Recycling Christmas cards into gift tags is such a quick and easy project. It’s simple, reduces waste, and is a great way to save the thoughtful holiday cards you were lucky enough to receive.
Materials
Make It!
1. Gather all your pretty Christmas cards and recycle any parts with handwritten or personalized sentiments.
2. If you have a tag punch, this next step will take mere minutes. Just position, punch, and ta-da! You have a gift tag. This would also work with round or flower-shaped punches, or if you don’t have any of those, you can use scissors.
I must say that I use my punch far more than I thought I would. I can recycle tissue boxes, packaging, and other decorative card stock into pretty tags that are handy with all the handmade stuff I give away.
3. For some cards, you may be able to get a bunch of tags…
…others may only have one image that will work…
…and with some, you can use the sentiment as long as it fits well in the area.
4. The final step is to punch a hole in the top of each tag. Thread some baker’s twine, garden twine, or ribbon to add it to your gift.
You can now store them away until next year, when you unpack the tags and memories of this holiday season.
More Crafty Christmas Projects
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
This is a fun Halloween project for gardeners! It’s silly and quirky, and it puts a smile on everyone’s face. Turn your Jack-o-Lantern into a Jack-o-PLANTern this year for a fun garden therapy project using these simple DIY instructions.
I love decorating with pumpkins. I get giddy when I start to see them available at the farmer’s markets and grocery store. I applaud those who even go through the effort of growing one themselves to carve and decorate with later.
These jack-o-planterns are a fun gardeners take on the classic jack-o-lantern. You can use up the last of the plants remaining from your summer and fall planters, or get some on discount from the garden centre.
This quick project is also fun to do with the kiddos. Let me show you!
How to Make a Jack-o-Plantern
Making your own is a really simple project. Heading out to a garden centre will be the most time consuming and, might I add, dangerous. You will have to show some restraint if you don’t want to come home with a carload of colourful grasses, kale, and other fall beauties.
For a budget-friendly option, upcycle plants from your summer planters.
Make It!
Cut the top off your pumpkin to make a hole in the top. If it is fairly empty, then you don’t need to spend a bunch of time scooping it out. I removed the seeds and roasted them and left the rest of the junk in there. It will all compost together in the end anyhow.
Use you marker to draw a face on the best side of the pumpkin and use the knife to carve out the holes.
Don’t worry about cleaning your pumpkin guts out completely.
Now add some soil to the bottom of the pumpkin. You can use a container mix soil, although I found that my plants had quite a bit of container soil in them and I didn’t really need to add much more in the way of peat moss or perlite.
Contrary to typical container planting instructions, you really want to pack the soil down at the bottom to create some firm areas where the plants can sit. These planters will not last long enough for the roots to struggle and will have lots of moisture and organic matter from the pumpkin itself.
I also don’t think drainage holes are necessary but add them if you choose.
Pack in the soil tight.
Now for the fun part (it is even more fun than carving a jack-o-lantern)! Plant some ‘hair’ with grasses…
Grasses are the perfect hair, as well as trailing plants.
…and ‘hats’ with cabbage.
Cabbage “hat”
Fill soil around the roots of the plants (remove the plastic pots) and pack it in through the eyes and mouth. Leave space for sedum and ornamental kale as eyes and teeth.
Ornamental kale as eyes.
Use succulents as “teeth”
I tried swapping out the kale and sedum in different jack-o-lantern eyes until I got the look that I liked.
Set your pumpkin out in the cool fall air and water periodically. After Halloween, remove the plants and make a pretty fall planter or use them to pretty up the garden. Compost the whole pumpkin and the soil and you will be well on your way to a greener garden next year.
Jack-o-Plantern FAQ
How long do pumpkin planters last before they begin to rot?
It depends entirely on the weather conditions. The cooler the pumpkin, the longer it will last. If possible, keep it from sitting in the sun. If it’s warm, your pumpkin may last only a few days. Cooler temperatures and it could last a couple of weeks.
How can I make my pumpkin planter last longer?
The most important aspect is picking a good pumpkin. Avoid any with soft spots or visible damage or browning.
Sun will accelerate decomposition, while rain will promote rot. Snow can help preserve the pumpkin if it sticks around, but freezing and then thawing will end up with a pumpkin puddle. Your best bet is to place it in a shady, covered area, and wait for the cool weather to kick in.
I have found that those tips and hacks like adding petroleum jelly or bleach actually don’t work, and means you can’t compost your pumpkin after. Read more about that here.
More Fun Pumpkin Ideas
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
To get those beautiful, spring flowers, you have to put in a little bit of work now. Plan ahead and plant these hardy fall bulbs before the ground freezes. They’ll cozy up for the winter and emerge at the first sign of spring!
I often find myself wandering around my garden in spring, immensely enjoying the brightly coloured blooms popping up everywhere, even through snow-covered, frosty ground. It’s during those times that I reap the benefit of taking the time the previous year to plant hardy fall bulbs that chill out for the winter and delight in the spring.
Bulbs are identified by the season they are planted, not that in which they grow, so with hardy fall bulbs, it is important to think ahead to what the garden will look like in future seasons and find the right space, colour, height and number to create the design you desire.
These are some true hardy bulbs, meant to be planted in the fall to bloom in the spring. They don’t mind the cold and will brighten things up after a long winter.
You can find bulbs at garden centres or hardware stores, as well as online.
USDA zones: 3-8
The butterfly of flowers, the tulip is decorative and delicate, with as much variety in appearance as the gardeners who plant them. Small or tall, early or late blooming, ruffled or smooth, multicoloured or striped, the tulip is the perfect showpiece for almost any garden.
Tulips can be perennials or annuals. Make sure you know which you’re buying!
Crocuses
USDA zones: 3-9
One of the first fall bulbs braving the frozen soil, the crocus offers a taste of what’s to come while still covered in winter’s frost. Generally, crocuses range from purple and yellow, but blues, whites, and oranges can also be found.
The shorties are best in the front of flower beds, but I absolutely love crocuses livening up the ground under a deciduous (as they bloom before the leaves grow), or wildly dotted through a green lawn.
Crocus flowers are one of the first to emerge while it’s still frosty.
Narcissus
USDA zones: 3-8
Bearing the same name as the Greek God who fell in love with his own reflection, the Narcissus is a true symbol of beauty. Many may be familiar with the standard yellow Daffodil (a common English name), but the genus also includes a variety of 50 to 100 frilly gems in yellow, white, orange, and everything in between.
Narcissus have many specialty varieties outside the standard yellow daffodil.
Alliums
USDA zones: 3-9
Alliums are in the same family as the onion, yet the decorative varieties don’t have edible bulbs. What they do have is fascinating blooms with structures that decorate the garden long after the flower has faded. While there are over 750 species, some are wild, some are edible, and a few are absolute showstoppers in a garden. Read more All About Alliums.
Alliums leave behind decorative seed heads.
Anemones
USDA zones: 7-10
If you fondly remember picking buttercups as a child, you’ll adore the grown-up version, Anemones, meaning “daughter of the wind” in Greek. These delicate, low-growing blooms will surely perk up the front border with rich colour and what seems to be an all-knowing eye dramatically darkening the center.
Anemones most often come in jewel tones.
More Bulbs to Love
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Hanging a lavender wreath around the garden could be just the aromatherapy needed to help decompress after a long day, or perhaps it will just make you smile. Regardless, this lavender wreath is a quick weekend project that will leave you calm enough for an afternoon read or a good night’s sleep.
In order to keep your lavender plants neat and tidy, it’s important to prune them. Two prunes per season works best—once at the beginning of summer and then once again in August.
The great thing about pruning back your lavender plants is that you can harvest lavender to use in a myriad of ways! One of my faves is to make it into pretty, fragrant wreaths. The fresh flowers dry on the wreath, and it looks so decorative.
This year, I made a miniature 6″ wreath using “Thumbelina Leigh” English Lavender plants, which are planted in my kitchen garden. The plants are quite small, but they produce more than enough flowers to keep me in lavender all summer long (and then some).
Here’s what you need to know about making your own dried lavender wreath!
One mature lavender plant should be enough to make one small 6-inch wreath.
Harvesting Lavender for Your Wreath
When harvesting lavender, it’s best to pick it at the budding stage, after the flower bugs turn purple but before they open into flowers. The stems will hold the colour for the longest if they are harvested in the bud.
