The key to their elevated aesthetic lies in the pleats, which add a touch of refinement and create a sleek vertical line that elongates the silhouette. Baraka emphasizes their importance: “To me the most important part of these pants are the pleats and that they’re ironed in a way that pleated pants are. They walk the line between the very formal and the abysmally informal.”
But the true value of these pants is their unrivaled versatility. “When thinking about taking them from their natural habitat, which is lounging, to a cocktail party, brunch with friends, or any smart casual or dressed-up event that doesn’t require a super formal outfit – maybe even say a beach wedding, I can pull this off. They’re perfect for any party where adults are gathering and you have to look good and stylish,” Baraka shares.
If wearing pants in the middle of summer heat is necessary, you’re going to want to make them linen (or, at least, a linen blend). Banana Republic offers the summer-staple fabric in all sorts of styles and silhouettes, including pull-on pants, wide-leg, trendy barrel-leg, cargo pants, and, of course, shorts.
The surprisingly challenging aspect of style: navigating changing trends when what’s ‘cool’ isn’t designed for you.
Long time reader Matt sent an email with the subject line “Gen Z Socks”:
Apparently ankle socks are out and crew socks are in. As a millennial, I’m devastated. Is this true Andrew??
The most important thing to consider, when asking yourself this type of question – especially as we get older – is, “crew socks are in, for whom?”
Gen Z, like every new generation, has taken what’s come before them and decided how to edit/augment/create their own thing. The 18-30 set will always command the attention of clothing trends, retailers, brands, and designers, and they inevitably push the overall cultural aesthetic forward. It’s interesting to see how pervasive these trends become over time; take the older men in my life, for instance. I’ve noticed they’ve started to adopt the same style of fit that I was wearing about ten years ago because these trends have become so culturally widespread.
Most of them would never have considered the looks or fit when millennials started wearing them, but as the overall cultural aesthetic slowly morphs and shifts, they feel more standard or inclusive for the demographics outside of the 18-30 set.
Personal style is a tool used for two things: Tell the world about our personality and who we are; and also to incorporate ourselves into the community. This is a spectrum, where both of those things are in opposition at the extreme ends. I’m ok wearing ankle socks because if a Gen Zer were to judge me as a millennial, I would embrace it as fact and not an insult. The reality that they mean it as one is a reflection of their age.
It is always up to us to choose what works with our personal style and on what timeline it evolves. What’s most important is that you’re wearing things that you like as well as being open to evolution, even if it’s slow.
So while it’s cool to see what the younger generation is into, at the end of the day, it’s about what feels right for you. Whether you’re slowly integrating new trends into your wardrobe or sticking with what you know works, the most crucial thing is that your style feels good to you.
It’s important to realize that as people, we don’t live within a monoculture. What is true about my Gen Z counterpart, even if we’re nearly identical otherwise, will still be wildly different because I’m at least 13 years older. What I’m experiencing at this life stage, the types of people in my immediate community bubble that I value being included in, and what I consciously or subconsciously do to attempt to be viewed as a part of it, is significantly more nuanced than the general question, “how do I look culturally appropriate by American humans aged 10-100.”
The essence of personal style lies in this delicate balance—it’s not just adopting what’s in vogue but interpreting it to match your personal narrative. Something to emphasize about Primer and the “style advice” we provide, is that it still needs to be transposed to your own reality. The examples and aesthetics we show match mine and the other contributors; it isn’t right, I could list 10 types of people without even trying who would find Primer’s aesthetic recommendations incongruent with their experiential observations within their immediate communities. It’s how you tweak these ideas as well as the broader influences to resonate with your personal ethos and aesthetic.
In this way, style becomes a powerful medium for expression, not specifically in an artistic way, but a deeply personal and inherently social one. It allows us to signal our identity and values to the world while also finding our niche within a community. This dynamic is where the true art of fashion lies: not in us as individuals darting from fashion change to fashion change like a school of fish, but in recognizing how it relates to me.
Music has always been a helpful metaphor for me. It seems strange to stop listening to a style of music you connect with because it’s no longer popular with 18-30 year olds. It similarly seems strange to start dressing in a style you don’t connect with because it is popular with 18-30 year olds. And yet, in 10 years I will more than likely enjoy that music as its influences have slowly evolved the overall sound of music into something else.
