In the introduction to her epic new book, Visionary; Gardens and Landscapes for our Future, photographer Clare Takacs admits that in 2021 she set out to shoot only 30 to 40 gardens across the Mediterranean for the book. Instead the project, co-created with landscape architect Giacomo Guzzon, turned into an odyssey of sorts, with almost 80 gardens shot from Carmel Valley, California, to The Dandenongs in Australia, close to where she grew up.
The book showcases the way that garden design is attempting to keep pace with climate change and how it can respond to or mitigate the effects of prolonged drought, record-breaking temperatures, flooding, and extreme rainfall on our gardens. It’s a sumptuous survey of resilient garden design right now; the results are inspiring and thought-provoking, and illustrate how nature can thrive even in the most hostile environments.
Below, a peek at just a few of the magnificent gardens featured.
Above: In the Toledo garden, in Talavera de la Reina, Spain, designer Fernando Martos uses a limited palette and an understated approach to link this garden to the wider landscape. Enclosed by a curving dry stone wall, the garden features large boulders dotted around low-rise buildings and a farmhouse. The planting includes species that can cope with the exceptionally harsh environment including Euphorbia seguieriana, Stachys byzantina, Achillea tomentosa, Phlomis viscosa, and prostrate rosemary, as well as light-catching grasses including Sesleria ‘Greenlee’ and Stipa gigantea. Above: A guesthouse on an old estate in the north of Ibiza is entirely enclosed in terraced gardens with stone terraces matching the house and gravel walkways, and neat Mediterranean plantings of prostrate rosemary, ballota, achillea, Helichrysum orientale and Santolina chamaecyparissus.
Above: James Basson’s work in the south of France, where his landscape business is based, is well-known for its often trail-blazing response to climate change and reassessment of what garden design can be. His drought-tolerant plantings are more in keeping with the wild landscapes of the region. In this early project there are olive and cypress trees, clipped shrubs including rosemary, bupleurum and teucrium along with the intense blue flowers of pervoskia.
Above: The terraced gardens of The Rooster in Antiparos, Greece, meld into the landscape with native planting, fig and olive trees, along with Juniperus oxycedrus, Bougainvillea spectabilis as well as Sarcopoterium spinosum, a native species reintroduced by local nurseries. Above: A series of roof gardens designed by Piet Oudolf in collaboration with Tom de Witte, surround a private house south of Amsterdam. Plants including Allium tanguticum ‘Summer Beauty’, Amsonia hubrichtii, Calamintha nepeta, Eryngium bourgatii, Limonium platyphyllum, lavandula, Salvia yangii (syn. Perovskia atriplicifolia), Sesleria autumnalis, sporobolus, echinacea, Teucrium x lucidrys, agastache, Origanum laevigatum, Salvia sclarea, Sedum matrona,Stipa tirsa, Stachys byzantina and Festuca mairei are planted into six inches of free-draining substrate.
This is part of a series with Perfect Earth Project, a nonprofit dedicated to toxic-free, nature-based gardening, on how you can be more sustainable in your landscapes at home.
“A garden needs a heartbeat,” says Leslie Needham, founder of her eponymous design firm in Bedford, NY. And Needham will be the first to admit that her former English-style garden—tightly clipped hedges, filled with plants originating from around the world—didn’t quite have one. “It was pretty stagnant,” she says. But when she looked down at the Mianus River Gorge, a protected stretch of land filled with native plants that abuts her property, she saw a flourish of birds, animals, insects. It thrummed with activity—it had a heartbeat.
Working with Andrea Spunberg, a senior designer at her firm, who was also one of Needham’s first landscape design students when she taught at the New York Botanical Garden, she began incorporating native plants into existing beds, converting areas of lawn into meadow and letting plants grow more freely and openly. Soon phloxes and asters courted butterflies and bees. Shrubs like bayberry and Fothergilla provided shelter for wildlife. And grasses and sedges, like little bluestem and carex, offered four season beauty.
Her new design philosophy focuses on “blurring the edges horticulturally to provide a connection, as Doug Tallamy encourages, to the natural landscape around us,” she says. “There’s a comfort that comes when a planting is correct for its environment,” says Needham. “It just feels of a place.” Spunberg agrees, “It feels alive.”
Below, Needham and Spunberg share eight ways to make your garden spring into life.
Photography of Leslie Needham Design.
1. Embrace the vernacular.
Above: Leslie and Andrea stand in front of Needham’s greenhouse. The two do extensive research of the native flora for each project, reading extensively, walking in local parks to see what’s growing and where, and studying the conditions of the property before coming up with a plant palette.
“Architecturally, I understood how a house needs to fit into its setting. It was built in a certain style for a certain reason to a certain scale,” says Needham. “But then I realized, there’s a vernacular in the landscape too and you get it through native plants. I now think of genius loci: what is the spirit of this place and how do you get it?” For Spunberg, who grew up in Hungary, conserving natural resources by gardening with native plants was part of her upbringing. When she moved to the states, she brought this sustainable approach with her, gravitating to native plants in her designs out of resourcefulness but also because she is totally smitten with them. “Wildflowers are so much joy,” she says. “I love the understated beauty, the life they bring, and the connection to the wilder landscape.”
In San Francisco’s often foggy, dune-filled Outer Sunset neighborhood, landscape design firm Talc Studio transformed a small “sand pit” into a lush and characterful garden. While the garden is equal parts custom and artful, there are a number of design details and useful sources to glean. Here we detail our favorite components. Materials Furniture & […]
David: Filter or weed fabric is an entire industry that, if I could, I would delete with the push of a button. Weeds go through it, it’s plastic, you always see it (and it’s ugly), and it impairs the ability of insects or worms to move through soil horizons, and that seems incredibly unkind.
Dawn: Impervious surfaces in general! We should really stop pouring concrete.
Old wives’ tale gardening trick that actually works:
Dawn: I talk and sing to my plants at home, and they’re happy.
Diego: Love your plants!
Favorite gardening hack:
Dawn: Sticking my finger in the soil seems to answer a lot of my client’s questions.
David: I love that answer, Dawn! I have a bathtub in my garden and I use it to water my Sycamore Trees (which like a bit of water). Feels like a solid hack to me.
Diego: Hire Carmen Orozco of Barranca Landscape. Everything comes out beautifully.
Every garden needs a…
Diego: A low-tech water fountain for birds and insects.
Dawn: A birdbath!
David: Well, I don’t want to ruin this, so I will also say birdbath, but it’s true—inviting wildlife into your garden is the ultimate baller move.
Favorite hardscaping material:
Dawn: Reclaimed brick! The classics never go out of style.
Diego: Urbanite (broken concrete). We’re increasingly trying to use recycled materials in our projects and urbanite transcends aesthetic worlds in a really cool way. We’re trying to learn how to build mostly native, spiritually Japanese gardens out of trash—that’s one of the present goals of the office.
Go-to gardening outfit:
Above: Terremoto’s Flap Hat is $43 at Plant Material.
Dawn: My old Terremoto shirt.
David: I have a flap hat that protects my red neck from getting even redder, and when I put it on and put glasses on, I go into GARDEN BEAST MODE.
On your wishlist:
Dawn: Owning a fucking house someday hopefully.
David: A small cabin in the woods next to a creek. Ideally with no cell reception.
Favorite nursery, plant shop, or seed company:
Above: Plant Material is the retail arm of Terremoto. Photograph by Caitlin Atkinson, courtesy of Terremoto.
David: Absolutely shameless plug alert, but Plant Material! It’s our Los Angeles nursery with three shops and an ecological point of view. And, of course, shout out to Theodore Payne and Artemisia Nursery. It’s a big city and we’re trying to push it in an environmentally positive direction together, which is lovely.
Dawn: N-K Bonsai Tree Nursery.
Diego: Plant Material!
David: Hey, Diego, you’re getting a raise—awesome answer!
Not-to-be-missed public garden/park/botanical garden:
Diego: Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s house in Mexico City.
David: California Scenario shreds. The Test Plots in Elysian Park (and everywhere) are a constant source of joy for me.
The REAL reason you garden:
Dawn: Mental health!
David: Yeah, kinda also mental health and well-being.
