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Tag: vegetables

  • Grilled Swiss Chard Stems: A Simple Recipe Using Just 3 Ingredients

    Grilled Swiss Chard Stems: A Simple Recipe Using Just 3 Ingredients

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    Above: Best cooked over coals, the chard stems can also be grilled stovetop, in a pan.

    Above: Make more than you think you will need; they disappear in a flash.
    Above: Swiss chard stem snack attack.

    Swiss Chard Stems with Anchovy or Miso Dressing

    Makes enough dressing for a large bunch of Swiss chard (about 24 stems)

    Grilling the stems over coals infuses them with that incomparable  smoky flavor. The Swiss chard stems are delicious hot, right off the smoking grill, but they can also be kept for up to a day in the fridge (remove them half an hour before serving). For individual party-portion canapés, slice the chard once cool, and heap them onto bite-sized toasts no more than 15 minutes before they are served. If you are cooking the stems over coals or on a gas grill, toast some day-old slices of bread alongside, to serve with the juicy stems and to sop up every drop of dressing.

    For a vegan version, substitute 2 Tablespoons of miso for the anchovies.

    • Stems from 1 bunch Swiss chard (about 18 – 24 stems), ends trimmed, and washed
    • 6 olive oil-packed anchovies, drained and finely chopped
    • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
    • ¼ cup white wine vinegar

    Bring a pot of water to the boil. Drop in the chard stems and cook until barely tender, until just tender, about 4 minutes. Drain, and lay flat in a dish.

    In a small bowl and jar mix together the anchovies, vinegar, and oil until emulsified. Alternatively, blend all the ingredients until very smooth. Pour the dressing over the blanched chard stems and turn to coat them very well.

    For cooking over coals: Wait until your charcoal is red with a fine layer of ash. Remove the Swiss chard stems from the marinade* and grill them until they take some color on each side, about 2 minutes per side.

    For pan-cooking: Heat dry skillet over high heat for half a minute, then add the stems in single layer (there will be smoke). Cook on one side for a couple of minutes, then flip. Continue to cook until the other side has charred in spots.

    * (You can reuse any saved dressing, adding it to cooked pasta, or tossing crisp salad leaves in it.)

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  • What About Vegan Junk Food and Vegetarians’ Stroke Risk?  | NutritionFacts.org

    What About Vegan Junk Food and Vegetarians’ Stroke Risk?  | NutritionFacts.org

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    Just because you’re eating a vegetarian or vegan diet doesn’t mean you’re eating healthfully.

    “Plant-Based Diets Are Associated with a Lower Risk of Incident Cardiovascular Disease, Cardiovascular Disease Mortality, and All-Cause Mortality in a General Population of Middle-Aged Adults”: This study of a diverse sample of 12,000 Americans found that “progressively increasing the intake of plant foods by reducing the intake of animal foods is associated with benefits on cardiovascular health and mortality.” Still, regarding plant-based diets for cardiovascular disease prevention, “all plant foods are not created equal.” As you can see in the graph below and at 0:40 in my video Vegetarians and Stroke Risk Factors: Vegan Junk Food?, a British study found higher stroke risk in vegetarians. Were they just eating a lot of vegan junk food? 

    “Any diet devoid of animal food sources can be claimed to be a vegetarian [or vegan] diet; thus, it is important to determine” what is being eaten. One of the first things I look at when I’m trying to see how serious a population is about healthy eating is something that is undeniably, uncontroversially bad: soda, aka liquid candy. Anyone drinking straight sugar water doesn’t have health on top of mind.

    A large study was conducted of plant-based eaters in the United States, where people tend to cut down on meat for health reasons far more than for ethics, as you can see in the graph below and at 1:20 in my video.

    Researchers found that flexitarians drink fewer sugary beverages than regular meat eaters, as do pescatarians, vegetarians, and vegans, as you can see below and at 1:30.

    However, in the study from the United Kingdom where the increased stroke risk in vegetarians was found and where people are more likely to go veg or vegan for ethical reasons, researchers found that pescatarians drink less soda, but the vegetarians and vegans drink more, as shown in the graph below and at 1:44. 

    I’m not saying that’s why they had more strokes; it might just give us an idea of how healthfully they were eating. In the UK study, the vegetarian and vegan men and women ate about the same amounts of desserts, cookies, and chocolate, as you can see in the graph below and at 1:53. 

    They also consumed about the same total sugar, as shown below and at 2:02. 

    In the U.S. study, the average non-vegetarian is nearly obese, the vegetarians are a little overweight, and the vegans were the only ideal weight group. In this analysis of the UK study, however, everyone was about the same weight. The meat eaters were lighter than the vegans, as you can see below, and at 2:19 in my video. The EPIC-Oxford study seems to have attracted a particularly “health-conscious” group of meat eaters weighing substantially less than the general population. 

    Let’s look at some specific stroke-related nutrients. Dietary fiber appears to be beneficial for the prevention of cardiovascular disease, including stroke, and it seems the more, the better, as you can see in the graph below and at 2:43 in my video

    Based on studies of nearly half a million men and women, there doesn’t seem to be any upper threshold of benefit—so, again, “the more, the better.” At more than 25 grams of soluble fiber and 47 grams of insoluble dietary fiber, you can start seeing a significant drop in associated stroke risk. So, one could consider these values “as the minimal recommendable daily intake of soluble and insoluble fiber…to prevent stroke at a population level.” That’s what you see in people eating diets centered around minimally processed plant foods. Dean Ornish, M.D., got up around there with his whole food, plant-based diet. It might not be as much as we were designed to eat, based on the analyses of fossilized feces, but that’s about where we might expect significantly lower stroke risk, as shown below and at 3:25 in my video

    How much were the UK vegetarians getting? 22.1 grams. Now, in the UK, they measure fiber a little differently, so it may be closer to 30 grams, but that’s still not the optimal level for stroke prevention. It’s so little fiber that the vegetarians and vegans only beat out the meat eaters by about one or two bowel movements a week, as you can see below and at 3:48 in my video, suggesting the non-meat eaters were eating lots of processed foods. 

    The vegetarians were only eating about half a serving more of fruits and vegetables. Intake is thought to reduce stroke risk in part because of their potassium content, but the UK vegetarians at higher stroke risk were eating so few greens and beans that they couldn’t even match the meat eaters. The vegetarians (and the meat eaters) weren’t even reaching the recommended minimum daily potassium intake of 4,700 mg a day.

    What about sodium? “The vast majority of the available evidence indicates that elevated salt intake is associated with higher stroke risk…” There is practically a straight-line increase in the risk of dying from a stroke, the more salt you eat, as you can see in the graph below and at 4:29 in my video

    Even just lowering sodium intake by a tiny fraction every year could prevent tens of thousands of fatal strokes. “Reducing Sodium Intake to Prevent Stroke: Time for Action, Not Hesitation” was the title of the paper, but the UK vegetarians and vegans appeared to be hesitating, as did the other dietary groups. “All groups exceeded the advised less than 2400 mg daily sodium intake”—and that didn’t even account for salt added to the table! The American Heart Association recommends less than 1,500 mg a day. So, they were all eating a lot of processed foods. It’s no wonder the vegetarians’ blood pressures were only one or two points lower. High blood pressure is perhaps “the single most important potentially modifiable risk factor for stroke.” 

    What evidence do I have that the vegetarians’ and vegans’ stroke risk would go down if they ate more healthfully? Well, in rural Africa, where they were able to nail the fiber intake that our bodies were designed to get by eating so many whole, healthy plant foods—including fruits, vegetables, grains, greens, beans, and protein almost entirely from plant sources—not only was heart disease, our number one killer, “almost non-existent,” but so was stroke. It only surged up from nowhere “with the introduction of salt and refined foods” to their diet. 

    “It is notable that stroke and senile dementia appear to be virtually absent in Kitava, an Oceanic culture [near Australia] whose quasi-vegan traditional diet is very low in salt and very rich in potassium.” They ate fish a few times a week, but the other 95 percent or so of their diet was made up of vegetables, fruits, corn, and beans. They had an apparent absence of stroke, even despite their ridiculously high rates of smoking, 76 percent of men and 80 percent of women. We evolved by eating as little as less than an eighth of a teaspoon of salt a day, and our daily potassium consumption is thought to have been as high as 10,000 mg or so. We went from an unsalted, whole-food diet to eating salty, processed foods depleted of potassium whether we eat meat or not. 

    Caldwell Esselstyn at the Cleveland Clinic tried putting about 200 patients with established cardiovascular disease on a whole food, plant-based diet. Of the 177 who stuck with the diet, only a single patient went on to have a stroke in the subsequent few years, compared to a hundred-fold greater rate of adverse events, including multiple strokes and deaths in those who strayed from the diet. “This is not vegetarianism,” Esselstyn explains. Vegetarians can eat a lot of less-than-ideal foods, “such as milk, cream, butter, cheese, ice cream, and eggs. This new paradigm is exclusively plant-based nutrition.” 

    This entire train of thought—that the reason typical vegetarians don’t have better stroke statistics is because they’re not eating particularly stellar diets—may explain why they don’t have significantly lower stroke rates. However, it still doesn’t explain why they may have higher stroke rates. Even if they’re eating similarly crappy, salty, processed diets, at least they aren’t eating meat, which we know increases stroke risk. There must be something about vegetarian diets that so increases stroke risk that it offsets their inherent advantages. We’ll continue our hunt for the answer next. 

    From a medical standpoint, labels like vegan and vegetarian just tell me what you don’t eat. It’s like identifying yourself as a “No-Twinkie-tarian.” You don’t eat Twinkies? Great, but what’s the rest of your diet like? 

    What are the healthiest foods? Check out my Daily Dozen.

