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Tag: watering

  • Fall Gardening: Can You Stop Watering Now? (And 5 Other Burning Questions) – Gardenista

    Ah, fall: when cozy sweaters come out, the air crisps up, a kaleidoscope of colorful leaves decorate sidewalks, and it’s a struggle to decide which pumpkin-flavored drink to buy at the local coffee shop. In the garden, grasses turn tawny, flowers transform to seed heads, and it’s a struggle (as you sip your pumpkin-spiced latte) to decide what needs to be done and how to prepare plants for the coming sleepy, cold months.

    You’re on your own picking your hot beverage of choice, but we can help you figure out your fall gardening chores. Below, six burning questions you may have about autumn gardening.

    Featured photograph by Christin Geall, from Flower Design: A Week at the Cambo Estate in Scotland.

    Do you still need to weed?

    Above: Photograph by Justine Hand, from Landscaping 101: A Garden Arsenal to Fight Weeds.

    Yes. (And sorry!) We may not always see weeds, but trust me, they’re there, quietly resting below the soil surface, waiting for us (or creatures) to disturb the soil so that they can get some sun and a drink of water—and then KABOOM! Total weed invasion. Fall is definitely a time when weed seeds are storing food for winter, or they are exploding as they dry up. My advice: don’t procrastinate. The best way to get ahead of a spring weed invasion is to get a hold of the situation in the fall. And the most important thing you can do right now is prevent weeds from going to seed. How? Remove the weeds you see. And to ensure a successful eradication, determine what weeds you have and how they reproduce. Do they spread by seed, by rhizome, or re-sprout with a deep taproot? Once you know your culprits and how they make more of themselves, then you can learn how to successfully attack them. (See Weed Wisdom: What 10 Common Weeds Are Trying to Tell You.)

    Here’s an idea to prevent weeds from taking over your world: lay down a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to bury newly dropped weed seeds and prevent light from reaching them. For large weedy areas, consider the sheet mulching method where you lay down flattened cardboard or newspaper first and then pile a thick layer of mulch on top. For individual weeds, consider pouring undiluted vinegar directly on the weed. Whatever method you do choose, manage weeds as naturally and as non toxic as possible. (See Landscaping 101: Pros and Cons of Homemade Weed Killer.)

    When can you stop watering plants?

    Above: In the Cranford Rose Garden at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Photograph by Marie Viljoen.

    Bottom line: don’t stop watering yet, because plants still need water—just not as much as in the hot summer. After plants spend the summer devoting time and energy into leaf and flower growth, they move on to fruit and seed production, and then they take advantage of the fall season to get busy growing their roots. This means if we have a non-rainy fall, plant roots can dehydrate and plants become stressed; they will need continued drinks of water to keep them healthy. This is especially true for sunnier south-facing areas, and not so much for north-facing areas where the moisture will stay longer. Also, remember that plants under solid eaves don’t benefit from rainfall and can remain dry as a bone so you will need to hand water these areas.

    Pro Tip: Newly installed or transplanted plants definitely need regular watering through the fall.

    Our editor Meredith uses a galvanized watering can to thoroughly soak the plants in her window boxes in San Francisco. Photograph by Liesa Johannssen for Gardenista, from Container Gardens: 5 Tips for a Perfect Window Box.
    Above: Our editor Meredith uses a galvanized watering can to thoroughly soak the plants in her window boxes in San Francisco. Photograph by Liesa Johannssen for Gardenista, from Container Gardens: 5 Tips for a Perfect Window Box.

    When winter finally creeps in, it also brings along its own set of dry, damaging conditions. When plants are packed under snow and ice, roots still get thirsty. The solution is to super hydrate plant roots before winter, and before the ground freezes, this means giving your plants long, deep soaks of water. When temperatures start to drop below 40 degrees F, you can wind down the water. If you’re in a warmer climate, the soil may not freeze at all, and if it doesn’t rain for a few weeks, your plants will still need a weekly dose of H2O.

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  • 10 Plant Partnerships That Will Triple Your Harvest (Gardeners Shocked!) –

    I learned that one simple gardening trick can boost harvests quickly while cutting pest numbers almost in half. The trick is companion planting: nature’s way of helping plants work better together.

    After many seasons of trial and error, this method turned my weak veggie beds into a healthy, busy garden in no time.

    No need to stress about fancy layouts. These 10 plant partners work well with little effort. Ready to match plants the easy way? Let’s go.

    Plant Partners That Work Wonders

    1. Tomatoes & Basil: A Reliable Match

    This pair isn’t just delicious on the plate. Basil’s strong smell helps keep away pests like aphids and hornworms that usually bother tomatoes.

    Growing them together can even make tomatoes taste better. (Seriously. My tomatoes tasted so much better once I planted basil beside them.)

    2. Carrots & Onions: A Simple Defense

    Carrot flies can wipe out a crop fast, but onions help block them. In return, carrots help loosen the soil for onion bulbs. They just work well together.

    3. Corn & Beans: The Old “Three Sisters” Duo

    This old planting method makes sense. Beans add nitrogen to the soil, which corn needs. The corn stalks give the beans something to climb. It’s a natural setup that works smoothly.

    4. Cucumbers & Nasturtiums: The Decoy

    Nasturtiums act like bait, pulling pests like aphids and beetles away from cucumbers. They also have pretty flowers that you can eat with a pepper-like taste.

    5. Peppers & Marigolds: Root Protectors

    A common mistake is planting peppers without help. Marigold roots release compounds that chase away nematodes that damage pepper roots.

