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  • How to Use Anise as a Spice | Gardener’s Path

    How to Use Anise as a Spice | Gardener’s Path

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    Humans have been cultivating and harvesting anise (Pimpinella anisum) for thousands of years, and for good reason.

    Aside from its medicinal value, this aromatic annual herb adds a dimensional licorice flavor to sweets, baked goods, savory dishes, and drinks. From traditional to modern, the culinary uses are endless.

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    I’m Scandinavian, so I’m a bit of a black licorice connoisseur. You could say it’s the flavor of my people. I’m particularly partial to Swedish aquavit, ice cold from the freezer, for sipping after dinner.

    If you love the taste of black licorice as much as I do, then you’ll like this article. Here’s what you’ll learn about anise:

    Now that you’ve got an idea of what I’ll be covering, let’s jump into it.

    What Is Anise?

    Anise is an annual herb in the Umbelliferae aka Apiaceae family. The plant’s one to two-foot-tall stalks sprout delicate, bright green leaves, topped with bountiful clusters of white, radially symmetrical flowers. These are called umbels.

    A close up horizontal image of the white flowers of Pimpinella anisum growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

    And inside the flowers, little gems are hiding. They’re actually fruits, but we call them seeds. In fact, they’re often referred to as aniseeds.

    Before I tell the magical tale of culinary uses for P. anisum, I need to clarify a few things.

    Because of its name, and its delightful licorice flavor, this herb is sometimes confused with other plants. These are the biggest offenders:

    1. Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) – This sneaky perpetrator is a member of the mint family.

    2. Star anise (Illicium verum) – Do not be fooled by this fruit. It’s from a little tree in the magnolia family.

    3. Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) – Although a close cousin to P. anisum, this plant is distinctly different.

    Now that we’re all on the same page with anise, let’s talk about its use in the culinary world.

    Check out our guide for the full story on anise and how to grow it.

    Culinary History

    This herb has a bewitching culinary past. Here’s why:

    Multiple parts of the plant can be used, both leaves and seeds, so it’s highly functional.

    It has various medicinal purposes, serving a range of ailments and offering a multitude of health benefits.

    A close up horizontal image of black licorice in a small pot.

    And P. anisum is known for its distinct flavor profile, making it a workhorse in the kitchen. This is the focus of this article.

    P. anisum is native to the Mediterranean, most likely originating in Egypt or the island of Crete. The “Papyrus Ebers,” an ancient Egyptian medical text written around 1550 BCE, describes the use of anise.

    Although the origin of the idea is unclear, this herb is noted by some to have spiritual and magical protective powers.

    A quick online search reveals numerous options to purchase anise seeds and oils specifically for enhancing psychic abilities and warding off evil spirits.

    Superstitions aside, throughout the years, the popularity of this ancient plant spread far and wide, soon making its way around the world.

    Today in North America, we’re keeping the tradition alive through timeless culinary concoctions and new ones with a modern twist.

    Where to Buy

    Anise is so popular that it’s grown commercially in many countries, so it’s easy to source.

    But if you live in Zones 4 to 9, you can grow it yourself. And the harvesting and storage process is rather simple. More on that later.

    When purchasing P. anisum seeds, be aware: growing the plants and cooking with the herb are two separate activities, so for success in either realm, make sure you’ve got the right kind of seeds. The main difference lies in the purpose for which the seeds are intended:

    Culinary seeds are dried, then packaged and labeled for safe consumption.

    Seeds for planting are specifically selected for their viability to germinate successfully into new healthy plants. These packages should include growing instructions.

    Seeds for growing can be purchased from online distributors like True Leaf Market.

    A close up square image of anise growing in the garden. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

    Anise Seeds for Sowing

    If you’d like to add anise to your gardens, but want to skip the sowing stage, check with your local nursery or greenhouse for seedlings.

    If you want to skip the growing and harvesting process altogether, you can find seeds that are ready to cook with and eat, online from Badia Spices via Amazon or at your local grocery store.

    Culinary Anise Seeds

    If you’re curious about tasting the leaves, you may be lucky enough to stumble upon freshly harvested stalks at a specialty market.

    Harvesting

    Want to try harvesting leaves and/or seeds from your own plants?

    Fear not! I’ll give you some straightforward, simple tips.

    Let’s Start with Leaves

    To reap the biggest reward, timing is everything. When deciding when to pick the leaves, you might feel a bit like Goldilocks at first.

    Tender, young leaves taste the best but take care, because young plants are sensitive.

    A close up horizontal image of Pimpinella anisum growing in the garden in full bloom.

    Wait about six to eight weeks after sowing, when plants are close to flowering to use the leaves. Once the plant directs more energy toward fruit production, the leaves can become bitter.

    Resist plucking or pulling! Carefully snip off the leaves with shears to avoid damaging the whole plant.

    To capture the most flavor and best texture of anise leaves, plan for immediate use after picking. Add leaves to dishes within the last few minutes when cooking.

    Dried leaves have a few applications, and they’re easy to prep. More on that later.

    Now Let’s Talk About Seeds

    Anise plants need about 100 days to reach maturity, so the best time to harvest seeds is late in the season.

    Timing can be tricky and will depend on your growing zone and current conditions, but will typically fall between August and September.

    A close up horizontal image of a dried umbel of a Pimpinella anisum plant pictured on a dark soft focus background.

    The fruits, or seeds, will begin to show themselves as the plant matures and the white flower petals fall away. The ripe, oval-shaped fruits are about three to five millimeters long and grayish-green in color.

    You can allow plants to dry while they’re still in the ground, but you risk losing seeds as they’ll likely drop into the soil, lost forever into the abyss.

    It’s best to cut the whole umbel, or flower head, off. Then place on a tray, a cookie sheet, or in a paper bag – something to catch seeds if they fall while drying.

    Leave umbels intact like this in a clean, dry, well-ventilated space for a week or so. Seeds will naturally fall off. If any stubborn seeds remain attached, gently shake or tap to coax them out.

    Preserving and Storing

    You probably aren’t planning to use all of your seeds right away, so you’ll want to preserve and store them to make them last.

    As with other seeds and herbs, there are different methods for success. This is my suggestion, and you can modify it to work best for you.

    Aniseed can be used whole or ground, depending on the recipe. Just keep in mind that ground anise loses its aroma and flavor much faster than whole seeds, so don’t grind until you’re ready to use them.

    Store the seeds in an airtight jar, tucked away in a dark spot. A shelf in your pantry or cupboard is perfect!

    Label your jar with the storage date. They’ll last for about a year like this, which is perfect timing to replace with next year’s harvest.

    If you want to try saving leaves for later, after clipping, lay them on a screen in a cool, dry, dark, and airy place. After about a week, the leaves should be dry.

    If they crumble easily when you pinch them, they’re ready to store. Place them in an airtight jar just like you would with seeds.

    Flavor Profile

    An organic compound called anethole gives anise its sweet, aromatic licorice flavor.

    P. anisum steals the show in pastries and other baked goods, and it enjoys the spotlight in various liqueurs like ouzo and sambuca.

    When used sparingly, it also pairs well with seafood and meat. In fact, it’s a common ingredient in Italian sausages and Indian curries.

    The warm flavor profile of anise matches brilliantly with other spices like clove and cinnamon. And sugar is its BFF, making it a delicious complement to fruit and chocolate.

    Cooking with Anise

    Add chopped fresh leaves to green salads and fruit salads, or use them as a tasty, colorful garnish.

    Use whole or chopped fresh leaves, or crushed, dried leaves in baked goods, pickles, curries, eggs, or soups.

    Seeds boost the sweetness in pastries, cakes, and cookies. Add them to sweet rolls and gourmet breads.

    A close up horizontal image of buns sprinkled with anise seeds.

    Whole anise seeds release a new layer of complexity onto a dish.

    When chewed, they add a burst of fresh licorice flavor. In fact, in some cultures, they’re used as a palate cleanser or breath freshener at the end of a meal.

    Crushed, toasted seeds enhance flavor when tossed with fresh fruit desserts and gourmet salads. Try lightly toasting seeds in a dry skillet to make their flavor pop!

    Hint: toasting also makes whole seeds easier to crush and grind.

    The oil from aniseed is extracted via a steam distilling process. Sometimes using liquid is preferred over the seed to avoid an undesirable appearance or texture in finished edible products. A few examples are ice cream, chewing gum, and liqueurs.

    Remember that oil is stronger than extract. Oil is typically reserved for commercial cooking.

    For home cooking, aniseed extract might be a better choice, but it can be difficult to find. You may come across it in your local specialty food market.

    Some people use essential oils for cooking. If you want to try it, please remember that it’s highly concentrated, so use with caution!

    Recipe Ideas

    Speaking of sweets, who can resist yummy biscotti with a steaming cup of strong coffee? Not me!

    A close up of freshly homemade anise biscotti in a metal pot.
    Photo by Nikki Cervone.

    Try this anise biscotti recipe from our sister site, Foodal.

    Meat rubs are a no-fuss way to experiment with this herb. Traditional blends like Egyptian dukkah and Indian garam masala incorporate anise to build layers of flavor.

    A close up horizontal image of a jar with fresh homemade dukkah set on a white surface.

    I like to keep things simple with my own no-fail recipe that I’ve been using for years. You can use this rub with your favorite protein – beef, pork, lamb, or fish. You choose!

    Tabitha’s Meat Rub:

    • 1 tablespoon anise seeds
    • 1-2 teaspoons black peppercorns (adjust to your own taste)
    • 1-2 teaspoons salt (adjust to your own taste)
    • 1 teaspoon demerara or turbinado sugar (optional)
    • 3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

    Coarsely grind the seeds and peppercorns in a coffee bean or spice grinder. Mix with salt, sugar, and oil. Brush on meat.

    If you don’t mind the mess, massage into the meat with your hands. Grill. Simple!

    Anise also makes a terrific substitute in recipes that call for fennel. Try it in this Mediterranean sheet pan dinner recipe from Foodal.

    Just swap in aniseed for the fennel seed. It’s quick and easy for a weeknight family meal.

    Use leaves to brew a soothing cup of hot tea. Place a spoonful of dried, crushed anise leaves into a cup or infuser, add hot water, and steep for a few minutes. Strain the leaves if desired and enjoy.

    An Ancient Culinary Powerhouse

    Now you know all my culinary secrets about anise, including where to buy, how to harvest and preserve, different ways to use the seeds and leaves, and some recipe ideas.

    A close up horizontal image of a pile of anise (Pimpinella anisum) seeds on a wooden surface.

    Please try my rub recipe and let me know your thoughts. I’d love to try your ideas too. Let’s swap recipes in the comments section below!

    To learn more about anise, take a look at these guides next:

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    Tabitha Caswell

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  • How to Grow Rocky Mountain Bee Plant | Gardener’s Path

    How to Grow Rocky Mountain Bee Plant | Gardener’s Path

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    Cleomella serrulata

    Rocky Mountain bee plant is a low maintenance and showy annual wildflower that’s native to North America, and it’s also a big hit with pollinators!

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    There are a multitude of reasons to grow this lovely wildflower in your garden or yard.

    Whatever your motivation for wanting to grow this showstopper of a summer annual, we’re here to guide you every step of the way.

    We’ll discuss everything you’ll need to know to grow and care for this species. We’ll also provide some tips on where to find seeds, and even dig into some of its fascinating ethnobotanical uses!

    Here’s what we’ll cover in this article:

    What Is Rocky Mountain Bee Plant?

    Rocky Mountain bee plant (Cleomella serrulata) is a showy annual wildflower that grows in arid and semi-arid areas and readily reseeds year after year.

    Its flower heads are covered with many individual blooms that are usually lavender colored, but are sometimes white or pink.

    A close up horizontal image of a pink Cleomella serrulata (rocky mountain bee plant) flower pictured on a soft focus background.
    C. serrulata flower.

    These inflorescences have a wispy look because of their long stamens, and bloom continuously for several weeks, with clusters of new flowers blooming from bottom to top.

    These wildflowers have an upright growth habit and can grow to be quite large, reaching six feet tall or more, depending on the growing conditions.

    They have a spread of one to three feet and are anchored by a long taproot.

    A close up horizontal image of the seed pods of a Rocky Mountain bee plant growing wild.
    C. serrulata leaves. Photo by Matt Lavin, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.

    The leaves of this species are arranged on stems in a spiral, and are palmate with three leaflets, while leaf margins are either smooth or finely serrated.

    When flowers fade, they give way to long seed pods that can reach between one and four inches long and contain several seeds.

    A close up horizontal image of the seed pods on a Cleomella serrulata plant pictured on a dark sky background.
    C. serrulata pods.

    The seeds of this species are round, oval, or horseshoe shaped, and dark brown or black in color.

    Cultivation and History

    Rocky Mountain bee plant is native to western and central parts of the US and Canada, and has naturalized further east as well.

    While it can be found growing in disturbed sites such as along ditch banks or roadsides, its natural habitats include dry meadows, prairies, woodlands, and even desert scrub.

    A horizontal image of a large swathe of rocky mountain bee plants (Cleomella serrulata) growign wild in a meadow pictured in bright sunshine on a blue sky background.

    If you’ve ever perused benches of plants in a garden nursery, you will likely be familiar with one of this species’ relatives – the annual bedding flower, cleome (Cleome hassleriana).

    Cleome looks very much like the subject of our article but is native to South America and has five to seven leaflets rather than the three of C. serrulata. Both of these species are members of the spiderflower family, or Cleomaceae.

    Within that family, Rocky Mountain bee plant is classified botanically in a genus called Cleomella. These species are also known as the “stinkweeds.”

    If you’re guessing there must be some reason for this nickname – you’re right. Some gardeners notice an unpleasant odor emanating from this species, which is also known as “skunkweed.”

    Before getting pinned into place in the genus Cleomella, this species had some other taxonomic names, which are now considered synonyms. These include Cleome serrulata, Peritoma serrulata, and Atalanta serrulata.

    Its much more expressive common names include “stinking clover,” “bee spider flower,” “bee spider plant,” “pink cleome,” “toothed spider flower,” and “Navajo spinach.”

    A close up horizontal image of purple rocky mountain bee plants (Cleomella serrulata) growing wild, pictured on a soft focus background.

    Does the term “Navajo spinach” make you wonder if this wildflower is edible? If so, the answer is yes!

    C. serrulata has been used as a food by many Native American peoples, including (but not limited to) the Apache, Hopi, Navajo, and Zuni.

    The leaves and flowers have been boiled and eaten as greens, as well as being dried and saved for winter for the same purpose. The seeds of this species have also been used for food, by drying and then grinding them into flour to make bread.

    Various parts of the wildflower have also been used medicinally, and to make paint and dye.

    The explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark collected the plant in 1804, and it was later classified botanically by Frederick Traugott Pursh in 1817.

    A close up vertical image of a bee foraging on a Rocky Mountain bee plant flower pictured on a soft focus background.
    C. serrulata. Photo by Rich Keen / USFWS Mountain-Prairie, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.

    Of course, humans aren’t the only ones to appreciate these wildflowers for their many uses.

    Their blooms attract many pollinators, and their seeds are enjoyed by various birds such as mourning doves (Zenaida macroura) and ring neck pheasants (Phasianus cochicus).

    For those interested in growing it at home, this wildflower is suited to USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8.

    Propagation

    As an annual, bee spider flower is propagated from seed. It can either be sown directly outdoors, or started in an indoor location such as a greenhouse and then transplanted out later.

    Whichever method you choose, you’ll need to either stratify seeds first, or sow them in the fall – they require a period of moist cold before they can germinate.

    Also, check your seed supply and use only dark-colored seeds, since pale ones tend to not be viable.

    A close up horizontal image of the seeds of a Cleomella serrulata plant pictured on a soft focus background.
    C. serrulata seeds. Photo by Matt Lavin, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.

    Fall sowing is a wise choice since these seeds require cold stratification, and also tend to germinate better with temperature swings.

    If you miss your chance to sow seeds in the fall, you can artificially stratify seeds for spring planting.

    To do this, mix seeds with moist sand and place in the refrigerator for two to six weeks. You might try taking this mixture out of the fridge during the day and returning it at night to replicate the oscillating temperatures that occur outdoors.

    However, it’s worth noting that some gardeners manage to germinate seeds kept in greenhouse conditions at a steady temperature of 68°F in just five to 14 days.

    Sowing Outdoors

    When sowing outdoors in spring, aim to sow seeds six to eight weeks before your last average frost date.

    First clear the planting area of weeds, then sow seeds 12 inches apart, barely covering the seeds with soil since they require light for germination. Keep the soil evenly moist.

    If sowing in fall, you shouldn’t expect to see your seeds sprouting until next spring.

    Read more about sowing seeds in the fall in anticipation of spring in our article!

    For spring sowing, germination may take up to 35 days.

    After germination, keep soil moist, but not soggy, until seedlings are four to six inches tall, at which point they can manage with less water.

    Expect blooms approximately 70 days after germination.

    Sowing Indoors

    When sowing indoors, seeds can be sown much as discussed in the previous section, only rather than sowing them directly in the ground, you can sow them in small nursery pots.

    After cold, moist stratification, these can be sown six to eight weeks before the last average frost date.

    Leaving an inch between the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot, fill small, three-inch nursery pots with sterile seed-starting soil, such as this peat-free option from Organic Mechanics.

    Organic Mechanics Seed Starting Blend 8-Quart Bag

    You can purchase Organic Mechanics Seed-Starting Blend in an eight-quart bag from the Organic Mechanics Store via Amazon.

    As for nursery pots, for this project it’s a good idea to use biodegradable ones such as CowPots in order to minimize damage to the specimens’ taproots during transplanting.

    A close up of a single biodegradable cowpot isolated on a white background.

    CowPots 3” Biodegradable Nursery Pots

    You’ll find three-inch biodegradable CowPots available for purchase in packs of 12, 400, or 1,176 from Arbico Organics.

    Sow one seed in each nursery pot, just barely covering it with growing medium.

    Keep the medium moist as seedlings germinate. To avoid the risk of waterlogging the soil, use a spray bottle to water. Soggy soil can lead to a loss of seedlings due to damping off.

    Germination may be quick in as little as five days, or slow at 35 days.

    Once seedlings germinate, you may wish to start watering with a houseplant watering can instead of a spray bottle.

    When the last average frost date approaches, start to harden the seedlings off in preparation for transplanting them outdoors.

    You can learn more about hardening off in our article on sowing annuals indoors.

    Once seedlings are hardened off, they will be ready to transplant.

    Transplanting

    For specimens that you have purchased or seedlings you have started yourself, they will be safe to transplant once the risk of frost is clear and you have hardened the plants off.

    Dig a hole the same depth as your seedling’s pot, and twice as wide.