The image below shows the three stages of lavender flowers: budding, flowering, and after flowering. In reality, I try and cut the flowers when they are budding, but in practice, I usually get a mixture of buds and flowers, and a few early bloomers that are starting to die back.
It’s hard to perfect the timing, but it’s even harder to take all that lovely lavender away from the bees! I like to let my lavender flower a bit for the bees to enjoy and then add it to a wreath when it has some buds and some open flowers.
It looks lovely and gives me (and the pollinators) more time to relish it in the garden. The open flowers will eventually fall off, but what’s left behind is still attractive and aromatic.
If you are crafting with lavender at home for personal use, don’t worry too much. Leave that to the lavender farms. No matter when you harvest it, it will make a lovely wreath with a heavenly perfume.
The lavender on the left is at budding stage, the middle blooming, and the right is after blooming.
How to Make a Lavender Wreath
The process for making this lavender wreath is very similar to my other wreaths. Perhaps even simpler because it’s entirely one kind of flower!
Materials
I used a grapevine wreath base, but you can also use a wire or straw base as well.
Make It!
Gather lavender into small bunches and snip the ends to get a nice, neat edge.
I left the leaves on, but you can strip them for a neater look.
Wrap your wire or twine around the stems of one bunch several times tightly.
Secure your bundles individually before attaching them to the wreath form.
Secure the bunch to the form by winding the twine or wire around it a few times and pulling tight (or tying a knot if you’re using twine).
Pro tip: I personally prefer to use wire rather than twine, as it is easier to tighten it later once the lavender bunches have dried and shrunk down a bit. To tighten a dried wreath made with wire, use needle-nose pliers to twist knots in the wire at the back of the wreath and hold the stems in snugly.
Keep your wire on the roll as you attach your bundles to the wreath form.
Leaving the wire on the roll, wind each new bunch onto the form as they are added. Continue adding bunches until you complete the circle.
Alternate which directions your bundles face to get a fuller-looking wreath.
Tuck a final bunch under the first bunch, then cut and secure the wire. Hang the wreath up and enjoy!
While it’s drying, flowers will fall off but NOT the buds.
I’ve also made a dried lavender wreath using this same basic technique on a wire coat hanger bent into a circle for the wreath form.
Make your own wire wreath form out of an old wire coat hanger.
Here is how that looks with dried buds after many years! It will hold its colour for quite a while. As you can see, this one has seen a few seasons and still looks beautiful.
FAQ About Lavender Wreaths
What is the most fragrant lavender?
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is typically revered for its scent, as well as hybrids.
What is the best way to dry lavender?
For this lavender wreath, I recommend using fresh lavender and letting it dry directly on the wreath form. When you work with dried lavender, it will be more brittle and you’re more likely to lose buds while you make the wreath.
The smell of your dried lavender wreath should last you for a few months. If you squeeze the buds, you should release the oils that contain the fragrance.
Commercially grown lavender is dried upside down in large bunches.
Forget a perfectly stacked log cabin and helplessly blowing on your tiny flame. Spend time enjoying your summer nights, not getting frustrated trying to start a fire. These camping fire starters are one of the easiest ways to start a fire, whether that’s out in the woods or in your backyard.
Besides being out in the garden, you’ll also find me out in the woods come summertime. And just like gardening, I didn’t grow up as a camper.
It was always something I wanted to try out, and when I first saw my pop top camper van, it was love at first sight. I knew it would the perfect little home on wheels for kiddo and I. You can see it on my camping blog!
One of the most beloved parts of camping is the nights spent around the campfire under the stars. While I have a propane fire that I often use for ease, you can’t deny the magic that comes from the crackling wood and smell of a real campfire.
Starting a campfire can take some finessing (are you team teepee or log cabin?), and sometimes, no matter how much newspaper and kindling you have, the fire just doesn’t catch.
This is precisely why I like to use wax fire starters. They’re much more reliable and easier to use! Better yet, they don’t require you to have pounds of sawdust or go foraging for witch’s hair lichen to make them.
Here’s how to make fire starters to use for camping or your backyard!
Dried flowers are an easy way to dress up your wax fire starters and are perfect for the summer.
Homemade Camping Fire Starters
These camping fire starters are quite simple to make, especially if you’ve made candles before! While they can be simple and plain, I like to turn these campfire starters into a little bit of a craft project. Because who doesn’t love pretty things?
Equipment
Materials
Get creative with all the different decor items you add. Just make sure they’re fire-safe!
Melt the Wax
When making these wax fire starters, I use standard soy wax. It’s what I use for most of my candle-making projects. Soy burns quite clean and produces less soot. They’re also pretty affordable compared to beeswax.
That being said, you can use just about any wax for this project. Feel free to use the leftover wax from the bottom of old candles to give them a second life.
Melt your wax in a large pot over low heat. If needed, break up your wax into smaller chunks beforehand to help it melt faster.
You can also add a few drops of food colouring to the wax once fully melted if you want it to be a specific colour. I’ve also popped in an old crayon to change the colour.
You can also add fragrance oil for a delicious-smelling campfire! The right scent, like citronella, might even repel mosquitoes.
Melt on low and stir frequently so your wax doesn’t catch fire.
Prepare Your Liners
Line up your paper muffin liners in a muffin tin like you’re about to make a batch of cupcakes. This is the easiest way to make a shape for your DIY campfire starter.
Next, add in your cotton wick. You can use metal wick tabs as well as candle glue dots to hold your wick in place. Just know that the metal tab won’t burn, and you will have to remove this from the ashes when you’re cleaning up your fire.
If you’re okay with a wick that’s a little loosey-goosey rather than straight, it’s easiest to skip the metal wick tabs altogether.
Once you add your decorative elements, they will also help to keep your wicks upright.
Pour Your Wax
Pour your wax directly into the liners, filling them about 2/3 of the way full. To make this step a little easier, you can pour directly from the pot or use a ladle or smaller vessel with a pour spout.
Don’t worry about being exact with how much you pour into each vessel.
Add Your Decorative Elements
These wax fire starts can be as simple as just straight wax. But where’s the fun in that? In my summer themed camping fire starters, I used dried flowers such as hops, calendula, rose, and lavender to make them really pretty.
Don’t place your decorations all the way in. Otherwise, you won’t be able to see them.
Let The Camping Fire Starters Cool
Once you’re satisfied with all your decorative elements, let your wax fire starters completely cool before you remove them from the muffin tin.
And then they’re ready to use! Simply light the wick to ignite your camping fire starter.
These are my more winter or fall-themed wax fire starters.
Make These Wax Fire Starters as Gifts!
I make these wax fire starters year-round. While they’re perfect for camping, you can use them in the summer for backyard fires.
They also work wonderfully indoors during the winter. They’re pretty enough to be on display on the fire mantle or nearby in a stack. For a winter version, you can add different additions, such as pinecones or cinnamon sticks.
Wax fire starters are a wonderful hostess gift. If you know someone who has a wood-burning stove or fireplace in their home, these can be a unique handmade gift for the winter season.
I think these are just the best campfire starters because they’re easy to use and make. And they don’t cost much in materials at all! Let me know if you use these for a summer night under the stars in the comments below.
More Fun Crafty Projects to Try
Wax Camping Fire Starters
Use these simple and inexpensive camping fire starters to easily light up a campfire while out in the woods or in your backyard.
Melt wax in a large pot over low heat. If needed, break up wax into smaller chunks beforehand to lessen melting time.
Add in food colouring or a crayon to dye the wax if wanted.
Line up muffin liners in a muffin tin. Add in the cotton wick, using wick tabs and glue dots if wanted. These help to hold the wick in place, though the wick tab will not burn.
Pour melted wax into the liners until they’re about 2/3 full.
Add in decorative elements, allowing the tops of the decorations to stick out of the wax. Adjust the wick placement if needed.
Allow the wax to cool fully. Light the wick to use your fire starter!
You don’t have to be a handyman to make this swing gate design. After being quoted an obscene amount for my own driveway swing gate, I took matters into my own hands. Here’s how I made my own wood swing gate using existing fence panels and some easy to source hardware.
It’s been a while since I shared one of my DIY building projects. Now that I’m in my new house, I can work on these big projects again and share with you my process.
One of the first things I worked on in my backyard was my back driveway swing gate. I needed it right away as a place to park my trailer.
With not a ton of room in my backyard, it took a little problem solving to come up with a swing gate design that would work for my property. But I’m so happy with how it turned out!
