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  • Chicago’s Pedestrianized Street Program Remains Trapped in Political Purgatory

    Chicago’s Pedestrianized Street Program Remains Trapped in Political Purgatory

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    In 2020, Chicago — like many other parts of the country — began pedestrianizing select streets to make room for outdoor dining. This was positioned as a lifeline to keep restaurants open while COVID-19 policies prohibited indoor dining.

    Former Mayor Lori Lightfoot pushed this outdoor dining program, which was clustered around several North Side neighborhoods like Lakeview, Gold Coast, and River North. The mayor’s office argued the program was a success and showcased the city, counteracting the negative conservative rhetoric that framed Chicago as unsafe. Supporters say pedestrianized streets give Chicago’s downtown a European feel and increased morale during the height of the pandemic; it was also an unorthodox move to help draw people back to Downtown Chicago.

    Urbanists hoped that the programs could stick around. Supporters including advocates for reducing car traffic hoped the outdoor dining program was the future. A restaurant owner inside Time Out Market Chicago, the food hall along Fulton, says sales were badly hurt last year when the city stopped allowing the food hall to set up seating on the street.

    Street parking is difficult in the West Loop and Fulton Market. Pedestrianized streets take away spaces and require the city to pay an impact fee to LAZ Parking, which operates and maintains the city’s parking meters. But that fee isn’t significant, according to one city hall source. The city made up more in exchange for the positive message outdoor dining can have on restaurants and customers.

    River North and its outdoor dining program along a three-block stretch on Clark Street between Grand Avenue and Kinzie Street has brought controversy. Block Club Chicago reported the conflict between 42nd Ward Ald. Brendan Reilly and Mayor Brandon Johnson. Reilly, whose constituents include restaurants like the Smith, Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill, and Havana Grill, blamed Johnson for nixing the program “on behalf of his allies in organized labor.” Reilly later left the door ajar for the program’s return by saying the program is under the mayor’s review.

    Reilly stated in a July 2023 newsletter to constituents that the program would not be renewed for 2024 after the October 2023 permit expired, despite the results from a survey shared in Reilly’s April 2023 newsletter showing that 80 percent of respondents favored closing the street.

    In May 2023, a group of alderpersons objected to former Mayor Lightfoot’s policy of automatic permit renewals, something Lightfoot’s office installed to speed up processes during the pandemic. In 2022, Reilly raised the issue of aldermanic privilege and opposed a permanent program that would shut down Clark. The city hall source says Reilly’s objections were rooted in his dislike of Lightfoot which superseded any attempt to quickly take action to allow restaurants to make the most out of Chicago’s short warm weather season: “He sank the vote for it,” the source says. Reilly would eventually support an ordinance that brought back outdoor dining after Johnson took office.

    Another city council source says alderpersons are well aware of how important the topic is to Reilly, who’s known to frequent Boss Bar, a late-night tavern that benefited from the street dining program. Because of that, they’re reluctant to speak out: “It’s sacred ground to him,” the source says.

    Reilly, who claimed on social media that the street closure was his idea, has forged strong ties with River North restaurants, which complicates matters further as opinions from restaurant owners have varied on whether they want the Clark Street program to return. Meanwhile, since the program’s inception in 2022, several neighborhood groups have sent letters to Lightfoot and Johnson’s offices objecting to closing down the streets. Grant DePorter, owner of Harry Caray’s, sent a letter in December 2022 detailing how the closure negatively impacted his business. DePorter adds that there are accessibility issues, as well. He mentions that 94-year-old Dutchie Caray, the wife of the restaurant’s namesake, has struggled to navigate the traffic. DePorter also mentions former Buffalo Bills head coach Marv Levy, a 98-year-old Chicago native, who also has had trouble getting to the restaurant while Clark has been closed.

    Bayless, the city’s most famous living chef — who posed with Mayor Johnson in March to celebrate the city’s proclamation of Rick Bayless Day last month — tells Eater that it’s a complicated topic because downtown businesses haven’t recovered from the pandemic. A lack of Mag Mile shoppers has also hurt River North restaurants.

    “Mix that up with the repairs on the Kennedy [Expressway] causing long travel times and the fact that people all around Chicago now say that it’s dangerous to come downtown, and you can see why those of us who are firmly planted in River North are looking for everything we can to boost business,” Bayless writes in a text.

    Bayless adds that Johnson believes restaurants will play a big role in reviving downtown.

    “Then why not close off the street and create a safe and vital atmosphere to draw people in?” the chef adds: “Will it hurt our business to have the street closed? Probably not much. Would it help our business? I can answer that with a resounding ‘yes.’”

    Others share Bayless’s opinion. More than 2,700 people have signed an online petition asking the mayor, Ald. Reilly, and Chicago Department of Transportation commissioner Tom Carney to bring back the program.

    On the other side is Sam Sanchez, a former chair of the Illinois Restaurant Association (one of his daughters, Korina, is a current board member). Sam Sanchez says the program should end. It was a pandemic lifeline whose time has come, he argues, stating that the program only benefits a handful of restaurants and gives them an unfair advantage while taking away business from other restaurants who have spent money building their own patios and licensed sidewalk patios.

    Sanchez doesn’t blame the restaurants along Clark Street that benefit as he says any owner would love additional capacity, but it’s not fair. He points out that Gold Coast restaurants around Mariano Park didn’t push for outdoor dining programs to continue after Springfield restored indoor dining. Restaurants like Gibsons and Tavern on Rush were examples of ethical businesses, ones that didn’t take advantage of government relief that was supposed to be only temporary, he says. Sanchez also mentions Pink Taco, a Mexican bar — part of a chain — that closed in July 2022 after four years in Chicago. Sanchez says restaurants west of Clark Street are hurt because of traffic jams the street closures caused and that Pink Taco, 431 N. Wells Street, was among those impacted.

    “We don’t need to shut down the streets when restaurants are hurting post-pandemic and are still trying to recover,” Sanchez says.

    He wonders how new businesses, like the upcoming Hawksmoor steakhouse at 500 N. LaSalle, will do if traffic is jammed up. When asked if it would be okay if the program returned for select weekends in River North — the program will return in Lakeview for two weekends, on June 7 and again on July 12 — Sanchez wasn’t moved.

    “We have street fests for this, we have Taste of River North for this — we have many festivals where people can enjoy the outdoors,” he says.

    As the arrival of spring teases Chicagoans, restaurants are preparing to squeeze every opportunity and dollar out of outdoor dining, and they await the city council’s final decision. Sanchez says the mayor has more important topics to worry about. In the end, the winner will be which side has the best lobbyists, he says.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • 38 Standout Dining Destinations in Chicago

    38 Standout Dining Destinations in Chicago

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    The casual bites at Lilac Tiger are worth seeking out.
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    Lilac Tiger

    Did you get a glimpse of the eclipse? Blink and you missed it — much like Chicago’s way-too-brief spring. All that means is folks need to make better plans to properly savor ramps and all the season has to offer. The Eater 38 is here to help.

    This collection of Chicago’s best restaurants provides answers to the classic question: “Where would you dine if you had one night in the city?” The list recognizes some all-time greats and restaurants that have pushed culinary boundaries. This list is for locals who want to make the most out of their nights. It’s also for visitors unfamiliar with the city.

    The spring update brings four new restaurants into the fold. There’s a South Side favorite that is once again getting the attention it deserves in Bridgeport. A daring bar with unique cocktails and a killer casual menu of South Asian bites including an incredible mushroom dish. In Lincoln Park, a tasting menu restaurant attempts to push back at consumer culture — if that’s even possible. And in the West Loop, a Korean couple runs an omakase restaurant with some of the best sushi in the city.

    It’s almost time to put away those heavy coats, Chicago. Enjoy.

    Have tips or suggestions for the Eater 38? Send them to the Chicago tipline. And head here for a guide to Chicago’s newer restaurants. For all the latest Chicago dining intel, subscribe to Eater Chicago’s newsletter.

    Read More

    Eater maps are curated by editors and aim to reflect a diversity of neighborhoods, cuisines, and prices. Learn more about our editorial process.

    If you buy something or book a reservation from an Eater link, Vox Media may earn a commission. See our ethics policy.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Smith & Wollensky Remains Closed After Weekend Fire in Downtown Chicago

    Smith & Wollensky Remains Closed After Weekend Fire in Downtown Chicago

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    The Chicago location of Smith & Wollensky remains closed after a small Friday, April 5 fire in the steakhouse’s kitchen. A firefighter was seen taken off in a stretcher. No customers or staff were hurt, according to the steakhouse.

