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  • Meet the Collector: Raphaël Isvy Wants to Rewrite the Rules of Buying and Selling Art

    Items from Isvy’s collection in his apartment in Paris’s 16th Arrondissement. Courtesy Raphaël Isvy

    A new generation of collectors is determined to take control and rewrite the rules of an art system they don’t identify with, finding its hierarchies outdated and its codes sluggish compared to the speed at which they now share information, discover artists and shape their own passions. During a frenetic Paris Art Week, Parisian collector Raphaël Isvy opened his collection to Observer, reflecting candidly on what no longer works in the traditional art world and how things could evolve—much as other markets already have.

    Isvy picks us up from the opening of Paris Internationale on his motorcycle—the only sensible way to cut through the week’s gridlocked traffic—and takes us to his apartment in the elegant 16th arrondissement, directly across the river from the Tour d’Eiffel, where his two young daughters greet us at the door. Between the roar of the ride and the quiet of home, he begins not with art but with life: how becoming a father reshaped everything—his outlook, his sense of time and his focus on what truly holds value behind the mirror.

    Born in 1989 and raised in Paris, Raphaël Isvy studied mathematics and statistics, worked in finance and asset management and later consulted for major tech firms. He followed the path laid out by family and convention before discovering art—a revelation that slowly but completely redirected his life toward his passion. He began collecting around 2016 and didn’t know much about art, beyond living in a city surrounded by it. “I didn’t grow up in an art-oriented family—everyone around me was a doctor, either a dentist or an eye doctor—I was the only one who ended up working in finance. I’d studied mathematics and statistics, but I had always been very curious by nature,” Isvy tells me. Curiosity is often enough to start someone down the collecting path, but he was also becoming bored with straight finance. “I loved the idea of owning something that others had tried—and failed—to get. I was drawn to the fact that art could be bought online, and I was good at that. I was fast, quicker than most people.”

    That’s how Isvy ended up buying an Invader print. “When it arrived and I saw it at home, I completely changed my mind about selling it, even though I was getting crazy offers,” he says. It was an early Invader, but there was already a strong market for his work—though at vastly different price levels than today, when unique mosaics (his large “alias” works, one-offs or very limited editions) sell for hundreds of thousands of euros (one piece recently sold for about €480,000) and at auction for as much as US$1.2 million, while prints now trade in the thousands rather than the hundreds Isvy paid at the time.

    A man in a white T-shirt seated on a couch holding a framed painting of a stylized tree with red circular fruits against a muted landscape.A man in a white T-shirt seated on a couch holding a framed painting of a stylized tree with red circular fruits against a muted landscape.
    Raphaël Isvy. From Instagram @raph_is, Courtesy Raphaël Isvy

    What first hooked him was the thrill of opening the tube. “Putting on the white gloves, seeing the number, realizing that this specific number was mine and no one else’s and then framing it,” he recounts. “I even went down the rabbit hole of reading forums about how best to frame it flat. That’s when I realized I was in love with the whole process.”

    Isvy freely admits he began collecting art with little knowledge of the Old Masters or anything related to deceased artists. “I’m lucky to live in a city where there’s everything, but I really didn’t know much at all,” he says. Instead, he represents the new generation of collectors identified in the latest Art Basel and UBS report—those who educate themselves and gather information primarily online through forums and social media.

    “I taught myself—from Instagram, collectors’ accounts, Facebook groups, forums, whatever was available back then,” Isvy explains. “It all started with buying prints and hanging them on my walls, but when people came over and started talking about the pieces—debating them, arguing whether they were too simple, saying things like ‘my kid could do that’—I realized that was exactly what I loved about art: it sparked conversation.”

    From there, Isvy began buying more prints and drawings, learning everything he could online and relying on the only tool he truly trusts—his eyes. “At some point I thought, okay, my wallet can do better than this,” he says as we sit in his living room, where the walls showcase the results of his less-than-decade-long collecting journey: above the fireplace hangs a work on paper by George Condo, paired with a sculpture by Sterling Ruby and a painting by Naotaka Hiro. On the floor, smaller works by once-emerging artists now internationally recognized, such as Sara Anstaiss and Brice Guilbert, sit alongside pieces by established figures like Peter Saul. Hanging in the entryway above a Pierre Paulin sofa is a blue neon by Tracey Emin that reads “Trust Yourself”—a phrase that neatly sums up Isvy’s path into art.

    Greeting us at the entrance are a Tomoo Gokita painting and a hanging sculpture by Hugh Hayden, while elegantly nestled between books in the dining room’s library are smaller gems by rising painters who have quickly gained attention—from an early Eva Pahde (who just opened her debut solo at Thaddaeus Ropac in London) to Adam Alessi, Robert Zehnder, Elsa Rouy, Jean Nipon and Alex Foxton. Even the rooms of his two daughters hold small contemporary treasures, including a painting by Tomokazu Matsuyama and a drawing by Javier Calleja, while beside the couple’s bed stands an elegant surrealist figure—a woman with an octopus on her back by Emily Mae Smith.

    A black sculptural wall piece shaped like a cast-iron pan with a stylized human face at its center, mounted on a white wall beside a stone column.A black sculptural wall piece shaped like a cast-iron pan with a stylized human face at its center, mounted on a white wall beside a stone column.
    Isvy exemplifies that ways younger collectors today are determined to claim agency and rewrite the rules of an art system they no longer identify with. Courtesy Raphaël Isvy

    Before turning to art, Isvy had already collected sneakers and Pokémon cards, though never on a large scale. When he began collecting art, he approached it with a similarly modest budget. “I used to find artists selling directly from their studios, offering small drawings for $500 or $600,” he recalls. One of his first paintings was by mike lee, purchased from Arsham/Fieg Gallery (AFG)—a small gallery on the second floor of the Kith store at 337 Lafayette Street in New York. Opened in 2021 as a collaboration between Ronnie Fieg and artist Daniel Arsham, AFG was a natural extension of Fieg’s brand and its crossover between fashion, design and art—a combination that perfectly matched the taste of Isvy’s generation. “When it arrived—with the crate, the white gloves and the realization that it was a one-of-one—it completely shifted my perspective. I thought: Okay, I want to do this forever.”

    Collecting in a community and growing with it

    From that moment, Isvy began connecting with more people. “I think that’s what really defines me and the way I’ve been collecting. I’m someone who connects,” he says. “I talk to everyone the same way, I react to stories, ask questions and exchange views. Because in the art world, if you’re alone, you’re nothing. Without perspective, without taste, without access—even if you’re a billionaire—you’re still nothing without people.”

    Convinced that community was essential to both access and understanding, he created a Facebook group devoted to prints and drawings. It became a space for collectors to share advice on buying, selling, framing and promoting new releases and studio drops. Over time, it evolved into a global network that brought people together both online and offline.

    “People began organizing meetups in different cities and I remember traveling to Los Angeles to meet fifty collectors, then to New York to meet a hundred and later to Asia to meet hundreds more,” Isvy recalls. His story underscores a growing need for connection and dialogue among young collectors—a desire for shared discovery that drives collectible cultures popular with Gen Z and Millennials but is too often constrained by the rigid hierarchies of the traditional art world. The community he built around him includes collectors aged 18 to 35 who neither identify with nor seek to conform to those old rules. From there, the network grew organically—one introduction leading to another—spanning continents and forming a parallel ecosystem of its own.

    Immersed in this community, Isvy began hearing about artists before they reached broader recognition. “When both Asian and American collectors were mentioning the same names, I knew it was a signal worth paying attention to,” he says. Those insights, combined with his instinct, led him to make early acquisitions that proved remarkably prescient: a large Robert Nava painting bought for $9,000 before gallery representation; an Anna Park piece purchased while she was still an undergraduate for $900; and an Anna Weyant work acquired at NADA in 2019 for $3,000. “People often say I got lucky—but it wasn’t luck. I did my homework. I have a process and I’m meticulous about it.”

    A modern dining room with a travertine table, six wooden chairs, and a brass chandelier with oval glass lights, backed by shelves filled with books and contemporary artworks.A modern dining room with a travertine table, six wooden chairs, and a brass chandelier with oval glass lights, backed by shelves filled with books and contemporary artworks.
    Isvy’s story reveals the deep need for connection, community and shared discovery that drives a new generation of collectors. Courtesy Raphaël Isvy

    When Isvy buys art, it’s never entirely spontaneous—he reads, researches and cross-checks everything. “We see about twenty new artists a day now and most are talented—but the real challenge is spotting the exceptional ones, the ones who will last,” he notes. As seasoned collectors know, that requires more than recognizing talent; it’s about identifying the right combination: an artist with originality, supported by the right gallery, at the right moment. “Those indicators are hard to find, but they form your own recipe—your personal algorithm. That’s what drives me. It’s not luck; it’s preparation meeting opportunity.”

    Collecting with a purpose

    For Isvy, his goal as a collector soon became clear: to own remarkable works. He first drew inspiration from older collectors—the kind he saw in books, magazines and on Instagram—showcasing homes filled with art. “When you start collecting, you get obsessed with the books, the magazines, the collectors you see online,” he says, explaining that what fascinated him was how art, furniture and architecture could merge to form a complete aesthetic statement. “It’s not about showing off; it’s about assembling design furniture, an apartment and artworks in a way that feels balanced. It’s actually really hard.” But that, he says, is what defines true taste. “You can be a billionaire and still ruin everything with bad lighting or the wrong couch. That’s why I wanted white walls, simplicity, space for the works to breathe.”

    Although his collection now includes more than a hundred works (some co-owned with friends) the display in his apartment feels cohesive, with the art integrated naturally into the space, in dialogue with both furniture and architecture. To achieve this, Isvy collaborated with architect Sophie Dries, a close friend, who designed the interiors around the collection rather than the other way around, ensuring it remained a home first—a place where his daughters could live and move freely. The result preserves the apartment’s historic Haussmannian details while infusing it with the lightness and understated elegance of contemporary design.