Now, I know that swing gates aren’t necessarily the exciting part of building a backyard garden, but let me geek out for a second and share this swing gate design with you. If you’re in need of something similar, hopefully, this will help you come up with your own innovative swinging driveway gates.
Here’s what I’ll be covering today…
The swing gate opens into the alleyway, allowing me to easily back my trailer into the backyard.
Before the Wood Swing Gate
In my backyard, I have a standard cedar fence. Originally, the entire back of the fence was one 8 ft. panel followed by a gate with a swing pedestrian door and then two more 8 ft. panels.
My goal was to get my trailer in the backyard. Not only would this allow me to store the trailer on my property, but also provide a guest house for visitors. And it also just looks so darn cute in my backyard!
At first, I was thinking of getting some aluminum gates so that I could drive the trailer into the backyard and also open up the backyard directly into the alley to get lots of space.
But I couldn’t believe my eyes when I was quoted $15,000 for installing an aluminum gate. It seemed so ridiculously high!
Next, I looked into having somebody build a big roller gate. Unfortunately, roller gates need quite a lot of room for the size of the gate I needed for it to roll and slide to the sides, so that option was out.
The swing gate seemed like the next best option!
My original fence was cedar, so I used a cedar fence panel to match.
My Swing Gate Design
The first step in designing my swing gate was to remove the existing fence panels. With the help of a friend, we removed two of my fence panels, as well as the center post that was originally holding the two panels together side by side.
I replaced the panels with new 8 ft. by 6 ft. cedar panels. These are just the typical fence panels you can get at most large box hardware stores.
Next, we needed to increase the width of the two panels by securing 2×4 boards on either panel edge so they would sit between the panel and the fence post. With the center post removed, the two panels could now meet in the middle.
You can see the 2×4 secured between the gate panel and the post to increase its width just enough.
Hardware
For my wood swing gate, I attached each panel to the fence using three heavy-duty t-hinges. The hinges are fully extendable, so they open up and press completely flat to the other side of the fence when I want to open up to the alley.
These hinges were crucial in my design, as they allowed me to fully open the gate into the alleyway without taking up additional space in my small backyard.
We also got a gate latch to keep the two gates closed. To install it, we needed to cut out part of the premade fence panels. The latch is mounted to the 2×4 boards that we attached to the panels.
You can also get a latch that you can lock if you want to keep your gate more secure.
Wheels
To complete the DIY driveway gate, we added roller wheels. Now I won’t lie and say that they’re a little bit flimsy, and I would recommend something more substantial if you were creating a similar design.
But I won’t be opening my gate very often, only to let my trailer in and out and on the occasional big yard work day. When I need to open my gate, I’m very careful. It’s certainly a little wobbly upon opening, but it works perfectly fine for what I need.
If you intend to open the gate often, I would invest in high-quality wheels. I just used basic roller wheels.
Where to Buy the Wood Swing Gate Materials
For my wood swing gate, I used the typical standard cedar fence panels (8 ft. wide by 6 ft. tall) that you can purchase at Home Depot or other big-box stores.
If possible, I highly recommend you get them directly from the manufacturers rather than the big box stores because they’re much better quality. Anyone who makes cedar fencing products is a good option.
I ended up getting mine from a box store because I only needed two and it was easier for me to just grab them. But they’ve already started warping. This means I’ll have to replace them sooner rather than later.
Ideally, your gate should last just as long as any other fence panels. So, if you can, get your wood panels from a cedar fence manufacturer rather than a big box store.
You can also stain your wood if you want a specific colour or want to match the colour of your existing fence.
How Much Did My Double Swing Gate Cost?
My double swing gate cost less than $1000 overall. It is a super inexpensive solution that works perfectly for what I needed—way better than that $15,000 quote!
For all the materials, it was about $700, and I had the help of a friend for the installation, so that lowered the labour costs.
The hardware didn’t cost much, and I didn’t need much beyond the hinges, latch, and wheels. The pre-made fence panels were very easy to get and also meant less hands-on building was required.
Overall, I’m very happy with how my DIY driveway gate turned out and it ended up costing was less than I initially thought.
If you make a similar swing gate design, let me know how this works out in the comments below! I’d love to hear how you make your own double swing gate.
After the holidays, don’t just toss your Christmas tree! Instead, try these crafty and fun Christmas tree recycling ideas. Here’s what to do with a Christmas tree to help you immortalize the spirit of the season all year long.
There really is nothing like a fresh tree for Christmas. It smells wonderful and brings some of the outdoors inside for a short while. When Christmas is over, it’s usually time to hack it up, but it seems to me that there is a more fitting end for something so special.
Not one to waste nature’s bounty, I’ve used my tree to make many creative projects over the years and found even more Christmas tree crafts from other creatives to share with you. Here is a list of my favourite crafty Christmas tree recycling projects to give an old tree new life.
This post will cover…
Christmas Tree Crafts and Recycling Projects
Sometimes, it’s hard to get rid of the Christmas tree. There are times when I struggle to pack up the holidays and get rid of the year’s tree.
If the Christmas tree holds lots of sentimental value for you as well, there are plenty of creative ways to recycle the tree when her job is complete indoors. Here are 20 ideas on what to do with a Christmas tree after the holidays.
If you’re looking for things to make with branches from your Christmas tree, this coat rack keeps the branches’ original natural look.
Take some of your more uniquely shaped and strong branches and build your own coat rack. This fun DIY project looks store-bought and is a handy accessory for the front or back door. Read the instructions on creating this branch coat rack with only a few tools!
From one Christmas tree to the next, this reindeer can allow the evergreen to live its next life and continue the holiday spirit. Miniature and adorable, this reindeer uses all sizes of twigs and branches to create a wooden ornament or planter decoration.
I love how versatile these wood-slice flowers are. They could work outside in the garden or on a porch. The flowers would also look great inside as a wall hanging or Christmas decoration. Wood slices are easy to make, and they can be used for a ton of projects.
For those looking for things to make with branches, you can use the thicker branches along with the trunk itself to get all the different sizes for these flowers.
When people ask me what to do with a Christmas tree, I always suggest these ornaments first. Ornaments made from an old Christmas tree could commemorate a special Christmas, such as a baby’s first Christmas or a first Christmas together. They are also a frugal way to get a bunch of ornaments to fill up next year’s tree.
I made these wooden ornaments from a very special tree for Kiddo and me. That Christmas, we went to a Christmas tree farm and cut down our tree ourselves. So we wanted to hold onto it long after the tree was gone!
Many of you probably know I am a huge wreath fan. I have one for pretty much every occasion! I love this simple twig wreath because you could use it any time of the year, and its simplicity makes it an easy addition to most home styles.
These twig flower pots give me major cottage vibes! Oftentimes, pots are more expensive than the flowers inside them. These are a great way to enhance plastic pots without breaking the budget on fancy clay ones from the garden centre.
Once you’ve tried pyrography, you won’t want to stop! This is the next step to doodling: decorating wood with a heated pen that burns designs into it. The result is gorgeous and makes for beautiful coasters, ornaments, or décor.
For these wood slices, I made coasters with botanical-inspired designs. One of the best Christmas tree crafts, they became wonderful personalized gifts for friends and family the following holiday season.
Who knew push pins could look so good? The little ones would work great on a corkboard, and the larger ones would work for hanging up décor and artwork around the house. They are a super quick project and require very few tools.
Why not make your wood stand out all on its own? If you have a section of the wall you are unsure what to do with, wood slices can fit in just about any space. Cut them as big or small as you want and arrange them in any pattern.
This artwork would look great in a cabin or for those who love a rustic style inside the home.
If you are wondering what to do with a Christmas tree and are willing to go big, this one is for you! A branch chandelier is a great way to combine nature with sophistication. Plus, the creator of this chandelier made the whole thing for just $35!
Windchimes have always been one of my favourite additions to the garden. Their soft jingle in the breeze is calming and fun to listen to outdoors. Making one yourself is easy, simply use a branch as the top of the windchime.
I’ve made a few windchimes over the years, including this beaded version.
Using branches from your Christmas tree and a few items foraged from the garden, it is super simple to replicate some popular planter ornaments. After loving some planter decorations in a garden centre but not loving the price tag, I set my sights on making my own!
Take a look at some of the rustic decorations and see if it is something you can do yourself. Wood slices, pinecones, and snowflakes are all easy to make out of wood, using both the trunk and smaller branches of the Christmas tree.
