The Best Dishes Eater Chicago Editors Ate in September

Tavern-style pizza will always be popular in Chicago, but right now, it’s having a serious moment. New contenders seem to pop up every week, all vying for the thin-crust crown, and there’s no shortage of excellent options. In Lincoln Park, the new Italian spot Dimmi Dimmi has quickly become one of the hottest destinations, serving red-sauce classics alongside tavern-style pies. On a recent visit, I went for the tried-and-true sausage pizza — and it did not disappoint. The crust was cracker-thin, among the thinnest I’ve ever had. Each slice was layered with sweet tomato sauce and chunks of pork sausage, finished with parmesan grated at the table. Scoring a table at Dimmi Dimmi isn’t easy, but the payoff is well worth it. — Jeffy Mai, Associate Editor, Eater Midwest

Omakase experiences have exploded in Chicago in recent years, so it’s easy to overlook Old Town newcomer Shō by chef Mari Katsumura. The restaurant goes beyond the standard nigiri and sashimi offerings, serving dishes like milk bread grilled cheese, corn cream croquette, and tonkotsu ramen with iberico ham. Still, the real highlight is the DIY hand rolls: Pristine slices of fish, duck, and wagyu draped across pieces of rice are served with nori, a dropper filled with soy sauce, wasabi, and pickled ginger. Diners are encouraged to assemble their own rolls to taste, turning the meal into a fun, interactive experience that’s far more engaging than simply watching a chef at work. — J.M.

More than a decade after opening, Stephanie Izard’s Girl & the Goat remains one of Chicago’s most beloved restaurants, which made it the perfect setting for an Eater Dinner Party celebrating our 20th birthday. The evening highlighted dishes from across Izard’s restaurant empire, including Girl & the Goat’s sticky glazed pork shank. This family-style dish features crispy, fall-off-the-bone meat encrusted with chile-lime crunch and paired with butternut squash, pickled vegetables, and hoisin and hot mustard mayos. Pile it all into the accompanying flatbread or a lettuce cup for a flawless bite — a fitting way to toast to 20 years with an all-time Eater 38 favorite. — J.M.

Boka Restaurant Group took over as the food and beverage operator of the Chicago Athletic Association earlier this year, and the first new addition to the hotel’s dining lineup arrived in September with Midōsuji. This intimate eight-seat omakase spot led by chef Brian Lockwood offers hot and cold composed dishes, with a focus on seasonality. Much like Daisies’ Overpriced Tomato, Midōsuji’s tomato course on my visit was a brilliant showcase of fresh produce. Served with a tomato tea that captured the fruit’s essence and a tomato gin martini, it was a delicious farewell to summer. — J.M.