Category: Home & Garden

Because spring was late in many places this year, it is likely that most Iris bloom will be crowded into June, except in the South. This will be the case for all types of Iris except the dwarfs and early intermediate bearded Irises whose blossoms will have passed.

Early this month, Iris fanciers may enjoy the gorgeous blossoms of new tall bearded varieties as well as the Siberians which have been greatly improved in recent years. These are followed shortly by the lovely graceful flowers of such beardless types as the Southern species hybrids and spurias. At the end of June the imposing Japanese Iris will command attention everywhere.

Moving Irises now

Fortunately, not much cultural activity is necessary during flowering time. This gives the Iris gardener an opportunity to enjoy the results of his labors and also a chance to visit other people’s gardens and commercial plantings. There, one can note the latest novelties and select varieties to be added to the home collection. If desired, plants can be dug at a nursery while in bloom, taken home, and planted immediately. This can be done without any appreciable harm to the plant, though of course, it is better to wait until the rhizomes have matured in July before lifting and planting.

Cut flower stalks close

As soon as Irises have finished blooming, no matter what type, cut off the flower stalk close to the ground-flush with the top of the rhizome in the case of bearded Iris. This allows more air and light to penetrate into the clump and helps to maintain it in a healthy condition. Likewise, when cutting Iris for home decoration, cut the stalk off close to the ground instead of snipping off sections of the stem near the top. Stems can always be shortened before being arranged.

In June, especially during hot wet spells, watch closely for evidences of rhizome rot, the foul smelling bacterial decay of the root, described last month. Operate on the rhizome, drastically if necessary, to remove all decayed portions and then smear the wound with sulfur or copper carbonate. If the rot has affected several rhizomes in a group, lift the entire clump and replant only the sound rhizomes after letting them dry thoroughly out of the ground for several days.

Any Iris borers that escaped attention in May will by now have penetrated the rhizome and have become sizable worms. There is no choice but to dig up and discard rhizomes thus attacked, otherwise the injury caused by the borer is very likely to bring on rot and cause worse havoc later on.

Thrips and leaf spot

An occasional dusting of Iris plants with sulfur-rotenone in June will help forestall leaf spot on bearded Iris and keep in check any Iris thrips which may be harbored on the leaves of Japanese Iris. On the latter, thrips if prevalent may prevent the blossoms from opening in a normal fashion and the otherwise gorgeous blooms may be much deformed due to the insidious activities of this tiny insect, much the same as with Gladiolus.

With all these admonitions I do not wish to create the impression that Irises are usually plagued with diseases and insects when in fact they are remarkably free of them. However, as the old saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

By F. W. Cassebeer

Spring was a long time coming this year. As a result, it now looks as though a few Peonies will be in bloom north of the Potomac and Ohio Rivers before June. Attention is called to the May Peony Tips, many of which are also applicable to June.

Cultivate often enough to keep weeds down and the soil loose. Water in abundance is necessary for the finest bloom and proper plant development. Remove all faded blooms promptly. Do not allow the seed to mature unless you need it. Trim the plants back slightly to make them more presentable in the summer garden, but never cut them down to the ground until late fall.

Choose varieties now

Blooming time is the best time to select varieties for fall planting. Visit one or more good Peony collections. Choose the types, colors, and habits you like best and buy accordingly. New varieties have been introduced by the hundreds in the past twenty years. Many improvements have been made in singles and Japs. Better colors, better habits, and better bloomers have come.

Insects do little damage to Peonies as a rule. Ants visit the buds because of the honey they exude, and they sometimes carry diseases.

Borers occasionally enter a stalk and cause it to collapse. Damage is usually done before we know the borer is there.

Rose bugs in infested communities do much damage to blooms. Use any remedy you may know. Thrips destroy many blooms, especially the very double late flowers.

Diseases take their toll sometimes. Prevention is the best cure. Clean the landscape grounds and cultivation will do more than adding chemicals to prevent any diseases. Use occasional sprayings of Bordeaux to be on the safe side.

When leaves wilt

Watch your plants and if you see leaves wilting, don’t wait until they discolor and die, but find out the cause. It may be just lack of water. If so, supply it. A mole may have burrowed under your plant and left it suspended in his burrow. Investigate, fill the burrow, and destroy the mole, if possible. One of several root rots may have attacked your plant. Examine the root and if it shows signs of disease, dig the plant, cut out all diseased parts, disinfect the root with formaldehyde, a quarter of a cup to 3 gallons of water, leaving the root in the solution for two or three hours, and plant in fresh soil. Burn the diseased parts of the root. If the plant is very badly affected or an inexpensive one, burn it.

Leaf spot

Several kinds of leaf spot may appear, which Bordeaux will prevent. Diseased leaves should be removed and burned, if they are not too numerous, but do not cut down the leafage too much as these spots do not permanently injure the plant unless they take complete possession of it. Be sure to burn all leaves and stems in the fall. Small oval spots often come on the stems, but they are not fatal. Crowded plants and smothering with weeds are the most frequent causes of diseases of leaves and stems. These causes are easily removed.

White fungus

Often in dry weather, a white fungus-like growth will spread over the roots. This is said not to be dangerous. It was much in evidence last year. But it does affect the stems and crowns, making them look like rotted wood of a yellowish hue. Again, the only remedy is good cultivation and treating infected roots if you wish with the formaldehyde or bichloride solutions.

By G. W. PEYTON

Your lawn is important for many reasons. For one, how your lawn looks can create an impression on your friends and passersby. You’ll have a hard time convincing people that your home is properly maintained if your lawn looks like a complete mess.

If you want to maximize your lawn, but don’t have the time and knowledge to do it, consider hiring local lawn services. Paying for these services might mean additional money from your pocket, but, over time, these are a cost-effective investment as they’re able to provide the following benefits:

1. Avoid Accidental Damage 

Contrary to popular belief, maintaining a lawn will not only require you to water your plants regularly – you should also pay attention to the amount of water being given to your plants, as well as how often these plants should be watered. Not knowing this information can cause disease and even death to your plants. 

For people who have limited lawn care knowledge and no longer have the time to learn from scratch, hiring a lawn care specialist can be a godsend. These contractors have years of experience in taking care of different kinds of plants, allowing them to easily determine the amount of water to give to plants.  

With a lawn care specialist working for you, you’ll have peace of mind, knowing that all the plants in your lawn are in good hands and these continue to thrive for the longest time possible.

2. Less Physical Labor 

Maintaining a lawn requires hard work and a lot of time. This is especially true if you have a very spacious lawn with lots of plants. If you’re not used to lawn maintenance, doing it once can even result in sore muscles and injuries.

Don’t take any chances and hire a lawn care specialist instead. Hiring one can mean less physical labor as you won’t have to work on your lawn by yourself. A lawn care specialist can keep you safe and ensure that your lawn looks good. This is especially important if you’re struggling with mobility issues or are currently ill. 

3. Save Money 

As a homeowner, expect that you’ll have to exert time and effort to keep your property in tiptop condition. You need to allocate enough money so you can pay the bills and afford emergency repairs.  

If you’ll have to take care of your property on a shoestring budget, hiring a lawn care specialist can surely help. Sure, you might need to pay them with your hard-earned money, but consider it as a good investment as you’ll be able to save money from removing diseased and dead plants and trees.

A lawn care specialist also has the necessary equipment to do the job, which means that you don’t have to buy any just to keep your lawn healthy and appealing.  

4. Provide Consistent Care 

Taking care of a lawn requires a long-term commitment. Mowing your lawn once doesn’t guarantee that it will look the same way in the coming weeks and months. Keep in mind that your lawn has different types of plants, and leaving them unattended can eventually lead to clutter in the area.  

For you to continually provide consistent care to your lawn, hire a lawn care specialist. If you work five times a week and spend the weekends with your family, a lawn care specialist can ensure that your lawn receives TLC even when you’re not around. They can ensure that your lawn stays in the best condition while giving you the time and energy to handle your professional and personal responsibilities.  

5. Increased Home Value 

If you have plans of selling your home soon, it’s important to invest in renovation projects that can help increase the value of the property. These projects can help your property stand out from the real estate market and allow you to earn more profit.  

A properly maintained lawn can become your ticket to increasing the value of your property. Your lawn is one of the first things potential homebuyers will see in your property; how it looks can make or break their decision in buying from you.  

If your lawn looks clean, healthy, and green, homebuyers will also think that they can expect the same positive ambiance once they step into your home. This kind of property is usually enough to convince homebuyers to do business with you.  