Bringing nature indoors gives you the perfect blend of rustic and chic. I used branches and some good-quality rope to make these swing shelves. It’s a very simple Christmas tree craft, but it looks like a million bucks.
I used these branches topped with stuffed animals to decorate my son’s nursery, but let your imagination go wild!
I hope you have the perfect trunk or branch for this unique idea of what to do with a Christmas tree. Lamps are a wonderful way to light up the garden at night, providing softened light to enjoy the outdoors in the evening. I made this outdoor lamp using a branch as the stand for my lamp.
You don’t even need a frame to create this project. Gather twigs from your tree, then place them together to make your own DIY photo frame. Why not frame a photo from this year’s Christmas?
Simple and effective, branch coasters are a must-have for the coffee table and have remained one of my favourite upcycled Christmas tree crafts over the years. Leave them plain or decorate them…it is totally up to you! Varnish and stain are essential in making these coasters pop out.
Once again, never underestimate the power of wood slices! By circling a mirror with wood slices, it went from a plain hanging to a feature piece in the home. The careful placement of the slices really makes this project stand out.
Don’t be scared to play with wood slices and branches. By careful whittling and cutting, you can create a myriad of shapes and designs to display as art on your wall or elsewhere throughout the home. Creativity is everything!
I go crazy for anything miniature. These twiggy gnomes look adorable in garden pots, indoors or out. They can be used for Christmas, but I think they look great year-round as a pseudo mini garden gnome.
The supplies are small on this one, with just a little bit of paint and twigs from your Christmas tree, making it one of the best things to make with small branches.
A successful garden is one that is full of helpful critters. To encourage bees, ladybugs, and other beneficial bugs to your garden, a bug hotel is a great idea. This bug hotel doubles as artwork for your garden, perfect for hanging on a fence. It’s long been one of my most useful pieces of garden art, made entirely with recycled tree branches.
By now, you should have plenty of ideas on what to do with a Christmas tree. With some creative recycling and crating, your Christmas tree can turn into something new.
Whether you’re carrying it on for next Christmas or turning it into something you can use all year, your tree will still hold some sentimental value of the time spent with family during the holidays. If you created one of my Christmas tree crafts, I would love to see it!
FAQ About Using Christmas Trees
Can you replant a cut Christmas tree without roots?
There is no way to replant a cut Christmas tree. It’s only meant to be enjoyed indoors and then gets composted or repurposed after the holiday season. But they’re still much more sustainable than buying a fake Christmas tree!
If you want to keep and replant a Christmas tree, you’ll need to use a living tree with the root ball still intact. In this case, it would be potted inside and then brought outside after the holiday,
Each December, a few of my dear friends from the neighbourhood get together and make our Christmas wreaths together. That time means more to me than any gift I could get from them. Today I want to share some of the best DIY Christmas wreath ideas I’ve made over the years for you to craft with your loved ones this holiday season.
My favourite thing about the holidays is celebrating traditions with friends and family. When those holiday traditions also include fresh air, plants, crafting, and Prosecco, it becomes a party that I look forward to all year. The annual Christmas wreath-making day is one of the best of the year!
It all started in 2009 when one of my neighbours (a gardener by trade) invited me and some of the women from the block over for “bubbly” and wreath-making. We laughed and chatted and crafted up these enormous wreaths from all the clippings she had collected from winter clean up in her clients’ gardens. The afternoon quickly became an annual event of bonding and garden therapy.
Since 2009 was also the year that I started blogging, I have a photo journal of my wreaths of Christmas past, and today I’m sharing them with you. Soon, you’ll have your very own outdoor real Christmas wreath to call your own!
In this post, we will cover:
17 DIY Christmas Wreath Ideas
Not all real Christmas wreaths are the same! There are many different ways to style a wreath, for indoors and outdoors, and for various styles. Here are a few of mine to spark some inspiration.
1. Pacific Rainforest Christmas Wreath
This wreath celebrates at least 13 different plant varieties that were cut from within a 1 km radius of my home. I used cedar, pine, blue spruce, heather, English ivy, holly, Nandina, Sarcococca, and more to add a ton of texture and colour to the wreath.
This seems to be my go-to style, as you will see, it’s pretty similar to the wreaths from a few of the previous years. You will also notice that I have become a better wreath maker over the years, as this one has a dense and even form with a clear hole in the middle. Both of these characteristics help to make the wreath look intentional and refined. I made sure to have a few sprigs popping out here and there so it still has that homegrown/homemade look that I love.
2. Giant Pink Hydrangea Wreath
One year, I decided to “Go Big or Go Home” with an enormous wreath that rivals those at a 5-star hotel with an opulent entryway.
That being said, I don’t live in a 5-star hotel, and my entryway is pretty average-sized. I hung the wreath (it held!) but it was pretty hard to get past it to get in the house. See how that looked here. The holly snagged everyone that came to visit, oy!
This DIY Christmas wreath can be displayed indoors and last forever. I went for a rustic, neutral wreath made entirely from pinecones. Bleached pinecones, to be exact.
I love how the soft, weathered look of the pinecones pairs with the natural ribbon that I used to attach it to the wall. The whole thing came together to look cozy and festive while remaining simple and clean.
I’m lucky to live by so many magnolia trees. They have the most gorgeous copper brown undersides that contrast with the dark green, shiny leaves.
For this wreath, I used Magnolia Grandiflora leaves and was sure to show off both sides. This created a beautiful contrast that the eye just can’t ignore. I also added incense cedar for fragrance and a little bit of texture variety.
The best part is that this wreath will last for months, taking you through most of fall and winter.
The year I made this wreath, it was unusually cold and snowy. For 7 weeks, it hovered around freezing, so there was a thick layer of ice on the roads and sidewalks. I got Yaktraxs ice cleats to put on my shoes so I could still get around outdoors and enjoy the snow!
I love that when there’s snow on the ground, it makes everything green stand out all the more. This wreath was inspired by all of the gorgeous, varied green hues of the winter season. Snippets of bright green cedar, blue-green spruce, and everything in between come together to celebrate the season.
When I made this DIY Christmas wreath, I couldn’t quite decide on a theme, so I decided to make it with a little bit of everything, and boy am I glad I did! It turned out beautifully, didn’t it?
It contained a lot of traditional holiday elements like holly and pinecones, but the hydrangea flowers added an unexpected yet equally festive vibe.
Here’s a modern Christmas wreath idea to last you beyond the holiday season, I love this aromatherapy wreath. I think it would look gorgeous any time of the year.
In this design, I used incense cedar and eucalyptus to create not only a gorgeous look, but one that is scented and full of therapeutic benefits. It can be hung inside or out, providing a light scent to everyone passing by.
After I started adding hydrangeas to my wreath, I thought, why not make a whole wreath out of just hydrangea blooms?
Every year, I make an effort to dry my hydrangea flowers because I adore their weathered yet vibrant vintage colouring. As long as you handle the wreath with care, the dried flowers will last for as long as you like them. You could use this wreath year after year, inside or out.
Don’t be scared to do all but one kind of foliage. I went for a traditional holly and laurel wreath. Holly really is such a stunning plant, and it grows like crazy here in the Pacific Northwest, so it seemed like a good idea to showcase it in all its glory.
10. Evergreen Wreath
One of the cool things about evergreens is that they’re not all green. They come in lots of different colours and varied textures, making them look great all pulled together in one wreath.
Lots of colour in this wreath comes from the red foliage of new Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica) growth and holly berries (of course).
If you don’t have a ton of evergreen garden clippings, perhaps you have a prolific herb garden! I can’t even begin to tell you how amazing a wreath like this smells inside the home.
You can use it as an outdoor Christmas wreath, but I think it looks just as good indoors any time of the year. The herbs will dry on the wreath and look beautiful, but also allow you to harvest and use the herbs whenever you’re cooking.
12. Red and Green Outdoor Christmas Wreath
Using glossy green leaves like laurel, holly, English ivy, and magnolia made for a long-lasting real Christmas wreath that won’t drop so many needles. I love the ivy flowers just before they are about to form berries.
Ripping out big handfuls will also prevent this invasive plant from spreading, and it does make a long-lasting wreath green. This year, I also went “crazy” and added a burlap bow to the wreath (I think I was probably just filling in a bare spot, but don’t tell anyone that!).
If working with fresh greens doesn’t tickle your fancy, or you’re looking for something long-lasting for the indoors, try this snowball wreath.