Take country music for example. I grew up in rural Pennsylvania in the 90s, and artists like Tim McGraw, Garth Brooks, and Toby Keith were superstars. Consumers of that music didn’t connect with the musical sensibilities of artists in other contemporary genres like Eminem and Foo Fighters. Today, the entire country genre has shifted dramatically, heavily influenced by hard rock and rap, with a bit of twang and steel guitar thrown in. Many of the same people who listened to country in the 90s likely still listen and enjoy its current form.
The overall color of a music genre or fashion aesthetic shifts in hue as each generation and community adds their contribution.
All of that is hyper-philosophical; on a practical level what I enjoy about shifting trends is finding the opportunity in them.
Slim and skinny jeans had been a core component of my (and our generation’s) style and a more fitted silhouette still feels more refined when I’m hoping to look “well-dressed.” But I’ve really enjoyed the benefits of including straighter/looser fits now that they’ve become more popular again: I can wear chunkier shoes, they’re no doubt more comfortable and maneuverable, and there’s more clearance as to whether they “fit right” or not.
Similarly light jeans have provided a new tool to dress down other dressier elements like a blazer or button up shirt.
And for as much as we all defend ankle and no-show socks, there’s no question they can be an absolute headache sometimes. No-shows slipping down and bunching up or finding that precise height for an ankle sock where it’s visible but not too high(!). The re-emergence of crew socks gives me the opportunity to use them as a part of an outfit, not just a necessity that I’m trying to avoid drawing attention to. Similar to how Daniel used lighter socks with his loafers in a way I would have never accepted 10 years ago, crew socks with shorts provide different comfort/convenience benefits as well as adding a vintage aesthetic touch.
For me, regarding crew socks or ankle socks specifically, it is not whether I wear them but when do I wear them. I get to use them to my advantage for my personal style. And in a way, that’s a privilege I get as a person not in the pop trend age range. If I were 22 today and surrounded by other young people with a strict vision of what is in or out of style, my sense of what is socially acceptable may be so concentrated that it’s crew socks only.
With every new trend that emerges from the 18-30 set, whether that’s today with Z, tomorrow with Alpha, or in fifteen years with “The Third Greatest Generation” or whatever they’ll be known as, the question isn’t, “ankle socks are out, is that true??” it’s “young people are wearing crew socks, to what degree and on what timeline am I open to including them?”
My advice for this, or any change, is just to make sure the answer isn’t “never”.
We’ve reached peak quiet luxury. Maybe that happened quickly, when influencers flooded the TL with that stunningly resilient trend striving to convince you that all you need to look like you stepped out of Succession was .. Zara? But now, with Stealth-Wealth and Recessioncore still topics of major interest, strange sartorial ephemera of the rich are emerging as piecemeal trends.
From tennis bracelets (and tennis, but that’s thanks to Challengers) to Van Cleef necklaces, it’s the details that become the most unlikely trends. But it’s all about how you wear them. When paired with Gen Z’s Y2K style, they become emblematic. When paired with a Zara set on a West Village girl, she’s taking it seriously.
But you’re not real if you’ve seen what I’ve seen: an army of Prep school teenagers carelessly tossing on jewelry that costs as much as their private school tuition merely to accessorize their school uniforms. And what shoes did they wear with those Spence skirts and Dalton blazers? Boat shoes, of course.
It’s an evil convergence. Prep’s stubborn return to the zeitgeist — Rowing Blazers, I’ll never forgive you — and Sofia Richie’s impact on the skyrocketing interest in Stealth-Wealth. This means people are hungrier than ever to take a peek into the lives of the rich — then steal into their walk-in closets as big as a football field and try on their clothes.
The Sofia Richie effect
It’s been a year since the iconic Richie-Grainge wedding that sparked the Gen Z obsession with old money. Since that year, we’ve slowly been creeping into territory that sends a chill down my spine.
At first I thought it was just one more microtrend. However, I was soon proven so wrong. Instead of moving on, people everywhere made Sofia Richie their style icon. For good reason — she’s a Virgo, her taste is impeccable. But just like fellow nepo-baby Hailey Baldwin-Bieber’s wedding, the stylish ceremony sparked a chain reaction I never could have predicted.