Diego: Community and bonding, with co-workers and soil.
Thank you, David, Dawn, and Diego! If you want to see what the team is up to, follow them @terremoto_landscape.
So you’re finally ready to plant up an area of your garden. How do you ensure you’re giving your plants the best possible start? In part 5 of my series on making A Garden from Scratch (scroll to the bottom for the other installments), I look at one border in my own garden and explain how I prepared it and put it together.
1. Get the timing right.
Above: What I started with. This was a tired lavender walk that needed a lot of plants replaced and was interspersed with climbing roses. I wanted a more substantial border as this was also a key view through the garden, so I removed everything except for the established ‘Blush Noisette’ rose on the right-hand side of the border.
Autumn and spring are perfect times to get a border planted, giving plants a chance to settle and send out roots when soil is likely to be warm and moist. Because I am nearly always running behind, the new border here would eventually go into the ground in early May. It’s not ideal timing as they need a lot more attention and irrigation if there is prolonged hot weather, but in reality it’s feasible to plant perennials at any time the ground is not frozen—just be prepared to keep an eye on them in summer.
Make sure you have all your plants gathered, ready for planting. If you are buying plants and want to keep costs down, know that 9-cm plants will be the most economical, while 1-liter or 2-liter plants will provide more instant impact. That said, those small plants will have caught up with the larger plants within one season and definitely within two seasons. If you’ve got time, growing some of the plants from seeds or cuttings will be the most economical of all. You can also divide plants from elsewhere in the garden, too, creating more plants for free. (See Your First Garden: How to Start a Garden for Practically Free for other ideas.)
2. Enrich the soil.
Above: Preparing the planting area.
I widened the existing border as much as I could while still leaving a path through the middle. At this point it can feel like there’s a lot of space, but once plants mature and grow over the edges this central path will narrow considerably. As this area has poor very free-draining soil, I dug in well-rotted manure through the whole border to prepare it for planting; whatever your soil type, the most beneficial thing you can do at the outset is to add as much compost as you can to enrich the soil.
3. Lay out the plants.
Above: Laying out the plants.
Place all of your plants along the border where you think you’ll want to plant them. Then spend some time considering how the plants will look as they grow. Think about how wide they will spread and allow enough space for plants to grow (check the plant label for approximate dimensions). Group perennials together in threes or loose triangles which will create more impact with blocks and color. What you are trying to create is a naturalistic feeling rather than regimented order. (See A Garden from Scratch: How to Choose Plants and Put Them Together for my tips on plant composition.)
Repeat some plants through the length of the border to help create rhythm. In this border, Alchemilla mollis, Geranium ‘Rozanne’ and Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foester’ are repeated down the length of the bed. And leave space for self seeders—over time, if you prefer a more naturalistic look and you’re happy to encourage self-seeders, your border will fill out with these volunteer plants. This border has several self-seeders, especially Salvia turkestanica, Digitalis parviflora and D. ferruginea gigantea, and occasionally Baptisia australis and Alchemilla mollis, creating free plants and a more abundant and lush border.
Every time we come across an edible landscape designed by Oakland-based Leslie Bennett, we are struck by the magic and beauty she brings to something as practical as a kitchen garden. She recently wrote an entire book on how she does it (Garden Wonderland hit bookstores this month). And today, she’s pulling back the curtain a little more on what inspires her work.
How did a former attorney specializing in cultural property, landscape preservation, and land use law come to actually work with the land? “Learning how to grow food was life-changing for me,” says the Bay Area native, who apprenticed at organic and biodynamic farms for three years before starting Pine House Edible Gardens. “I’ve been figuring out how to design beautiful, productive landscapes ever since, partly by trial and error, and partly through collaboration with the really talented and skilled group of designers, landscape architects, and farmers who have been a part of my team for the last decade-plus.”
Below, she reveals her “half pruning” method for longer blooms in the garden, her secret weapon for warding off slugs, and her favorite hardscaping material (that also happens to be cheap and child-friendly).
Photography by Rachel Weill for Garden Wonderland, unless otherwise noted.
Above: “I love my work and my journey toward doing it, as it’s not at all what I expected I would do, but I’m so happy to have landed here,” says Leslie. Photograph by Daniel Shipp for Georgina Reid’s The Planthunter: Truth, Beauty, Chaos and Plants.
Your first garden memory:
I remember often being in our family’s suburban backyard when I was growing up. My brother and I were enthralled with the snails that lived on the big citrus trees and we decided to start a snail farm. We set up a big box, filled it with leaves and fruit from the orange trees, and plucked all the snails off the plants and put them in the box, where we kept them alive and fed for at least a few days! We thought it was the coolest thing ever and made my parents take photos of us with our new pets. Now a snail farm sounds so gross to me and makes me laugh. But of course, my two young kids now love observing the snails that live in our backyard and they have their own little bug boxes set up—I’m happy knowing that our family garden is nurturing their sense of curiosity and wonder about life and nature.
Describe in three words your garden aesthetic.
Above: Leslie’s Oakland backyard.
My garden aesthetic is personal, eclectic, and maximalist. I love layers!!
Garden-related book you return to time and again:
My new garden design book, Garden Wonderland, of course! Truly, I am in the phase right now where I look through it all the time and remember fondly the entire process of making it.
Instagram account that inspires you:
@justinablakeney really inspires me. I relate to her so much as a fellow mixed race Black woman, mother, and designer. I love her interior design aesthetic, which, like mine, tends toward personal expression, plants, layers, and maximalism. I also love seeing how she’s developed her authentic voice on social media, has grown her identity as an artist, and has been able to orient toward overall wellness. These are all areas I’m working on, too, and that I appreciate her modeling so authentically.
Plant that makes you swoon:
Above: Ligularia gigantea.
This changes every year or so, but right now I’ll go with Ligularia gigantea. The broad, glossy green foliage texture makes everything around it look incredible, so my team and I use it in designs whenever we can.
Favorite go-to plant:
Culinary bay. Another one with glossy broad green foliage that is so easy to grow in a pot or in the landscape, is great for cooking, and has so many healing properties, too.
Unpopular gardening opinion:
Above: Pine House Edible Gardens is known for designing vegetable gardens that feature both beauty and bounty.
According to Wong, rewilding your land means rethinking how we garden and seeing ourselves as stewards of the land. Instead of trying to tame the land, Wong listens to it and works with what nature has already set into motion, encouraging plants that she wants to keep, and editing out ones that are highly invasive or otherwise undesired.
Blur the boundaries.
Above: Beyond what Wong affectionately deems the “weed lawn” are her vegetable and foraging beds, and beyond that a dry meadow and eventually the forest edge.
Looking out on Wong’s garden, it’s hard to tell where the garden ends and the wilderness begins–and that is intentional. “Instead of creating boundaries between wild and not wild, I like letting plants merge next to each other. I don’t need to impose hard lines demarking my garden, whether by hardscape, mulching, plastic weed control, or chemical eradication,” writes Wong of her approach to gardening.
But mark some edges.
While Wong lets the borders between her yard and the wild area get fuzzy, she purposefully marks boundaries around patches of wild plants that she wishes to keep. “Outlining these spaces can give a tiny bit of structure to a wild and sprawling garden, especially in the height of the season when things are growing like weeds,” says Wong.
Embrace wild wood.
Above: Wong creates open-lashed fences and structures from found wood, which she describes in detail in the pages of Into the Weeds.
Instead of buying fencing at the home improvement store, Wong forages “wild wood” to make fences, borders, and gates in her garden, creating her own woven wattle and open-lashed edging using wood and vines found on her property. The wild wood is in harmony with her untamed aesthetic and will eventually nourish the soil when it breaks down—it’s also eminently affordable.
Rethink your vegetable beds.
Above: Wong views raised beds as “a home base” that plants are bound to escape, rather than a strict container that must be meticulously weeded around.
Wong cultivates many edible plants in beds, but she mixes them with two types of wild plants: Familiar foraging plants and native plants that are not edible but add other benefits, like milkweed and mountain mint. “These beds are a dazzling array of diversity,” she writes. “A mixed blend of natives and nonnatives, perennials, annuals, and biannuals.”