    To catch up on the rest of this series, see related posts below. 

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    Michael Greger M.D. FACLM

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  • Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems

    Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems

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    Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems

    If plants are struggling and not growing well, use this garden troubleshooting guide to help determine the problem and the possible solution.


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems

    Problem: Often caused by: Solutions to try:
    Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well  Weeds: Weeds can choke out other plants and take sunlight, moisture and nutrients • Pull weeds by hand before they set seed
    • If area is severely infested, consider solarizing area
    Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well (cont.) Poor soil • Add good quality compost
    • Amend garden with a balanced organic fertilizer
    • Add worm castings
    • Add vermicomposting bins to beds
    • Add organic matter often to soil
    • Add vermiculite/perlite and coconut coir to increase water-holding capability
    Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well (cont.) Wrong growing season • Plants have a preferred growing temperature; plant at the right time
    • If it is still hot, wait to plant cool-season crops
    • If it is still cold, wait to plant warm-season crops
    Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well (cont.) Lack of sunlight Move containers or raised beds to areas that get enough light
    • Reduce shade by removing trees, etc. 
    • Thin plants – avoid crowding plants too close together
    • Plan your garden to avoid taller plants shading smaller plants; put trellises on the north side of your garden
    • Use a grow light when starting seeds indoors; keep light just a few inches from plants
    (Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
    Problem: Often caused by: Solutions to try:
    Plants look dry around the edges and curl upward  Wind: Wind can be drying and stressful for plants • Take advantage of natural windbreaks in garden planning
    • Add windbreaks; use poly tunnels or cloches for temporary wind protection
    Black spots, soft spots after a freeze Frost Damage • Remove the entire plant (annual) or wait until after danger of frost to cut it back (perennial)
    • Cover frost-susceptible plants during frost events 
    Burned or yellow leaves and sunscald or burned fruit Sun damage • Provide shade during the hottest months of the year
    • Avoid planting sensitive plants in areas that receive afternoon sun
    • Harden off transplants before planting
    Yellow leaves, slow growth, brown dry lower leaves Underwatering • Increase watering
    • Use a moisture meter to get an accurate idea of soil moisture
    Plant wilts easily (Many plants in the Cucurbit family do this normally in the heat of the day; they usually perk back up as temps cool down) Frequent, shallow watering builds fewer, shallower roots that don’t store as much moisture for the plant to use when it’s stressed • Water the entire depth of your raised bed or container to encourage the roots to grow deep 
    • Deep, healthy roots will provide moisture for the plant during the heat of the day 
    Plant looks wilted and may have any or all of the following:
    • Wet soil
    • Brown leaves
    • Yellow falling leaves
    • New growth falling off
    • Floppy plant
    • Mold
    • Slimy or foul-smelling roots(root rot)
    Overwatering • Do not water again until the top inch or more of soil is dry
    • Remove flowers
    • Use a moisture meter to get an accurate idea of soil moisture.
    • Water only when soil is dry to the touch an inch or two below the surface
    (Garden Troubleshooting Guide)

    Learn more about Growing in the Garden Academy here. When you join you get access to all of the past hour-long classes.

    Growing in the Garden Academy ClassGrowing in the Garden Academy Class

    Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems (cont.)

    Problem: Often caused by: Solutions to try:
    Light-green new growth with smaller leaves Possible nitrogen deficiency Feed with fish fertilizer if lacking nitrogen
    Red or purple leaves
    (that are supposed to be green)
    Phosphorus deficiency Feed with seaweed fertilizer
    White (bleached) spots on leaves of newly planted seedlings Too much sun exposure Harden off seedlings gradually
    (Garden Troubleshooting Guide)

    Problem:
    Often caused by: Solution to try:
    Poor harvest Plant does not produce desired harvest • Choose varieties suited to climate (i.e., in the low desert, choose shorter days to harvest and heat-resistant varieties) 
    • Plant at the correct time and temperature
    • Care for plant correctly – pay attention to plant each day
    • Plant in well-draining soil 
    Cracked tomatoes, Splitting fruit & vegetables • Irregular watering
    • Heavy rains
    • Use an automatic timer, oyas, drip irrigation to water tomatoes 
    • Tomatoes don’t like big fluctuations in soil moisture
    • If a large amount of rain is expected, harvest fruit prior to the rain
    Bolting plants (central stalk forms and develops a seed head) Plant switches from food production to seed production Temperature extremes (usually too hot) 
    Powdery mildew
    (a white, powdery-looking substance on leaves; usually begins as small white spots on the top of leaves and spreads)
    • Water on leaves
    • Not enough sunlight or airflow
    • Humid, wet conditions
    • Remove affected leaves
    • Move the container to a sunnier location
    • Prune overcrowded branches or plants to increase air circulation
    • Spray plants with a solution of 1 tsp baking soda or potassium bicarbonate and castile soap mixed with 1 quart water
    • Remove heavily-infected plants
    Tomatoes won’t ripen Too hot, too cold • Top plant by removing cutting central stem.
    • Remove suckers, blossoms, and diseased leaves
    • Smaller tomatoes will ripen faster 
    • Harvest fruit as soon as it flushes color (it will finish indoors)
    • Cover plants at night when temperatures are below 50°F 
    • Move the container to a sunnier location
    (Garden Troubleshooting Guide)

    Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems (cont.)

    Problem: Often caused by: Solutions to try:
    Lack of pollinators and beneficial insects • Pesticide use
    • Lack of flowers, herbs, diverse plantings 
    • Do not use pesticides
    • Use organic controls sparingly
    • Plant a variety of vegetables, flowers, and herbs
    • Allow herbs to flower
    • Interplant different types of crops throughout your garden
    • Grow flowering plants that provide nectar and pollen
    Seeds won’t germinate • Not enough time has passed
    • Poor seeds
    • Seed dried out
    • Wrong temperature (too hot or too cold)
    • Soil is too wet
    • Birds / slugs ate seeds
    • Do not allow newly-planted seeds to dry out
    • Use garden markers to mark newly-planted areas
    • Start indoors or in containers, and then transplant
    • Use fresh seeds
    • Use barrier methods to prevent seed loss from animals and birds
    • Start seeds indoors under controlled conditions
    Diseases Planting crops in same location each year • Rotate different crop families – try to allow 2 years between planting the same family of crops
    • Alliums: garlic, onions, chives 
    • Amaranths: beets, chard, spinach 
    • Asters: lettuce, sunflowers, chamomile 
    • Brassicas: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, radish
    • Cucurbits: squash, cucumber, melon
    • Mint: basil, mint, rosemary, sage
    • Legumes: beans, peas
    • Nightshades: tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant
    • Umbels: carrots, celery, cilantro, dill, parsley
    (Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
    Powdery MildewPowdery Mildew
    Powdery Mildew
    Problem: Often caused by: Solutions to try:
    Diseases (cont.) Planting crops too close together • Plants need sufficient airflow to be healthy
    • Plants that touch each other are more likely to have problems with diseases
    Diseases (cont.) Overwatering • Many fungal diseases are caused by too much water in the soil or on the plant’s leaves
    • Plant in well-draining soil
    Diseases (cont.) Lack of sunlight Most plants need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight to be healthy
    Damage to plants  Rodents Traps, cats
    Damage to plants (cont.) Birds Bird mesh, barrier methods
    Damage to plants (cont.) Insects • Barrier methods, organic gardening methods, beneficial insects
    • Various treatments and causes
    • See the article, “Organic Pest Control That Really Works”, for pest identification and treatment options
    (Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
    Problem: Often caused by: Solutions to try:
    Blossom end rot
    (a brown, leathery rot developing on or near the blossom end of tomatoes, peppers, etc.)
    • Irregular watering
    • Improper soil pH • Lack of calcium
    • Maintain consistent moisture levels throughout season
    • Cold soils limit nutrient uptake
    • Apply mulch to prevent moisture loss
    • Apply a fertilizer higher in phosphorus
    • Maintain soil pH at or near 6.5
    Damping off 
    (Fungal disease that causes the stem to rot and kills seedlings)
    • Crowded seedlings
    • Overhead watering
    • Use sterile potting mix 
    • Grow in well-drained soil with plenty of light
    • Do not crowd seedlings
    • Water from the bottom
    • Thin layer of sand, perlite, or sphagnum moss on the top of the soil 
    • Use a fan to circulate air
    Squash, cucumbers, etc. not forming fruit
    (plenty of flowers, no fruit)
    Lack of pollination  Hand pollinate:
    • Best done early in the morning
    • Remove the male blossom; pick off or pull back the petals and rub the stamen against the pistil of the other flower
    • Alternatively, use a cotton swab to transfer the pollen from the male flower to the female flower
    (Garden Troubleshooting Guide)

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    Angela Judd

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  • Growing Beans in the Garden

    Growing Beans in the Garden

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    5 Tips for How to Grow Beans


    Beans are a warm-season legume grown for the tender pods. Growing beans in the garden is simple. They are prolific and easy to grow. With so many varieties available, beans are a staple in most gardens. Learn how to grow beans and add them to your garden. Keep reading for extra tips if you are growing beans in the low desert of Arizona.


    1. Understand the different types of beans:

    Bush beans grow lower to the ground and yield one larger crop all at once followed by a smaller harvest a couple weeks later. Planting bush beans every two weeks will ensure a continuous supply. Try varieties like dragon tongue and gold rush which are not readily available in supermarkets.

    Easy to grow vegetable beansEasy to grow vegetable beans
    Bush beans in a raised bed

    Pole beans are grown on a trellis, and one planting provides a steady yield all season long. Look for stringless varieties like Kentucky wonder and rattlesnake.