    If it’s a plastic pot, remove the seedling by tilting the plant downward. If the plant is rootbound, you may need to squeeze the sides of the pot to release the roots.

    Once removed from the nursery pot, if the plant is rootbound, rub the flat of your palm against the roots to gently loosen them up. If any excess soil falls from the nursery pot, mix it with the soil removed from the hole.

    If it’s growing in a biodegradable pot, break the rim off so that it won’t stick up above the soil.

    Place the transplant into the hole, taking care not to bury the crown of the plant with soil. Backfill with the removed soil, and pat gently around the transplant.

    Water in the transplant, and provide irrigation if rainfall is absent until the plant is established, for at least a week or so.

    How to Grow

    When you’re ready to start growing Rocky Mountain bee plant, look for an open location since this wildflower is not highly competitive with its neighbors.

    A close up horizontal image of a Cleomella serrulata flower pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus blue sky background.

    Bee spider flower requires well-draining soil, but it can grow in a variety of unamended soil conditions – in soil that is moist to dry, with a pH 6.0 to 7.6, and in sandy, clay, gravel, or loamy soils.

    As for light, this plant can grow in full sun or part shade, though full sun is preferable.

    Once established, bee spider flower does not require a lot of water – in fact, it can survive in locations that receive only eight to 10 inches of water per year. But if more water is available, growth will be better.

    Growing Tips

    • Grow in full sun to part shade.
    • Provide irrigation if there’s no rain, until plants are established.
    • Choose an open location to prevent pressure from nearby plants.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    One of the benefits of growing native wildflowers is that, when grown in their native regions, they often perform beautifully without much work – and that’s the case with the subject of our article.

    Rocky Mountain bee plant doesn’t require fertilizer but it will benefit from mulching to conserve water.

    A horizontal image of Cleomella serrulata flowers growing in the garden.

    While plants are getting established, it’s important to keep the area weed-free.

    If this is a gardening chore you’re dreading, read our article to learn how you can spend less time weeding!

    While these plants don’t require pruning, if you’d like them to develop a bushier growth habit, the growing tip can be pruned back a few inches.

    To prevent self-seeding, collect seed pods from plants before they begin to split.

    On the other hand, if you’d like to save seeds, know that once the pods begin to split, the seeds are mature. Be sure to collect seeds from different specimens to ensure genetic diversity.

    Spread on a screen to continue drying. Once seeds are dry, remove from the pods, and store in a seed envelope in a cool, dry spot. Seeds will stay viable for five years or more when correctly stored.

    Expect plants to die back with the first frost.

    Where to Buy

    Bee spider flower may have a fairly wide native range, but it’s not a species you’ll often see in the nursery section of your local big box store.

    To purchase live plants, check with the local chapter of your state’s native plant society or inquire with local botanical gardens to ask about upcoming native plant sales.

    For seeds, you’ll be most likely to find these on offer from seed purveyors that carry or specialize in species native to North America.

    A close up square image of a single Cleomella serrulata flower pictured on a soft focus background.

    Rocky Mountain Bee Plant

    One place you can find Rocky Mountain bee plant available for purchase online is from Earthbeat Seeds – they have this native on offer in packs of fifty seeds.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    When it comes to growing native wildflowers, oftentimes pest and disease problems are of little concern, and luckily that is the case with C. serrulata!

    This species has a somewhat unpleasant odor, so deer and rabbits are not particularly attracted to this plant and won’t be likely to make it one of their favorite nibbling stations.

    Birds will enjoy eating the seeds, but even if you are hoping to save seeds for future sowings, there will be plenty to share.

    Rarely, gardeners report damage caused by flea beetles to the foliage of these wildflowers. In the unlikely event that this occurs in your crop of wildflowers, you’ll notice tiny holes in the leaves, most likely when plants are smaller.

    You can learn more about controlling flea beetles in our article.

    This species is a host to various species of larval moths, so don’t be surprised if some caterpillars make a meal of the foliage.

    Damage will likely be minimal and may even be unnoticeable. And remember that after all, putting up with this is all in the name of supporting one’s local wildlife!

    As for diseases, bee spider flowers are usually disease-free. However, when grown in monocultures, fungal diseases like leaf spot can be a problem.

    The best way to handle this disease is via prevention.

    Allow plants adequate spacing to ensure proper airflow, and water at the soil level instead of using sprinklers or holding a watering wand over the tops of plants. Keeping the plant’s foliage dry will make fungal diseases less likely.

    Best Uses

    Bee spider flowers have a myriad of uses in the home landscape.

    Since their water needs are low, they make excellent annuals to incorporate into a xeriscaped yard.

    They can also be grown as part of a cut flower garden, but be forewarned that the flowers can have a strong odor that some people don’t like.

    A horizontal image of a wildflower meadow with the light pink flowers of Cleomella serrulata.
    Bee spider flower and sunflowers. Photo by Rich Keen / USFWS Mountain-Prairie, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY 2.0.

    Bee spider flowers may be included as part of a native plant garden, especially in combination with blanket flower, sunflowers, prairie June grass, upright prairie coneflower, or sagebrush.

    From a design point of view, these tall wildflowers are an excellent option to layer behind shorter shrubs or flowers. But since they naturalize easily via self-sowing, be sure to grow them where you want to keep seeing them year after year.

    If one of your motivations for growing this species is to help your local wildlife, know that, just as its name suggests, this wildflower makes an excellent nectar source for all sorts of bees, including honeybees.

    A horizontal image of hummingbirds in flight and landing on Cleomella serrulata flowers in a prairie.
    Hummingbirds feeding on Rocky Mountain bee plant

    And if you’re also hoping to attract hummingbirds to your yard, this is a plant they’ll love!

    Of course, hummingbirds and bees aren’t the only fans of these flowers. This species is also excellent for attracting and providing food for butterflies, including monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus).

    But providing wildflowers for beneficial insects isn’t just about the nectar.

    C. serrulata is a larval host for the white-lined sphinx moth (Hyles lineata) and the checkered white moth (Pontia protodice). Yes, these caterpillars might nibble on your plants’ foliage, but you likely won’t even notice.

    In addition to attracting and helping local pollinators, bee spider flowers can also be used for restoring landscapes after fire, as well as for site restoration.

    In the western United States, Rocky Mountain bee plant has been shown to compete with nasty invasive weeds such as Halogeten glomeratus.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Annual flower Flower/Foliage Color: Pink, purple, white / green
    Native to: Western and central US and Canada Maintenance: Low
    Hardiness (USDA Zones): 3-8 Tolerance: Drought, poor soil, soils high in calcium carbonate such as lime and chalk
    Bloom Time: May-October Soil Type: Sand, clay, gravel
    Exposure: Full sun, part shade Soil pH: 6.0-7.6
    Time to Maturity: 70 days Soil Drainage: Well-draining
    Spacing: 12 inches Attracts: Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, moths, wasps
    Planting Depth: Barely cover with soil (seeds), soil level (transplants) Companion Planting: Blanket flower, coneflower, Idaho fescue, plains coreopsis, prairie June grass, sage brush, showy milkweed, sunflowers
    Height: 4-79 inches Uses: Honey bee forage, hummingbird gardens, insectaries, naturalizing, pollinator gardens, site restoration, xeriscaping
    Spread: 12-36 inches Family: Cleomaceae
    Water Needs: Low Genus: Cleomella
    Common Pests and Disease: Flea beetles; leaf spot Species: Serrulata

    Let Your Garden Bee the Change

    You should now feel ready to grow these wildflowers and enjoy their benefits: pollinators galore, showy and low maintenance flowers, and many more seasons of the same as these reseed.

    A close up horizontal image of the pink and purple flowers of Cleomella serrulata, known as the rocky mountain bee plant, pictured on a soft focus background.

    What’s your motivation for growing Rocky Mountain bee plant? Do you have any special connection with these flowers you’d like to share with our readers?

    Please feel free to make use of the comments section for questions, stories, or fond memories – you’ll find it below!

    Are you ready to welcome bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to your yard? Here are more articles to help you with that noble project:

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    Kristina Hicks-Hamblin

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  • Perfect Plant Pairings & Companion Planting – Farmside Landscape & Design

    Perfect Plant Pairings & Companion Planting – Farmside Landscape & Design

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    Successful plant pairing includes grouping plants that offer varied texture, color, form and size so the final result is both eye-catching and balanced. Pattern repetition – like repeating colors and textures in the garden – help create a sense of visual cohesion.

     

    Determining which plants to pair, should start with the elements of the site location – soil type, drainage, amount of sun, orientation – from there you can start to build a list of plant possibilities that share similar environmental requirements.

     

    For extra help in pairing, check out Proven Winners’ fun, interactive Proven Plant Pairings plant finder here.

     

    You can pair your plants by color, shape, texture – whatever appeals to you most. Here are some things to keep in mind when selecting plant pairings:

     

    • Aim for balance. Too much of a single element can overpower the look of a garden. The bolder the shape or color of a plant, the less of it you need for your garden design.
    • Variegated plants pair well with any solid-colored foliage. Try to pick up one of the colors in the variegated leaf in your solid option.
    • Lacy, delicate foliage is beautifully showcased against broad, wide foliage leafed plants.
    • Consider pairing spikey, rigid plants with soft textured, rounded-form plants.
    • Dark-hued foliage provides a dramatic backdrop for lighter foliaged plants as well as for brilliantly hued blooms. Bold colors create a natural focal point.
    • Consider pairing sturdy, rigid plant forms with vines or flowers that can benefit from their structured support.
    • For plant pairing ideas based on color, check out our blog series on garden schemes based on the color wheel. (link)

     

    Unperfect Plant Pairings

    Invasive species such as Purple Loosestrife, Japanese Barberry and Canada Thistle have no place in the garden, due to their ability to overtake other plants and resources. Additionally, there are plants like Black Walnut that exude toxins (hydrojuglone) that can damage or kill off neighboring plants. Instead, opt for plants that invite beneficial life such as bees, butterflies, birds, etc. and don’t have requirements that exhaust natural resources or compete or harm other plants in the garden.

     

    Perfect Plant Pairings In the Vegetable Garden

    Interspersing flowers in your vegetable garden is a great way to help crops from being overwhelmed by pests and disease while inviting pollinators for better plant yields. Some plants to consider:

     

    • Petunias help ward off squash bugs
    • Marigolds repel cabbage worms
    • Chives and other alliums help deter deer
    • Herbs like lavender and lemon thyme help keep mosquitoes away

     

    Companion Planting Chart
    Here are more combinations found to be beneficial from the North Dakota State University Agriculture Extension:

    Plant Plant Companions Plant Allies Plant Enemies
    Asparagus Basil, parsley, tomato Pot marigold deters beetles.
    Beans Beet (to bush beans only), cabbage family, carrot, celery, chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, pea, potatoes, radish, strawberry. Marigold deters Mexican bean beetles. Nasturtium and rosemary deter bean beetles. Summer savory deters bean beetles, improves growth and flavor. Garlic, onion and shallot stunt the growth of beans.
    Beets Bush beans, cabbage family, lettuce, onion. Garlic improves growth and flavor. Pole beans and beets stunt each other’s growth.
    Carrots Bean, lettuce, onion, pea, pepper, radish, tomato. Chives improve growth and flavor. Rosemary and sage deter carrot fly. Dill retards growth.
    Celery Bean, cabbage family and tomato. Chives and garlic deter aphids. Nasturtium deters bugs and aphids.
    Chard Bean, cabbage family and onion
    Corn Bean, cucumber, melon, parsley, pea, potato, pumpkin, squash. Odorless marigold and white geranium deter Japanese beetles. Pigweed raises nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them. Tomatoes and corn are attacked by the same worm.
    Cucumber Bean, cabbage family, corn, pea, radish, tomato Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters aphids, beetles and bugs, improves growth and flavor. Oregano deters pests in general. Tansy deters ants, beetles, bugs, flying insects. Sage is generally injurious to cucumber.
    Eggplant Bean, pepper. Marigold deters nematodes.
    Lettuce Beet, cabbage family, carrot, onion, radish, strawberry. Chives and garlic deter aphids.
    Melons Corn, pumpkin, radish, squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
    Onions Beet, cabbage family, carrot, chard, lettuce, pepper, strawberry, tomato. Chamomile and summer savory improve growth and flavor. Pigweed raises nutrients from subsoil and makes them available to the onions. Sow thistle improves growth and health. Onions stunt bean, pea.
    Parsley Asparagus, corn, tomato
    Peas Bean, carrot, corn, cucumber, radish, turnip. Chives deter aphids. Mint improves health and flavor. Garlic and onion stunt the growth of peas.
    Peppers Carrot, eggplant, onion and tomato
    Potatoes Beans, cabbage family, corn, eggplant, pea. Horseradish, planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides general protection. Marigold deters beetles. Tomatoes and potatoes are attacked by the same blight.
    Pumpkins Corn, melon, squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
    Radishes Bean, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, melon, pea. Chervil and nasturtium improve growth and flavor. Hyssop
    Spinach Cabbage family, strawberry
    Squash Corn, melon, pumpkin. Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.
    Strawberry Bean, lettuce, onion, spinach, thyme. Cabbage. Borage strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme, as a border, deters worms.
    Tomatoes Asparagus, carrot, celery, cucumber, onion, parsley, pepper. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health. Once mature, it stunts tomato growth. Marigold deters nematodes. Pot marigold deters tomato worm and general garden pests. Corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Mature dill retards tomato growth. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Potatoes and tomatoes are attacked by the same blight.
    Turnips Pea
    Cabbage Family (Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Chinese Cabbage, Kale, and Kohlrabi) Beet, celery, chard, cucumber, lettuce, onion, potato, spinach. Chamomile and garlic improve growth and flavor. Catnip, hyssop, rosemary and sage deter cabbage moth. Dill improves growth and health. Mint deters cabbage moth and ants, improves health and flavor. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles, aphids. Southernwood deters cabbage moth, improves growth and flavor. Tansy deters cabbageworm and cutworm. Thyme deters cabbageworm. Kohlrabi and tomato stunt each other’s growth.

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    The post Perfect Plant Pairings & Companion Planting appeared first on Farmside Landscape & Design.

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  • Episode 136: Plants with Presence – FineGardening

    Episode 136: Plants with Presence – FineGardening

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    We all love plants that have some personality. These are the ones that stand out and make us take notice, and when we see them at a nursery, public garden, or in a fellow gardener’s collection, they go straight onto the wish list or into the shopping cart. Which unforgettable treasures will jump to mind as you listen to Danielle, Carol, and their guest musing about some of their favorite plants with presence?

    Expert guest: Karl Gercens is the East Conservatory Manager at Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania.

    Danielle’s Plants

    Rose Sensation™ false hydrangea vine

    Rose Sensation™ false hydrangea vine (Schizophragma hydrangeoides ‘Minsens’, Zones 5-9)

    Double Take Scarlet ™ flowering quince
    Double Take Scarlet ™ flowering quince

    Double Take Scarlet ™flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Scarlet Storm’, Zones 5-9)

     'Wu-La-La' hosta
    ‘Wu-La-La’ hosta

    ‘Wu-La-La’ hosta (Hosta ‘Wu-La-La’, Zones 3-9)

    ‘Little Honey’ oakleaf hydrangea (credit: millettephotomedia.com)
    ‘Little Honey’ oakleaf hydrangea (credit: millettephotomedia.com)

    ‘Little Honey’ oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Little Honey’, Zones 4b-9)

     

    Carol’s Plants

    ‘Storm Cloud’ bluestar
    ‘Storm Cloud’ bluestar

    ‘Storm Cloud’ bluestar (Amsonia tabernaemontana ‘Storm Cloud’, Zones 4-9)

    Kodiak® Orange bush honeysuckle, photo courtesy of Proven Winners Color Choice
    Kodiak® Orange bush honeysuckle, photo courtesy of Proven Winners Color Choice

    Kodiak® Orange bush honeysuckle (Diervilla x ‘G2X88544’, Zones 4-7)

    Marine heliotrope
    Marine heliotrope

    Marine heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens, Zones 10-11)

    ‘Straw’ Colorado spruce
    ‘Straw’ Colorado spruce

    ‘Straw’ Colorado spruce (Picea pungens ‘Straw’, Zones 4-8)

     

    Expert’s Plants

    Titan arum, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens
    Titan arum, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens

    Titan arum (Amorphophallus titanium, Zones 11-12)

    Tower of jewels, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens
    Tower of jewels, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens

    Tower of jewels (Echium wildpretii, Zones 9-10)

    Madeira Island geranium, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens
    Madeira Island geranium, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens

    Madeira Island geranium (Geranium maderense, Zones 9-11)

    Wood’s cycad, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens
    Wood’s cycad, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens

    Wood’s cycad (Encephalartos woodii, Zones 10-11)

    Mule’s foot fern, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens
    Mule’s foot fern, photo courtesy of Karl Gercens

    Mule’s foot fern (Angiopteris evecta, Zones 10-11)

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  • Growing Hens and Chicks Plants in Gardens and Containers

    Growing Hens and Chicks Plants in Gardens and Containers

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    Growing Hens and Chicks Plants in Gardens and Containers













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    Tara Nolan

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  • Top 22 Fragrant Flowers For a Heavenly Smelling Garden

    Top 22 Fragrant Flowers For a Heavenly Smelling Garden

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    The garden experience can reach all of the senses, but my favourite is the aroma. Among hosts of other pleasant garden scents, some of the first to come to mind are those of flowers. The thing is, not all flowers offer a scent. If you are gardening just for the smell of it, here are my top 22 wonderfully fragrant flowers.

    I love to watch other plant lovers interact with plants. They see a beautiful flower and pick up their step to get a closer look. They touch the leaves, possibly the petals, and then lean in for a sniff.

    We enjoy the garden with all of our senses.

    While we tend to lead with our eyes, we gather even more information about plants through touch, taste, sounds, and scent. That aroma that we love is there for biological reasons: to attract pollinators.

    Thankfully we get a chance to enjoy their sweet sweet smell too. Especially these 22 heavenly-scented garden flowers.

    In this article, we will cover:

    Expert Tips for Growing Fragrant Flowers

    • Avoid grouping many fragrant flowers together, or you risk a multitude of sneezing coming your way.
    • Consider applying succession planting practices to your flowers. AKA stagger the bloom times so you have different flowers that smell good to last you the entire season.
    • Some fragrant flowers are more than just a beauty and a fragrance. Consider plants with other beneficial and herbal uses, like lavender and rose.
    • Many of these fragrant flowers are also wonderful cut flowers. Bring some inside the home to also perfume the house.
    Pale Pink Double Peony
    Pale Pink Double Peony

    Fragrant Flowers to Add to Your Garden

    Just by adding a few of these flowers that smell good, you’ll delight yet another of your senses out in the garden.