    The cause of the fire remains under investigation. The steakhouse, via social media, apologized to customers and vowed for an update ASAP. Smith & Wollensky, a chain with 10 locations, opened its Chicago steakhouse in 1998, off the Chicago River in the Marina City complex.

    Marshmello fans lineup in front of Wiener Circle

    Before his Saturday performance at the Aragon Ballroom, Marshmallo, a DJ and electronic music producer, played a surprise set on top of the Wiener Circle — turntables were installed on the roof. Hundreds flooded toward the restaurant. No ketchup stains harmed the DJ’s glorious white visage.

    Chart-topping musician visits River North restaurant

    If music doesn’t work out for singer-songwriter Benson Boone, maybe working in a restaurant will.

    Boone, whose album — Fireworks & Rollerblades — released last week was in Chicago where he played two shows at the Salt Shed. In between the concerts, he joined a growing contingent of musicians who arrange to work at a restaurant for publicity. Pizzeria Portofino in River North was the venue of choice. While the Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises’ restaurant along the Chicago River isn’t exactly a magnet for Boone’s Tik Tok-obsessed fanbase, the singer still shared a pizza (topped with marinara, Italian sausage, red onions mozzarella cheese, artichoke hearts, and parmesan) he baked alongside Pizzeria Portofino’s Pizza Chef Jeff Smyl with guests. Boone’s single, “Beautiful Things,” has been No. 1 on global charts since mid-February.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Don Pablo’s, Uptown’s Chilean Empanada Stop, Is Closed

    Don Pablo’s, Uptown’s Chilean Empanada Stop, Is Closed

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    Don Pablo’s Kitchen & Bakeshop, a Chilean empanada shop so popular that it utilized Tock, the platform used by upscale restaurants like Alinea, to sell food, has closed in Uptown. Founder Pablo Soto tells Eater that’s he’s searching for a location in the suburbs.

    Don Pablo’s, named for Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet and activist Pablo Neruda, closed on December 31, just over a month before its second anniversary at 1007 W. Argyle Street. “Our lease was up and [we] decided not to renew,” Soto writes in a text message. “Uptown wasn’t the right place for us and we are working on moving to the North Shore.”

    Oddly, a move to suburban Chicago (Soto floated the possibility of Wilmette in an Instagram comment) would bring Don Pablo’s story full circle, as Soto and his wife, Julie Morrow-Soto, originally launched the bakeshop in May 2021 as a virtual operation in Glenview. They even intended to unveil a permanent location in Evanston until they discovered the space they’d chosen would need significantly more rehabilitation than anticipated. That turn of events brought the couple to Uptown, where they opened Don Pablo’s in February 2022 on Asia on Argyle, the neighborhood’s bustling Vietnamese-dominated corridor.

    Chicago’s hospitality scene isn’t short on empanada options plenty of top-notch renditions of regional varieties that hail from Colombia, Venezuela, Argentina, Belize, the Philippines, and beyond. After the 2012 closure of Rapa Nui in Irving Park, however, it became challenging to find Chilean empanadas in local restaurants. Chilean empanadas are larger and more rectangular than their South American peers, and both baked and fried versions are ubiquitous throughout the country.

    Stay tuned for news of Don Pablo’s new suburban location.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Goose Island Beer to Open Salt Shed Pub in May

    Goose Island Beer to Open Salt Shed Pub in May

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    Goose Island Beer Co. will open its newly relocated brewpub at the Salt Shed next month. Opening day will be Friday, May 3, according to a rep.

    In December, Goose Island closed its original brewery in Lincoln Park after 35 years. The development, near Clybourn and Sheffield, is set for redevelopment. The Salt Shed, less than a mile south of Goose Clybourn, is a music venue that opened in February 2023 near Elston Avenue and Division Street. It’s run by Bruce Finkelman and Craig Golden. They also run Chicago restaurant group 16” on Center, the company behind Revival Food Hall in the Loop, Thalia Hall in Pilsen, and Empty Bottle in Ukrainian Village.

    The newly dubbed Salt Shed Pub will feature beers including Bourbon County Stout, Beer Hug, and 312 on draft, as well as new offerings from head brewer Mike Jacobs. Food wise, executive chef Henry Pariser — studied under Thomas Keller at French Laundry — is bringing back holdovers from Clybourn including a smash burger, Bourbon County Stout milkshake, a smoked trout sandwich, and a burnt carrot sandwich.

    The alert describes the move to the Salt Shed as a way to deepen “Goose’s existing connection with the Chicago music scene.” It mentions events like Pitchfork Music Festival and Goose’s own 312 Block Party. The latter has been held outside its brewery’s Fulton Street taproom. Goose has also routinely held another event, Prop Day — its celebration of the barrel-aged beer, Bourbon County Stout — outside the taproom. The Salt Shed gives the brewery a new option, one that’s more tailored to hosting such events.

    Goose Island debuted in 1988 and was sold in 2011 to the parent company of Budweiser. At one point they expanded with brewpubs in Philadelphia (it closed in 2020) and London. A Wrigleyville location also closed in 2015. Folks may also stumble into a Goose-branded bars at various airports. While that expansion was occurring, the original lost its luster. There’s hope a move can restore the roar.

    Look for more information as opening day approaches.

    Goose Island Salt Shed Pub, 1357 N Elston Ave, scheduled for a Friday, May 3 opening

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Where to Find Solar Eclipse Specials in Chicago and Other April Pop-Ups

    Where to Find Solar Eclipse Specials in Chicago and Other April Pop-Ups

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    Millions of Americans, including Chicagoans, will have a chance on Wednesday, April 8, to see a total solar eclipse — a rare opportunity that won’t return for 21 years. The celestial phenomenons have a way of evoking strong feelings (and generating beaucoup bucks), so it’s not surprising that Chicago chefs are getting in on festivities around the so-called life-changing event.

    Meanwhile, there are plenty of other pop-ups to keep diners and chefs from descending into Third Winter doldrums. Follow along for a sampling of the best the city has to offer in Eater Chicago’s pop-up round-up.

    Have a pop-up that should be listed? Email information to chicago@eater.com.


    April

    River North: Tokyo Last Call, a month-long pop-up series inspired by Japanese listening bars, will kick off on Thursday, April 4 in partnership with Three Dots and a Dash and a lineup of guest bartenders from several acclaimed Japanese cocktail spots. These include Brooklyn’s Bar Goto (Thursday, April 4 through Sunday, April 7), Manhattan’s Katana Kitten (Thursday, April 11 through Sunday, April 14), as well as Tokyo’s Bar Trench (Thursday, April 18 through Sunday, April 21) and SG Club (Thursday, April 25 through Sunday, April 28). The Three Dots team will play vinyl 45s and play music from a “retro jukebox” on the bottom floor at 51 W. Hubbard Street. Tokyo Last Call, Thursday April 4 through Sunday, April 28 at Hub 51. Reservations via OpenTable.

    The Loop: It seems the whole city is talking about 2024’s Very Big Deal solar eclipse, so Downtown’s Raddison Blu Aqua Hotel is serving two specialty cocktails for the occasion. The team will offer the Sunbeam (mango-pineapple vodka, pomegranate, pineapple) and the Solar Flare (tequila, prosecco, grenadine, Cholula) Friday, April 5 through Sunday, April 14. The Sunbeam and the Solar Flare at Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel, Friday, April 5 through Sunday, April 14, 221 N. Columbus Drive.

    Total Eclipse of the Heart (Bacardi Ocho Rye Cask Rum, Rhum Clément Creole Shrubb, orgeat, lime, fire bitters, tajín).
    The Gwen

    The Loop: Astoria Cafe & Bakery, a suburban spot that specializes in Balkan food, is popping up off the Mag Mile at Venteux, the French restaurant inside the . The bakery had a location on Irving Park road that debuted in 2017, but it’s since closed and they’ve moved to Lisle. Owner by the mother-and-daughter duo of Suzi and Tanja Jeftenic, a news release states customers can expect items like krempita (a vanilla custard slice made with puff pastry & Chantilly cream), burek stuffed with cheese, spinach, or beef, and knedle, a potato dumpling made traditionally with plums, but also made with Nutella and fruit. Astoria Cafe at Venteux, 9 a.m. Sunday April 14 at Venteux.