    Pole beans climbing trellisPole beans climbing trellis
    Kentucky wonder pole beans climbing a trellis

    Yardlong beans tolerate heat and humidity better than snap bean varieties. Try varieties such as asparagus beanssnake beans or Chinese long beans. These are very fun to grow, kids love seeing how long the beans get in the garden. Yard-long beans and tepary beans require warmer growing conditions than pole and bush beans and have different planting dates. Other types of beans you can grow include black-eyed peas and borlotti beans.

    Asparagus beansAsparagus beans
    Asparagus beans
    How to Grow Asparagus Beans - 5 Tips for Growing Yardlong BeansHow to Grow Asparagus Beans - 5 Tips for Growing Yardlong Beans

    2. Learn how to plant beans correctly

    • Bean seeds do best when sown directly into the soil.
    • Plant seeds 1 inch deep, and space them 2 inches apart.
    • Growing beans should sprout in 5 to 10 days.
    • Like many other garden plants, beans need plenty of sun to grow properly.
    • Keep soil moist and well-drained for happy beans.

    3. Plant beans at the right time

    Beans need warm soil to sprout and grow well. Begin planting in the spring after last spring frost. Seeds will germinate more quickly in soil temperatures of 70°F – 90°F (21°C – 32°C). Succession plant bean seeds every two weeks throughout the growing season for a fresh supply of beans all season long.

    When to plant beans in Arizona

    • Plant snap beans (bush and pole type) from March 15 through April and again from August through September
    • Lima beans can be planted from March 15 through April and July- August.
    • Plant yardlong beans from March 15 through July.
    • Pinto and tepary beans can be planted in March and with the monsoons in July – August.

    4. Plant companion plants for beans

    Good companion plants for growing beans include carrotscauliflower, marigolds, corn and celery.

    Beans as a companion plant for corn

    5. Harvest beans at the right time

    Harvest beans when the pods are firm and about the diameter of a pencil. Pick beans when young for the best flavor. Harvest beans often to encourage production. As beans mature, they lose flavor, and the pods begin to bulge with seeds. This signals to the plant to stop producing.

    Most beans do not store well; once picked, use them as soon as possible. Store in the fridge if not using them right away. Beans are delicious raw (when picked young) or cooked. Beans are high in vitamins A, B and C, as well as calcium and iron.

    Kentucky Pole Bean Harvest

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    Angela Judd

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  • 6&B Community Garden: Teaching Kids to Grow and Cook Fresh, Healthy Foods in the Lower East Side

    6&B Community Garden: Teaching Kids to Grow and Cook Fresh, Healthy Foods in the Lower East Side

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    Part of the reason Central Park in Manhattan is so famous is that, for a long time, it was the only real green space in the borough. Before the island’s edges were slowly reclaimed for leisure, there was nowhere else to spend time away from the streets. Back then, the rare sight of a community garden on the Lower East Side was a pull—you could practically smell the oxygen, while instinctively crossing the street to walk in its shade.

    The 6&B Community Garden (on Sixth Street and Avenue B) began life in the early 1980s; still going strong, it does more than emit cooling vapors into the hot city streets. Children go there to learn about cooking, in an area that is not only low on parks and trees, but easily accessible, unprocessed food.

    Briar Winters and Michael Mangieri recently spoke to us about the why and how of their outdoor program for kids (run with educator and former garden president, Barbara Caporale). They are local residents who met while working in New York’s kitchens, both with experience working on small farms. Briar now has an apothecary studio, while Michael is a chef—together, they are tackling issues of food equity in the most enjoyable way.

    Photography by Valery Rizzo for Gardenista.

    Why did you get involved with 6&B Community Garden?

    Above: Briar Winters, founder of the Manhattan apothecary Marble and Milkweed, in the 6&B Community Garden on the Lower East Side.

    Briar: I’d been in the neighborhood since 2002 and then when Michael joined me there in 2008, we started really thinking about putting down roots in the community, and becoming involved with the garden felt like a great way to meet our neighbors and be a part of something good.

    Michael: Briar and I decided that if we weren’t going to move out of the city for an agrarian life, then we would find a community garden to get involved with in our neighborhood. We had often visited 6&B and when someone invited us to apply for a plot we leapt at the opportunity.

    How did you take the step to teaching?

    Above: Briar’s partner Michael Mangieri is a chef and baker with She Wolf Bakery.

    Briar: Part of the beauty of being a part of our garden community is that it truly creates a space for all of us to contribute in whatever ways we find meaningful. We have artists, educators, craftspeople and more who lead workshops; all our events are completely free and open to the entire community.

    Michael: We were beginning to be very interested in food justice, and found common ground in that with Barbara [who had recently graduated from Farm School NYC]. We took a few workshops with Edible Schoolyard and with a little trial and error found that our experience from restaurant kitchens was very useful for designing and leading hands-on workshops for kids.

    Briar: Barbara worked on some grants to get the basic equipment we’d need to start, and Michael and I took a few workshops for educators put on by Edible Schoolyard at their wonderful demonstration classroom and garden in East Harlem—and then we were off!

    Part of the idea of food justice is about availability of culturally appropriate food. How do you approach that?

    Above: Gathering Korean Kknaennip leaves.

    Briar: A big part of our program from the beginning has been an emphasis on encouraging our members to share family recipes and foods from their cultures that are meaningful to them. If we can, we try to have the garden member who shared the recipe join us at the workshop to give a little background to the kids before we start. Maybe a story, or a memory of how they remember the dish being prepared when they were young, and how they like to make it now. Whether it’s an everyday dish or something for a special occasion. It really helps to make those connections, and parents will say to us that they’ve never known their child to like this or that vegetable, but the combination of hearing about the dish from someone, and harvesting the ingredients themselves is enough to get them to try something new. Pretty magical!

    Michael: In the kids cooking series we try to highlight the cultural diversity of our garden community. We established a tradition of celebrating Mexican Independence Day in September, joined by our friend Paula Jiminez who contributes recipes. In the past we also hosted the chef-owner of a local Mexican restaurant. In other workshops we’ve collaborated with garden and other community members from Afghanistan, Costa Rica, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Ukraine, and Thailand.

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  • The Stroke Risk of Vegetarians  | NutritionFacts.org

    The Stroke Risk of Vegetarians  | NutritionFacts.org

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    The first study in history on the incidence of stroke in vegetarians and vegans suggests they may be at higher risk.

    “When ranked in order of importance, among the interventions available to prevent stroke, the three most important are probably diet, smoking cessation, and blood pressure control.” Most of us these days are doing pretty good about not smoking, but less than half of us exercise enough. And, according to the American Heart Association, only 1 in 1,000 Americans is eating a healthy diet and less than 1 in 10 is even eating a moderately healthy diet, as you can see in the graph below and at 0:41 in my video Do Vegetarians Really Have Higher Stroke Risk?. Why does it matter? It matters because “diet is an important part of stroke prevention. Reducing sodium intake, avoiding egg yolks, limiting the intake of animal flesh (particularly red meat), and increasing the intake of whole grains, fruits, vegetables, and lentils….Like the sugar industry, the meat and egg industries spend hundreds of millions of dollars on propaganda, unfortunately with great success.” 

    The paper goes on to say, “Box 1 provides links to information about the issue.” I was excited to click on the hyperlink for “Box 1” and was so honored to see four links to my videos on egg industry propaganda, as you can see below and at 1:08 in my video

    The strongest evidence for stroke protection lies in increasing fruit and vegetable intake, with more uncertainty regarding “the role of whole grains, animal products, and dietary patterns,” such as vegetarian diets. One would expect meat-free diets would do great. Meta-analyses have found that vegetarian diets lower cholesterol and blood pressure, as well as enhance weight loss and blood sugar control, and vegan diets may work even better. All the key biomarkers are going in the right direction. Given this, you may be surprised to learn that there hadn’t been any studies on the incidence of stroke in vegetarians and vegans until now. And if you think that is surprising, wait until you hear the results. 

    “Risks of Ischaemic Heart Disease and Stroke in Meat Eaters, Fish Eaters, and Vegetarians Over 18 Years of Follow-Up: Results from the Prospective EPIC-Oxford Study”: There was less heart disease among vegetarians (by which the researchers meant vegetarians and vegans combined). No surprise. Been there, done that. But there was more stroke, as you can see below, and at 2:14 in my video

    An understandable knee-jerk reaction might be: Wait a second, who did this study? Was there a conflict of interest? This is EPIC-Oxford, world-class researchers whose conflicts of interest may be more likely to read: “I am a member of the Vegan Society.”

    What about overadjustment? When the numbers over ten years were crunched, the researchers found 15 strokes for every 1,000 meat eaters, compared to only 9 strokes for every 1,000 vegetarians and vegans, as you can see below and at 2:41 in my video. In that case, how can they say there were more strokes in the vegetarians? This was after adjusting for a variety of factors. The vegetarians were less likely to smoke, for example, so you’d want to cancel that out by adjusting for smoking to effectively compare the stroke risk of nonsmoking vegetarians to nonsmoking meat eaters. If you want to know how a vegetarian diet itself affects stroke rates, you want to cancel out these non-diet-related factors. Sometimes, though, you can overadjust

    The sugar industry does this all the time. This is how it works: Imagine you just got a grant from the soda industry to study the effect of soda on the childhood obesity epidemic. What could you possibly do after putting all the studies together to conclude that there was a “near zero” effect of sugary beverage consumption on body weight? Well, since you know that drinking liquid candy can lead to excess calories that can lead to obesity, if you control for calories, if you control for a factor that’s in the causal chain, effectively only comparing soda drinkers who take in the same number of calories as non-soda-drinkers, then you could undermine the soda-to-obesity effect, and that’s exactly what they did. That introduces “over adjustment bias.” Instead of just controlling for some unrelated factor, you control for an intermediate variable on the cause-and-effect pathway between exposure and outcome.