Let’s use Hailey as a case study. After she wore Nike Air Force Ones to her reception, the shoe was ubiquitous. Sorority houses didn’t know peace for years. And it didn’t stop there. Signature pieces of Hailey’s off-duty style became biblical references. Her leather jackets, baggy jeans, and Clean Look vibe were everywhere.
But once a Supreme dies, a new queen must take her place. Sofia Richie answered the call.
While her so-called “old money” looks are actually new — new and custom Chanel, she’s become the face of Stealth-Wealth. It’s worth mentioning that Sofia Richie is a nepo baby whose money and prestige comes from her father, Black pop singer Lionel Richie. She’s not the old money heiress this trend is supposed to harken back to — which, to me, feels subversive.
Nevertheless, the masses are eating it up. Sofia’s transformation from trendy party girl to Stealth-Wealth wife and mother is inspiring to all of us. Though most will never grace the rooms with those who are decked out in Loro Piana and Brunello, we can wear a cashmere (blend) sweater and pretend.
This summer, the Stealth-Wealth status symbol is a surprising one: the boat shoe.
Why boat shoes?
Think about it: what says privilege like owning a boat and constantly sailing or a lake or on the sea? Boat shoes hint at an old-money lifestyle. They say you’re always prepared to be onboard a sailboat, yacht or sloop, that you have a tight jaw, and frequent clubs and restaurants that don’t allow sneakers, and you went to a prep school that has a biz-caz dress code.
I can tick the last box, which is why this trend makes me physically ill. At the sight of boat shoes — Sperry topsiders in particular — I’m transported back to high school. And no one wants that.
I can almost see the hoard of preppy kids in salmon garb and monogrammed backpacks, with their Sperrys as the cherry on top of their Brooks Brothers and Vineyard Vines outfit combinations.
Now, the fashionable set have taken the shoe over. Pairing them with trendy prep-inspired brands like Rowing Blazers and Aime Leon Dore, they’re taking back Prep.
Unlike hipster yuppies who took over Williamsburg and Portland in 2013, this isn’t playfully-ironic. It’s serious. You’ll see boat shoes with summer dresses, Gen Z oversized denim and carpenter pants. What an unlikely pairing — workwear and Prep, the opposite of workwear. Talk about high-low juxtaposition.
How to style boat shoes for summer?
If you’re planning on styling boat shoes for the summer, keep this in mind. Styling boat shoes correctly means achieving a balance between embracing new-age Prep without looking like a Prep school dweeb.
Do not go full quiet luxury with them. Put down the striped sweater and definitely don’t drape it around your shoulder. You’ll look like you’re cosplaying as someone in an ivy league a cappella group.
Instead, pair unexpected styles and aesthetics with boat shoes. They’re this summer’s cowboy boot. You’ll see them with flowy white maxi skirts and threadbare vintage tees. You’ll see them with ripped denim and oversized pants. You’ll definitely see them at the US Open, but you’ll also see them in the club. Don’t believe me? If the office siren aesthetic made it to the club, so will this.
The one benefit of this trend: unlike many other microtrends, boat shoes are usually made to be worn to death. They’re practical, comfortable, and easy to slip on while still being dressy. They’re a less casual option of Birkenstock Bostons and a counterpart to the loafer trend. No wonder Gen Z-loved brands like Miu Miu made their own and Saks is selling their distressed leather boat shoes for $925 a pair! Outrageous.
As they grow more high fashion, it’s a clear sign that boat shoes are here to stay. But they’re not your grandmother’s boat shoes, not my prep-school nightmare. They’re something else entirely. It just depends how you style them.
Whether you’re in love with quiet luxury or eager to experiment with the next trend, you can wear boat shoes with any aesthetic. I just won’t be joining you. God forbid, if LL Bean boots are in for fall, I’m abandoning everything and giving it all up for a beige capsule wardrobe.
For now, I’ll watch timidly as everyone dons a shoe I disavowed in my youth — and they’ll look good while doing it.
All linked products are independently selected by our editors. If you purchase any of these products, we may earn a commission.
It’s always a good time to add a staple piece to your wardrobe — just ask Katie Holmes. The actress — who has become known for her effortless, sophisticated, put-together street style — has teamed up with French brand A.P.C. for a collection full of capsule closet essentials that blend timeless Paris and New York styles.