It’s a creative spin on the wreath, using a plain grapevine wreath as the frame for a simple winter wonderland inside. Inside, you can decorate with anything you like, such as tiny fake trees, dollhouse items, fairy garden pieces, and other small decorative objects.
14. Blue Hydrangea and Hawthorne Berries
I made this wreath for the first Christmas in my new home. I moved from the street my wreath-making sisters live on to a house 7 blocks away.
It was sad to leave my close friends, but it’s not like I went that far. Even so, it did change things. There have been fewer impromptu drop-bys and garden visits since then.
It’s adorned with hawthorn berries harvested from the tree in front of my old house. The blue hydrangea blooms, Aucuba, and Skimmia came from that street as well.
15. Oval Christmas Wreath
In an effort to make a wreath from scratch, I made my own wreath form from grapevines. I wanted a bit of a different shape, so I made an oval. Many of the greens I’ve used each year can be seen, but you may also notice some Sedum Autumn Joy flowers.
Some years, they look quite good at wreath-making time. It depends on how much rain we get in the fall. The red garage door of my old house was painted to match the Japanese maple I planted in front of the garage.
Let’s take things mini. These mini wreaths are made with real cedar clippings. The best part is you really don’t need much, taking a single bough to make an entire wreath.
I used these wreaths as ornaments and to decorate my presents with. They’re small, versatile, and easy to make.
17. The Wreath That Started It All
My very first homemade wreath! As you can see, it was made up of snippets of all sorts of greenery, which looked festive on the red front door.
I included a teeny bit of red here and there with some holly berries, but you can see that this year, I was feeling pretty green. It’s a bit messier and has some curly willow twigs added for interest. I love the wreath that started it all, and I hope that you do, too.
Basics of Wreathmaking + FAQs
How to make a Christmas wreath
Once you make your own Christmas wreath, you won’t ever go back to buying them during the mad holiday rush. Gather the foliage for your wreath by foraging through your neighbourhood or the woods or purchasing greens from a store or online. Look for a contrast of shapes, colours, and sizes.
Next, find a form for the base of your wreath. You can make your own (like this grapevine wreath or purchase one.
Start bunching your greens. Use one sturdy stem as a base and add a couple of other small branches to it. Wrap the base of the bunch in wire or twine and secure it to your wreath.
Repeat this process until you’ve gone all the way around the wreath. Overlap each bunch over the one before it to make it appear lush and full.
Snip off any branches you dislike and add final touches, such as additional decorations. Hang from a wreath hanger. For more detailed instructions, check out this post with step-by-step instructions and a video tutorial.
How do you add things to a real Christmas wreath?
After you have your wreath made of bunched greens, you can go ahead and add in some extra decorative pieces if you wish. Items can either be wrapped in, poked in, or glued in if necessary. Some great additions include: – Pinecones – Lights (battery operated) – Feathers (natural or coloured) – Sparkly elements (such as ornaments) – Living plants (air plants are a great one) – Gourds (good for a Thanksgiving theme) – Dried berries – Dried flowers – Ribbon or bow
What do you need for a DIY Christmas wreath?
The first item you’ll need for your wreath is the base. I like to use grapevine wreaths or wire wreath forms, depending on the type of wreath I’m creating.
For greens, holly, cotoneaster, pine, cedar, yew, pieris, laurel, fir, boxwood, camellia, magnolia, and cypress will all last long on your wreath. You can also add herbs such as lavender, rosemary, and sage.
To attach your greens to the form, opt for twine (natural) or wire (good for beginners). You may also want to buy a wreath hanger if you plan on hanging it on a door.
How can I make an eco-friendly Christmas wreath?
The more organic materials you use, the better! You can make your own grapevine (or other woods such as willow) wreath as a base and use twine rather than wire for wrapping your greenery around.
Avoid the use of floral foam as it is not compostable. Alternatively, you can use a sturdy wire frame you reuse every Christmas. You can fill wire frames with straw or moss as a base.
Of course, fill the wreath with as many fresh or dried greens as possible and avoid the use of any plastics or non-natural materials that can’t be composted. Ideally, you should be able to chuck the whole wreath in the compost bin at the end of the season if you want to!
Where can you hang a Christmas wreath?
Most often, you’ll find wreaths hanging on a front or back door. You will want to make a wreath the right size for your door length and width. You can also hang them on doors inside, but remember that wreaths don’t last as long inside as they do in the cool air outside.
Other popular places outside include over top of windows and on garden gates. Inside, you can place it over the fireplace mantle, on kitchen cabinets, in the entranceway, or lay it flat as a table centrepiece with candles or other decor in the center.
Which of these DIY Christmas wreath ideas was your favourite? Let me know in the comments!
Making a fresh wreath has quickly become one of my absolute favourite holiday traditions. Using greenery in your garden and neighbourhood, you can create a beautiful and local wreath to decorate your front door with. Here’s how to make a Christmas wreath for your home.
Every year we like to hang a different Christmas wreath on our front door during the holidays. We’ve amassed a collection of wreaths to match the holiday season trends of red berries, Christmas ornaments, peacock feathers, and square-shaped boxwood, but my favourites are most certainly natural, fresh wreaths.
A fresh wreath makes for an individual work of art that smells as good as it looks. Florists and garden centers are wonderful places to find one to suit any style, but if you are feeling adventurous, a homemade wreath made with garden clippings or purchased greens can be most gratifying.
Given the current popularity of lateral space gardening, supplies are available for all sorts of wreath plantings. Evergreen, succulent, moss, and flower wreaths are beautiful micro gardens that will suit almost any style or climate. Care will vary depending on what type of planting you decide on, but many will last for months, if not years, with a couple of weekly squirts of a spray bottle.
Let’s dive into how to make a Christmas wreath, shall we?
I like to use lots of different foliage for tons of texture.
Watch the Wreath Making Video!
Follow along with me as I make one of my fresh wreaths from scratch.
How to Make a Christmas Wreath
My go-to style is wild and local. I forage for all kinds of greenery beyond the traditional holly and pine (though I like those too!) and incorporate lots of colour in my wreath. The best part about learning how to make a Christmas wreath is that you can truly design it in your own style.
Materials
Make It!
Step 1: Gather a variety of foliage, berries, twigs, pinecones, ribbons, and anything else you want to add to your wreath. Some of the evergreen cuttings that work very well are holly, cedar, cotoneaster, pine, pieris, boxwood, laurel, camellia, fir, cypress, and magnolia.
I like to contrast needles with broad leaves and vary the colour, but a wreath made entirely of one type of foliage can be incredibly dramatic. Also, think about tucking in herbs like rosemary, sage, and lavender into the foliage to add another delightful aroma.
The size of your grapevine wreath will determine the size of your finished wreath.
Step 2: Using a grapevine wreath as your base (you can buy one or make your own), start by choosing a firm branch with a stem that is thick enough that it will not bend easily. Add other cuttings of different foliage on top and gather the bunch in your hand. Snip off any long stems.
Save time by making all your small clippings ahead of time.
Step 3: Using the twine, wrap around the bunch and the grapevine wreath together a few times until secured. For the first bunch, tie a knot in the twine to hold it in place, but do not cut the end of the twine.
Wrap around the bunch a few times first, then wrap the bunch to the grapevine wreath.
Step 4: Gather a second bunch of foliage. Lay this bunch, overlapping the twine of the first, securing the first bunch to the wreath. Wrap twine around the base of the new bunch a few times and set it down.
Overlap in different directions for a more natural look.
Continue adding foliage to the wreath by overlapping the previous bunch and securing it with twine until there are no more gaps to fill.
Use different foliage in different bunches to mix things up.
Step 5: Secure the final bunch by gently lifting the foliage from the first bunch and tucking the stems underneath it. Secure with twine and tie off the final bunch with a few knots.
Use your first bunch to hide the twine of your last bunch.
Step 6: Now, take a last look at the wreath. You can tuck in a few more greens to even out the design or add a few embellishments such as pinecones (using florist wire to attach them), berries, ribbons, or even ornaments. Feel free to prune unruly parts as well.
You can always add more and prune afterward.
Step 7: Hang and enjoy!
Your wreath is ready to welcome guests!
FAQ About Making a Christmas Wreath
How long will a fresh wreath last?
I make my wreath in November, and it lasts until March. I live in Vancouver, so it’s pretty rainy and moist outside to keep the wreath hydrated.
Is there anything you can do to make a fresh wreath last longer?
