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  • Paris and the Olympics have changed each other during their summer fling

    Paris and the Olympics have changed each other during their summer fling

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    PARIS – In French, there are no goodbyes.

    Instead, Olympic crowds from Paris to the surfing venue in Tahiti were saying “au revoir” — see you again — as the 2024 Games drew to a close Sunday.

    After the 100-year wait since Paris’ last Games, no one can say when France’s capital and the Olympics will next embrace. But this much is certain: They’re both emerging changed — in some ways for the better — from their summer romance.

    Paris’ third Games — it also hosted in 1900 — have been filled with passion. French fans surprised even themselves with their enthusiasm for two and a half weeks of sports, plunging into the party like Léon Marchand parting the waters for his four swimming golds.

    Marchand, in particular, stopped time with his feats — forcing pauses in play at other Olympic venues because spectators cheered so intensely when France’s new darling won again and again. Other French medal winners like judo icon Teddy Riner and mountain biker Pauline Ferrand-Prevot also whipped up hometown joy.

    Initial grumbling about barricades and other intense security measures that disrupted locals’ lives — not to mention arson attacks on France’s high-speed rail network — gave way to choruses of “Allez les bleus!” or “France, let’s go!”

    There were uplifting stories galore for non-French fans, too. Quite literally in the case of Armand Duplantis, the Swedish pole vaulter who broke his own world record in winning Olympic gold.

    Simone Biles shone, again. Having set the brave example of prioritizing mental health over competition at the 2021 Tokyo Games, she came back to win three gymnastics golds and a silver.

    The Eiffel Tower peering over beach volleyball made that arena Ze Place To Be. Celine Dion’s musical comeback at the Olympic opening, belting out Edith Piaf’s “Hymne à l’amour” (“Hymn to Love”) from the tower’s first floor, was high in emotion.

    Rain drenched VIPs and fans alike but didn’t dampen the wacky and wonderful opening ceremony. Its displays of LGBTQ+ pride and French humor were too much for some: Donald Trump and French bishops were among those who took offense.

    As well as many highlight-reel moments, the Games also experienced lows. The ugliest were torrents of online vitriol targeting female boxers Imane Khelif and Lin Yu-Ting as well as the opening ceremony’s creative teams.

    Still, like all good romances, the Paris-Olympics affair left fans yearning for more. That couldn’t be said of all Games of late.

    China — as host of the Summer Games in 2008 and Winter Games in 2022 — faced accusations of human rights abuses. There was Russia’s doping cover-up at its Sochi Winter Games in 2014, quickly followed by the beginnings of its land grabs in Ukraine. All left stains on the Olympic brand.

    So, too, did the wastefulness and corruption of the 2016 Games in Rio de Janeiro that made authorities in Paris determined to do things differently.

    “Breaking the norms” became the unofficial motto of Paris Olympic organizers, who worked to slash the Games’ carbon emissions and revamp the Olympic model to make it less anachronistic.

    The results were evident. The Paris Games weren’t perfect — can flying thousands of athletes across the world ever be with the climate in crisis? But the French capital provided new examples of how the Olympics can be improved.

    Take the Olympic cauldron, for example: Paris’ use of electricity and LED spotlights to make it seem that its cauldron was ablaze puts pressure on Los Angeles, the next host city, and Brisbane, Australia, in 2032 to not go back to burning tons of fossil fuels.

    Also gone? Expensive new venues that don’t get used much, or at all, once the Olympics have left town. Paris instead widely used existing or temporary arenas.

    Marchand and other swimmers raced in a came-as-a-kit pool that will be dismantled and rebuilt in a Paris-area town where kids can’t wait to splash around in it. Breaking (another innovation) and other urban sports played out on Concorde Plaza, where French revolutionaries removed King Louis XVI’s head.

    When the lawns have grown back, there will mostly be only memories of other temporary arenas where archery, equestrian events and other sports looked as glamorous as Paris catwalk shows, set against iconic backdrops.

    The Eiffel Tower, Versailles Palace, the domed Grand Palais (turned into a breathtaking arena for fencing and taekwondo) and other monuments became Olympic stars in their own right. The use of Paris’ cityscape showed that the Olympics can — and should — adapt to their hosts, not the other way around.