“I have loved [A.P.C.] since I discovered it. The simplicity of design is born out of sophisticated consistency to details and form,” Holmes, who has shopped the brand since the ’90s, said in the press release.
To bring the line to life, Holmes looked to A.P.C.’s archives, picking out pieces that best reflect her sense of style. “I love vintage and truly enjoyed stepping into the memories of A.P.C. garments of the past. Bringing the inspiration from collections from the early 2000s and working to make them modern and relevant to the 2024 customer was such a joyful and satisfying experience.”
This resulted in an edit made up of classic cotton tees, silk camis, ribbed V-neck sweaters, denim mini skirts, patent leather Mary Janes, and a quilted coat. In addition to the apparel, the line includes a limited-edition pastel quilt (only 100 are available).
“I did approach this collection with the idea of it being a complete wardrobe,” Holmes added. “One can mix and match the pieces to create many different looks that suit one’s individual style. There are day looks and night looks. Professional and playful.”
Katie Holmes x A.P.C. is available to shop online now. Prices range from $165 to $1,330.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Mrs. Knowles-Carter (our country style queen) has rolled out her summer style with denim cutoffs, sheer tops and graphic tees — regularly accompanied by a cowboy hat and boots. At this year’s Coachella, attendees showed up to the desert pairing cowboy hats and fringe jackets with weather-appropriate mini skirts and plain tees. Meanwhile on the spring/summer runways, brands like Ganni and Roberto Cavalli embraced cowboy core with Western-style boots, tiered skirts, and fringed bags and dresses.
At first “Dot and Bubble,” the latest episode of Doctor Who, seems to be borrowing from Black Mirror’s bag of tricks. It’s set on Finetime, a planet where everyone is accompanied by a small spherical AI assistant called a Dot, which projects a “Bubble” around their heads. Within their individual Bubbles, people live their entire lives — group chatting, watching funny videos or performances by pop stars — and they do not seem to leave except to sleep. Even walking is mediated by the Bubble, telling them how many paces to move in each direction, guiding them to the office, back home, and to meals. It’s a very “kids these days and their damn phones!” kind of premise, but again: only at first.
The initially blunt metaphor only gets blunter when the monster of the week is introduced: terrifying slug aliens that are eating the denizens of Finetime alive, as they obliviously walk into their gaping maws because they can’t see past their bubbles. Our heroine for the week, the hapless Lindy Pepper-Bean (Callie Cooke), finds her Bubble’s feed intruded on by the Doctor (Ncuti Gatwa) and Ruby Sunday (Millie Gibson), who spend the episode trying to remotely lead her to safety, in spite of her skepticism.
It’s a clever setup, one that hearkens back to fan-favorite Doctor Who stories like “Blink,” and tropes beloved by writers like Steven Moffat (who, surprisingly, did not write this episode): horrible things at the edge of one’s perception, a hard limit on the Doctor’s ability to intervene, and a world engineered for conformity, with safety dependent on characters’ ability to escape societal gravity. This canny structure clashes with the painfully patronizing metaphor at the heart of “Dot and Bubble” — which writer Russell T. Davies exploits to obscure what he’s really doing.
Image: Disney Plus
Because in between the seemingly lazy satire of the terminally online youth and the chilling thrills of its plot, Davies quietly drops pertinent details about Finetime and what is really happening here. Who are these people? What do they do? Why are they there? Each answer, delivered conversationally in an episode packed with a loud, candy-colored palette, louder social commentary, and one of the creepiest monsters of the season, barely registers. So when you finally get to the ending and the truth about Finetime is made clear, it’s like the floor opens out from underneath you, and “Dot and Bubble” immediately becomes one of the grimmest Doctor Who stories told in some time.
[Ed. note: This means spoilersfor the very end of “Dot and Bubble.”]
In the end, there is no saving the people of Finetime. The first hint was in Lindy’s rapid dismissal of the Doctor’s warnings at the start of “Dot and Bubble,” and that she only began to listen when Ruby Sunday spoke to her. More hints piled up, leading to the answer of what brought the slug aliens to Finetime in the first place: the Dots. The Dots, in their algorithmic service to their users, learned too much about them, and grew to hate them. And it’s not because of their tech-addled brains blinding them to the real world; it’s because they’re fucking racist.
