for even more ornamental options, why not check out some cultivated C. florida varieties?
With over a hundred cultivars of flowering dogwood available in various sizes, forms, and colors, a gardener has quite the choice to make.
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Add assorted growth rates, bloom times, and disease resistance to the mix, and that choice becomes even harder.
To help you on this journey, you’ll need a guide. Not necessarily an old, wizened, and sage guide like Gandalf or Yoda, though. I’ll have to do, at least to start.
With this guide to 13 of the best flowering dogwood cultivars, we’ll be separating the wheat from the chaff, the cream from the non-creamy crop, the extraordinary from the extra ordinary.
At least, it reveals what I consider to be the 13 best. Everyone’s entitled to their opinion, right?
Here’s the lineup:
Before we begin, it’s important to know the sort of tree you want, along with where you intend on planting it.
Also, I’ll be using the terms bloom/flower and bract pretty much interchangeably.
Even though they’re modified leaves rather than true flower petals, the leaf bracts of flowering dogwoods pretty much function as flowers, at least ornamentally.
Okay, time to talk trees! And shrubs, if we’re being technical.
1. Appalachian Spring
Since cultivars are either intentionally bred or accidentally discovered, they often have epic, superhero-esque origin stories. ‘Appalachian Spring’ is a perfect example.
In the 1970s, Discula destructiva – aka Discula or dogwood anthracnose – was discovered in the US after arriving from origins unknown.
Infecting and severely reducing native Cornus populations, this deadly disease was well on its way to dooming American dogwoods.
Photo credit: JC Raulston Arboretum at NC State University.
But all was not lost. In 1990, a certain C. florida specimen was found growing wild at Camp David on Catoctin Mountain in Maryland by the University of Tennessee’s Mark Windham.
Wielding a moderate to strong resistance to the D. destructiva fungus, this tree was used in the University’s dogwood breeding program to yield ‘Appalachian Spring’ – a fast-growing, white-bracted cultivar with larger-than-standard fruits, an upright habit, a height and spread of 20 to 30 feet, and an exceptionally strong resistance to Discula anthracnose.
If you’re looking for a heroically tough dogwood, ‘Appalachian Spring’ is the variety for you.
2. Cherokee Chief
A standard flowering dogwood has white flower bracts, each with a red notch at its apex.
‘Cherokee Chief’ offers a delightful inversion of this, with ruby-red flower bracts that are notched with white. These bracts are also white where their bases meet the true flowers, which draws the eye.
Discovered and introduced into the trade by Issac J. Hawkersmith of Winchester, Tennessee, ‘Cherokee Chief’ has a height and spread of 15 to 30 feet, as well as reddish growth on new leaves.
It’s also worth noting that this tree’s redness is really, really rich, making it a very popular red-bracted variety, if not the most popular. It truly is the chief.
A white-flowering variety from Commercial Nursery in Decherd, Tennessee, Cherokee Daybreak™ (aka ‘Daybreak’) features olive green leaves, each with yellowish-white variegation that both holds its color and fails to scorch easily in hot conditions, which is quite impressive for a variegated plant.
Additionally, this tree boasts fantastic resistance to anthracnose – another impressive feat for foliage with variegation.
It has a vigorous growth rate and an upright habit that reaches mature heights and widths of 15 to 20 feet.
Come autumn, the leaf variegation becomes pinkish, while the greener parts of the foliage turn an impressive red.
4. Cherokee Princess
Another white-flowering variety, ‘Cherokee Princess’ is simply better than the standard. End of story.
Reaching mature heights and spreads of 20 feet, this cultivar has resistance against spot anthracnose and canker – two conditions that can really mess up a dogwood.
Additionally, it begins its bud break in early spring, even earlier than a regular flowering dogwood does.
Aesthetically, this tree boasts heavier flowering and larger-than-normal blooms that reach five inches in diameter.
This, in combination with the profuse blooming, makes for a brilliant, almost blindingly white canopy in springtime.
A consistent leader in Cornus cultivar evaluations, ‘Cherokee Princess’ certainly deserves its royalty.