Above: Into The Weeds is available now wherever books are sold, including Bookshop.org.
While Wong admits her forager’s approach to gardening is unconventional, she also believes that as weather becomes more extreme and unpredictable, it will be more difficult to maintain large areas in a maintained, manicured way. “I think this is where things are heading, but for now, it’s for people who are kind of like me—they’re frustrated, failed gardeners,” Wong says. “This book is for the people that can’t garden the way garden books are supposed to inspire us to garden.”
For more recently published books to check out, see:
In place of the annual tulip-mania that strikes at this time each spring, there have been discontented rumblings amongst growers and gardeners this year. All is not well in the world of tulips. Cries of “less is more” from formerly ardent maximalists, whose pots used to be bulging with a kaleidoscopic mix of vibrant tulips, have dotted social media. Why the fuss about this much-loved bulb? Read on to find out.
Photography by Clare Coulson, unless otherwise noted.
Above: The Lime Walk at Sissinghurst Castle, where tulips are the main event in April; here, they are displayed in large pots with a carpet of spring bulbs underneath.
A perfect storm of conditions have lately come to plague the tulip—quite literally in the case of tulip fire, a fungal disease (Botrytis tulipae) that attacks bulbs. The blight causes distorted or spotted leaves and ugly spots on the flowers. And it can go on to contaminate the soil. If your plants have it, it’s important to be rigorous about hygiene: Pull the affected bulbs and do not dispose of them on the compost heap where the fungus can flourish. Gardeners should also avoid replanting tulips in the area for the following three years. Similarly, if potted bulbs have been affected, remove and dispose of the bulbs (and later the compost, too) and make sure that you the clean pots very well at the end of the season.
Above: Tulips and narcissi in pots in the author’s garden.
Climate change is exacerbating the problem—in areas where there are no longer prolonged periods of cold during winter, it’s more likely that disease can flourish. (For tulips proper winter cold is an essential part of the lifecycle.) Very wet springs also contribute to the spread of disease.
Above: No other spring bulbs provide quite the pop of color as the tulip, available in endless colors and shapes. Here ‘Dream Touch’, ‘Copper Image’, ‘Vovos’, and ‘Palmyra’ work well with perennial wallflowers.
It’s not just the fungus. Tulips are a big investment and they’ve gotten more expensive. In my garden my annual spend on bulbs is far, far greater than the total of all other seeds, plants, and any other garden kit throughout the whole year. And in many cases those expensive tulip bulbs will not re-flower after the first season, especially if they’ve been grown in pots. At a time when we are all thinking far more about the choices we make and their impact on the planet, it all feels quite wasteful.
Above: Historic tulips also tend to be more perennial than many of the annual flowering tulips. ‘Malaika’ is a stunning historic tulip that is almost impossible to find for sale.
And then there is the constant threat from wildlife. Friends this spring have had their entire tulip crop dug up by mice, swiped by squirrels, or munched by passing deer, who seem particularly adept at eating just the flower bud and leaving the ugly (and useless) bare stem.
Above: The stunning Tulipa turkestanica photographed by Britt Willoughby Dyer for Polly Nicholson’s The Tulip Garden.
A cut flower garden is one of the most rewarding spaces you can grow. I mean, who doesn’t love flowers?! Whether you plan to grow them to enjoy yourself, to give to friends and family, or even to sell and make a profit from, here’s how to start a cut flower garden from scratch.
Sometimes, I can’t believe that I exist in a world where flowers grow. The fact that these beautiful-looking and even more gorgeous-smelling things exist naturally in nature is nothing short of a miracle.
While I don’t grow many cut flowers in my garden, I admire everyone who does. Flowers are one of the most in-demand crops and one of the more maintenance-intensive ones. But we can’t deny just how rewarding it is to harvest their blooms!
Today, I’m featuring one of the best cut flower gardening experts, Lisa Mason Ziegler. She owns The Gardener’s Workshop and has been growing flowers commercially since 1998.
Before you get started with any physical preparations, it’s a good idea to think about what kind of plants you want to include in your cut flower garden.
Make a list of your dream flowers based on what you want to grow and what can realistically grow in your zone.
In her book, Lisa describes both warm-season and cool-season annuals. Both complete their lifecycle in a year, but they require different growing conditions.
“Warm-season tender annuals thrive when planted and grown in warm to hot conditions,” says Lisa. They include flowers such as amaranth, celosia, cosmos, hibiscus, marigold, sunflowers, zinnia, and more.
“Cool-season hardy annuals thrive when planted and grown in cool to cold conditions,” says Lisa. They include the likes of baby’s breath, bachelor buttons, carnations, feverfew, foxglove, larkspur, poppy, snapdragon, statice, sweet peas, yarrow, and much more.
Limit how many different types of flowers you grow in your first year or so. Plant only a few types, but plant them in abundance. Really nail down the conditions, timing, and care before you expand. Otherwise, you’ll be overwhelmed.
Yarrow comes in many colours and is very drought-tolerant.
When to Plant Cut Flowers
It’s important to know whether or not you’re dealing with warm or cool-season annuals so you can plant them at the right time.
“Planting outside the recommended seasonal weather conditions can result in seeds and transplants that are shocked and stressed, which delays the sprouting and growing process,” says Lisa.
When you plant seeds too early, you either waste seeds that never sprout or end up with mediocre plants susceptible to disease and pests.
“Cool-season annuals have varying planting times, depending on the garden’s low winter temperatures,” says Lisa. “Finding the best planting times for your conditions may take a little time and practice, but it is worth it.”
Don’t skip out on this extra time just because these flowers may not be as straightforward. Some are planted in fall, others in winter, and some in early spring. They can get you some of the year’s earliest flowers.
As for warm-season annuals, you’ll want to pay attention to frost dates and temperatures. Lisa notes, “The weather signal I wait for to begin transplanting outdoors is the moment when nighttime air temperatures reach 60°F (15.5°C) or above with soil temperature at a minimum of 60°F (15.5°C).”
Nigella are great cut as a flower but also have aesthetic dried seed pods for arrangements.
Succession Planting
I’ve always been a big proponent of succession planting. I use it for many of my annuals, including vegetables. But it’s also one of the best tools to use for a cut flower garden.
Succession planting is when you stagger planting seeds. So rather than start all your zinnia seeds at once, you start some now, sow more a couple of weeks later, and another batch two weeks after that.
If you plant everything all at once, they’ll bloom all at the same time. Succession planting allows you to stagger the harvest and make it much more manageable. It will also prevent some of your flowers from going to waste.
“To practice growing a three-season cutting garden, whether a small bed or an acre, you must remember that, to keep this garden producing and as weed-free as possible, plantings should be pulled once they begin to decline to make way for the next planting,” says Lisa.
Dahlia and other bulb flowers can also be great for cutting gardens.
Choosing a Bed Location
Realtors and cut flower gardens have one thing in common…they’re always screaming location, location, location!
If you’re building a bed for your cut flower garden layout, you’ll want to make sure you’re choosing the right spot on your property.
Almost all cutting flowers require full sunlight. You’ll need plenty of sun to get as many blooms as possible, and to keep any disease from thriving in moisty, shady locations.
It’s also important to make sure your bed is accessible. Cut flowers are not low-maintenance, so you’ll need to make sure you can access them from all sides. Avoid placing your bed next to any structures, as this will make it difficult to access and block valuable sunlight.
Also, ensure your water source is nearby. You don’t want to have to lug around a hose every time you want to water your flowers or create a tripping hazard thanks to a drip irrigation trail.
Delphinium comes in all kinds of beautiful jewel-toned colours.
A Note on Bed Size
You don’t need much space to have a productive cut flower garden. In fact, when it’s smaller, you pay more attention to it and remember to harvest the flowers often. This results in more productive plants.
For a beginner cut flower gardener who is growing flowers at home, Lisa recommends having two beds, with each being 3 x 10 ft. (0.9 x 3 m).
“Narrower beds are easier to reach into the center of and are low where the harvest cut is made, helping prevent us from stepping on the bed during harvesting,” says Lisa. “A 36-inch (90 cm) wide bed works well, with my beds getting narrower as I age to reduce the reaching and bending distance.”