Lindy and the other Finetime survivors refuse to take the Doctor on his offer of safe passage away from Finetime, instead choosing to brave the wilds where they face certain death, just because of who the Doctor looks like. It’s here where the last tidbits fall into place: chilling glimpses of selfishness from Lindy, her lily-white friend group, the fact that Finetime is only inhabited by the young adult children of the 1%.
Image: Disney Plus
Up until now, Doctor Who has been pretty unconcerned with how the Doctor taking on the appearance of a Black man might change the dynamic of the show. On the one hand, this is understandable, desirable even — it would be crass and arguably retrograde to immediately subject the Doctor to racism the moment it became a possible story outcome. It also feels intellectually dishonest to act as if it would never matter. Davies, as the white showrunner who engineered this situation, chose neither trauma porn nor avoidance. Instead he chose specificity: This is how the Doctor’s job is harder now. There are some people who don’t want to be saved by him. There are some problems that cannot be solved by cosmically deep wells of compassion and empathy. There are some people with hearts so mean they will not even save themselves.
“Dot and Bubble” argues that its hero’s role is to stand in the gap and help even in the face of such shocking contempt, because life is precious above all, even hateful little ones — presumably because life can be redeemed, and death is final. It’s hard to accept this, and Gatwa’s performance suggests that maybe such idealism isn’t deserved here. He laughs at the insanity of the situation, and then screams in anguish. Who knows if it’s the right call, but he made one. He tried.
Andrew founded Primer in 2008 and brings 15+ years of men’s style expertise. Known for his practical, relatable approach to style and self-development, he has been a recognized speaker at conferences and has styled work for top brands. Off-duty, he loves photography & editing, and enjoys road trips with his dog, Leela. Raised in rural Pennsylvania, educated in DC, and living in LA for nearly 20 years, Andrew’s diverse experiences shape the relatable and real-world advice that has helped millions through Primer. On Instagram: @andrewsnavely and @primermagazine.
This summer is the season of the skirt. With mini skirts (and micro-minis) making a big comeback, and prairie-style midis being as versatile as ever, there are tons of styles to slip into, including bubble skirts, tiered midis and tennis skirts (call it the Challengers effect). Labels like Aknvas and Staud cosigned the bubble skirt this season, while tiered skirts were flaunted at Louis Vuitton. Best of all, you can style any silhouette with a simple tee and you’ll be ready to go.
Welcome to Jet Set, a recurring feature in which we highlight our favorite accessories and travel must-haves that are perfect for any kind of trip. Travel is back and better than ever, and whether you’re already packing for your next adventure or you’re just beginning to contemplate venturing out again, we’re here to help with all your jet setting needs. Father’s Day is just around the corner, and if your dad loves all things travel, then a jet-set worthy gift is in order for his special day. If you’re at a loss for what to get the adventure-loving father figure in your life, don’t fret—we’ve got you covered with the perfect gifts for the ultimate hodophile.
Whether he’s an outdoorsman who loves all things camping and road trips or if he’s the kind of guy who prefers the finer aspects of luxury travel, there’s a great gift with his travel-adoring name on it.From a rolling duffle bag and fancy headphones to a plush watch roll and on-the-go coffee mug, these are the top travel gifts for dad this Father’s Day.
At that point, the plane crew broadcast a message asking for medical assistance from any qualified passengers. It’s unclear if any volunteered to help Tyson, who appeared to admit to domestic violence in an interview in 1988 and made light of the claims in his 2021 one-man show.
“He was in first class, but we were an exit row and the stewardess was very chatty. They asked us to stay on the plane and landed so paramedics could enter,” the witness told In Touch. “She said something like, ‘He’s a really important passenger so we wanna make sure he’s OK.’ I knew it was him, but I just mouthed the words’ Mike Tyson,’ and she nodded her head yes.”
The plane was delayed an additional 25 minutes once it landed in LA, the witness says. Via statement, a representative for American Airlines tells Vanity Fair only that “American Airlines flight 1815 with service from Miami (MIA) to Los Angeles (LAX) was met by first responders upon arrival due to the medical needs of a customer.” According to Tyson’s representative, “He is appreciative to the medical staff that were there to help him.”