    Over time, Isvy also began selling some works—but always within his community and with full transparency. “The one rule I’ve stuck to is reaching out to the gallery first. Most of the time, when they couldn’t help me resell, I would wait or find a responsible way to do it,” he explains, showing he understands the rules of the game. He recalls one case involving a painting by Anna Weyant that he bought at NADA in 2019 for $3,500. Two years later, as her market soared, he received offers as high as $400,000 from collectors in Korea. Out of loyalty to the artist and her gallerist, he refused to sell privately. “It was still my early years collecting and I was terrified of being canceled,” he recounts. He asked 56 Henry, where he had purchased the piece, to handle the resale, but they couldn’t, as Weyant had since joined Gagosian. He then consigned it to the mega-gallery, which held it for six months without success. “Later I learned they’d doubled the price—asking nearly $400,000 without even showing it properly. Of course it didn’t sell. They never even brought me an offer. They didn’t care; they had other inventory to push.” He eventually took it to auction because the offer was life-changing. Still, this decision caused backlash with the artist, despite the fact that he had followed every protocol.

    Isvy is openly critical of how written and unwritten rules often constrain the healthy circulation of art and value in the market. “The art world is an economic cycle like any other asset class. If you want it to stay healthy, you can’t break the links. Every time I sold an artwork, it was to buy another one to keep the cycle moving,” he explains. “When collectors reinject liquidity into the market, it benefits everyone. Instead of shaming people for selling, galleries should teach them how to do it properly, how to reinvest in a way that sustains the ecosystem.”

    A light-filled living room with a curved orange sofa, a sculptural wall piece with red fabric forms, a wooden coffee table, and an abstract painting above it.A light-filled living room with a curved orange sofa, a sculptural wall piece with red fabric forms, a wooden coffee table, and an abstract painting above it.
    The aesthetics of living and collecting converge; here, home becomes both gallery and manifesto of a taste grounded in balance and restraint. Courtesy Raphaël Isvy

    Isvy believes when a collector consigns a work back to a gallery—choosing to avoid auction and protect the artist’s market—the gallery should reciprocate that gesture. Offering trade-in credit or discounts toward another piece, for instance, would help sustain mutual trust. “That’s how you build trust and keep the wheel turning,” he says.

    For him, the cause of today’s stagnation is clear. Between 2019 and 2022, everyone was buying, often under restrictive three-year no-resale agreements, and collectors were afraid to act. No one wanted to break those rules, even as the market overheated. “The fear came not from greed, but from the culture of silence that galleries built around selling,” he notes. Now that those agreements have expired, the market is flooded with works—and many aren’t good. “Galleries were taking everything out of studios instead of curating and showing only what was great. During that period, there was no real filter—no accountability. There was too much abundance,” he says. Even when artists asked galleries not to show weaker works or to limit annual price increases to no more than 10 percent, few listened. “Everyone got greedy. Collectors, galleries, artists—we all played a part in pushing things too far. That’s why the market looks the way it does now.”

    When asked if this disillusionment has dulled his enthusiasm, Isvy admits that some of the magic has faded. “When you see how things really work behind the scenes, it’s not as enchanting as you once thought. It’s not disgusting, but it changes your perspective.”

    Still, surrounded by art in every corner of his home, he insists the passion remains. He’s simply more deliberate now—more thoughtful and selective. “I still love the emotion of collecting, that instinctive excitement,” he says. “But now I feel like my role is to help others see what needs to change—to make the system better. I have hope because there’s a new generation that wants to do things differently. When the old dinosaurs are gone, we’ll finally have a chance to rebuild.”

    Isvy’s role in rewriting the rules

    Raphaël Isvy represents a new generation of collectors determined to claim agency by reshaping the system from within. Like many millennials, he sees his role in the art world as deliberately fluid—collector, curator, advisor and connector all at once. “I do deals, I buy, I sell, I help people collect, I introduce them to artists,” he explains. For him, those boundaries are artificial. “In the past, collectors were patrons; today, we can be activators,” he says, recalling how last year he curated a large cultural exhibition in the South of France, set in a vineyard, which received an enthusiastic response. He insists he doesn’t fit neatly into any single label. “I don’t have a defined role. I just love art and people.” Yet, he admits, the traditional art world resists those who refuse to stay in one box. “The truth is, the more dynamic you are, the more everyone benefits; more activity means more liquidity, more buyers, more fairs, more growth.”

    For Isvy, even the distortions that have plagued the market reveal that the system’s old rules no longer fit its global scale and speed. With production volumes far exceeding what the traditional model can absorb, he argues, the only way forward is to broaden the collector base and rethink how art circulates.

    He finds hope in younger galleries already experimenting with new models. “Many organize events that have an actual purpose—not just hanging a Rothko and waiting for the wire to come through. There’s a sense of responsibility and intent that wasn’t there before.”

    If given the chance to introduce concrete reforms, Isvy says he would start with enforceable rules—beginning with banning auction houses from selling works less than three years old. “This rule alone would already make a huge difference,” he argues. “It would bring more stability, discourage speculation and give artists time to grow before being thrown into the market machine.”

    In his view, part of the market’s instability stems from its lack of structure and accountability. Auction houses should face stricter limits—fewer sales per year, fewer lots per sale—to prevent oversaturation. Similarly, mega-galleries should adopt principles borrowed from finance, employing in-house risk managers responsible for ensuring artists are paid consistently and reserves are properly maintained. “Setting aside around 30 percent of income for operational stability, salaries and artist payments would bring the professionalism this sector urgently needs,” he explains. These are not radical reforms, he adds, but necessary corrections.

    A man in a black sweater stands in front of a framed cubist-style portrait, looking at the artwork on a white wall beside sheer curtains.A man in a black sweater stands in front of a framed cubist-style portrait, looking at the artwork on a white wall beside sheer curtains.
    Liquidity, transparency and dialogue are emerging as the values that sustain—not threaten—the collecting ecosystem’s future. Courtesy Raphaël Isvy

    At the same time, transparency remains the art market’s greatest weakness. Coming from a background in risk management, Isvy has seen firsthand how chaos unfolds when an unregulated system operates without rules. He recalls helping a friend sell a large painting that set a world record at Christie’s last October. “Everyone was celebrating, talking about millions of euros. What people don’t know is that the work wasn’t paid for in the end. There’s a huge lack of transparency in this market. No one realizes how many auction sales actually fall through, or how many so-called records are never settled,” he says.

    While auction data are theoretically the only public numbers the market can rely on, prices are often published without verification and used as benchmarks even when deals collapse. “That work eventually sold for a third of the supposed record price—but in the meantime, that inflated figure distorted the entire market,” Isvy notes. To him, as a former finance professional, the outcome is predictable. “Without a serious purge and some structural reforms, I don’t see how the market can restart.”

    He often describes the art market as “an ocean dominated by predators.” “Dealers are the sharks; collectors are the fish,” he says. “It’s almost impossible to navigate without getting eaten along the way. You get layers of intermediaries adding price on top of price and I’ll sometimes get three different offers for the same work, each one higher because it’s passed through multiple hands. It’s absurd. I’ve even had people steal images from my Instagram to pretend they’re selling my pieces.”

    Yet he doesn’t exempt anyone from blame. “We can’t really complain about the market’s current state—we all knew what was happening. But what’s different now is that younger collectors aren’t coming in blind. They research, they cross-check and they know the system before they buy. The old guard was drawn by instinct; they lived in a smaller art world, with a handful of galleries and fairs. For us, information is everywhere—and that changes everything.”

    A more fluid idea of contemporary culture

    For Isvy, the solution begins with greater liquidity and openness. The art market, he argues, must operate as fluidly as other collectible markets, because the old formula of engineered scarcity and opaque pricing—supercharged during the pandemic—has eroded trust.

    He compares the art world to the Pokémon card market, where transparency and liquidity keep everything in motion. “In that world, inventory changes hands every day. Payments can be made through crypto, PayPal, cash or trades—it’s fluid. People post story sales on Instagram, with clear prices and everything sells in minutes,” he explains. “Imagine trying that with art—everyone would freak out, say you’re breaking the rules. But it would work.”

    For Isvy, this kind of openness could reinvigorate the entire ecosystem. “If someone sells a $3,000 work, that person will probably reinvest that money in another artist. The wheel keeps turning. Liquidity creates opportunity—for collectors, for dealers and for artists who can produce new work. That’s how you sustain an ecosystem, not by freezing it.”

    When Isvy brings up this comparison, he leads us to what he calls his “little secret”—a private room that reveals another side of his personality. “The world knows me as a collector, but there’s another part of me. I’m a gamer, a geek. I collect Pokémon cards, NFTs and sneakers. I play PlayStation 5 every night. I love Lord of the Rings, Harry Potter and Final Fantasy. I couldn’t imagine my home without that side of who I am.”

    When he moved in, he told his designer he needed an office for remote work but also a personal space. Since her aesthetic was more classic, his architect introduced him to a younger, eccentric designer known for creating gaming and YouTuber rooms. “He had orange diamonds on his teeth,” Isvy laughs. “I told him my story and we figured out how to make a small space work as both an office and a world of my own.” Together, they designed the room from scratch. “He called it The Glitch—like a bug in a video game—because it doesn’t fit with the rest of the apartment.”

    A compact home office with grey walls, wooden desk, orange chair, monitors, and shelves displaying graded collectible cards and framed prints.A compact home office with grey walls, wooden desk, orange chair, monitors, and shelves displaying graded collectible cards and framed prints.
    The art market’s rigidity contrasts with the fluid economies that younger collectors are familiar with from gaming paraphernalia, sneakers and cryptocurrency. Courtesy Raphaël Isvy

    Inside, the space feels like a cross between a gaming den and a cabinet of curiosities. There’s a retro bench upholstered in tapestry, a BS Invader console, manga shelves, Pokémon cards, Rubik’s cubes and a miniature painting by Robert Nava—his favorite artist. The walls are covered in wallpaper that mimics the black-and-white static of an old television screen, paired with ceramic terrazzo tiles forming a custom mosaic floor. “It’s vintage, weird and perfect,” Isvy says.

    This hidden office and private room capture the spirit of an entire generation of collectors like Isvy—for whom contemporary art, Pokémon cards, anime and manga, video games and collectible figurines coexist within the same cultural imagination. It’s the universe that shaped their childhood and, ultimately, their identity. For this generation, these objects are not mere toys or décor but artifacts that equally express contemporary culture and their idea of collecting and supporting it.