    1. Heliotrope (Heliotropium)

    Annual

    purple heliotrope in bloom
    Once old-fashioned, the plant is rising again in popularity.

    This purple beauty has an almond scent. Some even say it smells like cherry pie!

    Heliotrope is an annual that prefers full sun but will tolerate afternoon shade if grown in an area with hot summers. They bloom from summer until fall and add a beautiful pop of colour and fragrance mixed in an annual garden.

    2. Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritime)

    Annual

    Sweet Alyssum, one of the most fragrant flowers
    Sweet alyssum is a great filler flower for baskets and beds.

    These delicate tiny flowers have a subtle, sweet scent with a hint of honey.

    They are cheery plants and really do not need much to remain happy. Give them well-drained soil and a bright location, and they will reward you with a carpet of natural perfume all summer long.

    3. Stock (MatthioLa Incana)

    Zone 7-10

    Pink stock in bloom are some of the most fragrant flowers
    There are about 50 species in the Matthiola genus.

    They might be a grocery store bouquet staple, but these hardy flowers have a pleasant, spicy, clove-like scent.

    They hold up well as cut flowers which is why they are favourites of florists. They’re available in white, pink, purple, yellow and red.

    You can grow this annual from seed in the spring to summer in a well-drained, sunny spot in your garden. They will give you plenty of continuous blooms all season long.

    4. Scented Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens)

    Annual

    Fragrant Flowers List Scented Geranium
    The scented geranium leaves can mimic scents like chocolate, pineapple, and rose.

    Although these beauties are known for their attractive blooms, the leaves of scented geranium give them their famous aroma.

    The plants have glands at the base of their leaf hairs where the scent is formed. When you crush the leaves, the oil is released, and so is the scent.

    Some say the scent (depending on the variety) smells like apricot, apple, lemon, mint, or strawberry. Scented Geranium like full sun to partial shade and bloom from late spring into summer.

    5. Lavender (Lavandula spp.)

    Zones 5-9

    fragrant flower - lavender
    Lavender is one of my favourites as I use it for many of my beauty recipes for its aromatherapy.

    Thanks to its floral, mild scent, lavender is perhaps the most popular herb grown for its fragrant flowers. In fact, lavender is by far one of the most used scents in essential oils for its relaxing and calming properties.

    Lavender’s tall purple blooms and heavenly scent make it perfect for planting along walkways or in perennial gardens. They love full sun and well-drained soil. In humid areas with poor soil drainage, plant lavender in containers.

    Learn more about how to grow lavender and how to properly harvest it for the best scent possible.

    6. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)

    Zone 2-9

    close up of a fragrant flower, Lily of the Valley
    For such a small flower, lily of the valley has a strong scent.

    For many, these dainty bell flowers are the quintessential scent of spring. The spring bulb has a clean, sweet smell that is as delicate as its flowers.

    Plant lily of the valley in late fall in partial shade and moist soil. The bulbs naturalize an area pretty easily and can be invasive, so consider that before you put them in the ground. Alternatively, they grow beautifully in containers if they receive the right light and adequate moisture.

    Also, please note that lily of the valley is poisonous and should be kept out of gardens with children and pets. 

    7. Hyacinth (Hyacinthus)

    Zone 3-9

    Skip the tulips and plant hyacinths to give you beauty and fragrance. These bulbs have densely packed flowers in deep shades of blue, violet, red, white, orange, pink, or yellow. Each colour will have its own light floral scent.

    Plant the bulbs in autumn in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in the sun or partial shade under a window or near a walkway. In the spring, you will be rewarded with lovely blooms with an intoxicating scent in the warm spring breeze.

    8. Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides)

    Zone 8-11

    close up of Gardenia in bloom with water droplets
    Since they’re cold-sensitive, gardenias are considered a tender evergreen.

    This lovely shrub is a southern favourite. I am aware that not all areas can grow these beauties outdoors since they are cold-sensitive and may not survive severe winters. However, gardenias can be grown in containers and brought indoors in winter.

    Are they worth all the fuss? If you have never smelled one, I assure you that you will fall in love with its warm, spicy scent. And they are sure pretty!

    Plant gardenias in partial shade if you live in zones 7-11. They also prefer moist but well-drained acidic soil with plenty of organic matter.

    9. Rose (Rosa spp.)

    Zone 3-11

    Pink roses blooming
    Roses are actually an amazing plant for skincare.

    You can not have a fragrant garden without a rose!

    There is a common misconception that the scent has been “bred out” of roses. While it’s true that many roses were bred for form and colour alone, there has been a resurgence in interest in scented rose varieties that have led to better availability in most garden centers.

    The smells can be anise-like, musky, or fruity, depending on the variety. Roses come in many colours, growth habits, and tolerance to climate; there’s one to fit in every garden.

    In Zone 3, look for “own-root roses” that die all the way back to the root in winter and regrow from their own rootstock. In Zones 10 and 11, look for varieties that don’t need a winter chill to bloom the following year.

    These fragrant flowers love the sun (at least 6 hours a day) and rich, well-drained soil.

    Learn how to grow roses here.

    10. Lilac (Syringa spp.)

    Zone 3-9

    Sweet smelling lilacs are popular shrubs in gardens due to their heavenly aroma and growing ease.

    These fragrant flowers come in several colours, but purple and white are the most popular. Lilacs are hardy shrubs, easy to grow, and generally low maintenance. The fragrant flowers make great cut flowers and attract butterflies.

    Plant lilacs in full sun in fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil. You can see a step by step guide to growing lilacs here.

    11. Peony (Paeonia lactiflora)

    Zone 2-8

    One of the most romantic flowers and a florist’s favourite, garden peonies have a smell that ranges from citrus to rosy, depending on which peony you smell. Likewise, some peonies are mild, while some are strongly scented!

    They bloom once in the spring, making a large showstopping display. Once established, they can become quite prolific flowers.

    The flowers come in many shades, including coral, pink, red, white, and yellow. They also come in various flower types, including single, double, anemone, and more, so there’s a peony out there for everyone.

    12. Mayday Tree (Prunus padus)

    Zone 2-9

    Besides annuals and shrubs, you can also plant fragrant trees. The Mayday tree is a small tree that blooms early in the spring. When you pass by, you’ll be overcome by the fragrance of the white flowers, offering a strong spice.

    These flowers turn into small black berries that, unfortunately, are inedible to humans. But the birds love them. Between the birds and the bees pollinating in the spring, it’s an ideal way to support your pollinators and wildlife.

    13. Lilies (Lilium)

    Zone 4-9

    With the many types of lilies out there, there is a lily in every colour and shade to brighten your garden. Lilies are a wonderful cut flower that, once bloomed, will quickly overtake any other flowers in the bouquet in smell.

    Do note that lilies are quite toxic to cats, so don’t plant them if you have a furry friend who also enjoys your garden.

    14. Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus)

    Annual

    The name tells it all for the sweet pea. The prettiest legume around, the sweet pea comes in vibrant jewel tones and pretty pastel colours.

    Sweet peas are easy to grow from seed. They require cold, so they’re best to plant in the fall for places with a moderate winter and at the beginning of spring for those with a cold winter.

    They’ll climb up a fence or trellis and wash over you with their sweet scent every time you go to garden in the area.

    15. Freesia (Freesia spp.)

    Annual

    freesia flower
    Freesia. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

    Freesias have quite a famous scent, known as one of the quintessential fragrant flowers often found in perfumes and other beauty products. The scent is refreshing and bright, with some citrus notes.

    Freesias grow from a corm, coming in clusters. They bloom from June to September and come in all kinds of colours.

    16. Jasmine (Jasminum spp.)

    Zone 6-10

    Winter jasmine Jasminum nudiflorum
    Winter jasmine Jasminum nudiflorum

    You can’t have a list of flowers that smell good without including Jasmine. The smell of Jasmine is often described as rich, sweet, and a hint sensual due to its hint of muskiness. The blend of femininity and musk makes it a unique combination, that’s for sure!

    There are many different kinds of jasmine, and all will have a distinct and strong scent. Some are shrubs, while most are semi-tropical vines.  Some choose to grow jasmine as houseplants as well.

    17. Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius)

    Zone 4-8

    Many people love growing mock oranges as ornamental shrubs, especially in climates that can’t grow actual oranges. The white blossoms look just like orange blossoms and have a scent similar to jasmine.

    Mock oranges bloom in late spring and early summer, where the large four-petaled flowers attract butterflies and other pollinators. The shrub can be planted alone or as a hedge for privacy.

    18. Beach Spider Lily (Hymenocallis littoralis)

    Zone 8-10

    Hymenocallis flower
    Beach spider lily. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

    It’s no wonder where spider lilies get their name. While not a true lily, the flower also comes from a bulb. They bloom from mid-June to July and produce very fragrant white or yellow flowers with spidery tendrils. Meanwhile, their leaves appear similar to amaryllis as they’re in the same family.

    19. Plumeria (Plumeria)

    Zone 10-12

    Plumeria always reminds me of Hawaii, as they’re the flower typically used to make leis. Imagine my surprise to learn that the small shrub actually is not native!

    Just walking past a plumeria will fill your nose with the strong, sweet smell of the flower. If you’re lucky enough to live in a semi-tropical climate, I encourage you to grow plumeria because I can’t!

    Plumeria flowers consist of five soft and rounded petals. The petals come in shades of white, yellow, and pink, often blending to a yellowy-orange center.

    20. Honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.)

    Zone 5-9

    honeysuckle
    Honeysuckle lives for an average of 20 years in the garden.

    One of the best memories from my childhood is sipping on the sweet nectar from a honeysuckle flower. It blooms in the spring, and oftentimes, you smell it before you spot it. The strong scent is a combination of honey and citrus.

    The vine blooms from late spring to early summer, and it’s a hummingbird favourite in my area. It will be deciduous in colder zones but can be evergreen in warmer regions.

    It can take up to three years for your plant to produce flowers after planting. And once the flowers have finished blooming, the plant produces red berries in its place.

    21. Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa)

    Zone 8-10

    While the small white flowers may look similar to others, the fragrant flower is unmatched. The scent comes in similar to a gardenia, with floral, sweet, and a hint of spice behind the floral notes.

    Because of its scent, the plant has become a popular ingredient in the perfume industry, though a bottle of essential oil from the tuberose can set you back a few hundred dollars.

    Native to Mexico and Central America, tuberose like tropical climates. But you can grow them as summer annuals in colder climates.

    22. Magnolia (Magnolia spp.)

    Zones vary based on the magnolia variety.

    Little Gem Magnolia from Monrovia
    Little Gem Magnolia Courtesy of Monrovia

    Magnolia trees are remarkable, blooming even before the leaves have emerged. I’m lucky enough to live where we have many different magnolia trees blooming in early spring.

    Some magnolias will only have a mild scent, so make sure you’re choosing the right type of magnolia tree for flowers that smell good. Anise magnolia (Magnolia salicifolia) has a distinct anise lemon scent and white flowers. Southern magnolia trees (Magnolia grandiflora) have very large white flowers with a floral and citrusy scent.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Fragrant Flowers

    What is the most fragrant flower?

    While it’s hard to crown the most fragrant flower, many on this list would definitely compete for the crown. The flowers most often used in perfumes and to scent other products would likely be considered as some of the top-scented flowers, including freesia, jasmine, rose, tuberose, lavender, and gardenia.

    What flower makes your home smell good?

    You want to look for cutting flowers, which are the kinds of plants that have a long vase life once you cut them from the garden. Some great options include:
    – lilac
    – rose
    – lilies
    – hyacinth
    – lavender
    – tuberose
    – freesia

    Enjoy your fragrant garden!

    More Posts About Plants

    10 Fragrant Flowers for a Heavenly Smelling Garden

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Choosing the right doors: a guide to safety, style and functionality – Growing Family

    Choosing the right doors: a guide to safety, style and functionality – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    If you’re buying doors for your family home, the overall look isn’t the only thing you need to consider. Yes, style is important, but safety and functionality are equally crucial factors to think about.

    In this article, we’ll cover each of these issues in more detail to help you make an informed decision and choose the right doors that are fit for purpose.

    Safety

    Family safety is always a major consideration, and the doors in your home are no exception. 

    To protect the safety and security of your family and belongings, look for doors with substantial construction, reinforced frames, and strong locks. Steel doors, fibreglass doors, and doors with many locking points are all examples of doors with excellent safety features.

    Style

    Of course, safety does not have to be sacrificed for fashion, especially with perfectly designed composite front doors. There are numerous door styles that can complement the architecture and décor of your home while also providing outstanding safety features. Classic timber doors, modern glass doors, and rustic barn-style doors are all examples of styles that can easily incorporate good security.

    modern front door and hallway

    Functionality

    When selecting the right doors for your family home, functionality is also important.

    Doors that are simple to use, reduce noise, and deliver on energy efficiency can all make a significant impact in the overall functionality of your home. Sliding doors, French doors, and pocket doors are especially useful for families, since they allow easy access to your outdoor space without impacting on the usable space inside.

    Maintenance

    Another factor to consider when choosing doors for a family home is maintenance. Various types of doors may necessitate varying degrees of upkeep, so it’s critical to select a door that fits your lifestyle. Low-maintenance door materials such as fibreglass or steel may be a better choice for busy families.

    yellow painted front door

    Which doors are family-friendly?

    Here are some examples of popular family-friendly doors:

    • Solid wood doors are strong and long lasting, making them excellent for families with children and high traffic areas. They also provide superior sound insulation, which can aid in noise reduction between rooms.
    • French doors can create an open and airy vibe in your house. They add elegance and beauty to a property, while also being practical and maximising natural light.
    • Sliding doors are a terrific option for families. They are simple to use and can save room in smaller houses. They also offer an unimpeded view of the outdoors, which is ideal for families with children who enjoy playing outside.
    • Dutch doors can be a fun and useful solution. They are separated horizontally, so you can open the top portion while keeping the bottom closed, which is excellent for keeping children and dogs inside or outdoors.

    Choosing the right doors for your family means balancing safety, style, usefulness, and maintenance. By taking these things into account, you can make an informed decision that will give you and your loved ones the best possible living experience.

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    Catherine

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  • Slow Mow Summer: 7 Tips for a More Sustainable Lawn

    Slow Mow Summer: 7 Tips for a More Sustainable Lawn

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    “Most folks go into the big box store and just pick seed based on the amount of sunlight that they have,” says Wolfin, but Kentucky Bluegrass, which is the standard turf grass, requires a lot of management and inputs. “There are grass species out there that require far less maintenance, for a much more conservation friendly lawn,” says Wolfin.

    For the northern third of the U.S. and Canada, Wolfin points to fescue grass species, which require less fertilizer and have deep root systems that make it drought tolerant. To maximize conservation choose fine fescue grasses, which Wolfin says have 1/6 the fertilizer requirement of traditional turf grass and need to be watered only about once every 3 to 4 weeks; they’re also incredibly slow-growing, so you might need to mow only twice per year. You can simply seed them into the existing lawn like you would any other grass and over a few years, the fine fescue will begin to take over.

    In The Climate Conscious Gardener, the Brooklyn Botanic Garden says to avoid fescues and Bermuda grass in the dry western states and instead suggests UC Verde (Buchloe dactyloides), a buffalograss cultivar, and in very dry areas, they recommend blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis).

    6. Overseed with wildflowers.

    Above: Bees love white clover. Photograph courtesy of University of Minnesota Extension.

    To go one step further, you can intentionally seed low-growing wildflowers right into your lawn. Wolfin says you want to make sure you choose flowers that are known high-quality forage. Wolfin and his team at Twin City Seeds settled on Dutch white clover, creeping thyme, and self-heal for their “bee lawn” mix because they are high-quality bee food that isn’t cost prohibitive. While Dutch white clover isn’t native, Wolfin says researchers at the University of Minnesota observed “a ton of bee diversity” on white clover—and it costs a fraction of what a native plant like pussy toes would (but if you have the budget, pussy toes are a great way to diversify your lawn!).

    7. Rewild a section of lawn.

    Above: Native plants and wildflowers make up this “wild lawn” in Oregon. Photograph by Erin Boyle, from DIY: Wild Lawn.

    The Wild Seed Project encourages “diversifying your lawn” and published a book on Northeastern native ground covers that is a great resource for lawn alternatives. Writing in the introduction, executive director Andrews Berry encourages replacing unused expanses of grass with low-growing natives, as she did in her own lawn. “Wild strawberries now provide tasty treats for my family when not gobbled up by our backyard chickens. Bumblebees adore the plantings of partridge pea. Stans of ferns provide cover for chipmunks and squirrels. Rewilding with ground covers has quickly transformed our once barren lawn into a vital habitat.” Wild strawberries and less yard work? Sign us up!

    See also:

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  • Alice’s Ontario Garden – FineGardening

    Alice’s Ontario Garden – FineGardening

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    We’re in Sweaburg, Ontario, visiting with Alice Fleurkens. We’ve been to her garden before (Alice’s Front Garden in Canada) so check out the earlier posts if you want to see more.

    This is the first year in about six years that I have been able to do more gardening again. It is so enjoyable to see the garden grow.

    various shrubs in the garden bedThese shrubs now require a drastic pruning every year. And the Siberian iris (Iris siberica, Zones 4–8) has found itself a spot where I don’t really want it, so later it will have to go.

    close up of deep red coral bellsOh, how I love coral bells (Heuchera hybrids, Zones 4–8), even though the ants are attacking them left and right. It seems to be their favorite plant for making ant hills in.

    mulched garden bedA lady gave me some golden-orange heuchera. It is very small this year, but it is coming along.

    front yard garden bed with large stones around the edgeThis grass was also given to me. (Sorry, I don’t know the name of anything.) We had a great big cedar in front of the basement window and decided we wanted it gone, so my husband very cleverly cut it down himself.

    garden bed in front yard with birdbathThis garden goes all the way down the hill. I planted some more grasses in it, and the bleeding hearts are doing fantastic. They had to be covered with blankets a week ago because we had frost, and they froze in other years and so did damage to the hostas and lilies. They did not die; they just looked ugly for a while.

    close up of garden bed with lots of foliage plantsThere is no mulch in the garden yet. But maybe we will still mulch or maybe not. We are undecided. It is expensive.

    wider view of garden bedMore heucheras give color in the garden.

    foundation garden bed with small plantsThere was another cedar there in the corner by the door, but it was hitting the roof and did not look very good, so it is gone too. There is a nice hosta and some Miscanthus grass, which does not seem to be doing too well.

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • When Are Raspberries Ready to Pick? | Gardener’s Path

    When Are Raspberries Ready to Pick? | Gardener’s Path

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    Raspberries are fruits in the Rubus genus of the Rosaceae or rose family.

    Whether black, golden, purple, or red, they are pleasantly tart summertime treats that are delicious out of hand, or used in recipes ranging from scones and tarts to ice creams and sorbets, preserves, and syrups.

