There are few creative mediums that pair as well as fashion and film. The right costumes help advance the story’s plot, while motion captures clothing’s most dramatic displays. This symbiotic relationship has produced some of the most iconic, seared-in-our-brain images over time — and 2022 had a few strong contenders to be added to that list.
From the flamboyant dresses on “Bridgerton” and the glittery and trend-setting looks from “Euphoria” to the alternate-dimension-defining clothes of “Everything Everywhere All at Once” and the powerful, emotional costumes of “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever,” film and television provided us tons of with rich, memorable fashion this year that we know we’ll be revisiting.
The holidays are the perfect time to plunge into shows you missed, catch up on the awards season contenders and indulge in some sartorial escapism. Discover Fashionista’s favorite fashionable TV series and movies from 2022 below.
“Euphoria” season 2
Photo: Eddy Chen/HBO
Costume designer: Heidi Bivens Watch it for: the Y2K-inspired looks, cropped baby tees and bold, glittery makeup. Where to watch:HBO
“Only Murders in the Building” season 2
Photo: Craig Blankenhorn/Courtesy of Hulu
Costume designer:Dana Covarrubias Watch it for: Selena Gomez in early-aughts ensembles, designer jackets, vests and various statement coats. Where to watch:Hulu, Disney+
“Bridgerton” season 2
Photo: Liam Daniel/Courtesy of Netflix
Costume designer:Sophie Canale Watch it for: regency costumes (think corsets, empire waists, bows and brocades) with a modern, sexy twist. Where to watch:Netflix
Costume designer:Kirston Mann Watch it for: the vibrant prints, maxi dresses and beaded accessories that support and celebrate Native designers. Where to watch:Peacock
Costume designer:Lyn Paolo Watch it for: New York sartorial opulence, featuring fake heiress Anna Delvey’s selection of Birkin bags, Oscar de La Renta jewels and Valentino capes. Where to watch: Netflix
Costume designer: Muriel Parra Watch it for: eclectic attires that are a mix of cool, handmade and weirdly fused nerd-punk energy. Where to watch:HBO Max
“Do Revenge”
Photo: Kim Simms/Courtesy of Netflix
Costume designer:Alana Morshead Watch it for: an all-star cast decked out in nostalgic ’90s-tinged fashion, inspired by iconic teen movies and series like “Jawbreaker,” “Clueless” and “Gossip Girl.” Where to watch:Netflix
Costume designer:Colleen Atwood Watch it for: a fresh take on iconic character Wednesday Addam’s gothcore aesthetic with Tik-Tok influenced styling. Where to watch: Netflix
“Black Panther: Wakanda Forever”
Photo: Courtesy of Marvel Studios
Costume designer:Ruth E. Carter Watch it for: traditional African fashion reimagined in a modernistic way, including Ghanaian-inspired tailoring, florid textiles and contemporary tribal dresses. Where to watch: in theaters, coming soon to Disney+
“The White Lotus ” season 2
Photo: Fabio Lovino/Courtesy of HBO
Costume designer:Alex Bovaird Watch it for: the chaotic sartorial choices of upper-class vacationers: Tanya’s Monica Vitti-inspired looks, Ethan’s fintech bro uniform, Valentina’s power suits and Portia’s mismatched Gen-Z wardrobe. Where to watch: HBO
“Bones and All”
Photo: Yannis Drakoulidis/Courtesy of Metro Goldwyn Mayer Pictures
Costume designer:Giulia Piersanti Watch it for: a pair of teenage cannibals donning ’80s vintage, dirtbag fashion. Where to watch: in theaters, available to rent or purchase on Amazon, Apple TV, Google Play, Vudu
“Emily in Paris” season 3
Photo: Marie Etchegoyen/Courtesy of Netflix
Costume designer:Marylin Fitoussi Watch it for: fantastical off-the-runway pieces, Sylvie’s French minimalism and Emily’s Parisian style evolution. Bonus: ripped-from-the-fashion-headlines plots. Where to watch:Netflix
“Glass Onion: a Knives Out Mystery”
Photo: John Wilson/Netflix
Costume designer: Jenny Eagen Watch it for: Benoit Blanc in cheeky Mediterranean outfits, red-carpet-worthy gowns and playful resort wear. Where to watch:Netflix
“Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris”
Photo: Courtesy of Focus Features