To add ‘Cherokee Princess’ to your collection of Cornus crown jewels, you can buy one in a #3 container at Nature Hills Nursery.
5. Cherokee Sunset
The final “Cherokee” cultivar on our list goes by Cherokee Sunset™… how fitting.
Another introduction from Commercial Nursery, Cherokee Sunset™ is essentially the red-bracted version of Cherokee Daybreak™.
Reaching heights and spreads of 25 feet, this one also features resistance against anthracnose, as well as a vigorous growth rate.
The leaves of this variety exhibit pinkish-red new growth before maturing to green with yellow-variegated margins, which have a similar resistance to scorching. In fall, the leaves turn pink to red to purple.
Don’t get me wrong, Cherokee Sunset™ truly stands out on its own. But with a Cherokee Sunset™ to go along with your Cherokee Daybreak™, you’ll have a one-two punch of vibrant variegation and beautiful blooms.
6. Cloud 9
With densely-growing white bracts, ‘Cloud 9’ – sometimes listed as ‘Cloud Nine’ – will put a bloom lover on cloud nine, without a doubt.
Patented in 1961 by Chase Nursery in Chase, Alabama, ‘Cloud 9’ grows 15 to 20 feet tall and wide.
The aforementioned leaf bracts grow so densely that they overlap with each other, and a slow growth rate makes the plant easier to care for in sub-par conditions.
Not all cultivar names are these super creative, imagery-stuffed titles that sound beautiful, yet provide no helpful descriptors. Some of them will just shoot straight with you. Take ‘Compacta,’ for instance.
Reaching an itty-bitty mature size of four feet in height and width in eight to 10 years, the white-flowering ‘Compacta’ takes its sweet time to reach a compact size.
Its small frame makes it perfect for fitting into tight spots where other dogwoods may not fit.
If you’re the type of plant parent that thinks they grow up so fast – too fast – then raising ‘Compacta’ is the perfect match for your nurturing parenting style.
8. Plena
Technically, Plena, aka Alba Plena or “Pluribracteata,” is less of a specific cultivar, and more of a catch-all term for all the white flowering dogwoods with double to semi-double blooms. Yes, you read that right.
Photo credit: JC Raulston Arboretum at NC State University.
Reaching heights and spreads of 20 feet, Plena specimens exhibit up to eight bracts per flower, making each bloom look kinda rose-like.
And if that wasn’t enough, they also exhibit resistance to spot anthracnose. Good thing, too – otherwise, there’d be double the bracts for the disease to muck up.
Unfortunately, Plena specimens are fruitless. Or I suppose it’s fortunate, if you don’t want a bunch of woodland critters flocking to the drupes.
Creatures as large as deer and black bears may find the fruits tasty, so I wouldn’t blame you if this is a feature you opt for.
9. Red Pygmy
Need a small flowering dogwood with red bracts, rather than white ones? Red Pygmy®, aka ‘Rutnut’ is your shrub.
Reaching a small height of five to seven feet with a thin girth of two to five feet at maturity, this C. florida cultivar flaunts prominent rose-red flower bracts, each with white notches at their apex.
Similarly to ‘Compacta,’ Red Pygmy® can take up to a decade to reach full size.
Short, skinny, and splendid: that’s Red Pygmy® in a nutshell. It’s available at Nature Hills Nursery.
10. Spring Grove
Selected as a seedling from a cemetery in Spring Grove, Cincinnati, ‘Spring Grove’ is unique in that its branches produce two to three terminal buds, rather than just one.
Photo by David Ohmer, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
As a result, this cultivar yields a ton of blooms and fruits. The white flowers are also quite large, reaching ‘Cherokee Princess’ sizes of about five inches in diameter.
With a mature height and spread of 20 to 30 feet and beautiful, reddish-purple foliage in fall, ‘Spring Grove’ brings the aesthetics even when the fruits and flowers aren’t around.
11. Stellar
Back in the late 20th century, when dogwood anthracnose and dogwood borers were becoming significant problems, many smart horticulturalists worked tirelessly to find solutions.
The result? Specimens like those from the Stellar series.