    West Loop: San Francisco-based chef David Yoshimura of Michelin-starred Nisei will pop up for one night with acclaimed chef Noah Sandoval for a collaborative tasting menu on Saturday, April 6 at Sandoval’s fine dining restaurant Oriole. Tickets ($325) are already sold out, but optimistic diners can add their names to the waitlist. Oriole x Nisei, Saturday, April 6 at Oriole. Waitlist via Tock.

    Magnificent Mile: Downtown hotel terrace bar Upstairs at the Gwen is marking the solar eclipse with a punny Total Eclipse of The Heart cocktail (Bacardi Ocho Rye Cast Rum, Orgeat, Fire Bitters) available Saturday, April 6 through Monday, April 8. Total Eclipse of The Heart at Upstairs at the Gwen, Saturday, April 6 through Monday, April 8, 521 N. Rush Street, 5th Floor.

    Avondale: Minahasa, veteran chef John Avila’s (Duck Inn, Gibsons Italia) rambunctious regional Indonesian spot, will make its triumphant return on Monday, April 8 for Reader pop-up series Monday Night Foodball. More than a year has passed since Avila shuttered Minahasa’s stall at Revival Food Hall in the Loop, but he’s made good on his promise to return and continue honoring the vast diversity of Indonesian cuisine — particularly that of mountainous Tomohon, his mother Betty’s hometown. Avila’s Foodball menu will lean into “Indonesian American twists,” per Mike Sula, such as an Indo fried chicken sandwich (green papaya slaw, acar pickles) and beef rendang animal fries (sambal aioli, crispy shallots), along with Mama Betty’s beloved egg rolls. Minahasa x Monday Night Foodball at Ludlow Liquors, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday, April 8, 2959 N. California Avenue.

    Avondale: Lauded South Indian restaurant Thattu is planning two “once-in-a-blue-moon” specials for the eclipse: an egg appam with chili crisp, and a moon pie from chef de cuisine Danny Tervort. They’ll be available for one night only, from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Monday, April 8. Solar eclipse specials at Thattu, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday, April 8. Reservations via OpenTable.

    Logan Square: Chicago chefs Palita Sriratana (Pink Salt) and Chanita Schwartz will host a festive pop-up celebration for Songkran, or Thai New Year, on Tuesday, April 14 inside indie flower shop Exfolia Botanical, the duo announced on Instagram. Self-avowed prawn fans, Sriratana and Schwartz worked them into the seven-course menu with dishes like tod mun goong (prawns, coriander) and khanom jeen nam prik (prawn-infused curry, rice noodles, seasonal vegetables). Other courses include yum som o (grapefruit, lemongrass, coconut, cashews) and gai haw bai toey (pandan leaf-wrapped chicken, sweet sesame sauce). Tickets ($120) and more details are available via Eventbrite. Songkran Thai New Year, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday, April 14 at Exfolia Botanical. Tickets via Eventbrite.

    East Garfield Park: Virtual Lao mega-hit Laos to Your House will host its second annual Lao Pi Mai, or Lao New Year, a family-friendly celebration with an abundant buffet-style spread from 2:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. on Saturday, April 13 at hospitality business incubator the Hatchery, according to co-founder Byron Gully. The team promises a vast array of dishes including spicy khao poon moo, chicken and vegetarian laap (or larb), crispy kanom dok bua (lotus flower cookies), Lao barbecue, and much more, as well as cocktails and beer. Attendees can also shop for retail items like Lao textiles, beauty products, and packaged goods. Tickets ($50) and more details are available online until Tuesday, April 9. Laos to Your House Lao Pi Mai celebration at the Hatchery, 2:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday, April 13, 135 N. Kedzie Avenue. Reservations via Laos to Your House.

    Rolling Meadows: Chicago chefs including Yuka Funakoshi (Tengokyu Aburiya), Takashi Iida (Lawrence Fish Market), Paul Virant (Gaijin, Petite Vie), and Shinji Sugiura (Ramen House Shinchan), will host a Japanese and French kaiseki-style dinner on Monday, April 22 in suburban Rolling Meadows. A fundraiser to support survivors of a New Year’s Day earthquake on Japan’s Noto Peninsula, the event will feature Chicago Koto Group and local J-pop music group Orihana, as well as a six-course meal that includes tare-marinated salmon with French lentils and seafood terrine with yuzu kosho jelly. Reservations ($125) are available online until Monday, April 15. Together for Noto Japan: Disaster Relief Fundraising Dinner at LaMirage Banquet Hall, Monday, April 22, 3223 Algonquin Road in Rolling Meadows. Reservations via Google Form.

    May

    Bridgeport: Chef and owner Won Kim of raucous Korean restaurant Kimski isn’t wasting any time in preparing for its eight-year anniversary party on Saturday, May 11, announcing a “stacked” lineup of food vendors and DJs around two months ahead of time. Attendees can expect food from Seoul Taco, Pizza Friendly Pizza, Pretty Cool Ice Cream, Omarcitos, and more (plus a few surprise entries), as well as drinks from Bronzeville Winery, Maria’s, and Standard Meadery. “Come eat, drink, celebrate and help kick summer off the proper Bridgeport way!” Kim writes on Instagram. Kimski Eight Year Anniversary Party, 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday, May 11 at Kimski.

    954-960 West 31st Street, , IL 60608
    (773) 823-7336

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Lincoln Square Taproom’s Owner to Open a Bistro in the Cafe Selmarie Space

    Lincoln Square Taproom’s Owner to Open a Bistro in the Cafe Selmarie Space

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    As Chicagoans prepare to say farewell to Cafe Selmarie, a cozy Lincoln Square favorite that’s preparing to close after more than four decades, news about its forthcoming replacement is beginning to surface.

    Andrew Pillman, the owner of neighboring beer bar Lincoln Square Taproom, has applied for a liquor license under the business name Willow Cafe and Bistro at 4729 N. Lincoln Avenue. The restaurant is Pillman’s second takeover of a Lincoln Square institution, as in 2021 he opened the taproom in the former home of Huettenbar, one of the area’s last-remaining German taverns. In 2021, he opened a sister bar, Uptown Taproom. Pillman also runs Lakeview Taproom, which opened in July 2020. In November 2023, the space rebranded to add a coffee component.

    In the case of Huttenbar, back in 2021, Pillman told Block Club that he intended to preserve the dive’s German charm. However, regulars say Pillman and his crews drastically changed the bar’s vibe including replacing a mural that helped define the space.

    Cafe Selmarie owner Birgit Kobayashi announced her plans to retire and close Cafe Selmarie in September 2023 but has yet to share a closing date. The restaurant will remain open “through at least the end of April,” according to its website.

    Pillman and Kobayashi did not respond to requests for comment.

    A Lincoln Square pillar since Kobayashi and her late business partner Jean Uzdawanis founded it in 1983, Selmarie (a portmanteau of its founders’ middle names, Birgit Selma and Jeanne Marie) oversaw a transformation in the area from its perch on Giddings Plaza. It was home to the first espresso machine in the neighborhood and quickly garnered a following for its comfortable atmosphere, fresh baked goods made on-site, and an all-day lineup of soups, salads, sandwiches, and pasta. In 2017, Kobayashi became Selmarie’s sole proprietor following Uzdawanis’ death at age 63 after a battle with ovarian cancer.

    While few additional details about Willow Cafe and Bistro are available as yet, Pillman seems primed for a busy year. He’s applied for a liquor license for another beer bar, Rogers Park Taproom & Coffee House, at 1615 W. Howard Street. The space previously housed indie coffeehouse Sol Cafe and in February, Pillman told Block Club Chicago that he aims to compensate for the cafe’s closure by serving Hexe Coffee alongside beer, cocktails, breakfast, and lunch.

    Stay tuned for more on Cafe Selmarie’s closing date and more details on Willow Cafe and Bistro.

    Willow Cafe and Bistro, 4729 N. Lincoln Avenue, Opening date is not yet available.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Will Cannabis-Infused Cocktails Spark Buzz in Illinois?

    Will Cannabis-Infused Cocktails Spark Buzz in Illinois?

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    On a Thursday evening in January, an intimate group of people gathered at Zin’s Flower Shop’s event space in Pilsen for a hands-on lesson in crafting two nonalcoholic drinks with Up Elevated Cocktails. Hosted by Carlos Ramos, this was the second iteration of a class dubbed “High and Dry January,” which seeks to educate people in the making of cannabis-infused mocktails.