Calendula is very easy-to-grow cut flower, as well as a skincare herb.
Preparing Your Cut Flower Garden Bed
Most cut flower gardeners grow their flowers in raised beds. “I grow in raised beds because it is easier to improve drainage and soil quality,” says Lisa. “Beds can have either framed sides made with lumber or just mounded soil with no framed sides.”
The next most important aspect of a cut flower garden is soil quality. Poor soil conditions can affect output. Flowers require soil with plenty of nutrients, good drainage, and the ability to retain moisture.
Keeping up soil quality is an ongoing process. Add natural soil amendments and compost, as well as fertilizer, if necessary, to keep up the soil conditions.
Mulch is also great for feeding the soil, preventing weeds, and retaining moisture. When you disturb the soil, you bring weed seeds to the surface and allow them to sprout. Always apply a layer of mulch afterward to prevent these weed seeds from popping up.
It’s also a good idea to set up irrigation. While the flowers should be able to tolerate some drought, a watering system will be necessary. Rather than hose everything daily, it’s best to set up irrigation.
“Low pressure irrigation systems like driplines and T-tape are long lasting, easy to install, and use little water,” says Lisa.
Small urban gardens can have a flower stand, like this one by my friend Holly.
FAQ About Cut Flower Garden Layouts
How much space do you need for a cut flower garden?
The recommended bed size for home gardens is 3 x 10 ft. (0.9 x 3 m). Go smaller, but don’t go larger. Anything larger will be difficult to access and maintain. You want to be able to reach all the flowers to allow you to harvest them easily.
Can you do a cut flower garden in pots?
If you plan to grow flowers to sell or for any commercial reason, it will be difficult to grow enough flowers in pots. But as a home gardener, you can grow many of these flowers in pots and cut them to bring inside. Just make sure the pot is deep enough, has quality potting soil, and has drainage holes.
How do you prepare a bed for cut flowers?
The more fertile your soil is, the better. Adding in organic amendments such as compost, manure, dried leaves, and green manure will help to increase the soil quality. They increase nutrient levels, retain moisture well, and provide good drainage.
It’s also recommended to add a layer of mulch. This will prevent weeds from growing and help retain moisture. Landscaping fabric acts in the same way.
And that’s everything about setting up a cut flower garden layout! The next steps are to actually start your seeds and care for them. For a complete guide on how to design a cut flower garden and for more resources on specific flowers, be sure to check out Lisa’s The Cut Flower Handbook.
As a regular reader, you may already be familiar with Perfect Earth Project, as Gardenista has partnered with them on an ongoing series about nature-based, toxic-free gardening. But you may not know much about the group’s tour-de-force founder, Edwina von Gal. The venerable landscape designer-turned-sustainable gardening advocate has been calling for less lawn, more wildlife for decades, via both her projects for clients and her nonprofit. She is currently on the board of What Is Missing, Maya Lin’s multifaceted media artwork about the loss of biodiversity, and an honorary trustee of the Native Plant Trust.
Edwina, who resides in Springs, NY, recently responded to our Quick Takes questionnaire from her retreat, Cocoloche, in Panama: “I built it with minimal resources to explore just that. How could I keep my footprint light and—with good design and the materials at hand—make a place that would engage and awe people?” It’s her philosophy to garden design as well.
Read on to learn Edwina’s favorite hardscaping material (hint: it’s not hard), her go-to work pants (we want them now, too), and why she thinks it’s imperative for designers to push back on client’s misguided requests.
Above: Edwina counts Cindy Sherman, Calvin Klein, and Ina Garten among her clients. Photograph courtesy of Perfect Earth Project.
Your first garden memory:
The patch of silver dollar plant (Lunaria annua) that always returned in a spot by our swing set. I looked for it every year, and would open it and spread the seeds without realizing I was its dispersal agent.
Above: Edwina visiting one of her projects. Photograph by Allan Pollok-Morris.
Experimental. Exuberant. Engaging.
Plant that makes you swoon:
Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboretum). It blooms late in the summer and then follows the show with brilliant fall color. It is relatively small, so it won’t outgrow its space or out-compete the plants beneath it. Since it is a southern plant, it is a bit of assisted migration for me, providing familiar blooms for wildlife that are moving north to escape the heat.
Plant that makes you want to run the other way:
Crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia). It’s overused and under-useful for biodiversity. One good thing about it, though, is that in the conventional landscapes where it is so popular, it doesn’t need to be sprayed with pesticides.
Favorite go-to plant:
Above: Edwina can’t get enough of spotted beebalm (Monarda punctata). Photograph by Edwina von Gal.
Monarda punctata. It tends to be short lived—it might act like an annual—but I am willing to replant it as I never tire of its odd combination of wacky complicated bloom and understated presence. Not to mention how many pollinators love it, too.
Hardest gardening lesson you’ve learned:
When to stop.
Unpopular gardening opinion:
Designs that are harmful, but the designer does it anyway, because it is “what the client wants.” We are hired for our expertise. But how can we, the ones who are expected to know, allow even one more garden to be harmful to the environment and the people who enjoy them?
Gardening or design trend that needs to go:
Monocultures: large swaths of one plant.
Every garden needs a…
Above: A place for thirsty wildlife in Edwina’s own garden in Springs, NY. Photograph by Edwina von Gal.
“My current favorite combination is white-blooming pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea), sideoats grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis), purple love grass, and burgundy ‘Red Midget’ upright prairie coneflower (Ratibida columnifera ‘Red Midget’). These are all functional and resilient native perennials. Tough as nails, drought tolerant, long bloom times, understated, textural, and gorgeous.”
4. Foxglove Beardtongue + Native Grasses
Above: Hummingbirds and bumblebees love foxglove beardtongue, planted here among native grasses. Bonus: They grow well in clay soils with poor drainage. Photograph courtesy of Grace Fuller.
Grace Fuller Marroquin, Founder and Creative Director of Grace Fuller Design, New York:
“I love to combine foxglove beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis) and native grasses, like switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis). They’re beautiful, romantic, and are great for pollinators. Plus, they’re drought-resistant and require minimum water to get them started.”
5. Coast Live Oak Tree + Island Alumroot
Above: The coast live oak tree is a keystone species in the Mediterranean region of California (ecoregion 11). It serves as a host plant for 275 caterpillars, including Propertius Duskywing, Mournful Duskywing, White M Hairstreak, and Northern Hairstreak butterflies. Photograph by Caitlin Atkinson, courtesy of Terremoto.
David Godshall, principal and co-founder of California-based Terremoto.
“We’ve slowly come to the realization that landscaping under coast live oak trees (Quercus agrifolia) is almost a different genre of garden-making. In their native habitats, very little grows in these dry, part sun, part-shade environments. Additionally, we have to be very sparing about adding irrigation to these trees, as they don’t like summer water! Luckily for us, Island Alumroot (Heuchera maxima) co-evolved to fill this very particular botanical niche, and we’ve had great success using them as drought tolerant, partial shade loving groundcover to make oak woodlands feel a bit more cultivated or purposeful. They push beautiful pink to white flowers in spring to boot.”
Garden designer Leslie Bennett’s new bookGarden Wonderland (out April 2, 2024) is full of delicious surprises. For one, it’s so much more than a book about edible landscape design, for which Bennett’s design-build firm Pine House Edible Gardens, is best known. Yes, there are plenty of fruit trees and raised veggie beds within, but the book includes other types of gardens as well. It’s broken into five types of wonderland: edible, floral, healing, gathering, and cultural.
The 18 client gardens, plus Bennett’s own backyard, that are featured in the book are gorgeous, immersive, and aspirational, but they also feel eminently approachable, like they could belong to your cool friend (not someone with a full-time gardener). Those people and their stories are also right there in the pages of the book: Bennett’s clients were all photographed in their gardens, which is something you don’t often see. The result is a volume that feels deeply human and captures the spirit of “wonder” that Bennett hopes we will experience in our gardens.
Above: Leslie’s own garden wonderland, in Oakland, CA.
