Category: Home & Garden

We’ve all been learning about the importance of growing native plants in our yards. They’re vital to the insects, birds, and wildlife we love. The good news is that you don’t need a yard to support them. For most of the week, I live 10 stories above the street in New York City, where I have just the smallest sliver of outdoor space. I wanted to see if I could grow some native plants in pots on my terrace to support the birds and insects that fly past my windows. I reached out to Uli Lorimer, director of Horticulture at Native Plant Trust, the nation’s first plant conservation organization, and the author of The Northeast Native Plant Primer- 235 Plants for an Earth-Friendly Garden (Timber Press, 2022). He shared his advice—and now I need to get planting.

Photography by Uli Lorimer.

Q: What should you look for when selecting plants for containers?

A: The first distinction that I would like to make is that many of our native plants are perennials, either woody shrubs and trees or herbaceous. This means that they will continue to grow and fill in a container over time. I like to select plants for containers with the aim of eventually planting them out into the soil in the future. Remember that these plants are more than just ornaments to be discarded at the end of a growing season. As a way to honor them and the hard work that went into propagating these plants, try to ensure they have a forever home after they have outgrown the container.

That said, there are several great native annuals to incorporate into container plantings like partridge pea (Chamaechrista fasciculata) for dry sunny conditions or herb robert (Geranium robertianum) for dry shady conditions. These plants have extended bloom periods and will draw pollinators to your container. For aesthetic reasons, I look for the same qualities that you would for annual or tender perennial container plants, plants that may trail over the side, structural plants, and certainly a progression of blooms throughout the season.

Q: What herbaceous plants do you recommend for containers?

A: For a spring woodland feel, I like woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata) and wild geraniums (Geranium maculatum). For sunny dry locations our native prickly pear cactus (Opuntia humifusa) is a stalwart performer, very drought tolerant and capable of producing a multitude of gorgeous yellow blossoms in summer. Pussytoes (Anntenaria sp.) are low growing and drought tolerant with silvery foliage. For summer standouts, include mountain mints (Pycnanthemum sp.) and wild bergamots (Monarda sp.), as these are sure to attract every pollinator in the neighborhood.

We often include ferns in our containers at Garden in the Woods, evergreen ones like Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) or gently spreading ferns like narrow beech fern (Phegopteris connectilis) or ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). Ferns add a relaxing textural element and are generally good for shadier spots. Lastly, for autumn bloomers, I am fond of heart leaved aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium). Its stems are stout and festooned with small pale blue flowers while wreath goldenrod (Solidago caesia) produces graceful splays of blue stems with cheerful yellow blossoms tucked into the axils between the leaves. There are truthfully too many herbaceous options to list them all, but these count among my personal favorites.

Q: What trees do you recommend?

Hi, this is Joseph in Indiana. I moved into my house about a year and a half ago, and the yard was a completely taken over by masses of invasive weeds: honeysuckle and knotweed. So I cleared all that out, and now that they are gone, I’m finding all kinds of treasures. Sometime since the 1940s when the house was built, a gardener must have lived on and loved this little urban lot, because all kinds of long-lived treasures are popping up and enriching my spring.

These hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis, Zones 4–8) somehow survived years of being smothered by weeds. Last spring they were just foliage, but they’re bouncing back now wonderfully and are covered with fragrant blooms. I have no idea what the variety is, of course, but I’m thrilled with how vigorous they are. I can’t wait to start dividing them and spreading them over the garden so I can enjoy their fragrance.

Peonies are survivors. There were a few peonies on the property when I moved in, but the shade of weeds had reduced them to just a few wisps of foliage. But now, with a little love and more sun, they’re coming back, and this one even has a flower bud! I can’t wait to see what it looks like and to watch it really start bulking up in the years to come.

Last year I had just one or two blooms of long-suffering glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa forbesii, Zones 3–8). But free from weeds, they’ve transformed into a carpet of bloom this year.

I’ve been adding my own plants, of course, like these primroses (Primula hybrids, Zones 3–8) I grew from seed.

I grew a LOT of primroses from seed. I wish I had planted them closer together so they’d make a solid carpet, but maybe next year.

These little hoop-petticoat daffodils (Narcissus ‘White Petticoat’, Zones 5–8) are tiny and delicate. I love how they look, but maybe they aren’t in the right place, as they’re a bit easy to overlook.

Narcissus ‘Trena’ is in the bed between my sidewalk and the street.  I love the nodding flowers held up over the foliage.

Pasque flower (Pulsatilla vulgaris, Zones 4–8) is a favorite. I love the early blooms and the way the silky hairs on it glow in the sun.

 

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Cerbera manghas, also known as the sea apple or pong-pong tree, is a tropical plant prized for its striking foliage, aromatic flowers, and versatility in landscaping.

The genus name Cerbera is derived from the hell dog in Greek mythology named Cerberus. This references the toxicity of the entire tree and fruits.

It is native to coastal areas in Southeast Asia, Africa, Australasia, and the Pacific islands.

Moreover, this evergreen tree can also be found near coastal and mangrove forests, marshy areas, and sandy beaches in tropical, sub-tropical, and monsoonal climate zones.

This plant is also known for its common name, including:

• Beach Milkwood
• Buta Buta
• Grey Milkwood
• Dogbane
• Sea mango
• Pink-eyed Pong Pong Tree
• Pokok Pong Pong
• Sea Pong Pong
• Tanghin Poison
• Odollam tree
• Odollamia manghas

Whether grown in a container or planted directly in the ground, Cerbera manghas can add interest and beauty to any garden or outdoor space.

In this article, we will explore the different aspects of growing and caring for Cerbera manghas properly.

Cerbera Manghas Care

Size and Growth Rate

Cerbera manghas is a slow-growing tree, often reaching up to 30′ feet tall, with a plumeria-like growth habit.

Its crown is oval or round in shape. In addition, the plant’s bark is gray and deeply fissured.

However, the small evergreen coastal tree is more commonly grown as a shrub and can be pruned to maintain a desired size and shape.

When cut, all parts of the pong-pong tree exude white, milky latex.

Flowering and Fragrance

The pong-pong tree produces large, white flowers with a pinkish-red center that blooms throughout the year.

The flowers are highly fragrant, often described as sweet and intoxicating, with a hint of vanilla.

Cerbera manghas fragrant flowers attract various pollinators, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

This plant also features attractive egg-shaped fruits often used in garden flower displays. At maturity, these fruits turn bright red.

However, the sea mango tree fruits are extremely poisonous, especially if ingested.

Light and Temperature

The Sea mango tree prefers full sun to partial shade but can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, from 60° to 100° degrees Fahrenheit.

However, it is important to protect the plant from frost and cold winds, which can damage its foliage and flowers.

Moreover, the Cerbera manghas is best grown outdoors in zone 10a to 11.

Watering and Fertilizer

Cerbera manghas tree requires moderate but regular watering, especially during drought or extreme heat. It is important to avoid overwatering, as the plant is susceptible to root rot.

In terms of fertilizer, a bloom boom fertilizer or balanced, slow-release fertilizer will do the trick, applied every three months during the growing season.

Soil and Transplanting

Cerbera manghas prefers well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. However, this coastal tree can tolerate sandy soil with good drainage and is rich in humus content.

It can also grow well in various soil types, from sandy loam to clay, even in poor soil conditions.

The Sea mango tree can be planted in containers or directly in the ground. However, ensure there is additional leaf mould.

However, it requires occasional transplanting to promote healthy growth. When transplanting, it is important to ensure the plant’s root ball is not damaged.

Growing in the Landscape

Cerbera manghas is a versatile plant that can be grown in a variety of landscaping settings.

It is often used as a specimen plant, accent plant, hedge, or screen. It also pairs well with other tropical plants, such as palms, hibiscus, and the bird of paradise.

Grooming and Maintenance

Aside from occasional pruning, the pong-pong tree requires minimal grooming to promote healthy growth and maintain its shape. Using sharp, clean pruning shears is important to avoid damaging the plant.

Environment

Cerbera manghas is tolerant to various environmental stresses, including drought, heat, and salt spray. However, it is important to protect the plant from frost and cold winds, which can damage its foliage and flowers.

How To Propagate Sea Mango Tree

Cerbera manghas can be propagated through stem cuttings or seeds.

Stem cuttings should be taken during the growing season, preferably before or after flowering.

Moreover, seeds should be harvested from mature fruits and planted in well-drained soil.

Cerbera Manghas Pest and Diseases

Pest and disease control is essential to growing and caring for Cerbera manghas. Although the coastal tree is relatively low-maintenance, it is susceptible to various pests and diseases that can damage its foliage and compromise its overall health.

Here are some common pests and diseases that affect the Sea mango tree and how to control them:

Scale Insects

These small, oval-shaped insects suck sap from the tree’s leaves, causing yellowing, wilting, and eventual death when infestations are severe.

The scale insects produce a sticky substance called honeydew when feeding on the plant. This substance typically attracts ants and promotes the growth of sooty mold.

To control scale insects, you can use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. First, spray the affected parts of the tree thoroughly, covering the leaves’ undersides. Repeat the treatment every two weeks until the infestation is under control.

Mealybugs

Mealybugs are small, white, cottony insects with waxy filaments resembling a tail.

These insects also feed on the Sea mango tree’s sap, causing yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and reducing plant vigor.

They also excrete wax and sticky honeydew that promotes the growth of sooty mold and reduces plant and fruit quality.

You can use the same methods as scale insects to control mealybugs. You can also spray with isopropyl Alcohol.

Make sure to spray the tree thoroughly, focusing on the undersides of the leaves and the areas where the insects are most concentrated.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are tiny, reddish-brown insects that spin webs on the tree’s leaves and suck sap.

They cause yellowing and wilting of the foliage, a stippled or mottled appearance. Moreover, severe infestations typically cause defoliation.

To control spider mites, you can use a miticide or insecticidal soap. First, spray the affected parts of the tree thoroughly, covering the leaves’ undersides.

Repeat the treatment every two weeks until the infestation is under control.

Fungal Diseases

Cerbera manghas is susceptible to various fungal diseases, including root rot, leaf spot, and powdery mildew.

These diseases can cause wilting, yellowing, and brown spots on the leaves, stunted growth, droopy flowers, and poor fruit production.

To control fungal diseases, you can use fungicides or cultural methods. In addition, ensure proper drainage to prevent root rot and remove and destroy infected plant material to prevent the spread of disease.

In addition to these specific treatments, it’s important to maintain good overall tree health to prevent pest and disease infestations.

This includes providing the ornamental tree with proper soil, watering, fertilization, and regular pruning and grooming to remove dead or diseased branches.

By following these tips and monitoring your tree regularly, you can keep your sea mango tree healthy and beautiful for years.

Pong-pong Tree Uses

Cerbera manghas is a popular choice for landscaping in tropical and subtropical regions.

It is often used to create a tropical garden as a specimen plant, accent plant, hedge, or screen. Its striking foliage and fragrant flowers make it a great addition to any outdoor space, from large gardens to small balconies.

The plant can also be grown in containers, which makes it a great option for those with limited outdoor space.

The wood of the pong-pong tree is also occasionally used for core veneer, moldings, plain furniture, clogs, fruit cases, and carving.

Moreover, its fibrous fruits are also often used in flower arrangements. 

When harvested for its oil, it can support the production of biodiesel as a raw material.

In addition to its ornamental value, the pong-pong tree is also used for medicinal purposes in some cultures.

The plant contains several bioactive compounds shown to potentially treat various health conditions, including breast cancer, human colon cancer, and lung cancer.

It can be a medicinal plant used for dealing with diabetes, fever, gastrointestinal problems, malaria, and other infectious diseases.

Moreover, the seeds are often used to treat heart problems as traditional medicine. The extract of the plant leaves can also be screened for their antioxidant activities.

Conclusion

In conclusion, C. manghas is a versatile and beautiful plant that can add interest and beauty to any garden or outdoor space.

Your pong-pong tree also makes an excellent edible landscaping plant for its exquisite ornamental appeal.

It’s also often used locally as a herbal medicine for diseases.

Remember, this plant excretes white latex in all parts, which can irritate the eyes and skin. So be careful when handling the pong-pong tree.

By following the tips outlined in this article, you can ensure that your Sea mango tree thrives and produces its signature fragrant flowers for years.

Whether used as a specimen plant, accent plant, hedge, or screen, This plant impresses with its striking foliage and intoxicating fragrance.

Stemmadenia litoralis, also known as the “milky way tree,” is a stunning tropical plant renowned for its ornamental beauty and traditional medicinal uses.

This small tree is native to South and Central America and can also be found in the coastal rainforests of Tropical America.