I don’t do anything extra for my wreath, but if you live in a warm and dry climate, you can try misting your wreath daily with water. Before making your wreath, let your clippings sit in water for a few hours to get hydrated before you trim them.
There are also spray preservatives you can use to help keep your wreath hydrated.
Can I keep a fresh wreath indoors?
It will dry out more quickly indoors with the heat, but you can certainly keep it indoors.
Can you make a fresh wreath using yew?
Yew is toxic and can lose its needles really fast. It’s one of the few I recommend skipping in this post.
Can I use wire instead of twine to make a fresh wreath?
I like twine (it’s compostable!), but wire should also work fine. Use whatever you have on hand.
The final word on making a perfect wreath: just have fun with it. Experimenting with different foliage will allow the wreath to become traditional or modern, contained or wild, themed or every day.
A special thanks to the wonderful neighbourhood gals who provided all the foliage, wine, and treats that go along with the annual wreath-making afternoon.
More Ideas for Christmas Decor
How to Make a Christmas Wreath
Make a fresh wreath using greenery from your own garden and neighbourhood.
Gather all of your clippings and separate them into groups. Holly, cedar, pine, fir, cypress, laurel, magnolia, boxwood, camellia, and pieris are all good options.
Choose a firm branch with a thick stem for the base, and add a couple more different foliage on top. Snip any long stems.
Wrap around the base of the bundle a couple of times with the twine before securing it to the grapevine wreath and wrapping the twine around the wreath. Tie a knot to hold it in place. Do not cut the twine.
Repeat the last step, overlapping bundles all the way around the wreath.
Secure the final bunch by gently lifting the first bunch and tucking the stems underneath it. Secure it with the twine and tie it before cutting it.
Hang the wreath and prune any unruly parts. Add decorations if you want or leave it as is.
The prettiest sight to see is the holly that will be on your own front door! Without a doubt, holly is one of the most popular evergreen wreaths and fresh decor used around the holidays. If you want to make a classic and timeless holly wreath for your home, keep reading.
A fresh holly wreath dotted with bright red berries is a traditional way to decorate for Christmas. While I love to play with all sorts of different greens (as well as whites, golds, yellows, blues, and reds) for my holiday decorations, the 20ft tall holly tree that adorns the entrance of my urban garden explodes with berries that beg to be used in festive arrangements.
The leaves may be a bit prickly, but they are worth a few bandages for the final result of this easy-to-make fresh holly wreath.
When you think of holly, you undoubtedly will associate it with Christmas. If you have one on your property, you may also think, “Ouch!” and “Ugh!” the two sentiments I utter when a) getting stabbed by the leaves and b) when I have to clean up the leaves that just won’t compost and pluck out all the volunteers around the garden.
Despite how you feel about the prickles, it’s hard not to appreciate the beauty of the glossy green leaves and perfect red berries.
Here’s what we’ll be covering today.
The bright red and green are a great contrast against a light-coloured door.
Where to Find Holly for Your Wreath
To make this wreath, I took some clippings from the large tree that borders my new garden and the neighbouring laurels. I’m lucky enough to find lots of holly in my area and can also forage for other materials for evergreen wreaths.
Before you get started cutting evergreens from your garden, please have a quick read of my pruning basics article. While I’m all for decorating with fresh cuttings from the garden, it is important to care for the health of your trees and shrubs’ health.
If you can’t find holly, you can feature other striking berries instead. Here are a few of my favourites:
You can also buy holly from a florist or even a local grocery store. Many florists will readily have these supplies available and would be happy to sell you the greenery to make your wreath.
Holly is commonly found in woodland areas.
How to Make a Fresh Holly Wreath
Using the holly, laurel leaves, and a grapevine wreath form, this traditional striking wreath can be made in under 30 minutes. But with minimal materials, it makes a big impact hanging on your front door!
Materials
You can use any wreath base, but I like a natural-looking vine wreath.
Make It!
Organize your clippings ahead of time by trimming them down in advance.
Start your wreath by gathering a bunch of laurel branches. Add one holly branch with lots of berries to the top and trim the bottom of the bunch.
To save time, don’t cut your twine. Just keep wrapping with the bundle.
Wind twine around the base of the bunch and then around the grapevine wreath. Secure the bunch by tying the twine in a knot, but do not cut the end.
Continue by making more bunches like the first one and winding them onto the grapevine wreath with twine.
Alternate the directions of your bundles for a more full and natural-looking wreath.
When you come to the end of the holly wreath, tuck the last bunch under the tops of the leaves of the first bunch, then wrestle with the twine and the pointy leaves until you have that last bunch secured. Tie it in a few knots to ensure that everything stays in place.
Now, have a quick look at the wreath. Are there any unruly bits? Use your pruners to shape the wreath and tame down some wild branches.
Hang it and prune some more to get a better look at what needs extra trimming.
Hang your wreath and have a good look at it. Is there more trimming to be done? Are there more berries needed, or is there a bare spot? Taking time to make these adjustments will make the most refined wreath.
Finally, hang your holly wreath where you are sure to enjoy it most or to create a festive welcome for your guests.
You can add more decorations or leave it as is.
Decorating Ideas for Your Holly Wreath
For my holly wreath, I left it free from decorations as I let the berries take centre stage. That being said, there are lots of ways you can decorate your wreath!
Pinecones always look good on any wreath. You can use floral wire to wrap around the base layer of the pinecones and then secure it in the wreath. Bleached pinecones have a specially unique and festive look.
For something a little different than pinecones, try a magnolia seed head.
Frequently Asked Questions About Holly Wreaths
How do you keep a holly wreath fresh?
If you hang your holly wreath outdoors, it shouldn’t need supplemental water to stay fresh. The cold air is usually enough to keep it looking good.
If you want to hang it inside or live in a warm and dry climate, you can spritz the wreath daily with water. You can also try using a finishing spray after making your wreath, which helps to keep fresh greenery hydrated for longer.
How long will a holly wreath last?
A holly wreath should last at least two weeks indoors and much longer outdoors. I usually compost my evergreen wreaths after Christmas because they’re no longer in season, even though they still look fresh!
How do you make a holly wreath without getting stabbed?
Holly can be very prickly, so making a holly wreath can be a little painful if you get poked. The classic types of holly, like English (Ilex aquifolium) or American (Ilex opaca), can be pretty prickly. You can find less prickly varieties like winterberry (Ilex verticillate) or Burford (Ilex cornuta). Otherwise, wear thick gardening gloves and long sleeves, and you shouldn’t get any painful pokes.
The holly wreath uses fresh laurel leaves and holly berries for a quintessentially Christmas decor piece.
Gather a handful of laurel branches. Add one holly branch with berries to the top.
Wind twine around the base of the bunch, and then secure the bunch to the wreath by wrapping the twine around the grapevine wreath. Secure twine by tying a knot, but do not cut it.
Continue making more bunches and layering them onto the grapevine wreath using the same twine.
At the end, tuck the last bunch under the top leaves of the first bunch. Secure with the twine and tie a few more knots before cutting.
Trim back any unruly parts of the holly wreath with the pruners.
Want to add some whimsy and playfulness to your Christmas decor? Make this Whoville Christmas tree! It’s simpler than you think, and everyone will admire your unique decor. Here’s how to make a Grinch tree for Christmas.
There are many versions of the Dr. Seuss-inspired Grinch tree, from Whoville-esque trees adorned with candy-coloured ornaments to snow-covered, oddly-shaped trees that set the scene outdoors.
Perhaps the most iconic is a tall, skinny evergreen wound up with wire and a heavy ornament dangling from the curved-over top. These represent the trees that Mr. Grinch robbed of ornaments and then shut like an umbrella before tossing in his giant sack.
Quirky looking and cartoonish, a Whoville Christmas tree’s message is that Christmas isn’t about presents, or ornaments, or trees, or even roast beast.
“Maybe Christmas, he thought… doesn’t come from a store. Maybe Christmas, perhaps… means a little bit more.”
Let’s embrace the true spirit of the Grinch!
Add Cheer With a Whoville Christmas Tree
It was Christmas 2011 when I was feeling a little blue during the holidays, and I wasn’t in the mood to celebrate much. By some magic, a Grinch tree entered my life, and Christmas was saved!
You can read all about the Magic of the Grinch tree here. Bonus: you will get to see how much my old dog Meatball resembles the Grinch.
After I published that post, I proceeded to field what seemed like endless emails from people ALL OVER THE WORLD trying to order the Grinch-inspired Christmas tree. I was blown away!
