On a cold, damp, and dreary day in March, just when most of us were really, really looking forward warmer, drier weather, a customer and I were problem-solving some issues with her houseplants, when she said “my plants are SO excited that Spring is almost here.”
In the moment, I thought that was a lovely and whimsical expression, but as I thought about it further, I realized that, botanically speaking, she was spot on. Our houseplants ARE excited by the transition into Spring.
Healthy Roots & Spring Growth Spurts
The longer days bring higher temperatures. This stimulates root growth, which in turn supports new leaf production. Carbohydrates that are stored in the stems, roots, and rhizomes during the winter are used by the plant to provide the energy it needs to kick-start this growth spurt. This is one of the reasons it is so important that your plants have a healthy root system all year ‘round.
I know I get some funny looks when I tip a plant out of its pot to check its roots. Sometimes it takes a couple of forceful slaps to disengage it and soil goes spilling to the floor. But the roots really are what determine the short and long-term vitality of your plant, so it’s important to see how healthy they are. Leaves and flowers tell only part of the story. So, it’s for the sake of the roots that we care to understand each plant’s individual preferences for soil, drainage, pot size, watering frequency, fertilizer, and light.
Spring Houseplant Care
Now you may ask: “What can I do to support all this magical plant activity in spring? Here are a few suggestions.
The Right Amount of Light
When a customer asks for help in choosing plants for their home or office, the first question I always ask is about the available sunlight because plants are like Goldilocks’ Bears: they like it not-too-shady and not-too bright, but “Just Right.”
Too little light and the plant will grow slowly, spindly and even fail altogether. Too much light and the plant will wilt, show heat stress, drop its leaves and also fail. Gauging the amount of available light can be tricky so using the compass directions is a handy way to assess this:
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Light from the North= Extremely Low Indirect
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Light from the East = Low Indirect
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Light from the South & West that does not directly shine on the plant = Medium-to-Bright Indirect
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Light from the South & West that hits directly = Bright Direct
Knowing this much is all we need to help you narrow your selection and give your plant the best possible environment to thrive. And if you are wondering which of our more popular plants do well in which type of light, we have a handy indoor plant light needs tip sheet that matches plants to their light preferences.
Spring Repotting
Spring is the best time to repot your houseplants and, if your plant has been in the same container for more than 2 years, there is a good chance the soil has lost much of its organic matter and the roots are cramped. This results in depletion of available nutrients and the loss of moisture retention and proper aeration.
Repotting to a pot “the next size up” is the perfect solution but, if your space cannot accommodate a larger-sized pot, or you wish to restrict the further growth of the plant, there are ways to “refresh” your plant with new soil and the selective pruning of roots and stems. Learn how to repot your plant.
Also, some plants can be “divided.” If there are mature sections of the plant that have their own root system, a little careful tugging and snipping can make multiple plants from the single “mother” plant. This allows you to return the divided plant into its original pot and create a second or third plant to be repotted separately.
While repotting, it’s an excellent time to check for pests that might be hiding in the soil and at the base of the stems or trunk. A magnifying glass is handy to determine if the little specs you see are bugs, eggs or just parts of the soil.
Our post on houseplant pests can help you identify them and, for detailed advice on any of these repotting steps, just ask our Indoor Living team the next time you visit. We are happy to talk you through the process. Trust us, it is easier than it looks!
Spring Pruning
Indoor plants are not as fussy about “when to prune” as outdoor plants are. You can really do it anytime, but the most opportune time is Spring, when the plant is focused on growth. This way the plant won’t spend precious energy on growing stems and leaves, only to be cut off in later months. So, thinking ahead about the overall shape and mass of the plant can be helpful.
For trailing plants (pothos, tradescantia, philodendron, ivy), giving their tendrils “a haircut” will keep the overall plant full and lush by encouraging new growth along its stems and crown. For extra fun, try rooting those cuttings in water and then transplant several of them together into the same pot. It’s a quick way to have a new plant that is fuller from the get-go.
If your houseplants are woody and branching (ficus, citrus, fiddle leaf figs), annual pruning is very helpful to maintain trunk stability, an attractive and balanced shape and a canopy that can be sustained by the size its root ball. Learn more about Pruning 101 for both indoor and outdoor woody plants.
Low and mid-sized herbaceous plants (ferns, calathea, aglaonema, alocasia, succulents, ZZ, sansevieria, monstera) don’t require “pruning” in the classic sense of the word, but removing anything dying, diseased and failing to thrive is definitely beneficial.
For small, mounding plants (peperomia, callisia, pilea, polka dot, fittonia), if stems are getting thin and “leggy” then snipping off some length also encourages branching and fuller growth along the stem.
Watering & Fertilizing
In spring, actively growing houseplants need more water to sustain them. Remember: hotter and longer days require more frequent watering. You may find that a plant you watered once every 12-14 days now needs watering weekly. Or, a succulent or cactus that you watered monthly at most in winter would appreciate a deep watering every 2-3 weeks.
Choosing the right fertilizer and navigating the rules of fertilizing can be confusing, so here are some basic tips that I hope will help:
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Fertilize during the growing seasons: start in May and stop in September.
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Use a liquid fertilizer. It is easier to measure the correct dilution than a pelletized formula.
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Look for those 3 important numbers that indicate the ratio of N-P-K (Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium) and choose one that is “balanced.” Often those numbers are 1:1:1, 3:3:3 & 10:10:10.
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Nitrogen is for tissue & leaf growth.
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Phosphorous is for root, stem, bud & flower growth.
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Potassium increases the overall vigor and aids in metabolism.
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And a note: organic fertilizers also contain micronutrients that contribute to a healthy biome in the soil!
Yes, there are always exceptions. Plants that you purchase for their flowers rather than their leaves, can benefit from a light dilution of fertilizer all year long (this also applies to our ever-popular Fiddle Leaf Fig). Citrus plants march to their own tune entirely and need a fertilizer specially formulated just for them.
Orchids are also an exception. If you have questions about fertilizing orchids, come in and talk with us. But don’t worry… All questions do have answers and we are here to help. Further details about caring for your orchids can be found on the Missouri Botanical Garden website.
Happy Spring! We hope you’re as excited about it as your plants are!
Barrie Moss
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