Developed by Elvin R. Orton, Jr. in the 1970s and released by Rutgers University in the 1990s, the Stellar series of hybrid flowering dogwoods – aka Cornus x rutgersensis – were created by crossing the ornamentally awesome C. florida with the disease-tolerant C. kousa.
This breeding yielded a handful of various sterile cultivars, all with a strong resistance to dogwood anthracnose, dogwood borers, and powdery mildew.
Constellation®, aka ‘Rutcan,’ has white bracts, an upright form, and a vigorous growth rate.
With Skittles, you can practically taste the rainbow. And with ‘Welchii,’ you can practically see it.
A white-bracted cultivar, ‘Welchii’ wields green leaves with white and pink variegation, and said foliage turns rosy red to reddish-purple in fall.
Add a yellow sun and a blue sky to the scene, and presto, you’ve got ROY G. BIV!
Photo credit: JC Raulston Arboretum at NC State University.
Selected by Mark Welch in the 1920s and introduced by Cole Nursery in Ohio around 1930, this tree grows 20 to 30 feet in both height and width.
And while its variegation is top-notch, it unfortunately lacks the scorch resistance of the other variegated cultivars on our list. Remember that ‘Welchii’ definitely appreciates some shade.
13. Xanthocarpa
The final entry on our list, ‘Xanthocarpa’ carves out greatness in an area untouched by the other varieties: fruit color.
Photo credit: JC Raulston Arboretum at NC State University.
Measuring 15 to 20 feet tall and wide at maturity, ‘Xanthocarpa’ has yellow fruits, rather than the typical red ones.
This yellowness also extends to the foliage, which is tinged with a pretty yellow-green before turning a gorgeous reddish-purple in fall. The flowers are white.
In Ancient Greek mythology, golden apples had power. And in the landscape, yellow Cornus fruits wield a similar might, at least aesthetically.
It’s a Dogwood Smorgasbord!
Symbolically, anyway – you wouldn’t want to eat these plants. But hey, at least they look good!
These 13 types of flowering dogwoods, while undeniably awesome, are just the beginning.
Have fun with these, and I wish you luck in searching for varieties beyond what I’ve shared on this list, if that’s what you’d like to do! It’s hard to find a bad one, that’s for sure.
Still have questions? Did I leave out any cultivars that deserved a spot in the top 13? Visit the comments section below!
If you go online to search for a book on vegetable gardening, you’ll discover there are literally thousands of titles on the topic. One new standout in the category is The Climate Change–Resilient Vegetable Garden: How to Grow Food in a Changing Climate by Kim Stoddart (available on February 27). Stoddart’s book covers everything a gardener needs to know about growing produce in a time of uncertain climate, including how to capture rainwater, breed and propagate resilient plants, control pests naturally, and even how to handle extreme conditions like wildfire and flooding.
When asked the climate and gardening journalist why she published this book now, Stoddart says, “I’ve been writing and teaching about this topic for more than a decade, but what I have realized in recent years is how important it is to build resilience in the individual, as much as the garden itself,” Stoddart says. “We are living through such stressful times. It is no longer gardening as usual with the challenges of our changing, more extreme weather.” So, in addition to the practical how-to advice, Stoddart says, “I offer hope and an upbeat approach to help gardeners cope with it all.”
We interviewed Stoddart to find out more about what climate-resilient vegetable gardening looks like, and how you can get started. Here’s her advice:
Photography courtesy of The Climate Change-Resilient Vegetable Garden.
1. Focus on the soil.
Above: Natural hedging, trees, and shrubs slow the flow of water (and therefore mitigate flood risks) into Kim Stoddart’s vegetable patch. They also provide a wind-break.
Stoddart says if she had to choose one thing for every vegetable gardener to do to increase resilience, it would be to focus on soil health. “In an organic gardening system, soil health comes first, making the soil the most resilient it can be. Going no-till is a huge step to help maintain soil structures and the life within it. It will also help keep carbon in the ground and may also help increase the nutritional content of the food you grow (there is research currently being done in this area).” Then, of course, mulch and compost to feed and improve soil.