Costume designer: Jenny Beavan Watch it for: fantastical French haute couture inspired by mid-century Dior archives. Where to watch: available to stream, rent or purchase on Peacock, Prime Video, Google Play, Apple TV, Vudu, Youtube, Redbox
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We meet Nellie LaRoy (Margot Robbie) in Babylon just as she’s skidded her car onto the front lawn of a glamorous Hollywood house party she’s hoping to crash. She steps out of the car in a skintight red ensemble with a plunging neckline that immediately signals this is someone who captures people’s attention—even in a rollicking bash with an elephant, debaucherous dancers, and a little person hopping around on a penis-shaped pogo stick. Babylon costume designer and three-time Oscar nominee Mary Zophres says of Robbie’s lady-in-red entrance, “We knew that it needed to be striking, we wanted it to be sexy, and we wanted it to stand out in the crowd.”
Director Damien Chazelle told Zophres early on that he wanted to avoid typical looks from the 1920s and 1930s in his Hollywood period piece. But the designer wanted this look to be something that Nellie, a scrappy aspiring actor, could have made herself at home during that period. “She’s trying to get away with as little clothing as possible but still be allowed into the door,” says Zophres, who went through six different prototypes before landing on this look. At first, the vintage-silk top was paired with pants, but then, inspired by an image of a woman from the Ziegfeld Follies, Zophres created a pair of hot pants and wrapped a sarong around it. “Instantly, you know somebody daring is wearing that,” Zophres says. “Someone who’s got a zest for life and is not afraid to take chances.”
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Rebecca Ford, Katey Rich, Chris Murphy, Yohana Desta
TORONTO, ONTARIO – SEPTEMBER 09: (L-R) Sheila Atim, Viola Davis, Thuso Mbedu, and John Boyega attend … [+] “The Woman King” Photo Call on September 09, 2022 in Toronto, Ontario. (Photo by Emma McIntyre/Getty Images)
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The person selected to be the makeup and prosthetic artist for Sony Pictures’ The Woman King had a wide-ranging job ahead of them. Not only did they have to match prosthetics and makeup to several different skin tones amongst the many shades of brown represented in the African Diasporic actors who starred in the film, but they had to color match each woman as she tanned several shades over the course of filming. Plus the artist had to research and build culturally-specific body scars and tattoos while also building a rapport with a cadre of actors, each with her own skincare wants and needs.
Babalwa Mtshiselwa and Thuso Mbedu prep for a scene in The Woman King.
Sony Pictures
This seems deceptively simple, but Hollywood is not well known for giving the top job to artists who are experts at all skin tones. Enter Babalwa Mtshiselwa, an award-winning makeup artist from Johannesburg, South Africa. For her, selecting the proper makeup for a variety of brown skin on film was not a challenge but a gift. Mtshiselwa was handpicked by director Gina Prince-Bythewood to to highlight the ladies and gents – not hide them.
“So what I’m gonna do is this: every time you get a shade darker, I’m gonna go shade darker with the foundation,” explained Mtshiselwa, as she recalled the conversations she had with the film’s numerous actors, including leading lady Thuso Mbedu, 007’s Lashana Lynch and four time Grammy-winning singer-turned-actor Angelique Kidjo. “So whatever you do, if you’re gonna be in the sun, I’m going to match that. So that’s exactly what we did.”
No one had to worry about their makeup being several shades lighter than their natural hue — a mindset that is very affirming on a movie set starring women who in decades past have had to bring this own hair and makeup to set because the person hired had no experience with black actors. This peace of mind made for luminous skin and an ease on set when actors knew their natural beauty was embraced, said Mtshiselwa.