    Some studies show that marigolds can reduce nematode populations by up to 90%. Their blooms look nice, too.

    6. Lettuce & Radishes: Soil Helpers

    Radishes break up compacted soil, allowing lettuce roots to grow deeper. This makes lettuce stronger on hot and dry days. Radishes also grow fast, so you get an early harvest while waiting for your lettuce.

    7. Squash & Borage: Bee Magnets

    Squash needs more bees, and borage attracts them. These bright blue flowers pull in loads of pollinators and help keep pests away from squash. Knowing this pairing gives you better fruit.

    8. Potatoes & Horseradish: A Surprise Team

    This pair sounds odd, but it works. Horseradish contains natural compounds that help keep potatoes strong and beetles away. Plant horseradish at the corners of the potato bed for protection.

    9. Strawberries & Thyme: Berry Guards

    Slugs love strawberries, but thyme helps stop them with its strong scent. Thyme also acts as ground cover, keeping berries off the soil and reducing fungal problems. Simple and smart.

    10. Cabbage & Dill: Friendly Bug Attractors

    Dill doesn’t chase pests. Instead, it brings in helpful insects like ladybugs and lacewings that eat cabbage worms. It’s like having tiny guards watching over your cabbages.

    Why Companion Planting Works

    Companion planting is more than old advice. It’s backed by how plants interact. They use scents and root signals to communicate with one another. The results can be big:

    • Less pest damage, fewer sprays
    • Better pollination
    • Grow more in small spaces
    • Better soil use
    • Shade where needed

    When you match plants well, everything grows better together.

    How To Start

    Try just two or three partner groups this season. Watch how plant health, pest problems, and harvest amounts change.

    Remember: it’s not just about putting plants next to each other. It’s about letting them support each other. Keep them close but not crowded; about 12–18 inches apart works for most pairs.

    With the right partners, your garden becomes a group that works together instead of single plants growing alone. That’s the goal for most of us anyway.

    Gary Antosh

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  • Design a Dry River Bed and Solve Your Drainage Problem – Garden Therapy

    Design a Dry River Bed and Solve Your Drainage Problem – Garden Therapy

    At my new house, my front lawn was all mud and pools of uneven, soggy ground. Rather than put all that water into the city drains, I redirected it to filter through the soil and water the surrounding plants. Design your own dry river bed, and you just might make your own drainage problems disappear…poof!

    In my front yard, I planted a beautiful, meadow-like wildflower lawn. So far, it’s been the star of the block, as everyone stops and admires it.

    For the wildflower lawn, I used the West Coast Seed Alternative Lawn Mix Wildflowers. I didn’t realize just how many wildflowers it would produce!

    Because it has turf grasses, I thought there would be only a few flowers among the grass. I thought I would be able to mow it and use it like any other lawn.

    But that hasn’t been the case at all. My expectations of the wildflower lawn were just blown out of the water.

    While beautiful, and I wouldn’t change a thing, it meant that walking through our garden wasn’t going to be possible. To get to the backyard, we would go down the sidewalk, through a gate, down the street, and through another gate.

    Complicated right?

    I knew I needed a solution, and rather than build a simple pathway, I decided to solve another problem with my garden: the drainage.

    Here’s how I made my dry river and what to know before you build your own.

    wildflower front lawnwildflower front lawn
    My gorgeous wildflower front lawn before the dry river installation.

    What is a Dry River?

    Dry rivers are an ornamental solution to drainage problems in the garden. They create a water catchment space where water from your home can filter back into the soil. The surrounding plants can then reach down with their deeper roots and hydrate. It’s a win-win!

    Dry river beds are made with river stones and mimic the look of a wild river. The result is a very natural-looking rock element in your garden. It can blend in or become a feature in itself, being both aesthetic and functional.

    dry river installationdry river installation
    Dry rivers can feature many different kinds of rock, but I went with the classic rounded river rock.

    Picking a Location for Your Dry River Bed

    When I first moved into my house, it was evident that the front yard had a drainage problem. It was muddy and puddly and neglected.

    I was initially inspired to put in a dry river because of the way the eavestroughs were designed. The gutters that collect off the roof were a little broken and poorly maintained and drained directly into the soil or went into underground pipes that took the water away from the house.

    The yard, as a result has a very high water table. This means that in the summer drought months, the plants do quite well because they get enough supplemental water. I haven’t had to provide ANY supplemental water for my wildflower lawn so far.

    But it also holds lots of water when things are cooler, and anything that doesn’t like wet feet won’t do well. The grass didn’t do well at all prior to the wildflower lawn, as it was just too damp in the winter months.

    front yard before with turf grassfront yard before with turf grass
    My front yard before its extreme makeover.
    wildflower lawn early stageswildflower lawn early stages
    The early stages of my wildflower lawn, when it was still treadable.

    Some of the water is redirected into the city runoff and then piped out to the ocean. This isn’t ideal, either. It doesn’t allow any of the rain that would naturally fall there to return to the soil. We should use the existing water on the land to support the plants.

    This left me in a tricky spot, as I didn’t want to put any kind of drainage too close to the house—this can be problematic and cause rot on the house’s frame.

    So I redirected the water back into the land, where it could be properly and efficiently drained. I moved the water to go into about the middle of the lawn where it would be away from the house but still feed the surrounding plants.

    eavestrough with downspout eavestrough with downspout
    First, I needed to get the water flowing away from the house and into the soil with longer downspouts.

    How to Make a Dry River Bed for Drainage

    The first thing I did was redirect the eavestroughs to the middle of the wildflower lawn. This did mean I had to do some digging up, so more on that later!

    digging up wildflower lawn with wheelbarrowdigging up wildflower lawn with wheelbarrow
    Yes, digging up all these flowers did hurt my soul a bit.