Make Careful Decisions 

There are many lawn care specialists operating in the world today, which is why you should be careful in choosing. Only pay for a lawn care specialist who has a good track record in the industry to ensure that you’ll be getting value from your hard-earned money! 

When it comes to mowing the lawn, no single tool can maintain your landscape; the tools must complement each other. Mowing the lawn incorporates different landscaping aspects such as fertilizing, cutting the grass, edging, weeding, among other aspects. With the right tools, you can design your landscape without help from landscapers. With the right knowledge and tools, you will have a masterpiece of a landscape, and here are the essential tools in sculpting and growing a unique lawn.

1. Sprinkler System

The lawn needs water, and you can keep the surrounding vegetation hydrated using a sprinkler system. The other alternative would be to wait for rain, and you know how this could go south. Manual watering of the lawn can also be effective, although it’s often tiresome, and as the gardener, you might forget to water the lawn. A good sprinkler system ensures at least 5 inches of soil penetration; therefore, your lawn remains hydrated.

2. Lawn Mowers

A lawnmower is an essential tool that’s ideal for lawn maintenance. Mowers will enable you to maintain the grass length, and it removes weeds or dandelions that crop up. There are two types of lawnmowers; the rotary mowers use high-speed blades to trim the lawn and reel mowers that use laterally mounted blades that scissor the lawn as the wheels rotate. Having the right lawnmower reduces the effort and time spent maintaining the lawn. Tons of resources will guide you on everything about lawns, and you get to review and analyze some of the troybilt riding mowers. Mowers come in different designs; there are gas-powered or cordless mowers. Despite your preference, ensure that you get a quality mower through online reviews.

Since most people are on the lookout for non-polluting lawn mowing alternatives, there has been a resurgence in reel mowers. The mowers are powered by the force applied by the mower when they push the machine. Others prefer gasoline-powered mowers, although they are known to pollute the environment due to oil spills. However, with the right maintenance, reel mowers operate similarly to rotary mowers.

3. Lawn Aerator

Landscapes prefer renting the lawn aerator instead of owning one since soil aeration is often done once a year. The aerator operates using a roller that gets rid of soil and turf; as a result, the soil allows easier penetration of air, water, and nutrients. Consider loaning a lawn aerator from a lawn care service provider, and you will improve the soil quality faster than the traditional weeding technique.

4. Leaf Blowers and a Rake

During the fall, lawns are often filled with leaves; thus, a leaf blower or a rake might come in handy. The leaves are sometimes beautiful, although they wither with time, and this could be devastating for your landscape. You, therefore, have to clear the debris and maintain the glow of the grass. Rakes are old-fashioned, but they equally accomplish the task. On the other hand, you can use an electric or gas-powered leaf blower to accumulate debris then dispose of it later.

5. Rain Gauge

A properly maintained grass lawn requires 2 inches of irrigation or rainwater every week. A rain gauge will help you determine the amount of water that the lawn received. Get a rain gauge and place it on an open spot; don’t place it underneath a shelter or a tree.

6. A Fertilizer Spreader

If you have a dying lawn and a desire to bring it back to life, you have to take drastic measures to ensure that you maintain your lawn. Besides, some lawns are prone to bare or dead spots when they are poorly watered or when your pet plays on some spots. A fertilizer spreader brings back life to the lawn since it’s a faster way to disperse fertilizer all over the lawn. The tool evenly spreads seeds or fertilizer across the lawn without much effort.

7. Sprayer

A sprayer is ideal for applying pesticides to weeds. Sprayers have different designs ranging from a backpack sprayers to battery-powered sprays. Most people prefer the 1-gallon sprayer that has a pump that is effective for treating a small lawn. Look for a wand sprayer that allows you to target specific weeds and one that doesn’t spray too many chemicals. Besides, you will find pesticides and herbicides in a spray pump container; therefore, you can recycle the sprayer.

Everyone desires to have a properly maintained lawn, and with the right tools, you can achieve your goals. The above tools are suited for all lawn chores, and they will enable you to handle your chores faster. Consider reviewing some of the tools from a trusted source before you purchase or rent them.

Weeds are the most annoying thing when it comes to taking care of a lawn. It can make your yard look messy and neglected and it can disturb grass and other plants from growing well too.

Have you tried to remove them, but it’s grown back again? Well, that can happen because you didn’t remove it fully and you have left part of its roots in the ground, you are surrounded with non-landscaped areas and the wind brings the seed to your yard or your lawn is not dense enough and there are some empty spots that invite seeds to settle.

It doesn’t matter what the reasons are once you decide to get rid of it in order to make your yard attractive again. There are several things that you should try, and you will find them out if you read down this article.

Use chemicals

If you aren’t considering the option of removing the weeds manually, you are probably thinking about applying weed killer on your lawn that will get the job done in an instance. Explore the market and find the various options that exist out there. You will see that there are some not that toxic products that are safe for your environment and pets and some more toxic ones that should be your last alternative. If you decide to get a spray, watch you for the weather and make sure it’s not windy if you don’t want to kill any surrounding plants and flowers.

Pull the weed by hand

The key to getting rid of weed by hand is to remove them completely from the ground. Watch out for roots that may remain in the soil. Be careful to hold the weed to its stem and then pull gently. If the root goes deeper in the ground, use a tool that will loosen the surrounding soil and then pull again. If you are considering buying a special tool that will make the job easier for you, ask for a garden hoe or a winged weeder.

Use a landscape fabric

Have you heard about this method that prevents weed from growing in a wonderful and natural way? Ask at the nearby hardware store for this fabric that blocks the sun and prevents unwanted weeds and plants from growing. It’s great that you can cut holes around the plants that you would love to thrive and that the fabric lets water, air and other nutrients get to the soil. Think about spots that are hard to mow or any flower beds and apply the fabric that it’s a long-lasting solution to your weed problem.

Use a weed preventer

Once you have got rid of the weed it’s the best to use a weed preventer that will keep you safe for at least three months. It can come in the form of granules that you can dispense around flowers, plants, trees and bushes or it can come together with a fertilizer which will give you more benefits at once.

Implement natural methods

These methods work great for areas that are not affected that much with weed. One way is to pour boiling water over the weed which will kill it instantly. Another way is to use vinegar. Vinegar can help you with your weed problems as well, so if you decide to use it make sure you buy one with a higher strength and watch out not to apply it over other plants.

What are your picks?

Have you already tried some of these ways to get rid of weeds and did they prove to be effective? What are you going to use next in order to enjoy your weed-free lawn?

Is your lawn turning into mud after a bad winter? Is the grass always wet under your feet? Your lawn may have problems with drainage. This is something that is very common and thankfully, it is an issue that you can fix yourself without having to get professional help. There are a number of ways you can improve the drainage of your lawn. So, let’s take a look at them and what might be the best option for you.

Reasons for Bad Drainage

There are many reasons why your yard might be experiencing bad drainage. First of all, let’s see what these reasons are so that you can understand the problem.

Incorrect Automatic Sprinklers

If you have a large lawn, you probably have automatic sprinklers. This is going to give your grass the water it needs after a day of sunshine. Just as too little water can be a problem for your lawn, so can too much water. Indeed, if you have an automatic sprinkler that is giving your grass too much water, this can cause pooling. This might be how your lawn is so wet under your feet and becoming muddy. If you think this might be the root of your problem, try watering your lawn less to see if this makes a difference to the drainage.

Bad Grading

Perhaps your poorly draining lawn is not your fault or due to any of your actions. In fact, it could be caused by the builders of your home. Bad grading of your yard can mean that water slope to areas of your lawn. This is especially true if there is no water outlet present. For example, if you have low points in your backyard that are pooling with water, this might be caused by bad grading.

Compacted Soil and Thatch

If the soil underneath your lawn is compacted, this is going to mean that water drainage is slow or non-existent. We have some solutions if this is the problem. In addition, you want to ensure that there is no thatch build-up on your lawn. This can also mean that the water finds it hard to drain through.

Heavy Clay Soil

Does your yard have heavy clay soil? This is often the cause of a badly draining lawn. Rainfall and water are not able to pass through clay soil as easily. So, when it is wet, it becomes heavy and muddy. Unfortunately, this causes bad drainage problems, especially if this is what is underneath your whole lawn. One way you can improve this is by trying to mix the clay soil with manure and garden compost. This can help with drainage. Our other drainage solutions below are also going to be beneficial.

