This Latin Steakhouse Breaks From Tradition

Stephen Sandoval’s latest project arrived in West Loop in early August. Trino, a Latin steakhouse that takes over the old Komo space, has joined the crowded pack of restaurants on Randolph Street. Here’s the scene on a Sunday around 7 p.m.

Stylish yet comfortable, the space is a welcome break from the stiff formality of most modern steakhouses. Art takes center stage in the design, highlighted by a mural above the bar from Raspy Rivera and CoCo Schramel along with other pieces. It’s the kind of place that works just as well for date night or a family dinner, while the bar is great for solo diners — on my visit there was a guest in full White Sox gear who didn’t look out of place. In the rear, a brighter dining room offers a livelier atmosphere, ideal for groups. A Latin soundtrack fills the room, setting the mood without overwhelming conversation.

Those partial to gin and tonics are in luck: The menu has three versions influenced by Mexico, Galicia, and Argentina. The tres raíces section of the menu leans into Latin traditions, from a coffee-rum blend with Guatemalan cold brew to a tequila-and-yerba mate refresher. The spirit-forward lineup cater to stronger tastes with offerings like the tango negro, featuring rye, fernet, and sweet vermouth.

Expect refined renditions of steakhouse staples. Both the shrimp cocktail and beef tartare are exceptional — among the best I’ve had in recent memory. Chef Sandoval is known for tuna tostada, a dish available at his West Town bar Diego and formerly at Sueños, the pop-up he ran inside Soho House a few years ago. Trino’s tostada is similarly impressive, a verdant disc of crab meat, avocado, dill, and Asian pear pistachio. It may seem unnecessary to fill up on bread but the Hawaiian rolls and focaccia fry bread deserve room at the table. For the main event, the steaks, there’s everything from picanha to a dry-aged T-bone. They’re complemented by optional sauces, including classic au poivre made with corn liqueur and chimichurri with pequin peppers. Sandoval is big on potatoes so there are four different preparations — smashed, mashed, fried, and a potato of a day.

New steakhouses seem to appear in Chicago every month, and most feel like replicas of the traditional formula. Trino, however, breaks the mold and delivers something truly exciting. There doesn’t need to be a special occasion to warrant dining here; Trino shines as a relaxed take on the white-tablecloth experience. Prices are in line with other steakhouses: A cocktail, appetizer, steak, and side during my most recent visit totaled $152 with tip.