As a versatile, fragrant plant, it can thrive both indoors and outdoors, adding a touch of the tropics to your home or garden.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through growing and caring for Stemmadenia litoralis, ensuring you can enjoy its colorful flowers and lush foliage for years to come.

Stemmadenia Litoralis Care

Size and Growth Rate

On average, the Milky Way tree is an open-branching tree that grows up to 16′ to 25′ feet in the tropics.

It has wide-spreading, glossy green leaves in a rounded crown that creates a multi-layered canopy,

Moreover, the Stemmadenia litoralis is a moderate to fast-growing plant, depending on the growing conditions.

When properly cared for, this stunning plant can quickly fill your garden or indoor space with its lush, green leaves and striking, fragrant flowers.

Flowering and Fragrance

The flowers of Stemmadenia litoralis are truly a sight to behold. This plant produces trumpet-shaped, white flowers that emit a delightful, sweet, and musky fragrance in full bloom.

Its perfume attracts pollinators and adds a pleasing aroma to the surrounding area.

You will notice your Milky Way tree blooming during the warmer months, from late spring to early fall, and throughout the year. However, this flowering tree stops blooming on cool winter nights.

Moreover, the fertilized flowers of Stemmadenia litoralis develop into odd-looking, twinned fruit that is green when young and orange when ripe.

This plant’s seed pods are orange-gold and double-horned. They also hang from the tree and are born in pairs.

Temperature and Light Requirements

The Milky Way tree thrives in bright, indirect light but may grow well in full sun if the climate is not too hot.

Moreover, it does well in semi-shade and deeper shades, where the plant’s glossy leaves turn dark green and larger.

This makes the placement near a south or east-facing window when grown indoors ideal for Stemmadenia litoralis.

When planted outdoors, it should be planted outdoors where it receives dappled sunlight or partial shade.

The plant prefers consistently warm temperatures, ideally between 60° to 85° degrees Fahrenheit. However, remember that it is sensitive to cold and should be protected from freezing temperatures.

Watering and Fertilizer

Stemmadenia litoralis requires regular watering to maintain consistently moist (but not soggy) soil.

Remember, this plant has poor tolerance to drought conditions.

Water the plant thoroughly, but ensure adequate drainage holes so the excess water can drain and the soil dries slightly between waterings.

During the growing season, apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks to promote healthy growth and flowering.

Moreover, the Milky Way tree is moderately salt tolerant, enduring a little sea spray.

Soil and Transplanting

This tropical plant prefers well-draining, fertile soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. However, it can also grow well in alkaline soils.

Mix equal parts of peat moss, perlite, and organic compost to create the ideal growing environment.

When transplanting the Milky Way tree, choose a larger pot or an outdoor location that offers ample space for the plant’s root system to grow.

The best time to transplant is during the early spring when the plant is just beginning to produce new growth.

Grooming and Maintenance

Pruning and grooming are essential for maintaining the health and appearance of your Stemmadenia litoralis.

Remove dead or damaged leaves and flowers regularly to encourage new growth and prevent the spread of diseases.

Prune the plant in early spring to maintain its shape and size and promote bushier growth.

Environment

Recreating the plant’s natural habitat is key to its successful growth. Stemmadenia litoralis originates from tropical rainforests, where it enjoys dappled sunlight, high humidity, and warm temperatures.

To replicate these conditions indoors, place your plant in a room with bright, indirect light and use a humidifier or pebble tray filled with water to maintain humidity levels.

Choose a partially shaded location protected from harsh winds and direct sunlight if grown outdoors.

How To Propagate Stemmadenia Litoralis

Stemmadenia litoralis can be propagated through seeds, stem cuttings, or air layering.

To propagate via stem cuttings, take a healthy cutting with at least two leaf nodes and dip the cut end in the rooting hormone.

Plant the cutting in a well-draining soil mixture and keep it moist until roots develop.

Air layering is another effective method, especially for larger plants.

Seeds can also be used, although the germination process may be slower and less reliable than other methods.

Growing Stemmodenia Outdoors

While Stemmadenia litoralis can be grown as an eye-catching houseplant, it also makes a stunning addition to outdoor landscapes.

Let’s explore the specific requirements and best practices for growing the Milky Way tree outdoors, focusing on soil needs, water, fertilizer, and pest management.

Following these guidelines will help you create a beautiful and healthy landscape featuring this vibrant tropical plant.

Soil Needs

To ensure the healthy growth of Stemmadenia litoralis outdoors, providing the plant with the proper soil conditions is crucial.

The ideal soil for this tropical plant should be well-draining, fertile, and slightly acidic to neutral pH.

Combining equal parts peat moss, perlite, and organic compost is recommended to create the perfect soil mixture. This mix will provide the necessary nutrients, aeration, and drainage for the plant to thrive.

Watering Requirements

When growing the Milky Way tree outdoors, it is essential to maintain consistent soil moisture without causing waterlogged conditions.

During hot, dry periods, you may need to water the plant more frequently to maintain optimal moisture levels.

Remember to water the plant thoroughly and allow the excess water to drain from the soil.

Moreover, allowing the soil to dry slightly between waterings is crucial to prevent root rot and other issues associated with overwatering.

Fertilizing

Regular fertilization is essential to promote healthy growth and abundant flowering in your outdoor Stemmadenia litoralis.

Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks during the growing season. This will give the plant the nutrients it needs to produce lush foliage and vibrant flowers.

Ensure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct application rates and dilution.

Stemmadenia Litoralis Pest and Diseases Management

Pest and disease control is an important aspect of growing Stemmadenia litoralis outdoors.

Common pests affecting the plant include common pests, such as aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites.

To prevent pest infestations, it is essential to monitor your plant closely, inspect it regularly, and promptly remove any affected leaves or stems.

In addition, you can use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil for severe infestations to control the pests. Just follow the product instructions for proper application rates and timing.

Moreover, implementing a proactive pest control program, such as releasing beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings, can also help keep pest populations in check.

Taking prompt action to manage pests is important because they can cause significant damage to your outdoor Stemmadenia litoralis if left unchecked.

One common disease that attacks the Milky Way tree is root rot. To prevent root rot, ensure your plant is grown in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering.

Milky Way Tree Uses

The ornamental value of Stemmadenia litoralis is undeniable. Its beautiful flowers, lush foliage, and sweet fragrance make it a popular choice for landscaping projects or as a captivating houseplant.

In traditional medicine, various parts of the plant have been used to treat ailments such as fever, inflammation, and digestive disorders.

While its medicinal properties are intriguing, it is essential to consult with a healthcare professional before using any plant for medicinal purposes.

Conclusion

Growing and caring for Stemmadenia litoralis can be a rewarding experience, as this tropical plant brings a touch of the tropics to any space with its stunning aromatic flowers and lush foliage.

You can also create a thriving and beautiful outdoor space featuring this captivating tropical plant by providing the proper soil conditions, consistent watering, regular fertilization, and effective pest management.

Remember these guidelines, and you’ll be well on your way to enjoying a stunning and healthy Stemmadenia litoralis in your landscape.

And that’s where learning how to propagate them comes into play.

It’s a simple skill to learn, supplies are minimal, and multiplying these glamorous gems can be quite easily achieved by the home gardener.

Just remember to put a descriptive tag on the stem while a given plant is blooming – it will look considerably different several months later when it’s time to propagate, and a description will help to identify it.

Multiplication for Masses of Blooms

Many bulbs will naturally self-propagate through the formation of offsets, bulbils, or seeds.

Others need some human interaction to reproduce successfully, with the most common techniques being chipping, scaling, and scooping.

This requires a bit of attention and patience from the gardener, but the many new plants that will be produced as a result are well worth the effort.

And because some new plantings can take anywhere from two to seven years to bloom, this is a practice that should become one of your regular autumn tasks. If you divide a few each year, you’ll have a never-ending supply of bloom-ready bulbs on hand to plant out when they’re wanted.

Here’s the information we’re covering in this guide:

Let’s get to it!

The Various Types

A bulb is defined as a plant that contains everything needed for its entire lifecycle within an underground root structure that’s used to store nutrients.

Typically, these are perennials with periods of growth, flowering, seed setting, and dormancy as the topside growth dies completely back.

They’re usually categorized into the following categories: true bulbs, corms, rhizomes, tubers, and tuberous roots. Let’s take a look at each!

True Bulbs

A “true” bulb has a basal plate on the bottom that roots grow from, plump scales that look like flat garlic cloves, a shoot that forms the flower and leaves, and lateral buds that develop into offsets or bulblets.

Ones that have a tunic, or a paper-like covering, are known as tunicate bulbs. The tunic protects it from drying out.

Examples of true tunicates are alliums, daffodils, hyacinths, muscari, and tulips.

Those without a tunic are called imbricate bulbs. Imbricates need to be keep moist before planting to prevent the scales from drying out. Fritillaria and lilies are a few common types of imbricates.

Find more tips on identifying bulb top and bottoms here.

Propagation by Seed

One of the easiest propagation methods, seeds are collected from spent flower heads once they’ve dried out and opened for seed dispersal. However, reproduction from seed does not guarantee the new plant will be identical to the parent, particularly with hybridized cultivars.

Pick dried flower heads and shake seeds onto a plate, then separate out the chaff. Toss the seeds in a light breeze to allow the chaff to float away, or gently blow away debris.

Sow seeds on the surface of a light, loamy potting soil mix. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of sifted compost and top with a layer of fine sand.

Place flats or pots in a cold frame, unheated greenhouse, or in a sheltered spot out of danger from heavy rains. Ensure the soil is kept moist but not wet.

Depending on the plant, some seeds will germinate promptly, sending up a grass-like shoots, while others like to form roots first and then send up new leaves in the spring, after they’ve enjoyed a cold spell.

Seedlings can be potted up in their second year, but you’ll have to be patient – some bulbs started from seed, such as tulips, can take as long as seven years before you’ll see blooms!

Certain types will naturally self seed in the garden, but you’ll need to allow the seed heads to develop on the stem. Bulbous iris, crocus, and snowdrops will all self seed, but you need to be careful not to weed out their tender young shoots, which resemble blades of grass.

In the fall, after the foliage has died back, gently lift bulbs and detach the offsets, snapping or pulling them away from the parent.

Pot up smaller ones in a rich soil amended with well-rotted compost, and place in a cold frame or sheltered spot in the garden, providing protection from winter cold if needed.

Ensure the soil is moist, but not wet, and wait patiently until they’re large enough to plant in the garden.

Smaller offsets may take 2-4 years before you’ll see a flower, but larger ones can be direct planted into the ground, with blooms likely the following growing season. When planting offsets, mix them in with mature bulbs to ensure a good display of blooms.

Detach bulbils when plump and ripe, then press into a pan or tray of rich, gritty soil amended with plenty of compost. Cover with 1/2 inch of soil and keep moist.

Keep the pan in a sheltered, frost-free location over the winter, and plant out in large clumps the following autumn.

Chipping

Chipping works well on plants including as alliums, amaryllis, daffodils, fritillaria, irises, and hyacinths.

Use bulbs that are clean and dormant, removing any of the papery tunic and trimming any roots with sharp garden snips.

Remove the top 1/3-1/2 of the growing tip and discard.

Invert so that the basal plate (the spot where the roots grow from) is on top, and with a sharp, sterile knife, cut the bulb in half. Continue to cut each section in half, ensuring each section has a piece of the basal plate attached, until you have 8-16 chips.

Soak the chips in a systemic fungicide solution for 15-30 minutes, then drain on a rack for 12 hours – but don’t toss the fungicide solution.

Fill a pot with moisture-retaining peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite, then moisten with the fungicide solution, ensuring the planting medium is thoroughly moist but not wet.

Press the chips into the perlite, basal plate down, then place the pot in a plastic bag. Fill the bag with air, then seal and label it with the date.

Store in a dark, warm (65-70°F) location for approximately 12 weeks. Check periodically, ensuring the perlite remains moist, and removing any rotting chips if you notice them.

While in storage, the layers of each chip will spread apart. Bulblets will form between the layers, just above the basal plate.

Once formed, plant the bulblets into individual pots and place in a sheltered spot in the garden, ensuring the soil stays just moist.

Provide protection against winter cold in a sheltered spot or cold frame, and plant into the garden the following autumn.

Scooping

Scooping is a method used primarily for hyacinths, and it must be done in the winter while they are dormant.

Using a clean paring knife or a sharpened teaspoon, scoop out the center of the basal plate to a depth of up to 1/2 inch, taking care to leave the outer rim intact.

Sprinkle the scooped end with fungicide powder, shaking off any excess.

Add coarse sand to a tray and water to moisten, then press the bulbs into the sand upside down, with the scooped basal plate on top.

Place the tray in a warm (around 65-70°F), dark location, watering the sand periodically to keep it just moist.