Ways to Improve Your Drainage

Everybody wants a luscious and green lawn. So, if you are having problems with your drainage, this is going to be frustrating. But the good news is that there are ways you can improve drainage. Plus, they are do not always have to cost a fortune either. So, let’s take a look at ways to improve your drainage.

Aerate the Lawn

One of the easiest ways you can improve the drainage for your lawn is through aeration. This process of spiking the grass allows air to get into the soil. This can help if your lawn gets waterlogged during bad weather. It is a simple task that you can do on your own. There are aerators that you can buy to run over the grass and this will create small holes. You can then fill them with sharp sand to help with the drainage. This can help to avoid the soil becoming compacted. If you are on a budget, you can also create holes in your lawn with a fork.

Install a Land Drain

Is your lawn bad after every storm or after a long winter? Perhaps it is time to take drastic action and install a land drain. This is a process that can allow water to move through the soil more efficiently. It will involve digging a trench so that you can insert the land drain. If your lawn is very bad, you will need to create several trenches. The purpose of the drain will be to move the water and channel it to a part of your lawn that has better soil or to a ditch. However, If you are looking for a quick solution, one which will not impinge on your Netflix, TV or online casino time, then this might not be it. It will take some time but it can be done without a professional. However, if you prefer spending your time with leisure activities, call in a professional.

Create a Ditch

Another way you can improve the drainage of your lawn is to create a ditch at the lowest point. This allows for a place for the rainwater to run off after a bad storm. It will prevent it from just sitting on top of your lawn. This is the best technique if your lawn is on a slope. Therefore, you can dig a ditch and allow for the water to gather somewhere that is away from where you are in the yard. You can add decorative stones so that the ditch looks nice or add bark chippings. In particular, bark chippings are good at absorbing moisture and it can help to provide drainage away from your lawn or existing plants.

Enjoy More Plants

When you have a waterlogged lawn, one way you can help the soil is by having more plants. Thus, choose to dig up part of your grass and choose some new plants to take its place. Not only will this look good, but it is going to help prevent your lawn from being too wet. For example, cornus alba and hydrangea macrophylla are good shrubs for wet soils. They are going to help take away some of the water from the lawn. In addition, actaea and hosta are recommended perennials too. This can be an affordable way to solve your lawn problems and grow beautiful plants at the same time. Just ensure that you do your research and find plants that can survive in wet conditions. Indeed, there are some plants that do not like a lot of water or living in the shade.

Add Grit Sand to Your Soil

Do you have clay soil? Do you think this is the reason why you are experiencing drainage problems? Instead of digging up your whole yard and replacing the soil, you can add grit sand to it. This is going to help with the drainage and ensure that water can run through the soil. This might take a lot of work if you have grass. But it can be worth it if it provides a long-term solution to your drainage problems.

How to Lay New Turf

If your drainage issues were really bad, you may have to lay new turf down after you have fixed the problem. This is something that you can do by yourself. All you need is a few tools and materials to get started.

Prepare the Area

First of all, start by removing any old turf and preparing the area for a new lawn. This is going to include leveling out the ground, as well as removing any debris or stones. You can also throw on some topsoil in order to make the ground better for your grass and to level it out. You can do this with a rake. You then want to compress the ground and ensure that it is firm for laying the turf.

Lay the Turf

Now it is time to lay your rolls of turf. This is the fun part! Take your rolls and lay them out flat onto the soil. It is best to overlap the edges slightly so that you can get an even lawn. You can easily cut off any turf that you do not need. This can be done simply with a spade. Make sure that all of your turf is flat and making contact with the soil. This is going to ensure that it grows properly.

Water Your New Lawn

It is going to be important to keep watering your new turf on a regular basis. You should do this every day for several weeks. This is going to allow the turf to grow and establish itself. In particular, if there is hot weather, ensure the lawn is always moist so that it does not dry out and die.

Wait Until It is 3cm in Height

Once you have laid your turf and waited a few weeks, you are going to be eager to mow the lawn for the first time. The best time to do this is when the grass is at least 3cm high. This is going to ensure that it has had enough time to establish itself. Then you can mow the lawn and enjoy having fresh green grass with better drainage.

Is your lawn looking patchy after the hot summer months? Would you like to improve the health of your grass? The best thing you can do for a high-quality lawn is to reseed. This is going to allow you to enjoy a superior lawn that is the best in the neighborhood. You can cover bare spots or simply make your grass look greener. But when is the best time to reseed? Let’s take a look.

Start in the Fall

Many people not au fait with gardening assume that the best time to reseed their lawn is during the summer. This is due to the warmer temperatures. However, it is actually going to be best to start this process during the early fall months. The temperature of the soil is still warm for germination and there is also a slightly cooler air temperature. This is going to allow the growth of the seeds.

Another reason to consider fall is that there are fewer weeds around. They act as competition for grass seeds that are trying to grow during the summer. But you are going to find fewer weeds during the fall.

Things to Do Prior to Reseeding

The early fall is the time of the year when you want to spend more time in the house. The nights are getting longer and all you want to do is relax in the evenings. Fall is the time of year when families tend to start spending more time together at home. For example, with the increased time at home, some people like to watch television, some prefer streaming movies from Netflix while others enjoy playing at an online casino. Others may be drawing up Christmas gift lists while still others take the time to hibernate, much like their grizzly bear cousins. But in the main, the Fall is a time for tidying up the garden and closing everything down for the onset of winter.

Back to the gardening, there are some tasks you will have to do first if you want your lawn to look good over the winter. Before you reseed, make sure that you mow your lawn. In particular, you want the grass very short around where you are going to reseed. This is going to ensure that the seeds are going to get enough sunlight and will not be shaded. It will avoid any competition. In addition, remove any debris and grass clippings from the area. All of this is going to help make reseeds a lot easier and more successful. Then you are going to be ready to begin the process of reseeding your lawn to make it look attractive.

How to Reseed Your Lawn

In order to reseed your lawn, first, you have to prepare the area. In other words, you need to get rid of any weeds that are existing on your grass. You want to get rid of the roots so that they do not come back. Again, this is about reducing the competition for the grass seeds and ensuring they are ready to grow. Then in the spots, you want to reseed, you can sprinkle some new soil to create the perfect place for grass seeds to grow. All that is left is to scatter your grass seeds evenly over the area. A lot of people think that the more grass seed they use, the thicker their grass will be. This is not necessarily true. Sprinkle a modest about of seeds of the area.

Once your grass seeds are on the soil, you will want to water them. The soil should be damp for growth and this is something that you will have to do every day. This might be more than once a day, depending on where you live and how much sunshine there is. The soil always has to be moist. In order for the seeds to grow, you may have to cover them up with a sheet. This is going to stop birds from coming into your yard and snacking on them. It saves all of your hard work going to waste.

What is Overseeding a Lawn?

When we are talking about reseeding a lawn, we are referring to areas where it has died or become patchy. It is usually in a specific area rather than everywhere over your lawn. You are just repairing the damage caused by dogs, children or the weather. But you may be wondering what is meant when someone says they are ‘overseeding’. Essentially, this is something that you can also to do improve the appearance of your lawn. But it normally covers a larger area on established grass.

Overseeding your lawn has a lot of benefits. For example, if you are having a problem with a bare lawn or thin grass, overseeding can allow your yard to thicken out. In other words, it can look thick and luscious when the seeds have grown. Overseeding involves scattering new seeds among your already established lawn. In addition, overseeding can also make your grass appear greener and reduce weeds.

Just like reseeding, this process is best done during the early fall months. This will allow germination to take place, which can happen in as little as seven days. Depending on the conditions, germination can take 21 days. If the temperature in your area is 13 degrees Celsius or above, this is going to allow the seeds to germinate. The preparation and process are the same as reseeding and it is something everybody has the ability to do.

Reseeding Versus Turfing

If you are not happy with your lawn and how it looks, you have two options. You can reseed your lawn or you can choose to purchase new turf. Both are likely to achieve the same outcome but there are some factors that are going to dictate the best option for you.

Let’s start by thinking about the cost. The ground preparation that is involved in reseeding and turfing is going to be the same. So, you are going to spend the same amount of money, to begin with. But there will be a difference when it comes to the rest of the materials. Namely, it is going to cost you more money to purchase new turf. You will normally pay per square meter and the price will vary depending on the type of grass you want and its quality. If you have a large backyard, this could end up being very costly to lay the turf. On the other hand, grass seed is relatively inexpensive. You can cover a large area at half of the price. There are different types of grass seeds so this can change your budget slightly. But it is a more economical way to achieve a fantastic lawn.