    The sole purpose-built signature sports venue was the new aquatics center in Seine Saint-Denis, where China won all eight diving golds, an unprecedented sweep.

    The northern suburb of Paris is mainland France’s poorest region and had such a shortage of pools that many of its kids can’t swim. Regional leader Stéphane Troussel told The Associated Press that thanks to Games-related refurbishments and newly built swim centers that teams used for Olympic training, much of Seine Saint-Denis has now largely caught up — in pools at least — with better-off parts of France.

    But the city’s ambitions flirted at times with an excess of zeal.

    Making triathletes and marathon swimmers do something that many Parisians recoil at themselves — plunge into the murky River Seine — proved problematic. Its waters were repeatedly deemed too dirty for training swims and forced a postponement of the men’s triathlon — moved to the same day as the women’s race, near the majestic Pont Alexandre III.

    The mayor of Paris, who took a pre-Games dip in the Seine to demonstrate that its long-toxic waters are now swimmable, says 1.4 billion euros ($1.53 billion) plowed into a cleanup of the river is one of the Games’ most transformative legacies. Still, the water quality concerns raised questions about whether many Parisians will dive in when City Hall plans to open the Seine for public swimming next summer.

    Massive security required to safeguard the opening ceremony along the river — in a city hit repeatedly by extremist attacks in 2015 — proved financially painful for nearby businesses that were sealed inside the security cordon and lost customers.

    French authorities also made unprecedentedly broad use of discretionary powers under an anti-terror law to keep hundreds of people, often minorities, they deemed to be potentially dangerous away from the biggest event modern France has ever organized. The use of AI-assisted surveillance also fueled critics’ complaints that the Games are leaving an unwanted legacy of police repression.

    Inside the high-security bubble of the athletes’ village, some complained about the eco-friendly cardboard beds, rooms that weren’t air-conditioned and shortages of some foods — byproducts of Paris’ drive for sustainability and waste reduction. Squaring the circle of how the Olympics can be viable in a warming world is going to be an ever-increasing challenge for hosts.

    Still, the joyful crowds showed that the popular verdict was more positive than negative. The organizers’ slogan was “Games Wide Open.” Seeing such happiness on streets that felt so unsafe when al-Qaida and Islamic State gunmen and suicide bombers sowed terror in 2015 seemed to complete Paris’ long recovery.

    After the Paralympics from Aug. 28 to Sept. 8, normal life will resume. But the Games will keep ringing in Paris.

    A victory bell in the Olympic stadium that winning athletes rang in celebration will get a new home — a restored Notre Dame. The cathedral’s planned reopening in December, following more than five years of rebuilding after its 2019 fire, is the next big milestone on Paris’ horizon.

    The cathedral’s rector, Rev. Olivier Ribadeau Dumas, said the bell will hang in the roof above the altar and be rung whenever Mass is celebrated.

    The chimes will serve as lasting reminders of the Games’ “extraordinary atmosphere” and Olympic-inspired “unity of the French people that was very beautiful,” he said.

    “This bell will be the sign of how these Games have left an imprint on France,” Dumas said. “That really makes me happy.”

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    Paris-based correspondent John Leicester has reported for AP from 10 Summer and Winter Olympics.

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    AP Summer Olympics: https://apnews.com/hub/2024-paris-olympic-games

    Copyright 2024 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.

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    John Leicester, Associated Press

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  • Parisians once scoffed at hosting the Olympics. Now, here come the conga lines

    Parisians once scoffed at hosting the Olympics. Now, here come the conga lines

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    PARIS (AP) — Like most self-respecting Parisians, Mathilde Joannard and Franck Tallieu had been training for the Olympic sport of Olympics-bashing.

    Of course the Olympics were going to be a mess, the couple had reasoned when they learned the Games were coming to town. Like so many Parisians, the human resources executives assumed it would be crowded, or beastly hot, or chaotic, or a pain in the derrière to navigate. Or all the above.

    So how did they end up dressed in rented “Three Musketeers” costumes with painted-on goatees, waving the tricolor flag gleefully for the cameras at the fencing competition?

    They’re not really sure.

    “We just decided to have fun with it,” said Joannard, engaging in some Gallic understatement as the couple enjoyed ice cream pops outside the majestic Grand Palais during a break in fencing on a brilliant summer day. She herself seemed a bit shocked by what she was saying.