    During the instruction, Ramos, who’s imbued with the gift of gab, explains the properties of various cannabinoids, terpenes, and their effects, while also providing a mini consultation to establish an understanding of each participant’s tolerance level. Up Elevated cocktails are typically dosed between 5 and 7 milligrams for the average customer. Together, the group mixed up the Moment of Zen — a drink made with pineapple juice, matcha powder, aquafaba, coconut milk, and THC-infused Zen Green Tea from California brand Uncle Arnie’s — and a play on a hot buttered rum, featuring butter-based gummies infused with THC.

    Whether someone is sober curious, totally dry, or partaking in the “California sober” lifestyle (i.e. abstaining from booze while consuming cannabis), there’s a piqued interest these days in alternatives to alcohol. Consumers want to opt out of drinking without compromising the overall social experience. That’s prompted companies such as Marz Community Brewing in Bridgeport and Hopewell Brewing in Logan Square to churn out ready-to-sip canned CBD or hopped spritzes.

    But Up Elevated is taking a different approach.

    These are essential marijuana-infused mocktails.

    Founded in 2020 by Ramos, the same year that recreational cannabis consumption became legal in Illinois, Up Elevated’s mobile mixology service takes modern mocktails to new heights by trading alcoholic spirits for cannabis-infused, water-soluble products — such as Cann bubbly tonics or Artet botanical aperitifs and spritzes — that come with an additional dose of education and awareness. Cannabinoid infusions differ based on state law. Illinois prohibits companies from mixing THC with alcohol, but they can use hemp and delta-8 or delta-10.

    “We’re not mixing marijuana and alcohol, so it’s an infused mocktail,” Ramos says, though he shares that the company offers regular bar service as well.

    A man smoking a cigarette in one hand and holding a drink in another while sitting on a plush chair.

    Carlos Ramos and Up Elevated regularly hold events.

    Ramos’s classes, which began in 2023, speak to trends in consumption among younger folks. Researchers in studies conducted by Drexel University, the University of Southern California, and the University of Washington found that there was a decrease in alcohol consumption among young adults living in states that legalized recreational cannabis. In August 2023, a Gallup poll found that 52 percent of young adults responded that they worried about the long-term effects of consuming alcohol — a 34 percent increase from five years ago. A large body of research has linked alcohol consumption to a heightened risk of developing certain cancers.

    During January’s canna-mocktail class, participants Ariah, 25, and Taliya, 23 (who asked to withhold last names due to privacy concerns), shared that alcohol has rarely been a factor in their social lives — a decision they deem a less harmful option.

    “We’ve noticed what alcohol has done, we know the history, and it’s not pretty,” Ariah says. “Being intoxicated is literally hurting your body. There’s a naturalness to cannabis or even shrooms — there’s an evident, natural benefit to it.”

    A bartender with a long spoon preparing a cocktail.

    In Illinois, bartenders can use cannabis in drinks as long as they don’t have alcohol.

    “‘Intentional’ is a big word with our generation,” Taliya adds. “People are talking about it on social media. We don’t see the hype [around alcohol]. We’re very conscious of what we want to put in our bodies, from food to things like this [cannabis cocktail class]. Education goes a long way and having fun, social events where you can also learn is a nice way to go about it.”

    Ramos still primarily runs bar services himself but collaborates with a team of talented friends for larger pop-ups and social media content. He takes his mission to destigmatize cannabis and normalize its presence in beverages seriously. While Ramos admits that people get cross-faded (the term for being high and drunk), he’s not encouraging that behavior on Up Elevated’s watch.

    “I don’t see a world where mixing alcohol and cannabis in one beverage makes sense,” Ramos says, noting his goal is to normalize cannabis as an alternative to alcohol and set a “standard for responsible service and consumption of these beverages.”

    Cocktail tongs holding a marijuana leaf-shaped infusion.

    Up Elevated doesn’t take itself too seriousl.

    A former beer distributor for companies such as Lagunitas Brewing Company, Ramos was working in sales and marketing as a Chicago area rep for 18th Street Brewery in Hammond and Gary, Indiana, at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. When he lost his job, he saw it as an opportunity to launch Up Elevated as a mobile mixology service in August 2020 — doing small pop-ups at socially-distanced, outdoor markets and private events as folks slowly restarted in-person activities. He, like many people during that time, had begun more deeply assessing his relationship to his habits, particularly drinking alcohol.

    “I try to live an active lifestyle and I realized the days where alcohol consumption was part of my job weren’t really aligning with my lifestyle anymore,” Ramos says. “I was never big on alcohol, but I was socially drinking, and selling beer was my job, being a little drunk a couple nights a week. I didn’t like the feeling, I really didn’t like feeling hungover, and COVID was a deciding factor [in drinking] for a lot of people.”

    Developing the concept and menus for Up Elevated steadied his focus while inspiring other avenues of cannabis-friendly social activations, including run club Runners High Chicago, yoga classes, and a chess club — disrupting the “lonely, lazy stoner” stereotype. Finding a new path in the community feels like the bet on himself is paying off. Last year, Up Elevated hosted events in six states, including California, Michigan, Massachusetts, and Colorado, and appeared at MJ Biz Con — the nation’s largest marijuana and cannabis conference and expo, held in Las Vegas. It also participated in January’s Chicago’s No I.D. alcohol-free cocktail competition and tasting event at Artifact Events.

    A jar of green dust.

    A stencil of a marijuana leaf placed on top of a glass.

    “I’d had the idea since 2018 after I’d worked a couple events with the Herbal Notes collective and seeing how chef Manny [Mendoza] brought to life the beautiful culinary experience for cannabis, I wanted to create that mixology equivalent, because I didn’t see that,” Ramos says. “I didn’t see beautiful cannabis cocktails — if anything, there were alcoholic cocktails still being served at weed events. Even still, now, it’s the landscape where it’s a weed event, but it’s at a bar, you have to buy from their bar. I saw the niche for this.”

    He adds, “Another theme of Up Elevated is believing that people who don’t consume alcohol should have better choices than juice, water, or soda. A lot of times, when you go to a bar or somewhere and you sit down and say you’re not drinking alcohol, that kind of ends your service experience. We give just as awesome of an experience if you want to drink alcohol, cannabis, or neither.”

    Ramos describes his use of cannabis and THC-infused products as similar to using bitters or carbonated mixers as opposed to making them the hero ingredient. It’s what drew one of his newest supporters, the aforementioned Uncle Arnie’s.

    Uncle Arnie’s has plans to join the Chicago market later this year. Founder Ave Miller stumbled upon Up Elevated’s Instagram profile in 2023 and connected with the hope that Ramos’s creativity would inspire consumers to reconsider their cannabis experience. Miller says “most people aren’t even educated” about cannabis beverages, placing Up Elevated at the leading edge of an emerging market: “Most edibles are usually way too high-cost or not as effective because most people are fooled by the 500 milligram Laffy Taffy bar,” Miller says. “Liquid beverages are a really great way to introduce high-dose people to recreational markets. Because of the water-soluble technology and increased bioavailability, 100 milligrams really feels like 150 milligrams because of how your body processes it.”

    While making sure the community has space to gather, create, and indulge — it’s never solely been about getting high. Working toward complete legalization of cannabis (the plant) and advocating for more equitable access to resources for Black and Brown, small, craft growers and brands — those most impacted by this country’s war on drugs — is of equal importance. Ramos knows this first-hand, having been arrested in 2007 for selling on Purdue University’s campus in West Lafayette, Indiana, when he was a sophomore. For 12 years, Ramos had felony convictions on his record, which made finding a corporate job nearly impossible. That led him to the craft beer industry, where his honesty about his background wasn’t a detriment.

    A member of the newly founded Illinois Cannabis Consumption Association, Ramos and like-minded individuals are also coming together to address and promote efforts around the legality of on-premise cannabis consumption and the minted “cannabis hospitality industry.” While there are legal, onsite consumption lounges in Illinois in towns such as Wheeling and Mundelein, Chicago doesn’t permit consumption outside of private properties or licensed dispensaries, and public consumption remains illegal.

    “Chicago is likely gonna make it difficult and costly to do these things,” Ramos explains. “Most of the events that happen around cannabis are technically unsanctioned. For me and my events, we try to keep things as compliant as possible. Some safeguards are 21-and-over, private, ticketed or members only, no direct sales of the plant itself. I’ve cultivated relationships with alderpeople who would like to see day permits for cannabis events, as they realize they are happening and want to mitigate involvement of law enforcement for a plant that’s supposed to be legal in Illinois. It makes no sense that we can buy cannabis, but can’t consume it without being in fear of the law.”