    For Isvy, the space is more than an ode to nostalgia—it’s a statement. “The contemporary art world still struggles to accept that someone can collect a Condo and also Pokémon cards,” he says. “But that’s going to change. Our generation grew up with gaming and pop culture; it’s part of us. You can’t tell people to shut off that side of themselves. That’s how the next generation of collectors will come in—through openness, not hierarchy.” Gesturing toward the Nava painting behind him, he adds, “If I cared only about money, I would have sold it—I’ve had offers. But I paid $9,000 for it and to me, it’s priceless. He’s one of the most important artists of our generation. This room reminds me why I started collecting in the first place.”

    More art collector profiles

    Meet the Collector: Raphaël Isvy Wants to Rewrite the Rules of Buying and Selling Art

    Elisa Carollo

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  • A Brisk Start to the Armory Show Suggests Optimism as the Market Adapts to New Rhythms

    The Armory Show 2025 opened with a VIP preview on September 4 and runs through September 7. Casey Kelbaugh/CKA

    American collectors seem to have taken the back-to-school spirit seriously this year, with several dealers reporting a brisk and buoyant first day at the Armory Show. The New York fair—one of the city’s most established and historic—opened yesterday, September 4, at the Javits Center and quickly surpassed expectations across price ranges, leaving dealers cautiously hopeful that this season might mark the start of a healthier moment, at least for the U.S. market.

    “People are excited to be ‘back to school’—both dealers and collectors,” New York dealer David Nolan told Observer. By early afternoon, his booth had already sold well to existing clients and some new ones. “Many serious collectors are in from out of town to get in on the fun,” he noted. “Not to be hyperbolic, but things are flying off the wall.” Nolan’s booth was strategically conceived to offer something for everyone—one hundred works on paper spanning 1944 to the present, embracing a range of styles and narratives and, most importantly, different price points.

    Reflecting on the market, Nolan added that in his experience, the art world operates in cyclical patterns. “I have seen several waves of change since I opened my gallery, and they are good and necessary.” On the fair floor yesterday, there was no room for gloom and doom—only optimism. “I’m not afraid to be a pessimist, but there’s just no place for it at the moment!”

    A brightly lit Armory Show booth displays dozens of framed drawings and works on paper arranged salon-style on white walls, with a wooden table and chairs placed at the center of the space.A brightly lit Armory Show booth displays dozens of framed drawings and works on paper arranged salon-style on white walls, with a wooden table and chairs placed at the center of the space.
    David Nolan. Photo: Marc Selwyn

    Some international professionals at the fair were more critical, lamenting that The Armory Show no longer attracts many of the major galleries that once participated. “The Armory is stuck in the middle,” art market expert and thought leader Magnus Resch told Observer. “It has a strong team and a prime venue, but it’s held back by unfortunate timing, the absence of top galleries and direct competition from Frieze Seoul.”

    Optimism and early sales nonetheless offered immediate relief—and hope—to younger dealers, particularly those in the fair’s Present section, dedicated to galleries under ten years old and featuring the largest number of participants in Armory’s history. As director Kyla McMillan told Observer in an interview ahead of the fair, for her first edition, she wanted the event not only to appeal to seasoned collectors and institutional players but also to engage a broader, younger audience. The Armory Show is, after all, one of the longest-running fairs in the U.S. and a cornerstone of New York’s cultural scene—and often, for many New Yorkers, the first or only art fair they attend.

    One standout this year in the Present section was the alchemical cosmologies translated into glazed ceramic vessels by Mexican artist Alejandro Garcia Contreras, presented by Swivel Gallery in its Armory debut. Following Contreras’s sold-out debut at NADA New York two years ago and a solo exhibition, his new works once again captivated visitors with their mysterious, symbolic, archetypal language, merging mythological visions with pop culture to grapple with the mysteries of the universe. Four vessels and a ceramic mirror sold within the first hours of the fair, priced between $11,000 and $20,000, with an additional $12,000 vessel placed by evening.

    The gallery is also presenting in Platform, the section dedicated to large-scale installations, a new work by Jamaican-born artist Simon Benjamin, Tidalectic No. 1, 2025—a 700-pound iteration of his sand-barrel works, transmuting sediment and shoreline into vessels of memory. The piece exposes a geology and maritime history embedded in colonial pasts, engaged in the present and gesturing toward imagined futures.

    A dramatic installation of glazed ceramic sculptures by Alejandro Garcia Contreras is displayed on tiered white platforms, featuring fantastical, mythological figures, intricate textures, and surreal, brightly colored details.A dramatic installation of glazed ceramic sculptures by Alejandro Garcia Contreras is displayed on tiered white platforms, featuring fantastical, mythological figures, intricate textures, and surreal, brightly colored details.
    Swivel Gallery presenting the work of Alejandro García Contreras. Photo: Cary D Whittier

    The solo booth of British abstract artist Jo Dennis, presented by Mexico City- and New York-based gallery JO-HS, also attracted plenty of attention. On opening day, the gallery placed one of Dennis’s sculptures made from used military tent fabrics, where dense layers of intuitive marks and gestures accumulate as a psycho-emotional and poetic record of past memories and new bodily and identitarian awareness. By evening, several of her dynamic paintings were on hold with both existing and new collectors.

    Returning to Armory this year, Mrs. Gallery is showing a solo presentation of Molly Bounds’s intimate and psychologically nuanced paintings that place undefined and often archetypal subjects in liminal, contemplative and suspended states that resonate emotionally beyond any individuality. By evening, the gallery had placed at least two works, priced at $7,000 and $4,000, respectively.

    Also in Present, DINIM Gallery mounted a solo booth of evocative works by Emily Coan. By evening, the gallery had sold at least five pieces, captivating collectors with their imaginative, magical atmosphere inspired by fairy tales and myths. “There’s a tremendous amount of excitement and buzz,” Robert Dinim told Observer, noting the strong institutional presence with curators from museums across the U.S. and a large number of private collectors and advisors out with multiple clients. For him, the first-day atmosphere suggested the possible beginning of a market shift.

    A mixed-media work on washi paper by Alexa Kumiko Hatanaka shows a seated human figure formed from colorful geometric fragments, surrounded by monochrome fish prints arranged around the edges.A mixed-media work on washi paper by Alexa Kumiko Hatanaka shows a seated human figure formed from colorful geometric fragments, surrounded by monochrome fish prints arranged around the edges.
    An Alexa Kumiko Hatanaka work presented by Patel Brown. Courtesy of Patel Brown

    Toronto-based Patel Brown similarly reported a strong first day in the same section, selling six works from their solo presentation of Canadian-Japanese artist Alexa Kumiko Hatanaka, all priced under the $25,000 threshold. Combining tradition and innovation, nature and human creation, Hatanaka works on traditional Japanese washi paper with printmaking and ink, shaping her practice as a way to reattune to the organic rhythms of nature. Her process embraces transformation and the alchemical power of materials to create seemingly abstract compositions that move beyond human-centered perception and expression, while reflecting the fragility of environments and the delicacy of entire ecosystems disrupted by human activity.

    Meanwhile, for its inaugural participation in the Armory, Miami-based gallery Andrew Reed featured a solo presentation by Cornelius Tulloch, reporting sales of multiple works in the range of $4,000 to $6,000. Moving within a largely symbolic and allegorical realm, Tulloch explores themes of migration, masquerade and Afro-Indigenous rituals in paintings that evoke both the mystery and vitality of the tropical South Florida and Caribbean landscapes.

    Also making its Armory debut, the dynamic Chicago-based Povos Gallery presented a solo booth of Mexican multidisciplinary artist Leopoldo Gout, following his sold-out show at the gallery last year. Gout’s ever-expanding creativity traverses mediums and themes, weaving stories about human nature in relation to the natural world and emphasizing the power of collective imagination. The gallery reported strong interest and promising conversations likely to lead to additional sales in the coming days.

    In the Focus section, one of the most anticipated highlights was the solo booth of vibrantly colored ceramics by Miami artist Joel Gaitan, presented by The Pit, which went on to win the $10,000 SAUER Art Prize.

    In the main section, Brazilian dealer Nara Roesler saw positive interest in both the Brazilian artists central to her program and international names. By evening, the gallery had placed a linen-and-wool work by Sheila Hicks for $87,000, a print edition by Vik Muniz for $50,000, and works by Marcelo Silveira ($18,000), Manoela Medeiros ($20,000) and Bruno Dunely ($8,000). “We are happy to be back at the Armory with such a strong group of galleries. The mood is still high,” senior director Patrícia Pericas told Observer. “We have been particularly pleased with the increased interest from advisors requesting works by Brazilian artists for their clients.”

    A brightly lit Armory Show booth by Nara Roesler features colorful large-scale works, including a suspended red geometric sculpture, a golden circular wall piece, abstract canvases, and a tall wooden installation.A brightly lit Armory Show booth by Nara Roesler features colorful large-scale works, including a suspended red geometric sculpture, a golden circular wall piece, abstract canvases, and a tall wooden installation.
    Nara Rosler. CHARLES ROUSSEL

    In the main section, Marc Straus featured a group presentation of leading names from his roster, with a clear emphasis on the handmade and on legacies of craftsmanship reimagined through contemporary material approaches. The booth included Jeffrey Gibson’s Like a Hammer—the title piece of his landmark touring museum survey that began in 2014—alongside works by Abdulnasser Gharem, Folkert de Jong, Hermann Nitsch, Ozioma Onuzulike, Anne Samat, Antonio Santín, Renée Stout and Marie Watt. “We had a tremendous first day, with five works sold within the first few hours and both new and returning collectors visiting our booth,” Straus told Observer. “I believe our strong sales came from bringing the very best works by each artist and, as always, keeping our prices fair.” First-day sales for the gallery included oils by Antonio Santín.

    A range of abstract works dominated James Fuentes’s booth, including pieces by John McAllister and Pat Lipsky, anticipating their fall exhibitions at the gallery. Fuentes had already sold Lipsky’s Winter Landscape (1971) ahead of the fair for $180,000. The artist’s upcoming show and renewed market attention coincide with the release of her book Brightening Glance: Recollections of a New York Painter (University of Iowa Press).

    Among the highest-priced sales on opening day, Galleria Lorcan O’Neill placed works by Tracey Emin, Kiki Smith and Rachel Whiteread in the range of $15,000 to $1,000,000, while Sean Kelly sold a painting by Kehinde Wiley for $265,000.