More than just a dreamy coffee table book, Garden Wonderland is packed with practical how-to advice and takeaways for both novice and seasoned gardeners. We spoke to Bennett to find out how we can all weave more wonder into our backyards.
Above: Fragrant English lavender, edible pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowiana), Agave celsii, kalanchoe, and kangaroo paws fill this cottage garden. Their contrasting foliage and flowers provide year-round beauty.
To pay attention to plants in a garden may sound like obvious advice, but Bennett points out that many of today’s yards center around expensive hardscape elements or fancy furniture. “In contrast, a garden wonderland is a plant-based space where fairly minimal hardscape will do,” Bennett notes in her introduction. “By designing your garden using lots of lushly layered, interactive plants, you can create a place where you will be surrounded by plant and animal life and awaken all your senses. You may brush past a scented geranium and welcome its fragrance or savor the taste of luscious homegrown fruit.”
Raised beds have taken the gardening world by storm, and just about every vegetable gardener claims at least one raised bed in their design. But are raised beds better for gardening? People feel passionate about gardening in raised beds vs in ground beds, so let’s talk about the benefits and the drawbacks of each.
In my old garden, I used a combination of raised beds and in ground beds. All of my perennials and herbs were in the ground, while I reserved one large raised bed for my vegetables.
Just a sliver of my garden had full sun to grow my vegetables. So my solution was to make a unique stacked raised bed where I could optimize my growing space. It worked perfectly for someone with a small garden and as someone with mobility issues.
As for my home, there is one big raised bed left behind by previous owners that is completely impractical. It’s goes right up against a neighbour’s fence, meaning it’s difficult to access. So I’ll actually be removing it this summer!
There is always going to be a case for both sides of growing in raised beds vs in ground ones. So let me break down what you can expect from either option.
Raised Bed vs In Ground Beds
In ground beds are what’s more traditional, and what I’m sure most of your existing gardening beds are. This is when you grow your plants straight into the native soil. There is no turf or lawn, just soil ready for you to plant in.
Raised beds have four walls, creating an enclosed space. These edges can be made of wood, brick, plastic, concrete, or other building materials. They vary significantly in size, with some being small and portable and others large and fixed to the ground.
In ground beds can handle plants of all sizes.
Are Raised Beds Better for Gardening?
When it comes down to it, it all depends on the soil quality. For some, their backyard has wonderful beds of soil, whether you put your all into making it so or inherited some darn good soil already.
For some, they don’t have great soil. Perhaps they have drainage issues or compact, clay soil. In some of these cases, it’s easier to start from scratch with a raised bed rather than try to fix the soil. Leave it to the perennials to fix it up instead!
There are many pros and cons for raised beds vs in ground ones. It all depends on what your current issues are, what you hope you grow, and what space you have. I’ll break this down further, so you can figure out what kind of bed is best for you!
Raised beds are great for communal spaces to ensure everyone has designated space.
Pros of Raised Beds
Raised beds are very trendy in gardening right now. They have a distinct neat and orderly look that many home gardeners appreciate. Even when there’s nothing growing in them, they can provide some winter interest. But there are a lot more positive things to consider besides the orderliness of a raised bed.
Space Saver
These raised beds can give you extra space in your gardening. If you have limited existing growing space, say from a paved patio or large deck, you can grow plenty in raised beds.
They’re also great for small spaces that need to perfectly manage their space, such as balcony growers or small urban gardens.
While no garden is going to be completely pest free, raised beds can give you a leg up in keeping the pests away. Since the raised bed isn’t on level ground, it’s out of stomping and chomping range for specific pests like snails, slugs, and rabbits. I grow my lettuce in a wine barrel to keep them away from slugs!
If the raised bed has a bottom or is lined, it can also protect from underground dwellers like gophers or moles.
And if you have small kiddos running around, it can also keep the garden away from curious hands and stomping feet. Same goes for dogs! Though cats seem to be able to reach wherever they set their heart on.
More Accessible
One of the biggest draws of raised beds vs ground beds is that they can be more accessible. Those who have injuries or disabilities may have difficulty in reaching and tending to ground beds.
If you have a raised bed that is higher up, you don’t have to bend or lean as much. It can make gardening much more accessible for anyone.
This stacked planter allowed me to harvest and tend to vegetables with limited bending.
Less Weeding
For most people, they will find that they have to do less weeding with a raised bed. With new weed-seed-free soil, less weeds are likely to pop up. The soil is sterile when taken care of properly.
The borders also help to keep out new weeds, especially those that spread easily through roots like crab grass or clover.
However, it should be noted that if you place a raised bed over top of where turf or weeds used to be and don’t have a lined bottom, the weeds can still creep their way in.
Of course, you’ll still get weeds no matter what—many are carried in the wind. So it’s not a fool proof solution!
High-Quality Soil
When you start a new raised bed, you’re immediately going to have some top-grade soil. If you are starting a ground bed, it can sometimes take a few years to build up the soil to be of high-quality.
Soil can be difficult for many reasons, like lots of roots from a tree that make it difficult to plant into or lots of debris and rocks that make it difficult to use.
Soil Temperatures
Raised beds heat up much more quickly than in ground beds. You can get an earlier start outside in the spring when temperatures begin to warm up in raised beds.
Raised beds (and containers, which are essentially small raised beds) are great for heat loving vegetables as they stay warmer in the summer than the ground.
It should be noted that it goes the opposite way in the cooler season. The ground will be slower to freeze and cool, while raised beds will cool quickly. So if you have anything sensitive to the cold, raised beds are not as well insulated in the fall and winter.
Better Drainage
If a raised bed is set up properly, it can have better drainage than in ground beds. This is especially helpful in super rainy areas or if your yard has drainage issues and can collect soggy soil.
That being said, raised beds can pool water at the base if it isn’t set up for proper drainage. So make sure you set it up right to take advantage of this pro.
Peppers grow well in containers and raised beds since they like higher soil temperatures.
Cons of Raised Beds
For every pro, there is a con. Many of these pros have other considerations that should also be noted. In some cases, in ground beds are a better option than raised ones. Here are some of the not-as-great aspects of growing plants in a raised bed.
More Expensive
You don’t need much to start growing in the ground. You can get started instantly, and don’t have to worry about buying extra building materials or bucket loads of soil.
Speaking of soil, it can get pretty pricey when you’re filling a whole raised bed (or two) full of it. I always suggest adding a layer beneath of other organic material such as branches and leaves. But even then, it will degrade and you’ll find yourself topping off with soil the next year.
While you have the initial building costs of the raised bed, it may also require upkeep down the road. Especially if you use wood, you may find yourself needing to replace panels just a few years after constructing it.
This space would work better as an in ground bed since it’s right against a wall and not very accessible.
Requires More Resources
Plants in the ground have a big leg up on the competition for being low maintenance. They have access to endless soil beneath them where they can access all the nutrients they need and plenty of water.
I never add any supplemental fertilizer to my in ground beds. Everything they need is already in the soil. I add layers of compost when I have some ready and allow leaf mulch to degrade in the fall. And that’s all they need!
Meanwhile, plants in raised beds and containers will require supplemental fertilizer to get the nutrients they need. And oftentimes, watering will wash away a good chunk of the nutrients too.
In ground beds also retain water much better. They can access moisture from deeper in the ground during droughts. Raised beds dry out quite quickly, and you’ll find yourself watering them almost daily in the peak of the summer.
Raised beds can also be difficult to irrigate. You’re working against gravity after all.
Adding a layer of compost to my in ground beds are all they need. No fertilizer required!
Limited Growing Space
When designing a raised bed, it’s important to consider how deep you make it, as this will limit what you can grow. Anything that has deep roots will have difficult growing in raised beds. With edges and bottoms, plants has difficult getting the horizontal spread and depth they need.
In some cases, raised beds can be portable. This is great for moving plants around as your design changes and to optimize growing conditions such as amount of sunlight.
But in most cases, raised beds are actually quite permanent. As your design changes, you get stuck with a large and immobile structure. For new gardeners, the first design doesn’t always stick. You learn how other designs and systems work better for you.
When you spend time and money building a raised bed, many are hesitant to take it all down and start from scratch. But sometimes that’s the only solution for a new, better working garden design.