    Arms going into a bucket.

    In 2021, he connected via LinkedIn with Steven Philpott Jr., a former Marine and current biology PhD student at North Carolina State University who studies crop and soil sciences with a focus on cannabis, and the two started collaborating and building the education and justice element of Up Elevated Cocktails. With a background in sports medicine and coaching, Philpott became an advocate for cannabis for stress and pain management on a personal level before doing so professionally.

    “There’s 120 to 200 kinds of cannabinoids that exist. We only really talk about THC, but all the other ones have health benefits too,” Philpott says. “That’s what me and Carlos do. Cannabis is not just THC.”

    Philpott sees an opportunity through Up Elevated to spread awareness about alternatives to alcohol and smoking cannabis. He says it should be viewed as a supplement purchased at a vitamin store. “As I get older, I’m like, ‘I would love to find another way to consume.’ So when I saw Carlos making drinks, I thought he might be onto something.”

    Discussing cannabis in its fullest terms also helps the two get around legality concerns when Up Elevated Cocktails pops up in states that have yet to embrace recreational or medical use. Philpott joined Ramos at this year’s South by Southwest music festival for an activation dubbed “Sound Bites” on March 9, which combined music, cannabis, and education in a state that’s long opposed legalization but where hemp-derived products like delta-8 have flourished.

    A man in an apron with holding a measuring jig.

    Ramos has high hopes for his operation.

    Ramos chose to use “non-THC, minor cannabinoids” during his trip to Texas. “Hemp-derived is legal in all 50 states. We can still give the education, the experience with music and drinks … [and] be within the parameters of what we need to be in that state.”

    Looking ahead, Ramos hopes Up Elevated Cocktails can serve as a bridge between casual consumption and real-world implications of lingering, federal cannabis restrictions for those who still haven’t been able to gain a stronger foothold in the now-corporate, regulated industry; this would help foster a deeper sense of community where success is available to those who’ve paid a higher price for being on the cultural frontlines for decades.

    “There’s no shortage of weed parties, but I don’t see a whole lot of well-rounded programming really building community, which is what we’re trying to come into our own and do,” he says.

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    Jessi Roti

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  • Guenther Steiner on F1 in the States, Being a Team Principal, and Starring in ‘DTS’

    Guenther Steiner on F1 in the States, Being a Team Principal, and Starring in ‘DTS’

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    Meg is joined by former team principal and Netflix star Guenther Steiner to discuss his new role as ambassador of the Miami Grand Prix and how Formula One is incorporating the American audience in the sport. Then, they hit on Steiner’s Drive to Survive stardom, talk about his friendships on the grid, get into his approach as team principal, and then wrap things up with quick season predictions.

    Host: Megan Schuster
    Guest: Guenther Steiner
    Producer: Erika Cervantes

    Subscribe: Spotify

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    Megan Schuster

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  • ‘Readvent of Calamity’ quest walkthrough in Dragon’s Dogma 2

    ‘Readvent of Calamity’ quest walkthrough in Dragon’s Dogma 2

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    “Readvent of Calamity” is a quest you’ll pick up in Dragon’s Dogma 2 the first time you return to Melve. It involves driving off a diseased drake (which is a dragon as opposed to the Dragon), helping out Ulrika, the leader of Melve, and then finding her when she has to leave town.

    Our Dragon’s Dogma 2 will show you how to start “Readvent of Calamity,” the steps you’ll have to follow to complete it, and where to find Ulrika.


    How to start ‘Readvent of Calamity’ in Dragon’s Dogma 2

    Image: Capcom via Polygon

    Once you complete at least one of Captain Brant’s quests (but before you complete “Feast of Deception”) and then head back to Melve (like for the “Oxcart Courier” quest), you’ll find the town under attack by a diseased dragon (or drake — the game is inconsistent on the name). After you deal a bit of damage by attacking the blisters on Puss the Magic Dragon, you’ll drive it off.


    When to visit Melve ‘from time to time’ in Dragon’s Dogma 2

    After the fight, you’ll get a quick cutscene where you talk to Ulrika, Lennart, and Sigurd. And then you’ll get an unhelpfully vague objective to “visit Melve from time to time.”

    You need to wait a day or three before you can continue the quest. Head out of town and take care of other quests for a bit. You can always fast travel to Melve quickly from Vernworth by using the oxcart.

    Dragon’s Dogma 2 map of Melve showing where to find Ulrika

    Graphic: Jeffrey Parkin/Polygon | Sources: Capcom via Polygon

    On your subsequent visit, check in with Ulrika at the large house in Melve. Inside, you’ll witness Ulrika and a government goon named Martin having an argument. The next day, you’ll learn that Ulrika has chosen to flee the village instead of cause problems for everyone.


    Where to find Ulrika in ‘Readvent of Calamity’

    Your next objective will be to figure out where Ulrika fled to. And you won’t have any clues. The short answer here is that Ulrika has fled to Havre Village.

    Dragon’s Dogma 2 map showing the location of Havre Village

    Graphic: Jeffrey Parkin/Polygon | Sources: Capcom via Polygon

    The longer answer is that she won’t (might not?) actually appear there until you complete a couple other quests.

    First, you’ll have to have completed “Monster Culling” for Captain Brant (which you probably already have). After that, you should poke around Harve Village to take on and complete “Scaly Invaders” which ultimately just has you driving out some saurians a few days in a row.

    Dragon’s Dogma 2 Lennart at the end of Readvent of Calamity

    Image: Capcom via Polygon

    After that, Ulrika will appear right at the town’s main crossroad. Talk to her, and she’ll send you back to Lennart in Melve. Report back to him in Melve’s big house, and you’ll get a reward of 4,500 gold and a Ring of Grit.


    For more Dragon’s Dogma 2 walkthroughs, here’s the best order for Captain Brant’s quests, plus how to rescue the caged magistrate, how to reach the Nameless Village, where to find Rodge, how to confront the Arisen’s shadow, and when to attend the coronation.

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    Jeffrey Parkin

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  • Where to Find the Best Smash Burgers in Chicago

    Where to Find the Best Smash Burgers in Chicago

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    While this submission isn’t officially labeled a smash burger, the team at J.T.’s delivers each Darn Good Burger (lettuce, onion, pickle, American cheese, dijonaise) and J.T.’s Special Burger (caramelized onions, cheddar, Granny Smith apple, bacon, dijonaise) with a delightfully griddled texture that satisfies all those smash burger cravings.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Blommer to Close Chicago Chocolate Factory After 85 Years

    Blommer to Close Chicago Chocolate Factory After 85 Years

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    After more than eight decades, Blommer Chocolate is closing its factory at the end of May. The factory opened in 1939, and while chocolate connoisseurs can’t find Blommer by its name on store shelves, the factory makes confections for some of the country’s more popular brands. But for most Chicagoans, especially ones close to downtown Chicago and neighborhoods like West Loop, River West, and West Town near the factory, locals remained enamored due to the random aroma of chocolate wafting from the building into surrounding neighborhoods.

    The Sun-Times reports the closure at 600 W. Kinzie Street will cost 250 jobs. The headquarters will remain in Chicago at the Merchandise Mart. In a news release, Blommer mentions a shift in operations. They’re opening a research and development center this fall at the Mart. A Blommer rep didn’t respond to a request for comment.

    Chocolate making can be a thorny subject, where foreign farmers are often exploited. Despite its place as a civic institution, Blommer hasn’t escaped controversy over the years. In 2005, the EPA cited the factory for alleged clean-air violations due to smells coming out of the building. The federal agency responded to an anonymous complaint and argued the cocoa dust wafting from the factory was pollution.

    One of the city’s best Korean restaurants, Perilla Korean American Fare, stands across the street from the factory. Co-owner Thomas Oh tells Eater that he often uses Blommer as a landmark. Customers might not be familiar with the intersection of Kinzie and Milwaukee, but they instantly know the factory. Before Blommer closed its store in 2020, staff would often stop in to purchase chocolate-covered almonds and other treats.

    Oh did recall a quirky episode immediately after Perilla opened in 2019 when a customer complained on Yelp about the chocolate smell on their way to the restaurant: “How does that have to do with anything we are providing you?” Oh says with a laugh.

    There’s no word on what will happen to the 5.5-acre site. Oh says he hopes for a new development that will bring more potential customers to the area.