    Overadjustment is how meat and dairy industry-funded researchers have been accused of “obscuring true associations” between saturated fat and cardiovascular disease. We know that saturated fat increases cholesterol, which increases heart disease risk. Therefore, if you control for cholesterol, effectively only comparing saturated fat eaters with the same cholesterol levels as non-saturated-fat eaters, that could undermine the saturated fat-to-heart disease effect.

    Let’s get back to the EPIC-Oxford study. Since vegetarian eating lowers blood pressure and a lowered blood pressure leads to less stroke, controlling for blood pressure would be an overadjustment, effectively only comparing vegetarians to meat eaters with the same low blood pressure. That’s not fair, since lower blood pressure is one of the benefits of vegetarian eating, not some unrelated factor like smoking. So, that would undermine the afforded protection. Did the researchers do that? No. They only adjusted for unrelated factors, like education, socioeconomic class, smoking, exercise, and alcohol. That’s what you want. You want to tease out the effects of a vegetarian diet on stroke risk. You want to try to equalize everything else to tease out the effects of just the dietary choice. And, since the meat eaters in the study were an average of ten years older than the vegetarians, you can see how vegetarians could come out worse after adjusting for that. Since stroke risk can increase exponentially with age, you can see how 9 strokes among 1,000 vegetarians in their 40s could be worse than 15 strokes among 1,000 meat-eaters in their 50s. 

    The fact that vegetarians had greater stroke risk despite their lower blood pressure suggests there’s something about meat-free diets that so increases stroke risk it’s enough to cancel out the blood pressure benefits. But, even if that’s true, you would still want to eat that way. As you can see in the graph below and at 6:16 in my video, stroke is our fifth leading cause of death, whereas heart disease is number one. 

    So, yes, in the study, there were more cases of stroke in vegetarians, but there were fewer cases of heart disease, as you can see below and at 6:29. If there is something increasing stroke risk in vegetarians, it would be nice to know what it is in hopes of figuring out how to get the best of both worlds. This is the question we will turn to next. 

    I called it 21 years ago. There’s an old video of me on YouTube where I air my concerns about stroke risk in vegetarians and vegans. (You can tell it’s from 2003 by my cutting-edge use of advanced whiteboard technology and the fact that I still had hair.) The good news is that I think there’s an easy fix.

    This is the third in a 12-video series on stroke risk. Links to the others are in the related posts below.

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    Michael Greger M.D. FACLM

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  • Cheesy Basil Roasted Vegetables [+Video] – Oh Sweet Basil

    Cheesy Basil Roasted Vegetables [+Video] – Oh Sweet Basil

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    This easy and delicious recipe combines the savory flavors of cheese and basil with roasted vegetables for a satisfying and nutritious meal. Perfect for those end of summer veggies!

    One of the hardest parts about cooking dinner during the summer is always turning on the oven. No one wants to do it. Am I right? I totally understand and I hear you, I do, but now I’m going to ask you to do just that because this cheesy basil vegetables side dish is so worth it. Roasted vegetables always are.

    We had a few veggies that needed to be used up, but more importantly our basil was in it’s last few days of life and so I thought I would try my hand at a quick and easy veggie dish that you all can serve. We looooooved it.

    How to Make Roasted Summer Vegetables Video

    This is so easy and you can definitely use fresh or dried basil which means that this recipe is one you can make all year round. I know your guests will love it once Thanksgiving hits too. I know, let’s not even talk about that yet, but it’s true. It will be here before we know it!

    a photo of all the ingredients need for cheesy basil roasted summer vegetables

    Ingredients for Roasted Summer Veggies

    Roasted vegetables are my favorite kind of vegetables! And keeping them simple is the best way to go. All you need is a few simple ingredients to make this tasty vegetables side dish. Here is what you need:

    • Vegetables: Carrots, Zucchini, and Yellow Squash
    • Cheese: Mozzarella Cheese and Parmesan Cheese
    • Flavor: Basil and Garlic
    • Extra Virgin Olive Oil
    • Salt and Pepper

    The measurements and details for each ingredient can be found in the recipe card at the end of this post.

    a photo of a rectangular baking dish filled with fresh sliced zucchini, yellow squash and carrots ready to be roasted

    How to Make Cheesy Basil Roasted Vegetables

    Your first step will be to slice up your veggies, then toss them with the rest of the ingredients saving a little of the basil and cheeses for later. Then roast it all up in the oven. The last few minutes top with the additional cheese and then sprinkle the last of the basil on before serving. If it’s winter and you don’t have fresh basil you can garnish with a little parsley. Booyah!

    Are Vegetables Hard to Digest?

    Some vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage and kale contain high fiber and cellulose, which are hard to digest. But, eating these vegetables reduces your risk of cancers of the digestive tract.

    Carrots, winter squash, summer squash (especially peeled), starchy tubers (yams, sweet potatoes, potatoes), turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, beets, plantains, yaro, and Yuca are generally easier on the digestive system.

    a photo of a large baking dish filled with roasted cheesy basil vegetables

    Is Yellow Squash the Same as Summer Squash?

    The term summer squash includes many varieties of squash, such as yellow squash, zucchini, and crook neck squash which are all harvested in the summer.

    Which is Healthier, Yellow Squash or Zucchini?

    The nutrients in yellow squash and zucchini are pretty close in comparison, however, zucchini is lower in sugar.

    a closeup photo of melted cheese covered roasted vegetables

    Substitutions and Variations

    This recipe is so versatile you can substitute different vegetables or add more vegetables. You can also play with the cheeses for different flavor. Adding bell peppers or red onions would be so yummy! If you want to try some winter vegetables in this recipe, try swapping in some butternut squash, brussel sprouts, cauliflower or broccoli.

    As for the cheese, I love the meltiness of the mozzarella, but if you want some heat, try using pepper jack cheese! Colby jack or monterey jack cheese would also be fabulous!

    If you want to go for lower calories without the cheese, check out our simple roasted veggies recipe!

    What to Serve with Cheesy Basil Roasted Vegetables

    Whether you’re making this roasted vegetable recipe during the summer, fall or winter, it will be make a fantastic side dish for any main course. Here are some ideas:

    a photo of roasted summer vegetables covered with melted cheese and chopped fresh basil on top

    Storing and Reheating

    Leftovers should be stored in the refrigeration in an airtight container. Leftover vegetables will keep for 3-4 days.

    You can reheat the leftovers in the microwave or in the oven. If I have the time, I prefer the oven because it keeps the cheese and veggies nice and toasty. Add the vegetables to a baking dish and reheat at 350 degrees F for 10-15 minutes or until heated through. I find that the microwave kind of makes everything a little soggy.

    a photo of roasted sliced zucchini, yellow squash, and carrots roasted and topped with melted cheese

    This delicious and easy recipe for cheesy basil roasted vegetables is the perfect way to add some flavor to your daily veggie intake. Try it out and see for yourself!

    More Vegetable Side Dishes:

    Servings: 6 servings

    Prep Time: 15 minutes

    Cook Time: 30 minutes

    Total Time: 45 minutes

    Description

    This easy and delicious recipe combines the savory flavors of cheese and basil with fresh vegetables for a satisfying and nutritious meal. Perfect for those end of summer vegetables!

    Prevent your screen from going dark

    • In a large bowl, add all of the vegetables, 1/2 Cup Mozzarella, 1/2 Cup Parmesan, basil, garlic and salt and pepper.

      2 Medium Carrots, 2 Small Zucchini, 2 Small Yellow Squash, 2 Cloves Garlic, 3/4 Cup Low-Moisture Part Skim Mozzarella Cheese, 3/4 Cup Parmesan Cheese, 1/4 Cup Basil, Salt and Pepper

    • Drizzle about 1/4 Cup Olive oil over the vegetables. Just enough to slightly coat them.

      Extra Virgin Olive Oil

    • Place everything in a 9×13 inch pan.

    • Bake at 400 for 20-30 min, or until the vegetables are tender and the cheese is browning and bubbly.

    • The last 10 minutes add the remaining cheese.

    • Before serving garnish with fresh basil or fresh parsley if needed.

    Store left overs in the refrigerator for 3-4 days.

    Serving: 1cupCalories: 114kcalCarbohydrates: 6gProtein: 9gFat: 6gSaturated Fat: 4gPolyunsaturated Fat: 0.3gMonounsaturated Fat: 2gCholesterol: 18mgSodium: 317mgPotassium: 306mgFiber: 1gSugar: 3gVitamin A: 3790IUVitamin C: 15mgCalcium: 268mgIron: 1mg

    Author: Sweet Basil

    Course: Over 100 Easter Recipes for Spring

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    My favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.comMy favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.com
    My favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.comMy favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.com
    My favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.comMy favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.com
    My favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.comMy favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.com
    My favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.comMy favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.com
    Want the best way to use up all of that squash and zucchini? Cheesy basil veggies! ohsweetbasil.comWant the best way to use up all of that squash and zucchini? Cheesy basil veggies! ohsweetbasil.com
    My favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.comMy favorite thing to do with our garden vegetables is roast them for this roasted cheesy basil recipe! ohsweetbasil.com

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    Sweet Basil

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  • Milkweed Pods: How to Gather, Prepare, and Eat This Summer Vegetable

    Milkweed Pods: How to Gather, Prepare, and Eat This Summer Vegetable

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    Common milkweed pods are a native vegetable that could be as familiar at summer greenmarkets as okra. As a food, milkweed still resides on the foraging fringes, or on rare restaurant menus, despite having been valued by Native Americans in regions throughout its range. Like okra, milkweed pods herald sweltering weather and are ready to harvest when crickets warm up and cicadas begin to zing. While succulent okra originates in Africa, and is grown as an annual crop in the United States, common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is a cold-hardy perennial indigenous to eastern North America. It has edible shoots, buds, flowers, and immature pods. And it is one of the most valuable milkweed hosts for monarch butterfly larvae.