2. Don’t coddle your plants.
“Veggies that are over-pampered can become lazy and develop shallow root structures, becoming reliant on the gardener and less resilient, as a result,” cautions Stoddart. By spreading out the time between watering and skipping chemical fertilizers, Stoddart says, “Plants can be encouraged to root deeper, thereby tapping into the mycorrhizal fungi that can help them take up water and food.”
3. Think before your spend.
Above: Stoddart’s book includes a rainwater harvesting guide with tips for all size properties and budgets.
“Gardening has become so synonymous with spending, but less can be so much more,” says Stoddart, who wants gardeners to spend less time focussed on acquiring the perfect gadgets or tools. “I gardened for free for a few years and it made me realize how valuable natural resilience and homemade or free materials are,” she says. (N.B.: We agree! See Your First Garden: How to Start a Garden for Practically Free.)
4. Save seeds.
Above: Stoddart shares her favorite resilient and perennial crops, including Jerusalem artichokes.
Saving some seeds from your garden is one of the best things you can do to create resilience. “Although you wouldn’t want to save seeds from everything (and believe me, I’ve tried), some seed saving is realistic and the rewards are many,” says Stoddart. In the book, she details how home-saved seeds can become more adapted to your growing conditions. “Having been produced on your own plot, after a few years, the plants grown from seeds you saved will be better adjusted to your space,” she says.
5. Don’t go it alone.
Above: Stoddart says she’s always looking for wildlife in her vegetable garden. “Every creature has its place in a biodiverse garden.”
Back in June, friend of the GPOD Cherry Ong attended the Vancouver Hardy Plant Study Weekend and was kind enough to share photos of some of the gardens she toured. Today she’s taking us along to visit Thomas Hobbs and Brent Beattie’s garden.
Paris (Zones 5–9) has beautiful and unusual flowers. This relative of trilliums has mostly green flowers that reward closer inspection.
In this contrast in textures and shades of green, Paris is again in the foreground with other shade-loving plants, while the sheered shrubs in the background give a contrasting formality to the garden.
Here is a beautiful contrasting mix of foliage colors, with the only floral contribution being the pink blooms of the spirea (Spiraeajaponica, Zones 3–8).
One part garden seat, one part garden art—beautiful and unusual
I love this sculpture in the garden.
Martagon lilies (Lilium hybrid, Zones 3–8) thrive in partially shaded conditions. The leaves are beautiful and topped by these incredible spires of elegant flowers.
This urn tucked into the foliage of the garden is absolutely lovely. What an incredible piece.
An edge of Sedum ‘Angelina’ (Zones 5–9) provides bright yellow-green color, in contrast to the darker green of the rest of the foliage.
Podophyllum (Asian mayapple, Zones 5–9) with incredibly patterned foliage
I love the texture of this mass of Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum sp., Zones 5–9).
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
In the low desert of Arizona, creating a fruitful food forest all year round is possible with the right knowledge and plant selection. Imagine stepping into your backyard to find a variety of ready-to-pick fruits each season. This guide will help you learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona.
Figs
Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.
Peaches
Food Forest Benefits
A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.
Citrus
The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.
Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests
Anna apples
Understanding Chill Hours:
To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.
In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.
You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.
Wonderful pomegranates
Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.
Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones
Bananas
When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.
Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests
Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.
Pomegranates
Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona
Lemons
Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (January – March Harvests)
Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
Kumquats (through March)
Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
Eureka Lemon
Lisbon Lemon
Bearss Lime
Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)
Pomegranates
These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.
Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees
Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.
Feeding fruit trees with compost
Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest
When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.
Guavas
Note:
This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.
Peaches
Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey
Anna apples
When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:
Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
“Gaia’s Garden“ by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
Pruning peppers is easy to do, and it has many benefits for keeping your plants healthy, and maximizing their yields.
In this post, I’m going to walk you through everything you need to know, with tips for choosing the right time to trim them, and the tools you’ll need for the job.
I’ll also give you step-by-step instructions for how to prune peppers like a pro, and share my expert tips for success.
Pruning my pepper plant
Do Pepper Plants Need To Be Pruned?