    Chicago, where a baseball stadium is named after the founder of a chewing gum company, is often called “the candy capital of the universe.” The National Confectioners Association was founded 140 years ago in Chicago. But that title might be in jeopardy after Blommer’s shutter. As is the custom, Chicagoans often will add an extra “s” at the end of the company’s name. It’s “Blommers” in the same tradition of “The Jewels” and “Soldiers Field.”

    A worker at Mars’ Goose Island campus hard at work.
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Earlier this year, Mars opened a new global research and development hub on its Goose Island campus. This is where experimental M&M’s flavors and Snickers test bars are made. The $42 million wing will allow for more experiments, and hopefully more variety on store shelves.

    Blommer says it’s investing $100 million in other production facilities in Pennsylvania, California; and Ontario, Canada. Fuji Oil Holdings, a Japanese company, bought Blommers in 2018 and they closed down the factory store in 2020. They’re the No. 1 cocoa processor in North America, according to Crain’s, which broke the story.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • ‘The Caged Magistrate’ quest walkthrough in Dragon’s Dogma 2

    ‘The Caged Magistrate’ quest walkthrough in Dragon’s Dogma 2

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    “The Caged Magistrate” is one of several quests you receive from Captain Brant in the early stages of Dragon’s Dogma 2. Brant tells you about one Magistrate Waldahr, someone who has stood his ground against Disa and refused to change the Code of Vermund to her benefit when asked, leading to him now sitting in a cell in Vernworth jail — ahem, gaol.

    So Captain Brant has one very simple request of you: set Magistrate Waldahr free. He’ll give you a gaol key so you can let yourself into his cell, but you’ll find that Waldahr needs some convincing first.

    In this Dragon’s Dogma 2 guide, we’ll walk through the entire “Caged Magistrate” quest, including where to find Magistrate Waldahr and how to set him free.


    Where to find the Magistrate in Dragon’s Dogma 2

    Image: Capcom via Polygon

    Enter the palace grounds and head to the objective marked on your map. This is the entrance to Vernworth Castle Gaol Tower. Otto will greet you and allow you through, so make your way downstairs and aside from a couple of rooms to explore and loot, the main area here is the long corridor with pillars in the middle and cells on each side, for a grand total of eight.

    Magistrate Waldahr is in the first cell on the right-hand side, as soon as you enter. Wait until the two guards are facing away from you then use the Gaol Key given to you by Captain Brant to unlock the cell.

    Head in and talk to Waldahr, then when the option arises, urge him to escape. He explains that he’s perfectly happy in the cell because he can spend his days “perusing the Code and deciphering old texts.” However, if you can find “a place with a mountain of tomes,” Waldahr will reconsider escaping. Leave the gaol and return to Captain Brant.


    Where to find ‘a place with a mountain of tomes’ in ‘The Caged Magistrate’

    A Dragon’s Dogma 2 hero talks to the magistrate in jail in “The Caged Magistrate” quest.

    Image: Capcom via Polygon

    Brant suggests talking to a chap named Kendrick, found by The Gracious Hand in the slums. He’s a balding chap wearing a blue robe, wandering around the tents and dilapidated houses on the outskirts of Vernworth. He’ll ask you for a charitable donation of gold, so pay up and he’ll explain a local boy named Malcolm has gone missing.

    This starts an entirely separate quest named “The Heel of History,” where you must find Malcolm by speaking to the children of the slums. Look for a girl called Aimee who will be somewhere nearby and she’ll tell you Malcolm went into the vaults underneath the slums. Return to Kendrick and the pair of you will enter the vaults to find the runaway kid.

    A Dragon’s Dogma 2 hero walks into a library underground in “The Caged Magistrate.”

    Image: Capcom via Polygon

    Explore the vaults in their entirety and you’ll find Malcolm, followed by a huge underground library. Kendrick makes Malcolm promise to keep his mouth shut about the discovery, but you can return to Waldahr in the gaol and tell him about this wonderful place where he can study in peace. Escort Waldahr out of his cell and to the slums, then return to Captain Brant for your reward: 7,000 gold and a ferrystone.

    Make sure you also return to Waldahr in the vaults a few days later, as he’ll have another quest for you: “A Magisterial Amenity,” which involves finding his confiscated spectacles.


    For more Dragon’s Dogma 2 walkthroughs, here’s who to give the Jadeite Orb to, if you should buy the Ornate Box, how to buy a house in Vernworth, where to find Rodge, and the best order for Captain Brant’s quests.

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    Ford James

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  • Unpacking the Mind-Bending Virtual Reality Game in ‘3 Body Problem’

    Unpacking the Mind-Bending Virtual Reality Game in ‘3 Body Problem’

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    Big surprise: 3 Body Problem, Netflix’s new show based on a trilogy of sci-fi novels that regularly deal with advanced quantum science theories, doesn’t offer a lot in terms of easy answers. Why did Vera Ye kill herself? What do people see when those shaky countdowns get to zero? And who, really, are the incoming aliens known as the San-Ti (Chinese for “three-body [people]”)?

    Many of the answers to the latter question revolve around a virtual reality game encased in a sleek chrome headset that resembles something Apple would sell for several thousand dollars. Early in Episode 1, Jin Cheng (Jess Hong) is given one of these devices on a visit to Ye Wenjie (Rosalind Chao), the mother of Jin’s recently deceased friend Vera. Wenjie claims Vera was gaming regularly in the weeks before her death, which piques Jin’s interest since her particle physicist friend would never deign to carve out time for video games.

    Headset affixed, Jin finds herself in a hyperrealistic desert landscape. The words “Level One” echo loudly. The headset is able to affect every sense, not just seeing and hearing, effectively transporting her mind to a new plane of being. Jin marvels as the wind ripples the traditional garb she’s been outfitted in, smiles and squints as a massive sun rises over a stately pyramid, and screams in terror when the wind picks up, revealing a desiccated, still-alive humanoid figure buried at her feet. I’m not a big fan of tutorial levels, either.

    Eventually, one of Jin’s friends, snack magnate Jack Rooney (John Bradley), gets his hands on her headset. But his experience playing the game is even more bonkers. When Jack first puts on Jin’s device, which was evidently intended just for her, a woman (Sea Shimooka) appears behind him and sternly observes, “You were not invited,” before cutting him down with a sword. The same thing happens when another friend, Auggie (Eiza González), tries to play. The San-Ti want only a select few people to use their tech. But with time, Jack finally makes the cut. A shiny headset of his own comes with a card that reads: “We invite you to play.”

    Initially, the VR portions of 3 Body Problem do resemble some kind of incredibly immersive game. Putting on the headset and engaging with the AI once again, Jin meets a suave NPC, the Count of the West, and another simply referred to as Follower, a young girl Jin immediately takes a shine to. The Count welcomes Jin to “Civilization 137” and tells her that this world has “chaotic” and “stable” eras. She must deduce whether an era is chaotic or stable, and if she’s wrong, the civilization is destroyed.

    As in any good game, you need a big end-of-level boss. Here in Level One, it’s Emperor Zhou—a real-life tyrant king from about 3,000 years ago. The Count, desperate to appease the emperor, tells Zhou that he can use divination to predict the next stable era, which just so happens to be in eight days and will last 63 years. Jin, a trained scientist rather than a mystic, disagrees with the Count’s assessment. But Zhou is on board with the Count’s prediction and dismisses Jin’s interjections about “the laws of physics: everything we know to be true about the world.”

    “Which world?” he asks her.

    The emperor moves forward with the Count’s plea to “awaken your dynasty and let it prosper.” But that decision quickly proves to be misguided, as Zhou’s civilization is completely obliterated by a massive ice storm. Nevertheless, Jin’s foresight in choosing science over mysticism results in her passing Level One. Several doomed civilizations later, Jin and Jack solve Level Two together: This world is part of, get this, a three-body star system, moving unpredictably between the gravity of three suns, causing constant ecological disasters and apocalypses. Throughout the “game,” they’re tasked with explaining complex modern physics to NPCs who are based on important figures in Earth’s history and whose temperaments range from “unimpressed” to “cartoonishly hostile.” And I mean cartoonishly. At one point, Kublai Khan tries to boil Jin and Jack in a big pot, which is something Wile E. Coyote would attempt. A series of comedic cameos adds to the heightened reality and playfulness of these scenes compared to the rest of the show, like when League of Gentlemen alum and Sherlock cocreator Mark Gatiss—in character as Isaac Newton—spits at Jin to “shut the fuck up, troll!” after she questions his (very cool) human-powered binary computer. The San-Ti are at least hip to a bit of gamer lingo, then.