I emailed everyone back to say that I had described in the post how I made it, but they just wanted me to make them one, or fifteen, and in, like, the next two days, and then ship it across the continent.
Good grief!
I considered making them (for a minute), but since I’m more about “teaching someone to fish” than “fishing for them” I planned to write a tutorial on how to make a Grinch tree.
My nine foot Grinch tree is big enough to be the sole Christmas tree of the house.
A Simple DIY Project
That is really the whole point of everything I do here on Garden Therapy: showing how to make some fun garden (or garden-inspired) project that gets people jazzed enough to give it a try. I hope they just may catch the gardening bug, get outside, have fun, and sing the praises of gardening to all, just like those little Whoville kids. I have big dreams.
Anyway, I politely told folks how to make the Grinch-inspired Christmas tree and the ones who made them sent the praises of a) how much fun it was, b) how easy it was, and c) how everyone loved their unique tree. Want to learn how to make one, too? I’ve got you covered!
How to Make a Grinch Tree
Today, I will break down the whole thing, step-by-step. Even better, you won’t be making a regular old Grinch tree. Nope, today you will learn to make one that is nine feet tall!
By the way, if you don’t have the space or just want something a bit smaller, I recommend you check out my post on how to make a tabletop Grinch tree. It’s the perfect way to pack all that holiday whimsy into a tiny package. 😉
For this particular tutorial, however, we are going large! Let’s talk about how to build an impressive 9-foot-tall Whoville Christmas tree!
For extra height, you can prop it up on a small table or chair like I did.
Materials
Make It!
Choose a full cedar shrub that is healthy, stands upright, and is symmetrical. I used a 5′ cedar hedge because that was what was available during the winter months.
If you think ahead and grab one when there are plenty of nurseries open that are full of 8′ hedges, you will have an easier time fashioning it into a Grinch tree.
I added extra boughs of cedar to increase the height of the potted cedar.
Use the wire to attach the green plant stake to one or more strong stems in the center of the hedge. You want the stake to add an extra 3′ in height. (The remaining foot will be the branches that hang over the top.)
Begin adding boughs of cedar to build up the tree at the top, covering the plant stake. Begin with the cedar branches starting from below the stake with the leaves facing upwards, and layer more and more onto the stake to fill in branches all the way up to the top.
Continue adding branches and securing them with the garden wire until you have the rough shape that you want, with at least a foot of cedar draping from the very top of the plant stake. Reserve a few branches for filling in spots once you have bound the hedge.
If the tree is unstable at all, use 1-2 more stakes inserted in the center of the plant and use wire to attach it.
Now, when you have the height and fullness you want, you can begin wrapping the lights around the tree. Start at the bottom and wind miniature white lights around the tree fairly snugly, tucking in floppy branches as you go.
The final look should be a bound, skinny, evergreen tree with a floppy top.
The top should naturally curve due to the weight of the topper but you can use the wire to help curve the top.
Decorate the Grinch Tree
Place the pot on the plant tray and set the whole thing into the burlap sack. Use ribbon to tie the sack at the top.
Wind decor mesh around the tree, then add a large but fairly light ornament to the very top of the tree.
What is a Christmas tree without lights?
At this point, you can really personalize it. The tree is complete as it is, but you can add some of your favourite ornaments as well. I would recommend small ones so as not to overpower the skinny design.
The topper ornament is a must-have to make it a true Grinch tree.
Want a smaller version? Don’t forget to check out how this tabletop Grinch tree turned out!
Frequently Asked Questions About Grinch Trees
How do you turn a Christmas tree into a Grinch tree?
There are two key things you need to do to turn a tree into a Grinch inspired Christmas tree. The first, you need to wrap it with wire to tighten and gather the branches together so they’re all facing upward. You may need to add some extra boughs to bulken it up.
The other key part of a Grinch tree is it’s curved top. The tree should naturally flop with the weight of the topper ornament, but you can also help curve it with the wire.
What colours go on a Grinch tree?
The most common colours to decorate a Grinch tree are red. The top ornament and the ribbon around the tree should be red or green if you want to replicate the Whooville Christmas tree, as well as a burlap sack at the bottom. But decorate it however you want!
More Christmas Ideas:
DIY Grinch Tree {How to Make a Whoville Christmas Tree}
This 9-foot tall Grinch tree is sure to add whimsey and fun to your Christmas decor this year.
Place your pot into the burlap sack and tie it with ribbon.
Use the wire to attach the green plant stake to one or more strong stems in the center of the hedge. You want to add the extra height to the tree to make it 9-feet tall. The amount you need to add depends on how tall your tree is.
Begin adding boughs of cedar to build up the tree at the top. Make sure to cover the plant stake. Begin with the cedar branches starting from below the stake with the leaves facing upwards, and layer more and more onto the stake to fill in branches all the way up to the top.
Continue adding branches secured with the garden wire until you have the rough shape that you want. To get that classic Whoville Christmas tree look, make sure to leave at least a foot of cedar draping from the very top of the plant stake.
Fill in any areas that look sparse with more branches if necessary.
Wrap lights around the tree, starting at the bottom. Make sure to tuck them into the greenery.
Next, wrap the deco mesh ribbon around the tree. Red will be the most classic color to use.
Add a large ornament to the top of the tree, then smaller ones within the branches if you like.
A bulb lawn is one of the most beautiful ways to usher in the spring. A wave of colourful flowers erupts across your lawn, creating a welcome display for your enjoyment and the pollinators after a cold winter. Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
It’s my first fall in my new house, and while I’ve been here for a couple of months now, I still feel like I’m just settling in. I’ve barely scratched the surface of the garden.
So, when flowerbulbs.com offered to send me 1500 bulbs to create a front yard pollinator garden, I leapt at the opportunity.
My front yard space is small, about 600 sq. ft., and very patchy. It currently consists of moss, buttercup, and a bit of turf. And after years of poor drainage and neglect, it’s not level. So you could say that a bulb lawn makeover is very much needed!
Be sure to read all the way to the end because I have a great bulb giveaway for two lucky readers as well!
Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.
Mixing your bulbs together creates a more natural look.
Sponsored Content: Thank you to flowerbulbs.com for sponsoring this post and providing the epic bulb giveaway. Flowerbulbs.com is an amazing resource to help you learn about all the different kinds of bulbs and how to plant them.Be sure to check them out!
What is a Bulb Lawn?
Bulb lawns are exactly what they sound like! You plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall in your lawn, and come early spring, they begin to bloom across your grass. It’s a practice that began in Europe hundreds of years ago and is popular in many botanical gardens today.
Most gardeners choose naturalizing bulbs. These are bulbs that you plant once, and then they return and multiply over the years, such as snowdrops, crocus, and daffodils. Over time, it will slowly cover your lawn into a spectacular display of spring colour.
Front bulb gardens provide many ecological and aesthetic benefits. No matter the type of lawn, it’s easy to start planting bulbs to spruce up an otherwise empty space.
The bulbs will provide early-season pollen and nectar for pollinators when little else is blooming. Spring-flowering bulbs are some of the first flowers to awaken, providing lots of colour and texture after a sometimes gloomy winter.
Bulbs in lawns are incredibly low maintenance. After planting, you only need to water them once to help them establish themselves. You don’t mow in the spring, as the flowers bloom. Then, the naturalizing bulbs return on their own, slowly multiplying every following season.
Physically, I have not been doing well lately. I’ve had a flare-up of my disability that has made daily tasks incredibly challenging. So, while I was excited to get these bulbs and plant a front yard pollinator garden, I honestly didn’t know how I would get the job done.
I know many people who read Garden Therapy also struggle with physical and other restraints that keep them from being able to garden. So, it was important to me that I tackle this project and get my own garden therapy while also sharing how I made it easier on myself living through this current flare-up that has really taken me down.
So, first and foremost, I asked for help. I started by calling in some local landscaping friends to see if somebody could come and help me with the planting. And they came through!
Me with my power planter. Power planters are good for planting multiple bulbs.
Preparing for Your Bulb Garden
Before you begin planting, you’ll want to mow your lawn ahead of time so it’s easy to dig into and map out a design.
If you haven’t already grabbed your bulbs, then make sure you get them ASAP before the frost comes and the ground freezes.
For a front yard pollinator garden, make sure to include single flower blooms. Double flower blooms are beautiful, and you can certainly plant some, but pollinators need single flowers.