One of the factors you will really want to consider is time. Ask yourself; how long do you want to wait to see results? How quickly do I want to use my lawn again? If you are someone that is patient and is willing to wait for an attractive lawn, reseeding is going to be fine for you. It takes a couple of weeks for the grass to begin to grow. But it can be a whole six months to one year before you should walk on these areas. Thus, you will need to keep your pets and children away from the reseeded areas until they are established and strong. This is totally different from when you lay turf. This turf has been specially grown by a professional for 12 months at least. It has been nurtured and it is very healthy. In other words, it is ready to establish on your lawn within three to six weeks. You will be able to use your backyard after this time since the professional has already done all of the hard work for you.

What’s more, reseeding has to be done in early Fall. The seeds are not going to germinate throughout the winter due to the temperature changes. This can restrict when you have to restrict your lawn. But the great thing about turf is that it can be done at any time of the year. As long as the soil is not frozen, your backyard is ready for turf to establish itself. So, if a problem happens during the other seasons, you can easily fix it and not have to wait until the Fall.

Therefore, if you are looking for a quick solution that allows you to fix your lawn and use it quickly, turfing is going to be the best option for you. But you will have to be prepared to pay more money. However, if you want to be more economical and you have a larger lawn, reseeding can be preferred. While it can take a whole year until your lawn is established and strong, it can be rewarding to see the process. Plus, if you only have small areas that you want to fix, using grass seeds can be all you need.

Is A Robotic Lawn Mower Right For My Backyard?

Most of us dread mowing the lawn during the summer. The mere thought of pushing your gas-powered across the yard under the sticky, hot weather every other week is exhausting. Also, if your weekdays are always loaded with work, you’d rather relax and unwind over the weekend than trim grass. But it’s a quintessential yard work that you can’t keep on ignoring. 

Fortunately, there’s a smart way to go about this. A robotic lawn mower can take away the pain, time, and hassle that comes with lawn care. This battery-operated machine is a smarter and quieter option. It can learn the ins and outs of your backyard and cut grass quickly to the exact height on your preferred schedule. 

But are robot lawn mowers worth it? Do they live up to the hype? Keep on reading to find out if it truly is the answer to your summer dilemma.

What Are Robotic Lawn Mowers 

It’s pretty tiring to mow your lawn for hours. Meanwhile, paying a professional to keep your yard in tip-top shape can put a dent in your wallet. Hence, it’s quite enticing to invest in a robot mower to do the painstaking task for you. 

Robot lawn mowers are available in various shapes and sizes. Setting up and programming these devices is relatively easy. They are also very quiet in comparison to traditional lawn mowers since they run using rechargeable battery packs. That means you’ll be able to let your robot do its job and not worry about disturbing your neighbors. 

How Do They Work?

Similar to robovacs, a robotic lawn mower will begin its initial cycle by mapping out your backyard and works through perimeter wire. This will ensure that the robot stays only on your lawn. Once done mapping, it will return to the base station and wait for its real first mowing job.

Using a power button or a mobile phone app, you prompt your robot to maneuver around your backyard, trimming grass. It will be able to stay within the path it mapped out and avoid obstacles with the help of its sensors and guided by the perimeter wire. 

Most robotic mowers have a floating deck design, allowing you to adjust their cutting height. Some units come with either a single blade or multiple blades while some have a spinning disc configured with razor blades. The blades will chop the grass very finely so that when it rains or you water your lawn, it seeps into the soil. Usually, the cutting width ranges from seven inches to about two feet, depending on your mower’s size.

However, all these conveniences and high-tech abilities do not come cheap. And if you want more features such as Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connectivity, anti-theft sensors, flexible scheduling, and mobile app, get ready to pay even more. On top of that, units for larger yards with steep grades and the ability to avoid obstructions like trees and flower beds have a higher price tag.

So before making any purchase, it’s a good idea to do your research first and learn more about the units you’re eyeing.

What Are Robot Mowers Good At?

Your yard will look much better

In comparison to a traditional mower, a robotic lawn mower is designed to trim grass more frequently. It will cut the grass in small lengths with the help of its sharp blades. This means that the grass will be cut instead of knocking the top off as most rotary lawn mowers do. Also, it does not collect clippings. Instead, it will mulch them by returning the clippings to your lawn, giving the growing grass nutrients. Therefore, the grass will not experience much stress, enabling it to remain much greener and healthier. 

You never have to mow the lawn yourself

One of the main reasons homeowners opt for a robotic lawn mower is the convenience it offers. With it, you don’t have to cut the grass of your garden weekly throughout the growing season. If you have a busy life and you have small kids, you will not have time to do this every weekend. Once you’re done with the initial setup of your robot, you’ll be satisfied watching it as it works its way around your yard. 

Safer to use

Their safety features far exceed those of the conventional models. The blades they use to cut the grass are much smaller and lower-powered. What’s more, you don’t have to interact with the blades while your robot mower is operating. Additionally, the lift and tilt sensors will shut down the blades instantly when you intentionally or accidentally lift your unit.

According to manufacturers, no one has been rushed to the emergency room from using a robot lawn mower. On the other hand, traditional lawn mowers have a poor safety record. In fact, in the US alone, there are more than 80,000 lawn mower-related injuries recorded every year.

Works out cheaper in the long run

The initial cost of robot law mowers is often higher than traditional mowers. However, they can work out cheaper over time because of lesser maintenance requirements and lower operating costs. If you hire a gardener to trim the grass in your yard, the payback time is usually as little as 1 year. 

Things To Consider Before Purchasing A Robot Lawn Mower

Over the last few years, we’ve seen significant growth in the robot mowers market. You can expect it to grow steadily as manufacturers improve their technology. 

These smart devices are innovating constantly and at a rapid pace and new models are being integrated with new and upgraded features. Nevertheless, there are key features that you need to consider before deciding on which best robotic lawn mower is suitable for you and your garden’s needs.

Law and battery size

One of the most crucial factors that will affect your decision is the size and shape of your lawn. A lot of entry-level units have smaller battery packs designed to handle small to medium-sized gardens. Usually, they can trip up to 400 square meters. On the other hand, larger robots can take care of lawns with a size of up to 3000 square meters or even more. 

If you have a massive lawn, it will require a unit with larger batteries combined with a more powerful motor. Husqvarna has a range of Autopower robotic mowers specifically made for those looking for a top-notch automatic lawn mower that is worth checking out.

A mower with larger cutting blades is also a good idea along with more advanced software. But keep in mind that this will have a higher price tag in comparison to an entry-level model.

The inclination slope the robotic lawn mower can handle

How powerful the motor of a robot is will impact its speed and the amount of area it can manage. If your garden has steeper gradients, it is advisable to opt for a model with a powerful motor. Although entry-level units can handle very steep slopes, they don’t work well in hilly gardens.

If your lawn is quite steep, determine its slope first before buying one to make sure you get a model that can handle it. 

Controls

The majority of robot mowers feature a control panel that lets you adjust variables, including cutting hours and days. You can even adjust the height of their blades as well. Meanwhile, more high-tech units come with smart features and Wi-Fi connectivity, allowing you to control and monitor your robot via your smart gadget. 

Furthermore, you can find some models equipped with weather sensors. That means they have the ability to avoid trimming grass in wet or rainy conditions. There are even those that will notify you when they are stuck somewhere in your garden. Keep in mind that cheaper models have fewer features. Nonetheless, they can still execute the task at hand decently.

Safety features

Every robotic lawn mower has several safety features. These prevent people and pets from getting injured and unexpected items from getting damaged while the robot is at work. You can also program these devices to stop when they accidentally hit an obstruction. Usually, they will back up, turn, and move away from it. 

But these safety features differ from one model to the next and among manufacturers. So make sure to look at this more in detail.

Security features

When on the market for an automatic robot mower, it’s also vital to consider its security features. Almost all of them allow you to set a PIN code lock and a lot come with alarm features. Premium and newer units even come with a GPS tracker. 

If your yard is not secure and intruders can easily access it, these features are especially crucial. Most manufacturers can even blacklist your robot if it has been stolen, making it impossible for the thief to use it.