    A vertical image of a hand harvesting raspberries into a clear bucket outdoors. To the top and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    Our guide to growing raspberries discusses everything you need to know to cultivate your crop.

    This article focuses on one aspect of cultivation: picking.

    Read on to learn when and how to harvest raspberries, consider some of our favorite cultivated varieties, and discover festive recipes to celebrate the harvest.

    Here’s the lineup:

    Let’s head out to the berry patch!

    Understanding Raspberry Growth Habits

    Raspberries are soft, edible fruits with clusters of juice-filled, seeded drupes surrounding a stem portion called a torus or core. The plants have roots, crowns, and canes.

    The roots are hidden underground and the crowns sit at soil level, where the roots and stems meet. Roots and crowns are perennial.

    A horizontal image of an outdoor plot of fruitless raspberry stems, with a road and wooden fence in the background.

    The canes are long, unbranched stems that live for two years. They range in height from three to nine feet, depending upon the species or cultivated variety.

    There are two types: primocanes and floricanes.

    Primocanes are soft, first-year stems that sprout in the spring.

    Floricanes are woody second-year stems.

    In addition, there are three types of raspberries:

    • Summer-Bearing
    • Fall-Bearing
    • Everbearing

    Summer-bearing types flower and fruit on floricanes from early to late summer.

    Fall-bearing plants bloom and set fruit on primocanes from late summer to frost. We prune them post-harvest.

    Varieties billed as “everbearing” are bred to yield two equally abundant crops in the summer and the fall.

    Sometimes we can get a fall-bearing plant to behave like an everbearing one. To do this, we allow some stems to remain after post-harvest pruning in the fall or very early spring.

    This yields an additional, if smaller, summer bumper crop on the floricanes.

    Species and cultivated varieties are available for USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 10. They yield best in full sun but generally tolerate part shade.

    Plant in organically-rich loam that is slightly acidic with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5, moist, and well-draining.

    Cultivars to Select

    Three of our favorite red varieties are:

    Autumn Bliss

    Rubus ‘Autumn Bliss’ is a fall-bearing cultivar for full sun to part shade locations in Zones 3 to 8.

    Plants mature to modest dimensions of four to five feet tall and one to two feet wide, requiring no support structure. Primocanes bear red fruits from late summer to frost. Prune post-harvest.

    A closeup image of three Rubus 'Autumn Bliss' growing in an outdoor garden.

    ‘Autumn Bliss’

    Leaving some primocanes in place after you pick may result in a small summer yield in addition to the usual fall harvest.

    ‘Autumn Bliss’ is available from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Boyne 

    R. idaeus ‘Boyne’ is a summer-bearing option for full sun placements in Zones 3 to 8.

    Mature dimensions are four to six feet tall and three to four feet wide. Staking is not required.

    A closeup image of three Rubus 'Boyne' fruits growing outdoors.

    ‘Boyne’

    Floricanes bear red fruits in early summer. Prune post-harvest.

    ‘Boyne’ is available from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Heritage

    R. idaeus var. strigosus ‘Heritage’ is an everbearing variety for full sun locations in Zones 4 to 8.

    Expect mature dimensions of five to six feet tall and three to four feet wide. Supplemental support is not required.

    A closeup image of two individual R. idaeus var. strigosus 'Heritage' fruits growing in sunlight outdoors.

    ‘Heritage’

    Floricanes bear red fruits in midsummer, and primocanes fruit from late summer to frost. Prune in early spring.

    ‘Heritage’ is available from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Discover more delicious varieties of raspberries to grow at home in our roundup.

    When Are Raspberries Ripe and Ready?

    Raspberries mature about 30 days after flowers are pollinated.

    A horizontal image of a bee pollinating the flowers of a Rubus plant outdoors.

    Nursery plant tags detail the average number of days to maturity. As plants near harvest time, the hard green fruits turn black, golden, purple, or red. 

    Go out early each morning to check for ripeness. This is the best time to pick them, before the heat of the day, when they tend to shrink and soften a bit.

    Look for signs of maturity, including bright and uniform color, plumpness, and full size, measuring about one to three centimeters, or a third of an inch to an inch in diameter.

    A horizontal closeup image of ripened raspberries growing from a species of Rubus in an outdoor garden.

    Underripe berries are pale or blotchy, hard, and small.

    Overripe fruits are dull, misshapen, deflated, wet, and possibly discolored or moldy.

    When you spot a ripe prospect ready for harvest, the guesswork stops here. If it’s time, when you grasp the berry lightly between your thumb and forefinger, it will drop into your hand, leaving the torus behind. If it isn’t ready, it will remain attached.

    Be sure to use a light touch, as the fruits squash easily.

    As you gather, place the fruits in a single layer to avoid bruising them and releasing the delectable juices. If possible, collect them in the same container you will keep them in.

    Consume your harvest immediately, or store it unwashed in the refrigerator for one to two days.

    And now, for some sweet treats!

    Recipes and Cooking Ideas

    These fruits are not only delicious fresh out of hand but in various craveworthy confections, like baked goods and frozen treats. They are a good source of antioxidants and fiber and a positive contribution to a healthy diet.

    Our sister site, Foodal, has useful tips on how to get the most out of fresh berries. You might also be enticed to try the following delicious recipes:

    Chocolate raspberry cream sandwich cookies are thin and chewy cocoa-rich cookies with a slight crunch, and a rich fruit and cream cheese filling. Find the recipe now on Foodal.

    A close up of chocolate oreos with a cream filling.

    Vegan vanilla raspberry cake with oreos features layers of light, moist vanilla cake, and a fruity dairy-free buttercream and Oreo filling. Directions for making these tasty treats are available from Foodal as well.

    And sparkling raspberry lemonade is a thirst-quenching beverage with a honey-mint syrup base that’s cool and refreshing on a hot summer afternoon. Find it on Foodal.

    Raspberries Rock

    Once picked, raspberries do not continue to ripen, so don’t rush them. 

    A horizontal closeup image of raspberries growing on a Rubus plant in an outdoor garden.

    Wait for the signs of readiness we discussed:

    • Bright and uniform color
    • Plumpness
    • Full-size, about a third of an inch to an inch in diameter

    Remember to harvest during the cool, early-morning hours for firm, plump fruits that are less likely to bruise.

    When ripe and ready, berries detach easily from the torus when grasped between your thumb and forefinger. Use them within two days of harvest for peak flavor and freshness.

    Do you grow raspberries? What are your favorites? Please share your responses in the comments section below.

    If you found this article informative and want to learn more about berry growing, we recommend the following:

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    Nan Schiller

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  • Homemade Rhubarb Jam Recipe (Quick & Easy!)

    Homemade Rhubarb Jam Recipe (Quick & Easy!)

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    Rhubarb jam is quick and easy to make with my recipe, and it is the best. It’s seriously delicious, and you can make your own at home with just 3 ingredients.

    If rhubarb is flourishing in your garden or you find a good deal on it at the market, this is the perfect way to use it up.

    With a few simple ingredients and common kitchen tools, you will be on your way to making your own rhubarb jam in no time.

    Nothing’s better than enjoying homemade rhubarb jam anytime throughout the year. Below I will show you how to make it with ease.

    How To Make Rhubarb Jam: Easy Recipe

    Homemade Rhubarb Jam

    Making your own rhubarb jam is easier than most people realize, and this recipe comes together very quickly. So you can whip up a batch in no time, and enjoy the taste of summer all year long.

    What Does Rhubarb Jam Taste Like?

    This rhubarb jam recipe is so perfectly tangy yet sweet and versatile to use with a number of foods and recipes.

    You could eat it right out of the jar while it’s still warm, keep it in the fridge, or can it for later use.

    It tastes wonderful on toast or a peanut butter sandwich, or spread it on your favorite muffin or crackers.

    You could also add it to your favorite desserts, such as dolloped on top of cheesecake or ice cream. Or use it to make a cobbler or pie any time of the year.

    Freshly made small batch rhubarb jam
    Freshly made small batch rhubarb jam

    Best Types Of Rhubarb For Making Jam

    Ultimately you could use any rhubarb variety you have on hand to make jam, all of them will taste great.

    But one of the most popular types to use is Colorado Red because of its vibrant color, which creates an aesthetically appealing end product.

    Rhubarb Jelly Vs. Rhubarb Jam

    The main differences between rhubarb jelly and rhubarb jam are the texture and the way you process them.

    Jelly is made from straining the juice. It doesn’t contain any rhubarb pieces, so the texture is smooth with a gelatin consistency.

    Jam is made using the vegetable chunks, which are either chopped, crushed, or pureed. The consistency is looser, and it is also thicker.

    My easy rhubarb jam ready to eat
    My easy rhubarb jam ready to eat

    How To Make Rhubarb Jam

    This classic jam recipe calls for only 3 common ingredients, rhubarb, sugar, and lemon juice. It’s quick to make, so you’ll be enjoying it in a few hours.

    Rhubarb Jam Recipe Ingredients

    I created this jam recipe to be easy to assemble using ingredients you probably already have in your pantry. Here’s what you’ll need to make it.

    • Rhubarb – This is the star ingredient for the recipe. Right out of the garden is best, or choose the freshest, crispest rhubarb you can get from the grocery store or farmer’s market.
    • Sugar – This adds sweetness that balances and compliments the tartness of the rhubarb. It also draws out the liquid and helps aid in the gelling process of the natural pectins.
    • Lemon juice – This helps to create the thick jammy consistency that we’re after. It reacts with the rhubarb’s natural pectin to thicken it during processing.

    Tools & Equipment Needed

    Below is a list of all the items you’ll need to make this rhubarb jam recipe. Gather everything before you start to simplify the process.

    Ingredients for making rhubarb jam
    Ingredients for making rhubarb jam

    Preparing Rhubarb For Making Jam

    Before you begin making your jam, prepare the rhubarb by removing and discarding the leaves and root ends. Then rinse the stalks to remove any dirt and debris, and cut them into small ½ to ¼ inch pieces.

    Put the pieces into a mixing bowl and toss them with the sugar. Cover the bowl and place it in the refrigerator for 8-10 hours to release the natural liquids from the rhubarb.

    Tips For Making Rhubarb Jam

    Below are a few tips to help you be successful at making this rhubarb jam recipe.

    • Don’t skip on the lemon juice. It’s easy to think it’s not essential to the recipe, but without it the pectin in the rhubarb can’t form a gel, and your jam will be runny.
    • If the jam hasn’t set after cooling, add it all back into the cooking pot and bring it to a boil again for 5 minutes, adding another 1-2 tablespoons of lemon juice to it.

    Can You Make Rhubarb Jam Without Added Pectin?

    You can make this jam without adding pectin because rhubarb naturally contains pectin. So all you need are sugar and lemon juice to create the gel texture.

    Mixing sugar with rhubarb for jam
    Mixing sugar with rhubarb for jam

    Can You Make Low Sugar Rhubarb Jam?

    You can experiment with making low sugar rhubarb jam. However, you may find that it won’t form a good gel, resulting in a runny end product. You also may notice it tastes much more tart.

    For this recipe, I used a moderate amount of sugar that creates a very nice balance. Not too sweet or tart.

    Canning Your Rhubarb Jam (Optional)

    If you want to make several batches of this recipe, or you want to save it for longer, you could try canning your rhubarb jam.

    Since rhubarb is naturally acidic, it’s safe to use the water bath method. Simply clean and prepare your jars, then fill your water bath canner and bring it to a boil.

    Fill the hot jars with hot rhubarb jam, leaving ¼” of headspace, and fasten the lids and bands on top.

    Process the jars for 15 minutes in the boiling water bath, adjusting the time for altitude if necessary.

    How To Store Rhubarb Jam

    Store your jars of freshly made rhubarb jam in the refrigerator, or enjoy it right away. You could also freeze it.

    If you choose to process yours in a boiling water bath, you can store the sealed jars in a cool, dark location, like a pantry or cupboard.

    How Long Does Rhubarb Jam Last?

    Rhubarb jam will last in the refrigerator for about a month or the freezer for about 6 months.

    When sealed and stored properly, home canned rhubarb jam can last up to one year.

    Using homemade rhubarb jam on toast
    Using homemade rhubarb jam on toast

    FAQs

    Below are my answers to some of your most commonly asked questions about making rhubarb jam.

    Do you need to peel rhubarb for jam?

    No you do not need to peel rhubarb for jam. Simply wash it, remove and discard the leaves and root ends, and cut the stalks into small pieces.

    Does rhubarb have a lot of pectin?

    Yes, rhubarb does have a lot of natural pectin in it, which is what allows it to thicken into jam by just adding sugar and lemon juice.

    Why isn’t my rhubarb jam setting?

    If your rhubarb jam isn’t setting it could be because you measured your sugar wrong, didn’t use enough lemon juice, or did not cook it long enough. Make sure to follow the directions in this recipe exactly.

    Can you use frozen rhubarb for jam?

    You can definitely use frozen rhubarb for jam. Just allow it to defrost under cool water first, and then proceed with the recipe.

    How do you thicken rhubarb jam?

    You can thicken rhubarb jam by boiling it for 5 additional minutes and adding in 1-2 extra tablespoons of lemon juice, if necessary. You can also add pectin, but I recommend using the no-sugar variety to avoid adding more sugar.

    Making your own homemade rhubarb jam is so easy using this simple recipe. Before you know it, you’ll have jars ready to enjoy anytime you find yourself with a craving.

    If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

    Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

    More Garden Fresh Recipes

    Share your tips for making rhubarb jam or your favorite recipe in the comments section below.

    How To Make Rhubarb Jam Recipe & Instructions

    Recipe & Instructions

    Yield: 2 pints (4 half pint jars)

    Rhubarb Jam Recipe

    How To Make Rhubarb Jam: Easy Recipe

    You can quickly whip up a batch of this easy homemade rhubarb jam with only 3 ingredients. It’s delicious spread on toast, dolloped on top of cheesecake or ice cream, or you can use it to make a cobbler or pie any time of the year.

    Prep Time
    10 minutes

    Cook Time
    30 minutes

    Additional Time
    10 hours

    Total Time
    10 hours 40 minutes

    Instructions

    1. Prepare the rhubarb – Remove and discard the leaves and root ends, then rinse the stalks and chop them into ½ to ¼ inch pieces. Cutting up rhubarb to make jam
    2. Macerate in sugar – Place the cut pieces into a mixing bowl, sprinkle them with the sugar, and toss it together to coat the rhubarb. Cover the bowl and place it in the refrigerator for 8-10 hours. Sugar sprinkled over rhubarb pieces
    3. Cook the jam – Pour the rhubarb mixture with all of its liquids into a cooking pot, then add the lemon juice. Simmer on medium heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring it often. As it softens you can mash the rhubarb pieces, if you prefer, using a potato masher. Cooking down the rhubarb jam
    4. Reduce and set the jam – Reduce the heat to low and cook your jam for another 10 minutes, continuing to stir it frequently. Thickening the rhubarb jam
    5. Cool and fill the jars – Remove the jam from the burner and allow it to cool for about 15 minutes. Use a ladle and canning funnel to fill your jars, then fasten a new lid and a band on top. Filling canning jars with rhubarb jam
    6. Label and store – Use a permanent marker or dissolvable labels to mark the jars with the date, then place them into the refrigerator.

    Notes

    • You can have fun experimenting by substituting half of the rhubarb for strawberries in this recipe.
    • If your jam is too thin, reboil it for 5 minutes and add another 1-2 tablespoons of lemon juice to help thicken it.

    Nutrition Information:

    Yield:

    32

    Serving Size:

    2 Tablespoons

    Amount Per Serving:

    Calories: 53Total Fat: 0gSaturated Fat: 0gTrans Fat: 0gUnsaturated Fat: 0gCholesterol: 0mgSodium: 1mgCarbohydrates: 14gFiber: 0gSugar: 13gProtein: 0g

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    Amy Andrychowicz

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  • How to Grow and Care for Spotted Joe-Pye Weed

    How to Grow and Care for Spotted Joe-Pye Weed

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    Eutrochium maculatum

    Denizen of roadside ditches, marshy edges, and wet pond shores, spotted joe-pye weed is the stand-out inhabitant of some often overlooked locations.

    This tall member of the sunflower family, Asteraceae, can grow to heights of seven to eight feet and produces voluminous clusters of pink flowers as big as your head.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    Come August, when spotted joe-pye weed starts to bloom, this perennial attracts a whirl of pollinators, from tiny wasps and spotted beetles to bees of every stripe and size.

    Native across almost all of Canada and the United States save the northernmost and southernmost regions, spotted joe-pye is adapted to a wide range of climate conditions.

    In fact, this hardy native thrives in a variety of habitats and an array of soil types too, from wet to freely draining, and rich and loamy to tough and full of clay.

    This adaptable perennial is the perfect plant for wildlife gardens. The flowers of spotted joe-pye weed are excellent nectar sources for pollinators and the seed heads are good food for birds.

    With its staggered whorls of leaves ascending tall, mottled (hence the name, “maculatum,” which means “spotted”) stems, spotted joe-pye weed adds dramatic effect to the back of any garden bed. Fortunately, shorter varieties exist too if you’re, um, short on space.

    Read on to find out more about growing this giant among wildflowers.

    What Is Spotted Joe-Pye Weed?

    A member of one of the largest flowering plant families on earth, the Asteraceae, spotted joe-pye weed belongs to a well-known genus recently renamed Eutrochium.

    Many of the five species in this genus are used in horticulture and well-loved for their unfussiness and reliability.

    The close relatives the joe-pyes left behind in their original genus, Eupatorium, are commonly known as the thoroughworts or bonesets.

    A close up of a spotted joe-pye weed flower pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

    Although all five are commonly called joe-pye weeds, each species occupies a slightly different ecological niche than the other, spanning a range of natural habitats from former meadows and swamps to dappled forest edges.

    The common name is thought to come from a native American man of the same name who cured a plague of typhoid fever with a brew made from this plant.

    Spotted joe-pye weed is one of the most grandiose amongst its close kin, boasting large flower heads that are actually aggregations of hundreds of tiny flowers, and lofty, long stems.

    A close up horizontal image of pink spotted joe-pye weed growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

    Each species features a characteristic whorl of leaves – the genus name Eutrochium is derived from the Greek “troch,” for wheel) – and spotted joe-pye’s can reach up to eight inches long.

    The stems of E. maculatum distinguish it from other plants in the genus not just because of their height, but for the port wine-colored blotches that are its namesake.

    Even when it’s not in bloom, this perennial’s unique foliar characteristics help it stand out in the garden. There are few other garden ornamentals with this type of towering, whorled foliage.

    Cultivation and History

    Although the story of joe-pye weed’s namesake medicine man may be hearsay, the plant has certainly been used for medicinal purposes for many centuries.