If you’re happy with how your plant looks, and the amount of peppers that it produces, then there’s no need to prune it.
But if it’s overgrown or hasn’t been flowering or fruiting, then you should definitely trim it back. It’s especially important if you have a short growing season.
There are lots of great reasons why you should get into the habit of trimming your peppers regularly. Here are the main benefits:
Higher Yields
You can increase your yields by pruning, which encourages the plant to focus its energy on developing more peppers.
Simply snip out the extra leaves and suckers – the growths between the leaf and stem joints – as they form, as well as some of the flowers.
Fuller Plants
Regular pruning encourages your pepper plant to branch out, which makes it bushier. Not only does this create a nicer looking plant, it means there will be more fruiting branches.
It also maintains their size and shape, which results in full and compact plants, rather than thin and leggy ones.
Overgrown pepper plant that needs pruning
Disease Prevention
Cutting back overgrown peppers makes it easier for air to circulate around them, and for sunlight to reach the interior foliage. This helps to prevent fungal problems, which can thrive in dark, damp conditions.
Removing all of the leaves that touch the ground can reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases, and attacks by ground-dwelling pests, like slugs and snails.
Larger Fruits
If you pinch off some of the flower buds as they form, it will allow the plant to put more energy into ripening the existing fruits, rather than growing more new ones.
This means that it will produce bigger peppers which will ripen faster, and they’re usually more flavorful too.
You can pinch and snip the flowers and suckers as they appear throughout the summer. But there are two main times when you should trim your plants:
1. Spring – Pruning peppers in the spring as the flowers begin to form will produce hardy plants with well-developed roots, and helps to prevent disease.
2. Late summer – Trimming them in the late summer, before frosty conditions arrive, encourages the fruits to ripen faster to maximize your harvest before it gets too cold.
It’s easy to pinch the small suckers and flower buds off with your fingers. But if you prefer, you can use micro-tip snips of precision pruners instead.
For larger branches, stems, and leaves, I recommend using basic shears to avoid damaging the main stem.
It’s important to note that you should make your cuts at a downward angle so water won’t pool in the wound. Here are the simple steps to follow:
Step 1: Remove dead foliage – Trimming out dead or yellowing leaves and branches is the best way to start. This will tidy things up and give you a good overview of the other parts of the plant that need pruning.
Removing dying leaves from my pepper plant
Step 2: Trim back the bottom leaves –Cut away any foliage or branches that are touching the ground. This will protect the plant from soil-borne diseases and ground-dwelling pests.
Downward angle cut on pepper plant stem
Step 3: Get rid of the suckers –Snip away any large suckers towards the bottom of the plant, and pinch out the smaller ones that are just beginning to form on top.
Step 4: Cut back overgrowth –If your pepper plant looks leggy or overgrown,prune some of the larger leaves and branches to thin it out. Be careful not to get too carried away, however. Plants need their foliage to grow, so it’s important not to remove too much.
Step 5: Pluck off extra flowers (optional) – You can pinch some of the flower buds off of your plant as they develop to encourage bigger peppers. It’s also a good idea to pluck them off in late summer, around 4 to 6 weeks before frost arrives, which will redirect the energy into ripening the existing fruits faster.
To make your pepper plant bushy, simply pinch or trim the new tips on a regular basis. You can also cut back the long or overgrown branches to create a fuller, more compact plant.
Do pepper plants need to be topped?
There’s no need to top large pepper plant varieties, such as bell and poblano. But I recommend cutting back the stems of smaller ones, like Thai or jalapenos, when the branches are about 12 inches tall. Trim them back to the second or third set of leaves.
Pruning peppers is important to get the best yields and the largest fruits. It’s also great for maintaining the size and shape of your plant to keep it compact, bushy, and healthy.
If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!
Pepper Recipes
More About Pruning Plants
Share your tips for pruning peppers in the comments section below.
It’s often so hard to make the shady parts of our gardens sing. And many of us have so much of it – shade on the north side of the house, under our trees, and next to our shrubs.