Although surrounding your home with
a lush, beautiful lawn may be something you dream of each spring as the warm
weather arrives, you may find it takes a great deal of effort to maintain if
you don’t have the right type of seed, watering techniques, or nutrient
schedule. There are distinct differences in the requirements of cool grasses
and warm grasses, and some types of grasses love heat while others burn or die
back in higher temperature areas. The list below can assist you in choosing the
right type of regional grass seeds to help you grow the best lawn for the
longest time your season allows.

Northeast Area

The Northeast has high humidity,
cold winters, and cool summers which can challenge many types of plants,
including lawn grasses. For the best-looking lawns with the greenest blades,
choose a seed that thrives in cool temperatures.

The most popular choice of grass seed that can survive the harsh cold and fierce northern winters is the Kentucky bluegrass. The fine-textured blades are rooted in a system of shallow tendrils that spread aggressively but can survive the long cold winters of the northeast area. Ryegrass is also popular among northern growers because of its cold tolerance and ability to thrive in the heat.

Southeast Area

The Southeast is known for its high
humidity and hot summers because much of the area borders the Atlantic
seaboard. Look for warm-season grass seeds that can tolerate the high heat,
salty air, and summer droughts.

Bermuda grass seed is an aggressive spreading seed that provides a dark, thick green lawn. A perfect companion to the Bermuda seed is the ryegrass which can be used to overseed for lovely green grass during the winter when the Bermuda grasses go into hibernation and turn brown. When the weather turns warm again, the ryegrass dies back, and Bermuda suddenly springs back to life.

Midwest Area

The Midwest is the heartland of America with varying levels of humidity and a cool growing season. With the intense fluctuations throughout the region, Ohio grass needs more irrigation than other grasses in other regions do.

Bluegrass, fescues, and ryegrasses
are the stars of the region because of their ability to tolerate the Midwestern
bright sun while enduring the cool areas as well. Using disease and insect
resistant seeds are important in the Midwest and finding a variety of seed that
returns lush and green after a fierce winter can be difficult. However, if you
are willing to water your grass often, the ryegrass can give you a lovely lawn
year after year.

Deep South Area

The Deep South includes the Gulf
Coast region of the United States where the humidity is high, and the heat is
too. Ranging between areas of extreme drought, heavy summer storms, and blazing
hot sun, the grass seed for this area needs to be tolerant and durable.

Homeowners in the Deep South look
for low-maintenance grass seeds that can resist the pests and diseases often
rampant in the area. Since the Gulf Coast features heavy salt air, the grass
must be durable and tolerant. Bahia grass and centipede have proven themselves
with an ability to be drought resistant while still staying a lovely green year
around. Both varieties do require additional water for long life.

Pacific Northwest Area

Cool and arid, the Pacific Northwest
region allows cool grasses to thrive, but the often-wet climate can encourage
diseases and pests to flourish in area lawns. Much of the inland areas require
additional irrigation to keep the grasses luxuriant and green.

In the northern coastal areas, tall
fescues and bluegrasses are chosen for their ability to resist the salty air,
cool temperatures, and high humidity. Further inland, ryegrasses are selected
because of their resistance to lawn pests, mold, and diseases.

Southwest Area

Hot blasts of air within the
Southwest’s arid area present a challenge for almost every type of grass. With
high temperatures, alkaline soil, harsh sunlight, and varying elevations, the
only thing consistent about this region is the warmth.

With enough water, Bermuda grass can
thrive in the area, though it will require overseeding for winter-green lawns.
Fescue is sometimes considered a good match in the Southwest, but it requires
twice as much water and isn’t good in heat saturated areas.

Use the list of areas above to find the right grass seed for
your region. You can have a lush, beautiful lawn no matter where you live.

Lawn care is an essential part of responsible home maintenance. Not only is being attentive to your grass’s needs crucial to its long-term health, but it’s also highly conducive to accentuating the beauty of your home. When people walk by your residence, the condition of your lawn is among the first things they notice, so if you’re interested in making a favorable first impression, lawn care should not be regarded as an afterthought. Homeowners who strive to keep their lawns clean, healthy and looking their best should consider the following pointers.

Limit Lawn Clutter

Even if your lawn is
meticulously maintained, its healthy appearance can be adversely impacted by the presence of clutter. Lawn-based clutter is particularly common in
homes with small children. Kids tend to leave messes wherever they go, and
lawns are hardly an exception. In addition to encouraging your family members
to pick up after themselves, make a point of thoroughly scanning your lawn for
clutter before mowing. Certain objects can present safety hazards if they find
their way into a mower, so take care to be as eagle-eyed as possible when
carrying out these cleanups.  

Excessive foot traffic
can lead to patchiness, discoloration and uneven growth on certain types of
grass. If your lawn is vulnerable to the ravages of foot traffic, make a point
of limiting direct contact with the grass and encourage other members of your
household to heed your example. However, as any parent can attest, this can
sometimes prove challenging for households with small children. While there’s
no way to keep little kids off the grass entirely, you can help minimize the
amount of time they spend on it by creating a designated outdoor play area for
them. Not only will this provide your little ones with a clearly-defined play
space, it’s also likely to diminish the appeal of running around on the lawn in
their eyes.     

Mow as Needed

Consistent mowing is one of the tenets of good lawn care.
However, it’s important to note that most lawns are mowed far more often than
they need to be. Additionally, many people opt to keep their mowers on the
lowest possible setting. While wanting to keep your lawn nice and short is
certainly understandable, excessive shortness leaves the grass blades
vulnerable to the elements and ensures that they’re ill-equipped to retain
water and assorted nutrients. With this in mind, look up the ideal length for
your type of grass and adjust your mower settings accordingly.

Although many homeowners mow their lawns on a set schedule, this often leads to over-mowing. For example, just because you’ve gotten into the groove of mowing once a week doesn’t mean that your lawn actually needs you to do so. During its prime growing season, your lawn may need to be mowed once or twice a week, but outside of this period, you may only need to get out the mower once or twice a month. So even if it’s a designated mowing day, there’s no need to fire up the mower if the grass is already an acceptable length.    

Fertilize Regularly  

Fertilization is a great way to provide your lawn with essential nourishment all year long. Additionally, depending on the type of grass you have, you may only need to perform this task once a year. If this isn’t a chore you have much experience with, reach out to a professional lawn fertilization service. The right company will help you determine the best type of fertilizer for your grass and work with you to create the perfect fertilization schedule. If your grass is delicate or temperamental, look for a company that offers custom lawn fertilization plans.   

Lawn care should be among the foremost maintenance priorities for any responsible homeowner. A vibrant, well-kept lawn can add character to your home and help accentuate its aesthetic strong points. On the flip side, a lawn that’s patchy, discolored or overgrown can put a noticeable damper on an otherwise lovely residence. Fortunately, tending to your lawn doesn’t have to eat up a great deal of time or money. Putting the previously discussed tips to good use can prove invaluable in your efforts to preserve the health of your grass.  

Everyone likes a little privacy. We want to feel like at least some part of our garden is a private oasis, a place where we can go to relax and leave the cares of the world behind. That doesn’t necessarily mean building a fortress of walls around your yard. In fact, there are many creative options for privacy screening.

Editor’s Note: updated for 2022!

Here are some things to consider as you begin. First, what are your screening needs?

• Do you prefer a formal hedge or plantings that blend into the landscape?

• Do you need to cover the entire length of your property line or will you screen only one area?

• Do you want to block views from overhead, such as from a neighbor’s deck or windows?

When you have determined your basic screening needs, ask yourself a few more questions:

Don’t forget to consider multiple angles of coverage as well. View the site from different angles to be sure you are covered from all sides.

You may also want to think about a temporary solution while waiting for your plants to fill in, such as bamboo or brush fencing.

Formal Hedges

On a dense-foliage rhody (or any dense plant), if you shorten all the tallest leaders you will likely open up bare spots — open areas with bare branches and little foliage that were previously shaded out by what you have just removed. In time, these will resprout and fill in but it can take a year or several, depending on the type and vigor of the plant.

With any major reducing, restoring or rejuvenating, we recommend to avoid (if possible) doing this all at once. If you can spread the job over two or three years you might minimize the bare or chopped look and the overreactive regrowth.

For example, you could do releadering on maybe 1/3 or 1/2 the number of tallest leaders, so the top layer is thinned out but not totally removed. Then after a year or two with the lower layers growing in, you can cut back the rest of the top layer. But remember: it may still react to a major reduction over time. Unnatural pruning creates a high-maintenance plant.