    I chose a general shape for my dry river, giving it curves and a naturalistic shape to weave through my lawn as a pathway, digging the flowers out as I went.

    shaping a dry river bedshaping a dry river bed
    Since I wanted mine to be a pathway as well, I had it go all the way to the gate.

    I then put a layer of landscape fabric over top of the curve I created. Depending on how much water and drainage you need, you can dig deeper and add a base layer of gravel to help hold onto excess rainwater. See an example of that kind of dry river bed in this post.

    adding landscape fabric to dry riveradding landscape fabric to dry river
    Make sure to use landscape fabric, not plastic. It needs to allow water to filter through.

    For me, I just topped off my landscape fabric with river stones in two different sizes. I have smaller ones that are about 1-2 inches, and then larger stones that are 2-4 inches. So far, it’s been all I need!

    river rock in wheelbarrow for dry river bed being scooped with shovelriver rock in wheelbarrow for dry river bed being scooped with shovel
    I had it all mixed together to make laying it down easier.

    I then had Kiddo reorganize the rocks. He wanted to organize them so that the larger ones were on the outside and the smaller ones were on the inside. We didn’t use any kind of edging.

    Kiddo feels a lot of pride doing work in the garden, and he talks about the dry river all the time. I love seeing him become attached to the garden.

    pouring river rocks onto landscape fabric for a dry river bedpouring river rocks onto landscape fabric for a dry river bed
    Before Kiddo organized it all!

    Maintaining Your Dry River

    So far, the only maintenance I’ve done to my front yard is to take grass shears and cut back the flowers along the edge of the dry river bed.

    While I wanted a walking path, it is a little bit unstable to walk on. For someone like me with a disability, having a riverstone walkway can be a bit of a challenge. Twisted ankles are definitely a concern.

    But for my family, it’s not supposed to be a major walking path. There will be no wheelbarrows or people walking it daily. It’s just for the animals and our family to use when they need to traverse across the wildflowers.

    I may adjust it in the future, but for now, I’m content. What you can also do is add natural paver stones to the center to make it look more like a walkway.

    Your dry river shouldn’t need much maintenance, but make any necessary adjustments as you go. It won’t be immediately evident how the drainage will work until it rains!

    dry river bed next to wildflower lawndry river bed next to wildflower lawn
    The wildflowers do flop onto the dry river bed, but grass shears are easy to use to clean it up.

    Landscaping Your Dry River Bed

    When I removed the wildflowers, I tried to keep them and transplant them. While the sweet alyssum transplanted well, most of the other flowers didn’t.

    On one side of the dry river towards the house, I ended up digging out any remaining wildflowers and turning that space into a drought tolerant herb garden. So far, I have lavender, sage, rosemary, and some yarrow.

    These drought tolerant plants will not need supplemental water in the summer, but the dry river will also help keep moisture in the ground where the deep roots of the perennials can reach them.

    And the plants look beautiful as well!

    Dry rivers are very similar to rain gardens and have many of the same principles. You can find more landscaping and plant ideas for your dry river in this rain gardens post.

    rain garden designrain garden design
    This rain garden features native and drought-tolerant perennials.

    More Ways to Design a Drought-Friendly Garden

    Stephanie Rose

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  • Talc Studio: An Interview with Founders Taylor Palmer and Anastasia Sonkin

    Talc Studio: An Interview with Founders Taylor Palmer and Anastasia Sonkin

    Above: Anastasia and Taylor (right) at their office.

    Talc Studio‘s design aesthetic is the landscape equivalent of the perfectly mussed bedhead. Their outdoor spaces for clients up and down California are naturalistic and bordering on wildness, but at the same time highly considered and chic. “We are artists and designers that make gardens. We are gardeners that live and breathe art and design,” is how its founders, Taylor Palmer and Anastasia Sonkin, describe themselves. “Grounded in the arts and aesthetics, our medium allows us to explore the dense wonder of the natural world.”

    Next up for the duo: “We are opening a studio space and a retail shop + showroom in West Marin (Northern California), right on the glorious Highway 1. Stay tuned and come visit us this fall.” We can’t wait! In the meantime, we’ll just soak up Taylor and Anastasia’s plant wisdom, shared below, on everything from the tree they always snap up to their surprising distaste for drip irrigation.

    Photography by Jorden DeGaetano, courtesy of Talc Studio, unless noted.

    Garden-related book you return to time and again:

    Above: Landscape as Protagonist emerged from a symposium at Melbourne Design Week 2019.

    John Greenlee’s The American Meadow Garden. Jason Dewees’s Designing With Palms. Landscape as Protagonist, from publisher Molonglo.

    Instagram account that inspires you:

    We try to stay off of Instagram, but when we are on it… @lucianogiubbileigardens: His gardens never get old and never go out of style. Endless inspiration.

    @maryamnassirzadeh: Maryam’s style and point of view is authentic, free spirited and sophisticated. We want our gardens feel like her collections. She does everything so well.

    Describe in three words your garden aesthetic.

    Above: The pair at a wild iris meadow in Point Reyes.

    Intimate, elegant meadow.

    Favorite go-to plant:

    It’s a tie. Pennisetum spathiolatum (we call her “spath” for short). Loves the heat, can tolerate a little shade, always reliable.

    Banksia integrifolia. Our Banksia grower has us on speed dial for when a good-looking crop is ready because they know our love for them is strong. We believe they are the ultimate, under-used coastal California tree.