    Here’s why to plant common milkweed as a vegetable, and how to prepare milkweed pods once you have gathered a clutch.

    Photography by Marie Viljoen.

    Above: Warts and all, these tender common milkweed pods are at the right stage for harvest.

    Dozens of milkweeds are native to North America. Monarchs, and hundreds of other insects, rely on them all for food. It bears repeating that the species we are discussing as human fare is Asclepias syriaca.

    All parts of cooked common milkweed taste like a mild green vegetable, along with a distinctive sweetness. It is never bitter. If you have collected, or grow, a milkweed whose distinctive white sap does taste bitter (raw or cooked), it’s a different species. (Others may be edible, but we are not addressing them here.)

    Above: Common milkweed flowers are heavily perfumed.

    Common milkweed blooms in early to midsummer. Its plump umbels of blossoms are richly scented and they are edible in their own right, as are the immature green clusters of buds that precede them.

    Above: Immature milkweed pods are tender and sweet.

    Milkweed pods form about three weeks after a flower has been pollinated. More than the spring shoots or flower buds, they taste uniquely like the scent of the flowers, their flavor coming from the soft white seeds and their pre-silk nestled inside rough, green capsules. While the pods are immature, before the silk has strengthened and the seeds hardened, the entire milkweed pod is edible. (Later, as the capsule toughens, the seed-and-silk cluster inside can be popped out and cooked alone, before the silk becomes tough.)

    Above: Tiny pods are good to eat, too. Large ones are fibrous.
    Above: Common milkweed pods in my previous vegetable garden.

    Despite the fact that this striking native plant is beautiful in bloom, supports hundreds of insect species, and is edible from nose to tail (as it were), it remains unusual in cultivation. I have yet to hear of a farmer growing it for the table, but perceptions shift: Ten years ago no one was bringing invasive and edible Japanese knotweed to market, either, and that has begun to change.

    Above: A monarch butterfly on milkweed in my previous garden. Their caterpillars feed on the leaves.

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  • I’ve Made This Creamy Parmesan Zucchini Every Week This Summer

    I’ve Made This Creamy Parmesan Zucchini Every Week This Summer

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    The beginning of August marks zucchini season for me. Sure, it’s been showing up at the farmers market — and my garden, finally! — for the last couple of weeks, but this is when the real bumper crop of summer squash hits. My local farmers are trying to get rid of all their zucchini every Saturday morning. I can score big ones for just $1 each, so I typically walk out lugging way more than I should be — because who can pass up a deal like that?
    READ MORE…

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    Lindsay Funston

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  • Eat Quinoa and Lower Triglycerides? | NutritionFacts.org

    Eat Quinoa and Lower Triglycerides? | NutritionFacts.org

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    How do the nutrition and health effects of quinoa compare to other whole grains?

    “Approximately 90% of the world’s calories are provided by less than one percent of the known 250,000 edible plant species.” The big three are wheat, corn, and rice, and our reliance on them may be unsustainable, given the ongoing climate crisis. This has spurred new interest in “underutilized crops,” like quinoa, which might do better with drought and heat.

    Quinoa has only recently been introduced into the Northern Hemisphere, but humans have been eating quinoa for more than 7,000 years. Is there any truth to its “superfood” designation, or is it all just marketing hooey?

    Quinoa is a “pseudograin,” since the plant it comes from isn’t a type of grass. “Botanically speaking quinoa is an achene, a seed-like fruit with a hard coat,” and it has a lot of vitamins and minerals, but so do all whole grains. It also has a lot of protein. As you can see below and in a series of graphs starting at 1:05 in my video Benefits of Quinoa for Lowering Triglycerides, quinoa has more protein than other grains, but since when do we need more protein? Fiber is what we’re sorely lacking, and its fiber content is relatively modest, compared to barley or rye. Quinoa is pretty strong on folate and vitamin E, though, and it leads the pack on magnesium, iron, and zinc. So, it is nutritious, but when I think superfood, I think of something with some sort of special clinical benefit. Broccoli is a superfood, strawberries are a superfood, and so is garlic, but quinoa? Consumer demand is up, thanks in part to “perceived health benefits,” and it has all sorts of purported benefits in lab animals, but there have been very few human studies. 

    The first trial was a before-and-after study of quinoa granola bars that showed drops in triglycerides and cholesterol, as you can see below and at 1:53 in my video, but it didn’t have a control group, so we don’t know how much of that would have happened without the quinoa. The kind of study I want to see is a randomized controlled trial. When researchers gave participants about a cup of cooked quinoa every day for 12 weeks, they experienced a 36 percent drop in their triglycerides. That’s comparable to what one gets with triglyceride-lowering drugs or high-dose fish oil supplements.

    Which is better, regular quinoa or red quinoa? As you can see in the graph below and at 2:22 in my video, the red variety has about twice the antioxidant power, leading the investigators to conclude that red quinoa “might…contribute significantly to the management and/or prevention of degenerative diseases associated with free radical damage,” but it’s never been put to the test. 

    What about black quinoa? Both red and black quinoa appear to be equally antioxidant-rich, both beating out the more conventional white variety, as you can see in the graph below and at 2:46 in my video

    The only caveat I could find is to inform your doctor before your next colonoscopy or else they might mistake quinoa for parasites. As reported in a paper, a “colonoscopy revealed numerous egg-like tan-yellow ovoid objects, 2 to 3 mm in diameter, of unclear cause,” but they were just undigested quinoa.

    For more on the superfoods I mentioned, check the related posts below.

    Isn’t fish oil important to heart health? Find out in my video Is Fish Oil Just Snake Oil?.

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    Michael Greger M.D. FACLM

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  • Understanding the importance of crop rotation in your vegetable garden – Growing Family

    Understanding the importance of crop rotation in your vegetable garden – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    Growing your own fruit and vegetables can be a rewarding experience, but if you’re new to this hobby the results can sometimes be rather hit and miss. As with any hobby, it takes time to learn the necessary skills and gain the experience to help your vegetable garden thrive.

    If you vegetables aren’t producing the harvest you hoped for, lack of crop rotation could be one of the causes. Here’s a quick guide to the importance of crop rotation, and how to get it right in your vegetable plot.

    a person holding a basket of harvested vegetables in a garden

    Why is crop rotation important?

    Crop rotation is the process of planting different crops one after another on the same patch of land. Planting the same crop in the same area is not always good for the soil, and can negatively impact the health of your plants and the size of your harvest.

    Crop rotation offers a number of benefits to vegetable gardeners, including:

    • Preservation of soil nutrients: Growing the same plant in the same location can lead to insufficient nutrients for that particular crop. By rotating crops with different nutrient requirements you can keep soil nutrient levels more balanced. Some crops also add nutrients back into the soil, which is another good reason to rotate your veggies.
    • Pest control: Some pests prefer particular types of vegetable plant. If you grow the same crop year after year this increases the chances of pests becoming established. Rotating crops allows you to interrupt life cycles and keep pests under control naturally.
    • Weed control: As with pests, crop rotation can break the cycle of weed growth. By rotating your crops over time, you can manage weeds and possible even avoid their growth altogether. For further information on managing home gardens, learn more here.
    • Better soil structure: vegetable plants have a range of root structures. Varying the types of roots growing in your soil can improve its structure and make it more likely to produce a good yield.
    a person digging in a gardena person digging in a garden

    Tips and tricks for successful crop rotation

    Once you understand the importance of crop rotation, the next step is to put it into practice. Here are some tips to help you get the most from your vegetable garden:

    • Get organised: Work out which crops you’re going to plant. Then, work out which plant family each one belongs to. This will allow you to plan the succession of crops by season.
    • Divide gardening areas: Divide your vegetable garden into specific regions so you can easily keep track of your crop rotation. Each designated area will host a specific crop each season. Make sure you keep a note of what you have grown and where!
    • Maintain proper hygiene: Always remember to clean your gardening tools after use. This will not only increase the lifespan of your tools but will benefit the plants too. Good sanitation practice is most effective against spread of diseases in the garden. If you want to create a fabulous and beautiful garden, click here and find all you need to know about getting help from the experts.

    Final thoughts

    Crop rotation can be a powerful tool in your quest to grow a bumper vegetable harvest. By understanding the principle and putting it into practice in a methodical way, you can save time and effort while also improving the health of your garden and the size of your crops.

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    Catherine

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  • Six Things to Know Before You Plant Asparagus

    Six Things to Know Before You Plant Asparagus

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    Six Things to Know Before You Plant Asparagus

    Learning how to grow asparagus is simple. Asparagus is a dependable favorite in the home garden. Plants take 2 or 3 years before they are ready to harvest, but then produce tasty spears for the next 10-15 years. Asparagus stalks increase in circumference and number over time — it definitely gets better with age.

    I love picking a fresh spear and handing it to garden visitors during asparagus season. Their eyes light up when they taste freshly-picked asparagus for the first time. This is one vegetable that tastes best straight from the garden. 


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    6 TIPS FOR HOW TO GROW ASPARAGUS


    How to grow asparagusHow to grow asparagus

    1. Understand the process of how to grow asparagus

    • Asparagus roots produce individual stalks above ground. 
    • When the stalks are harvested in the spring, this depletes the energy from the roots. 
    • After a period of harvesting, the stalks are allowed to develop into ferns. 
    • Vigorous and healthy ferns in the summer help ensure a good asparagus harvest the next spring. The photosynthesis that takes place in the ferns throughout the summer replenishes the energy of the depleted roots.
    • The ferns go dormant in winter and turn brown or yellow — at this point, they can be cut back. In cold-winter areas, leave the stalks in place until spring; they help protect the root crowns. 
    • In the spring, shoots appear from the overwintering roots. These stalks grow larger in circumference every year as their life cycle continues.

