Boo! It’s an informal Halloween get-together. Who said that kids get to have all the fun? OK, they can come, too.
This year the big day falls on a Thursday, an almost-end-of-the-work-week date that calls for a one-bowl entrée style gathering. A delicious soup can be a festive main course that stands on its own without a side dish.
In two of the soup recipes that follow, the preparation can be done in advance; they can be prepared a day or two ahead, cooled and refrigerated airtight. Keep them warm in a slow cooker if you like. The Italian Savoy Cabbage Soup is an exception. The components for that dish can be prepped the day before, but it requires some last-minute assembly followed by four minutes under the broiler to achieve an appealing brown spotted surface atop a layer of shredded cheese.
Serve in individual soup bowls or coffee mugs. For more generous servings, use large cappuccino cups with large loop handles. No need to set a formal table — this dinner can be portable.
These are soups that would happily warm any mummy’s tummy.
Chipotle, Shrimp and Hominy Tortilla Soup
Tortilla soup becomes party food when augmented with shrimp. This one flavor spikes the broth with a mixture made by pan-toasting spices (cumin seed, whole clove and whole allspice) and then pureeing them with onion, chipotle and a little broth. And of course, the toppings bring delicious flavor to the party: crisp tortilla strips, avocado slices and chopped cilantro. As for the chipotles, adding one makes a broth that is mild; adding two makes a broth that is spicy.
Yield: 10 servings
INGREDIENTS
8 to 10 corn tortillas, cut in half, then cut into 1/4-inch wide strips
2 to 3 tablespoons canola oil or vegetable oil for tortillas, plus 2 tablespoons for soup
Coarse salt, such as kosher salt
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 1/2 large yellow onions, finely chopped, divided use
1 cup finely chopped peeled carrot
1 cup finely chopped celery
6 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican dried oregano
3 whole allspice
1 whole clove
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
7 3/4 cups canned, low-salt chicken broth, divided use
1 to 2 canned chipotle chili plus about 1 tablespoon of adobo sauce
2 teaspoons salt
2 (29-ounces each) cans golden hominy, drained
1/3 cup canned crushed tomatoes with added puree
Salt and/or pepper, if needed
1 pound uncooked small shrimp (51 to 60 per pound size), peeled and deveined
Garnish: 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
2 ripe avocadoes, sliced
For passing: lime wedges
Cook’s notes: Chipotles are ripe jalapeños that have been slowly dried over wood smoke. They may be purchased in many supermarkets in small cans; canned chipotles are surrounded with adobo, a tomato-based sauce.
DIRECTIONS
1. Adjust oven racks to bottom third and top third positions. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a medium bowl, toss tortilla strips with 2 to 3 tablespoons oil. Scatter strips on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Season with coarse salt. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes or so, until crisp and golden, about 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside.
2. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat 2 tablespoons oil on medium heat. Add half of the onion, plus the carrot, celery, garlic and oregano. Cook until vegetables are tender-crisp, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3. Meanwhile, in a small skillet toast the allspice, clove, and cumin seeds. To toast, place skillet on medium-high heat and shake handle frequently. They are toasted when they smell fragrant and the cumin is a shade darker.
4. Place remaining onion in a blender. Add 3/4 cup broth. Add toasted spices, chipotle, adobo sauce (sauce from the can), and salt. Cover and whirl until very finely ground, about two minutes.
5. Add contents of blender to pot with the vegetables. Add remaining broth, hominy and tomatoes. Bring to a simmer on high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover and simmer 30 minutes.
6. Taste and add salt and/or pepper if needed. Add shrimp and simmer until just barely cooked through and opaque in center, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Divide soup among 10 bowls. Top with cilantro, tortilla chips and avocado slices. Pass lime wedges for optional squeezing.
Gingered Carrot Soup
Only a modest amount of dried red pepper flakes is used in this version of a Thai-style carrot soup. Be sure to taste it after it is pureed and adjust the spice level to suit your taste. I like to use Frank’s RedHot because it is a hot sauce that is both spicy and tart.
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, ends trimmed, diced
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3 tablespoons peeled, chopped fresh ginger
1 pound carrots, peeled and chopped
4 1/2 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth
1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
Optional: 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons seasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons smooth peanut butter
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1/2 cup coconut milk
1/2 cup milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Garnish: chopped fresh cilantro, toasted sesame seeds
DIRECTIONS
1. In large pot or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, celery, garlic, ginger and carrots; cook 5-6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent. Add broth, pepper flakes, coriander, turmeric, fish sauce (if using), lime juice, vinegar, peanut butter, brown sugar, sesame oil, and milks; bring to simmer. Cover, reduce heat and simmer 25-30 minutes. Remove from heat, uncover and allow to cool slightly.
2. Process in batches in either food processor fitted with metal blade or blender until smooth. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed.
3. If making ahead, cool the soup and store, airtight in refrigerator until ready to gently reheat.
4. Heat on low until simmering gently. Remove from heat and ladle into soup bowls or cups. Garnish soup with chopped fresh cilantro and pinch of toasted sesame seeds.
Source: “The Wine Lover’s Cookbook”’ by Sid Goldstein (Chronicle, $22.95)
Italian Savoy Cabbage Soup (Zuppa alla Valpellinentze)
This cold-weather dish hails from Valle d’Aosta in the Italian Alps. Arranged in a 9-by-13-inch broiler-proof pan, it looks more like a casserole than a soup. Much of the hot broth, flavored with Savoy cabbage and pancetta, is absorbed by large chunks of dry bread. Bite into the Fontina cheese topped bread and your mouth fills with delectable broth.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
10 to 12 ounces whole hearty rye bread, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes, see cook’s notes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
4 ounces pancetta, cut into small dice
1 onion, halved, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 head Savoy cabbage, about 1 1/2 pounds, cored, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 cups beef broth
2 bay leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
5 ounces fontina cheese, shredded, about 1 cup
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Cook’s notes: This dish requires an uncut loaf of bread. I find it difficult to track down whole loaves of rye bread. I substitute sturdy La Brea Bakery Italian Round, or La Brea Bakery Whole Grain, or La Brea Bakery Country White that are sold at my local Albertson’s market.
DIRECTIONS
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 250 degrees. Spread bread in a single layer on rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until dried and crisp throughout, about 45 minutes; let croutons cool completely.
2. Heat oil and butter in a Dutch oven over medium-low heat until butter melts. Add pancetta and cook until browned and fat is rendered, about 8 minutes. Stir in onion and salt; cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 30 seconds.
3. Stir in cabbage, broth and bay leaves; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until cabbage is tender, about 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. If you want to make the soup a day ahead, you can cool the soup and refrigerate it airtight. Store the dried bread cubes airtight at room temperature. Reheat the soup before proceeding to Step 4.
4. Adjust oven rack to 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Discard bay leaves from the hot soup. Spread half of the cabbage mixture evenly in bottom of a 9-by-13-inch broiler-safe baking dish, then top with half of the bread cubes. Repeat with remaining cabbage mixture and remaining bread cubes. Gently press down on croutons with rubber spatula until thoroughly saturated. Sprinkle with cheese over top and broil until melted and spotty brown, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Source: Adapted from America’s Test Kitchen
Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at @CathyThomas Cooks.com.
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Cathy Thomas
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