    Plant that makes you swoon:

    Above: Eriogonum nudum. Photograph by Taylor Palmer.

    Taylor: Eriogonum nudum (naked buckwheat). I admire its independence, its resilience, and immense beauty. It has this remarkably long, drawn-out process of growing up and dying back for more than half of the year.

    Plant that makes you want to run the other way:

    Anastasia: Red/burgundy Phormiums…No, no, no!

    Hardest gardening lesson you’ve learned:

    Taylor: Sometimes it’s hard to say goodbye. Coming to terms with mortality. The ebb and flow of life and death.

    Unpopular gardening opinion:

    If this question refers to unpopular opinions that we hold, we are trying to eliminate drip irrigation.. all those plastic tubes!

    Gardening or design trend that needs to go:

    Above: Dense, naturalistic planting at a Talc project in Sebastopol. Photograph by Taylor Palmer.

    Anastasia: Black mulch, plastic edging, planting in a straight line.

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  • Design a Rain Garden to Redirect and Filter Rainwater – Garden Therapy

    Design a Rain Garden to Redirect and Filter Rainwater – Garden Therapy

    With unpredictable weather becoming more and more frequent, having effective water conservation and filtering systems in your garden is more important than ever. If you have downspouts in your garden that direct to the street or a drain, let me introduce you to rain gardens! This garden project allows you to disconnect downspouts from sewers and instead let the rainwater rightfully return to the earth.

    While a rain garden sounds fancy, it’s really a low-maintenance system used to filter and release stormwater runoff. This keeps water local to the soil and creeks, just how nature intended it.

    I live in a rainy climate where a lot of wonderful work is being done to study, build, and educate the public on rain gardens and why they’re so important. It takes some time for these rain gardens to fill in, but boy are they beautiful when they do!

    rain gardenrain garden
    There are many rain gardens in my area, the Pacific Northwest.

    To check out some established rain gardens, I went on a walking tour with Deborah Jones from Cougar Creek Streamkeepers. They’re a wonderful group of volunteers dedicated to helping to restore and maintain the health of Cougar Creek, a salmon stream here in BC.

    One of the major things they do is create rain gardens to help reduce stormwater drainage. You can check out the rain gardens I visited on this map (stops 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17). The McCloskey Elementary School especially had a beautiful one. You can see the school’s rain garden in the photos throughout this post, among the other stops.

    This post will cover…

    THE REGENERATIVE GARDEN 80 PRACTICAL PROJECTS FOR CREATING A SELF-SUSTAINING GARDEN ECOSYSTEMTHE REGENERATIVE GARDEN 80 PRACTICAL PROJECTS FOR CREATING A SELF-SUSTAINING GARDEN ECOSYSTEM

    By the way, this is one of many projects featured in my latest book, The Regenerative Garden. Besides sustainable water drainage systems and gardens, I also cover plenty more ways you can create a natural and self-sustaining garden. Be sure to check it out if you’re ready to take your garden the extra mile towards sustainability.

    What is a Rain Garden?

    A rain garden is any type of landscape that takes, absorbs, and filters rainwater runoff. Usually, this runoff is directed from man-made surfaces such as pavement or roofs.

    Without human interference, all rainwater would naturally soak into the ground. But the more buildings, streets, and other urban developments we create, the more land we cover. This means less and less ground area where rain can soak into the soil.

    Our solution was to create water drainage systems like eavestroughs, storm drains, and ditches. This is known as urban runoff. These drainage systems direct water back into streams and rivers, but they become incredibly polluted. They carry litter, oil, fertilizer, gas, pesticides, and more.

    down spout for urban runoff down spout for urban runoff
    Buried downspouts can direct rainwater directly into the garden.

    A rain garden can help retain water where it naturally belongs and filter all that urban runoff. It will remove the pollutants that would have otherwise gone down the drain.

    Beyond their functional duty, they also can be beautiful gardens that become a habitat for local wildlife and even provide some much-needed shade during the warm season.

    rain garden at an elementary schoolrain garden at an elementary school
    McCloskey Elementary School rain garden

    How Does a Rain Garden Work?

    Home gutters sometimes direct into sewer systems, which route stormwater through the same treatment system as toilets, showers, and sinks. Not only is this treatment unnecessary, but it can also cause overflows of the sewer system that redirects into the nearest river, lake, or ocean. This leaves local soils and waterways devoid of the rainfall they need to stay healthy.

    The basin of a rain garden is filled with plants that love moisture and can act as biofilters to purify the water. The upper swales have drought-tolerant plants that love to grow deep roots and access the available groundwater when they can.

    The rain garden design can be as simple as attaching a gravel-filled trough to a downspout and building a garden bed around it to designing more elaborate rain gardens that become a haven for bird and insect species.

    rain garden designrain garden design
    Rain gardens are also designed to be incredibly low maintenance.

    Creating a Unique Rain Garden Design

    Every rain garden will look different but there are some rules you will want to follow to get a functional design!

    The garden is built as a swale: a recessed center about 4-8 inches with berms around the perimeter to hold water in. The center planting area should be level to prevent pooling. The garden is generally twice as wide as it is long, with the widest part at the lowest point of the slope.

    Locate an area 5 to 15 feet away from buildings. At a minimum, the overflow drain should end 5 feet from structures without basements and 10 feet from structures with a basement height of 5 feet; add 2 additional feet for every foot deeper the basement is. Don’t locate a rain garden over underground utilities or large tree roots.

    rain garden sprout buried in groundrain garden sprout buried in ground
    McCloskey Elementary School rain garden

    The rain garden’s location should be slowed away from buildings to direct overflow out through spillways to other gardens rather than running back toward structures; however, the garden itself should have no more than a 5% grade overall (1-foot drop in 20 feet).