    A close up horizontal image of a bee feeding from a pink flower growing in the garden pictured in light sunshine on a soft focus background.

    Commonly used in a decoction or tea, its roots and leaves were believed to help cure a multitude of ailments related to the urinary system including kidney and bladder stones, and even bed wetting.

    Once lumped into the same genus of plants as the popular medicinal known as boneset, older accounts of joe-pye weed’s curative properties may actually have been describing the abilities of its close, and similar-looking, cousins.

    Hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 8, spotted joe-pye weed has gradually grown in popularity, transcending its reputation as a drive-by roadside wildflower.

    Numerous popular cultivars exist today, making the plant even more adaptable and accessible to gardeners.

    Propagation

    To grow spotted joe-pye in your own garden you’ll need a moist to wet area situated in full sun.

    Although it can grow in partial shade and freely draining soil, this native perennial will be more vigorous in optimally sunny, evenly moist conditions.

    From Seed

    The most cost-effective way to get this pollinator magnet blooming in your garden is to purchase – or better yet, collect from the wild – a handful of seeds.

    A close up horizontal image of a butterfly feeding from a spotted joe-pye weed growing in the garden.

    If you want to collect seed from wild plants, identify a population in late summer, when the pink flowers are easiest to spot. Assure that you have permission to do so, and do not gather seed or other plant parts from protected lands.

    Collect the seed once the flowers have fluffed out and produced white “pappus,” the fluffy, parachute-like appendages that help these seeds to fly. This usually happens in October. Store the seeds in a paper envelope out of direct sunlight until you’re ready to sow.

    You’ll have the most success germinating seed if you try to emulate what Mother Nature does: sow a few clusters of seeds on the surface of the soil in an appropriate spot in the garden before the first fall frost.

    Push the seeds firmly into lightly raked soil but don’t cover them! These seeds need light to germinate.

    The cold winter weather will stratify the seed and prepare it to transform come spring. You can read more about winter-sowing flower seed in our guide.

    In spring, thin the seedlings by removing the weakest ones, letting the largest grow. Keep them watered well. Spotted joe-pye weed will typically reach flower-producing maturity in the second year of growth, but you might get lucky the first year.

    Seed can also be started indoors in pots, but it must be cold stratified for 30 to 60 days in the fridge before sowing. To cold stratify artificially indoors, place seeds in moistened vermiculite or a damp paper towel inside a zip-top bag.

    After stratification, fill two- to four-inch pots with potting soil. Press two to three seeds per pot into the potting soil six to eight weeks before the last frost date.

    Keep the soil moist but not soaking until the seeds germinate. Make sure your pots get plenty of sun, at least six to eight hours each day.

    Once the seedlings have at least two pairs of true leaves begin hardening them off after all danger of frost has passed.

    Bring the seedlings outside in the daytime for short, one-hour increments and inside again at night.

    After a week to 10 days, gradually increasing the number of hours outside each day, the seedlings will be accustomed to the outdoors, so you can get to transplanting!

    From Cuttings

    Spotted joe-pye weed can also be propagated using the growing tips of a mature plant’s new stems. Harvest this new, soft growth in late spring, making sure each piece is four to six inches long.

    Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem to encourage the cutting to focus on root growth, and dip each stem in rooting hormone. Fill deep pots at least four inches tall with moist perlite. Bury the bottom inch or two of each cutting in the perlite and water well.

    Tent the cuttings with a plastic bag and place in a location that gets plenty of sun, but where it won’t roast. The greenhouse effect of the plastic bag over the cuttings can amplify sunlight while retaining moisture, actually burning your tender cutting’s leaves.

    Within about six weeks, your cuttings should begin to root. Give each cutting a couple extra weeks to establish a strong root system and then transplant out in the garden, following the instructions below.

    From Transplants

    The easiest way to establish spotted joe-pye weed is by purchasing a mature plant at a nursery.

    Site your new addition, your homegrown seedlings, or your rooted cuttings in an area of the garden with plenty of space to prosper, and preferably somewhere they can keep their feet wet. These plants love moisture.

    Make sure to dig the hole just deep enough so that the level of the soil of the root ball is even with the level of the soil in your garden. Water in really well!

    How to Grow

    Spotted joe-pye weed is a low-maintenance participant in the garden scene, but while it’s young it will require just a little TLC.

    A close up horizontal image of a pink spotted joe-pye weed pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

    This stalwart isn’t too picky about soil type. It prefers a circum-neutral, consistently moist loam. However, any soil within a pH range of around 6.0 to 7.0 will do, so long as it’s watered well during dry spells and fed once in the spring if nutrient content in the soil is low.

    Spotted joe-pye also has a preference for full sun but, easygoing as it is, will grow just fine in partial shade as well.

    Remove weeds around the plant so they don’t compete for water and nutrients, and make sure the soil remains fairly moist while young plants or transplants are getting established.

    Roadside ditches are a favorite contemporary habitat of this plant as they’re almost always reliably damp and sunny.

    Maybe you have a dip in the garden where rain water pools? Or a leaky spigot where your hose connects to the house? This could be the perfect micro-habitat for your own stand of joe.

    Growing Tips

    • Plant in average to rich, moist to wet soils.
    • Prefers a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
    • Provide at least three feet of space so mature plants can spread.
    • Site in a location with full sun or partial shade.
    • Water well during dry periods.
    • Top dress with compost in spring if growing in poor soil.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    Requiring virtually no maintenance to thrive, spotted joe-pye weed can be left almost completely to its own devices.

    Some gardeners choose to cut down browned stems and spent flower heads once the growing season is over, but the plant’s robust stems actually serve a purpose, providing cozy overwintering homes for insects if left standing.

    A close up horizontal image of spotted joe-pye weed flowers that are fading in the fall.

    You can cut down old stems in late spring, or just let the wind blow them down and degrade naturally in the garden, providing even more beneficial critter habitat.

    Spotted joe-pye will self-seed, so if you prefer just one titan towering over the garden, prune spent flower heads in mid-fall, or just weed out the seedlings in spring.

    As with most garden plants, spotted joe-pye will benefit from a top dressing of compost in the spring, particularly if growing in nutrient-poor soil. If passing through a dry spell, make sure to water your plants well. This native always prefers a little extra moisture.

    Spring is also the time to divide older plants. Use a sharp spade to slice through the middle of the clump, prying up half of the plant’s root ball.

    These new divisions can then be planted throughout the garden so stems are level with the surface of the soil.

    It’s best to plant divisions immediately so the underground rhizomes don’t dry out. Relocate the new clumps to places where they’ll have plenty of space to spread, water to drink, and sunlight to revel in.

    Cultivars to Select

    As native plants have gained a solid foothold in gardens across the country, so has the number of cultivars available increased.

    Be careful when selecting cultivars to eschew those that are billed as pollenless or low on nectar. These traits can escape into wild populations and affect the pollinators that depend on wild plants for food.

    ‘Purple Bush’

    ‘Purple Bush’ produces purple flowers in a looser inflorescence, and reaches a maximum height of approximately five feet.

    ‘Gateway’ is taller, around six feet in height, and sports dense, upright clusters of pink flowers.

    ‘Reisenschirm’ produces densely packed pink-purple blossoms.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    As is common with many native species, spotted joe-pye weed is plagued by very few notable diseases, and even fewer pests bother it.

    Herbivores

    Thanks to the bitter compounds present in spotted joe-pye weed’s leaves, herbivores generally choose to chew on something else.

    Insects

    While plenty of insects rely on spotted joe-pye weed, from its flowers to its leaves to its purple-spotted stems, few bugs, if any, do damage that need concern a gardener.

    Disease

    Resilient and vigorous, this plant is generally disease free, especially when grown in optimal conditions.

    Powdery Mildew

    This common fungus typically crops up during dry spells, when plants are stressed.

    Often seen on plants situated in shady areas, it proliferates in areas of poor air circulation and appears initially as white spots on young leaves.

    If you’re eagle-eyed enough to notice the infection in its infancy, pull off the affected leaves and destroy them by burning or tossing in the garbage – composting won’t destroy the spores.

    If your plants are growing in the shade, consider moving them to better conditions in full sun in the fall, and watering more diligently to avoid drought stress. Water the soil around plants, not the leaves, as wet foliage will only help spread the fungus.

    In healthy plants, powdery mildew shouldn’t impact bloom production or seed set too much.

    If you’re concerned, spraying neem oil or another fungicide can be effective in killing the fungus and preventing another outbreak.

    Read our guide to discover more options for treating powdery mildew in the garden.

    Best Uses

    Undoubtedly, spotted joe-pye weed’s best use is in the wildlife garden where it may be allowed to grow rampantly, attracting hordes of beautiful winged things.

    A close up horizontal image of a butterfly feeding from a native wildflower in a sunny garden.

    Statuesque and sturdy, this wildflower is a cinch to grow and its diaphanous pink flower heads look gorgeous adorned with striped bees, sparkling beetles, and painted butterflies of every color.

    The cut flowers can be used in large arrangements to great effect, too, although they require a tall and non-tippy vase.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Perennial wildflower Flower / Foliage Color: Pink to purple/dark green
    Native to: Eastern North America Maintenance: Low
    Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-8 Tolerance: Herbivores, clay soil, wet soil
    Bloom Time: Late summer-early fall Soil Type: Rich, moist loam
    Exposure: Full sun to partial shade Soil pH: 6.0-7.5
    Time to Maturity: 1-2 years Soil Drainage: Moderate to moist
    Spacing: 3-4 feet Attracts: Bees, beetles, birds, butterflies, hummingbirds, wasps
    Planting Depth: Soil surface (seed), top of root ball even with ground (transplants) Uses: Back of borders, wildlife garden, rain garden, cut flower
    Height: 4-7 feet Order: Asterales
    Spread: 3-4 feet Family: Asteraceae
    Water Needs: Moderate Genus: Eutrochium
    Common Disease: Powdery mildew Species: Maculatum

    Rock the Roadside Rockstar

    This roadside standout is a star among late summer wildflowers, blooming when so many plants have petered out.

    Tolerant of a wide range of soils, lenient when it comes to dry spells, and committed to soldiering on – even if you stuff it in the back border and forget about it – spotted joe-pye is truly the lazy gardener’s champion.

    A close up horizontal image of the flowers of spotted joe-pye weed (Eutrochium maculatum) growing in the garden.

    A surefire pollinator magnet, spotted joe-pye weed is the hero of the eco-friendly backyard, too. You can’t go wrong planting one of these and letting the insects come to feast.

    Do you currently grow spotted joe-pye in your backyard? Tell us where it’s situated, and what beautiful insects you’ve seen using it. Comments are always welcome!

    To learn more about native flowers to grow in your garden, check out the following guides next:

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    Molly Marquand

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  • Tour a Beautiful, Eco-Friendly Front-Yard Garden – FineGardening

    Tour a Beautiful, Eco-Friendly Front-Yard Garden – FineGardening

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    Lou and Dell Salza’s front yard in Shaker Heights, Ohio, is living proof that a garden can be both beautiful and ecologically functional. Making the most of a modestly sized front lawn, designers Sabrena Schweyer and Samuel Salzbury of Salzbury Schweyer Landscape Design created a comfortable outdoor living space that tastefully incorporates permaculture principles and environmentally friendly rainwater management systems. Each plant that was chosen for this landscape has a function and a purpose. Perennials, shrubs, and spring-flowering bulbs provide a succession of blooms that attract plenty of pollinators throughout the growing season. There are edible fruits and berries, and many native plants that support and shelter insect larvae, birds, and other wildlife. An herb spiral is situated close to the sidewalk, and neighbors are encouraged to harvest fresh herbs whenever they wish.

    Departure from a “normal” front yard

    Most front lawns in this historic suburban neighborhood look very similar, with expanses of turfgrass punctuated by gracious street trees and perhaps a few manicured shrubs. In contrast, the Salzas’ front garden is filled with lush colors and textures, demonstrating the full potential of a successful lawn replacement. There is one small circle of turf beneath a tree swing that is frequented by children from the neighborhood. This higher-traffic area of the garden was seeded with a low-mow mix of slow-growing species that are shade tolerant and that require less mowing, watering, and fertilizer than typical turf.

    Eco-friendly features double the impact

    This mindful garden design also has many features that keep stormwater on site rather than running off into the often-overwhelmed municipal storm sewers. When it rains, water from the home’s roof is collected in a series of rain barrels and can be used for watering the garden during dry periods. If the rain barrels fill to capacity, excess water is directed into a rain garden, where it can seep into the ground gradually. Densely planted garden beds naturally absorb more water than a shallow-rooted suburban lawn. The asphalt driveway has been replaced with a permeable paving system installed over a deep gravel base that allows water to infiltrate the soil.

     

    Learn more:

    Digging Deeper Into Sustainable Garden Design

    Replace a Front Lawn With a Beautiful, Eco-Friendly Garden

    Planting for Pollinators

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    Carol Collins

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  • How to Grow and Care for New England Aster Flowers

    How to Grow and Care for New England Aster Flowers

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    Symphyotrichum novae-angliae

    New England aster, Symphyotrichum novae-angliae, is a perennial member of the Asteraceae family that includes chrysanthemums and daisies.

    Also known as Michaelmas daisy, this nectar-rich flower is native to the US, where it grows wild along roadways and in meadows.

    A close look at its vivid violet blue, pink, purple, or white blossoms reveals yellow centers teeming with butterflies and bees, nature’s most beneficial pollinators.

    Close up of purple New England aster blooms.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    In this article, you’ll learn how to cultivate and maintain this flowering plant in your garden.

    Cultivation and History

    The leaves, flowers, and roots of S. novae-angliae have long been used in herbal medicine and purification rituals.

    A close up of a bright red New England aster flower pictured in bright sunshine growing in the garden on a soft focus background.

    The common name “Michaelmas daisy” refers to September 29, the feast of St. Michael, which happens to fall when the flowers are in full bloom.

    In the early 1700s, travelers from England and parts of continental Europe brought the US-native plant home with them, and breeders developed new cultivars. It wasn’t long before the new versions of the plant made their way back to gardens in the United States.

    Botanical species plants can reach a towering six feet tall. Modern cultivars offer a more compact choice, topping out at around three feet.

    This is a robust plant with an upright growth habit.

    The stems grow straight up without branching, and bear conical clusters of daisy-like blooms, with rays of violet blue, pink, or purple surrounding a yellow center disc.

    A close up of a light purple Symphyotrichum novae-angliae flower with a yellow center, on a green soft focus background.

    The foliage springs directly from the erect stems in stair-step style. The lance-shaped leaves have smooth margins.

    The stems, leaf margins, and leaf undersides are covered in fine hair, a noteworthy characteristic that aids in positively identifying the species.

    Formerly a member of the large Aster genus, this flower was reclassified as a Symphyotrichum because of its distinguishing hairy foliage.

    Propagation

    Now that we have a little background, let’s talk about ways to propagate both botanical species and cultivated varieties, so you can get started on your own colorful display.

    A close up of a mass planting of Symphyotrichum novae-angliae with purple flowers, fading to soft focus in the background.

    There are three ways to propagate this plant:

    • From Seed
    • From Stem Cuttings
    • By Division

    Let’s take a look at each of them.

    From Seed

    S. novae-angliae naturalizes in a clumping fashion through vigorous self-seeding, and via a shallow but extensive root system.

    The seeds of true botanical species will produce clones of the parent plant.

    Seeds from cultivated varieties may produce true to seed, but seeds of hybrids do not yield the same quality or traits of a parent plant.

    If you decide to propagate with seeds, here’s how:

    Start seeds indoors about a month before the last frost date for your region. Sprinkle one or two seeds in each seed starter pot or egg carton cell filled with potting medium.

    Barely cover them, so that they are no deeper than 1/8 inch. Place the containers in a location that receives indirect sunlight. Keep them evenly moist, but not soggy.

    Thin the seedlings out when they have one set of true leaves, keeping the stronger of the two in each cell.

    When the last average frost date has passed, acclimate the seedlings to the outdoors by setting them out in the sun for two hours or so each day for three or four days.

    After acclimation, transplant the seedlings outdoors.

    Alternatively, you can direct sow in the garden after the last frost date, all the way up to fall, when asters drop their seeds.

    To replicate the characteristics of cultivars and hybrids, use one of the following two techniques.

    From Stem Cuttings

    In the spring or early summer, you may take a cutting from a soft stem. Here’s how:

    Use clean pruning shears to cut a six-inch stem from your plant, removing the leaves from the bottom 3-4 inches. Dip the stem into water and then into a rooting hormone powder.

    Fill a seed starting container with potting medium, and plant the cutting 2-3 inches deep.

    Keep the container out of direct sunlight, and maintain even moisture but don’t oversaturate it.

    Some folks like to make a self-watering mini greenhouse by placing a plastic bag over the stem and container. If you choose to do this, be extra careful not to place it in direct sunlight, or it will cook.

    New growth is evidence of root formation and will indicate that the cutting is ready to plant out.

    By Division

    You can also make new plants from old ones by dividing them. This is a process of cutting straight down through the fleshy roots, removing the divided portion, and planting it elsewhere.

    Please see our guide to dividing asters for complete instructions.

    How to Grow

    Choose a location that gets full sun to part shade and has room for this vigorous perennial to spread.

    A close up of a large clump of Symphyotrichum novae-angliae with purple flowers growing in the garden in bright sunshine with blue sky in the background.

    S. novae-angliae does best in organically rich, well-draining soil, like its natural habitat in the wild, but also tolerates clay very well. The pH should be acidic, in the 5.1 to 6.8 range.

    Conduct a soil test to better understand the composition of your soil. Otherwise, consider mixing in a shovelful of compost to increase acidity, and compost or sand to improve drainage.

    Work the soil (and any amendments) down to a depth of 10 to 12 inches, until it is friable, or crumbly.

    Set your seed starter pots or transplants directly into the ground at intervals of one to three feet. Plant transplants at the same depth as the container they were growing in.

    A close up of a butterfly feeding on a Symphyotrichum novae-angliae flower growing in the garden.

    If you’re direct sowing seeds, sprinkle a few over the worked ground at 12-inch intervals. Press them gently to anchor them, and barely cover them with soil, so they are not more than 1/8 inch deep.

    Alternatively, if you are growing them in pots, sow seeds in a potting medium in a container that is at least 18 inches wide and 12 inches deep.

    You can fertilize with a well-balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer at the time of planting.

    Maintain even moisture until plants are established and growing well. At this point, water only if it does not rain at least one inch per week.

    When the seedlings have one or two sets of true leaves, thin them to a distance of one to three feet.

    Growing Tips

    Native asters are easy to grow, and once you give them a good start, they’re well on their way.

    A vertical picture of the bright purple flowers of Symphyotrichum novae-angliae growing in the garden in bright sunshine.