In approximately 12 weeks, bulblets will from in the scooped out section. When large enough to handle, gently detach them from the parent bulb, and pot up in individual containers in a mixture of sifted compost and fine sand, planting as you would for seeds.

Prolific Garden Beauty

While some bulbs might be considered a bit pricey, they’re well worth the cost for their outstanding beauty, delightful fragrance, and years of prolific multiplication in the garden.

And for those species that are reluctant or slow to multiply on their own, you now have several methods to propagate them successfully at home.

Remember to use a fungicide on any cut surfaces to prevent rot, and protect new plants from winter cold until they’re ready to be planted in the garden.

We’ve taken a look at some of the best defensive plants to add to the landscape for home security, so let’s dive in! Carefully…

Here’s what I’ll cover:

How to Use Defensive Plants in Your Landscape

There are a variety of ways to use defensive plants as a deterrent and to provide an unpleasant welcome to uninvited guests.

When you choose plantings for your landscape, remember to check that they are suitable for your growing zone. Ensure that you keep in mind mature heights, and whether the species you choose is considered invasive in your area.

Before you plant, think about your escape routes carefully. In the case of a fire or other disaster, you don’t want your plantings to block your escape or cause injury – this is particularly important in the case of upstairs windows.

Perimeter

The first line of defense for any property is the perimeter.

A thorny climbing plant makes it difficult for would-be intruders to scale a fence, and a spiky hedge can make for a decorative natural barrier. Mischief-makers will also be put off by the prospect of leaving valuable clues and DNA behind for law-enforcement – like torn clothes or cut skin.

Training climbing plants up and along the top of fencing is effective, as is careful placement of shrubs or bushes in vulnerable corners, or on the inside of large fences.

Plan your perimeter borders with larger, spiky species at the back, and smaller, equally unwelcoming specimens in front. This can provide a barrier to entry, but still allows you some visibility across your property.

Under Windows

First floor windows are often an easy access point for burglars. Tiptoeing through your pretty flower bed, it’s an easy hop into your home for a quick getaway with your laptop.

Consider placing low-growing, spiky plants underneath these windows to make access more difficult – but make sure you check the mature height of the plants or you may end up blocking your view.

When you plan your plantings, take care not to obstruct fuse boxes, manholes, or other areas of your house or property that you may need to access for maintenance purposes.

Climbers, Trees, and Window Boxes

Trellising climbing plants up the side of your home, particularly in areas with convenient, climbable drain pipes can discourage the cat-burglar from sneaking into upstairs windows.

Remember to prune any trees that may provide access to balconies or windows.

Consider an attractive but not-so-welcoming window box full of small cacti on the edge of your balcony to further thwart their efforts.

Let’s take a look at some of the best plants to secure your property from mischief-makers.

1. Agave

The most common member of the Agave genus is A. americana, otherwise known as the “century plant” or the “sentry plant.”

Native to Mexico and the southwestern US, this spiky slow-growing succulent is suitable for growers in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 11.

The century plant requires plenty of sun and well-draining soil. It is drought tolerant, ideal for xeriscapes, and is easily propagated from suckers.

It grows in an upright fashion with thick, spiny leaves that have a nasty point on the end. Each of these dagger-like leaves can grow three to four feet long, giving the plant a spread of six to eight feet.

With a mature height of three to six feet tall, agave creates a formidable barrier.

Usually blue-green, there are variegated cultivars available, such as A. americana ‘Marginata,’ which has bright green leaves with yellow edges.

You can plant several as a protective barrier, or use individual specimens underneath windows, or on the inside of fences to give intruders a nasty surprise.

Just be aware of how large the plant can grow. If you are planting it near your home, consider whether or not you would still be able to use a window as an escape route.

There are many species in the Agave genus, some of which are much smaller than the imposing century plant, and others are spineless.

The ‘Whale’s Tongue,’ A. ovatifolia, has a lower, more dense profile, with a mature height of three to four feet.

Often planted as ornamentals, the attractive foliage conceals a darker side.

The branches are covered with leaves that have a single thorn at each node, which makes barberry ideal for creating a dense, spiny hedge, or an impenetrable barrier.

Some non-native species are considered invasive and growing them is banned in some states, so be sure to check your local bylaws before you plant. Also note that not all varieties have thorns.

The Japanese barberry, B. thunbergii, also known as “burning bush” thanks to its brilliant red, striking foliage, was introduced to the US in the 19th century, and has become a popular ornamental shrub.

It usually grows in a mounding form and can protect vulnerable corners of your backyard, or provide a spiky welcome when planted underneath windows.

There are a number of cultivars that are well-suited to hedging. The three- to four-foot-tall varieties make a very useful barrier along the sides of driveways or walkways, and even as a perimeter hedge, allowing visibility over the top.

Another species of interest is the wintergreen barberry, B. julianae, native to central China, that grows up to eight feet tall and four to six feet wide. One of the hardiest types, wintergreen barberry has formidable spines.

A vigorous grower, this evergreen can be pruned into a large perimeter hedge or left to spread out. In autumn, the wintergreen will produce attractive yellow flowers and dark blue fruit.

Remember to wear gloves when handling these plants, and keep children and pets away from them.

There are two genera that encompass the barrel-shaped cacti: Echinocactus and Ferrocactus.

As its name suggests, barrel cactus grows in a rounded shape, with vicious spikes protruding from each of its ribs that radiate from the top of the barrel downwards.

Certainly no one, not even my mother-in-law, is going to sit on it. Not willingly, at least. Most are suitable for growers in Zones 9 to 11 and perform double duty as both a decorative talking point and an effective deterrent.

E. grusonii ‘Golden Barrel’ is native to Mexico and can grow up to three feet tall with a similar diameter at maturity. But it takes a long time to reach those dimensions.

Barrel cactus thrives in desert conditions and requires a lot of sun and very little water. It will tolerate some frost, but not over an extended period.

One or more can be planted in a rockery underneath a window, or at the bottom of fence lines.

Collecting sloes, however, is no fun. They grow on a deciduous shrub with dense branches and evil thorns.

Reaching through the branches for the small berries can be a painful experience thanks to the large spikes on its dark, almost black, bark.

The thorns stick out at right angles on the intertwined branches and can be up to two inches long. Growing in dense thickets, the blackthorn is commonly seen in its native England, along the edges of open fields.

Suitable for growers in Zones 4 to 8, blackthorn shrubs can grow up to 10 feet tall, and with minimal pruning can create a formidable barrier around the perimeter of a property. Alternatively, it can be pruned into a neat but dense and impenetrable hedge.

Being deciduous, it will drop its leaves in winter, and look somewhat scraggly. Its pretty white flowers herald the arrival of spring, appearing before the foliage.

Fast-growing blackthorn will tolerate almost any soil, and is somewhat salt-tolerant. Once established, it needs very little care except regular moisture – so it’s not suitable for very dry areas without additional irrigation.

Blackthorn will grow in part-shade or sunny locations. It’s best kept away from your house as it isn’t particularly decorative (especially in winter) and its height can compromise visibility.

Be extra careful when you are working with this plant, as the thorns have a nasty habit of breaking off under the skin and turning septic. Bear this in mind if you have pets, children, or are planting near paddocks used by livestock.

5. Blackberry

The name blackberry refers to a number of species in the genus Rubus that grow from a perennial crown and produce tart, edible fruit on upright canes from midsummer to fall. Suitable for growers in Zones 5 to 11, some varieties are hardy to Zone 3.

The most common species, R. fruticosus, is considered invasive in some areas thanks to its ability to grow rapidly, and it forms dense thickets of spiky, intertwined canes, up to five feet tall.

Blackberry is a rough, prickly shrub with tangled branches, and is often seen growing wild along hedgerows, in woodlands, or in neglected scrubland areas.

It’s a perennial plant but the fruiting canes are biennial. They set fruit in the second year and then die back. Blackberry is a vigorous grower, and will produce new canes every year.

The stems are covered in sharp prickles and, depending on the species, grow in an upright or trailing form.

The trailing types require quite a lot of pruning and support, not least to prevent them from taking over an area of the garden.

With diligent pruning, both the upright and the trailing varieties can be trained up the side of a building or fence, or they may left to grow naturally and fill in an exposed corner of a large yard.

Suitable for growers in Zones 9 and above, this plant thrives in heat and sunshine.

Bougainvillea spp. comprises 18 species, some climbing vines and others woody shrubs. This fast-growing plant is native to South America and is naturalized in many tropical countries in Africa and Asia.

The glorious inflorescence is made up of colorful bracts in pink, yellow, red, orange, or white.

My childhood home featured many different colorful bougainvillea plants.

We had them growing as shrubs along an exposed clifftop, with the spiky, woody branches creating a tangled barrier that bloomed brightly for most of the year.

On the side of the house, underneath upper story windows, it climbed up the wall. And around the two balconies, it did double duty as a showstopping display and an effective deterrent against unwanted nighttime visitors.

Bougainvillea thrives in well-draining soil, with regular deep waterings, and will tolerate drought. It needs a full sun location and hot temperatures. In cold or prolonged wet weather it may fail to bloom.

Once established, bougainvillea is easy to care for – with a little pruning. The thorny, dense branches can grow up to 40 feet long and will provide an impenetrable barrier in exposed areas.

The climbing varieties provide very efficient protection when trained over pergolas or other areas that may otherwise provide easy access upwards.

No one is going to climb up a drainpipe covered in bougainvillea. Its ornamental charm allows your landscape to look elegant, at the same time providing an effective defense against unwanted visitors.

Exercise caution when selecting where to plant it, particularly if you have children or pets, as the sap can cause a nasty skin reaction similar to that of poison ivy.

7. Californian Fuchsia

Also known as the fuchsia flowering gooseberry, Ribes speciosum is a deciduous shrub that bursts forth with bright red flowers in the spring that hang downwards, and resemble fuchsia – although the plants are not related.

Growing up to nine feet tall, R. speciosum has stems that are covered in spines, with three long protruding thorns at each stem node.

Native to California and Baja California, this plant is suitable for growers in Zones 7 and above, and thrives in shade or part shade locations. It is drought tolerant and evergreen – only losing its leaves in excessive heat and severe drought conditions.

Edible gooseberries will ripen in early summer. They are bitter, but when combined with plenty of sugar, can be cooked and made into jams and preserves.

Easy to grow, the Californian fuchsia thrives in almost any soil, and once established, will look after itself. Growing six to eight feet tall at maturity, you can prune it into a vicious hedge, or plant in beds underneath windows.

The delicate flowers are irresistible to hummingbirds, and make a beautiful specimen plant at strategic locations – for example, in a shady corner on the inside of your fence.

This small ornamental tree provides an abundance of fruit, sometimes called “Chinese dates” or “Chinese pear.”

Growing to a mature height of 15 to 40 feet, depending on the cultivar, the Chinese jujube can be pruned to maintain a more compact size.

Several planted close together can create a large hedge – with regular pruning. Suitable for growers in Zones 5 to 11, these trees are easy to grow, requiring well-drained soil and a sunny location.

Native to China, where they have been cultivated for over 4,000 years, species of the Ziziphus genus are found all across the temperate and tropical world. Depending on the cultivar, they may be thorny or thornless, so keep this in mind when shopping.

The young stems have gnarly thorns that can tear clothing and pierce your skin, but these trees gradually become less thorny the taller they grow.

To keep your Chinese jujube spiky, you’ll need to prune it regularly to encourage more new growth, and maintain a more bushy shape.

These particular rats, from the genus Neotoma, build nests and have discovered some unique ways of keeping out unwanted visitors. Intruders such as Gila monsters can be devastating to a rodent family, who are otherwise living a quiet life.

In areas where it is abundant, pack rats will collect the sharp spiny stems of the cholla cactus and place them at the entrance to their nests as protection from these marauding outsiders.

I don’t advise collecting stems, but a few carefully placed chollas will give your uninvited guests something to worry about.

Cholla cactus, also known as the jumping cactus, is native to desert regions of Mexico and the southeastern US. Suitable for growers in Zones 8 and higher, as with most cacti, they need dry, arid conditions to thrive.

There are 22 species of the Cylindropuntia genus, and the most recognizable is the teddy bear cactus, C. bigelovii, with its soft, furry appearance.

Make no mistake, the “fur” is made up of numerous barbed spines that will detach from the rounded stems and easily snag any unsuspecting passerby.

The spiky sections of the plant that appear to jump in fact do not jump, they are just very loosely attached to the plant, and the numerous tiny barbs very quickly snag anything nearby.

Painful to remove, if you have a couple of these plants on your property, no one is going to want to pay you an unexpected visit.

The teddy bear cholla is a slow growing, upright plant with branched stems that tops out at three to five feet tall.

Small specimens can be placed on the inside of fences, or as part of rock gardens, interplanted with cacti relatives such as the barrel cactus. Working with these plants is tricky, so growing them close to your home where maintenance may be required is not recommended.