Most raised beds are too large to be moved if you want to change your garden design or layout.
Time and Energy
Depending on what your biggest problems are, a raised bed vs an in ground bed can take more time or energy. Besides the initial build of a raised bed, they also will require more daily watering and fertilizer than a raised bed. But, you may find yourself not having to fight weeds or pests as much.
Likewise, an in ground bed doesn’t require much set up. You save time on watering and requiring little fertilizer. But you may end up spending more time weeding, amending soil, and fighting slugs and snails.
Take the time to think about your space, what you plan on growing, and your individual needs. Weigh these pros and cons I’ve outline in raised beds vs in ground beds, and see what fits your garden best!
FAQ About Raised Gardening Beds
What vegetables should not be grown in a raised bed?
Avoid any large vegetables. This means those that sprawl above ground and below ground. Vegetables with large root systems, such as pumpkins or watermelons, may have difficulty if the bed isn’t deep enough.
Anything vining can also be difficult. Make sure you have a trellis to encourage these plants to grow up, not across the bed.
Also avoid any vegetables that may be difficult to access, such as potatoes or corn.
What veggies do best in raised beds?
Veggies with shallow root systems do exceptionally well in raised beds. They’re quite versatile, so you can even put them in containers.
Root vegetables like loose soil, which also makes them a great candidate for raised beds since there is no foot traffic to compact the soil.
Heat loving vegetables may also benefit from raised beds as the soil temperature is warmer in the summer.
Is it cheaper to make or buy raised garden beds?
If you’re handy, it’s usually cheaper to make your raised garden beds yourself. If you can use reclaimed wood, even better. Here’s how you can make your own raised garden bed.
Do you have a preference for raised beds vs ground ones? Let me know in the comments below.
Whether you’re blessed with a sprawling backyard or a pocket-sized garden, creating a stunning and functional outdoor entertainment area that the whole family will love is achievable with proper planning and creative thinking.
If you want to make the most out of your outdoor space without blowing the budget, it’s important to plan your shopping around favourable outdoor furniture deals and annual sales. This is the easiest way to ensure you can include design features and furniture that suit every family member, making it a versatile and comfortable space for the entire family.
Here are some top tips for creating the perfect outdoor family entertainment area.
Plan your layout
When designing and building an outdoor entertainment area, you need to dedicate time to properly planning the space first.
Consider how you’re going to use your outdoor area, how often you want to use it, and what must be included to meet your needs. For example, if you need to host large groups of people or want a suitable place for your children and their friends to hang out, it’s crucial to make sure you have enough space to accommodate everyone. Similarly, if you want to cook outdoors, you need a barbecue and kitchen area.
With larger areas, you may find it easier to create different zones, each with its own purpose and function. Smaller areas will be less intimidating than one large and overwhelming space. If possible, select a focal point around which you design the rest of your entertainment space.
When building an outdoor entertainment area, it’s essential to choose the correct lighting to suit the area’s function. Solar garden lights are cost-effective and unobtrusive, allowing you to light your garden or highlight special features.
If you plan to include an outdoor dining space, you need soft yet adequate lighting. Harsh lighting will diminish the romantic charm of outdoor dining, while inadequate fixtures will leave your guests trying to guess what is on their plates. For undercover patio areas, permanent fittings add a sophisticated and formal touch.
Multi-generational zones
While each member of your family uses the rooms in your home in unique ways, your outdoor living space provides the perfect opportunity to reinvent the way your family lives and plays together.
The most popular features, which include mood lighting, sound systems, hot tubs, and entertaining spaces, to name a few, allow you to build an area that appeals to all family members.
Embrace smart technology
Smart outdoor spaces are the natural progression of smart homes.
Wi-Fi-enabled barbecues, smokers, and grills are an ever-growing trend, allowing families to cook food to their exact specifications. Smart fridges can be installed in outdoor kitchens alongside Bluetooth-controlled fire pits and wireless smart heaters.
For year-round usage and comfort, high-tech canopies can be installed to track the sun and tilt to catch a cooling breeze. Rain sensors will automatically close the roof once the rainy season arrives.
All of these technological developments can help you maximise use of your outdoor family entertainment area.
Prioritise practicality
The most significant appeal of outdoor entertainment areas is the ability to make the most of all the spaces in and around the home. While a barbecue, comfortable chairs, and a table may have been sufficient in the past, more and more people are looking to invest in outdoor fridges, pizza ovens, ice machines, AV systems, and more.
To accommodate all of these new features, you need to consider the practicalities of installing and maintaining the appliances, including year-round protection from the elements. By choosing furnishings, decor and products that are weather resistant, with adequate coverings for wet or snowy weather, your outdoor living space can be suitable for every season.
Should space and budget allow, consider installing ‘hidden’ appliances that can safely tuck away when not in use. This is particularly beneficial for climates with excessive rain while still providing protection from glaring sunshine, which can also cause significant damage.
Year-round enjoyment
The cold winter months don’t have to automatically mean you are confined to spending more time indoors. Instead, planning your outdoor space with special consideration to winter weather will give you somewhere to enjoy year-round.
Including crackling firepits, bespoke outdoor fireplaces, infrared heaters, and other smart heating devices in your design will allow you to create a comfortable space you can use at any time of the year.
Choose the right decking or paving
Outdoor areas have been a staple feature of homes in favourable climates for years. With the advancement of building materials, homeowners can now make their indoor and outdoor spaces work cohesively, giving their homes a more contemporary feel.
With so many fantastic, low-maintenance options now available, selecting the right decking or paving material will save you significant time and money on repairs and upgrades in the future, making it a worthwhile investment.
We didn’t know we needed quietly stylish workwear and Italian garden clogs in our lives until Alan Calpe and Christopher Crawford’s Gardenheir came along. Now, like many others who’ve discovered their website or wandered into their chic shop in Windham, NY, we’re obsessed. The pair founded the business “after becoming more and more consumed as we made our first garden in Upstate New York,” says Alan, who has a background in visual arts and art education; Christopher comes from fashion design.Next up for the enterprising couple: “We recently purchased the property next door and much of it is quite wet land, so we are slowly working towards creating a wild, meandering bog garden.”
Ready to find out what they wear when they garden (spoiler alert: it’s not Crocs) and how they use dryer sheets to fend off bugs?
Above: Christopher and Alan (right) in their moonlight garden.
Your first garden memory:
Alan: One of my oldest friends’ mom was an avid gardener and made a beautifully jungly Florida garden that welcomed you through the front door. I wish I could’ve told her just how much of an influence she was, from peeking into her floral arranging workshop to her once making me a gift of a large strawberry pot dripping of herbs to accompany me to college. I’d consider it my first garden, actually.
Book/show/movie/art that has influenced your work:
Christopher: Early on, reading other’s accounts of making their first gardens, like Margery Fish’s We Made a Garden and Jamaica Kincaid’s My Garden. The unknowing, the failures and pleasures, resonated with us as we fumbled through our beginning gestures.
Alan: Gilles Clément’s The Planetary Garden and Other Writingsshapes a philosophical approach to gardening that I think about often. There’s still much of his work that I don’t think I completely grasp, but it challenges us to look deeply, think more deeply, into the decisions we make in the garden.
Garden-related book you return to time and again:
Alan: We have a copy of Derek Jarman’s Modern Nature in plain view in our home. Because it’s written as diaristic entries arranged through the passing of a year, we often will pick it up to read the chapter that coincides with our own time, to bring him and his garden at Dungeness close to us.
Alan: Iris fulva (copper iris). A native iris with a perfectly simple form and seductive rusty tones.
Plant that makes you want to run the other way:
Christopher: Burdocks, Japanese knotweed.
Favorite go-to plant:
Above: Ornamental grasses planted in their landscape include Deschampsia cespitosa and the Veronicastrum virginicum ‘Album’.
Christopher: Still a sucker for heirloom roses even if they’re finicky in our garden. Pycnanthemum (mountain mints) for sure.
Alan: Also, our garden would be nothing without the structural ornamental grasses.
Most dreaded gardening chore:
Christopher: Picking off Japanese beetles.