    In rainy climates, the bottom inside of the garden should be 15% of the square footage of the runoff source. So, a 500-square foot root requires a 75 square foot garden base (500×0.15=75).

    These measurements were provided by Seattle Public Utilities and King Country Wastewater Treatment Division’s RainWise Program.

    build a rain gardenbuild a rain garden
    Observe the garden after heavy rainfall to ensure the drainage is working correctly and not pooling.

    How to Build a Rain Garden

    1. Determine the garden’s location and extend the downspout to the highest point of the garden. Choose a location that can handle plenty of water saturation, away from septic systems, and away from plants, shrubs, or trees that don’t like their roots to stay wet.
    2. Use a garden hose or sprinkle flour to outline the garden’s shape.
    3. Dig the base 24 inches deep and use the soil to berm up the sides.
    4. Fill the base with 12 inches of a rain garden soil mix (one-third compost and two-thirds garden soil). This leaves 12 inches of ponding depth (the space from the top of the base soil to ground level where water can collect during rainy periods).
    5. At the lowest point of the garden edge, create an overflow area packed with rocks. This allows the overflow to be released without eroding the garden. The overflow should be directed to a street drain.
    6. Plant the rain garden design with water-loving plants. Add optional spillways to other garden beds that the overflow can irrigate.
    rain garden designrain garden design
    Native plants will have the best chance of survival in your rain garden.

    Rain Garden Plants

    Choose the right plants for your garden’s conditions. Suggested plants can be native plants or cultivated garden favourites that perform well in your unique microclimate. The best place to find the right plants for your garden is at your local garden nursery, which will carry both native and cultivated plants.

    Plant the garden plants, mulch with 2 inches of compost and water well. Water the plants regularly to establish them in the first few years. Add more compost as mulch annually.

    Often plants will move into the right position in the garden, like these drought-tolerant plants below that have replanted themselves to the basin of this area.

    rain garden plantsrain garden plants
    Over time, your rain garden will look like a natural, curated space.

    FAQ About Rain Gardens

    Where is the best place to put a rain garden?

    Look for a high to low spot, where gravity can help with drainage. You want an area that can handle lots of water saturation.

    Keep your rain garden away from large trees where their roots can take over, right next to buildings, and from septic systems. Also, consider the soil, as clay soil will require a larger rain garden to avoid pooling.

    What is the best shape for a rain garden?

    The best shape depends on your space, as you want to work with gravity rather than against it. Most rain gardens are designed to come from a downspout and move downward. People also design them alongside a driveway or ditch for a longer, more narrow design shape.

    You want to maximize infiltration. Guide the water to meander or pool through the garden so that it filters before draining to an overflow drain.

    Also ensure you’ve called your local authority and mapped out any utility lines on the property when designing your shape.

    What is the best mulch for a rain garden?

    Arborist woodchips are great for improving water absorption, as they prevent the soil from compacting. Regularly adding mulch will conserve the moisture in the ground and improve water retention and soil aeration.

    Can I add rock to my rain garden?

    Rocks won’t absorb any water, so you want to use them sparingly and as a final touch. Once you’ve made sure the soil is spongy and ready to absorb water, you can add rock for aesthetic purposes or to protect the soil from erosion in areas where there’s lots of water flow. Keep it a thin layer and don’t overdo it!

    As you can see, creating a rain garden is fairly simple and can provide lasting benefits for years to come. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below!

    Stephanie Rose

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  • Tom Massey’s Water Aid Garden at the 2024 Chelsea Flower Show

    Tom Massey’s Water Aid Garden at the 2024 Chelsea Flower Show

    One way to get people thinking, when it comes to the environment, is to offer beauty, and this is what Tom Massey and the architect Je Ahn have done on the Water Aid garden at the Chelsea Flower Show. Instead of a 3-dimensional check list reminding you how to be a good citizen, they have made a magical space that also happens to be fully functional on an environmental level. This is the best kind of garden design; it is subtle and inviting.

    Rainwater is the theme, and it’s a good one, with many of us experiencing too much, too little or, increasingly, both in any given year. Let’s look at some of the garden’s ideas on rainwater as a resource, rather than just a by-product of weather:

    Photography by Jim Powell for Gardenista, unless otherwise noted.

    1. Your roof can be a sponge.

    Above: Rusted spiral cladding mimics water going down a drain, on a somehow lightweight structure by Je Ahn of Studio Weave. Like plant containers with drainage, the haze around the top is flowers.

    The Water Aid garden commands the biggest plot on the show ground, but it also grew considerably when Je Ahn’s water harvesting structure went up, creating an extra planting plane for Tom Massey’s rooftop garden. The structure is huge but graceful, irrigating the plants, filtering rainwater and using gravity to pull it down for storage underground. It also provides permanent shade.

    2. Mimic the wider landscape.

    Above: Iris sibirica ‘Perry’s Blue’ and Trollius ‘Cheddar’, plants that would naturally live in meadows that have permanent moisture and are occasionally flooded.

    Respecting the lay of the land, and exaggerating natural dips and contours by shaping them into swales, gives rainwater somewhere to go. A flattened garden, especially one that is bone dry, is just another hard plane that adds water run-off to all the rest. Run-off leads to overflowing sewage plants, and washes nutrients (and chemicals) off land, polluting rivers. On the other hand, variations in topography bring a variety of moisture levels, and a greater choice of plants.