    By day’s end, the other major-ticket work at the fair—a $1.2 million Alex Katz anchoring Peter Blum’s booth—remained available. Nonetheless, Blum reported several other sales, including works by Martha Tuttle and Nicholas Galanin, who continues to enjoy a strong institutional presence this year, both in the U.S. and in biennials and museums worldwide.

    Visitors interact with a hanging installation of wire eyeglass shapes, one woman taking a selfie while others look on and smile.Visitors interact with a hanging installation of wire eyeglass shapes, one woman taking a selfie while others look on and smile.
    The fair’s opening day reinforced the resilience of the art market. Photo by Casey Kelbaugh. Courtesy of The Armory Show and CKA.

    James Cohan Gallery placed a sculpture by Kennedy Yanko in the first hours for $150,000. Yanko only recently joined the gallery’s roster, following her solo presentation with Cohan at Frieze London and a nearly sold-out double exhibition staged jointly with Salon 94 last September. The gallery reported a number of first-day placements for other in-demand artists on its roster, including two paintings by Naudline Pierre at $25,000 and $12,000, a painting by Mernet Larsen ($12,000), two sculptures by Tuan Andrew Nguyen at $95,000 each (following his solo booth at Frieze New York in May) and two works by Trenton Doyle Hancock ($85,000 and $40,000). On the textile front, the gallery placed two appliqué works by Christopher Myers ($45,000 and $37,000) and a woven piece by Claudia Alarcón & Silät ($25,000).

    Returning to the Armory this year—and participating in both the New York and Seoul fairs this week—White Cube sold several works from its solo presentation dedicated to the Croatian artist duo TARWUK, with paintings ranging from $65,000 to $100,000. Coming of age amid the dissolution of socialist Yugoslavia, the trauma of war and the collapse of familiar social structures, TARWUK’s work carries a bleak, decadent aesthetic that evokes the lost splendor of the region’s golden age while hauntingly resonating with the present—particularly Europe’s fraught role in global geopolitics. The gallery also sold a mixed-media work by Emmi Whitehorse for $150,000, following her first solo with White Cube last September at its Paris space and a surge of interest sparked by her inclusion in the recent Venice Biennale. Additional sales included a painting by Tunji Adeniyi-Jones for $85,000 and a bronze by the always fair-popular Tracey Emin for £60,000, among others.

    A White Cube booth at the Armory Show 2025 displays large narrative paintings by TARWUK in earthy tones and a vivid blue, alongside sculptural busts on pedestals, with minimalist seating in the center of the space.A White Cube booth at the Armory Show 2025 displays large narrative paintings by TARWUK in earthy tones and a vivid blue, alongside sculptural busts on pedestals, with minimalist seating in the center of the space.
    White Cube presenting TARWUK. © the artist. Photo © White Cube (Monroe Dinos-Kaufman).

    Also participating in the season’s restart on both sides of the globe—New York and Seoul—was Tang Contemporary, which reported multiple sales, including Ai Weiwei’s sculpture Toilet Paper for $150,000-180,000. Elsewhere, overlooked-talent-scouting gallery Berry Campbell saw strong interest, closing a 1952 painting by Perle Fine on the first day for $125,000, with additional conversations expected to unfold in the coming days.

    It was a successful “back to school” for Nicodim as well. “The energy was high, outfits chic and sales brisk,” gallery partner and global director Ben Lee Ritchie Handler told Observer. On the first day, the gallery placed works by Isabelle Albuquerque, Angeles Agrela, Samantha Joy Groff, Rae Klein and Teresa Murta, with promising holds on major pieces by Devin B. Johnson, Agnieszka Nienartowicz and Moffat Takadiwa—all priced between $12,000 and $65,000.

    A crowded aisle at the Armory Show with visitors walking between booths, some stopping to view artworks, under signs marking galleries from New York, Los Angeles, and beyond.A crowded aisle at the Armory Show with visitors walking between booths, some stopping to view artworks, under signs marking galleries from New York, Los Angeles, and beyond.
    The Armory Show brings together more than 230 galleries for its 2025 edition. Casey Kelbaugh/CKA

    Proving that the under $50,000 price range may be the most dynamic and fast-moving in today’s environment, Uffner & Liu sold several works on the first day in the main section. Sales included a piece by Sheree Hovsepian for $28,000, two paintings by Sarah Martin-Nuss for $22,000 and $15,000 and a cabinet and two paintings by Anne Buckwalter for $11,000, $14,000 and $10,000, respectively. By evening, the gallery had crossed that “sweet” threshold, placing a sculpture by Hovsepian for $75,000. L.A. mainstay Vielmetter reported selling most of the works they brought to the fair—ranging from $8,000 to $50,000—by the end of the first day, while Anat Ebgi moved quickly to place works by some of their most promising young talents, many recently presented in their new Tribeca spaces. Sales included pieces by Marisa Adesman ($35,000), Tammi Campbell ($50,000), two paintings by Sigrid Sandström ($32,000 and $25,000), Janet Werner ($28,000), Jemima Murphy ($23,000), Ileana García Magoda ($22,000) and two glazed stoneware works by Olive Diamond ($7,500 each).

    Meanwhile, another New York staple, Lyles & King, sold multiple works by Brazilian artist Fernanda Galvão, including a $36,000 diptych and a painting for $24,000. Drawing from science fiction and biology, literature and cinematography, Galvão reflects on the construction and manipulation of fictional landscapes, proposing alternative universes with new rules, spatial dynamics and temporal logic. Though already widely exhibited in Europe and South America, this well-received presentation marked something of a debut for the artist in the U.S.

    An overhead view of the Armory Show floor shows visitors mingling among booths and colorful artworks, with large quilted textile pieces suspended in the central aisle.An overhead view of the Armory Show floor shows visitors mingling among booths and colorful artworks, with large quilted textile pieces suspended in the central aisle.
    In her first year as director, Kyla McMillan has focused on curatorial strength, U.S. market leadership and New York’s central role in the global art market. Photo by Casey Kelbaugh. Courtesy of The Armory Show and CKA.

    Overall, the mood on Armory’s opening day was positive, offering hope for a stronger season ahead for both U.S. and international dealers and for a recovery of the American art market to a “new normal”—though still far from the pace and levels galleries had grown used to. Yet, as dealer and advisor Henri Neuendorf observed, galleries are simply tired of the steady drip of negative news about the state of the market. “We all know sales have been stronger in years past, but the negativity can become a self-fulfilling prophecy,” he commented. “My sense was that dealers and buyers seem cautiously optimistic and ready to turn the page.”

    Art advisor Angelica Semmelbauer echoed Neuendorf’s take, noting the fair featured strong presentations from both galleries and artists—even if some leaned toward the safe side. “What felt especially uplifting was seeing sales happening despite all the uncertainty in the art market, which has been a current topic, and the larger world right now that’s weighing on clients,” Semmelbauer said. “I’m still a big believer that artists will keep creating meaningful work and clients will be there to support their practice and acquire the work, to keep the art ecosystem moving forward in a purposeful way!”

    Ultimately, it’s a matter of readjusting expectations, refining strategy and adapting to a new rhythm. As yesterday’s Armory opening showed, the important thing is that American collectors—the fair’s core audience this year—are still buying and supporting the ecosystem as this next cycle begins.

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    A Brisk Start to the Armory Show Suggests Optimism as the Market Adapts to New Rhythms

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  • Frieze and Kiaf SEOUL Scale Back in Spectacle While Still Securing Sales

    Kiaf SEOUL and Frieze Seoul each opened at the COEX Center with a VIP preview on September 3. Courtesy of Kiaf SEOUL

    For those who’ve attended Seoul’s art week since Frieze arrived in 2021, the contrast this year was unmistakable. The chaotic entrance lines at Kiaf SEOUL and the overcrowded aisles of last year’s Frieze are gone. Attendance feels lighter, and the booths more subdued, though major brands like Adidas, BMW, Ruinart and American Express still held prime positions at the entrance—a clear indication that the fair’s popularity is now firmly rooted in Korean society four years after its debut.

    At the opening of Frieze Seoul on Wednesday, September 3, the mood was distinctly more muted and contained—a reflection of the art world adjusting to a new chapter in South Korea’s post-boom market. Slightly more lively in the afternoon was the historical Korean fair Kiaf, where collectors remain loyal to longstanding traditions and their local dealers.

    A view through colorful beams reveals a packed aisle at Frieze Masters, with visitors standing and walking among gallery booths.A view through colorful beams reveals a packed aisle at Frieze Masters, with visitors standing and walking among gallery booths.
    This year marks the 4th edition of Frieze Seoul. Courtesy of Frieze and Wecap Studio

    Blue-chip gallerists like Larry Gagosian and Emmanuel Perrotin skipped the trip this year, leaving their booths staffed solely by regional teams during the preview—a stark contrast to previous editions, when they flew in with much of their global staff. When gallery owners or lead partners from spaces focused on Korean artists, such as Gladstone and Mennour, did attend, it signaled that international galleries have already recognized the need to tailor their offerings to a local audience attuned to the market’s slower collecting pace and shifting attitude.

    While Korean collectors remain engaged with the international art circuit, this has undeniably been a turbulent year for the country. With President Yoon Suk-yeol ousted after attempting to declare martial law and an economy still reeling from the effects of U.S. tariffs, Korean collectors are understandably more cautious in their buying.

    Fairgoers gather around a booth featuring Yayoi Kusama’s signature pumpkin sculpture in black and gold dots, with visitors chatting in the crowded aisle.Fairgoers gather around a booth featuring Yayoi Kusama’s signature pumpkin sculpture in black and gold dots, with visitors chatting in the crowded aisle.
    This year, Frieze Seoul hosted over 120 galleries. Courtesy of Frieze and Wecap Studio.

    Private buyers and institutions remain active, but spending habits have shifted, as Observer gathered from early press preview conversations. The once-rampant appetite for ultra-contemporary works has given way to a more measured approach, focusing on institutional-grade pieces and blue-chip artists. Speaking with resigned pragmatism, dealers noted that this trend extends beyond South Korea, echoing across Asia and the global market.

    So what’s the new mantra for galleries? Cultivate your own relationships in the place you show. Those who have spent years building ties in South Korea can still make it work, as can local players. But for newcomers, entering the market now may feel like they’re arriving just as the music stopped.