Unpopular gardening opinion:
Alan: We have a hard time getting rid of plants that we’ve fallen out of favor with or might not even be thriving so well. It’s sort of like a bad tattoo that you refuse to remove because it reminds you of a particular time in your life. (Even if it’s relegated to a far-off corner somewhere!)
…water feature that stays accessible, with at least a portion of the surface unfrozen, even in winter. The power of water to support increased diversity is unmatched in the garden; from dragonflies to amphibians to birds and mammals, the water garden is where the action is. My two in-ground pools were one of the first things I created here, and thanks in large part to them 70ish species of birds visit regularly, for instance.
Tool you can’t live without:
Why over-effort by using a too-big pruner when for most jobs a smaller, lightweight one will do? ARS HP-300LDX stainless steel needle-nose fruit pruners, meant for working in vineyards and orchards, are my hand-saving go-to for most daily chores. I have a pair of lightweight, scaled-down aluminum loppers, too, for making bigger cuts.
Go-to gardening outfit:
My yoga gear from 20 years ago, rubber boots, and un-fancy gloves with nitrile-coated palms and fingers.
Favorite nursery, plant shop, or seed company:
Cannot name just one, but I am a longtime champion of farm-based, organic seed companies—people who grow some or all of the seed they sell, and are happy to tell you who grew the rest, and how. In this age of such terrifying consolidation of the seed industry into the hands of a few giant companies who regard and patent it as intellectual property, these often small “seedkeepers” in the organic movement are where I see hope.
On your wishlist:
Above: Amsonia tabernaemontana. Photograph by Kerry Woods via Flickr.
After reading Mt. Cuba Center’s just-published Trial Garden research on all the different native bluestars, or Amsonia, I almost want them all. Beautiful flowers, and graceful foliage with great fall color—plus they are super-tough and long-lived.
In their New Jersey garden, my friends Louis Bauer and Ken Druse use columnar trees really effectively—both conifers and deciduous ones such as European beech—and I’m trying to identify a couple of spots here for such distinctive exclamation points.
Not-to-be-missed public garden/park/botanical garden:
In just 10ish years, the historic estate called Untermyer Gardens Conservancy in Yonkers, NY, has risen from the ashes, thanks to a crew of artistic and energetic horticulturists. Breathtaking. Speaking of transforming historic estates, Stoneleigh in Villanova, PA, is being transformed with a natives-only mission—unusual in such a formal setting, and very exciting.
The REAL reason you garden:
Above: In The Backyard Parables, Margaret writes about why gardening is about so much more than plants.
I always say that I garden because I cannot help myself. It’s not about outdoor decorating for me (though I do think the yard looks better for the efforts). More powerful, though, I experience the garden as part meditative space, part science lab. It’s a place where I slow down and where my curiosity is constantly aroused—and not just about plants, but birds, moths, lichen, you name it, and how all the pieces of the food chain and the ecosystem fit together.
It’s always a good idea to give the gift of courtesy to your neighbors. Even if they’re not the type to fly into a yard rage, they’ll still appreciate a little kindness in the garden.
What do the basic tenets of neighborliness require? Keep your yard tidy (dazzling horticultural displays are always welcome, but not mandatory). Mow your grass (if you have any), rake the leaves, and try not to leave stuff like bikes, toys, and garden tools littering the lawn. A good rule of thumb is to consider how you’d like your neighbor’s yard to look, and then apply it to your own. Oh, your standards aren’t that high? Then try imagining yourself as a discriminating person with a penchant for orderliness and good taste.
City gardeners, you’re not off the hook. The neighbors whose windows overlook your backyard or balcony may be a tad jealous of your outdoor space. If you can’t invite them over for a barbecue, at least keep your outdoor space looking decent (and, OK, enviable).
For garden etiquette insights we talked with Melissa Ozawa, the former gardens editor at Martha Stewart Living (and now the director of content and communications at the Perfect Earth Project). Ozawa herself tends a small outdoor space in New York City and also gardens upstate in Columbia County. Here are 10 common-sense good-neighbor suggestions:
Prune your trees, shrubs, and vines so they don’t encroach on your neighbor’s space. “And keep safety in mind,” says Ozawa. “Remove any big branches that look damaged or diseased—a storm could make them more precarious, and it’s better to be safe than sorry.” Trimming overhanging branches also helps prevent your leaves from falling into a neighbor’s yard—and you don’t want your leaves in the neighbor’s yard.
Plant Natives
Above: Sunflowers (Helianthus). Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer. For more, see Field Guide: Sunflowers.
Is it true that concrete sleepers are the best choice for your landscaping needs?
You may have heard the buzz about concrete sleepers in Sydney, praised for their durability and versatility. But how do they really stack up against other popular landscaping materials such as timber, natural stone, or bricks?
You may find it surprising that the answer isn’t as straightforward as you’d think.
In this article, we’ll take a look at the pros and cons of each material, helping you make an informed decision about the most suitable choice for your project.
Understanding concrete sleepers
Concrete sleepers are a durable and versatile option for landscaping. You’re probably familiar with wood and metal as go-to materials, but concrete sleepers can offer unique benefits that set them apart.
To start, they’re incredibly durable. Concrete sleepers resist the elements with ease, shrugging off rain, snow, and scorching sun. They won’t warp or rot like wood, and they’re impervious to pests.
But it’s not all about toughness: concrete sleepers also offer versatility in design. They come in a wide range of colours, textures, and patterns. You can choose a rustic, wood-like appearance, or opt for a sleek, modern design.
Lastly, the installation of concrete sleepers isn’t as daunting as it may seem. With the right preparation and a bit of elbow grease, you can do it yourself. That’s a cost-saving you’ll appreciate.
In essence, you’re looking at a landscaping material that’s robust, versatile, and user-friendly. So next time you’re planning a garden project, consider concrete sleepers. They might be the perfect fit for your needs.
Benefits of concrete sleepers
Building on their impressive versatility and durability, concrete sleepers also offer a host of other benefits worth considering.
You’ll appreciate the low maintenance that concrete sleepers require. Unlike wood, they don’t rot or attract termites, and they resist weathering. Furthermore, they’re fire-resistant, which is a key consideration if you live in a fire-prone area.
Their aesthetic appeal is another plus. Available in various designs and textures, you can choose a style that complements your outdoor setting. Whether you’re after a modern, rustic or traditional look, there’s a concrete sleeper to match your taste.
Lastly, concrete sleepers are often made from recycled materials, reducing the strain on our natural resources.
Drawbacks of concrete sleepers
Despite their numerous advantages, concrete sleepers aren’t without their drawbacks, and it’s important you’re aware of these before making your decision. While they’re a popular choice in landscaping, there are certain factors that might cause you to think twice.
First, concrete sleepers are heavy. This not only makes them hard to handle, but it also increases the cost of transportation. You’ll need special equipment to move them around, which can also increase your project costs.
Second, concrete sleepers lack the natural look that other materials offer. If you’re aiming for a more natural-looking landscape, concrete might not be your best bet.
Third, while concrete sleepers can be made from recycled materials, they require a lot of energy to produce, contributing to carbon emissions.
Lastly, concrete sleepers can be prone to cracking over time, especially in areas with extreme weather conditions.
Comparing concrete and timber
When you’re weighing up the pros and cons of concrete and timber for your landscaping project, several key differences come into play. You’ll find that both materials have their unique strengths and challenges; it’s all about matching these with your specific needs.
Concrete sleepers, for instance, are known for being low maintenance. These sturdy components can withstand harsh weather conditions and are resistant to rot, fire, and pests. However, they’re heavy and need professional installation. Also, they don’t offer much in terms of natural beauty or warmth.
Timber, on the other hand, is the complete opposite. It’s lightweight, easy to install, and adds natural elegance to any landscape. It’s also more flexible, allowing for creative designs. The downside? Timber requires regular maintenance to prevent decay, and it’s not as resilient to fire or pests as concrete.
In the end, the choice between concrete and timber comes down to your project’s specific requirements and your personal preference. Whether you value durability over aesthetics or vice versa, understanding these differences can help you make an informed decision.
Concrete sleepers vs. natural stone
Now, let’s shift our focus to another popular landscaping material – natural stone, and see how it measures up against concrete sleepers.