They are easy to care for once established, as they require very little water and thrive in dry soil. Excessive watering will rot the roots and kill the plant.

You can usually find cholla cactus in nurseries and garden centers, but only in areas where they will grow well.

10. Common Holly

Common holly, Ilex aquifolium, is also known as Christmas holly or English holly. This evergreen shrub is both frost and drought tolerant.

Native to southern and western Europe, it is considered somewhat invasive in some areas of the US, although at the time of writing, it is not banned.

The leathery, dark green, glossy leaves have spiny margins, which readily attach to clothing, or tear skin. The dense, prickly leaves make holly an ideal hedge, and being evergreen, it looks good all year round.

Suitable for growers in Zones 5 to 9, common holly is easy to grow in full sun or part shade locations, and is commonly seen as understory shrub growing in its native English woodlands.

It’s fast-growing, and with regular pruning will quickly provide you with a spiny, impenetrable barrier to protect your perimeter.

This slow-growing shrub grows up to six feet tall, with spiky spines on the branches and stems. Red, pink, or white flowers with petal-like bracts appear throughout the year amongst its glossy light green leaves.

The sap is poisonous and can cause skin irritation, so care is needed when handling this plant. Grow in a full sun location in well-draining soil and be careful not to overwater, as wet feet can cause root rot.

Crown of thorns provides ornamental interest in the garden, and its thorny branches will give all but the most persistent intruder pause.

Plant under windows, on the inside of fences, or at vulnerable locations around your property to deter crooks.

The low profile of younger plants provides good visibility over the top when planted as an informal hedge. In winter, you can prune the plant to maintain a more compact shape, but make sure you wear leather gloves and proper protective clothing as the thorns can be vicious.

Crown of thorns grows well in containers, provided you do not overwater, and can provide a useful barrier on decks and patios, or to the side of doorways.

Native to the eastern US, this member of the ginseng family, Araliaceae, blooms in late summer with showy white flowers that attract bees and other pollinators.

Fast growing, it self seeds easily – leaving you with young specimens popping up in unwanted locations.

Small, inedible berries appear after flowering, and according to the USDA Forest Service, the roots, stems, and berries have been used historically for medicinal purposes by Native Americans and early settlers.

If you keep it pruned, the devil’s walking stick will maintain a shrubby, compact form, but it can grow into a large tree up to 20 feet tall.

Regular pruning will encourage vigorous, bushy growth. It’s commonly found growing wild at the edge of woodland areas and will form dense, thorny thickets of pain.

It’s best planted away from the house as it has a tendency to spread, and is useful on larger properties as a dense barrier of thorniness.

During wintertime when the leaves drop, it can be quite unattractive, so you won’t be planting this one for its ornamental appeal.

Devil’s walking stick can be hard to find at local nurseries and garden centers, but if you find some growing nearby, it’s easily propagated from seed or stem cuttings.

13. Giant Rhubarb

Contrary to what its name suggests, giant rhubarb – also known as dinosaur food – is not closely related to the rhubarb you use for pie-making. Gunnera manicata is native to Brazil and thrives in Zones 7 to 10.

This fast-growing herbaceous rhizomatous perennial loves moist, rich soil, and will grow enormous leaves, up to six feet wide.

It’s a big plant, growing up to eight feet high, with a spread of 12 feet at maturity. The stems and underside of the leaves are covered in prickles and make an impressive, impenetrable barrier.

The stalks and leaves are toxic, and the sap can cause skin irritation and rashes. In the early summer, large flower stalks will appear with cone-shaped inflorescences of tiny red flowers.

According to Bruce A. Osborne and Janet I. Sprent, from the Botany Department at University College, Dublin, molecular research indicates that the genus Gunnera has been in existence for over 95 million years.

So perhaps it was dinosaur food, after all. It certainly looks like something that would have grown amongst the giants.

An impressive ornamental plant, giant rhubarb is ideal for swampy wetland locations, and quickly creates a barrier that no one, not even my pet dinosaur, is going to want to try and breach.

Please don’t try and eat it, and wear protective clothing when you are handling the leaves or the stems. Plants can be obtained from local nurseries and garden centers and are easily propagated by seed or root division.

14. Hardy Orange

Hardy orange, Poncirus trifoliata, is native to China, and is a close relative of the citrus orange we know and love. Hardy to Zone 5, this multi-branched deciduous shrub – or small tree – provides ornamental interest in the garden.

The fragrant white blossoms appear in late spring and give way to small fruit in early fall. The fruit is edible, but extremely sour tasting – you won’t be squeezing it for your morning orange juice.

The branches are covered with evil-looking two-inch-long thorns, and with a dense, twisting growth habit, it will provide an excellent barrier.

With a mature height of 15 to 20 feet, this plant responds well to pruning and can be fashioned into a formal or informal hedge.

Although deciduous, the stems remain green throughout the winter, after the leaves have dropped.

Sometimes called the trifoliate orange – because the foliage has three leaflets – P. trifoliata was first introduced to the US in the mid-1800s.

Ideal as a perimeter barrier, or in vulnerable corners of your property, take care when planting near walkways or if you have children and pets. Remember to wear gloves and suitable protective clothing and eyewear when working with this plant.

15. Hawthorn

Hawthorn is a deciduous flowering shrub or small tree of the Crataegus genus. Native to temperate regions of Europe, Asia, and North America, it is commonly seen in cottage gardens, with pretty blooms in various different colors including pink, red, white, and bicolored.

Most species grow in a dense clumping form, and produce small, edible berries in the early fall.

These tart fruits can be used to make jams and preserves, and have been used in herbal remedies and in traditional Chinese medicine.

‘Paul’s Scarlet’ will delight with bright red flowers, and can be pruned into a clumping form, to provide a spiky barrier at the back of borders, or to cover up vulnerable areas of your yard.

English hawthorns are suitable for gardeners in Zones 5 to 8, and thrive in full sun locations with moist, well-draining soil.

16. Honey Locust

The honey locust, Gleditsia triacanthos, is a fast growing, deciduous tree native to the central US.

It looks like something out of your worst nightmare, with large clumps of thorns protruding from its trunk and branches – some up to eight inches long.

Honey locust thrives in Zones 3 to 8, and will grow into a shrubby, thorny clump unless pruned to encourage a single trunk.

A member of the Fabaceae family, honey locust flowers in late spring, with fragrant, cream-colored blooms.

It produces seed pods that mature in the fall, and bright green foliage gives way to autumnal yellow.

Caspian locust thrives in full sun and well-draining, but average soil.

The thorns on both of these species are monstrous, and need to be handled with respect. They will easily rip through all but the toughest leather gardening gloves, and eye protection is essential.

17. Japanese Quince

Native to eastern Asia, the Japanese quince, Chaenomeles speciosa, is suitable for growers in Zones 5 to 9.

This is a thorny, deciduous flowering shrub that produces tart, edible fruit. Growing in a mounded form, it matures to five to six feet tall and wide.

Its tangled, prickly stems can be pruned into a hedge, providing a spring profusion of pretty blooms in shades of pink, red, or white.

Several cultivars are available, such as ‘Falconnet Charlet,’ that blooms in early spring with salmon-pink flowers. It is suitable for planting as a thorny privacy screen, or as a back of border specimen plant.

‘Double Take Orange’ is a compact cultivar that tops out at four to five feet tall, and produces clusters of double-petaled bright orange blooms in early spring.

Ideal for low hedging, or planting underneath windows or as a part of mixed borders, it has ornamental appeal as well as providing a thorny welcome to anyone who comes close.

Sometimes called dwarf quince, this species is suitable for low hedging, or planting in any location where you require visibility over the top of plantings.

Japanese quince is fast growing, and performs best in a full sun location with well-draining soil. It’s highly adaptable and will tolerate dry or clay soil as long as there is good drainage.

Once established, plants are drought and heat tolerant.

18. Mesquite

If you live in certain parts of Texas, you’ll no doubt be familiar with the thorny mesquite bush that is almost impossible to remove once it’s established.

Sometimes referred to as the “devil tree,” mesquite has vicious thorns that can pierce a car’s tires.

The Prosposis genus – one of the few desert-growing legumes – contains about 40 species of shrubby deciduous trees, native to the southwestern US and Mexico.

They thrive in arid and semi-arid landscapes and with their long, spreading taproots can quickly outcompete other species in their quest for water.

The US native species, P. glandulosa, also known as honey mesquite, and P. velutina, or velvet mesquite, thrive in dry, arid areas of USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 9.

Non-native species, such as the Chilean, P. chilensis, and the Argentine, P. alba, are suitable for growers in Zones 9 to 11. Mesquites are adaptable to a wide range of growing conditions, and can tolerate drought and flooding.

With delicate green foliage, they produce creamy white flowers in spring, followed by seed pods that ripen in the fall.

Mesquite is a very effective perimeter plant, but it can be invasive. Young plants are fast-growing, and the shoots will spread rapidly and crowd out other plantings. As the shrub matures, its growth slows, and fewer thorns adorn the branches.

The Fouquieria genus contains 11 species of semi-succulent desert plants, and includes the bizarre-looking boojum tree, F. columnaris – often described as resembling something straight out of a Dr. Seuss book.

The ocotillo is known variously as candlewood, coachwhip, desert coral, Jacob’s staff, and – to add to the confusion – Jacob cactus and vine cactus.

Multiple long, upright, spiky canes grow from a short central trunk, and burst forth with dense clusters of glorious red blooms in springtime, attracting hummingbirds and other pollinators.

Native to the southwestern US and northern Mexico, ocotillo – “little torch” in Spanish – is hardy to Zone 7 and requires a full sun location and well-draining soil.

Perfect for xeriscapes, it needs very little water – overwatering will cause root rot. Rounded, fleshy leaves appear on the stiff stems soon after rain and drop quickly.

This slow-growing deciduous shrub can reach a mature height of 20 feet tall, with a spread of 15 feet.

The graceful canes are sturdy, up to two inches in diameter, and can be harvested to create a “living fence,” something akin to nature’s razor wire.

Canes are woven together using galvanized steel wire, and buried six inches deep – some may take root, and continue growing.

While you wait for your ocotillo to provide you with enough canes for your own fencing, consider planting it up against a wall or fence – or in a vulnerable corner of your property.

It’s also suitable for a layered planting, with low-level barrel cacti or smaller agaves in front of and surrounding the ocotillo. Any would-be intruder will think twice about trying to breach that barricade!

Approach this plant with caution, and always wear sturdy gloves and eye protection when handling it.

Find tips on growing and caring for ocotillo here.

20. Oregon Grape

The Oregon grape, Mahonia aquifolium, has very little to do with home winemaking – and it isn’t even a grape.

Sometimes called Oregon grape holly or hollyleaved barberry, this evergreen shrub is from the same botanical family as Berberis, the barberry.

Native to the western US, Oregon grape is suitable for growers in Zones 5 to 8. It’s easy to confuse the Oregon grape with common holly, Ilex aquifolium, the European native spiny-leaved hedging shrub – but they are unrelated.

Come springtime, it blooms with clusters of bright yellow, fragrant flowers that attract bees and other pollinators.

In late summer to early fall, it produces bunches of edible, grape-like berries. The tart fruit can be eaten fresh or made into jam – or the juice can be fermented into an alcoholic beverage that is unlikely to rival your vintage Claret.

Large orange-yellow thorns display prominently along the branches and sprout from the leaf surface, in a decadent display of wickedness. Even the bracts surrounding the fruit have their own mini thorns.

It’s a plant that says “look at me” and “go away” in the same breath. Small purple flowers contrast with the green foliage and orange armor – appearing from late spring and lasting all through summer.

Native to Madagascar, the land of cuddly lemurs, S. pyracanthos is a member of the nightshade family, which includes potatoes, eggplant, and tomatoes.

Suitable for growers in Zones 9 to 11, this fast-growing evergreen shrub can reach a mature height of four feet, with a spread of up to three feet.

It requires a full sun location, with well-draining, organically rich soil, and consistent moisture – and it is not frost tolerant. It will self-seed easily, and even the tiniest saplings are viciously thorned.

Plant along fence lines, in borders, in mass plantings of potential pain, or in containers to keep its size in check – just looking at one of these should send most thieves elsewhere!

Another interesting species, S. atropurpureum, also known as “malevolence,” is a sturdy shrub, topping out at five feet tall at maturity with a similar spread. Dense thorns adorn its dark purple stems and grow on the top and bottom of the leaves.

Yellow flowers appear in midsummer, and give way to small green fruit that matures to bright yellow. Two or more plants grown together make for a truly malevolent thicket of dark thorniness.

22. Prickly Pear

Prickly pear refers to a number of species in the genus Opuntia, the most cold tolerant of all cacti native to the US.