    3. Make a flyover.

    Above: A modular boardwalk is made with panels of slatted wood and rusted metal grills that connect with the floating garden plane above. Planting at ground level is mainly green and rust, with clear blue irises ringing out.

    Building ponds and improving streams is another way of embracing the fact of rainwater, rather than fretting about fluctuating swamp conditions. Elevate this, and yourself, with a simple means of getting across; via a boardwalk or bridge. Straight lines and right angles flatter wilder planting that loves the conditions.

    4. Keep it soggy.

    Above: Wet meadow plants Rodgersia pinnata ‘Superba’, Iris sibirica ‘Tropic Night’ and foxglove Digitalis purpurea.

    Make sure your storage capacity isn’t full when rain is predicted; use overflow pipes and backup storage, or “leaky” water butts that slowly release water into the ground, since terrain that is not rock hard has better absorbing qualities.

    5. Choose trees.

    Above: Pollution-tolerant and soil-cleaning alder (this one is Alnus glutinosa ‘Laciniata’) at left, with another British native, field maple (Acer campestre) at right. Pinus mugo, center, has an evergreen presence.

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  • 7 Ways to Reduce Water Usage While Gardening – Garden Therapy

    7 Ways to Reduce Water Usage While Gardening – Garden Therapy

    Have water, will thrive. We must do our part in limiting our water usage when it comes to our backyard plantings. Try these seven ways to reduce water usage through a diverse effort of water catchment systems and clever planting. 

    In our current environmental crisis, we’re all trying to do a little bit more. From encouraging biodiversity to helping support local wildlife, these are all small switches that hold the power to create big change. 

    Reducing your city water usage is another step to practicing sustainable, regenerative gardening. 

    For over 25 years, I’ve lived in Vancouver, British Columbia, known for its gray skies and relentless rainy days. During this time, I’ve witnessed a drastic change in water preserves, with caches not large enough to fulfill the city’s needs through the summer months. 

    Coupled with the raging wildfires that plague each summer season, doing our part to limit city water usage is more crucial than ever. 

    Today, I’m sharing 7 ways to reduce water usage with storage hacks that work for any yard or garden of any size. 

    Stephanie with watering canStephanie with watering can
    Hand watering is more mindful than most irrigation systems.

    Principles of Efficient Water Use

    Before we get started, I thought it might be useful to review the basics of what we’re trying to achieve. I outline these ideas in my book, The Regenerative Garden, as the foundation for efficient water use. 

    • Step 1: Capture and store rainwater for garden irrigation. 
    • Step 2: Recycle this water as many times as possible.
    • Step 3: Know your local water budget and stay within it. Never use more than your rainfall. 
    ways to reduce city water usageways to reduce city water usage
    Even places with known rainfall should collect and store rainfall for future use.

    7 Ways to Reduce Your City Water Usage

    To reduce your city water usage, you’ll need to diversify your efforts. A combination of catching, storing, recycling, and smart planting can help you reduce your city water usage in a major way. 

    These are a few strategies to get you started.

    1. Get Rid of Thirsty Lawns

    Lawns use a truly outrageous amount of water. While they have become the norm in most communities, there are plenty of lawn alternatives that use far less water. 

    If you don’t need your lawn, replace it with a low-maintenance ground covers like micro clover or a native, drought-tolerant grass species. Many seed companies have an eco-lawn alternative that you can try out.

    I’m in the midst of revamping the lawn at my new house with a new alternative lawn mix. Check it out below.

    2. Plant Native and Drought-Tolerant Plants

    Xeriscape principles, or conserving water through landscaping, go beyond the lawn. 

    The plants you choose to include in your garden can majorly affect your city water usage. 

    Choose plants that are native to your area, as they can survive on natural rainfall with little to no supplemental watering. Choosing drought-tolerant plants will also help you through the summer months when rainfall lessens. 

    drought tolerant plants are one of the best ways to reduce water usagedrought tolerant plants are one of the best ways to reduce water usage
    Sedum and lavender are both great drought-tolerant plants.

    3. Capture and Store Rainwater

    One of the basic principles of sustainable water use is capturing and storing rainfall for the drier months.

    Rain barrels with overflow pipes directly to your garden are an efficient way to capture rainfall. Barrels can be made from plastic, metal, or wood drums—all food-safe materials. 

    An average rain barrel can hold 50 gallons of rainwater, enough to water 80 square feet of garden. 

    rain barrel water catchment systemrain barrel water catchment system
    You can set up drip irrigation directly from your rain barrel for easy watering with low consumption.

    4. Redirect Drain spouts

    Have plants that love extra water? You can redirect your drain spouts to feed directly into your garden, giving your plants the extra water they crave without digging into the city’s water supply. 

    Do note that not all roof runoff is recommended for our gardens, depending on the material of the roof. Roofs made from non-porous metal are ideal, while untreated wood shingle roofs are also acceptable. 

    Avoid roof runoff from asphalt, rubber, and galvanized zinc roofs. 

    rain gardens are an excellent way to reduce water usagerain gardens are an excellent way to reduce water usage
    Solid, non-porous roofs work best for water collection.

    5. Build a Rain Garden

    Designing a rain garden sounds complicated, but it’s surprisingly low-maintenance and simple in concept. These gardens are designed to filter and release stormwater runoff, keeping water to the soil and creeks. 

    Rain gardens use moisture-loving plants that act as biofilters to purify the water, along with drought-tolerant plants with deep roots.

    These gardens range from simplistic to elaborate, redirecting natural water sources through drain spouts, gravel troughs, and an overflow area packed with rocks. 