It’s no wonder species like hostas and lily of the valley are so sought after. You’d have a hard time finding more reliable options for filling the shade with life and color.
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But, as the saying goes, no one is perfect. Not even our shade-loving superstars.
Lily of the valley, for example, isn’t as sweet as she looks. In reality, she can sometimes be quite the menace.
In this guide, we’re going to talk about whether this plant is invasive and what we can do to control it. Here’s what’s in the coming attractions:
Before we discuss invasiveness and what it all means, let’s define what lily of the valley is.
What Is Lily of the Valley?
Convallaria majalis, commonly known as lily of the valley, is a plant native to Eurasia.
It was brought to North America as an ornamental for its white, bell-shaped flowers that dangle delicately from long stalks.
Not just a pretty face, these tiny blossoms exude an outsized fragrance with notes of sweetness, flora, and fresh greenery that’s marvelous enough to grace perfumes.
The only problem is that its mild-mannered appearance hides a wily nature, and it has at times escaped.
Not content to be constrained, this species has quickly found its way into forests and fields, earning itself a bad reputation and the dreaded label of “invasive” (dun dun dun…).
Is Lily of the Valley Invasive?
An invasive plant is one that isn’t indigenous to an area, and that has caused some sort of harm, whether economic or environmental, or to human or animal health.
A species can be regarded as troublesome without being deemed invasive, such as those that are considered noxious.
These terms are important because they allow local, state, and federal governments to regulate and control the plants they deem problematic.
The US federal government defines an invasive species as “an alien species whose introduction does or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health” in Executive Order 13112, which created the National Invasive Species Council.
C. majalis is not currently defined as invasive by the federal government.
It is, however, listed as invasive by local governments in many areas of the eastern United States, as well as Alaska.
Local governments in Wisconsin, Connecticut, New York, Massachusetts, and Pennsylvania all list it as invasive. In many regions it’s listed as a noxious weed instead.
It’s not listed as invasive or noxious in most western states.
So the answer is that, yes, C. majalis may be invasive. It all depends on where you live.
Regardless, this species may grow aggressively. An aggressive plant might be native or not, and it might cause harm or not. What it does do is spread to areas where it isn’t wanted.
Native Species
Remember, in order to be classified as invasive, a plant must be alien. There is some debate about whether or not lily of the valley is native to North America.
C. majalis var. montana, aka C. pseudomajalis, is considered by some to be native to the region.
There is no doubt that these plants vary slightly from C. majalis, but it’s not clear if this is a variety that adapted from plants that escaped cultivation, or if it’s native to the area and shares characteristics with the Eurasian species while being its own distinct species or variety.
Why does this matter? Because a plant that is native to an area, by definition, can’t be invasive.
An invasive species is one that isn’t indigenous to an area. So if we discover that certain types of lily of the valley are native, they might be more welcome in more areas than C. majalis.
Controlling Lily of the Valley
So long as the plant isn’t banned or controlled in your area, you can still plant it. But you might want to keep in mind its enthusiastic growth habit.
If you decide to cultivate it in your garden, you’ll likely want to keep it in check.
The plant spreads through stolons, rhizomes, and berries.
Your first option is to simply allow lily of the valley to grow wild. If you have a large area that needs some erosion control or a partially shady area far away from your other gardens, you can let it spread its wings and fly.
Otherwise, you want to provide it with some boundaries. Literally. Grow it in a bed with distinct borders that separate it from other areas, like a cement border, a sidewalk, or along the side of a building.
This won’t stop the seeds from escaping, so you’ll have to pull any pop-ups you find growing where you don’t want them. Birds may also spread seeds far and wide, so keep this in mind.
That leads me to the other control tactic: regular pulling. If you see a plant stick its head up where it’s not wanted, pull it. Then, thin out your patch regularly, focusing on the outer borders.
In most areas, you can’t thin too much. These plants will come right back with no problem.
You can always divide the plants and spread the love to friends and neighbors – intentionally!
Too Much of a Good Thing?
Whether it’s truly invasive or not, there’s always the possibility of finding yourself with too much of a good thing. Don’t let your lily of the valley become more of a beast than a beauty.