    That was not the case for the dynamic Los Angeles gallery Make Room, which marked its first appearance in Frieze Seoul’s main section with a shared booth alongside Apalazzo and a celebrity-filled dinner party steeped in a witchy atmosphere. Between drinks and bites of Korean fried chicken, K-pop and K-drama stars made appearances that set social media alight—including SUHO from EXO, actor Lomon Park, Tony Hong and members of the girl group Lovelyz.

    A dimly lit, crowded restaurant or lounge filled with people dining and socializing. Groups of friends sit at dark wooden tables with food, drinks, and soda cans, while others stand and mingle in the background. The atmosphere is lively and energetic, with warm golden lighting from a patterned wall installation creating a cozy ambiance.A dimly lit, crowded restaurant or lounge filled with people dining and socializing. Groups of friends sit at dark wooden tables with food, drinks, and soda cans, while others stand and mingle in the background. The atmosphere is lively and energetic, with warm golden lighting from a patterned wall installation creating a cozy ambiance.
    Make Room hosted a K-pop and K-drama star-filled dinner on Tuesday night. Courtesy Make Room | Photo: Studio Monday Naked

    Park Seo-Bo, a foundational figure in postwar Korean abstraction and the father of Dansaekhwa, was one of the names resonating most strongly at Kiaf and Frieze this year, following his recent passing. At Frieze, LG OLED honored his legacy in collaboration with the artist’s foundation, dedicating an entire booth to rarely seen later Écriture paintings from the estate, paired with ultra high-resolution video works that captured the textures in striking detail. The sharp contrast between the digital reinterpretations on screen and the tactile surfaces of the paintings underscored how, in his later years, Seo-Bo was already reflecting on the role of painting in a world saturated by screens and shaped by emerging digital realms that influence perception and aesthetics. As he once described it, standing on a “cliff edge” in the early 2000s, Seo-Bo confronted the question of how painting could evolve as the boundaries between different worlds began to blur.

    Dynamic lower tiers and Focus Asia offer opportunities for discovery

    Noteworthy results at both Frieze and Kiaf weren’t limited to the highest price points. Lindseed from Shanghai quickly sold out works by Chinese-born, Paris-based visionary Fu Liang at the Focus Asia sector, with prices ranging from $6,500 to $34,000. Similarly, Hong Kong-based gallery Kiang Malingue, which recently opened a space in New York, nearly sold out its solo booth of work by Taiwanese talent Tseng Chien Ying, priced between $15,000 and $25,000—a current sweet spot for collectors.

    Returning to Seoul from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s leading contemporary gallery, Galerie Quynh, took a bold step with a solo presentation in the main section, showcasing the layered work of Lien Truong, a Vietnamese-born artist based in North Carolina. Her intricate canvases—exploring the intersection of body, identity and environment through the lens of diasporic trauma and societal pressure—drew early interest from collectors.

    Galerie Quynh presents Lien Truong at Frieze Seoul 2025, Booth B21.Galerie Quynh presents Lien Truong at Frieze Seoul 2025, Booth B21.
    Galerie Quynh presenting Lien Truong, Booth B21, Frieze Seoul 2025. Courtesy Galerie Quynh

    Seoul gallery Cylinder made a striking debut in the main section, securing multiple sales, including a work by Jennifer Carvalho ($9,000), three works by Sunwon Chan ($2,500-4,800), two works by Eunsil Lee ($12,000 and $5,000) and two works by Jongwhan Lee ($2,200 and $5,000). Next for the fast-growing gallery is its debut at Frieze London with a solo booth by Rim Park.

    Equally successful, the young and dynamic Seoul gallery G Gallery sold six works by Choi Yoonhee on the first day ($2,400-19,000), a work by Moon Isaac for $12,000 and a piece by Cindy Ji Hye Kim for $10,000.

    Another first-time exhibitor in Focus Asia was Shanghai- and Beijing-based Hive Contemporary, which showcased emerging names including Yuan Fang, Xia Yu, Zhang Mingxuang and Tan Yongqing, drawing a strong response: by evening, the gallery had sold 18 paintings and one sculpture priced between $20,000 and $100,000.

    A contemporary art fair booth featuring two large textile-based works. On the left, a vividly colored fabric piece shows an erupting volcano with flames, factories, and a mountain landscape rendered in blue, red, and yellow tones with ornate borders. On the right, a large painted banner titled Djoeroes Kramat depicts stylized figures in masks and vibrant costumes, referencing Indonesian film poster aesthetics, with bold text in Malay/Indonesian across the top and bottom.A contemporary art fair booth featuring two large textile-based works. On the left, a vividly colored fabric piece shows an erupting volcano with flames, factories, and a mountain landscape rendered in blue, red, and yellow tones with ornate borders. On the right, a large painted banner titled Djoeroes Kramat depicts stylized figures in masks and vibrant costumes, referencing Indonesian film poster aesthetics, with bold text in Malay/Indonesian across the top and bottom.
    Timoteus Anggawan Kusno was presented by the Kohesi Initiative at Frieze Seoul Focus Asia. Photo: Elisa Carollo

    Despite this year’s reduced footprint—and tucked into a narrow corridor wedged between the main booths—the Focus Asia section at Frieze offered some of the most compelling opportunities for regional discoveries inside the COEX.

    Jakarta-based gallery Kohesi Initiatives presented Indonesian filmmaker and multimedia artist Timoteus Anggawan Kusno, whose work revisits censored narratives from 1960s films to explore liminality and historical erasure, examining the blurred lines between fact and fiction. Rooted in post-colonial and post-dictatorship Indonesia, Kusno’s practice reflects the country’s ongoing unrest and protests, shaped by the long-term consequences of the very issues his work confronts.

    A group of visitors engage with a booth installation at an art fair; one man in a suit gestures toward a hanging structure made of lightbulbs and wires, while others examine a screen on the wall.A group of visitors engage with a booth installation at an art fair; one man in a suit gestures toward a hanging structure made of lightbulbs and wires, while others examine a screen on the wall.
    Parcel (F3) at Frieze Seoul, Focus Asia. Courtesy of Frieze Seoul

    Tokyo-based PARCEL is presenting the multilayered practice of Side Core, a Japanese collective that critiques forced urbanization and restless public development through thoughtful multimedia guerrilla interventions. The works on view confront contradictions in public funding for the Tokyo Olympics and the broader paradoxes of Japan’s rapid urban expansion. Among them, the Rode Work series—launched in 2017 in Ishinomaki, Miyagi Prefecture—juxtaposes post-disaster reconstruction landscapes with the repetitive motions of skateboarding, highlighting the enduring bond between land and people. In the film, flashing lights and hazard signs guide drivers to a skate park built on a damaged industrial site, where skaters in high-visibility jerseys grind a half-pipe—subtly revealing how grassroots creativity can emerge from destruction and corruption.

    Another standout in the section is PTT Space, presenting the sharp satire of Taiwanese American artist Christine Tien Wang, who explores millennial diaspora anxieties and the recent volatility of the bitcoin bubble through one of the most diffuse yet persistent forms of contemporary ephemera: memes. Her Tiger series addresses diasporic anxiety and societal mobility within Asian communities, while her Bitcoin series critiques the NFT apocalypse and the fleeting nature of digital culture, transforming the disposable aesthetics of memes into what the artist calls “historical paintings,” reflective of our time and its contradictions. Working at the intersection of institutional critique, politics and popular culture, Tien Wang is gaining international recognition, with acquisitions by LACMA and exhibitions at both Night Gallery and Naxos Draxler.

    The image features a vibrant gallery space with a striking green wall, displaying a series of contemporary artworks. The back wall is adorned with large, fiery wall decals and a prominent artwork featuring a group of people with exaggerated facial expressions. On the left side, there are T-shirts with graphics hanging on a rack, and on the right, a TV screen plays a visual titled "Everything's COMPUTER!" showcasing an image of President Trump. The artworks appear to engage with pop culture and humor, incorporating bold, graphic elements.The image features a vibrant gallery space with a striking green wall, displaying a series of contemporary artworks. The back wall is adorned with large, fiery wall decals and a prominent artwork featuring a group of people with exaggerated facial expressions. On the left side, there are T-shirts with graphics hanging on a rack, and on the right, a TV screen plays a visual titled "Everything's COMPUTER!" showcasing an image of President Trump. The artworks appear to engage with pop culture and humor, incorporating bold, graphic elements.
    Christine Tien Wang’s “BDSM (Bitcoin Daddies Seek Memes),” presented by PTT Space in Frieze Seoul’s Focus Asia section. Courtesy of PTT Space

    Korean and international galleries stake a claim on Kiaf’s first-day buzz

    When comparing Kiaf with Frieze, several Korean dealers appeared to place even more emphasis on their presentations, spotlighting the top names in their rosters. On the lower level of the historic Korean fair, Kukje Gallery reported a complete sell-out of Ugo Rondinone’s work (the artist also has a show at Gladstone this week), along with an iconic green Kapoor piece (£550,000-660,000) and a later work by Park Seo-Bo ($250,000-300,000). Known as a leading gallery for Korean art, Johyun Gallery made a strong showing with artists like Lee Bae and Park Seo-Bo, reporting early sales directly from the floor. Blue-chip names also anchored Gana Art’s presentation, which included works by Alex Katz, Chiharu Shiota and Yayoi Kusama.

    Seoul-based EM Gallery drew attention with Moonassi, the Korean artist recognized for his black-and-white existential compositions. The gallery sold out pieces priced between $20,000 and $32,000—Moonassi’s works have remained in high demand since his last presentation, often with waiting lists.

    The oldest work on view at Kiaf this year was a painting by Palma Il Vecchio, dated 1525-1528, presented by Die Galerie alongside drawings and sculptures by Marino Marini and works on paper and lithographs by Picasso. The historic canvas drew attention on the floor with a price tag of €750,000, standing out amid the fair’s modern and contemporary offerings. Long part of the gallery owner’s personal collection, the masterpiece was originally acquired from a nobleman in Hungary, and now everyone’s wondering whether it will find a new home this edition.