    “We’re really, really enjoying it,” she repeated. “I’m so glad we’re here.”

    It seems many Parisians have undergone the same happy metamorphosis. At first pooh-poohing the audacious plan to turn the capital into one big Olympic venue — launched by an even more audacious opening ceremony along the Seine River — many have come to think it was a pretty cool idea after all.

    And they’re taking it all in. Those who stayed, that is. As for those who left, some are sorry to have missed the fun.

    Where’s the evidence of fun, you ask? How about a conga line? At beach volleyball, in the absurdly photogenic stadium nestled under the Eiffel Tower, a crowd of volunteers began just such a line Sunday night. A gaggle of fans joined in, following them around an upper tier of the stadium.

    How about street dancing? The marquee cycling event a day earlier brought countless Parisians into the streets to cheer riders on, a mini-Tour de France showcasing the glittering capital. To the barricades, Parisians went — setting up speakers and dancing, even doing the wave with police officers at one spot.

    Catch up on the latest from Day 15 of the 2024 Paris Olympics:

    Sure, many international visitors were among them, replacing some of the residents who purposely left early on summer holiday. But there have been countless local fans, displaying French pride with painted flags on their cheeks as they flocked to favored events like judo, featuring French star Teddy Riner, and swimming, where France’s hero of these Games, Léon Marchand, was holding court.

    If you were around in 1998, you might have recalled a similar mood enveloping the city when France captured its first World Cup. For days afterward, briefcase-toting office workers rode the Metro with the tricolor on their cheeks. One could often hear spontaneous chants of “Et un, et deux, et trois-zéro” — a nod to the 3-0 score against Brazil in the final.

    So perhaps it wasn’t surprising that at fencing last weekend, the crowd suddenly launched into the very same chant. To one longtime Parisian, that didn’t sound like an accident — and not just because these Games have seen a stellar French performance, with the country’s medal haul currently third after the United States and China.

    “That 1998 World Cup was when we French realized we could be world champions,” said Dan-Antoine Blanc-Shapira, an event planner. “Maybe that’s also when we learned as a country that we could pull off something like this.”

    Blanc-Shapira stayed in Paris for much of the Games. He and his family went to watch women’s rugby and track events, and simply wandered the Champs-Elysées, delighted to see the smiling faces on the famous boulevard.

    “This may not be the real world right now, but it’s a very pleasant one,” he said. “Maybe we should do this more often.”

    Even some of those who’ve eschewed the often-pricey Olympic competitions — and many Parisians have indeed been priced out — say they’ve experienced an unexpectedly pleasant, even relaxed feeling in the city.

    “It’s unusually calm,” said writer Cathy Altman Nocquet. She chose not to attend Olympic events, but was delighted to stay in town. “It’s as if the entire city took a pill.”

    Others noted the contrast between the current mood and the tense atmosphere just weeks earlier, as the country went through elections and political turmoil.

    “This is such a nice distraction,” said Craig Matasick, a policy analyst who’s lived in Paris for 10 years. He and his family left for part of the Games because they thought things would be a mess, but found the city pleasant and much more relaxed than anticipated upon return.

    Matasick’s family of four has taken advantage of the offerings, visiting the Olympic cauldron in the Tuileries gardens, the Club France fan hangout, table tennis and cycling so far. “This vision of the city as backdrop for the Games could have been a total logistical nightmare,” Matasick noted, “but it hasn’t been.”

    Give Elodie Lalouette a medal — this Parisian had faith from the start. Lalouette, who works in communications for a national radio network, applied a year ago to be a volunteer. Now she’s taking two weeks’ annual leave to work at the field hockey venue.

    “I was sure it would be super,” she said during a break this week. “And it has — it’s been incredible.” Most valuable are the interactions she’s had with people from around the world. And, perhaps even more, with fellow Parisians.

    “They see me on the Metro, and they say ‘Salut’ and tell me it’s great that I’m doing this,” she said.

    Some who left have had regrets. Teacher Judith Levy surprised herself by watching the competition on TV nonstop for the first few days. Then she had to leave for Italy, a trip booked months in advance.

    “At the time, I felt like everything was going to go wrong,” she said of her travel plans. “Now I feel like I’m missing the party.”