Do you have a favorite way to keep this pretty plant in check? Share your ideas in the comments to help others who are struggling to control it.
Cherry Ong’s beautiful little side garden that she calls the Fern Fairway is always a little jewel box of perfect plants and wonderful combinations. Recently (The Fern Fairway in Summer) she shared how the space looked last summer, and today we’re revisiting with photos taken last September and October as the Fern Fairway entered autumn.
To make the most of this narrow space, Cherry has containers mounted on the wall. The plants visible here include Fuchsia ‘Gartenmeister Bonstedt’ (Zones 10–11 or as an annual), ‘Rita’s Gold’ Boston fern (Nephrolepisexaltata ‘Rita’s Gold’, Zones 10–11 or as an annual), sunset fern (Dryopterislepidopoda, Zones 6–9), Polemonium pulcherricum ‘Golden Feathers’ (Zones 5–9), and Dryopterisdilatata ‘Crispa Congesta’ (Zones 5–9).
Fuchsia ‘Pink Marshmallow’ (Zones 10–11 or as an annual) graced the path and mostly lasted till early December.
Athyrium filix femina ‘Dre’s Dagger’ (Zones 4–8) thrives and continues to wow!
Athyrium‘Godzilla’ (Zones 5–9) is maturing slowly and steadily. For those looking for full-shade perennials, I am happy to report thatLeucothoe fontesiana ‘Rainbow’ (Zones 5–8) flourishes.
ThisAdiantum pedatum (Zones 3–8) is a spectacular division from the garden.
I couldn’t resist decorating, so I fashioned a swag out of dried flowers from the garden—mine and Sylvia’s.
A beat-up wooden arch that I snagged for free from Craiglist framesTricyrtis hirta (Zones 4–8), primrose, and some houseplants.
Hawkshead fuchsia is one of my favorite fuchsias, given its dainty ballerina-like white flowers. It truly shines in the shade! Here it is in November.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Spring-blooming perennials brighten up the landscape, providing much-needed color after the bleak winter winter months. And to keep your plants healthy and vigorous, these shrubs will need proper pruning.
But how does a gardener do that properly when bloom time coincides with when you need to trim your plant?
Pruning your springtime bloomers comes with many benefits, whether it’s improved health of the plant, aesthetics, or to encourage abundant flowering.
But there’s more to the process than simply giving your plants a haircut. You’ll need precision, proper timing, and the right equipment.
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Because it’s quite the dilemma, really: you’ve got pretty flowers on branches that need to be removed.
In a way, it’s a lot like getting pieces of chewed-up bubble gum stuck in an awesome hairdo. Whether you cut those magnificent locks away or leave the Dubble Bubble be, you lose.
Okay, not my best analogy. But you get it – it’s an either/or situation.
Or is it?
Thankfully, horticulture differs quite a bit from hair. In this scenario, you can have your cake and eat it too. It just takes a bit of know-how.
That’s where this guide comes in. I’ll cover everything you need to know about pruning blooming plants in spring.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
Why Prune Blooming Plants?
If you’re gonna take sharp blades to a beautiful bloomer’s branches, it’s worth knowing the reasons why it is beneficial.
Aesthetics
Even if a plant doesn’t have any damaged or diseased branches to get rid of, it may still need some cutting back if it doesn’t have the desired shape.
That’s where strategic pruning can be a huge help.
By removing select branches from critical spots, you can drastically change a plant’s form. It often takes less cutting than you’d think!
Health
Along with appearance, health can also be improved via pruning.
All those damaged, dead, and diseased branches? They’re not just eyesores – they’re vulnerabilities.
And it’s through these weak spots that pathogens and pests can enter the plant and cause even more harm.
Additionally, by removing the branches that aren’t pulling their weight, the plant can direct its energy towards new, healthy growth.
Vigor
But how does this energy redirection work? Well, plants love to keep their roots and shoots in relative proportion.
And once shoots are removed, the root mass is now greater than the shoot mass.
To bring these structures back into balance, the tree will grow its shoots back quicker by increasing its vigor, or its rate of plant growth.