    Here are the key points to remember:

    • Be generous with the space you allow for plants so they can naturalize by spreading roots and self-sowing.
    • Enrich the soil as needed to achieve the acidity appropriate for optimal nutrient uptake.
    • Ensure adequate drainage by adding compost or sand to inhibit fungal growth and rotting of roots.
    • Barely cover the seeds, as though they were self-sown by the plant itself.
    • Maintain even moisture throughout the first growing season, but don’t oversaturate.
    • If your plants refuse to flower, check out our guide, “7 Reasons Why Asters Fail to Bloom” for assistance.

    Read more about growing perennial aster flowers in this guide.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    You can fertilize established plants each spring with the same well-balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer you used at planting time.

    A close up of the seed heads of a New England aster plant in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

    Spring is also the time to divide plants that are getting wider than you would like.

    In addition, you can thin plants to maintain airflow and inhibit fungal growth. Do this by randomly cutting a few stems in each clump all the way to the ground and removing them.

    To encourage bushier plants, you can cut off the growing tips of the stems anytime between late spring and early summer, to promote compact growth.

    For plants that grow tall, staking may be necessary.

    A close up of the light purple flowers of the perennial plant, Symphyotrichum novae-angliae, growing in the garden on a soft focus background.

    Throughout the growing season, remember to water if it doesn’t rain at least an inch per week.

    Check plants periodically for signs of pests and disease. Hand pick, water spray, treat, or remove damaged plant material as needed, per the instructions found in the section below on pests and disease.

    Weed regularly to limit competition for water and to maintain good airflow between plants.

    To limit self-sowing, cut the flower stems before they go to seed in the fall, and use them in vase arrangements or bouquets to enjoy yourself, and share with others.

    If you want to gather seeds from your plants to sow as you choose or to share with friends, please see our guide to collecting native aster seeds.

    After your plants are finished for the season, and the first frost comes, either leave the stalks in place for wildlife habitat and attractive winter interest, or prune them down to the ground.

    Cultivars to Select

    Both botanical species and cultivated varieties of New England aster are available.

    Native S. novae-angliae tops out at a showy 3 to 5 feet, like its wildflower counterparts in meadows and marshlands.

    A close up of a light purple New England aster flower on a soft focus background.

    S. novae-angliae from Nature Hills Nursery

    Blossom rays vary from violet blue to pink and purple with yellow centers.

    You can find plants in 3-inch containers available from Nature Hills Nursery.

    S. novae-angliae ‘Purple Dome’ provides an abundance of bright purple, yellow-centered blossoms from late summer until frost.

    A clump of 'Purple Dome' New England aster flowers growing in the garden.

    ‘Purple Dome’ New England Asters

    This is a compact plant with two- to three-foot stems that offers a smaller-scale option for more manicured beds or containers.

    You can find plants in #1 containers available from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Another cultivar you may like is ‘Andenken an Alma Pötschke,’ with its rose pink flowers and manageable height of two to four feet.

    Want more options? Find more aster species and cultivars here.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    As a native species, S. novae-angliae is well-adapted to its environment and has few pest and disease issues.

    Starting with quality plants and providing excellent care goes a long way towards keeping them healthy.

    A close up of an insect pest on a purple flower pictured on a soft focus background.

    However, sometimes issues arise.

    Pests that may visit your flowers include:

    These pests are known for sucking sap from the undersides of the leaves, removing chlorophyll, and causing leaf discoloration and browning.

    And while they don’t generally cause enough harm to kill a plant, the damage can be unsightly.

    Treatments include hand picking the insects, spraying them firmly with a hose nozzle, or applying an insecticidal soap.

    In addition, an application of diatomaceous earth to the ground around the plants may inhibit infestation in the current year and the next.

    The spider mite, whether red or two-spotted, causes leaf damage similar to that of the lace bug. It feeds on the undersides of leaves, but doesn’t leave an ugly black trail. A strong hose spray or insecticidal soap should remedy the situation.

    As for disease, keep an eye out for the following:

    All three of these common fungal diseases colonize foliage and flowers, causing discoloration and loss of vigor.

    They can be treated by the removal of affected plant material and an application of fungicide.

    Give your plants all the help you can. Keep their areas weed-free to minimize insect infestation, the spread of disease, and competition for water.

    In addition, adhere to the spacing recommendations of one to three feet, to minimize humidity buildup between plants that can invite fungal growth.

    Best Uses

    Once established, S. novae-angliae will reward with years of vigorous growth and exceptional color, making every summer to fall transition a feast for the eyes.

    This striking flower pairs well with black-eyed Susan, coneflower, gaillardia, goldenrod, Montauk daisy, ornamental grasses, other types of asters, and garden phlox.

    A close up of light pink Symphyotrichum novae-angliae flowers with bees feeding from the bright yellow centers, on a dark soft focus background.

    Plant en masse in a meadow where thousands of small blossoms can create a bold splash of color.

    Sow seeds along a fence or property perimeter, where plants can form a hedgerow for wildlife.

    Use it to provide a texturally rich, green anchor for the back of a summer flower bed. When the hot-weather blooms fade, showy asters take center stage.

    And finally, select smaller-stature cultivars for container plantings on patios and at front entries, for a pop of color as summer yields to fall.

    I like native asters because they attract a host of beneficial insects, butterflies, and birds to my gardens, where I can observe them up close.

    And if you’re looking for a cutting garden flower for fall arrangements, it can’t be beat for its sturdy, erect, blossom-laden stems.

    You can count on them to last about 10 days indoors, if you trim the stems and change the water daily. Our guide to keeping cut flowers fresh provides some additional tips.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial wildflower Flower / Foliage Color: Pink, purple, violet blue, white; green
    Native to: Eastern North America Tolerance: Clay soil, deer, drought
    Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-8 Soil Type: Organically-rich
    Bloom Time / Season: Late summer to first frost Soil pH: 5.1 to 6.8
    Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil Drainage: Well-draining
    Spacing: 1-3 feet Attracts: Bees, beneficial insects, birds, butterflies
    Planting Depth: Seeds: surface sow 1/8 inch deep; transplants: same depth as container Companion Planting: Black-eyed Susan, coneflower, gallardia, golden rod, Montauk daisies, ornamental grasses, other asters, phlox
    Height: 3-6 feet Uses: Back of bed anchors, containers, cut flowers, hedgerows, mass plantings, perimeter placements
    Spread: 2-3 feet Family: Asteraceae
    Growth Rate: Fast Genus: Symphyotrichum
    Water Needs: Moderate Subgenus: Virgulus
    Maintenance: Moderate Species: novae-angliae
    Common Pests: Chrysanthemum lace bug, cucumber beetle, leaf miner, spider mite Common Disease: Aster fusarium wilt, powdery mildew, rust

    Turn Up the Color

    There’s no easier way to energize a summer-to-fall perennial garden than with asters.

    Autumn in my part of the northeast is a spectacular event, especially with vivid aster hues added to the scarlet, gold, and fiery orange foliage.

    As a matter of fact, it’s so pretty, I never mind ditching the indoor chores for an hour of leaf raking on a gloriously sunny day.

    A close up of two purple flowers of the New England aster plant pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

    And, speaking of raking leaves, what could make the job easier than a top-quality rake? Check out our guide to the best leaf rakes here.

    What vibrant colors will take your summer garden into fall this year? Tell us in the comments section below.

    And for more information on growing asters in your garden, you’ll need these guides next:

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    Nan Schiller

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  • Bill’s Pittsburgh Garden – FineGardening

    Bill’s Pittsburgh Garden – FineGardening

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    My name is Bill Goff, and I garden in the suburbs of Pittsburgh in Zone 6b. I am a retired musician. After retirement, I took the classes needed to become a Penn State Master Gardener, where I discovered I wanted to take good photos of my gardens for PowerPoint presentations. For that, I needed a better camera, and then I needed classes to learn how to use the camera, and then I needed different lenses and more classes and on and on. So, in reality, my passion for gardening has added for me a new passion of photography, for which I am truly grateful!

    I took this photo of my perennial border the morning of May 23. I have a fondness for peonies (Paeonia hybrids, Zones 3–8) and the May/June perennial garden. There is so much that blooms right about this time, and the difficulty is what NOT to include. I also have an affinity for soft and cool colors, as you can see by this photo. Peonies included here are dark pink ‘Morning Lilac’, tall soft pink ‘Bev’, and, in the foreground, ‘Red Charm.’ Companions include the purple-rounded heads of Allium ‘Globemaster’ (Zones 5–8), the deep blue blooms of Iris siberica ‘High Standards’ (Zones 3–8), and the airy, light blue blooms of Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’ (Zones 4–7). This is, for me, a beautiful time to be in the garden.

    close up of bright purple globemaster alliumI love alliums, and this one is ‘Globemaster’. It is the perfect foil for pink or white peonies and a cultivar I use in the May/June perennial border.

    sunny perennial garden border with bright orange and yellow flowersOne end of the sunny perennial border includes the hot colors of ‘Tropicanna’ canna lilies (Canna ‘Tropicanna’, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb), yellow Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’ (Zones 4–9), which is a favorite of pollinators and provides lots of blooms in August and September when there is often little color in the garden.

    large plantings of hostas next to patioA shaded area of our backyard contains a hosta bed surrounding a patio. The shade is provided by a dawn redwood tree (Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Zones 4–8), which has a fascinating history. We love to spend time outside here when the evenings are cool. Blues and greens of hostas have a calming effect, and you can’t go wrong including mixed cultivars, since they harmonize so well together.

    butterfly on a Verbena bonariensis flowerOver the years, my gardens have included more and more pollinator-friendly plants, since basically all pollinators are in deep trouble. Here, a yellow tiger swallowtail enjoys nectar from a Verbena bonariensis (Zones 7–9 or as an annual) flower, which is a tender perennial in our Zone 6b.

    close up of a large daylily gardenA patch of mixed daylilies (Hemerocallis hybrids, Zones 4–9) always makes me smile in July. These are underplanted with about 100 daffodil bulbs, which give early spring color here.

    hummingbird sipping from a canna lilyHummingbirds can’t resist the red flowers of canna lilies in the garden.

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • Lewisia cotyledon: All About the Evergreen Cliff Maids

    Lewisia cotyledon: All About the Evergreen Cliff Maids

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    Cliff Maids, Lewisia cotyledon

    Meet my new plant crush, Lewisia. Interestingly, it wasn’t love at first sight. I’d glazed over this evergreen perennial at garden stores probably a million times because it wasn’t flowering, and my thoughts were always, I have no real interest in this tiny, fleshy thing. But had I first seen it in bloom in a garden, reaching its full potential and not stunted in a constricting four-inch container, then I would have definitely been an early groupie. Also, I’m fairly certain I wasn’t aware this was a California native. Because if I had known, then I would’ve been like, I love plants that are California native, like me.

    Here’s why I’m a Lewisia convert.

    Above: Lewisia is native to rocky cliffs at high elevations. Photograph by Dan.Kristiansen via Flickr.

    Let’s start with the accolades. Lewisia (also known as cliff maids) won the prestigious Award of Garden Merit of the Royal Horticultural Society. Not too shabby. It’s easy to see why it garnered attention. This low-maintenance evergreen perennial grows into an impressive rosette of succulent-like dark green fleshy leaves that are shaped like long spoons. But as I mentioned, it’s not the foliage that led to my change of heart. The eye-catching feature are the sprays of the most charming funnel-shaped flowers. Opening to about one inch across on sturdy six-inch stems, the flowers start their show in the late spring and continue through summer, or later if happy. Ranging from pale pink, yellow, to white, salmon or magenta, the delicate petals beg for a closer inspection of its polite detailing and artistic shading between hues.

    It’s easy to overlook cliff maids at nurseries as they’re usually not in bloom in the small grow pots. Photograph by Megan Hansen via Flickr.
    Above: It’s easy to overlook cliff maids at nurseries as they’re usually not in bloom in the small grow pots. Photograph by Megan Hansen via Flickr.

    Hailing from Southern Oregon and Northern California, this sweet but hardy plant is named after the explorer Meriwether Lewis, who first discovered its close relative Lewisia redevia while on the famed Lewis and Clark Expedition. Quite small and reaching only 8 to 10 inches tall, this plant eventually grows into a surprisingly charming bouquet that’s found on rocky cliffs in high elevations. Its strong root structure and deep tap root helps it cling to a rugged terrain. You can help this plant thrive in your garden by trying to recreate its natural environment. This means planting it in very fast draining soil and preferably grown sideways, tucked into a rocky wall so that any excess water will drain away from the crown.

    Related: My crafty husband built a green roof for our little free library. I filled the “planter” with fast draining succulent soil and added a six-pack of Lewisia. Because of the pitch of the roof, these cuties ended up being planted on an angle, like their native habitat. I also added some Sedum ‘Blue Spruce’ and ‘Cape Blanco’ to the mix. After a few days, the Lewisia started blooming like crazy, beckoning and welcoming curious readers to the library.

    Cheat Sheet

    Lewisias are available in a range of colors. Photograph by Fabiana Vernero via Flickr.
    Above: Lewisias are available in a range of colors. Photograph by Fabiana Vernero via Flickr.
    • So lovely and looking right at home in rock gardens, crevice gardens, green roofs, and containers.
    • Understandably attracts butterflies and other pollinators.
    • Cut the flowers and add to tiny flower arrangements.
    • Great companion plants include: Campanulas, Sedums, and fellow California native Dudleyas

    Keep It Alive

    A Lewisia cotyledon ‘Regenbogen’ growing in a Utah garden. Photograph by Andrey Zharkikh via Flickr.
    Above: A Lewisia cotyledon ‘Regenbogen’ growing in a Utah garden. Photograph by Andrey Zharkikh via Flickr.

    • Plant these cuties in full sun near the coast or part sun inland where summers are hot.
    • Prefers slightly acidic sandy soil that is very well-draining. I have mine planted in succulent soil.
    • Plant them high in the soil to keep the crown dry.
    • Lewisia is not a thirsty plant and is drought tolerant once established. Protect from overly wet winters if possible.
    • Appreciates a top dressing of granite to simulate its native rocky home.
    • Prune away spent flowers to prolong blooming.

    See also:

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  • How to Identify and Control Bamboo Spider Mites | Gardener’s Path

    How to Identify and Control Bamboo Spider Mites | Gardener’s Path

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    If you grow bamboo in the landscape or indoors, you may have to address a spider mite infestation at some point.

    Photo by Scot Nelson via Flickr, Public Domain.

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    These aggressive, sapsucking pests thrive in warm, dry conditions. They are most likely to infest vulnerable plants that lack water and contain excess nitrogen, a nutrient they favor.

    Our guide to growing bamboo discusses cultivation in the landscape.

    This article zeroes in on bamboo spider mites. Read on and learn what to look for and how to manage an infestation.

    Here’s what we’ll cover:

    What Are Bamboo Spider Mites?

    Mites are sap-sucking pests, and although they are tiny, measuring less than 0.04 inches long, they can do severe damage and compromise the ornamental value of plants.

    A close up horizontal image of mosu bamboo growing in the garden.
    Moso bamboo, Phyllostachys edulis.

    Numerous mites in multiple taxonomic genera feed on bamboo.

    In one study, 45 species from 23 genera and nine taxonomic families were collected from moso growing in Fujian, China. Common moso, or tortoiseshell bamboo, Phyllostachys edulis, grows outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 to 10.

    The mites that do the most damage to bamboo are in the following families:

    Stigmeopsis (syn. Schizotetranychus) is a spider mite genus in the Tetranychidae family mentioned above.

    Tetranychidae is a subclassification of the Acari, or mite order of insects. Stigmeopsis spider mites are the most destructive bamboo pests in the world.

    A close up horizontal image of bamboo leaves damaged extensively by spider mites.
    Kuma bamboo, Sasa veitchii, showing signs of infestation.

    One type of Tetranychidae is Stigmeopsis longus.

    It prefers bamboo in the Sasa genus, like S. veitchii, known as kuma bamboo grass or Nagasa bamboo. This type grows outdoors in Zones 6 to 9.

    In addition to Phyllostachys and Sasa, other host genera for Stigmeopsis are Indocalamus, and Pleioblastus.

    Identification

    Stigmeopsis have eight legs, a flattened pale yellow to greenish-yellow body, and greenish-black spots.

    They live on the undersides of the leaves, mostly beneath white webbing. Frass, or black excreta, may be visible near the webbed nests.

    A close up horizontal image of bamboo foliage damaged by insects, showing stippling on the leaves.

    Telltale signs of an infestation are linear, pale yellow stippling or square to rectangular blotches on the leaf surfaces, and white webbing below.

    As the plant loses moisture due to feeding, the tips and edges of the leaves turn brown as though they are not getting enough water. As the leaves dry up, they drop.

    Extensive colonization and feeding compromise ornamental value, and in extreme cases, may lead to plant death.

    Biology and Life Cycle

    In warm climates and indoors, spider mites remain active year-round. They only stop mating when the temperature falls below 52°F.

    A close up vertical image of a clump of golden bamboo growing in the backyard with a dark terra cotta pot to the side and a concrete wall in the background.

    In cooler climes, they go into a semi-dormant state called diapause. As the days grow shorter and winter approaches, they stop feeding and reproducing and seek shelter in available crevices.

    It is fascinating to note that the females shade to red for the winter, a color that often signifies danger in nature. What a great way to safeguard the species during winter slumber!

    When spring comes, the days grow longer, the temperature increases, and the pests reemerge.

    Once they settle on a host plant, the adults colonize the undersides of leaves, feeding, mating, laying eggs, and covering their territory with a thick, white cottony web.

    Adults, young nymphs, and larvae may be visible outside the webbed colony, moving a distance from it to defecate.

    As the colony grows, individual nests merge into long, flat strips of white webbing on the leaf undersides.

    Each mite lives for only five to seven days, but multiple generations per growing season make for large populations.

    Organic Control Methods

    If you discover an infestation, there are several approaches you can take, depending on the scope and the severity.

    Cultural

    Cultural control methods may ward off pests altogether. Preemptive steps to take are:

    • Buying plants from reputable nurseries that show no signs of pest or disease damage.
    • Maintaining health with organically-rich soil, medium moisture, and full sun to part shade.
    • Using a slow-release, well-balanced fertilizer that is not overly rich in nitrogen.

    Physical

    Physical measures are readily-available controls to implement by hand upon the first sighting of pests and/or damage. Two recommendations are:

    If you are propagating bamboo, the US Department of Agriculture recommends digging and placing the dormant rhizomes in hot water heated to 122°F for 10 minutes.

    Then heel them in or temporarily cover them with sterilized sand (heated to 167°F) or sawdust until planting time.

    Spray affected foliage with water using a high, concentrated setting on the garden hose nozzle.