Older rhodies can develop quite a leggy habit, especially after years of being crowded by neighboring plants, struggling under dense trees, or just having aged a long time without any pruning attention. Others may suffer low vigor from poor drainage, depleted soil, or other stresses.

Restorative pruning can make quite a difference, along with improving the watering, mulching, and fertilizing of a struggling plant. If the shrub is heavily shaded (unless it’s possible to thin out overhead trees), blooming might always be sparse. And although these methods can help revive most shrubs, some might have deeper health issues and not sprout as well.

A leggy habit is long, tangled, bare branches with few leaves or flowers out on the tips. Restoring a more balanced branching pattern and redirecting growth energy back into foliage and blooming often takes a combination of thinning, untangling/reweaving, and heading back some bare branches.

THE NUMBERS: N-P-K

The three numbers you see on most fertilizers are the analysis of essential elements, or “macronutrients” in the fertilizer and include:

• N – Nitrogen: The most basic element essential to plant life, evident in the growth of foliage.

• P – Phosphorus: Fosters flower and fruit production.

• K – Potassium: (Latin term: Kalium) Supports root development, overall vigor, and disease resistance.

The numbers are the percentage of these macronutrients within the total mix, so 6-3-4 indicates 6%-3%-4% respectively, of N-P-K. Most fertilizers include a balance of these three, but some are skewed toward one for a specific purpose. Examples are E.B. Stone® Organics Lawn Food, (10-1-4), or Espoma® Flower Tone Bloom Booster, (3-4-5).

For most (and especially newer) gardeners, we encourage using balanced fertilizers with all three macronutrients included. But there are some preferences among different plant types:

• Green, leafy plants such as lawns and salad greens are generally heavy feeders of nitrogen.

• Fruiting plants such as tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons like a balance of nutrients but need fairly frequent feeding.

• Perennials, trees and shrubs (incluing fruiting types) also prefer a balance of nutrients but at lower or less-frequent levels.

Higher numbers indicate higher concentrations of these elements. Is that better for your plants? Not necessarily. They are often found in synthetic fertilizers, such as lawn food with high nitrogen. High concentrations can bring quick, dramatic results, such as quick greening of your heavy-feeding lawn for that summer wedding. But the effect can be temporary and not so good for long-term health. If applied too heavily or not sufficiently watered in, high-number fertilizers can “burn” plants similar to salt toxicity. In most cases, it’s best to add nutrients slowly for the long term. For a healthy lawn, supplement it in fall and spring with a slower release lawn food.

So look for the proportion of the numbers, rather than their volume.

The package ingredients might also list several “micronutrients” such as calcium and magnesium. A deficiency of one or a combination of these can cause problems. When diagnosed, they can often be corrected by adding single ingredient fertilizers or supplements. If not in combination fertilizers, you can find them in specialized products such as magnesium sulfate or dolomite lime (calcium carbonate).

“What do you think of No Mow May?”

The question, asked by a garden friend, caught me by surprise because I’d only seen the phrase once before in a British gardening magazine. 

Turns out I’ve been missing the boat because my state of Wisconsin has been at the forefront of the No Mow May movement for a few years. Two years ago, Appleton became the first U.S. city to officially adopt the initiative started in England that asks people not to mow their lawns during May to provide flowers for pollinators.

I’m sorry to say that my answer to my garden friend’s question is not positive. I think No Mow May is a well-intentioned movement that has the potential to backfire in the U.S., making the short- and long-term benefits highly questionable.

The promotional material for No Mow May (yes, it’s big enough that there is official marketing) shows romantic flowing grasses with beautiful wildflowers buzzing with bees rising above. I don’t want to burst anyone’s bubble, but those beautiful wildflowers don’t just pop up in a lawn from not mowing for a month, at least not in much of the country. 

What will pop up in my neck of the woods is mostly dandelions, which are not native to North America, and perhaps some clover and flowering creeping Charlie. And yes, these flowers will attract pollinators, although the benefit to them is questionable. 

Native bees do the lion’s share of pollinating important crops, not the non-native honey bee, according to a peer-reviewed report by Christy Stewart, of the University of Wisconsin’s Agricultural Research Unit. And dandelions are not a great food source for these bees, which benefit more from the pollen of native trees and shrubs that flower earlier than dandelions.

Where I think No Mow May will go wrong is the repercussions of all those flowering weeds, which will, of course, proliferate a neighborhood causing a carpet of dandelions that might be beautiful to some and an eyesore to others. Neighborly relations may not be up for that kind of stress these days.

Some homeowners who pride themselves on a perfect lawn will likely increase their herbicide applications to counteract a burgeoning dandelion population and even some No Mow May participants may, in time, tire of the look and resort to drastic measures to have a “good-looking” lawn again. And if there’s one thing that’s worse than hungry pollinators, it’s dead pollinators poisoned by herbicides.

The No Mow May movement has gotten some traction in its English home, but there are some cultural differences that I think make acceptance of the initiative on a wide scale a steeper hill to climb in the U.S. Lawns here are just bigger, and as a culture we have a far deeper appreciation of a wide expanse of perfect lawn (something I’ve never come close to achieving and don’t really care) that will be hard to get past.

A far better approach would be to encourage homeowners to turn a small patch of lawn into a proper native wildflower garden that will feed wild bees from spring through fall and be far more attractive than a shaggy lawn full of weeds. And, of course, to stop applying herbicides to their lawn. Or plant native trees that provide more food for pollinators than any lawn could. Or to incorporate native plants into their existing gardens.

The point is that there are a lot of ways to support pollinators, particularly important native species, that will have more impact than keeping the lawn mower under lock and key for a month.

They just need a catchy name and a marketing plan.

 

A version of this article originally appeared in Ozaukee Press.

 

What more can we ask from a gardening book than to be inspirational and education? Two new books with more than a little in common manage to strike the right balance of both, complimenting each other, much as the personalities of these enthusiastic and generally delightful gardeners do.

Claus Dalby, the Danish gardener known for his stunning pot displays, and Linda Vater, a popular Oklahoma City gardener with a knack for garden style, dish up a pair of books from Cool Springs Press that are perfect for the start of the gardening season.

Dalby has several  books to his credit but Containers in the Garden is his first published in English, much to the delight of his English-speaking fans around the world. It gets to the heart of his signature abundant container design style, one oft repeated but rarely as successfully as he does.

All of the tips and tricks Dalby employs for his growing method are shared, including how to successfully overwinter bulbs in pots, something many gardeners struggle with. The trick, he says, is to put them in a protected spot where they won’t receive water during the winter (after they are watered in during planting). Once they start popping out of the soil they can come out into the light and watering can resume.

Dalby’s method is to plant most pots—his collection of beautiful terra cotta pots is impressive—with a single type of plant, then create mixed arrangements by mixing and matching pots. This allows him to swap out plants where the display is waning for something fresh or make new arrangements many times throughout the growing season. 

He’s an equal opportunity planter, filling pots with bulbs, annuals, perennials, vines and even trees or shrubs, and then blending them all together for a stunning show.

Dalby is particularly adept at focusing on monochromatic color schemes rich in texture, employing, for example, chartreuse Japanese maples with yellow daffodils and white tulips for a fresh spring display.

Mimicking Dalby’s methods throughout the season would be difficult for most gardeners to pull off. Amassing what must be thousands of terra cotta pots surely was accomplished over decades, and he has the benefit of greenhouses and a couple gardeners to help with the time-intensive job of planting all those pots, sowing seeds and moving them all around.

But there is plenty of information that will have gardeners reaching for the book often. Dalby is a master of using interesting plants in simple ways, and his color palettes spread throughout the book in glorious large photos are themselves a treasure trove of inspiration. Since Dalby’s method of clustering pots is akin to a deconstructed mixed container planting, the same plants can be mixed and matched in large containers to great effect.

In one such display, for instance, Dalby combines Amaranthus ‘Hopi Red Dye’, chocolate Cosmos, Persicaria ‘Red Dragon’, purple wild carrot and Japanese painted fern for a rich and dark color palette. 

It’s those creative combinations that truly make the difference in Dalby’s displays, and you don’t need a pair of gardeners to pull them off. 

While Dalby’s book is excellent for providing inspiration on a specific style, Vater’s book The Elegant and Edible Garden paints with a broader brush, focusing more on helping gardeners find and refine their garden style.

Vater, whose structured potager garden is instantly recognizable by her legion of followers on social media, helps readers pull a garden concept, particularly one that incorporates edible plants in with flowers and shrubs, into a cohesive space.