Aesthetics: Natural stone has a unique, elegant look that’s hard to replicate. It’s available in a variety of colours and textures, which can add a touch of class to your landscape. In contrast, concrete sleepers are more uniform and less distinctive, but they can be stained or painted to fit your design.
Durability: Concrete sleepers are extremely durable and resistant to weather conditions. However, natural stone can crack or chip over time, especially in areas with severe weather.
Maintenance: Both materials require minimal maintenance. Concrete sleepers just need occasional cleaning, while natural stone may require resealing every few years.
Cost: Natural stone is typically more expensive than concrete sleepers, mainly due to its extraction, processing, and transportation costs.
You’ll need to decide what’s more important to you: the natural, timeless beauty of stone, or the durability, ease of maintenance, and cost-effectiveness of concrete sleepers.
Bricks vs. concrete sleepers
Let’s delve into how this classic material stacks up against concrete sleepers in your landscaping projects.
Bricks, with their warm, traditional aesthetic, can add a charming, rustic vibe. However, they can be more expensive and labour-intensive to install than concrete sleepers.
Concrete sleepers, on the other hand, are durable, resistant to the elements, and can withstand significant weight, making them ideal for structures like retaining walls. They’re also relatively easy to install and require little maintenance, saving you time and effort in the long run.
You might worry that concrete sleepers lack the visual appeal of bricks, but you’d be surprised by the variety of designs and colours available. From mimicking natural stone to sleek modern styles, concrete sleepers can complement a wide range of landscapes.
In terms of cost, concrete sleepers are generally more affordable than bricks, especially when you factor in installation and maintenance costs. So, while bricks have their charm, concrete sleepers offer a practical, cost-effective, and aesthetically pleasing alternative for your landscaping needs.
As always, it’s best to weigh these factors according to your specific project requirements and personal preferences.
Making the best landscaping choice
Ultimately, it’s your individual landscaping goals and preferences that will determine the best material choice for your project. Your decision should reflect your vision for your space, factoring in your lifestyle needs, aesthetic preferences, and budget.
To make the best landscaping choice, consider the following factors:
Functionality: What’s the purpose of your landscaping? If you’re building a retaining wall, concrete sleepers are sturdy and durable. For pathways, bricks or pavers might be more suitable.
Aesthetics: What look are you going for? Concrete sleepers have a modern, industrial vibe, while bricks offer a classic, traditional look.
Maintenance: How much time can you spare for upkeep? Concrete is low-maintenance, while other materials like wood may require regular treatment.
Cost: Can your budget accommodate your preferred material? Concrete sleepers might be cost-effective in the long run due to their durability, but the initial cost might be higher.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the typical cost of concrete sleepers compared to other landscaping materials?
Typically, concrete sleepers are more expensive upfront, but prove cost-effective in the long run due to their durability and low maintenance. Prices vary based on suppliers.
How environmentally friendly are concrete sleepers compared to other options?
You’ll find concrete sleepers aren’t as eco-friendly as natural stone or wood. They’re energy-intensive to produce, but they win on longevity, reducing the need for frequent replacements.
What are some design options for concrete sleepers?
Concrete sleepers come in different colours, shapes, and textures. You can even mimic the look of wood, stone, or brick. It’s all about your personal style and preferences.
How do concrete sleepers fare in different weather conditions compared to other materials?
Concrete sleepers withstand various weather conditions better than most materials. They’re resistant to rot, termites, and fire, offering durability that wood or other materials can’t match. They’re a great choice for longevity.
Can concrete sleepers be easily installed by homeowners or do they require professional installation?
You can install concrete sleepers yourself, but it’s not a walk in the park. They’re heavy and awkward, so you’ll need help. Using professionals will ensure proper installation, saving you time and potential injury.
Conclusion
In the grand scheme of landscaping, concrete sleepers are tough as nails, durable as the day is long, and versatile to boot. Standing up to timber, stone, and brick, they can hold their own. Weighing up the pros and cons of each material and taking time to identify your priorities will help you make the right choice for your garden project.
A garden is brought to life by birds, not only with the sound of their singing but the sight of their constant activity, from dawn to dusk. Water, too, is an essential component of a garden with vitality. More than a trickling decoration, it brings in the insects that attract birds; it cleans the birds, and hydrates them. There is really no point in putting out seed without fresh water—which can be as simple as a few bowls (shallow enough for a bird to stand in), on the ground near shrubs, on a wall, on a makeshift pedestal.
People who love birds know that formality is a human, rather than avian interest, and that informal watering holes enhance any space. One of the most memorable aspects of designer Cleve West’s last garden at the Chelsea Flower Show (in 2016) was a trio of large rocks with indents carved into them for holding water. He does the carving himself, and on occasion still makes the kind of bird baths that birds like; there is one for sale now at Lichen Antiques.
Above: Campo de’ Fiori have a range of carved and weathered limestone planters in oval (above), round, square or rectangular shapes, starting at $116.25 for an interior dimension of approximately 4″. If a vessel has straight sides, bees and other insects will find it difficult to get out. Add large stones that emerge above water level or keep the water shallow. Moss is also helpful. Above: A bird will be happy with a wide bowl, or overturned dustbin lid. For more focused beauty in utility, Manufactum sells sensible birdbaths of granite-ceramic (aka Granicum) with an island to hop on to in the centre. €99.90; stainless steel stand also available. Above: The classic concrete bowls and planters that Swiss designer Willy Gruhl designed for Eternit in the 1950s have been used very effectively over the years for water as well as soil (by blocking the drainage holes). This vintage one is $3,200 at 1stdibs.
Above: Water evaporates more quickly from smaller vessels—a good reason to keep them topped up with fresh water instead of letting it stagnate. Made in New Hampshire by Dances with Stone, these hand carved river stones are given bathing-sized indents, with two small stone offcuts supplied to keep each mini pool in place. Available to order via Etsy from $80, and starting at a size of roughly 7-9” in length.
Above: Corten Steel curved water bowls by the Pot Company range between two- to over six-feet in diameter. Starting off as a blue steel, it naturally weathers, developing a coat of rust that prevents further erosion. The Pot Company is trade only (and comes recommended by designer Sheila Jack) but they retail at various online outlets including Harrod Horticultural, where prices start from £159.
Just when we were learning to live with box blight, the box tree caterpillar is laying waste to the remains. On the Royal Horticultural Society’s web page ‘Box: Problems’ it is clear that there are many other sap-sucking insects queuing up to destroy anyone’s dream of an English country garden.
The solution, unsurprisingly, is to plant something else. There is no consensus on what this should be: Ilex crenata, a boxwood lookalike, is often put forward, though it is less easygoing about soil conditions. Other common suggestions for small-leaved, easy to clip shrubs include Lonicera nitida, Teuchrium chamaedrys, and Euonymus japonicus. We visited the RHS headquarters at Wisley, Surrey (an hour from London) and found a few surprises. Let’s take a closer look:
Ed. note: These suggestions are meant for UK gardens–some of these plants are categorized as invasive in the USA, so use caution.
Dwarf Yew
Above: Above: The most surprising discovery was that a walled garden, divided into beds of low hedging, could be so lively and colorful in winter.
Waves of shrubs interweave into informal knots, yet every plant is sign-posted and on trial. The most interesting boxwood alternatives in this trial are not imitations, like a vegetarian burger; instead they bring a new perspective altogether.
All of the parterre beds in the garden are edged with the dwarf yew Taxus baccata ‘Repandens’. Already carrying an RHS Award of Garden Merit, it is moderate in size compared with regular yew, with a shorter growth rate. “I think it has great potential,” says Matthew Pottage, the young curator at Wisley.
Berberis
Above: Red, orange and purple berberis are a standout in autumn and early winter.
Of the deciduous varieties, orange Berberis thunbergii ‘Erecta’ is shown here, mid-drop, while its red counterpart Berberis thunbergii ‘Orange Rocket’ competes for attention. An evergreen type is Berberis thunbergii ‘Compacta’, which the trial manager Sean McDill is very happy with. “I like this berberis,” he says. “It has a nice, compact habit and after a couple of clips it has a dense, dark green surface.”