    2. Decide on the best location to plant asparagus

    Because asparagus plants produce for several years, they require a dedicated bed for that period of time. Choose a location that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun daily. Avoid windy areas and areas where water puddles.

    Use raised beds if possible because asparagus roots become soggy and may rot in clay soil. Asparagus needs rich, well-amended soil that is high in phosphate. 

    How to grow asparagusHow to grow asparagus


    3. Decide whether to plant asparagus seeds or crowns (roots)

    Decide whether to plant asparagus seeds or crowns Decide whether to plant asparagus seeds or crowns

    It’s easiest to establish asparagus by planting 1 to 2 year old crowns (roots). They produce harvestable stalks about a year after planting. 

    How to grow AsparagusHow to grow Asparagus

    Asparagus can also be planted from seed. This method is less expensive but it requires a 2 year (or longer) wait and more care for the emerging seeds. 

    How to grow asparagusHow to grow asparagus

    You may also find transplants started from seed at your local nursery.

    Asparagus is classified as ‘traditional’ or ‘all male’. ‘All male’ varieties, such as Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme, and Marte, often produce larger spears (and more of them) because they do not have to expend energy into seed production like the ‘traditional’ varieties such as Martha Washington and Purple Passion.


    4. Plant asparagus correctly

    • Plant in early spring in cold-winter areas. In mild-winter climates, plant in the fall or winter. In the low desert of Arizona, start seeds indoors from August – November. Plant transplants outside from November – January.
    • Prepare the asparagus bed by adding compost and composted manure to create rich soil.  
    • If planting from seed, plant seeds in small containers with potting soil or in the beds. Sow seeds ½ inch deep. Germination takes about 30 days. Transplant plants to the permanent bed when plants are 3 inches tall.
    • To plant from crowns, dig a 6-inch trench and place dormant roots in it about 12 inches apart. Cover crowns with about 2 inches of soil and gently tamp them down. Add 2 inches of soil every two weeks until the trenches are filled with soil and slightly mounded on top.

    5. Wait until the asparagus is large enough before harvesting

    • For the first year after planting (two if started from seed), do not cut or harvest any stalks. Allow the stalks to go dormant in the fall, and cut back watering or stop completely. 
    • New spears begin to emerge the following spring, and you can harvest any that are at least ¼ inch in diameter. Let smaller stalks grow through the summer to give energy to the roots.

    6. Harvest and enjoy asparagus

    • Harvest spears when they are 6 to 10 inches long, and the tips are firm and tight. Do not harvest spears smaller than ¼ inch thick, and do not harvest the first year. The following year, harvest for 2 weeks. Extend the harvest each year by two weeks until you are harvesting for 6-8 weeks.
    • Pick asparagus every three days, more often in warm weather. Pick asparagus by snapping off at ground level with your thumb and index finger. You can also cut off just below the soil surface with an asparagus knife or other sharp knife. 
    • Asparagus is delicious when eaten fresh in the garden. Eat or preserve it as soon as possible after picking. You can also store stalks upright in a small amount of water in the fridge. 

    Timeline for How to Grow Asparagus in the Low Desert of Arizona

    January Cut back dry stalks and amend with 2-3 inches of composted manure and a 2-inch layer of wood chips, straw, or compost. Feed lightly with a balanced organic fertilizer.
    Early spring Harvest stalks that are more than ¼ inch in diameter for 4-6 weeks. Let smaller ones continue to grow.
    Late spring Do not harvest; allow stalks to grow into ferns. Amend the spent bed with a balanced organic fertilizer, 2-3 inches of composted manure, and a 2-inch layer of wood chips, straw, or compost. 
    Summer / Fall Water the beds and do not let them dry out. Allow ferns to grow and provide energy for roots.
    Winter Ferns will begin to turn yellow. Cut back watering and allow the asparagus to go dormant.

    If you enjoyed this post about how to grow asparagus, please share it:


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    Jennifer

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  • I’m Making This Light & Creamy Shrimp Salad on Repeat This Summer

    I’m Making This Light & Creamy Shrimp Salad on Repeat This Summer

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    We independently select these products—if you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. All prices were accurate at the time of publishing.

    I love shrimp in all its forms, whether it’s fried, dished up in a garlicky scampi, or served cocktail-style. However, come summertime, all I want to eat is this avocado shrimp salad on repeat. For this recipe, I toss juicy, plump shrimp with cubes of ripe avocado, creamy mayo, chopped celery, shallot, cilantro, and a squeeze of fresh lime juice. I’ll happily eat it for lunch, dinner, or as a late-night snack, heaped onto a slice of sturdy toasted bread, into a hot dog bun (bonus points if it’s toasted in a pan with melted butter first), or on top of some leafy greens. A colleague once told me that it was so good, she eats it straight from the bowl. Trust me, it’s a guaranteed crowd-pleaser, no matter the preferred eating method.  

    Key Ingredients in Avocado Shrimp Salad

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    Kristina Razon

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  • My Homemade Italian Giardiniera Will Be the Star of Every Cookout (1000x Better Than Jarred!)

    My Homemade Italian Giardiniera Will Be the Star of Every Cookout (1000x Better Than Jarred!)

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    We independently select these products—if you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. All prices were accurate at the time of publishing.

    Visit any Italian market and, tucked among the olives, capers, and roasted red peppers, you’ll find giardiniera. To Italians, giardiniera (pronounced jar-din-AIR-ah) is a way of saying pickled vegetables. The condiment is also known as verdure sott’aceto, which translates to “vegetables under vinegar.” The vegetables are usually eaten with salads or as an antipasto, often accompanied by cheeses or cured meats, but it’s also delicious stuffed into an Italian beef sandwich.

    Like many Italian dishes, there’s a traditional and an Italian-American version of giardiniera. The latter is referred to as “Chicago-style.” Italian-style giardiniera includes cauliflower, bell peppers, carrots, celery, and sometimes gherkins, and the vegetables are marinated in olive oil, red or white wine vinegar, herbs, and spices. Chicago-style giardiniera adds hot peppers to the mix, and the marinade contains little or no vinegar. This recipe falls squarely in the middle of these two iterations: It’s got lots of vinegary tang, plus the added heat of pepperoncinis.

    Key Ingredients in Giardiniera

    Storage and Make-Ahead Tips 

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    Kelli Foster

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  • Surviving July: Arizona Gardening in the Low Desert

    Surviving July: Arizona Gardening in the Low Desert

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    Gardening in the low desert of Arizona during July is difficult. Learn how to maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in July and navigate the challenges of hot weather to ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, and what to plant. I’ve also included a helpful “July Garden Task Checklist.”

    July is typically the hottest month in the low desert. Monsoons may bring humidity and moisture, but they may not. It’s essential to pay attention to your plants’ watering needs this month. The average temperature is 107°F (41.6°C), and the average rainfall is 1.22 inches. When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.

    Arizona Garden in JulyArizona Garden in July

    What To Do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July

    Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during July:

    Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.


    Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July

    A few keys to gardening during July in the low desert include:

    Vegetable garden tasks during July:

    • Prepare for monsoon winds by staking roselle plants, large sunflowers, and other plants requiring extra support. Learn more about monsoon gardening in this blog post.
    • Consider planting sweet potato slips or black-eyed peas as a cover crop in any empty beds. Learn more in this blog post.
    • Fertilize sweet potatoes with a balanced fertilizer
    • Clear out squash and other plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease to make room for monsoon and fall planting.
    • Don’t prune or fertilize most plants. Most need to be in summer dormancy to survive. Pruning can expose new areas to sunlight damage, and fertilizing can cause stress. 
    • Bell peppers can get sunburned if fruits get direct sun; provide some shade if scalding is a problem. 
    • Tomatoes may be finishing up. Remove spent or diseased plants. Note which varieties you liked and which did well. If tomato plants still look healthy, let them stay in the garden and keep them alive. They will produce again when temperatures fall.
    • Cucumber production slows or even stops this month as temperatures heat up. Pull plants if necessary if cucumbers are bitter or pests or diseases are an issue. Plant Armenian cucumbers in their place. Although other cucumbers may not like the heat, Armenian cucumbers thrive all summer.
    • Pot up any indoor-grown seedlings outgrowing their containers if it is not time to plant them outside. Fertilize indoor-grown seedlings every other watering.
    Anemone corms
    • If you haven’t already, order garlic and other fall-planted bulbs like ranunculus and anemone. Also, order prechilled tulip bulbs to plant at Thanksgiving, and Saffron crocus if you want to grow the world’s most expensive spice.
    • Go through your seeds and plan for fall and winter planting. 
    • Onion blooms have developed seeds. Save them and try growing your own from seed. You can also save bolted parsley and dill seeds.

    Possible Harvests This Month:

    Roma tomatoes

    Harvest crops early in the day when temperatures are cooler, and their moisture content is higher. Bring harvests inside right away to prolong storage life and increase food quality.

    Here’s a tip for cucumbers after harvesting: Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp. 