    It’s a fascinating way to tell the San-Ti’s story, which becomes clearer and clearer with each progressing level. This game is not a puzzle; the three-body problem is unsolvable. Any species existing within such an unstable star system will always face eradication, eventually. It’s a demonstration by the San-Ti that they have no choice but to abandon their planet and find a new home.

    Jin and Jack are invited to Level Four, which, as it turns out, is basically an initiation. Donning the headsets one more time, they are greeted by the game’s “guide,” that mysterious woman with a sword. “There is only one solution when your world is doomed,” the woman says. “Flee,” Jin whispers in response. And so, after 9,478 total civilizations have been built, destroyed, and rebuilt, the San-Ti are accepting an invitation to Earth that—surprise—Ye Wenjie extended to them at the end of Episode 2. Wenjie, exasperated with the cruelty she experienced at the hands of her fellow human beings during the Cultural Revolution, believes the San-Ti could save humanity—even if, and perhaps explicitly because, the San-Ti warned Wenjie that her “world will be conquered” if she responded to the their messages sent decades before Jin’s VR excursions.

    Jack and Jin, as “Level Four champions,” are invited into a sect of humanity that’s led by Wenjie and is preparing to welcome the San-Ti, whom they call “Our Lord.” The game is designed not only to literalize the history of the San-Ti, but to select players who will be sympathetic and malleable to the San-Ti’s own ends. “Your cingulate cortex [an area of the brain commonly associated with emotion and empathy] activity was the highest we’ve ever recorded,” true believer Tatiana (Marlo Kelly) tells Jin.

    Inside the careful and occasionally humorous craftsmanship of the games, there are more hints to be gleaned about the nature of the San-Ti. First—and this is the one that’ll stick in most people’s minds—they have the ability to “dehydrate” themselves, essentially pausing all biological functions and flattening into a rolled-up canvas so that they can preserve themselves during the chaotic eras of their home world. When a stable era arrives, any surviving, hydrated San-Ti toss them into pools of water and they come back to life, like those compressed hand towels that start out looking like tiny pills that you sometimes get at Chinese restaurants. Though the San-Ti civilizations are based on human ones in the game, they clearly have a very different biology. “We don’t look anything like this,” the sword woman tells Jin and Thomas Wade (Liam Cunningham) in a final demonstration later on. When asked what they do look like, she calmly tells Wade he “wouldn’t like it.”

    More troublingly, the game’s design betrays the implication of the San-Ti’s authority over humanity. In each level, Jin and Jack are presenting their ideas to some of the most powerful and notably violent figures in history. This is not the San-Ti asking for help; they’re already on their way. This is them explaining how things will work once they arrive.

    By the season’s end, there’s still a lot about the headsets that remains mysterious. Why did the San-Ti, a species that takes things very literally (to the point that they’re incapable of lying or understanding the concept of a fairy tale), construct such a narratively complex fable to highlight their perspective? They clearly know the broad mechanics of a video game, but not Little Red Riding Hood?

    In the end, though, another useful purpose for the headsets emerges: outright threats. The woman with the sword is an avatar for the Sophons: four 11-dimensional supercomputers folded back into the size of a proton (seriously, don’t think too hard about this) and quantum entangled with one another on the San-Ti fleet, allowing for instantaneous communication even though they’re 400 years from reaching Earth. The Sophons can be anywhere, see and hear anything, cause mass hallucinations, and even disrupt the laws of physics, slowing down humanity’s scientific progress so that it’ll be less able to defend itself when the San-Ti arrive. They’re omnipresent gremlins designed to drive everyone employed at the United Nations insane, basically.

    By the end of the first season, humanity’s relationship with its alien counterpart, the San-Ti, has already deteriorated to the extent that they publicly announce their intention to conquer Earth. As 3 Body Problem’s first season progresses and Earth and the San-Ti fleet morph from uneasy allies into all-out belligerents, the headsets become less prominent in the story. There’s only so much you can do to recruit more pro-San-Ti influencers after you’ve called all of humanity “BUGS” on an LED display in Piccadilly Circus. But, curiously, Tatiana herself receives a headset at the end of Season 1, even though she was already all in on the San-Ti cause. “If one survives, we all survive,” the card included with her device reads. Expect to see some different tricks from the headset when Season 2 inevitably drops. For the rest of those who received them, the San-Ti’s message is clear: Play ball and help, or die with Earth Civilization no. 1.

    Tom Philip is a Scottish writer based in Brooklyn, New York. He’s written about entertainment and culture for GQ, Vulture, and The New York Times and contributed some truly awful jokes for the likes of ClickHole, The New Yorker, and CollegeHumor. You can yell at him on X here: @tommphilip.

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    Tom Philip

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  • Where to Eat Italian Food in Chicago

    Where to Eat Italian Food in Chicago

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    Tre Dita focuses on lesser-known cities in Tuscany. | Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Carbs and Chianti galore

    If there’s one thing most people can agree on, it’s that a hearty plate of pasta is always a good choice. Heavy with Italian tradition, Chicago is home to some of the country’s best red sauce restaurants. From timeless classics, such as spaghetti and meatballs and chicken Vesuvio, to contemporary offerings featuring fancy ingredients like truffles, there’s a lot of variety to be had. Some spots have histories that span decades while others are relative newcomers. But the one thing they all have in common: Cooking that’ll make nonna proud.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • The Juice List: The Most Powerful People in Hollywood

    The Juice List: The Most Powerful People in Hollywood

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    Matt is joined by Bloomberg’s Lucas Shaw to craft The Town’s first ever Hollywood Power List: their definitive (and subjective!) ranking of who has the most “juice” a.k.a. the most influential figures in the entertainment business. Matt and Lucas debate who deserves to be in the top 10, who doesn’t, whether an actor will break the top 10, and who currently deserves the coveted top spot.

    For a 20 percent discount on Matt’s Hollywood insider newsletter, What I’m Hearing …, click here.

    Email us your thoughts! thetown@spotify.com

    Host: Matt Belloni
    Guest: Lucas Shaw
    Producer: Craig Horlbeck and Jessie Lopez
    Theme Song: Devon Renaldo

    Subscribe: Spotify

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    Matthew Belloni

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  • A Neighborhood Favorite Makes a Splashy River North Entrance

    A Neighborhood Favorite Makes a Splashy River North Entrance

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    There’s a splashy new edition to the River North restaurant scene on the ground floor of a 971-foot skyscraper next to the neighborhood’s hulking Whole Foods. Local group Ballyhoo Hospitality has brought its neighborhood staple, Gemini, closer to downtown with the debut of Gemini Grill at One Chicago at 748 N. State Street.

    Designed by prolific local firm Siren Betty, its first-floor space houses a lengthy racetrack bar for dining and drinking, as well as a dining room populated with clamshell booths. It’s divided into sections to create a cozier atmosphere and lined with windows that fill the space with natural light. Ballyhood opened its original Gemini-branded restaurant in 2009 in Lincoln Park, then called Gemini Bistro. They remodeled in 2017 and truncated the name. Fans of the Lincoln Park restaurant are known to rave about its dog-friendly patio, so Gemini Grill will follow suit with an outdoor courtyard where pooches are welcome.

    Blackened grouper sandwich (tartar sauce, pickles, shredded lettuce).
    Gemini Grill

    A plate of tuna crudo.

    Bigeye tuna crudo (pickled wild blueberry, leche de tigre, fennel pollen).
    Gemini Grill

    The wood-paneled second floor, designed to evoke the style of a members-only club, is primarily devoted to private events with a bar and views of Holy Name Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church that dates back to the 1870s. Given the restaurant’s proximity to the soaring structure, just a two-minute walk away, it’s easy to imagine families booking the event space to celebrate marriages, baptisms, and confirmations.

    Gemini Grill’s menu also bears many of the hallmarks of the Lincoln Park restaurant with a focus on familiar American dishes with some modern tweaks. The opening lunch menu is stacked with crowd-pleasers like Greek Panzanella salad (Persian cucumber, cherry tomato, dill, focaccia, spicy feta), Korean fried chicken sandwiches (black garlic aioli, green papaya slaw), and hanger steak frites with chimichurri. There’s also a kids menu, replete with cheesy carbs, and the team plans to soon add brunch and dinner service.