Although she gardens in a relatively small yard in a historic neighborhood, Vater manages to pack vegetables and herbs alongside all other types of plants in her garden a way that any gardener can take inspiration from. She relies heavily on symmetry and yearlong structure, such as the boxwood hedge that forms the backbone of her potager. 

Vater’s lessons in the book are valuable for any type of garden, and the quest to find the right garden style is examined thoroughly. She also shares her best practices for everything from organic growing to topiary creation, another of her plant passions.

Like Containers in the Garden, Vater’s book has gorgeous photos and plenty to read. It also incorporates plenty of sidebars and bullet point lists to help gardeners focus on takeaway lessons.

The books share similar cover designs, with a gorgeous photo to draw you in and an elegant linen cover, and in a way they compliment each other on the bookshelf both in look and content, which is a flood of inspiration perfect for the season.

 

On a cold, damp, and dreary day in March, just when most of us were really, really looking forward warmer, drier weather, a customer and I were problem-solving some issues with her houseplants, when she said “my plants are SO excited that Spring is almost here.”

In the moment, I thought that was a lovely and whimsical expression, but as I thought about it further, I realized that, botanically speaking, she was spot on. Our houseplants ARE excited by the transition into Spring.

Healthy Roots & Spring Growth Spurts

The longer days bring higher temperatures. This stimulates root growth, which in turn supports new leaf production. Carbohydrates that are stored in the stems, roots, and rhizomes during the winter are used by the plant to provide the energy it needs to kick-start this growth spurt. This is one of the reasons it is so important that your plants have a healthy root system all year ‘round.

I know I get some funny looks when I tip a plant out of its pot to check its roots. Sometimes it takes a couple of forceful slaps to disengage it and soil goes spilling to the floor. But the roots really are what determine the short and long-term vitality of your plant, so it’s important to see how healthy they are. Leaves and flowers tell only part of the story. So, it’s for the sake of the roots that we care to understand each plant’s individual preferences for soil, drainage, pot size, watering frequency, fertilizer, and light.

Spring Houseplant Care

Now you may ask: “What can I do to support all this magical plant activity in spring? Here are a few suggestions.

The Right Amount of Light

When a customer asks for help in choosing plants for their home or office, the first question I always ask is about the available sunlight because plants are like Goldilocks’ Bears: they like it not-too-shady and not-too bright, but “Just Right.”

Too little light and the plant will grow slowly, spindly and even fail altogether. Too much light and the plant will wilt, show heat stress, drop its leaves and also fail. Gauging the amount of available light can be tricky so using the compass directions is a handy way to assess this:

• Light from the North= Extremely Low Indirect

• Light from the East = Low Indirect

• Light from the South & West that does not directly shine on the plant = Medium-to-Bright Indirect

• Light from the South & West that hits directly = Bright Direct

Knowing this much is all we need to help you narrow your selection and give your plant the best possible environment to thrive. And if you are wondering which of our more popular plants do well in which type of light, we have a handy indoor plant light needs tip sheet that matches plants to their light preferences. 

Spring Repotting

Spring is the best time to repot your houseplants and, if your plant has been in the same container for more than 2 years, there is a good chance the soil has lost much of its organic matter and the roots are cramped. This results in depletion of available nutrients and the loss of moisture retention and proper aeration.

Repotting to a pot “the next size up” is the perfect solution but, if your space cannot accommodate a larger-sized pot, or you wish to restrict the further growth of the plant, there are ways to “refresh” your plant with new soil and the selective pruning of roots and stems. Learn how to repot your plant.

Also, some plants can be “divided.” If there are mature sections of the plant that have their own root system, a little careful tugging and snipping can make multiple plants from the single “mother” plant. This allows you to return the divided plant into its original pot and create a second or third plant to be repotted separately.

While repotting, it’s an excellent time to check for pests that might be hiding in the soil and at the base of the stems or trunk. A magnifying glass is handy to determine if the little specs you see are bugs, eggs or just parts of the soil.

Our post on houseplant pests can help you identify them and, for detailed advice on any of these repotting steps, just ask our Indoor Living team the next time you visit. We are happy to talk you through the process. Trust us, it is easier than it looks!

Spring Pruning

Indoor plants are not as fussy about “when to prune” as outdoor plants are. You can really do it anytime, but the most opportune time is Spring, when the plant is focused on growth. This way the plant won’t spend precious energy on growing stems and leaves, only to be cut off in later months. So, thinking ahead about the overall shape and mass of the plant can be helpful.

For trailing plants (pothos, tradescantia, philodendron, ivy), giving their tendrils “a haircut” will keep the overall plant full and lush by encouraging new growth along its stems and crown. For extra fun, try rooting those cuttings in water and then transplant several of them together into the same pot. It’s a quick way to have a new plant that is fuller from the get-go.

If your houseplants are woody and branching (ficus, citrus, fiddle leaf figs), annual pruning is very helpful to maintain trunk stability, an attractive and balanced shape and a canopy that can be sustained by the size its root ball. Learn more about Pruning 101 for both indoor and outdoor woody plants.

Low and mid-sized herbaceous plants (ferns, calathea, aglaonema, alocasia, succulents, ZZ, sansevieria, monstera) don’t require “pruning” in the classic sense of the word, but removing anything dying, diseased and failing to thrive is definitely beneficial.

For small, mounding plants (peperomia, callisia, pilea, polka dot, fittonia), if stems are getting thin and “leggy” then snipping off some length also encourages branching and fuller growth along the stem.

Watering & Fertilizing

In spring, actively growing houseplants need more water to sustain them. Remember: hotter and longer days require more frequent watering. You may find that a plant you watered once every 12-14 days now needs watering weekly. Or, a succulent or cactus that you watered monthly at most in winter would appreciate a deep watering every 2-3 weeks.

Choosing the right fertilizer and navigating the rules of fertilizing can be confusing, so here are some basic tips that I hope will help:

• Fertilize during the growing seasons: start in May and stop in September.

• Use a liquid fertilizer. It is easier to measure the correct dilution than a pelletized formula.

• Look for those 3 important numbers that indicate the ratio of N-P-K (Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium) and choose one that is “balanced.” Often those numbers are 1:1:1, 3:3:3 & 10:10:10.

  • Nitrogen is for tissue & leaf growth.

  • Phosphorous is for root, stem, bud & flower growth.

  • Potassium increases the overall vigor and aids in metabolism.

And a note: organic fertilizers also contain micronutrients that contribute to a healthy biome in the soil!

Yes, there are always exceptions. Plants that you purchase for their flowers rather than their leaves, can benefit from a light dilution of fertilizer all year long (this also applies to our ever-popular Fiddle Leaf Fig). Citrus plants march to their own tune entirely and need a fertilizer specially formulated just for them.

Orchids are also an exception. If you have questions about fertilizing orchids, come in and talk with us. But don’t worry… All questions do have answers and we are here to help. Further details about caring for your orchids can be found on the Missouri Botanical Garden website.

Happy Spring! We hope you’re as excited about it as your plants are!

What Are Your Flavor Preferences?

Do you have a sweet tooth? Or maybe you prefer a milder, less acidic tomato. Or, perhaps, a complex flavor profile suits your discriminating palette. Here’s what we suggest:

A: I love sweet tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes are a good bet. In fact, we call ‘Sweet 100’ vine candy! ‘Sungold’ tomatoes are also sweet with a hint of tropical flavor. ‘Striped German’ is a larger fruit that has a nice rich sweetness.

If you want a small-space tomato that’s sweet, try ‘Taxi’ or ‘Oregon Cherry’.

B: I prefer a mild flavor

‘Yellow Pear’ tomatoes often have a milder flavor, as do ‘Dona’ and ‘Seattle’s Best’.

C: I’m all about complexity

Look for darker-skinned, heirloom tomatoes. ‘Cherokee Purple’ has a good balance of sweet, acid, savory, and a hint of smokiness; ‘Brandywine’ complicates sweetness with a bit of spiciness; ‘Black Krim’ has a flavor profile that is smoky, salty, and sweet, all at once. Finally, ‘Black Zebra’ (sorry! Sold out for 2022) is all about complexity with its green-striped mahogany skin and exceptionally rich, complex flavors that have hints of smoke and sweetness.

For small spaces, ‘Black Sea Man’ and ‘Ruby Crush’ have rich, complex flavors.