    Claire Mathisjen, too, has watched it all from afar — on holiday in Brazil. The Paris-based psychologist lengthened her usual August holiday to avoid the Games. But watching for hours on TV, she has found herself transfixed. And while she isn’t necessarily consumed with regret, she does feel something else: pride.

    “I watched that opening ceremony and truly felt proud to be French, and a Parisian,” she said. “We pulled it off!”

    Jean-Pierre Salson would not dispute that. What he’s discovered, though, is that what’s good for the national soul may not be good for the bottom line.

    Salson, who owns a clothing store in the tourist-frequented Marais neighborhood, calculated just before the Games opened that business had tanked by 30-40% — a result of Parisians leaving and non-Olympics tourists staying away. He hoped things would improve after the opening ceremony, when security loosened.

    Contacted again, he said they had not. Tourists had already spent too much on tickets and such, and weren’t focused on clothes.

    Still, Salson will take no part in Olympics-bashing.

    “I have nothing bad to say, I think it’s great,” he said of his country’s successful Games. “But for business, I think we will have to wait.”

    He doesn’t have long to wait — the Olympics are closing in on their grand finale. For their part, Joannard and Tallieu, the temporary Musketeers, plan to keep enjoying events — including at the Paralympic Games.

    The couple are grateful now for a dinner they had sometime before the Games with a few American friends, which helped transform their attitudes.

    “We were doing the bashing,” says Tallieu. “But they were optimistic. You know what? They were right.”

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    Associated Press journalist Tom Nouvian contributed reporting.

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    For more coverage of the Paris Olympics, visit https://apnews.com/hub/2024-paris-olympic-games.

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  • Olympic cauldron is lit by French gold medalists Teddy Riner and Marie-José Pérec

    Olympic cauldron is lit by French gold medalists Teddy Riner and Marie-José Pérec

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    PARIS (AP) — French Olympic gold medalists Teddy Riner and Marie-José Pérec teamed to light the cauldron for the Paris Olympics to end an elaborate but rain-soaked opening ceremony Friday night.

    The duo both tilted their own torch toward the cauldron, which quickly became alit in flames. Celine Dion followed with a rendition of Edith Piaf’s “Hymne à l’amour” (“Hymn to Love”).

    Riner won three golds in judo and Pérec won three in athletics, becoming the first sprinter to win consecutive golds in the 400-meter dash.

    The lighting of the cauldron capped an extravagant four-hour ceremony that concluded with a relay of the flame that included many Olympic greats — from France, of course, but also other countries. Rafael Nadal of Spain and Americans Serena Williams and Carl Lewis were among them.

    The identity of who would light the cauldron was a closely kept secret until Riner and Pérec learned hours before the ceremony that they had been chosen. Their identities were revealed to the rest of the world only when Charles Coste, the oldest living French Olympic champion at 100 years old, lit both their torches.

    Tony Estanguet, the Paris Games chief organizer, said only he knew the identity of “the personality or athlete” he had chosen and he deliberately withheld the information so the secret would not be leaked.

    “I really waited until today. I plan to tell the last carrier today, to try to maintain this confidentiality,” Estanguet said earlier Friday.

    Recent cauldron lighters have ranged from current stars, retired greats and even political figures, and some Games have featured groups of people sharing the honor together. Notables from recent Olympics were tennis player Naomi Osaka (Tokyo Games), figure skater Yuna Kim (Pyeongchang Games), marathon runner Vanderlei Cordeiro de Lima (Rio de Janeiro Games), ice hockey player Vladislav Tretiak (Sochi Games), a group of seven teenagers chosen by veteran British Olympians (London Games) and ice hockey great Wayne Gretzky alongside basketball player Steve Nash (Vancouver Games).

    The cauldron was a ring of flames 7 meters (about 23 feet) in diameter, topped by a 30-meter high (about 100 feet) and 22-meter wide (about 72 feet) hot-air balloon. The design was a tribute to the first flight in a hydrogen-filled gas balloon, made by two French inventors in 1783 from the Tuileries Garden. The cauldron reflects France’s spirit of daring, creativity and innovation and French designer Mathieu Lehanneur created it as a symbol of liberty.

    The cauldron is displayed in the heart of the city, in the Tuileries Garden and aligned with the Louvre Museum, the La Concorde obelisk, the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe.

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    AP Summer Olympics: https://apnews.com/hub/2024-paris-olympic-games

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