    Biological

    The next level of pest combat is to use a natural approach, using a botanical product or beneficial insects, such as:

    • Applying neem oil.
    • Introducing predatory insects.

    Bonide® neem oil is a natural insecticide, fungicide, and miticide derived from the seeds of the neem tree.

    Spray neem oil on the tops and undersides of the leaves every seven to 14 days for light infestation and every five to seven days for heavier populations.

    Note that while it is safe for indoor use, it has a strong, garlic-like odor.

    A close up of a bottle of Bonide Neem Oil isolated on a white background.

    Bonide Neem Oil

    Concentrated and ready-to-use (RTU) Bonide® Neem Oil are available from Arbico Organics. Mix concentrate with water and apply per manufacturer’s instructions.

    Studies show that adult female predatory Neoseiulus fallacis mites can aid in Tetranychidae population reduction.

    When introduced to bamboo, they invade the webbed nests and feed, reproduce, and mature on S. longus.

    A close up highly magnified image of a mite predator on the surface of a leaf.

    Predatory Mites, Neoseiulus fallacis

    Introducing this predator per supplier’s instructions can help to eradicate small-scale infestations in greenhouses and the landscape.

     Predatory Neoseiulus fallacis is available from Arbico Organics.

    Organic Pesticides

    When cultural controls and biological approaches aren’t enough, you can escalate treatment to the next level with:

    • Insecticidal soap containing fatty acid salts.
    • Pyrethrin spray.

    Monterey Insecticidal Soap is a ready-to-use product for indoor and outdoor use.

    A close up of a spray bottle of Monterey Insecticidal Soap isolated on a white background.

    Monterey Insecticidal Soap

    Concentrate and ready-to-use (RTU) Monterey Insecticidal Soap is available from Arbico Organics.

    Spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves once or twice a week as needed.

    And Bonide® Captain Jack’s™ Orchard Spray is a pyrethrin-based product. Pyrethrins are natural pesticides derived from chrysanthemum flowers.

    A close up horizontal image of Bonide Orchard Spray isolated on a white background.

    Bonide Captain Jack’s™ Orchard Spray

    The manufacturer recommends a pre-season, proactive treatment to deter infestation.

    Bonide® Captain Jack’s™ Orchard Spray is available from Arbico Organics.

    Chemical Pesticide Control

    When all else fails, you may resort to a chemical miticide treatment. Please note that these products are toxic and not suitable for indoor use.

    Floramite is the only one registered for use on bamboo spider mites at this time. Its primary targets are adults and immature pests, with lower effectiveness against those in the egg stage.

    Apply it to leaf surfaces and undersides for a potential three to four weeks of residual control, weather permitting.

    Floramite® SC Miticide

    This product is toxic and it may irritate the eyes, digestive system, respiratory tract, and skin. Wear protective eyewear and gloves for safe application. Do not ingest or inhale it.

    Direct contact does not harm the predatory mite, Neosieulus fallacis. And residue on foliage does not harm other beneficial insects.

    Floramite® SC is available from Amazon.

    Note that regardless of whether you choose an organic or chemical treatment, extensive infestations of tall plants are not easily treated with sprays.

    For plants over 10 feet tall, consult a professional.

    Beat the Pests with Best Practices

    If you grow bamboo and notice pale yellow stippling on the foliage and white webbing on the leaf undersides, you may have a spider mite infestation on your hands.

    And having read this article, you are armed with the information you need to take care of it.

    A close up horizontal image of bamboo growing in the garden.

    Going forward, it’s important to remember that healthy plants are the least vulnerable to pests and diseases. Best practices go a long way toward avoiding trouble.

    Start with quality plants from a reputable nursery. Provide organically-rich soil, medium moisture, and a balanced fertilizer without excessive nitrogen.

    Choose part shade locations in the warmest zones. Water early in the morning so the moisture soaks into the ground before the day heats up.

    Proper hydration is essential indoors, too. For houseplants, you can increase the ambient humidity by misting the foliage and/or placing pots on a tray of pebbles with just enough water to cover them.

    And finally, be vigilant. Examine your plants daily for the telltale signs of an infestation and act promptly to eradicate it.

    Do you grow bamboo? Have you dealt with spider mites? Please share your experience with us in the comments section below.

    If you grow bamboo, found this article useful, and want more helpful tips, we recommend the following:

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  • How to Plant and Grow Calibrachoa (Million Bells)

    How to Plant and Grow Calibrachoa (Million Bells)

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    Calibrachoa spp.

    One of my favorite plants for filling a gap in the garden is calibrachoa.

    These are small and colorful and feisty enough to muscle in amongst bigger plants. They are also popular with pollinators such as butterflies and hummingbirds, which is a big plus in my book!

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    I love adding color to my garden, but plants like petunias are a bit too much for me with their huge, gaudy flowers. Calibrachoa does pretty much the same job, but with – I think – a little more finesse.

    What I love most about calibrachoas is their trailing habit. You can put them into the edge of a container, and they will spill over the side.

    Or, you can put them under taller plants and they will sprawl out, covering the ground with lots of little flowers. This helps to keep weeds under control while looking super cute.

    While calibrachoas are easy to grow, you must ensure the conditions are right for them. Here is a simple guide on how to get the best out of these fun little plants.

    What Is Calibrachoa?

    Calibrachoas are also known as Million Bells® or Super Bells®. These are their trademarked names in the horticultural industry. “Million bells” is also often seen in common usage.

    A close up vertical image of pink and yellow Calibrachoa flowers growing in the garden.

    They resemble mini petunias and, like their larger counterparts, originate from Brazil. They’re members of the Solanum family, or the nightshades, the same family as tomatoes and peppers.

    Million bells have small, funnel-shaped flowers that are around half an inch across. The leaves are small, oval-shaped, and sticky, like petunia leaves.

    A horizontal image of pink calibrachoa flowers spilling over the side of a windowbox.

    Calibrachoa has a trailing habit and is often referred to as a “spiller” for its ability to spill over the side of a container or raised bed. It’s a superb addition to pots and hanging baskets and best enjoyed when allowed to trail.

    Although calibrachoa is a short-lived perennial in warm climates such as those of USDA Zones 9 to 11, these plants are grown as annuals in most other places. Unfortunately, they are not cold-tolerant, so they usually need to be discarded at the end of the season. 

    Cultivation and History

    Unlike most garden flowers that have been around for centuries, calibrachoas have only been on the market since the late 1980s.

    But they have been a smash hit ever since, with their popularity soaring since Million Bells® was first sold under the official trademark in the early 1990s.

    A close up horizontal image of pink calibrachoa flowers growing in a hanging basket on a porch.

    In the wild, calibrachoa grows on rocky scree and the edges of cliffs. This means these plants prefer well-drained soil.

    And while they have been selectively bred to cope with a much broader range of conditions, they will still struggle in particularly alkaline garden soils.

    Petunias and calibrachoas were once classified under the same genus, Petunia. Now considered part of a separate genus known as Calibrachoa, there are around 28 species in the wild.

    The cultivated varieties have a much more comprehensive range of colors than petunias and are capable of producing more color combinations as well. Some varieties have double blooms, and compact cultivars are also available.

    Propagation

    Calibrachoa is easy to grow, relatively drought tolerant, and can be purchased at most garden centers from spring onwards.

    The most cost-effective way to buy them is as small plugs which can be raised in small pots in the greenhouse until the risk of frost has passed.

    They are also easy to propagate yourself from seed or cuttings.

    From Seed

    Hybrid varieties of calibrachoa won’t grow true from seed; you must buy them as small plants or take cuttings.

    Also, because Million Bells® is a trademarked plant, you’re not allowed to propagate it. However, true species plants can be grown from seed.

    Sow in early spring or in fall in containers placed in a warm greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill. You will need to protect seedlings from frost.

    Fill a small pot or tray with seed-starting mix and sprinkle your seeds on the surface. Cover lightly with vermiculite; this will help the seeds retain moisture and get some light.

    Water well and let the excess water drain away so the soil doesn’t get waterlogged.

    The seeds take between 10 and 14 days to germinate. They will need to be in a sunny spot and kept moist to ensure healthy seedling growth.

    Once they have one set of seed leaves and a set of true leaves, they are ready to pot up as described below.

    Grow them inside until the risk of frost has passed before hardening off to transplant outdoors.

    From Cuttings

    Taking cuttings from calibrachoa is easy; the only difficulty is selecting the right piece to cut.

    As the name “million bells” suggests, calibrachoa produces many flowers. To take a cutting, you need to find a piece with no flowers so that it can put energy into rooting instead of blooming.

    This is best done in early spring. Take a cutting about six inches long and remove the lower leaves.

    Stand the cutting in water somewhere sunny and give it some fresh water every few days. In a few weeks, roots will form, and you can pot up the cutting.

    From Seedlings/Transplanting

    To transplant calibrachoa seedlings, gently tease each seedling out of the soil while holding onto a leaf, not the stem. Place each seedling into its own small pot filled with potting soil.

    A close up horizontal image of a small pink calibrachoa seedling growing in a black plastic pot.

    Allow seedlings to continue to grow until they are a few inches tall, with several sets of leaves, and then transplant them into their final location in the garden.

    It’s best to harden off plants that have been grown indoors for a period of about a week, to give them time to adjust to outdoor conditions. This isn’t necessary for outdoor nursery-grown plugs.

    Simply choose a protected location out of direct sun and place the plants there for about half an hour before bringing them back inside.

    Add 30 minutes to an hour each day, moving into gradually brighter conditions as well, until they can withstand the environment where you wish to plant them permanently.

    Be sure to cover transplanted roots with free-draining soil without covering the crown. Water in well.

    How to Grow

    Million bells are fast-growing and easy to establish in the right conditions. Once these requirements are met, you can enjoy months of pretty flowers and low-maintenance joy.

    A close up horizontal image of pink Calibrachoa flowers growing en masse in the garden.

    The general rule is that calibrachoa enjoys well-drained soils and full sunshine. Since I like playing fast and loose with rules in my garden, however, it’s my experience that they will grow almost anywhere.

    Of course, they will grow more vigorously in conditions better suited to their preferences. But they won’t complain too much about being in rich, moist soil in partial shade.

    A close up horizontal image of a hanging basket with colorful Calibrachoa (million bells) flowers.

    Growing calibrachoa in pots with drainage holes or hanging planters is a great idea, as it can be easier to ensure the potting mix doesn’t get waterlogged.

    In addition, you can add some horticultural grit to your potting mix to improve drainage.

    Your calibrachoas will like moist but well-drained soils, so water regularly and provide more during hot weather.

    Remember where million bells plants grow in the wild. Okay, you can’t be expected to recreate a South American cliff face in your garden (unless you already have one!), but you can create similar conditions. A spot with plenty of sunshine and good drainage is perfect.

    Calibrachoa thrives in slightly acidic soils, so you may wish to mix standard potting soil with ericaceous compost.

    Or, try this natural and organic potting soil blend for acid-loving plants from Coast of Maine.

    Coast of Maine Potting Soil

    Made of compost, peat moss, aged bark, and lime, it’s easy to work into standard potting mix or your native soil. Find 20-quart bags now on Amazon.

    Providing that they will still get plenty of sunshine, calibrachoas can be grown under taller plants or on the edge of pots or beds.

    Unfortunately, at the end of the season they will be killed by frosts, so you will need to propagate again for next year in most USDA Hardiness Zones.

    A close up horizontal image of a colorful flower garden growing in terra cotta pots.

    Frequent watering causes soil to leach nutrients, so be sure to fertilize regularly with a balanced product for acid-loving plants, applied according to package directions.

    Growing Tips

    • Grow in full sun or partial shade.
    • Calibrachoa grows best in well-drained soils.
    • Grow in pots if your soil doesn’t have good drainage.

    Pruning and Maintenance

    You can deadhead calibrachoas if you want, but they don’t need to be deadheaded to keep the blooms coming – these are considered “self-cleaning.”

    They may need to be chopped back towards the end of the summer if they are getting unruly or looking a little ragged.

    A close up horizontla image of colorful calibrachoa flowers growing en masse in a sunny garden.

    You can cut them back hard, and they will recover. Leave some foliage on the plant to help it bounce back quicker. The plants will need to be cleared away after they have been killed by frost, and replanted next year.

    If you grow your calibrachoa from seed, you can collect seeds for planting the following year.

    Be sure to follow any regulations regarding patented varieties, and remember that hybrids with fertile seed may produce surprising results.

    Allow the flowers to die back and the seed pods to develop. Once the pod has dried fully, you can take the seeds out easily.

    If the seeds are white, they are not ready to harvest yet. Wait until the seeds have turned dark brown or black. Store them in a cool, dry place for next year.

    Cultivars to Select

    There are so many varieties of calibrachoa that it’s difficult to pick favorites here.

    A close up horizontal image of orange million bells flowers growing in the garden.

    However, they all grow in similar conditions, so you won’t have to choose a variety to suit your environment but rather to fit your color scheme.

    So many lovely hybrid options are available under the brand name Superbells® from Proven Winners.

    My favorite is ‘Coral Sun,’ as it goes with almost everything. It’s a salmon pink variety with a yellow center and it pairs well with light foliage plants and orange or pink color schemes.

    A close up horizontal image of purple Calibrachoa (Million Bells) flowers growing en masse.
    Superbells® ‘Blue’

    Superbells® ‘Blue’ is a deep purple variety with a yellow center and it can add a little drama to your containers. It’s certainly an eye-catching color.

    Superbells® ‘Tropical Sunrise’ has yellow and red striped flowers that are beautiful and interesting. This cultivar will do well as a stand-alone plant or it can be paired with other flowers that help accentuate its colors.

    A close up horizontal image of pink and white Calibrachoa flowers growing in a stone pot.
    Superbells® Rising Star™

    Superbells® Rising Star™ is an excellent choice for a big hit of color and interest. It is bright pink with a yellow star-shaped pattern across the petals.

    Also from Proven Winners, Million Bells® ‘Trailing Blue’ is a beautiful pale purple cultivar with a yellow center. It pairs well with many plants and stands out well on its own too.

    Bumble Bee is another lovely series. I’m partial to the ‘Orange’ cultivar, with tangerine-orange blossoms surrounding deep red centers.

    A close up of Bumble Bee 'Orange' calibrachoa flowers pictured on a soft focus background.

    Bumble Bee Orange

    Bundles of four plants are available from Burpee.

    Managing Pests and Disease

    These plants aren’t particularly prone to problems as long as the environment is to their liking.

    Keep up the good work in terms of garden sanitation and maintenance, and keep your eyes peeled for the following:

    Insects

    Like petunias, the main pests that affect calibrachoa are thrips and aphids.

    Sucking sap from leaves and stems, they rarely do much damage, but it can be unsightly. However, they can also transmit diseases to our plants, resulting in far more significant damage.

    Tobacco budworms may also be a problem as they feed on the buds and petals of calibrachoa.

    Aphids

    Aphids are sap suckers, like thrips but larger. They can gather in very large numbers and prefer sucking sap from stems, which causes more significant damage to the plant than leaf damage.

    Calibrachoa can usually cope with aphid infestations, however, providing the numbers aren’t too high.

    Aphids secrete a sticky substance called honeydew; this is just excess sugar from the sap. However, this honeydew can bring black sooty mold.

    Aphids can be washed off plants with a strong jet of water. You will need to check your plants regularly to keep the populations under control.

    Sticky traps and biological controls can also be used if numbers are too high. Many options are available from Arbico Organics.

    Learn more about how to manage aphids in our guide.

    Thrips

    Thrips are small, thin, pale insects roughly the size of the end of a sewing needle. They feed on sap and are often found on calibrachoa.

    You will need to keep checking your plants for them throughout the season. However, they are relatively easy to wash off with a rinse from the garden hose.

    If thrips are a big problem in your garden, you may want to do more to attract beneficial insects such as ladybugs, minute pirate bugs, and lacewings.

    If you have a serious thrips problem, you may want to invest in some biological control options in the form of beneficial nematodes or predatory mites.

    A close up of the packaging of NemAttack beneficial nematodes isolated on a white background.

    NemAttack Beneficial Nematodes

    NemAttack Steinernema feltiae (Sf) beneficial nematodes are available in various package sizes from Arbico Organics.

    A close up square image of highly magnified predatory mites on the surface of a leaf.

    Predatory Mites

    And Arbico Organics has Amblyseius cucumeris mites available as well.

    Tobacco Budworms

    The tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) is a moth caterpillar that can be a serious pest for gardeners.

    These insects will hollow out the buds of your calibrachoa and leave behind feces and molted skins.

    The best defense is a garden filled with plenty of natural predators, so encouraging biodiversity will help control numbers. 

    Spinosad or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) treatments may be effective against these pests. 

    Disease and Physiological Conditions

    Mostly disease free, there are a few potential ailments to be on the lookout for when growing these plants.

    Black Rot

    More commonly known as black rot but sometimes referred to as Thielaviopsis root and stem rot, this disease causes plant growth to be stunted, eventually causing plants to die. 

    Thielaviopsis basicola fungi which cause the disease thrive in moist, alkaline soils. For prevention, ensure that the soil is well-draining and try to keep the pH slightly acidic to neutral.

    Common in the greenhouse industry, always check plugs for signs of good health before bringing them home from the nursery.

    If you spot signs of black rot early, you may wish to take some cuttings from parts that are not yet affected and propagate new plants, discarding the rest.

    Be careful to sanitize containers and use fresh growing medium, as the black rot fungi will stay in the soil.

    Interveinal Chlorosis

    Not really a disease, interveinal chlorosis is a physiological condition caused by an iron deficiency. It will cause the leaves to turn pale yellow, but the veins will remain green.

    Usually, calibrachoa is affected by this when the pH of the soil is too high. The iron is no longer available to these plants if the pH is above 6.2.

    Most fertilizers do not contain as much iron as calibrachoa needs, so consider an application of iron chelates to provide extra iron to your plants.

    Begin by testing the soil’s pH; if it is too high, you can apply sulfur to help to bring it down a little.

    But note that sulfur needs some time to have an effect, so it’s best to use soil that is naturally acidic to start with.

    Best Uses

    Calibrachoas are beautiful plants that grow well in containers, hanging baskets, and on the edges of raised beds.

    A horizontal image of colorful flowers growing in a large planter outside the entrance to a home.

    The range of colors available and their tolerance for various conditions makes them versatile in the garden.

    They are also popular with butterflies and hummingbirds, helping to bring wildlife into your garden.