The Woman King, an historical epic about the warrior women of the Kingdom of Dahomey, has since made around $80-million at the worldwide box office since its early September release. Audiences have hooped and hollered about the bold story of the ascension of General Nanisca, portrayed by Viola Davis, who ruled a country alongside a man who was not her husband. They also reveled in how each character looked when illuminated by lovely lighting that embraced the depth of brown skin instead of muting their colors and, of course, dialogue about the story of the Agojie warriors has taken over dinner tables and Facebook groups everywhere.
This true story of the women warriors of Dahomey (now present-day Benin) is not often taught in schools. Mtshiselwa said she first heard about them – and their turn against the intra-African-slave trade – when she saw the Variety story announcing the film would be made in South Africa. After learning more about the Agojie role in government and politics of the 18th and 19th century Dahomey, she was hooked and said she had to get a job on the film.
“I saw a post on Deadline on Instagram and said ‘oh my gosh, I have to be a part of that project,’” says Mtshiselwa, who resolved to use her network to gain an audience with Prince-Bythewood’s team. After showing her CV and her work – including makeup and hair for Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom to Knuckle City, Resident Evil, Netflix’s NFLX How to Ruin Christmas, Sly Stallone’s Judge Dread and the History channel’s 2016 mini series remake of Roots – she was hired.
Starring Davis, John Boyega, Lynch and Mbedu, the star-studded Woman King guaranteed packed theaters and an unlocking of imaginations surrounding what a true story set in Africa could be. The film, with a budget of just $50 million, was widely embraced by many but did bring about some hand-wringing from those who thought it would be solely about the Trans Atlantic Slave Trade, would be apologistic in its approach to slavery or would be primitive in concept. It turned out to be far more than that.
Mtshiselwa, for her part, used good old-fashioned libraries and books (also on the internet) for her research into stylings for facial scars and other bits of realism added in as the women fought battle after battle or trained for battle.
“I read lots of different articles from as old as I could find them, from West Africa, you know Nigeria, Benin, generally west Africa, their culture and traditions. The cool thing about The Woman King is that yes, they were based there in the story but the kingdom was made up o people who weren’t from there. “
Her research happened to coincide with the French government’s decision to return 26 artifacts they stole from Benin, so Mtshiselwa was able to easily study actual art from the time period in question.
“It helped me a lot,” she says. “Cause I mean, for me, if it’s a face, anything that’s carved on that face means it’s either makeup or jewelry of some sort of scarification. So I took that and I just interpreted it in my own way. But it was also quite a sensitive thing because Sony didn’t really want to do too much copying of exact things, for the purpose of just trying to avoid any copyright issues.”
The set was a celebration of excellence she says, and should open doors for more makeup artists – like her – who have decades of experiences under their belt and the chops to do big budget, international films. She also hopes that the success of this film provides more opportunities for storytellers to showcase the wide variety of legendary tales that come from the continent and that more children get to see themselves in such a powerful tale.
With the help of Davis and her husband Julius Tennon (who co-produced the film as part of their firm JuVee Productions), Mtshiselwa rented out a theatre in Johannesburg so that girls aged 12 to 18 could see the movie.
“It’s part of an initiative called a Shero Like Me,” explained Mtshiselwa. “And this is all about being young, black and female and watching the screen and being in love with movies, but never seeing anyone being represented as powerful or strong the way that I always believed we are as black people on a screen. The most amazing part of it is that [the Agojie] are based on real people that really existed and that did protect their country for 300 years.
She goes on.
“Everyone was really excited about the film. Everyone was so moved by this film. Like, I would see people walking out of the cinema, just jumping around and excited and that’s just a beautiful energy. So I think it was a really, very special piece for black women here more than anyone else.”
The Woman King is still showing at theatres and is also streaming on Vudu via Roku.