Some species, such as  O. humifusa, are cold-hardy to parts of Zone 4. This plant is traditionally grown for its edible fruit – the prickly pear, also known as nopal or tuna fruit.

The modified stems grow into flat, succulent pads that store water and are adorned with multiple sharp thorns that can penetrate the toughest leather.

In addition to this obvious body armor, the prickly pear has a second line of defense.

Tiny spines – called glochids – are thinner than a human eyelash and look a little bit like fur. At the slightest touch, they’ll embed themselves into your skin and clothes – and removal is almost impossible.

Prickly pear is easily rooted from stem cuttings, and can be kept trimmed by pruning at the joints. The fruit grows on the edge of the stems.

It produces beautiful blooms in a variety of colors – depending on the species – from yellow and red bicolored flowers to bright pink or red.

Suitable for xeriscapes and dry, arid areas, the prickly pear thrives in well-draining soil in a full sun location.

Smaller species can top out at six to 12 inches tall, while others grow to a commanding height of over 10 feet tall, in the right conditions.

Low-growing varieties are ideal for planting underneath windows, and a combination of both large and small specimens make a formidable, impenetrable perimeter barrier.

Be mindful of your planting location, particularly if you have children or pets.

Read more about growing prickly pear cactus here.

Collaborative post

One of the most common parenting goals is to raise a healthy child. Ensuring your child develops sound physical, emotional, and mental health is a challenge that requires patience, knowledge, and consistency. In today’s fast-paced world, where you are bombarded with many conflicting opinions and messages, deciding the best way to approach this challenge can be overwhelming.

However, by sticking to some simple and proven methods, you can create an environment that promotes a healthy lifestyle for your child. Whether it’s ensuring a balanced diet, encouraging physical activity, limiting screen time, or fostering positive relationships, these tips will help you give your child the best possible start.

Provide a balanced diet

A healthy diet is essential for a child’s growth and development. A balanced diet must include fruits, vegetables, lean proteins, and whole grains. It’s also a good idea to limit their intake of processed foods, sugary beverages, and high-fat foods. Additionally, ensure that your child eats regular meals and snacks to maintain their energy levels throughout the day.

These days you can find packaged meals and snacks that help maintain a well-balanced diet for children. Try them as a convenient option to ensure your child gets the nutrients in their daily meals. Buying from reputable sellers like Serenity Kids ensures your child receives the best food. Be sure to check the ingredients and nutrition facts before buying, especially if your child is allergic to certain ingredients.

Encourage physical activity

Physical activity is also essential for children’s growth and development. Regular exercise helps maintain their overall health, keeps them active, reduces stress, and strengthens their bones and muscles.

Aim to encourage your child to engage in activities such as running, playing outdoors, or sports. You can also buy them indoor play equipment to keep them active in the house. For more outdoorsy kids, things like kites and frisbees are great as they combine fun with physical activity.

Encourage adequate sleep

Adequate sleep is vital for children to function and stay healthy. Sleep helps them rest and relax, improves concentration levels at school, boosts their immunity, and strengthens cognitive function. Children’s sleep duration varies based on age, but 8-10 hours per day is generally recommended.

To ensure your child has quality sleep, establish a bedtime routine. Introduce calming activities like reading stories or taking warm baths before bed. Avoid exposing your child to bright screens or loud noises close to bedtime, as these can disrupt sleep cycles.

Keep the home environment clean and safe

Maintaining a clean and safe environment is also crucial for your child’s health. Ensure your home is free of pollutants, such as dust, mould, and toxic chemicals. A well-ventilated home is also vital to reduce the risk of exposure to allergens and germs.

Ensure that hazardous items such as sharp objects, cleaning chemicals, and medications are kept out of reach of children. Additionally, install safety measures such as fire alarms, window guards, and stair gates to prevent accidents in the home. Keep your child’s toys and play area clean and disinfected regularly. For older kids, ensure they are supervised in areas such as the kitchen, bathroom, or outdoors.

Encourage healthy habits

Instilling healthy habits in your children from an early age is important if you want them to lead a healthy life later on. Teach your kids about basic hygiene, like brushing their teeth twice daily, washing hands often, and covering their mouths while coughing or sneezing. These healthy habits help to prevent the spread of germs and diseases.

As a parent, you greatly influence your child’s behaviour. Make sure you’re modelling healthy behaviour for your child. Eat healthy meals together, exercise regularly, and prioritise self-care. Additionally, avoid smoking, excessive drinking, and other unhealthy habits in front of your kids.

Maintain regular medical check-ups

Regular medical check-ups are important for your child’s overall health. Schedule regular doctor visits to monitor your kid’s growth, development, and vaccination status. This helps in identifying any potential health risks early on and accessing timely treatment. You should also consider investing in a health insurance plan to cover any medical expenses for your child.

Be aware of your child’s physical or emotional changes too. If your child is experiencing any health problems, consult your doctor immediately.

Limit screen time

Excessive screen time can result in various health problems, such as obesity, sleep issues, and poor eyesight. Limiting your child’s screen time on a daily basis will encourage good habits. Alternatively, encourage your kids to engage in games, puzzles, and other activities that don’t involve screens. You could also opt for family-friendly shows, or content that’s educational and entertaining at the same time.

Controlling screen time also helps your child focus better on the tasks they need to complete. Establish rules and set specific times during which your child can access screens. You can also use parental control tools to monitor their use of screens. This will ensure they only access age-appropriate content and websites.

Communicate with your child

It’s important to stay connected with your child and maintain an open line of communication. Regularly talk to your children about their day, their emotions, and any issues they may face. Encourage them to ask questions or express their opinions without fear of judgement, which will help them build trust.

Be patient with your child and avoid passing judgement, scolding them for making mistakes, or raising your voice when communicating, as it may scare or intimidate them. Acknowledge their feelings, even if you disagree with them. This shows your child that their opinions are valued. Additionally, try to be empathetic and patient while listening to your child. Show them you care and provide positive feedback so they feel secure and appreciated.

Create a nurturing home

Children thrive in nurturing and loving environments. Try to create a positive and loving atmosphere in your home. Show love and affection to your child, spend quality time with them by doing things like nature crafts, and praise their efforts and achievements. Additionally, listen to their concerns and provide a safe and supportive environment for them to share their thoughts and feelings. Encourage your child to socialise and spend time with positive and supportive individuals, and teach them conflict resolution skills.

Raising a child is an ongoing process that requires patience and dedication. As a parent, it’s crucial to establish a healthy lifestyle for your children from an early age. Practising healthy habits and giving your child the necessary support and guidance will help them grow and develop into responsible individuals. Have realistic expectations of your child, be understanding, and encourage them to be independent and make informed decisions.

Summer flowering bulbs provide some of the most striking colours in the garden, providing full-on shows and an encore all summer long. But in the winter, what happens if you decide not to dig up your bulbs and leave them to fend for themselves? Growing these flowers as annual flower bulbs is an easy way to kick your feet up at the display with half the work.

Real talk here. Your summer flowering bulbs may not overwinter. And that’s okay! So often, folks add too much guilt to planting tender summer flowering bulbs and ensuring they dig them all up to overwinter them.

To this, I say pfft! Ditch the guilt and grab a cocktail instead.

Bulbs have some of the showiest flowers around for the garden and, as an added bonus, cost less than buying large annuals sold in pots. Enjoy the beauty of the flowers for what they are during the summer, then forget about them in the fall. You can always get more next year.

The garden should be an area of refuge. When we worry too much about making them perfect, they become stress inducing, precisely the opposite of their intention. So relax, connect to nature, and use these instructions for growing these plants as annual flower bulbs instead!

SPONSOR GIVEAWAY: Be sure to read through to the end for a very exciting summer flowering bulbs giveaway courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com! And it’s big. REALLY big!

This post will cover…

Sponsored Content: I’m so excited to partner with FlowerBulbs.com to share the beauty of summer flowering bulbs. The most stunning summer flowers often come from bulbs, rhizomes, corms, and tubers. They’re available now in catalogues and in-store, so get your hands on some to save on showstopping plants.

Summer Flowers to Plant as Annual Bulbs

When you make your annual visit to the garden centre in March and April (or many times if you’re like me), you’ll probably see a big display of summer flowering bulbs for sale.

These premium bulbs come in all kinds of vibrant colours, thanks to their subtropical origins. So you will surely have a stunning display if you choose some for your garden.

In my experience, these are the summer flowering bulbs most commonly available:

If you want more specific growing instructions for each of these bulbs (and a few more!), check out my guide to summer flowering bulbs.

While I’m encouraging you to plant these bulbs as summer annuals, many of them could come back the following year, depending on where you live. They have the potential to be hardy!

When to Plant Summer Flowering Bulbs

Summer flowering bulbs are sunshine babies, so they don’t like the cold very much. You will want to plant these bulbs after the threat of frost has passed.

Start them in early April if your climate allows it, but you can plant them until the end of May.

If you live in a very cold climate with extended frosts, you can still get ahead with this timeline, growing them in containers instead and starting the bulbs indoors instead. Then, you can simply pick up the container and move it outside when the frost has passed.

How to Grow Annual Flower Bulbs for Summer

Each bulb will have specific growing instructions, so be sure to read the label before planting. That being said, here are some general guidelines to follow:

• Plant the bulbs twice the depth as they are tall. Begonias and dahlias are the main exceptions, as they should be planted just below the surface.
• Use a trowel to dig your holes. Space out smaller varieties 10 cm apart and 25-30 for larger varieties like begonias, lilies, and dahlias.
• Point the roots down and the ‘nose’ of the bulb upward.
• After planting, give the bulbs a good watering. Keep watering the bulbs if it’s a dry spring.
• Plant the bulbs in areas with full sun (at least 6 hours of sunlight a day).

Growing Summer Flowering Bulbs in Containers

You can also create brilliant container gardens by planting them in containers. The planting instructions are pretty well the same, but here are some extra tips for growing them in containers.

• You can pack in the bulbs a little tighter than you would in the ground for a more colourful display.
• Choose a container with enough depth for the flowers and drainage holes.
• Use a potting soil mix. This will ensure the plant has enough drainage and circulation.
• Play with various heights, putting the tallest bulbs in the back. Also, see if you can stagger flowering times with early, mid-season, and late-blooming flowers.

As mentioned above, this works great for those with extended winter conditions and a shorter summer season. Start the bulbs 4-6 weeks before the last frost in a container, and then place them in a sunny window. Only water a little until you spot some growth. Then, move it outside once all threats of any frosty evenings pass.

What Happens If I Don’t Dig Up My Bulbs?

So, if you do leave your bulbs in the ground, what happens? Well, first of all, you can take a breather and enjoy the last bit of the summer sunshine before it disappears for the fall.

If you have a really cold winter, your bulbs will freeze and die, left to compost in the ground. They won’t return the following year. BUT, you’re no worse off than buying annuals and planting them.

Or, you might experience a mild winter or have an interesting microclimate. Then you get a little unexpected bonus of them returning the following year!

Growing these as annual flower bulbs is really a perspective change. Don’t get attached to them coming back, but if they do, you get a little something to be thankful for.

And if you really love your bulbs, you can certainly dig them up and store them for the winter. I have a whole guide on how to do that too. This works if you have the time and room to do so and if you want to save some pennies on buying them again the next spring.

HUGE Summer Flowering Bulbs Giveaway!

I promised a big ol’ giveaway, so here it is!

Together with Flowerbulbs.com, I’m giving away a total of $1000 in summer flowering bulbs for you to plant this summer guilt-free!

And better yet, there will be three lucky winners. One winner will receive $500 of summer flowering bulbs in the US, while two winners will receive $250 in Canada.

You have three ways to enter. The more you enter, the better your chances! You can enter by:

This contest is open to those in the continental USA and Canada (except Quebec and where prohibited) only. The contest closes on May 3, 2023, where I will use a random number generator to select the winner.

Over the last weeks I released two videos, one titled Comfrey is Terrible, and the other follow-up video, Comfrey is Amazing.

In doing so, I hope to illustrate that no plant or gardening method is really a “one size fits all” solution. Though comfrey grew poorly for us in Florida, it grew great in Tennessee. In one location, it’s indestructible, in the other, it’s a whiny little fussy wimpy baby.

I’m so tempted to make the title of my next video “Comfrey is So-So.”

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Are you looking for advice on the best compost for pots and hanging baskets?  This guide covers everything you need to know about choosing the right compost for your container plants.

What is the best compost for container gardening?

Naturally we all want our plants to grow strong and healthy.  Getting the compost right is a key part of helping your plants to thrive.  And not all compost is the same.

If you’re not sure where to start when it comes to using the right compost for potted plants, you’re in the right place.