    6. Use an Olla Water Catchment System

    Self-watering planters are an efficient way to save on city water usage while also saving you time. 

    Ollas are one of my favourite self-watering systems; they’ve been used for thousands of years to provide slow irrigation and deep root watering. 

    This ancient watering practice teaches plants to reach down and find this water source, limiting the need for supplemental watering. 

    You can even attach your ollas to a rain barrel, drawing water when needed. 

    Olla water catchment systemOlla water catchment system
    You can set up a rainwater catchment or greywater recycling system directly toward the ollas.

    7. Build a Wicking Bed

    Want to take self-watering to the next level? A wicking bed is essentially a giant self-watering container. It may resemble a classic raised bed, but there’s much more below the surface. 

    These beds have a water reservoir under the soil, dramatically reducing the need for supplemental watering. 

    The reservoir is made with an impermeable barrier to hold water, gravel to store the water, and drainage pipes for water flow; it can be filled manually, by rainfall, or through overflow spouts. 

    Through the hottest summer months, your wicking bed will only need a weekly top-up, with less manual care through the rest of the year. 

    raised gardening bed with nasturtiumraised gardening bed with nasturtium
    Use recycled materials to build your wicking bed.

    FAQ About Reducing City Water Usage

    Have more questions about reducing your city water usage? These are the questions I get the most. If I don’t answer your question here, please leave it for me in the comments below. 

    How can I reduce my city water usage in a small yard?

    It’s easy to have grand plans for water conservation when you have acres of space to work with. But when you’re dealing with a small city yard, you may feel more limited. 

    The good news is that all of these water-reduction strategies are designed to work in any space, with scale options for any yard. 

    A single rain barrel with redirected drain spouts is small-space-friendly, and can make a major difference in your water usage. 

    Planting lawn alternatives and native or drought-tolerant plants is another useful solution, possible in any size garden. 

    What are the best drought-tolerant plants for my garden?

    I recommend choosing plants that are native to your area; they use the least amount of water because they are equipped to survive in your specific region. 

    With this said, there are plenty of drought-tolerant plants that would make good additions to your garden. Some of my favourites include agave, aster, columbine, delphinium, echinacea, lavender, phlox, sedum, statice, sunflower, yarrow, and zinnias. Find the full list in this post.

    Stephanie Rose watering gardenStephanie Rose watering garden

    More Helpful Tips on Water Usage

    Pin image for how to reduce your city water usage through regenerative gardening practicesPin image for how to reduce your city water usage through regenerative gardening practices

    Stephanie Rose

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  • How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    If your property has access to flood irrigation, you know the benefits of deep watering for your landscape plants and trees. However, flooding your garden every 13 days may not be practical for watering raised beds and vegetable gardens. There is a way to water your garden using flood irrigation water that works well. This blog post explains how to install a flood irrigation system to effectively water your garden and raised beds. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    After the initial effort and investment, it is a low-cost solution for watering your garden. Not only does this method avoid the chemicals associated with treated water, but it is also much less expensive for the home gardener. Let’s dive into how to water your garden and yard using flood irrigation.


    What is flood irrigation?

    Flood irrigation is a system that captures and uses excess water from rainfall or snowmelt and provides a natural, chemical-free water source for your plants.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    In the Phoenix Valley, most irrigation water originates from SRP’s 13,000-square-mile watershed. It channels melted snow and rain into the Verde and Salt rivers. SRP then routes the irrigation water to the customer through lakes, dams, canals, and laterals.1

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Homeowners in flood-irrigated areas have access to irrigation runs every 13 days with a dry-up period (for canal repairs) during the winter. The average cost for irrigation water is $6.80 per hour.

    According to AMWUA, ”about 22,000 homeowners receive flood irrigation or about 5 percent of SRP lands.”2

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    My property does not have flood irrigation (I wish it did!), but my neighbor Larry Burnett‘s property does. I’m sharing the method he developed to use flood irrigation to water his garden.

    Larry cleared the use of this method for his property with the Roosevelt Water Conservation District. Check with local authorities to ensure you comply with local laws or water regulations. 


    What are the benefits of flood-irrigated water? 

    Flood irrigation offers a cost-effective, untreated water source rich in nutrients that promotes robust root systems by storing water deeper in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering and saline buildup. This method helps protect vegetation from drought and significantly reduces water evaporation compared to traditional sprinklers.1


    What are the challenges of using flood irrigation to water your garden? 

    • Gardens often need watering more often than every 13 days. 
    • You need more control over the amount of water than flooding with irrigated water offers. 
    • Flood irrigation relies on gravity, so water can’t reach raised beds or other elevated areas. 
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to water your garden and landscape plants with flood irrigation


    1. Install a storage tank (or multiple tanks, depending on your water needs) and an internal pump 

    Select a tank (or tanks) based on your water needs. Check your water bill to get an idea of your outdoor landscape usage. Choose a location close to your sprinkler system if possible. Tanks should be opaque to prevent algae growth.

    Install an internal pump (you’ll need to add electricity) to the tank. The pump will provide the water pressure to the drip lines.

    Each tank needs:

    • Electrical line (to run the pump)
    • City water line
    • Sprinkler line
    • 2-inch PVC hose connection
    • Overflow
    • Drain
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    2. Connect the tank to your sprinkler system and city water

    Connect the tank and irrigation water to the existing sprinkler system. The tank then becomes an additional source, along with the city water for the sprinkler system.

    Connect the tank to the incoming city water. This allows you to fill the tank with city water if needed. Install a switch on the line to your sprinkler system to enable switching between city water and irrigation water.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation


    3. Fill the tank each time you have irrigation 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    When it’s your turn for irrigation, use an external pump to fill the tank.