    Immersing cucumbers in ice water cools them quickly

    Vegetables:

    Armenian Cucumbers, Butternut Squash, Pumpkins, Cucumbers, Summer Squash, Tomatoes, Eggplant, Okra, Peppers, Mini Pumpkins, Beans, Tomatillos, Amaranth, Borlotti Beans, Asparagus Beans

    Herbs:

    Oregano, Sage, Basil, Dill Seeds, Parsley Seeds, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Lemongrass, Stevia, Lemon Verbena, Lemon Balm

    Fruit:

    Blackberries, Chichiquelite, Figs, Apples, Watermelon, Cantaloupe, Passionfruit, Grapes, Ground Cherries

    (click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)

    Vegetable Watering Guidelines:

    • Hopefully, monsoon humidity and added moisture will come to the low desert this month. A rain gauge is helpful for measuring how much rain you receive. If you measure .5 inches of rain, check that the rain penetrated your soil and then turn off your water timer. You can also insert a screwdriver into grass or rocks to determine whether to water. If it passes easily into the soil, you can wait to water. Monitor plants for signs of stress and ensure they get enough water and have good drainage.  
    • During hot weather, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-3 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out before watering again. 
    • During July, I usually water my raised beds every other day. I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
    • If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering. 
    Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller

    SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL

    Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”

    Twice a month, I share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. As a member, you have access to the past 3 years of garden journals and monthly classes.

    Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!


    Low Desert Arizona in July: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month

    Monitor plants for pests and diseases. If plants are struggling or overwhelmed with pests, it is often best to remove them rather than treat them. The heat is stressful for plants – they probably won’t recover if they are overtaken. 

    Damage from leaf-cutter bees

    Common Pests During July:

    Spray off beans with water to discourage spider mites
    • Spider mites are common on beans, especially in hot, dry conditions. This blog post explains how to prevent and treat them.
    • If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
    • Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
    A soapy bucket of water is essential for catching squash bugs and leaf-footed bugs
    • Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
    • Other common pests include katydids, crickets, and grasshoppers. Birds and spiders are natural predators.
    • Milkweed and other seed bugs are common on seed pods and best left untreated; they usually don’t cause damage.
    Lovebirds on branching sunflowers in Mesa, Arizona

    Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:

    Abandoned cicada exoskeletons on a vitex trunk
    • During July, the hum of cicadas often fills the air. They emerge from the soil and love warm, humid temperatures. Cicadas are Important pollinators and a food source for other animals.
    • Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves.
    • Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
    • Other wildlife may include lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.
    • Keep your chickens cool by providing water for them to stand in. Consider adding a misting stand. Keeping them hydrated with extra cucumbers and watermelon can also help. 
    Gulf Fritillary caterpillar


    Low Desert Arizona in July: Container Gardening Tips

    • If possible, put small containers away until the fall. Use the soil from the containers as mulch or add to compost.
    • Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
    • Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.

    Container Watering Guidelines:

    • As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
    • If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
    • During July, I usually water my containers every other day and fill up the ollas each time I water. Adding ollas to containers helps with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.

    Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July

    Arizona gardening in July wouldn’t be the same without sunflowers! I love this branching variety. They are everywhere in my yard, and I love them. There are many reasons to plant sunflowers: they provide shade, can be used as a trellis, attract wildlife and pollinators, and are simple to grow from seed in nearly any spot in your yard.

    • Rudbeckia attracts pollinators, grows well from seed, and makes an excellent cut flower.
    • Tithonia is a heat-loving favorite that also makes an excellent cover crop.
    • Globe Amaranth thrives in the heat with consistent watering. I like to harvest the flowers for cut flowers. I’ve planted them in my flower beds and throughout my garden beds to attract pollinators.
    • Cut back spent hollyhocks and save the seeds this month. Leave the roots in place.
    • Zinnias are a champion of Arizona gardening in July. Give them consistent moisture, and enjoy the lovely blooms! They are also excellent cut flowers.
    Zinnias growing up through trellis netting for cut flowers

    Which Flowers Might Be Blooming This Month:

    Angelonia, Bee Balm, Celosia, Coleus, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Desert Milkweed, Echinacea, Four O’Clock, Gaillardia, Gazania, Gomphrena, Lisianthus, Passionflowers, Portulaca, Ratibida, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Scabiosa, Shasta Daisy, Skyflower, Statice, Strawflowers, Sunflowers, Tithonia, Vanity Verbena, Vinca, Yarrow, Zinnia

    (click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each flower)

    Bee balm

    Flower Watering Guidelines:

    As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.


    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9BPerpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.


    10 Flowers that love the heat of summer - and how to grow them -FLOWERS FOR ARIZONA SUMMERS – WHEN AND WHAT TO PLANT10 Flowers that love the heat of summer - and how to grow them -FLOWERS FOR ARIZONA SUMMERS – WHEN AND WHAT TO PLANT

    Looking for more ideas for flowers that can take the heat of an Arizona summer? This article shares my favorite ones with tips for how to grow them. 


    Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July

    Figs
    • Fertilize blackberries with a balanced fertilizer
    • If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post. Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are the best times to do this. However, it is beneficial at any time of year and will not burn plants.
    • Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests.
    • Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
    • Anna’s apple harvests finish up this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
    • Monitor grapes and blackberries for harvest readiness. Cover to protect from birds if necessary.
    • Shade newly planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
    Grapes

    Citrus:

    • Citrus is developing on all the citrus trees throughout the yard. Last month, the trees self-thinned, and the fruit that is left on the tree is growing well. Citrus trees appreciate the monsoon rains and higher humidity this month.
    • Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.

    Fruit Watering Guidelines: 1, 2

    Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.

    • Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
    • Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
    • Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
    • Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days. 
    • Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
    Grapefruit in July

    Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July

    Mrs. Burn’s lemon basil
    • Lemongrass grows quickly in the heat.
    • Lightly harvest perennial Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano. Cutting back too much can be stressful.
    • Mint doesn’t look great over the summer. When temperatures moderate in the fall it will rebound.
    • Basil is the champion herb of summer. The more you harvest, the more it will grow. Use it and preserve it by freezing or freeze-drying.
    • Harvest seeds from bolting parsley, fennel, and dill.
    Bolted fennel

    Herb Watering Guidelines:

    • As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
    • Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
    • Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.

    Arizona Herb Planting Guide_ A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert HerbsArizona Herb Planting Guide_ A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Herbs

    Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.



    Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July

    Sparky Tecoma
    • Prepare for monsoon winds by staking any small trees requiring extra support and properly pruning trees and shrubs. If limbs or branches break, prune back to the main trunk if possible. Learn more about preparing for monsoons in this blog post.
    • Tecoma is in full bloom and doesn’t mind the heat. Hummingbirds and pollinators love it. This is an excellent addition to an Arizona garden landscape. 
    • Yellow Dot is a vigorous ground cover that grows rapidly in well-drained soil and can grow in full sun or shady areas. It looks great most of the year and provides a living mulch to trees in the summer heat.
    • Ornamental Sweet Potato Vine is a fast grower available in several colors. Lavish greenery and filler even in the hottest months. This vine is easy to start from cuttings; root in water first and then plant. It’s that simple. Regular watering keeps it lush. Learn more about how to grow sweet potato vine in this article.
    • July is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
    • If plants die, don’t replace them. Instead, look around at other plants in your neighborhood growing well for replacement ideas. For desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert. Wait to plant until the fall.
    • If stinknet sprouts in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread. If the flowers are dried and the plant is dead, remove it carefully— it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
    Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert
    • Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and July is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
    • If you are considering removing Bermuda grass, July is an excellent time. Learn more in this blog post.
    • Provide shade for new plantings (less than 1 year old) if they show signs of stress, and monitor the root ball to ensure it does not dry out. This blog post discusses different ways to provide shade.

    Landscape Watering Guidelines: 1

    • Water twice as long at least once. Plan one extra-long watering this month to flush the accumulated salt buildup deeper into the soil.
    • Desert-adapted trees, shrubs & vines every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 24-36″ trees / 18-24″ shrubs / 8-12″ vines).
    • High water use trees every 7-10 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
    • High water use shrubs every 5-7 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
    • High water use vines every 2-5 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).

    Arizona Garden in July Checklist:


    Which Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to Plant in the Low Desert in July

    After July 15 (or when monsoon season begins)

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

    Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant vegetables in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

    With 50 vegetables that grow well in Arizona’s low desert, you will surely find one to try. 

    Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert VegetablesVegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Vegetables

    Low Desert Arizona in July: Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors

    (Click the link for seed sources.)


    Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers


    Which Flowers to Plant in the Low Desert of Arizona in July

    Portulaca
    • Angelonia (T)
    • Cosmos (sulfur) (S)
    • Gomphrena* thru the 15th (T)
    • Purslane/Portulaca (ST)
    • Sunflower (S)
    • Vinca (T)
    • Zinnia (ST)

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9BPerpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.


    Low Desert Arizona in July: Flower seeds to start indoors

    (Click the link for seed sources.)



    Sources:

    1 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.

    2 – https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1151-2021%20%282%29.pdf


    If this post about low desert Arizona gardening during July was helpful, please share it:

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    Madison N.

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  • What To Do When Onions Bolt

    What To Do When Onions Bolt

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    Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.

    A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.

    What To Do When Onions Bolt

    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    What is bolting?

    Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk. 

    Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.

    What To Do When Onions BoltWhat To Do When Onions Bolt

    Why do onions bolt?

    An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them

    Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.

    For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds. 

    The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them

    What should I do when my onions bolt?

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them
    • Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below). 
    • Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later. 
    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them
    • Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
    • Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seeds to plant next season.


    How do I preserve bolted onions?

    Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.  

    Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them
    • Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder. 
    • Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
    Freeze drying onionsFreeze drying onions
    Onions going into the freeze dryer

    Freeze Drying Tips for BeginnersFreeze Drying Tips for Beginners

    What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?  

    You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future

    • Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
    • Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant. 
    • Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead. 

    How to Grow Onions - 10 Tips for Growing OnionsHow to Grow Onions - 10 Tips for Growing Onions

    If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.