    Founded in 2009 by Chicago restaurateur Ryan O’Donnell, Ballyhoo has grown significantly in recent years. After earning a cadre of fans at Gemini, O’Donnell went on to open Italian spot Coda di Volpe in Lakeview and Mexican restaurant Old Pueblo Cantina in Lincoln Park. The group significantly ramped up in the early years of the pandemic, launching five suburban Chicago restaurants between 2020 and 2023. Last year, the group unveiled DeNuccis, a red sauce Italian spot in the former Four Farthings Tavern & Grill in Lincoln Park.

    Another restaurant is planned on a third-floor space at One Chicago. It’s ticketed for another operator. David Pisor’s Etta Collective was once involved, but the building’s owners have since severed ties after the company’s financial woes.

    Gemini Grill, 748 N. State Street, Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Reservations via Resy.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • ‘The Bear’ Could Be Filming Seasons 3 and 4 Back to Back in Chicago

    ‘The Bear’ Could Be Filming Seasons 3 and 4 Back to Back in Chicago

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    As Chicagoans attempt to track The Bear with Season 3 production underway in various locations around town, including Randolph Restaurant Row, reports have emerged that the show has already been green-lit for Season 4.

    There’s speculation that Seasons 3 and 4 are being filmed back to back with episodes for Season 4 already in production. Some have also called Season 4 the show’s final season. In the wonderful world of television, nothing is ever a certainty and FX hasn’t confirmed any of this.

    Show creator Christopher Storer, a Park Ridge native, reportedly has a long list of projects necessitating an endgame to Carmy, Sydney, and Richie’s antics. Similarly, actors Jeremy Allen White, Ayo Edebiri, and Ebon Moss-Bachrach are entertaining more opportunities. It’s come a long way since the 2022 James Beard Awards in Chicago where White attended and was easily approachable. His stock, along with his co-stars’, has soared since then.

    Season 3 should debut in June on Hulu.

    Atelier and Christian Hunter Make Moves

    Back in January, Christian Hunter, the chef at Michelin-starred Atelier in Lincoln Square, posted a diner menu on Instagram (since deleted), and that prompted folks to think that the James Beard-nominated chef was on the cusp of opening a second restaurant. Hunter would tell Eater in January that this was a dream, to open a diner that would pay homage to his mother’s (Angela Laverne) Cincinnati roots. Yes, that meant chili loaded with noodles and cheese. He also mentioned Coney Dogs, burgers, chicken sandwiches, and veggie options. Fine dining was great, but Hunter wanted to open a more affordable restaurant and was working with Atelier founder Tim Lacey on fleshing out the concept. In late February, Atelier announced that Hunter was now a co-owner and that they had promoted Bradyn Kawcak from chef de cuisine to executive chef to give Hunter room to pursue new projects as a bonafide restaurant group. Kawcak had worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago like Band of Bohemia, Entente, and Elizabeth. As far as the diner is concerned, Lacey and Hunter are searching for spaces with hopes of opening something by the end of the year.

    River North nightclub owner faces felony drug charges

    The 43-year-old owner of Spybar, a River North nightclub, has been arrested and faces felony drug trafficking charges for allegedly attempting to smuggle 14 pounds worth of ketamine and about 5.8 grams of ecstasy through O’Hare International Airport.

    Cook County prosecutors claim Dino Gardiakos tried to bring the illegal drugs through airport security as he arrived from London with the intent to sell them. Gardiakos had already been placed on probation for felony drug charges. He now faces a battery of charges including trafficking of a controlled substance and possession of a controlled substance. He’s been released on pre-trial conditions after appearing in court on Thursday.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Where to Eat in the West Loop

    Where to Eat in the West Loop

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    The West Loop may be Chicago’s most polarizing dining neighborhood. Randolph Restaurant Row is still considered one of the city’s most prestigious strips with restaurants past and present like Red Light, Girl & the Goat, and Belly Q, but lately the young and too hip have targeted the dining district, peppering it with insults.

    McDonald’s built its headquarters on Randolph Street and real estate developers fight for political influence. A group of restaurant owners are pushing for a privatized security force. So it’s not hard to see why these criticisms exist. But the neighborhood, which includes Greektown, is more than a branding showcase and developer’s playground. Come check out some of Eater’s favorites. And just remember: Restaurants do exist in places other than Randolph Street. Note: restaurants considered in Fulton Market were omitted.

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    Eater maps are curated by editors and aim to reflect a diversity of neighborhoods, cuisines, and prices. Learn more about our editorial process.

    If you buy something or book a reservation from an Eater link, Vox Media may earn a commission. See our ethics policy.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • An All-Day Filipino Restaurant Is Coming to Jefferson Park

    An All-Day Filipino Restaurant Is Coming to Jefferson Park

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    Chicago’s Northwest Side Filipino community is robust and isn’t about to be shut out of the city’s Filipino American restaurant boom. Seafood City isn’t enough. Kathy Vega Hardy is readying to open her first standalone restaurant in early April in Jefferson Park. In August, closed her popular Filipino food stall, A Taste of the Philippines, inside Chicago’s French Market as she prepared to launch an independent operation.

    For this particular project at 5914 W. Lawrence Avenue, “independent” isn’t entirely accurate. Vega Hardy is partnering with another Filipino business, Crumbs and Cookies, a bakery that’s best known for sylvana, a cookie stuffed with flavored creams. Spouses Katrina and Mharloe Requiron founded their operation after the pandemic began in 2020. They’re splitting the space with Vega Hardy.

    Twenty-eight seat A Taste of the Philippines will serve a few desserts, such as their signature ube doughnut and turon (a sweet lumpia with ube drizzle), but the two businesses believe they complement each other with Vega Hardy offering mostly savory items like lumpia and pancit. Without a permanent home, Vega Hardy has been using the space at Schoolhouse Kitchen in Portage Park to cook food for her catering business which also includes pop-up dinners.

    Ube doughnuts and cheesecake bites.
    A Taste of the Philippines

    Chicago’s food scene includes prime-time players like Bayan Ko and Boonies Filipino Restaurant, plus a little Michelin-starred success story called Kasama. Mano Modern Cafe opened last year in West Town. Vega Hardy says her food fills a specific niche.

    “I wouldn’t call it upscale, but it’s not fast food either,” she says. “I feel I’m in the sweet middle ground.”

    Vega Hardy’s story has been well told around Chicago. She’s a Manila native who lived in Denver where she started A Taste of the Philippines as a food truck in 2012. As is the case with many Asian families arriving in America, few recipes are actually written down. Immigrant food in the States often tastes different because of guesswork in reformulating a recipe (there’s also a difference in ingredients that leads to changes). Vega Hardy has worked toward preserving Filipino culture while putting her own spins on items. But, as chefs who cook international cuisines can attest, it’s sometimes exhausting trying to sell food to folks unfamiliar with other people’s cultures. Food can be educational (Vega Hardy also teaches at Schoolhouse Kitchen), but it can be daunting: “I really thought I was the only Filipino person there,” she says of her time in Denver.

    When she moved to Chicago, she gained a following selling food at farmer’s markets before opening in the French Market in summer 2020. Even at the market, she sometimes got anxious having to explain her evolving menu to passersby who were strolling through the food hall browsing menu boards.

    An egg sandwich on pan de sal and a purple ube drink in a plastic cup.

    Egg sandwiches and specialty coffee are served.
    A Taste of the Philippines

    The commute from the Northwest Side to the West Loop was brutal, especially with construction on the Kennedy Expressway. Vega Hardy won’t have to contend with that headache as she’s a Jefferson Park resident. She’ll also have more room to be creative and productive (on an average day of lumpia making she can roll about 150; the number will now increase at the restaurant). Vega Hardy touts a vegetarian adobo made with local vendor Four Star Mushrooms. Now, fans of that Kasama operation might be familiar with their dish which was featured in some cookbook and also in a Chicago-based TV show called The Bear. Adobo can be a personal thing that varies depending on family preferences. Vega Hardy’s is a little bit more saucy. She talks about how the gravy properly coats the rice.

    A Taste of the Philippines will also serve breakfast with silog, sandwiches, and more. Longanisa — which will be used in a Scotch egg — will be made on premises. Imagine pan de sal with a fried egg and havarti cheese. The full espresso bar will have fun drinks with coffee from Veloria Coffee, another Filipino American business.

    Check back for more updates in the coming weeks.

    A Taste of the Philippines, 5914 W. Lawrence Avenue, opening in early April.

    5033 N Elston Ave, Chicago, IL 60630
    (773) 295-1658

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    Ashok Selvam

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