A guide to the best compost for pots and hanging baskets

In this article we’ll take a look at the best compost for containers and pots, and why it’s important to choose the right product.

We’ve also included our picks of the best garden compost for plants, seeds, hanging baskets, cuttings, vegetables and indoor plants grown in pots, to save you lots of time and effort.

Why you should use the right compost for outdoor pots

Every type of plant has its own ideal conditions for growing.  These conditions include the amount of light, heat, water and nutrients available to the plant.  Get these conditions right, and your plant has a good chance of doing well.

Compost is hugely important when it comes to the nutrients available to your plant.  Yes, you can help by using plant food, but the compost should be doing the main job of providing nutrients.  This is even more important when a plant is grown in a pot, because the roots have limited access to compost and can’t reach out to a wider area to get the nutrients they need.

Using the right compost for pots also has an impact on watering.  Plants grown in pots tend to dry out quicker than plants grown in the ground, but on the flip side pots can also become waterlogged if the container itself doesn’t have enough drainage holes.  The balance to aim for is a compost that has an open structure which allows water to drain, but that also has a texture which allows for some water retention.

As you can see, it’s a very good idea to get the right compost for pots and baskets.  It will keep your plants looking good for longer, save time on maintenance, and help you avoid having to replace plants on a regular basis.

What exactly is compost?

Before we dive into the best compost for pots, let’s take a minute to understand what compost is.

The Cambridge Dictionary defines compost as “decaying plant material that is added to soil to improve its quality.”

When you buy a bag of compost, it’s essentially organic matter which is designed to improve soil, or support plants grown in specific conditions – such as containers.

In contrast, soil is a mixture of organic matter and inorganic matter such as sand, rocks, and water.  The organic materials can provide nutrients, but this is usually at lower levels than in compost.

What is the difference between potting compost and garden compost?

When choosing the best compost for garden containers, it’s important to also understand the difference between garden compost and potting compost.

Garden compost is the homemade compost you find in a compost bin.  It’s made from rotted-down plant, vegetable and fruit waste, and can also include things like grass cuttings and cardboard.  Garden compost is great for improving the structure of soil and adding nutrients, but it’s not the same as potting compost.

Potting compost is designed specifically for use with plants grown in pots and containers.  It’s not a soil improver; it’s an alternative to soil.  The texture of potting compost is lighter than garden compost, and it has the right balance of nutrients to support plants growing in pots.

Can I use garden compost in pots?

Garden compost is very nutrient rich, and as such it’s not ideal to use it on its own in pots and containers.  Too much compost in a container could damage and even kill your plants.

Is it OK to mix compost with potting soil?

You can mix a little garden compost into your potting compost to give established container plants a boost.

You can also add garden compost to used potting compost to top up the nutrients.  As well as being a great way to practice eco-friendly gardening, this can also help you to garden on a budget.

Is topsoil better than compost for pots?

As the name suggests, topsoil is the top layer of the soil in your garden.  As such, it’s where all your plants grow – so should you be using topsoil instead of compost for your pots and containers?

It’s tempting to just use some of your garden soil in your pots, but it’s not a great idea for a number of reasons.

Why can’t I use garden soil in pots?

Garden soil is usually too heavy and dense for containers.  Worms and microorganisms do a great job of keeping it aerated when it’s in your garden, but if you put it in a pot it will become compacted.  Once this happens, drainage becomes a problem. Water either runs straight off causing plants to dry out, or your plants end up sitting in a puddle which ultimately rots their roots.

You will also struggle to provide your plants with the nutrients they need from garden soil.  As we mentioned above, soil usually contains less nutrients than compost.  This means your plants will find it harder to grow and stay healthy if they have access to soil alone.

Finally, using garden soil in pots runs the risk of transferring harmful bacteria to your lovely container plants – and nobody wants that!

Managing water levels in potting compost

As we’ve already mentioned, getting the water levels right in potted plants can be a tricky business.  You don’t want your plants to be parched, but you don’t want them to get waterlogged either.

If you’re worried about your pots drying out too quickly, you can add some *water retaining crystals to your compost.  These will help to keep moisture levels more consistent and reduce the need for watering.  You might also find our effective watering tips and our guide to drought tolerant plants useful.

If water-logging is more of a concern, adding *perlite to your compost will help to improve drainage.  Using containers with plenty of drainage holes and raising your pots on *pot feet will also help.

What is the best soil mix for pots?

Obviously, gardening in containers covers a range of different projects, including growing plants from seed, growing young plants, growing vegetables, growing established plants, and growing indoor plants. We’re going to cover each of these in this roundup of the best compost for pots.

How to choose the right potting compost for garden pots and baskets

Now we’ve covered what potting compost is, and why it’s a great idea to use it for container plants, let’s take a look at options for potting compost available to buy.

Is multi purpose compost OK as potting soil?

Multi-purpose potting compost is a good option for most container gardening projects.  If you’d like to keep things simple, choosing one of the best peat free compost for pots is a safe bet.

Best multi-purpose potting compost

*Miracle-Gro Premium all purpose peat free compost

This well-known brand of potting compost is ideal for pots, hanging baskets and seedlings.  It’s also suitable for growing vegetables.  It contains smart granules that release nutrients for up to three months.

*Westland New Horizon peat free multi purpose compost

Another good multi-purpose option, Westland New Horizon peat free compost has a unique formulation that provides optimum structure, water retention and nutrients for container plants.  It’s suitable for ornamental plants, fruit and vegetables, seedlings and cuttings.

Best sustainable potting compost

*Coco Boost all purpose compost

Coir compost is naturally peat-free and sustainable, and a very clean growing medium.  This nutrient-enriched coir block is rehydrated with water and is ideal for growing seeds and cuttings, potting on young plants, and container displays.

*Dalefoot Wool Compost

A multi-purpose premium potting compost, this is rich in nutrients and has great water retention, making it ideal for thirsty pots and planters.

Best compost for seeds

*John Innes seed sowing compost

Seedlings thrive in light compost that allows their small stems to push through easily.  This peat-free John Innes compost is enriched with coir, loam and vermiculite for optimum texture, plus balanced nutrients to support germination and growth.

*Dalefoot fine wool seed compost

This premium potting compost is made from bracken and wool, and offers a sustainable and peat-free way to raise healthy seedlings.  It’s nutrient rich and has excellent water retaining properties.

Best compost for cuttings

*Coco Grow+ seed & cutting compost

Cuttings need a similar compost to seeds and seedlings: loose and free-draining.  This coconut coir block provides both.

Best compost for hanging baskets

Hanging baskets dry out quickly, so you need a potting compost that can combat this if possible.

*Miracle-Gro peat free premium moisture control compost

As well as plenty of controlled release nutrients, this compost has a water retaining agent to keep hanging baskets happy.

*SylvaGrow peat free potting compost

Another good all-rounder that is suitable for hanging baskets – you can mix in water retaining granules to help control moisture levels.

Best garden compost for vegetables

If you’re growing vegetables in pots and want to use peat free compost (and here’s why you should), the easy option is to choose multi-purpose potting compost.

Both *Westland New Horizon peat free multi purpose compost and *Miracle-Gro premium all purpose peat free compost are suitable for use with container fruit and vegetables.

We’re also starting to see peat-free potting compost designed specifically for fruit and vegetables, such as:

*Miracle-Gro Performance Organics Fruit & Veg peat free compost

This compost is 100% organic while also delivering on performance.  It’s enriched with slow-release nutrients and contains natural hollow wood fibres to ensure an optimum balance of air and water.

Best compost for indoor plants

*Houseplant Focus repotting mix

This peat-free houseplant compost is designed to support houseplants with balanced nutrients to encourage vigorous, healthy growth.

*Westland Houseplant potting mix

If you like the idea of low maintenance houseplants, this is good compost option.  It has added Seramis granules to regulate water intake, and perlite to help with airflow and drainage.

How often should you change compost in pots?

Inevitably, the compost in a pot will eventually become exhausted and no longer able to provide enough nutrients for the plants.  At this point, it’s time to refresh or replace the compost.

How often this needs to be done can vary, depending on the size of the pot and the number of plants the compost is supporting.  Somewhere between six months and two years is a likely timeframe.

If your container plants are looking less healthy, or have stopped growing, it may be time to replace the compost.

Take the plant out of the pot, and gently remove any loose compost without damaging the roots.  Repot the plant using fresh compost, and water thoroughly.

You can also give potted plants a mini-refresh by simply removing the top layer of compost and replacing it.

Should I repot with compost or soil?

You should always use potting compost when repotting container plants.  As we covered earlier, soil won’t provide the right nutrients and structure for potted plants, and can introduce bacteria.

More container gardening advice

We hope you’ve found this guide to the best compost for pots and hanging baskets useful, and feel confident about choosing the best garden compost to help your container garden thrive.  Happy gardening 🪴

If you’d like to explore more container gardening resources, we’ve got plenty to keep you busy.

If you’ve enjoyed this post and found it useful, here are some ways you can say thanks and support Growing Family:

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What are open mosaic habitats?

• Found on post-industrial sites, which might include railway sidings, quarries, slag heaps or brick pits.
• A lack of nutrients keeps vegetation open, without the arrival of shrubs and trees that result from natural succession.
• Different kinds of usage and varied disturbance create divergent topographies, moisture, and soil content all within close proximity, on one site.
• Patches of bare soil within an open mosaic habitat create warm microclimates, for basking invertebrates (or mud-bathing birds). They are used by ground nesters and are hunting ground for predators.
• Stress-tolerant plants, including annuals rich in nectar, thrive in lean landscapes.
• Lack of management creates homes for overwintering insects.

When landscape consultant and garden writer Jo McKerr moved to Somerset, the property that she and her family took on was located on a well-drained, limestone escarpment in a rural area that had seen quarries, railways, coal, and slag heaps—some of which were in her garden. The soil was toxic, with a disused railway running through, plus a former canal tunnel (see above), and a lot of concrete. The property was also home to very rare species of bats, beetles, and bees. Besides not wanting to disturb what she found, Jo has a passion for wild flowers, and from the beginning she has responded and adapted her design process “to what is indigenous to the site.”

Jo has nurtured the extant open mosaic habitats, which gardeners are in a unique position to do. “It’s not just about one habitat but a mosaic of them in close proximity to one another,” she explains. “Rewilding has taught us that it’s disturbance, followed by abandonment, when the natural processes occur,” she continues. Her current practice is “an informed disturbance.”

Jo is very gradually changing the nature of the soil by following its natural tendencies around the garden. She is incorporating wetlands, gravel areas, woodland, and layered canopy. The transition zones interest her: “I’m building habitats and possibilities.”

Jo sows everything from seed, only buying in trees and shrubs as young whips. When she has used 9-inch pots, she has shaken off every bit of soil from the plants’ roots: “You have to make sure the nutrient is lean.” The point of lean soil, as her friend John Little would concur, is that plants grow strong, their roots searching right down for moisture, and this gives them resilience in extreme weather. “I don’t water and I’ve never lost a thing.”

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Steve, who lives in the heart of Los Angeles in Southern California, shared some beauties of this garden with us recently (Steve’s Southern California Garden), and today we’re back to enjoy more of the beauties from this diverse garden.

Container plantings lined up on the deck include lots of succulents and beautiful foliage.

The foliage of this Aloe is beautiful, but wow, those flowers put this over the top.

Who needs flowers when you have this beautiful variegated foliage?

The blooms of Leucospermum cordifolium, a native of South Africa, are exquisite.

Succulents can be nearly as colorful as flowers, and very durable, especially in a climate like Southern California’s.

Sonchus pinnatifidus is a dramatic plant from the Canary Islands with dramatic, sawtooth foliage and huge clusters of yellow blooms.

This dragonfly visitor to the garden is as beautiful as any flower.

Another beautiful Leucospermum bloom leaning down over a blue succulent makes a perfect combination.

California poppies (Eschscholzia californica, annual) are usually yellow, but this is a beautiful pink form.

Perfect flowers with glistening water droplets

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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You might not have heard of calibrachoa (ca-libra-KO-a) before, but these heavy bloomers are often loved at first sight.

In USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11, they’re wonderful perennials but are considered annuals throughout most of the US.

Calibrachoas are commonly grown in containers due to their higher moisture needs, often making it harder to ensure they’re kept well-fed.

There’s a lot of debate about what NPK to use for this plant, but many of the recommended fertilizers lack what this plant needs for its numerous flowers.

Note: Since this plant genus only hit the market in the 1990s, there’s still a lot we don’t know about it, and the many cultivars that have sprung up since further muddy the waters.

The following recommendations are thus based upon all currently available information on this plant and may change as our understanding of calibrachoas grows.

Best Fertilizer for Calibrachoa

It is recommended to feed calibrachoas a balanced liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks.

However, there are a few additional details to consider.