The result? A more vibrant and lush specimen!
What You’ll Need
Unless you’re naturally endowed with bone claws like Wolverine, you’ll need some external tools for all this cutting.
Personal Protective Equipment
Keeping with the Wolverine references… I’m guessing you also don’t have an enhanced healing factor that instantly heals all your wounds. Therefore, you’ll need stuff to prevent said wounds.
For the home gardener, the two most important pieces of PPE are safety glasses and puncture-proof gloves.
The former keeps wood shavings and sharp points out of your eyeballs, while the latter might help to protect your delicate digits from chance cuts.
Want a primo set of bypass pruners with swanky orange handles? Check out Gardener’s Supply.
Loppers
Consisting of short, durable blades and long, strong handles, loppers use the power of physics to make difficult cuts on branches up to a couple inches thick.
For removing live branches in spring, go with bypass rather than anvil loppers, as the latter are better for cutting deadwood.
If you’re interested in a pruning saw with a 12-inch blade, a durable sheath for storage, and a curved handle à la Count Dooku’s lightsaber, check out this Castellari product at Gardener’s Supply.
Isopropyl Alcohol
As you make your cuts, pathogens can easily hitch a ride on your blades and spread from plant to plant… unless you sterilize your tools in between specimens.
And isopropyl alcohol is the perfect germ-killer.
Use a 70 to 99 percent alcohol concentration, with water making up the remainder of the solution.
To sterilize blades, you can either dip them straight into the solution, or use an old spray bottle to spritz them. Wipe the blades down with a clean rag, and they’re ready to go.
If you need some rubbing alcohol, check out these 16-ounce containers of 99 percent isopropyl alcohol available via Amazon.
When to Prune
For most plants, pruning just before bud break in spring is the perfect time to trigger a burst of vegetative growth for the growing season.
However, if it’s the blooms that you’re trying to enhance, then “just before bud break in spring” isn’t always the best time. So when is?
For a plant to have optimal flowering, the best pruning time depends on its bloom window.
For a plant that blooms before mid-June, or the start of summer, you’ll want to hold off on cutting back until after it has flowered.
This allows for a beautiful floral display that’s unadulterated by the stress of losing its mass.
If a plant puts out flowers in summer or later, then you’ll want to prune it in late winter to early spring, before bud break. This gives the specimen enough time to recover before it flowers.
How to Make Your Cuts
Different plants have different forms and shapes, so the exact recommendations will vary from species to species.
But in general, here’s your order of operations for pruning, ranked from most to least important.
If your plant is a woody shrub or tree, promptly remove damaged, dead, or diseased branches. These can be removed year-round, whenever you happen to notice them. If your plant is in bloom, remove any spent flowers and their stalks, along with any damaged, dead, or diseased leaves.
If your plant needs a central leader established, choose the strongest, most centered, and most vertical leader to keep. Remove away competing leaders as needed.
Remove crossing or rubbing branches – these will eventually lead to plant injury. Keep the branch with the branch-to-trunk angle that’s closest to 90 degrees, and cut away the other one.
Remove any branches angled sharply upwards or downwards, or those that otherwise throw off the plant shape you’re going for.
If any branches grow faster than the rest of the plant in a visually distracting way, remove them.
To prevent moisture from collecting on cut stumps, make your cuts parallel to the trunk whenever possible.
For any heavy branches, utilize the three-cut method to avoid a gnarly peeling of trunk bark as the branch falls.
The three-cut method, illustrated. Photo by Joe Butler.
And no matter what plant you’re pruning, don’t remove more than a third of its aboveground mass in one go. Any more, and it’ll be very stressful on the organism.
Have cut branches and stems that need disposal? Sounds like you’ve got some fuel for the compost pile!
Spring Has Sprung…
You know what else has sprung? You, into action, after you’ve read this guide! Thank you, thank you, I’ll be here all week.
Cringe-inducing jokes aside, hopefully you now have a game plan come springtime. As the years pass and you gain experience, it’ll become more and more routine.
Still have questions? Wisdom of your own to share? Check out the comments section below!