    • Attach the pump’s hose to the irrigation source.
    • Run the 2-inch PVC discharge hose from the pump to your water storage tank.
    • Attach the hose to your tank.
    • Turn on the pump and fill up the tank. 
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    A pump and 2-inch line allow Larry to fill his tank in 20-30 minutes during his regular irrigation runs.  

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Larry also suggests running your sprinklers and drips during the time you have irrigation while you are filling up your tank. This takes full advantage of water coming into your yard during your irrigation slot.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    4. Use water from the tank to water your yard and garden

    The internal pump provides the water pressure (especially as the tank empties) for the drip lines. It may take some experimentation to figure out the correct water pressure.

    Ideally, your water pressure using the tank / or incoming city water is the same. If the pressure is different, your watering times will vary based on which water source you are using.

    Adjust your valves as needed so you know how much water you use and how long it takes to water your garden and drip system

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

     5. Switch to city water as needed if the tank empties

    If you run out of stored flood irrigation water, switch back to using city water.

    Look at ways to lower your water usage or install an additional tank if you run out and use city water between each irrigation cycle.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post. 

    Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively. 

    He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds.

    Greenhouse Tips for Hot Summer ClimatesGreenhouse Tips for Hot Summer Climates

    If this post about how to water your garden with flood irrigation was helpful, please share it:

    Sources:

    1. https://blog.srpnet.com/managing-flood-irrigation/
    2. https://www.amwua.org/blog/why-are-we-still-using-flood-irrigation-in-the-desert

    Resources:


    Angela Judd

    Source link

  • How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    If your property has access to flood irrigation, you know the benefits of deep watering for your landscape plants and trees. However, flooding your garden every 13 days may not be practical for watering raised beds and vegetable gardens. There is a way to water your garden using flood irrigation water that works well. This blog post explains how to install a flood irrigation system to effectively water your garden and raised beds. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    After the initial effort and investment, it is a low-cost solution for watering your garden. Not only does this method avoid the chemicals associated with treated water, but it is also much less expensive for the home gardener. Let’s dive into how to water your garden and yard using flood irrigation.


    What is flood irrigation?

    Flood irrigation is a system that captures and uses excess water from rainfall or snowmelt and provides a natural, chemical-free water source for your plants.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    In the Phoenix Valley, most irrigation water originates from SRP’s 13,000-square-mile watershed. It channels melted snow and rain into the Verde and Salt rivers. SRP then routes the irrigation water to the customer through lakes, dams, canals, and laterals.1

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Homeowners in flood-irrigated areas have access to irrigation runs every 13 days with a dry-up period (for canal repairs) during the winter.  The average cost for irrigation water is $6.80 per hour.

    According to AMWUA, ”about 22,000 homeowners receive flood irrigation or about 5 percent of SRP lands.”2

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    My property does not have flood irrigation (I wish it did!), but my neighbor Larry Burnett‘s property does. I’m sharing the method he developed to use flood irrigation to water his garden.

    He cleared the use of this method with the Roosevelt Water Conservation District. Check with local authorities to ensure you comply with local laws or water regulations. 


    What are the benefits of flood-irrigated water? 

    Flood irrigation offers a cost-effective, untreated water source rich in nutrients that promotes robust root systems by storing water deeper in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering and saline buildup. This method helps protect vegetation from drought and significantly reduces water evaporation compared to traditional sprinklers.1


    What are the challenges of using flood irrigation to water your garden? 

    • Gardens often need watering more often than every 13 days. 
    • You need more control over the amount of water than flooding with irrigated water offers. 
    • Flood irrigation relies on gravity, so water can’t reach raised beds or other elevated areas. 
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to water your garden and landscape plants with flood irrigation


    1. Install a storage tank (or multiple tanks, depending on your water needs) and an internal pump 

    Select as large a tank as will fit in your space. Choose a location close to your sprinkler system if possible. A 1750-gallon tank holds up to 2000 gallons when full.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    2. Connect the tank to your sprinkler system

    Connect the tank and irrigation water to the existing sprinkler system. Install a switch to enable switching between city water and irrigation water. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    3. Fill the tank each time you have irrigation 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    When it’s your turn for irrigation, use an external pump to fill the tank. Run a 2-inch PVC discharge hose from the pump to your tank. Turn on the pump and fill up the tank. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    A pump and 2-inch line allow Larry to fill his tank in 20-30 minutes during his regular irrigation runs.  

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Larry also suggests running your sprinklers and drips during the time you have irrigation while you are filling up your tank. This takes full advantage of water coming into your yard during your irrigation slot.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    4. Use water from the tank to water your yard and garden. 

    The internal pump provides the water pressure (especially as the tank empties). It may take some experimentation to figure out the correct water pressure. Adjust your valves as needed so you know how much water you use and how long it takes to water your garden and drip system

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

     5. Switch to city water as needed if the tank empties

    If you run out of stored irrigation water, switch back to using city water from the storage water. Install an additional tank if you run out and use city water between each irrigation cycle.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post. 

    Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively. 

    He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds.

    Greenhouse Tips for Hot Summer ClimatesGreenhouse Tips for Hot Summer Climates

    If this post about how to water your garden with flood irrigation was helpful, please share it:

    Sources:

    1. https://blog.srpnet.com/managing-flood-irrigation/
    2. https://www.amwua.org/blog/why-are-we-still-using-flood-irrigation-in-the-desert

    Resources:


    Angela Judd

    Source link