Understanding NPK

When purchasing fertilizer, you’ll see three numbers on the package.

Known as the NPK ratio, this indicates how much of the three most vital nutrients is in the fertilizer.

These three nutrients are:

• Nitrogen (N) – Essential for the development of foliage.
• Phosphorus (P) – Promotes healthy blooms.
• Potassium (K) – Needed for strong stems and a good immune system.

Additionally, fertilizer has many other important nutrients, such as calcium and iron.

These are generally found on a much smaller label somewhere on the packaging.

Calibrachoas need a lot of nitrogen and will show visible signs of distress if they don’t get enough, usually in the form of yellowing leaves.

Potassium is another important nutrient for calibrachoas due to the number of blooms they create.

This can be a problem with many fertilizers with high nitrogen, as they’ll often have a lower phosphorus level.

Granular vs. Liquid-Soluble

Another important consideration is whether to use a granular slow-release or liquid-soluble fertilizer.

Those who argue for granular fertilizers often claim they require less effort since the granules will slowly break down over time.

Unfortunately, the nutrients within these granules don’t break down at the same rate, resulting in the plant getting too much of one nutrient and not enough of another at any given time.

Meanwhile, liquid-soluble fertilizers are designed to be diluted in water and can be given while you water your plants.

The soil must be slightly dampened before applying the fertilizer to avoid the risk of chemical burns and improve saturation.

However, the nutrients contained within are instantly available to the plant.

Even more importantly, diluting a liquid fertilizer is easy, allowing you to fine-tune the dosages to meet a specific plant’s needs.

Choosing and Using a Calibrachoa Fertilizer

We’ve found that the overall best fertilizer to use on calibrachoas is a 10-10-10 NPK liquid soluble fertilizer.

Follow all instructions on the package and dilute to half-strength.

You must apply the fertilizer once every 2 to 3 weeks during the growing season.

Pay attention to your particular plant and adjust the frequency until you find a feeding pattern that works just right.

Note that some calibrachoa growers like to add slow-release granules at the time of planting and then switch to liquid fertilizer.

While not necessary, these plants prefer acidic soils, so adding an acidic fertilizer to a fresh potting medium can help lower the pH.

If you choose to do this, you will want to start using the liquid fertilizer every three weeks, then increase it closer to two weeks as the granules wear down.

There’s an ongoing battle between plant owners with nothing to do with which plant is better or what it should be called.

This battle is, of course, over fertilizer.

We won’t get deep into the debate here, but one of the biggest debates is whether liquid-soluble fertilizers are better or worse than granular fertilizers.

One particular difference is in shelf life, and while we’re going to avoid the greater debate, this is one point well worth looking at in detail.

So let’s take a look at how well granular fertilizers hold up in storage, then compare this to the shelf life of some other popular fertilizer types.

How Long Can Granular Fertilizer Be Stored?

When properly stored, granular fertilizers can remain usable indefinitely.

However, the methods you use for storage are key, and knowing if that storage has been compromised can help you identify whether the fertilizer has gone bad.

Synthetic vs. Organic Granular Fertilizers

One important distinction we need to make is that there’s a big difference between synthetic and organic granule lifespans.

Synthetic granules will last indefinitely, and no longitudinal studies show the granules going bad after even decades of storage.

However, organic granules rely on organic materials and generally have a shelf life of about 5 years.

This is because they contain microbial life essential for the granules to break down properly.

Beyond this difference in lifespan, there is very little difference between the two; we will only distinguish between them when necessary.

The Best Way to Store Granular Fertilizer

Storing granular fertilizer isn’t difficult, and following a few simple rules will allow you to keep the fertilizer in perfect condition for years.

When possible, keep the fertilizer in its original bag.

This provides a layer of protection, prevents granules from escaping, and can help you identify the type of fertilizer you’re storing.

As many people have plants that need different fertilizers, that last point can be especially important.

Secondly, you will want to place the fertilizer bag in an airtight container.

Plastic and metal work equally well, and keeping it airtight will avoid the risk of pests or fungal spores getting in and ruining the granules.

Finally, choose a cool, dry place to store the fertilizer container, preferably away from sunlight.

A garage, basement, or shed can all be great choices if they don’t get too hot in the summer.

How NOT to Store Granular Fertilizer

So now that we’ve looked at the best way to store granular fertilizer, let’s look at some of the things you SHOULDN’T do.

First of all, never leave the fertilizer bag in direct sunlight.

The sunlight can heat the bag, cooking away some nutrients.

This is especially true of organic granular fertilizers, which may begin to break down in the sunlight.

Another risk is allowing the granules to get wet.

Synthetic granules will tend to clump if exposed to high humidity or moisture, and while they can be broken apart again, they’re not as easy to use once this happens.

Meanwhile, organic granules can become infected with mold or begin to break down, slowly spoiling the entire bag.

Heat will cause the nitrogen content in many ingredients to break down into gas, which can further affect the quality of your granules.

As you can see, this is why it’s important to store your granules in an airtight container somewhere cool, dry, and away from the sun.

Doing so will preserve the granules, but failing to do so can reduce their quality or even ruin them.

Comparing Lifespans for Other Fertilizer Types

Finally, let’s take a brief moment to look at a few other types of fertilizer to see how they compare regarding shelf life.

Synthetic liquid-soluble fertilizers can last long when stored properly, with a potential lifespan of 8 years or more.

Dry crystallized fertilizers can last indefinitely when stored properly.

Depending on the product, organic liquid-soluble fertilizers can last up to 8 years.

Mineral-based liquid fertilizers can last for up to 10 years.

Last but not least, fertilizers that contain a microbial element or herbicides, such as weed and feed fertilizers, will last between 2 and 4 years when properly stored.

Summer is now fast approaching and this means that we will soon be enjoying warmer weather, longer nights, and the chance to spend time in the garden. There is nothing like spending time in the backyard whether this is firing up the grill and having friends over, watching the kids play, or simply relaxing with a good book. While summer is the perfect time for relaxing in the garden, you will find that the increased usage can take its toll on your lawn. This is why you need to know how to best prepare your lawn for the warmer months of the year.

Source

Prepping Your Lawn

There are a few steps that you should take now that will get your lawn in good condition for the warmer and busier months of the year. This includes removing any debris, mowing the lawn, removing moss and weeds, and feeding the lawn with good quality lawn feed (the lawn will be growing in spring and summer, so you want to provide regular feeding). If you have any patchy spots after winter, you can over-seed these areas to fill in gaps and create balance. 

 

What Can Damage Your Lawn

It is also helpful to know what can damage your lawn so that you can protect or mitigate damage. Many people end up damaging their lawns during the summer months due to trampling because of parties, kids playing, pets, and furniture on the grass. You want to make the most out of the garden during summer, but you should try to find ways to protect the turf. This could involve putting down protecting flooring or installing decking to provide a social space and an area for furniture. Additionally, objects that have to be impaired in the grass, such as small lamp posts, can cause damage. You can avoid this with the use of battery holders in a sealed case, this way objects can sit on the lawn rather than dig into it. 

 

Other ways that people harm their lawns include over or under-watering, over-fertilizing, and cutting the grass too short. This is why it is important to educate yourself on proper lawn maintenance and to create a routine that will help you to keep your lawn healthy throughout the year. You also need to make sure that you have high-quality gardening tools that will make it easy for you to maintain your lawn.

 

There are few things better than spending time in the backyard during the summer months whether this is enjoying food and drinks with friends or relaxing with a good book. Increased usage can also take its toll on your lawn, which is why you must know how to get your lawn ready for the summer months and know how to reduce damage to your garden while still making the most out of the good weather.

It used to be that rust mostly stuck to warm, humid areas like the Southern US and the Pacific Coast states. But as the climate changes and previously frigid areas experience warmer winters, it’s taking hold in more areas.

In some coastal areas, it’s a chronic issue that growers will deal with year after year. In this guide, we’re going to do our best to help you keep this fungal issue out of your garden.

If it does come calling, we’ll also help you deal with it. Here’s what we’re going to go over to make that happen:

If you’re already dealing with rust, my condolences. You’re probably eager to figure out what you need to do, so let’s not wait one minute more:

What Is Rose Rust?

Rose rust is caused by several species of fungi in the Phragmidium genus.

The fungi in this genus only infect roses, so you don’t have to worry about the other plants in your garden coming down with this disease.

If you wanted to totally eradicate this disease, all you’d have to do is tear out all your roses and wait for a few years. The fungus would die because it doesn’t have a host.

Rose rust spreads through the air and on water, so it’s pretty hard to prevent it from moving about a garden, since we can’t control the wind and rain.

Temperatures need to be around 65 to 70°F for the spores to actually infect the plant.

More importantly for our purposes, there needs to be moisture present on the leaves for at least two hours for infection to take place.

Symptoms

This disease looks like the typical rust you’ll see on many other species. It manifests as round, blackish-brown spots with orange, tan, or yellow centers.

The leaf itself might turn yellow, as well. If you turn the leaf over, you’ll see orange fungal spores. They look kind of like orange powder clustered together.

Usually, foliage on the bottom of the plant succumbs first, and then the disease moves its way up the plant. In the fall, the leaves will develop black spores.

You might also see galls and lesions on the canes.

It rarely kills a plant, but the disease can cause complete defoliation. When a plant is defoliated, it can’t produce and store up energy, which means poor growth and definitely no flowers.

Prevention

Since the spores spread in the air and in water, your job is to try to reduce the chances that the spores will be able to travel around from plant to plant.

As I said, in some areas, just expect to be dealing with rust to some degree every year. But that doesn’t mean it needs to spread like wildfire or seriously damage your plants.

Prevention can go a long way.

Remember, this plant likes moderate temperatures and lots of moisture. So when spring and fall come around, it’s time to start being vigilant. Keep your plants well pruned so that they’ll dry out more quickly after a rain.

When it comes to watering, only water at the soil level, not on the leaves. You should also water in the morning, so the plant has plenty of time to dry out.

When the right conditions are present for spreading the disease, break out the preventative fungicides.

Finally, when working in the garden, be sure to clean your tools thoroughly between plants. You don’t want to prune one specimen that’s infected with rust and then take those pruners to an uninfected plant.

Treatment

You did your best, but rust got your roses anyway. Don’t feel bad, it happens to all of us.

The first thing you should do is prune off any symptomatic leaves. Then, pull out the fungicides.

Before you start spraying, know that you probably won’t ever get rid of the disease from the plant. Treatment will just reduce the symptoms and spread.

Use the same products as described above.

Unless you have a beloved plant that you don’t mind pampering year after year, seriously infected plants should be pulled and disposed of.

Resistant Cultivars

Since rust is part of our lives, now, planting resistant types can make your life much easier. Hybrids are more prone to rust, so avoid those.

Rugosas are nearly immune, so they’re perfect if you’re frequently struggling with this problem.

Boscobel

It took several double takes to convince myself that I wasn’t looking at a peony when I first saw ‘Boscobel.’

This David Austin has cupped flowers so packed with petals that it’s not clear how they all fit. Initially, the buds on this plant are red before opening and transitioning to coral pink.

Carefree Delight

If a rose was ever appropriately named, it’s ‘Carefree Delight.’

The continually blooming, single pink flowers on this shrub type will perform all season long with little input from you.

WATERING

A lawn and garden is a tricky business. Knowing when and how much is two-thirds of the job. When depends upon the soil and the rooting characteristics of the plant involved, how much will be governed by the amount of soil that is dried out.

An actual inspection of the soil in the root zone of the plant is the best way to tell when to irrigate. Shallow rooted plants suffer from drought first because they cannot exploit a very large volume of soil. Deep-rooted plants can withstand prolonged dry spells since they have a large reservoir of soil water to draw on.

Turf plants are probably the most shallow-rooted plants. Many of these plants never root more than 3 inches deep. Leafy vegetables probably come next with root systems from 6 to 10 inches deep. The bean family will use about a foot of soil, potatoes around 18 inches, sweet corn probably 2 feet, and such crops as tomatoes and asparagus at least 3 feet.

Remember these figures are the characteristic rooting depth of the plant. A soil restriction such as high water table, hardpan or poor aeration can decrease this depth of rooting there are a lot of tomato plants growing in this country with root systems less than a foot deep. Trees and woody plants. for instance, growing in their natural location generally have very extensive and deep root systems, but when transplanted they must frequently exist on smaller and unnatural root systems.

When the soil surrounding the root systems is pumped dry the plant will, of course, die. The trick is to let the soil dry down just so far and then completely recharge it. It is important not to water too often since this keeps the soil too wet and soggy. A soil that is kept too wet does not contain enough air and root troubles can get started quite easily.