Here is the mixture that I ended up planting:
100 Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops”
200 Anemone “Blanda”
50 Chionodoxa luciliae “Alba”
100 Dwarf iris “Alida”
100 Dwarf iris “J.S.Dyt”
100 Dwarf iris “Louise”
100 Snowdrops “Floreo Plena”
400 Muscari
200 Crocus Large Mix
200 Tulips
Make Your Design
My front yard is a small south-facing space. In front, there are two large trees on the city property, plus a 3-foot tall fence surrounding the yard.
With my friends, we chatted through some design ideas. I originally wanted to do a muscari river through the centre of the lawn and then plant a mixture of low-growing bulbs to naturalize on either side of the river.
But there were two big challenges with this plan. First, I thought it would look slightly contrived in the front yard. Two gates come into the yard; one gate has a pathway that goes into the backyard, while the other has a pathway to the front door. With a muscari river between those two paths, it wouldn’t have the natural flow I was looking for.
The second challenge was that lots of digging would be involved to get 1500 bulbs in the front yard. In my previous stinzen planting project at my rental house, we used a power planter to drill holes for all the bulbs individually.
If I did that for this project, I would have 1500 holes in the yard, and that just didn’t seem like the right strategy for such a small space.
So here’s what we did…
Use a large container to mix up your bulbs easily.
Mixed Bulb Pockets
To achieve the naturalized look I wanted, we decided to do little pockets of mixed bulbs throughout the lawn. We mixed all the bulbs together to create a much more natural appearance.
When planning out your design, you want to ensure you can still access the garden if you need to. You also want to place them in a low-traffic area so the bulbs aren’t disturbed when blooming.
For my pocket design, you can still walk across the lawn between all the bulbs that will grow like lily pads popping up in the spring.
This design also allowed me to level the lawn. We found small natural depressions in the lawn (like the heart shape below) and lifted the soil. Once we placed the bulbs, we could put chunks of the lawn on top. This helped to lift the area so that the lawn is now semi-graded.
When planting a bulb garden, you want to try to place it in full sun. While the bulbs can grow in partial shade, they thrive with lots of spring sunlight.
This natural heart shape was a depression in the lawn. Digging it up will help level my lawn. I added more soil to this sunken area.
Tulip Border
In my bub garden design, I also included a tulip border. For this, I mixed 4 varieties of tulips in a wave along the fence. You can use spray paint or a hose to help you map out a design. We just went freehand and dug it up. We will see how it looks in the spring!
Here are the varieties of tulips I planted:
“Couleur Cardinal”
“Purple Prince”
“Continental”
“Sunny Prince”
Plant Your Bulbs
Finally, we were ready to plant! With the tulips separate, I mixed together the 1300 remaining bulbs and dug about 20 different-shaped pockets.
With so many bulbs to plant, we didn’t worry about careful placement. We dug down about 6 inches deep into the soil.
I then tossed in a couple of handfuls of bulbs, so it looked like they would fill the space quite nicely. Then, we turned them all around so that the roots were pointed down and the tips up while laughing and shouting, “Bums down!”
Then, we backfilled with the soil and placed the turf back on top. Of course, the turf was falling apart due to the heavy percentage of moss and weeds. Not enough turf roots were there to hold the structure together, so it became a mishmash of placing as many of the puzzle pieces back in as possible and topping the rest off with new soil and seed.
Yes, the lawn won’t look the prettiest after the initial bulb planting, but it does bounce back quickly. I started my project a bit later than I would want the lawn to recover well before winter, but I’m still confident it will look fabulous in the spring!
Make sure your bulbs are planted pointy end facing up and roots down.
A Note on Depth
As you can see, I didn’t fuss too much about the planting depth for all the different bulbs. But typically, you want to plant the bulbs 3X as deep as they are tall.
For instance, daffodil bulbs are 2 inches tall, so you’d plant them 6 inches deep. Meanwhile, you can have really small bulbs that only get planted 2 inches deep.
If you don’t have as many bulbs as me, you can be a little more careful about your planting depths. You can also group the bulbs based on their size when mixing them. This way, you can dig deeper depending on what mix you’re currently planting.
The tulip bulbs were planted in the back border as a colourful spring display.
Repairing the Lawn
After planting, my lawn looked a little patchy, but truly, if you hadn’t seen us plant all those bulbs, you would never have known. I watered my lawn to help settle everything and help establish the bulbs.
Since my lawn needed some TLC in the first place, the next step will be to top the entire lawn with more topsoil and then reseed it. I’ll be seeding my lawn with a mixture of microclover and turf grasses that do well in the shade—even though my lawn is south-facing, it does get a lot of shade because of the structures around it.
Ozzie oversaw all of our design plans and planting 😉
My Methodology
While planting my bulb garden, a friend visited for the weekend. While she doesn’t identify as a gardener, she did agree to help me. Her previous experience with bulbs was buying a package from the garden centre, bringing it home, and letting a couple of years pass. She still has that package, although I broke the news that they were now compost (but most likely dust). She had the best intentions but became overwhelmed by the spacing and location and wasn’t sure how to do it.
When we started planting, she was quite surprised that we dug holes and tossed in our bulbs willy-nilly before adjusting their direction. We didn’t add any bonemeal; instead, we just topped them with soil. I explained that this freestyle planting comes with some experience.
Ok, so I just wrote that I didn’t add any bonemeal. Let me explain. Generally, home gardens have enough phosphorous in our soil, so adding bonemeal isn’t necessary.
Bulb fertilizers are often labelled as ‘bloom boosters’ because the high phosphorous levels encourage plant flowering. If you notice that your container plants aren’t flowering as much as they should be, adding additional phosphorous could be the key to more blooms.
That being said, the ground soil in a home garden probably has adequate amounts of phosphorous. Adding more than the plants need can run off into water systems, creating environmental issues.
Even more concerning is that phosphorous is a finite resource, and humans are consuming it for agricultural purposes at alarming rates. While farmed land may need phosphorous to be replenished, in the home garden, it is only needed when a soil test shows a deficiency or when fertilizing plants in potting soil.
My tulip border along the front fence.
Growing a Natural Lawn
I was very surprised when I lifted the grass to see how healthy the soil was below. It was a beautiful surprise full of microorganisms and some organic matter. It was light and fluffy, dark black, and well-hydrated. What a treat!
Immediately, I was encouraged that this would make a beautiful garden because the soil was so healthy.
Since I garden from a permaculture standpoint, I try to make all my projects regenerative. Topping the soil would encourage plants to grow besides turf and bulbs. Those wild plants are great for the soil, improving the nutrient mixture to help the bulbs flower.
Over the years, I’ll keep adding some nice compost and continue to support the soil health with the addition of microclovers and turf grasses. This will allow a mixture of wild plants, like buttercup, to grow and flower, providing even more pollinator food.
Then, the bulbs in the lawn will become more like a meadow space and naturalize in a way that looks effortless, all while helping out local wildlife.
Bulb Garden Giveaway!
I’ve partnered with flowerbulbs.com to give away a stunning spring flowering bulb mixture perfect for creating a bulb lawn or garden. Not one but TWO lucky garden therapy winners will win $100 worth of bulbs for planting.
To enter the contest, leave a comment down below letting me know which bulbs are your favourite to grow. This contest is open until November 23, 2023, when I will use a random number generator to select the winners. This contest is only open to US residents.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
FAQ About Bulb Gardens
When should I plant my bulb lawn?
You want to plant your bulb garden before the first frost and the ground freezes. Here are some recommendations for zones from flowerbulbs.com. Zone 4-5 — September to October Zone 6-7 — October to early November Zone 8-9 — November to early December Zone 10+ — late December to early January
How do I mow a bulb lawn?
In the spring, do not mow. Wait as long as you can until your foliage turns yellow. Then, you can mow normally. You want to avoid mowing until the plant dies, as it needs to gather energy to store in the bulb so it returns the following year. After blooming, your bulb lawn will look like a regular lawn.
How do I stop squirrels from digging up my bulbs?
Squirrels love dirt and loose soil. So, after planting bulbs in lawn, you’ll notice that squirrels might come flocking to your garden. You can peg chicken wire down over your lawn for the first few weeks until the grass appears normal again. You can also sprinkle grass seed over the top to help encourage the grass to fill back in quickly.
Planting at the right depth also means the squirrels might not dig that deep. I have a hard time picturing squirrels digging down 6 inches!
Watch this video to see how I handled the squirrels in my bulb garden last year.