    A Renaissance-style oil painting of a woman in a richly patterned red and white gown with voluminous sleeves, standing against a dark background. She has light skin, long wavy brown hair partially covered by a headpiece, and gazes forward with a calm expression. One hand rests on a ledge while the other folds across her waist, adding to her poised and dignified stance. The ornate details of her dress and the subtle play of light emphasize her elegance. The painting is framed in a simple dark wooden frame with gold accents.A Renaissance-style oil painting of a woman in a richly patterned red and white gown with voluminous sleeves, standing against a dark background. She has light skin, long wavy brown hair partially covered by a headpiece, and gazes forward with a calm expression. One hand rests on a ledge while the other folds across her waist, adding to her poised and dignified stance. The ornate details of her dress and the subtle play of light emphasize her elegance. The painting is framed in a simple dark wooden frame with gold accents.
    The oldest work on view at Kiaf this year was a Palma Il Vecchio painting from 1525-1528, presented by Die Galerie. Courtesy of Die Galerie

    In general, however, a pop aesthetic and lower price points seemed to be the winning formula for maintaining Kiaf’s floral energy on the first day. Gallery Delaive reported early sales of several works by Ayako Rokkaku, priced between €50,000 and €200,000.

    Among the standout presentations of new names, Space Willing N Dealing showcased quietly contemplative scenes of human interaction and exchange, all priced between $2,500 and $3,500. Busan-based gallery Nara Cho Busan presented Anomalisa, an exploration of love and entanglement through thread, with works priced at $7,800-12,000. Intimacy and suspended atmospheres—rendered through soft, delicate paint—also defined the work of Japanese painter Shimpei Yoshida, shown by Shibuya-based Hide Gallery. Thanks to very accessible pricing under $1,500, several pieces had sold or were on hold by day’s end.

    KORNFELD, participating in its fifth Kiaf, also reported a strong start. Works by Korean artists Wonhae Hwang and Seong Joon Hong found new collectors on day one, totaling €10,000, while a major piece by Etsu Egami sold within the first hour to a new Korean collector for €22,000. “After participating at Kiaf for more than five years, we are very pleased with the successful start of this edition and the positive response from collectors and institutions,” gallery owner Alfred Kornfeld told Observer.

    Returning to Kiaf with a strong grasp of the rhythm and habits of Korean collectors, the Milan-based Cassina Project had a particularly promising first day—even with just one confirmed sale. “We had good conversations. From our experience in past years, the following days are usually more intense—clients who show interest often return, and the final days are when deals close,” Irene Cassina told Observer.

    A hall at Kiaf Seoul 2025 with a banner overhead reading “Kiaf Seoul 2025.9.3–9.7,” as visitors browse colorful paintings and sculptures in the booths.A hall at Kiaf Seoul 2025 with a banner overhead reading “Kiaf Seoul 2025.9.3–9.7,” as visitors browse colorful paintings and sculptures in the booths.
    Kiaf SEOUL runs through September 7. Courtesy Kiaf SEOUL

    Among the additional sales reported by dealers at Kiaf by the start of the second day, Gallery Palzo sold Byeong Hyeon Jeong’s Ambiguous Inclination 25008 for $5,250 and two works by Lee Daecheon—Berg, Wasser (산, 수) for $3,000 and Gardener for $450—along with two paintings by Haru. K, each sold for $675. Galerie PICI placed two works by Dukhee Kim: Gold Desire-Bag for $4,000 and Keep Going (pump) for $2,000. SAN Gallery sold Jenkun Yeh’s Back and Forth I for $2,085 and Huihsuan Hsu’s Chasing a Lush Cave for $1,875. SH Art reported a complete sell-out of works by Backside—a street artist from Fukuoka, Japan, whose true identity remains anonymous—including VIVA, PINEAPPLE, SMILE, VINYL and QUIET, each priced at $17,250.

    Frieze and Kiaf SEOUL continue through Sunday, September 7, at the COEX Center. 

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    Elisa Carollo

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  • Observer’s Guide to the Must-See Shows Opening During Frieze Week

    Observer’s Guide to the Must-See Shows Opening During Frieze Week

    “Mire Lee: Open Wound” at Tate Modern. Photo © Tate (Lucy Green)

    Frieze Art Week has officially kicked off in London with its first openings, as the local community and international visitors gear up for the launch of Frieze London and Frieze Masters tomorrow (October 9). Despite the buzz that some global collectors might skip London in favor of Paris due to the challenge of committing to a full two-week marathon of fairs, the city’s art scene—through its galleries and institutions—has once again curated an impressive lineup that makes a stop in the British capital worthwhile, even if just for a few extra days before heading to the next art week or fair. To help you navigate this year’s Frieze offerings, Observer has compiled a list of the top show openings to check out in London.

    Mire Lee’s Hyundai Commission at Tate Modern

    Visceral and uncanny, Mire Lee’s art probes the boundaries between the technological and the human. Selected for the prestigious annual Hyundai Commission at Tate Modern, she has transformed the Turbine Hall into a surreal landscape of hanging fabric sculptures and epic mechanical installations, reimagining the space as a living factory populated by alien forms and mysterious processes.

    Drawing on the building’s history as a power station, Lee reflects on its monumental scale and how it mirrors humanity’s relentless drive for dominance and control over nature. She has reconfigured the hall into an industrial womb—an environment where human desires and ambitions echo through sprawling mechanical systems. Crafted from industrial materials like silicone, chains, and eerie fluids, her “skin” installations stir a complex interplay of emotions, provoking awe and disgust, desire and repulsion. The work explores horror not merely as fear, but as a gateway to alternative possibilities and future potentialities, as once theorized by Foucault. As Lee expressed in a statement, “Ultimately, I am interested in how behind all human actions there is something soft and vulnerable, such as sincerity, hope, compassion, love and wanting to be loved.”

    SEE ALSO: How One Cultural Agency Is Transforming Chicago’s Art Scene

    Exploring a non-human concept of the body, the Korean artist’s intricate installations challenge the technological illusion of solidity and permanence, confronting viewers with the inevitable decay and deformation of all subjects over time. By staging this perpetual state of transformation and metamorphosis within a post-apocalyptic setting, the artist engages with a new notion of hybridity—one that blurs the line between the products of the Anthropocene and the unknown entities and processes that will ultimately supersede them.

    Mire Lee’s “Open Wound” opens tomorrow (October 9) and is on view at Tate Modern through March 16.

    “Hockney and Piero: A Longer Look” at the National Gallery

    Painting of a old woman sitting and old man readingPainting of a old woman sitting and old man reading
    Detail from David Hockney’s My Parents (1977). Courtesy London’s National Gallery

    Don’t miss this rare conversation at the National Gallery, which explores the inspiration David Hockney drew from the enigmatic paintings of Renaissance master Piero Della Francesca. This one-room capsule project creates a space for slow contemplation, juxtaposing two of Hockney’s works—one portraying his mother and father, and the other depicting his friend, curator Henry Geldzahler, alongside the thread that connects them: Piero della Francesca’s The Baptism of Christ. Part of the National Gallery’s Bicentenary celebrations, the project illuminates the connections that weave through art history, highlighting how it’s been a continuous journey of confrontations, inspirations and exchanges, where artists revisit and reinterpret recurring themes and archetypes according to the aesthetics and sensibilities of their own era.

    Hockney and Piero: A Longer Look” is on view through October 27 at the National Gallery in London.

    Lygia Clark and Sonia Boyce at Whitechapel Gallery

    Two images one a photo in black and white of a woman the other a spacial motif with pink background.Two images one a photo in black and white of a woman the other a spacial motif with pink background.
    (l.) Lygia Clark, Revista Manchete, Rio de Janeiro. (r.) Sonia Boyce, Braided Wallpaper, 2023; Digital repeat pattern on tan wallpaper. Courtesy Associação Cultural O mundo de Lygia Clark. / © Sonia Boyce.All Rights Reserved, DACS/Artimage 2024Courtesy of the artist, APALAZZOGALLERYand Hauser & Wirth Gallery.

    Opening just ahead of Frieze Art Week, Whitechapel Gallery has set up a compelling dialogue between two artists who, despite distinct geographical and cultural backgrounds, have similarly sought to redefine the relationship between artist and audience by fostering greater interaction and a more participatory approach.

    Brazilian artist Lygia Clark, a pioneer of the “Neo-Concrete Movement” (1959-1961), anticipated the notion of Relational Art by developing a new, organic concept of the artwork—one that could fluidly respond to the phenomenological space of the senses. Her creations evolved into “social sculptures” designed to engage and transform through direct interaction, unfolding within the temporal space of community and social cohesion. “Lygia Clark: The I and the You” traces her artistic journey from the mid-1950s to the early 1970s, exploring how her radical approach emerged in response to a turbulent period in Brazil’s history.

    In parallel, Venice Golden Lion-winner Sonia Boyce explores similar themes of manipulation and inhabitation, inviting viewers to engage, touch and experience her work in unscripted, immersive ways. “Sonia Boyce: An Awkward Relation” is conceived specifically to resonate with Lygia Clark’s exhibition, showcasing the strong synergies between the British and Brazilian artists’ experiential, participatory practices.

    Lygia Clark: The I and the You” and “Sonia Boyce: An Awkward Relation” are concurrently on view at Whitechapel London through January 12.

    George Rouy at Hauser & Wirth

    image of a gallery with seemigly abstract paintings of bodies. image of a gallery with seemigly abstract paintings of bodies.
    George Rouy’s debut solo exhibition at Hauser & Wirth London, “The Bleed, Part I.” Courtesy the artist and Hauser & Wirth

    Following the announcement of his representation just a few months ago, the highly sought-after George Rouy is making his debut with Hauser & Wirth in London. The painter’s meteoric rise stems from his ability to resonate with a new generation of collectors, offering a visual language that captures the tensions and contradictions of the body and psyche as they navigate the physical and digital realms.

    “The Bleed, Part I” showcases Rouy’s latest body of work, where he delves further into themes of collective mass, multiplicities, and human movement across different modes of existence. Playing between the “void,” where the psyche expands and projects itself, and the “surrounding,” where the physical body is in constant negotiation with external forces, Rouy’s paintings depict the push-and-pull between these realms, producing figures that are simultaneously fragmented and whole. This tension suggests the potential for a new hybrid human experience, oscillating between the linear constraints of the body and the quantum possibilities it can access.