You can tell the moisture status of a soil by examination. A soil that breaks easily, with shiny, glistening edges is near or above its water-holding capacity. A soil that will hold the cast of your hand after being tightly squeezed contains ample moisture. A soil that will not hold the cast is dry enough to be recharged. Soil more than 2 inches deep will never get dry enough to be dusty. Plants can die for want of water in soils with as much as 6 percent moisture because it is held so tightly that the roots cannot pry it loose.

The soil will dry out first at the surface; then the dryness will progress down thrqugh the root zone as the dry weather persists. When working with shallow-rooted crops, such as lawn grasses and leafy vegetables, examine the entire root zone. On deeper rooted crops a depth of 9 inches seems to be the most indicative. This is also true of trees and woody shrubs.

There are periods during the life of any plant when shortages of water seem to be more critical, generally at pollination and when setting fruit. Many plants can survive very prolonged dry spells if they have ample water during these periods.

Plants also use much more water during July and August than at any other time because the days are longer and temperatures higher. A twenty day drought in May or October is equivalent to only ten days of drought in July and August.

Add enough water to recharge the entire root system. Here again the best way to ascertain when this has been accomplished is to inspect the soil. The same standards hold as when examining it before watering. In case of water shortages one may recharge what is estimated to be two-thirds of the requirement and then pray for rain to finish the job.

Recharging the root zone of plants requires rather substantial amounts of water. Sandy soils hold 1/2 inch of water per foot of depth, loamy sands 1 inch per foot, and loams and clays about 2 inches. In other words, a loamy soil can go four times as long without water but requires four times as much to recharge it as a sandy soil. It will take 350 gallons of water to recharge 1,000 square feet of sandy soil and 1400 gallons for 1,000 square feet of a loam soil one foot deep.

How long does it take to apply this? The only way to tell is to measure the rate that the equipment being used will discharge the water and then plan on the approximate amount of time to cover the area involved. After the equipment has operated the calculated length of time examine the soil to see if results have been obtained.

Apply the water in any manner that will give an even distribution and at rates no faster than the soil will accept it. Soakers or flood types of irrigation prevent impact damage to the surface of bare soil such as in gardens; but a high percentage of the water enters the soil near the equipment and an even distribution is difficult to obtain. Remember, too, that there is no lateral movement of water in the soil-only vertical. Flood types of equipment also require very level land to acquire distribution. Flooding can be used when watering one tree or shrub.

Oscillating or rotating sprinklers are handy and fairly efficient. There may be some impact damage on bare soil but this can be prevented with a light mulch. There is no impact damage on lawns since the turf forms a protective carpet. Distribution with these systems leaves something to be desired, as do all irrigating systems. The spray is definitely affected by wind.

Spray types of hoses have about the same ‘advantages and disadvantages. They too may be affected by air currents, but they do form a very fine spray which causes little or no damage to the soil.

Both of these sprinkling methods are portable and can be placed in different positions each time they are used, which helps to some degree to compensate for uneven distribution. Stationary sprinkler heads do not have this advantage. They do offer a very nice spray, however, and are extremely convenient-in fact almost too convenient since there is a tendency to irrigate too often.

In areas where water shortages or restrictions are invoked you must decide what to water. Grass will run short of water first but bluegrass that turns brown from dry weather is only dormant and not dead. It looks bad but will recover with fall rains. Annual vegetable and flower gardens can be a complete loss without water but all in all they are relatively cheap crops and will be replaced the following spring. Trees and shrubs are expensive perennials and in some cases cannot be replaced. If they have good root systems they can withstand severe dry spells without injury. If they have poor root systems they will need help.

The following is probably the most logical watering preference in an area of water shortage: (1) trees and shrubs with poor root systems; (2) gardens; (3) lawns; (4) trees and shrubs with good root systems.

When irrigating, use ample water to recharge the soil, distribute the water as evenly as possible and be more conscientious during the critical periods of the various plants. Also, don’t hesitate to irrigate during the heat of the day, and be sure to consider the condition of the root systems.

W. MITCHELTREE

SOIL SPECIALIST, RUTGERS UNIVERSITY

The answer is yes if you’ve ever wondered whether deer are attracted to your sunflower garden. Unfortunately, deer love sunflowers and are known to eat them, which can cause damage to your flourishing plants. 

From the blooms to the leaves, seeds, and flower heads, deer find sunflowers to be a great source of nutrition, posing a challenge to protecting your garden from these persistent animals.

But don’t worry. There are easy and safe ways to keep deer away from your sunflowers without resorting to drastic measures. 

In this article, you’ll learn why deer love sunflowers, various deer deterrent methods, and techniques to help safeguard your sunflowers, ensuring your garden remains vibrant and deer-free.

Are Sunflowers Deer Resistant?

Yes, deer are known to eat sunflowers. They find sunflowers not only attractive but also a nutritious food source. 

The protien-rich pollen, soft petals and leaves of sunflowers are particularly appealing to them, as these parts of the plant are rich in protein and potassium.

Deer frequently consume various sunflower parts, such as the seeds, flower buds, and leaves, leaving only the stem untouched. 

Young sunflowers seem especially enticing to deer, and they are more likely to consume sunflowers when other food sources are scarce.

As your garden grows, you may notice that taller sunflower plants draw deer’s attention, who will eat the flowers and buds.

Understanding Deer Behavior

When it comes to deer and their feeding habits, it is essential to understand how they behave. Deer are browsing herbivores and will sample a variety of plants in their search for nourishment. 

They are attracted to sunflowers because they provide a great source of nutrition, including protein, fats, minerals, and phosphorus.

Deer have a scattered style of eating, which means they don’t follow a specific pattern when consuming plants. 

They will typically eat the leaves of sunflowers while leaving the stem intact. This can make it challenging to identify if deer are the culprits behind missing leaves in your garden.

To help you determine if deer are eating your sunflowers, look for some signs of their presence. 

For example, search for distinct deer footprints near your sunflower patch, especially after it has rained or the ground is muddy.

When you notice the sunflower leaves disappear while the stems are intact, then it’s also likely a deer attack. Identifying deer bites like ripping or tearing are also other signs.

Knowing the deer’s natural behavior is key to finding effective ways to protect your garden. 

By understanding their feeding habits and the signs they leave behind, you can take appropriate measures to deter them and safeguard your sunflowers.

Economic Estimates of Deer Damage

According to a report from Rutgers School of Environmental and Biological Sciences, it is estimated deer cause damages of:

• $100 million in agricultural crop damage
• $250 million to household landscape plantings

Easy Ways to Protect Your Garden Against Deer

Physical Barriers

Installing physical barriers is an effective way to keep deer away from your sunflower garden. 

A tall fence, preferably over 8′ feet, can prevent deer from jumping into your garden area. Regularly check your fence for signs of deer attacks and repair any deer damage promptly.

Natural Repellents

You can use natural repellents to discourage deer from eating your sunflowers. 

Sprinkle shredded, fragrant soap around your plants to keep deer at bay. Avoid using soaps with plant or coconut scents, as these can attract deer. 

The smell of garlic, pepper, chili flakes, and putrid eggs is an effective deer deterrent.

Additionally, consider using a deer-repellant spray to protect your sunflowers. These are widely available online and in stores.

Noise and Light Deterrents

Deer are generally skittish animals that dislike loud noises and sudden movements. You can use noise and light deterrents to scare them away from your sunflower garden. 

Motion-activated sprinklers are an excellent option. The sudden water spray and noise will startle deer and keep them out of your garden. 

Another option is to install motion-activated lights around your garden, which will scare off any deer trying to approach during the night.

Planting Deer-Resistant Garden Options

Creating a deer-resistant garden is an effective way of protecting your sunflowers from being consumed by deer. 

With a few strategic choices, you can minimize the chances of deer feasting on your plants. Here are some options to help you get started:

First, consider adding native and unpalatable species to your garden. These plants are less attractive to deer, making them less likely to wander into your garden searching for food. 

Certain plants, such as ferns, ornamental grasses, and herbs like sage, are less likely to be preferred by deer.

Another option for a deer-resistant garden is to plant perennials with strong fragrances, such as lavender or mint. These scented plants can be a natural deterrent for deer and help protect your garden. 

Additionally, plants with hairy, fuzzy, or prickly leaves are less appealing to deer.

Consider using the following deer-resistant plants in your garden:

• Ferns
• Ornamental grasses
• Sage
• Lavender
• Mint
• Lamb’s Ear

Moreover, toxic plants like foxgloves and poppies also naturally repel deer.

Incorporating these deer-resistant plants into your garden design can help create a barrier that discourages deer from entering and feeding on your sunflowers while maintaining an attractive and functional garden space. 

Remember that no plant is entirely deer-proof, but using these strategies can significantly reduce the likelihood of deer causing damage to your garden.

Monitoring and Adapting

Your garden’s success in deterring deer from eating sunflowers relies on continuous monitoring and adaptation to their behaviors. 

Observing how deer interact with your garden can help you determine if your current strategies are effective or if new methods should be implemented. 

Keep an eye on your plant’s overall health, and watch for any signs of damage caused by deer.

One way to monitor the presence of deer in your garden is to install wildlife cameras. 

These devices will provide valuable insights into deer activity, allowing you to see when they visit and how they react to your preventative measures. If you notice patterns in their behavior, adjust your tactics accordingly.

As seasons change, so do deer preferences and feeding habits. Periodically assess the effectiveness of your current deterrents, such as deer-repellent spray or motion-activated sprinklers, to ensure they remain efficient. 

Consider rotating different strategies to keep deer from getting too familiar with a single method.

Here are a few suggestions to enhance your monitoring and adaptation process:

• Record observations on deer activity and plant health in a garden journal.
• Regularly inspect your garden’s barriers and deterrents to ensure they’re intact and functional.
• Experiment with planting additional deer-resistant plants in your garden to further decrease the likelihood of deer targeting your sunflowers.

By diligently monitoring and adapting your deer-deterrent methods, you can protect your sunflowers and maintain a thriving, deer-resistant garden.

Deer and Sunflowers – FAQ

Deer enjoy eating sunflowers, and they often target the sunflower seeds, flower buds, and leaves. 

They find sunflowers a good source of protein, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and zinc, making them attractive to these animals.

What flowers will the deer absolutely not eat?

Though it is difficult to guarantee that deer will avoid certain flowers completely, some plants are less appealing to them. These include marigolds, lavender, daffodils, and Russian sage. 

However, deer preferences may vary by region, and they may still eat these plants if food is scarce.

Will deer eat sunflower heads?

Yes, deer will eat sunflower heads, and they are especially fond of the flowers and buds as the plants grow taller.

Will sunflowers grow back after deer eat them?

Sunflowers may regrow after being eaten by deer, though this depends on the damage’s extent and the growth stage.

The plant may produce another bloom if only the flower head is consumed. However, if the entire stalk is eaten, it’s less likely that the sunflower will recover.

What is the most deer-resistant plant?

Boxwood shrubs are known to be highly deer-resistant. In addition, these evergreen plants are low maintenance, drought-tolerant, and provide year-round interest in the garden.

What plants do deer hate the most?

Deer are known to dislike strongly-scented plants like garlic, chives, and mint. They also avoid plants with fuzzy or prickly foliage, such as lamb’s ear or holly.

Does Irish Spring soap repel deer?

Irish Spring soap is often used as a deer deterrent due to its strong scent. Hanging the soap in mesh bags or nylon stockings around your garden can help keep deer away.

Does Human Hair Repel Deer?

There is anecdotal evidence that suggests human hair can act as a deer repellent. Spreading hair clippings around your garden may discourage deer from browsing, but it is not a guaranteed method for deterring these animals.

Deer and Sunflowers Recap

Deer do indeed eat sunflowers as they are high in protein and provide a valuable food source for them. 

Aside from deer, other animals like chipmunks, house rats, squirrels, and rabbits would often attack your sunflowers.

Other top flower visitors include butterflies, ladybugs, beetles, bees, spiders, and other bugs and insects.

You can employ several easy and safe methods to protect your garden from these hungry visitors. 

Combining these approaches allows you to safeguard your sunflowers and enjoy their beauty without worrying about unwanted deer feasting on them.

First and foremost, consider physical barriers. Fences can be highly effective, but remember that deer are excellent jumpers, so ensure your fence is high enough to deter them. 

Another option is to use a variety of repellents, such as commercially available or homemade sprays, which can deter deer from eating your sunflowers. 

Planting deer-resistant border plants around your sunflower garden area can also reduce deer attraction.

Finally, consider utilizing noise and light deterrents to scare away deer seeking a meal in your garden. These methods are humane and can be quite effective in keeping these animals at bay. 

Remember to monitor and adapt as needed, as deer may become accustomed to some deterrents over time, requiring further adjustments.

By employing these strategies, you can ensure your sunflowers remain safe from hungry deer while also promoting a humane and eco-friendly approach to garden protection.