    Quick Reference Growing Guide

    Plant Type: Tender, short-lived perennial (mostly grown as an annual) Flower / Foliage Color: All colors except true blue/mid-green
    Native to: South America Tolerance: Acidic soil, heat
    Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 Maintenance: Low
    Bloom Time/Season: Spring-fall Soil Type: Rich, loamy
    Exposure: Full sun-part shade Soil pH: 5.5-6.0
    Time to Maturity: 3 months Soil Drainage: Well-draining
    Spacing: 6-12 inches Attracts: Butterflies, hummingbirds
    Planting Depth: Surface sow (seed), same depth as root ball (transplants) Companion Planting: Coleus, geraniums, nemesia, verbena
    Height: 6-12 inches Uses: Containers, hanging baskets, window boxes
    Spread: 12-18 inches Order: Solanales
    Growth Rate: Fast Family: Solanaceae
    Water Needs: Moderate-high Genus: Calibrachoa
    Common Pests and Diseases: Aphids, thrips, tobacco budworms; black rot, interveinal chlorosis Species: Hybrids

    Celebrating Calibrachoa

    By now, I probably don’t need to tell you how fabulous these hard-working little plants are.

    They’re easy to grow, colorful, versatile, and super cute. If you’re a fan of lots of color and flowers like I am, these are the plants for you!

    A close up horizontal image of red, purple, and yellow Calibrachoa (Million Bells) flowers growing in the garden.

    There are so many fantastic varieties of calibrachoa that I’ve yet to try in my garden. I would love to hear about your favorites in the comments below.

    And for more information about growing flowers in your garden, have a read of these guides next:

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    Mike Quinn

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  • Hydroponic Gardening For Beginners * Big Blog of Gardening

    Hydroponic Gardening For Beginners * Big Blog of Gardening

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    CC: Photo by Pragyan Bezbaruah

    By Guest Author Nicole McCray

    Hydroponic gardening, or “Hydroponics”, refers to the practice of growing plants without soil, utilizing only mineral nutrient solutions, water, and/or a soilless growing medium. In hydroponic systems, plants are grown with their roots submerged directly in a nutrient solution or by using perlite, gravel, rockwool, coir (coconut fiber), clay aggregate, or other mediums for soilless cultivation.

    This form of growing food has revolutionized farming as well as the food industry. It is an innovative and efficient way of growing plants, especially in urban environments where space is limited. While it’s true that setting up an indoor hydroponic grow system requires special equipment, one can easily assemble a low-cost and straightforward system without much trouble once you understand the basics of hydroponics. 

    In this article, we dive into how hydroponic gardening works and how you can start growing hydroponic plants.

    What is Hydroponics?

    Hydroponics is a technique to grow plants without soil, using water-based nutrient sources. In a hydroponic setup, plants are grown in a controlled space, such as a greenhouse or any well-lit indoor or outdoor space, and are fed with a nutrient solution that contains all of the essential minerals and nutrients needed for healthy growth. Hydroponics can be used to grow a wide variety of plants, including vegetables, herbs, and ornamental plants, and is often used in urban farming and commercial agriculture. Plants receive optimal nutrients, water, and sunlight to support growth and maximize yield in a well-maintained hydroponic system.

    Reasons To Choose Hydroponic Gardening

    There are many reasons to grow your plants hydroponically; limited space, maximum yield, and faster growth being the most common.

    • Faster growth: In hydroponic systems, plants have immediate access to all the nutrients they need, including oxygen, through a precisely controlled nutrient solution. This allows the plants to grow faster and produce larger yields than soil-grown plants, which may not have access to as many nutrients in perfect balance, especially in compacted, polluted, or depleted soils.
    • Higher Yield: Hydroponic systems have shown higher yield compared to soil-based farming. The image below shows the yield comparison for different crops per acre. 
    crop yields with hydroponics
    CC – by Nirmal Chandra Barman at researchgate.net
    • No Soil Needed: Another benefit of hydroponic gardening is the absence of soil. If you live where the soil is not fertile, is polluted, or have limited outdoor space in an urban area, setting up an indoor hydroponic garden can greatly benefit you.
    • Say No To Weeds:  For many gardeners, weeding can be a tedious, lengthy, and time-consuming task. With hydroponic gardening, there are no weeds (or at least, very few).
    • Fewer Diseases: Hydroponic systems eliminate the need for soil, which is a common host for pests and diseases. 
    • Space Saving: By growing your plants hydroponically, you can grow more in a smaller area. This is particularly beneficial for residents in urban areas with little or no outdoor space who want to grow vegetables, herbs and other crops.
    • Saving Water:  In hydroponic systems, water is circulated and reused instead of being lost to evaporation. This can greatly reduce water usage compared to traditional gardening methods.

    All You Need To Set Up Your First Hydroponic Garden

    rockwool hydroponic medium
    Watercress and herbs growing in rockwool in a hydroponic system.

    Buy on Amazon: Hydroponic supplies

    Choose a suitable location for your hydroponic garden

    Your hydroponic garden can be set up anywhere in your home or even outdoors. The location should be well-lit, ventilated, and away from extreme temperatures.

    Choose a hydroponic system

    With simple and easy-to-afford setups, here are four hydroponics systems that are suitable for beginners: wick system, water culture, ebb and flow, and NFT.

    Wick System

    The Wick system is the simplest of all hydroponic systems, since there are no moving parts or electrical components. However, this method may not be suitable for water-intensive plants such as tomatoes or lettuce, which may consume the nutrient solution faster than the wicks can replenish it. The wick system is best suited for growing herbs, peppers, and microgreens. 

    The plants are placed in a wicking medium like perlite or vermiculite. The container is positioned directly above the water and nutrient reservoir, and a wicking rope or felt strips link the medium to the solution. As the wicking medium becomes dry, the wicking rope or felt strips naturally draw more water and nutrient solution from the reservoir. 

    Suitable plants to grow: Best suited for non-fruiting plants such as lettuce, herbs, etc.

    Water Culture (Lettuce Raft) System

    Water Culture, also known as the lettuce raft system, is another easy hydroponic setup that takes only a short time to set up. In this hydroponic system, plants are placed on a Styrofoam platform that floats atop nutrient-rich water. Roots are submerged in the nutrient solution for constant feeding. 

    Water Culture is a simple and inexpensive hydroponic system, and is often used to grow leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and herbs. The system requires minimal maintenance and can be easily scaled up or down depending on the number of plants being grown.

    One of the benefits of Water Culture/Lettuce Raft is that it provides a high level of oxygenation to the roots, which can promote faster growth and healthier plants. 

    Suitable plants to grow: leafy greens and herbs such as parsley, chives, dill, and basil grow well in the water culture system. Other lightweight plants include hot peppers, cabbage, and bok choy.

    Ebb & Flow System

    The Ebb & Flow system is also known as a flood and drain system. In this setup the plants are grown in a tray or container filled with a growing medium, such as gravel or clay pellets. The container is filled with nutrient-rich water periodically and then drained, creating a cycle of ebb and flow.

    This hydroponic system is usually set up with a water reservoir below the growing tray. A submersible pump is used to pump water from the reservoir into the container, filling it to a level. As the water level rises in the setup, it soaks the roots, and the excess water drains away through an overflow tube. 

    The main advantage of Ebb and Flow systems is that the setup provides plants with access to both water and air, promoting healthy root growth and faster plant growth overall. However, it’s important to monitor the nutrient levels of the water regularly to ensure that plants are getting the proper nutrition they need to thrive. This method is slightly complex to set up, but it is very versatile.

    Suitable plants to grow: Strawberries, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Peppers, Spinach, Beans, Herbs, chilies, etc. 

    NFT (Nutrient Film Technique)

    Another popular and simple hydroponic system for home gardening is the Nutrient Film Technique. It includes a continuous flow of nutrient solution that circulates from a reservoir through a growing tray, where roots are suspended down and absorb nutrients as the solution flows past them. 

    Unlike the Ebb and Flow system, this hydroponic method does not rely on periodic cycles and provides a constant flow of nutrients. The plants are grown in a long, narrow channel or trough, with their roots bathed in the flowing nutrient solution.

    Suitable plants to grow: The nutrient film technique is most effective for fast-growing, shallow-rooted plants like lettuce, spinach, radishes, and herbs.

    Select your plants

    For those new to hydroponic gardening, starting with a live plant rather than growing from seeds is often recommended.  It is advisable to look for seed companies that offer varieties specifically recommended for hydroponic growing. However, if you choose to begin with a seedling, it’s important to thoroughly rinse the soil from the plant’s roots to avoid contamination of your water and nutrient solution. 

    Some considerations when choosing plants for hydroponic systems:

    Growth habit: Plants with compact growth habit tend to work well in hydroponic systems. Examples include leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and kale, and herbs like basil and mint. 

    Nutrient requirements: Choose plants that can thrive with the specific nutrient solution. For example, lettuce and herbs have relatively low nutrient requirements and can do well with a basic nutrient solution, while fruiting plants like tomatoes and cucumbers may require a more complex nutrient solution.

    Select your lighting

    Growing hydroponic plants outdoors during the summer is the easiest option. This is particularly convenient for those who have access to a sunny side patio or open space. Indoor hydroponic systems, on the other hand, require grow lights. Although you may achieve satisfactory results growing plants indoors with abundant sunlight from a south-facing window during winter, artificial lighting is typically necessary. For small-scale hydroponic systems, the most commonly used lighting options are fluorescent bulbs and LED.

    Choose your hydroponic growing medium

    Whether a growing medium is necessary depends on the type of hydroponic system you opt for.

    Types of hydroponic growing mediums include:

    • Coir
    • Perlite
    • Vermiculite
    • Rockwool
    • Clay aggregate
    • Rice hulls
    • Growstones
    • Peat moss
    • Sand
    • Gravel
    • Hydroponic sponges
    hydroponic tomatoes
    Tomatoes growing in a hydroponic system

    Choose a hydroponic nutrient solution

    Selecting a suitable nutrient solution is another important step in setting up your hydroponic garden. Choosing a high-quality solution appropriate for the particular plants you intend to grow is essential. 

    While experienced hydroponic gardeners can create custom nutrient solutions, beginners should purchase a pre-made brand such as General Hydroponics or Advanced Nutrients.

    Set up a support structure

    Setting up a proper support structure is crucial for the success of a hydroponic system. The type of support you need will depend on the hydroponic setup that you’re using. For example, if you’re using a vertical hydroponic system, you’ll need a support structure that can accommodate the weight of the plants and the water.

    For beginners, a wide range of hydroponic kits available in the market can come pre-assembled or with all the necessary components to help you start your hydroponic garden. 

     Other considerations for your hydroponic garden

    There are a few things that your hydroponic system would need maintenance for, including water, insects, and disease.

    Managing water

    Although some hydroponics resources suggest a “set it and forget it” method where the water is not changed, this approach is only appropriate for short-term crops like lettuce, which can be harvested within 6 to 7 weeks.

    In the case of long-term crops such as tomatoes or continuously harvested herbs, changing the water in your hydroponic system is important for promoting plant health and ensuring food safety.

    Insect management

    Although hydroponic systems experience fewer insect problems than soil-based gardening, there is still a possibility of encountering insects during hydroponic growing. The presence of insects will vary based on whether you are growing indoors or outdoors.

    Sanitation is the primary way to manage insects in hydroponics. To prevent insects from infesting your hydroponic system, avoid bringing plants indoors from outside. Before bringing home plants purchased from a garden store or nursery, check closely for insects. 

    Always begin with clean equipment and containers, and sanitize them between plantings. If insect pressure becomes substantial, consider harvesting all plants and starting over to break the insects’ life cycle. Maintaining distance between your hydroponic setup and other houseplants can also help minimize insect problems.

    Disease management

    Although hydroponic systems offer protection against various soil-borne pathogens, the risk of disease is still present. To manage diseases in your hydroponic system, it is important to adopt preventive practices. Use seeds only from healthy plants that have undergone hot-water treatment or a Hydrogen Peroxide soak before planting. Keep all materials, such as containers and tools, clean and sanitized between uses. 

    Maintain a warm temperature of over 65°F in the growing area, especially during germination, and allow for proper ventilation. Follow spacing directions on seed packets, and consider adding a fan to improve ventilation. Regularly check the health of your plants and remove any diseased plants promptly. 

    pH balance

    Maintaining the right pH level is crucial for the health of your plants. It’s important to stay within the specific pH range your plant requires, although most plants thrive in a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. To keep track of your pH levels, use a pH testing kit and adjust the levels by adding pH-Up or pH-Down to your water reservoir as needed.

    Harvest your plants

    Finally, once your plants have reached maturity, it’s time to harvest them. Simply cut off the leaves or fruits as needed and enjoy your fresh, homegrown produce.

    Herbs and leaf lettuce can be harvested multiple times by cutting the mature leaves or stems from the lower part of the plant as needed. The plant can continue to grow after each harvest. Eventually, the growth rate of the plant will slow down. 

    Typically, hydroponic growers harvest 3-5 times from the same plants before starting with new seeds or plants. However, some varieties such as head lettuce are intended to be harvested only once and will not regrow after cutting.

    With a little patience and attention to detail, you can create a thriving hydroponic garden that will provide you with fresh, healthy produce all year round.

    Author bio: Nicole McCray, as a second generation farmer, takes great interest in learning and implementing sustainable and progressive farming methods on her apple farm. She also likes to share her knowledge through writing from time to time. 

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    Guest Author

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  • Stop Peonies From Flopping Over With an Upcycled Chair & Peony Support

    Stop Peonies From Flopping Over With an Upcycled Chair & Peony Support

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    If you don’t have a peony support yet for your peonies, it’s never too late. Since peony blooms get so big, they often weigh down the plant—especially after a rainstorm. Today, I’m sharing some of the best ways to support peonies and my favourite peony chairs. They play double duty as garden art and support!

    Vancouver is a very rainy place. I live in a lush green environment pretty well year-round, but I do get lots of gloomy skies to compensate for it.

    In late spring, peonies erupt all over the city. It seems that every second house has one in the garden, and it’s no wonder; their blooms are one of the biggest and most stunning to arrive in the spring.

    However, when the rain comes down, peonies all across the city start flopping down. They just can’t handle the weight of the water.

    Peonies tend to be dramatic, flopping over just as they reach their peak blooms. To stop this from happening, you need to place peony supports before they get too big.

    I’ll share with you what peony supports are popular with gardeners and, my personal favourite, peony chairs!

    This post will cover…

    peonies wet from a storm but still upright
    These peonies are wet from the rain but have stayed upright due to a peony chair.

    How to Keep Peonies From Flopping Over

    The downside of having such huge, showy blooms is the massive strength you need to keep them up. It’s no wonder that peonies eventually flop over as the blooms get bigger.

    Prevention is always best rather than dealing with a floppy peony. Add a peony support cage or stake right when the peony is just starting to poke through the ground. This allows the peony to grow in the middle naturally, and you won’t have to wrangle them when they’re already large.

    Of course, you can add support after the peonies are established, but it’s a little more work. At this point, it’s easier to use plastic ties, stakes, and twine to tie them up.

    Peonies Flopped Over
    After a rainstorm, the peonies aren’t quite so perky.

    Peony Care

    How you care for your peonies will also help them from flopping over, primarily how you water them. Avoid watering them overhead, as the water will further weigh down the blooms. Instead, aim at the base of the plant and practice deep watering.

    After it rains, you will also want to give your peonies a hand when the blooms are out. Shake the peony head gently to release the water.

    Cut any peonies that have snapped and bring them inside. They’re wonderful cut flowers.

    Red and light pink peony bouquet
    Even when they don’t fall, it’s great to clip some peonies to put in a vase inside.

    The Best Way to Support a Peony

    Some peony supports work better than others. Rather than using ties and stakes, I like full and total supports that completely encircle a peony clump. As I mentioned above, the earlier you place them, the better.

    Some popular options are:

    • Tomato cages (you may have to DIY them so they’re not so tight)
    • Peony hoops
    • Standard plant support hoops

    However, I want to introduce you to my personal favourite way to support peonies…peony chairs!

    peonies before blooming supported by wicker chair
    This peony chair is made from wicker, showing you can really repurpose all kinds of chairs for peony supports.

    Make Your Own Peony Chair

    My neighbourhood is eclectic, and I love that everyone has beautiful, unique gardens and homes. When walking through, peony chairs are quite a common sight to see.

    People will take older chairs, whether patio chairs or indoor ones, and remove the center part. They’re left with just the chair frame they stick in the garden above where the peony will grow.

    Then, the peony grows into the center of the chair, and it acts as a peony support. Instead of flopping over, it fills up the chair.

    The chairs look nice in the garden and act as garden art rather than a drab cage. And when the peony grows and fills in, you barely see the chair anymore.

    Here’s how you can make a peony chair support for yourself.

    peonies after peak bloom supported by wooden green peony chair
    Peony chairs work great for all different sizes of peonies.

    Materials

    Make It!

    Look for a chair to suit this project. In my case, I used a vintage wooden kitchen chair, but any chair that can withstand the outdoors will do.

    Remove the center from the chair. How best to do this really depends on the type of chair you have. It could be as simple as a utility knife and more complex as a saw.

    vintage wooden kitchen chair
    Thrift stores and alleyways are the best places to get old wooden chairs!

    As with all older pieces, check the joints and screws for integrity. Tighten up loose screws or replace them. Fill holes with wood glue or wood filler and reinforce any weak joints.

    applying wood glue to peony support chair
    Even if your joints feel secure, popping a little bit of wood glue helps ensure it’s good to go for your garden.

    I used a rachet strap to keep everything in place while my glue dried.

    rachet straps securing peony support chair
    Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours to completely cure before you begin painting.

    To prepare your chair for painting, sand and wipe down all surfaces. Make sure the chair is completely clean and dry before you begin painting to ensure the paint sticks well.

    Outdoor latex paint protects the wood, and using a paint and primer combination will save you the step of priming the wood first. I chose a sunny yellow colour for my garden!

    painting peony support chair yellow with a paintbrush
    Make sure the paint you use is designed for outdoor use so that it lasts and you aren’t repainting every year,

    After 2-3 coats, let the chair dry completely in a covered area away from direct sunlight.

    Place your peony chair over your peony clump while it’s still small. Leave the chair outside year-round for garden art when the peony is gone. And you won’t ever have to remember to place a peony support in the spring.

    finished yellow peony support chair outside
    Your chair can stay outside year-round if you use outdoor paint.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Supporting Peonies

    How tall should a peony support be?

    Most peony support cages are about 25-35 inches tall. Younger peonies won’t need as tall supports, while older, more established peonies will need bigger supports.

    Do all peonies need support?

    All herbaceous peonies need support, which are the most common ones grown in gardens. Tree peonies usually don’t need support as they have shrub-like growth and woody stems. Itoh peonies are a hybrid of the two and usually don’t need support.

    peonies before blooming supported by peony chair
    When the peony gets big, you can barely see the peony chair anymore.

    I hope you like this little garden hack. I love when garden art can play double duty in the garden. This project is so easy to make unique to you based on the chair you use and how you paint it.

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    Stephanie Rose

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