    The exhibition will continue with “Part II” at Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles, launching during Frieze L.A. and underscoring the gallery’s commitment to positioning Rouy as “a leading figure of the new generation of painters.”

    George Rouy’s “The Bleed, Part 1” is on view at Hauser & Wirth London through December 21.

    Dominic Chambers at Lehmann Maupin

    Dominic Chambers “Meraki” at Lehmann Maupin, London. Photo © Lucy Dawkins / Courtesy the artist and Lehmann Maupin, New York, Seoul, and London
    Suspended between a dreamlike world, a sentimental dimension, and a poetic space of literary references, Dominic Chambers’s paintings capture moments of joy, leisure, love, and life. His vibrant canvases are defined by intentionally surreal palettes that heighten the emotions and atmosphere of each scene. Since graduating from Yale, the young artist has swiftly risen to prominence, making his debut at Lehmann Maupin in New York soon after. Now, for his first solo show at the gallery’s London location—his U.K. debut—Chambers presents an expansive new body of work, including paintings, works on paper and color studies. His visual language has already evolved into something more allegorical, shifting from human-centered scenes to lyrical or oneiric landscapes where figures often float, yet the mood and feeling remain the true protagonists.

    Drawing its title from the Greek word meraki, meaning “to pour one’s soul into one’s work,” the exhibition takes this notion as a springboard to explore how the concept of the soul—or one’s interiority—intersects with devotion and creativity. Rich in both art historical and religious references, the works tap into a more spiritual dimension, expanding beyond the sentimental intimacy that defined his earlier pieces. Deeply influenced by Magic Realism, Chambers’s paintings detach themselves from material reality, moving fluidly between inner, outer and otherworldly realms, exploring symbols, signals and intermediaries that guide us in navigating the layers of human experience.

    Dominic Chambers’s “Meraki” is on view at Lehmann Maupin through November 9. 

    Rirkrit Tiravanija at Pilar Corrias

    Installation view with a forest like wall paper and writings.Installation view with a forest like wall paper and writings.
    “A MILLION RABBIT HOLES” marks Rirkrit Tiravanija’s fourth solo exhibition with the gallery. Courtesy of the artist and Pilar Corrias

    As a pioneer of Relational Art, Rirkrit Tiravanija’s work carries an inherently political charge, as demonstrated by his latest show at Pilar Corrias London. In “A MILLION RABBIT HOLES,” Tiravanija explores the deepening polarization and disillusionment surrounding the U.S. election, touching on globally pervasive sentiments as the world’s balance grows increasingly fragile. Transforming the gallery walls with forest-like wallpaper, he creates an immersive environment reflecting the charged atmosphere of American politics in the lead-up to the election, inspired by his experiences in Upstate New York.

    Known for his groundbreaking installations centered around cooking and communal sharing, Tiravanija’s practice emphasizes human connections over traditional notions of art as static objects. His works often subvert societal hierarchies and behavioral norms, inviting audiences to participate actively—whether through interactions with others or through the artist’s facilitation. In his London exhibition, visitors are plunged into a world of paradoxical propaganda, surrounded by an intentionally illusory, pastoral setting that underscores the fiction of contemporary politics and the false promises of a better future.

    Rirkrit Tiravanija’s “A MILLION RABBIT HOLES”  is on view at Pilar Corrias, London, through November 9. 

    Tracey Emin at White Cube

    Image of a gallery space with a masive bronze sculpture of a body and abstract paintings on the tone of red. Image of a gallery space with a masive bronze sculpture of a body and abstract paintings on the tone of red.
    Tracey Emin’s “I followed you to the end” at White Cube, London. Courtesy of teh Artist and White Cube.

    Since her rise to fame as the queen of the Young British Artists with her unforgettable My Bed (1998), Tracey Emin has captivated international audiences with her provocatively raw yet deeply human art, addressing the peaks and valleys of existence—love, desire, grief and loss—with an unflinching honesty. Her autobiographical approach has laid bare the intensely personal yet universal experience of being a woman, capturing everything from the awakening of sexual desire and the claiming of one’s pleasure to the visceral trials of violence, shame, illness, abortion and menopause. This turbulent inner world of emotions, passions, and sensations is instinctively translated onto Emin’s canvases through bold, unplanned strokes that channel her emotional energy directly onto the surface.

    Emin has never hesitated to confront the most profound physical and psychological challenges, chronicling the unique struggles of the female condition in today’s world. Her latest show in London continues the journey she began with her recent exhibition at White Cube New York last year, presenting a powerful new series of paintings and sculptures that delve into themes of love and loss, mortality and rebirth.

    Tracey Emin’s “I followed you to the end” is on view at White Cube London through November 10.

    Anna Weyant at Gagosian

    Image of two paintings one with suspended legs of a girl the otehr with a girl hidding behind a newspaperImage of two paintings one with suspended legs of a girl the otehr with a girl hidding behind a newspaper
    Anna Weyant’s “Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolves?” at Gagosian London. Artwork © Anna Weyant Photo: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd Courtesy Gagosian

    Every time Anna Weyant stages an exhibition, it becomes evident that beneath the buzz surrounding her private life, there’s an undeniable technical mastery that continues to evolve while remaining deeply engaged in a dialogue with art history. Drawing as much from the refined elegance of Flemish portraiture as from the dramatic chiaroscuro of Caravaggio, Weyant’s paintings are not only visually captivating but also deeply intriguing. They meticulously uphold the Western canons of beauty and “good painting”—executed with precision—but simultaneously disrupt this perfection with uncanny elements that provoke the viewer to question these very ideals.

    Rendered in somber tones and pale hues, her figures often play tragicomic roles, suspended in a dreamlike, timeless space. These doll-like girls move through her canvases with a fierce presence, yet subtly reveal a concealed inner struggle—suggesting a fragile, unspoken vulnerability. They project an image of strength, wielding their allure with confidence, but betray an underlying trauma or insecurity that compels them to seek validation and admiration externally. This tension resonates perfectly with the exhibition’s title, “Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf?” Marking her London debut, the show makes these dynamics of concealment and performance even more apparent. The feminine attributes of her meticulously rendered classical bodies are only glimpsed through small windows, partially obscured by a fabric blind or a newspaper—introducing a fresh psychological layer to her latest body of work.

    Anna Weyant’s “Who’s Afraid of the Big Bad Wolves?” is on view through December 20.

    Alexander Calder at Ben Brown Fine Arts

    Image of black sculptures with metalic base and metal wiresImage of black sculptures with metalic base and metal wires
    “Calder: Extreme Cantilever” at Ben Brown London. Courtesy of Ben Brown.

    Opening on Frieze Masters Night at Ben Brown Fine Arts, this exhibition reunites Alexander Calder’s three unique cantilever sculptures for the first time, presented alongside a curated selection of oil paintings, works on paper and historically significant artifacts. The centerpiece sculptures—Extreme Cantilever, More Extreme Cantilever and Extrême porte à faux III—are on loan from the Calder Foundation and distinguished private collections, showcasing the artist’s boundless imagination and intuitive genius that firmly position him as one of the 20th Century’s leading innovators. More importantly, this grouping captures a pivotal evolution in Calder’s formal and conceptual approach to spatial abstraction, shaped by the seismic impact of the Second World War. Confronted with a world grappling with collective trauma, Calder responded with sculptures that became strikingly evocative, featuring increasingly complex forms that seem to encapsulate the anxieties of an era—a resonance that remains poignant amid today’s renewed geopolitical uncertainties.

    Calder: Extreme Cantilever” opens tomorrow (October 9) and runs on November 22 at Ben Brown Fine Arts in London. 

    “Enchanted Alchemies: Magic, Mysticism, and the Occult in Art” at Lévy Gorvy Dayan

    Painting of a woman with a catPainting of a woman with a cat
    Geltrude Abercrombie, Lady with Black Braid; Oil on Masonite, 8 × 10 inches (20.3 × 25.4 cm). Courtesy of Lévi Gorvy Dayan

    As interest in Surrealism, now 100 years old, continues to rise, Lévy Gorvy Dayan’s latest exhibition in London delves into themes of magic, mysticism, and the occult through a collection of masterpieces primarily by Surrealist women artists such as Gertrude Abercrombie, Eileen Agar, Leonora Carrington, Elda Cerrato, Ithell Colquhoun, Leonor Fini and Monica Sjöö, placed in dialogue with contemporary figures like Francesco Clemente, Chitra Ganesh, Alejandro Jodorowsky, Bharti Kher, Linder and Goshka Macuga. Blurring the boundaries between spirituality, mysticism, and hallucination, the show provides a sweeping exploration of the human imagination across cultures and eras.

    Organized into three thematic chapters—“Occultism and Dreams,” “Magic and Mysticism” and “Alchemy: Enchantment and Transformations”—the exhibition examines how artists over the past century have engaged with occult and esoteric traditions to shape and reshape their personal, cultural and historical narratives. The timing feels particularly relevant as society experiences a renewed fascination with alternative knowledge and spirituality in an era that has “killed its idols” yet still searches for new belief systems amid a pervasive sense of irrationality and uncertainty.

    Observer’s Guide to the Must-See Shows Opening During Frieze Week

    Elisa Carollo

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  • The Best Galleries to Visit in Edinburgh in 2024

    The Best Galleries to Visit in Edinburgh in 2024

    The National. gillian hayes

    Scotland’s vibrant capital city is a destination steeped in history and brimming with character with loads to see and do. Edinburgh Castle looms over the skyline and sits opposite Arthur’s Seat, an ancient volcano situated in the middle of the wild but walkable highland landscape of Holyrood Park. The city also boasts centuries-old pubs, Michelin-starred restaurants, luxury accommodations like Gleneagles Townhouse and stunning architecture.

    Edinburgh’s art scene is yet another draw, and in fact, the city may be best known to culturally attuned international visitors as the site of the annual Fringe Festival—the largest performing arts festival in the world. Beyond the Fringe, however, the city’s thriving year-round visual arts scene offers an exciting program of exhibitions, events and installations in an array of galleries and museums.

    The list below features some of Edinburgh’s top art galleries, but it’s by no means an exhaustive list (honorable mentions include the eclectic Velvet Easel Gallery, the multi-arts venue Summerhall, Ingleby Gallery and the photography focused Stills Gallery). Most of the must-visit art galleries in Edinburgh are free and open to the public, and all offer something unique within the realm of visual arts, from textile works to outdoor installations and more.