D: I like it tart

Not all tomatoes are sweet. Some of the best surprise us with their crisp, tart flavor. Try ‘Yellow Perfection’ or the outstanding tart, lemon-lime flavor of ‘Green Zebra’.

PRUNING

We will be publishing a detailed post on pruning rhododendrons soon, but here are a few basics to keep in mind:

1)   It’s nearly always better to thin and open up a rhody shrub rather than cut it back and make it more dense. An exception would be an older, leggy plant in need of restoration.

2)   If you do any major cutting back, such as to reduce size, do so within a month or two after it blooms. This will give the plant time to regenerate bloom buds for next year. Unlike many woody plants, you can cut a healthy rhody branch back to where there is no foliage, and it will sprout again from latent buds. But we don’t recommend this on a regular basis, because there will be less blooming and an unnatural shape.

3)   Deadheading (snapping off spent bloom trusses) redirects energy into next year’s blooms rather than seed production. Also, it visually cleans up the plant. But on a large, mature plant, deadheading takes a lot of time and might not make a big difference in future blooming.

 

TRANSPLANTING

Because rhododendrons have such dense, compact root balls, they tend to tolerate being dug and moved better than many other woody plants. The outer perimeter of an established rhody root ball is often well-defined; digging is typically easy (depending on soil) outside of it, very hard within it.

 But keep in mind, the root balls of large rhodies can be quite heavy, requiring strong tools and strong backs. Even small ones can be surprisingly heavy. Recruit some strong friends, and/or take heavy-lifting precautions.

 

Rhododendrons and azaleas can thrive and look beautiful for a long, long time with the right care. Please contact us if you have any questions!

Thank you to Park Seed for partnering with me on this post. As always, all words, thoughts and seed choices are my own.

The hardest part of growing plants from seed is keeping the amount I grow in check. I can’t be alone in this. It can be so tempting to plant just a few more, or the whole pack of seeds. But that kind of volume can take the fun out of growing from seed when it becomes overwhelming. 

And plenty of people, including maybe even future me, want to grow a few plants from seed without piles of gear. 

And it’s not hard, as long as you have a plan, a system and a little restraint.

WHERE TO GROW

A nice, self-contained seed-starting kit is a joy to have when you’ll be making the most of a small amount of growing space. Park Seed’s Bio-Dome is a mini greenhouse growing system that is well suited to growing a variety of plants from seed.

I’m using Park’s Original Bio Dome with 40 cells, which is suitable for all but the biggest and fastest growing seeds. It has a footprint of about 15 inches long by 9.25 inches wide, which makes it small enough to sit on a table in a window. Made of sturdy, hard plastic, the bottom tray and humidity dome should last for years.

A styrofoam insert holds bio sponges, a growing medium that springs to life after a quick soaking to fill each cell. Everything other than the bio sponges is reusable and refills are available.

WHAT TO GROW

If you’re planning to mix and match a variety of seeds—and you should because how many of us need 40 of one plant–you have to look for some similar characteristics among plants.

Ideally they will all need to be started around the same amount of time before the last frost. Most seed packets offer a range of a couple weeks in which to start seeds, so aim to have all the varieties fall within that range. 

Seeds need different temperatures for germination. Look for varieties that all germinate at about the same temperature.

It’s a bonus, but not strictly necessary, if you can also find seeds that germinate in about the same amount of time.

I grew a variety of seeds, including ‘Daisy Wheel Lemon’ marigold, ‘Big Blue’ Salvia, two types of Ageratum, Rudbeckia ‘Sahara’ and even a lone Tithonia seed I found in a packet. I could have grown several other varieties, but I wanted quite a few marigolds to tuck in around the vegetable garden as well as to help fill holes in the rest of the garden.

DEVELOP A SYSTEM

When you’re planting several varieties of seeds in the same tray good labeling is key. I start from the back of the tray (which could be the long or short side depending on your approach) and label from there, so the label sits at the back of a run of cells. When I start a new variety, a label goes in the cell that is farthest back.

PLANT AWAY

Bio sponges have a small hole for larger seed but small seeds that are meant to be sown on the surface can just be pressed into the top. There’s no need to add anything else.

Watering seedlings from the bottom is always a good idea but it’s the only way to water with the Bio Dome. Just keep a quarter-inch or a bit more water in the bottom of the tray and allow the bio sponges to absorb it.

HEAT AND LIGHT

If you’re growing seeds that need bottom heat, set the Bio Dome on a heat mat or another warm surface. Keep the humidity dome vents closed until seeds start germinating and then you can open them as needed.

Once seeds germinate, they will need light. A very bright window might work if you have very clean windows and very strong light. A grow light is a much better option, and with a small system like this an inexpensive clip-on grown light can do the job of supplementing natural light if you don’t have a large grow-light system.

GROWING ON

Different varieties will grow at different rates so you’ll have to offer some individual attention as they grow. With some dilute fertilizer applications, seedlings should be happy in the Bio Dome for some time as the roots will reach down in the system, not circle around.

When they outgrow their cells, pop them out (there’s a finger-sized hole at the bottom of each cell) and pot them up in larger pots to grow on before you harden them off and plant them outside. Fortunately you can do this without disturbing other cells so you can pick and choose which need to move on, an important factor when you’re planting multiple varieties.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

Odds are that you’ll want to grow several varieties of plants with different needs. If you can divide them into two groups by starting time, you can get away with just two systems for all your seedlings.

You may even be able to replant the first Bio Dome with another set of seeds, perhaps those that should be started four weeks before your last frost, assuming some of the plants you started in the first round have moved on to larger pots. The system comes with an extra dozen or so bio sponges but more are available separately.

Every year I wonder why I started so many plants from seed, far more than I could ever use in my own garden, and I think it’s because I feel the need to fill a tray. Starting only what I really need in a simple setup is very appealing. Maybe this old dog can learn a new trick. 

 

If there is a support group for planter addicts, let me know, because I need it. I love a good container, but finding one is a different matter. 

I have two non-negotiable requirements for most planters: they need to be big and they need to look good. Weight, style and even cost are all things I’m willing to be flexible on, but they have to be big. Over the years I’ve accumulated a handful of “investment” planters, and I’ve never regretted spending the money on one I really loved. 

Obviously it’s best to buy planters in person if possible and beyond garden centers, it’s worth checking out big box stores (which have upped their container game in the last few years) and places like Sam’s Club and Costco. The classifieds (yes, I still like classified ads), Facebook marketplace, Craigslist and other secondhand sites are great too, although I’ll admit to having no luck as far as those are concerned. I feel like that must be a personal problem because I see plenty of gardeners scoring great finds.

But let’s say you can’t find something locally, or maybe you just want to shop from your couch. Here’s a round up of a bunch of containers I found, all over 18 inches wide, which is really the minimum size I consider unless it’s a specialty or tabletop application. Happy container hunting.

1. Geometric goodness. 18″ wide, $179, on sale for $143
2. Fiber jar, 21″ wide, $268
3. Great legs, 18″ wide, $149
4. Lightweight + double-walled, 20″ wide, $119
5. Tall and sleek, 22″ wide, $77
6. All good looks, 28″ wide, on sale for $307
7. Pinstripe perfection, 17″ wide, on sale for $66
8. Terrazzo bronze, 21″ wide, $150
9. Textured radius, 22″ wide, $279
10. Concentric circles, 21″ wide, $869

 

 

 

1. Wood stripes, 38″ wide, $589
2. Corten steel warmth, 38″ wide, $379
3. Modern teak, 22″ wide, $818
4. Industrial planter, 21″ wide, $599
5. Aged wood trough, 30″ wide, $279
6. Simple and sleek, 23″ wide, $260
7. Modern trough, 39″ wide, $259
8. Stone lookalike, 16″ wide, $83
9. Wood with style, set of two, 15″ and 18″ wide, $266.
10. Seaside cottage, set of two, 13″ wide, $160 (on sale)

 

 

1. Chinoiserie goodness, 20″ wide, $367
2. Urn with a twist, 18″ wide, $175 on sale
3. Oil jar, 25″ wide, $275
4. Square corten bowl, 34″ wide, $275
5. Zinc planter, 17″ wide, $99
6. Old world charm, 24″ wide, 36″ tall, $699
7. Tabletop perfection, 26″ wide, $75 on sale
8. Round corten bowl, 24″ wide, $200
9. Ruffle urn, 23″ wide, $459
10. Modern cast stone, 28″ wide, $263