    If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:

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    Angela Judd

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  • Do Taxpayer Subsidies Play a Role in the Obesity Epidemic?  | NutritionFacts.org

    Do Taxpayer Subsidies Play a Role in the Obesity Epidemic?  | NutritionFacts.org

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    Why are U.S. taxpayers giving billions of dollars to support the likes of the sugar and meat industries?

    The rise in calorie surplus sufficient to explain the obesity epidemic was less a change in food quantity than in food quality. Access to cheap, high-calorie, low-quality convenience foods exploded, and the federal government very much played a role in making this happen. U.S. taxpayers give billions of dollars in subsidies to prop up the likes of the sugar industry, the corn industry and its high-fructose syrup, and the production of soybeans, about half of which is processed into vegetable oil and the other half is used as cheap feed to help make dollar-menu meat. You can see a table of subsidy recipients below and at 0:49 in my video The Role of Taxpayer Subsidies in the Obesity Epidemic. Why do taxpayers give nearly a quarter of a billion dollars a year to the sorghum industry? When was the last time you sat down to some sorghum? It’s almost all fed to cattle and other livestock. “We have created a food price structure that favors relatively animal source foods, sweets, and fats”—animal products, sugars, and oils.

    The Farm Bill started out as an emergency measure during the Great Depression of the 1930s to protect small farmers but was weaponized by Big Ag into a cash cow with pork barrel politics—including said producers of beef and pork. From 1970 to 1994, global beef prices dropped by more than 60 percent. And, if it weren’t for taxpayers “sweetening the pot” with billions of dollars a year, high-fructose corn syrup would cost the soda industry about 12 percent more. Then we hand Big Soda billions more through the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), formerly known as the Food Stamps Program, to give sugary drinks to low-income individuals. Why is chicken so cheap? After one Farm Bill, corn and soy were subsidized below the cost of production for cheap animal fodder. We effectively handed the poultry and pork industries about $10 billion each. That’s not chicken feed—or rather, it is! 

    This is changing what we eat. 

    As you can see below and at 2:03 in my video, thanks in part to subsidies, dairy, meats, sweets, eggs, oils, and soda were all getting relatively cheaper compared to the overall consumer food price index as the obesity epidemic took off, whereas the relative cost of fresh fruits and vegetables doubled. This may help explain why, during about the same period, the percentage of Americans getting five servings of fruits and vegetables a day dropped from 42 percent to 26 percent. Why not just subsidize produce instead? Because that’s not where the money is. 

    “To understand what is shaping our foodscape today, it is important to understand the significance of differential profit.” Whole foods or minimally processed foods, such as canned beans or tomato paste, are what the food business refers to as “commodities.” They have such slim profit margins that “some are typically sold at or below cost, as ‘loss leaders,’ to attract customers to the store” in the hopes that they’ll also buy the “value-added” products. Some of the most profitable products for producers and vendors alike are the ultra-processed, fatty, sugary, and salty concoctions of artificially flavored, artificially colored, and artificially cheap ingredients—thanks to taxpayer subsidies. 

    Different foods reap different returns. Measured in “profit per square foot of selling space” in the supermarket, confectionaries like candy bars consistently rank among the most lucrative. The markups are the only healthy thing about them. Fried snacks like potato chips and corn chips are also highly profitable. PepsiCo’s subsidiary Frito-Lay brags that while its products represented only about 1 percent of total supermarket sales, they may account for more than 10 percent of operating profits for supermarkets and 40 percent of profit growth. 

    It’s no surprise, then, that the entire system is geared towards garbage. The rise in the calorie supply wasn’t just more food but a different kind of food. There’s a dumb dichotomy about the drivers of the obesity epidemic: Is it the sugar or the fat? They’re both highly subsidized, and they both took off. As you can see below and at 4:29 and 4:35 in my video, along with a significant rise in refined grain products that is difficult to quantify, the rise in obesity was accompanied by about a 20 percent increase in per capita pounds of added sugars and a 38 percent increase in added fats. 

     

    More than half of all calories consumed by most adults in the United States were found to originate from these subsidized foods, and they appear to be worse off for it. Those eating the most had significantly higher levels of chronic disease risk factors, including elevated cholesterol, inflammation, and body weight. 

    If it really were a government of, by, and for the people, we’d be subsidizing healthy foods, if anything, to make fruits and vegetables cheap or even free. Instead, our tax dollars are shoveled to the likes of the sugar industry or to livestock feed to make cheap, fast-food meat. 

    Speaking of sorghum, I had never had it before and it’s delicious! In fact, I wish I had discovered it before How Not to Diet was published. I now add sorghum and finger millet to my BROL bowl which used to just include purple barley groats, rye groats, oat groats, and black lentils, so the acronym has become an unpronounceable BROLMS. Anyway, sorghum is a great rice substitute for those who saw my rice and arsenic video series and were as convinced as I am that we need to diversify our grains. 

    We now turn to marketing. After all of the taxpayer-subsidized glut of calories in the market, the food industry had to find a way to get it into people’s mouths. So, next: The Role of Marketing in the Obesity Epidemic

    We’re about halfway through this series on the obesity epidemic. If you missed any so far, check out the related videos below.

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    Michael Greger M.D. FACLM

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  • What To Do When Onions Bolt

    What To Do When Onions Bolt

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    Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.

    A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.

    What To Do When Onions Bolt

    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    What is bolting?

    Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk. 

    Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.

    What To Do When Onions BoltWhat To Do When Onions Bolt

    Why do onions bolt?

    An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them

    Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.

    For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds. 

    The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them

    What should I do when my onions bolt?

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them
    • Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below). 
    • Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later. 
    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them
    • Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
    • Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seeds to plant next season.


    How do I preserve bolted onions?

    Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.  

    Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions

    Bolting or flowering onions and what to do about themBolting or flowering onions and what to do about them
    • Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder. 
    • Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
    Freeze drying onionsFreeze drying onions
    Onions going into the freeze dryer

    Freeze Drying Tips for BeginnersFreeze Drying Tips for Beginners

    What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?  

    You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future

    • Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
    • Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant. 
    • Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead. 

    How to Grow Onions - 10 Tips for Growing OnionsHow to Grow Onions - 10 Tips for Growing Onions

    If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.


    If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:

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    Julia Spears

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  • Vegetables to Plant in July for a Late Summer/Early Fall Harvest

    Vegetables to Plant in July for a Late Summer/Early Fall Harvest

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    You’ve pulled your neglected bolted lettuce and harvested your hardneck garlic. You have holes in your garden bed and it seems a waste not to fill them. But with what? July is a great time to sow the same vegetables you planted in the spring, so that you can enjoy a late summer and early fall harvest.

    But why plant what appear to be cool season vegetables in the middle of summer? Depending on your garden, planting these is actually a great idea!

    First step is to gather information: 1) the first frost date for your area and 2) the days to harvest (the seed packet of the vegetable you want to plant will have that info). Then count backwards from the frost date. If the plant has time to mature before first frost, it’s time to plant! Just keep in mind, the average frost date is just that, an average over many decades. It can be sooner or later and not a hard date on the calendar. Also, remember that some of what you plant may be frost-tolerant and can handle a bit of cold without any harm.

    So what can you plant now, in midsummer? We’ll break this down into groups.

    Roots

    Above: Photograph by Erin Boyle, from Field Guide: Carrots.

    Beets, carrots, and turnips can be planted midsummer for a fall harvest. The already warm soil gives these cooler weather vegetables a head start. Beets can be ready within as little as 40 days with the baby varieties, and nearly 60 days with the Bulls Blood variety. If growing carrots, remember to keep the soil consistently moist until they are established; the soil cannot dry out. Radishes can be succession sown monthly as they can be ready in as little as 30 days. Turnips, such as Hakurei, are ready in less than 40 days, whereas the traditional purple-topped variety can take about 50 days.

    Leaves

    Above: Photograph by Laura Silverman, from Gardening 101: Kale.

    If greens is what you’re looking to harvest, you’re in luck. Not only do you have a great variety to choose from, but there’s the added benefit of only needing to wait for enough leaves to harvest. There are many types of kale, which you can continue to harvest well into late fall and even winter depending on where you live. Collards also fall into this category but are even hardier than kale and tolerate temperatures in the 20s. Chard is not as hardy but still can survive a light frost.

    For spinach and lettuce, you’ll need a slightly different approach, since both tend to bolt in the heat. First choose slow bolting varieties if possible and plant them where they can get some relief from the summer sun—e.g., under your tomatoes, pole beans, or corn. Spinach is cold hardy, and if you have mild winters, you may be able to overwinter it. As for lettuce, consider the Chalupa or Monte Carlo varieties. They are both romaine types that can be sown in summer for an early fall harvest.

    Heads

    Above: Photograph by Kendra Wilson, from Gardening 101: Cabbage.

    More cool-weather suggestions here! Broccoli needs about two months to form heads, and cabbage shares the same cold tolerance as collards but needs up to three months to mature. Why not try Caraflex, an unusual small cone shaped variety that’s ready in 68 days. Brussel sprouts may require up to four months to mature. If you are planning to have sprouts for Thanksgiving, plant now. Cauliflower has a range of colors and days to maturities to choose from. The white Fujiyama can be ready to harvest in about 45 days, the orange Clementine is ready in about 55 days, and Purple Moon is ready in just over 60 days.

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  • This “Cowboy Candy” Is Guaranteed to Make You Legendary at Any Summer Cookout

    This “Cowboy Candy” Is Guaranteed to Make You Legendary at Any Summer Cookout

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    Rachel Perlmutter is a recipe developer, food stylist, and culinary producer at The Kitchn. Originally from Houston, Texas, she spends her free time trying to perfect kolaches and breakfast tacos that taste like home. Rachel currently lives in Brooklyn with her partner, dog, cat and rabbit, where they all share a love of seasonal local produce.

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    Rachel Perlmutter

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