    Edinburgh’s Best Art Galleries

    Fruitmarket Gallery

    An industrial looking gallery exteriorAn industrial looking gallery exterior
    Fruitmarket Gallery. RUTH CLARK

    If you’re traveling to or from Edinburgh by train, then you don’t have much of an excuse not to visit Fruitmarket. Built in the 1970s on the site of a former fruit and vegetable market, Fruitmarket Gallery is a small, independent exhibition space nestled right next to Waverley Station, making it the perfect place to call in before continuing your journey.

    Despite its relatively small size, Fruitmarket has shown big names in contemporary art throughout the years, including David Hockney, Eduardo Paolozzi and Nancy Spero. Under the careful directorship of Fiona Bradley, who took the helm in 2003, there’s always something fascinating to explore in the gallery’s three exhibition spaces.

    Recent highlights include “the apparent length of a floor area,” an exhibition by Portuguese artist Leonor Antunes. Her sculptural installations are inspired by traditional artisanal techniques and make use of cork, wood and rope to rethink how sculpture is defined. Fruitmarket is currently screening a documentary film on climate change entitled “Project Paradise” by the artist Sarah Woods, and the gallery hosts Edinburgh’s annual Artists’ Bookmarket, a festival that celebrates artist-led publishing.

    Fruitmarket celebrates its 50th anniversary this year and will be presenting a program of Scottish, British and international artists including work by Turner Prize-winning sculptor Martin Boyce and Ghanaian artist Ibrahim Mahama. There’s also a fantastic cafe and gallery shop to enjoy once you’ve finished exploring the exhibitions.

    Jupiter Artland

    Sculptures in the woodsSculptures in the woods
    Jupiter Artland. Allan Pollok-Morris

    Founded in 2009 by Robert and Nicky Wilson, Jupiter Artland is a fabulous and sprawling sculpture garden located just on the edge of Edinburgh. In the peaceful surrounds of the 100-acre estate, you can plot a route between more than thirty outdoor installations, including Antony Gormley’s Firmament, a giant polygonal structure constructed of steel balls, and Landscape with Gun and Tree, the nine-meter-tall cast-iron shotgun by Cornelia Parker that leans against one of the park’s trees. You can even check exactly how many kilometers away you are from the planet Jupiter thanks to Peter Liversidge’s handy Signpost to Jupiter.

    The interplay between art and nature at Jupiter Artland is often whimsical, but there are more unsettling pieces to unwrap, too. A particular highlight is Scottish artist Nathan Coley’s In Memory, which depicts a private cemetery containing several gravestones with the names of the deceased removed. Site-specific works by artists such as Christian Boltanski, whose Animitas installation sits within Jupiter Artland’s Duck Pond, invite visitors to sit and reflect using all five senses (Animitas has over 200 Japanese bells that gently chime in the wind).

    Recent exhibitions have included a series of raw and deeply personal works by Tracey Emin entitled “I Lay Here For You” (2022), as well as a hugely well-received first solo show by Lindsey Mendick entitled “SH*TFACED” (2023).

    Alongside slightly more adult-oriented artwork, there’s also plenty for families with children to enjoy. Easter time brings egg hunts in the park, while at Christmas, the estate transforms into a Winter Wonderland complete with Festive Donkeys and an Elf Workshop. The permanent installations offer plenty for young children as well, with Peter Jencks’ landform work Cells of Life providing a network of sculpted hillsides and small lakes to explore. Incidentally, you can find another outdoor work by Jencks, Ueda, right outside the entrance to Modern One (see below).

    National Galleries of Scotland: National

    Scotland’s National gallery. Gillian Hayes

    The National is (as the name suggests) the national gallery of Scotland. The building is in the middle of the city, overlooked by Edinburgh Castle, and directly surrounded by other iconic locations including Princes Street Gardens, the Balmoral Hotel and the Scott Monument. Easy to access and mostly free to enter (bar certain temporary exhibitions), the National Gallery is an excellent introduction to Scotland’s artistic heritage.

    After years of renovation work, the gallery now boasts a stunning new wing devoted to the finest in Scottish artwork. Its open-plan design, which features a series of large windows, allows visitors to admire works by pioneering Scottish artists such as William McTaggart and Charles Rennie Mackintosh, while also enjoying snapshots of Edinburgh’s iconic city center in the background.

    For many, Sir Edwin Landseer’s The Monarch of the Glen will be the most recognizable painting on display. The majestic red deer stag sits among a host of traditional Scottish oil-on-canvas landscapes. But there are other jewels in the new wing, too, including The Progress of a Soul, a stunning series of four embroidered panels by Phoebe Anna Traquair that depict the soul’s journey from birth to final redemption.

    The National also offers an array of international art, including Renaissance works by Titian and paintings by Dutch masters Rembrandt and Vermeer. For families with children, the venue hosts an activity space and relaxed informal events for parents and youngsters, including ‘Bring Your Own Baby’ and ‘Family Fridays.’ Finish off your visit with lunch at the cafe, which overlooks Princes Street Gardens or treat yourself to a souvenir from the gallery gift shop.

    Dovecot Studios

    A large open space with weaving tablesA large open space with weaving tables
    The Dovecot Studios weaving floor. Shannon Tofts

    Dovecot Studios offers something different from other art galleries in Edinburgh. Located a stone’s throw from the city’s historic Cowgate, Dovecot is a unique artistic center that combines a working textile studio with a traditional gallery space.

    Visitors don’t have to pay to enter the studios, where you can peer down from the Tapestry Studio’s viewing balcony and watch the resident Dovecot weavers at work. This is a real treat—members of the public can observe works-in-progress as they’re hand-woven in real time. The Dovecot team has collaborated with a host of famous artists over the years, including Turner Prize winner Chris Ofili and renowned Scottish-Barbadian artist Alberta Whittle.

    In addition to the viewing balcony, Dovecot Studios hosts a program of paid exhibitions throughout the year. A special mention must go to the hugely well-received “Scottish Women Artists – 250 Years of Challenging Perception” which closed in January after a tremendous six-month run and celebrated the work of female artists including Joan Eardley and Victoria Crowe. Now Dovecot is playing host to the first-ever showcase of Andy Warhol’s commercial textile designs.

    National Galleries of Scotland: Modern

    A mansion-like building set in a sprawling lawnA mansion-like building set in a sprawling lawn
    Scottish National Gallery Modern One. Keith Hunter

    Modern is the place to visit for Edinburgh’s most outstanding collection of contemporary art. The gallery is split into two buildings, Modern One and Two, both of which are located on Belford Road in the city’s stunning Dean Village neighborhood. The grounds feature a striking landform by Charles Jencks, with other outdoor installations by the likes of Martin Creed to discover along the pathways up to each gallery.

    Contemporary art lovers of all tastes and styles will find something to enjoy here. The permanent collection at Modern One hosts work by big names such as Henri Matisse and Barbara Hepworth and lesser-known gems such as Slow Movement by Eileen Agar. Modern Two tends to focus on abstract and experimental work from the late 19th Century onwards.

    Modern is an excellent introduction to contemporary art and has previously played host to the British Art Show (“British Art Show 8”), as well as recent exhibitions on Surrealism. This year promises more exciting and challenging displays: from May onwards you can visit “Women in Revolt! Art and Activism in the UK 1970-1990.” And if the Scottish weather holds out and the sun is shining, make sure to enjoy the courtyard cafe at Modern One for some tea and scones.

    National Galleries of Scotland: Portrait

    A Gothic buildingA Gothic building
    National Portrait Gallery of Scotland. Andrew Lee

    Last but by no means least, the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland is not to be missed. Its diverse collection of portraits, which includes iconic faces from Mary, Queen of Scots through to Billy Connolly and Chris Hoy, tells the story of Scotland through its people—and the artists who painted them.

    Located in the city center on Queen Street, the gallery building is an attraction in itself. Surrounded on all sides by modern architecture, Portrait is a Neo-Gothic masterpiece. Inside its Great Hall, the beautiful so-called ‘Zodiac ceiling’ has thousands of golden stars and 47 constellations.

    The collection itself is a fascinating glimpse into some of the lives that have shaped the Scotland we know today. And when you need a break from viewing the portraits, you can browse the building’s stunning 19th-century Library and Print Room.

    The Best Galleries to Visit in Edinburgh in 2024

    Rachel Ashcroft

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  • Princess Kate Reopens the National Portrait Gallery with Paul McCartney

    Princess Kate Reopens the National Portrait Gallery with Paul McCartney

    As the patron of the National Portrait Gallery, Princess Kate has donated her own portrait, posed with children, and even curated Hold Still, a show of photographs documenting the UK’s coronavirus lockdown. On Tuesday, she joined Paul McCartney and artist Tracey Emin to celebrate the reopening of the museum after a three-year renovation that cost 41 million British pounds. 

    McCartney has his own exhibition of photographs going on display at the museum next week, and he and Kate talked about their shared love of art alongside his wife, Nancy Shevell, and marveled at the recent renovations. According to the Daily Mail, the pair discussed McCartney’s process for narrowing down the photos to appear in the show, titled Eyes of the Storm, which features images of the Beatles from 1963 to 1964. “Were there pieces that were very important to you personally?” Kate asked.

    “For me, the pictures of John and George particularly, just because they are not here,” McCartney replied. He also joked to Kate that all of the pictures depict times “when you weren’t even born.”

    Emin, a Goldsmiths Prize winning multimedia artist, was tapped to design new doors for the gallery and on Tuesday, she walked through them with Kate. The doors feature 45 images of women, first drawn by hand in Emin’s studio and then cast in bronze.

    “When I arrived, I was anxious,” Emin later told the BBC. “There was all these other things that were on my mind, and I totally forgot about the doors! So when I came up, I gasped—it was a big surprise and that lifted my energy.”

    Kate wore a white dress from Self-Portrait, paired with a Chanel clutch and shoes from Aquazzura, but she wasn’t afraid to draw with a few children when she arrived at the museum’s new Mildred and Simon Palley Learning Centre, which has doubled the space available for children’s educational activities. Along with a three-year-old named Rania, Kate took part in a children’s activity based on the books of Beatrix Potter.


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    Erin Vanderhoof

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