The health scare comes less than two months before a planned July 20 boxing match between Tyson and Paul that is being heavily promoted by Netflix. So far, the bout has prompted two press conferences with the combatants, during which they have predictably challenged one another’s fitness. On May 16, the two met up for a battle of wits at Texas Live! in Arlington, for an exchange during which the two disagreed over who would triumph.
Mike Tyson, Nakisa Bidarian and Jake Paul pose onstage during the Jake Paul vs. Mike Tyson Boxing match Arlington press conference at Texas Live! on May 16, 2024 in Arlington, Texas.
Cooper Neill/Getty Images
The 27-year-old Paul, who boasts a record of 9-1 and six knockouts, vowed to “knock this old man the fuck out,” and said that “on July 20, Mike will be put to sleep, and he will feel my power and I will go down as the man who put Tyson to sleep for the last time.”
Tyson, whose professional record is 50-6 and includes 44 KOs, seemed unperturbed by the 30-years-younger man and implied that his body composition was unhealthy. “I don’t know if he’s in his prime,” Tyson said of Paul. “He’s fat. He should be lean and mean and he’s fat and funky. I saw him with his shirt off though and he’s fat.”
Tyson, who once told Vanity Fair that he’d like to be reincarnated as Achilles upon his death, is now “doing great,” his rep told the Post. Paul has yet to comment on his challenger’s condition, and as of Monday afternoon, Netflix has not announced any schedule changes for the July fight.
Bradley Cooper left Leonard Bernstein behind this weekend, trading the Maestro for another iconic Cooper character: Jackson Maine. The actor and eternal awards hopeful took the stage at the BottleRock Napa Valley music festival Saturday, where he joined Disney cover band Pearl Jam on stage for two songs. The star (is born) turn followed a weekend of Cooper sightings at the event, including a slow dance with Gigi Hadid as Stevie Nicks sang onstage, and a cooking demonstration with NBA great Steph Curry. (Hmm, maybe that means he’s revisiting Burnt, too?)
Stephen Curry and Bradley Cooper attend a culinary demonstration during the 2024 BottleRock at Napa Valley Expo on May 25, 2024 in Napa, California
Miikka Skaffari
Bradley Cooper attends a culinary demonstration during the 2024 BottleRock at the Napa Valley Expo on May 25, 2024 in Napa, California.
Miikka Skaffari
Bradley Cooper’s BottleRock weekend began Friday, Us reports, when social media users spotted him “dancing throughout” that night’s headlining act, Stevie Nicks. It’s the second NorCal jaunt for the couple in about a month, as the pair—along with a little-known duo named Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce—visited the coastal community of Carmel for an April couples getaway.
The “music/food/wine/brew” festival continued for the sobriety proponent on Saturday with a scheduled onstage appearance at the event’s culinary stage. The SF Chronicle reports that the trifecta of Cooper, Golden State Warrior point guard Curry, and World Central Kitchen’s José Andrés drew the largest crowds the fest’s food-focused stage has ever seen, with a 45-minute performance that included Philly cheesesteaks tossed into the crowd, a basket contest between Curry and Cooper (Curry missed three shots), and an “impromptu duet” of Star is Born signature song “Shallow” between Andrés and Cooper.
Did that quickfire turn back into rock star life whet Cooper’s Maine whistle? Maybe that’s why, in a surprise appearance, Cooper joined Saturday night headliners Pearl Jam to perform “Maybe It’s Time,” another song from the 2018 movie.
NAPA, CALIFORNIA – MAY 25: (L-R) Bradley Cooper and Eddie Vedder of Pearl Jam perform onstage during 2024 BottleRock Napa Valley at the Napa Valley Expo on May 25, 2024 in Napa, California. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/WireImage)
Memorial Day is here, and it’s the smart time to refill your summer wardrobe with some smart finds. The best part? They’re all heavily discounted. It’s like getting end-of-season prices before the season even kicks off.
These picks cover all the essentials you’ll need for the warmer months. Think lightweight shirts for the office, casual knits for the weekend evenings, and shorts for everything in between. Whether you’re gearing up for a vacation or just looking to stay cool and stylish on Zoom, there’s something here for every occasion.
Now’s the time to snag these deals before you need them and prices are back up. From sweater polos to linen pants, you can upgrade your entire summer wardrobe without breaking the bank.
A blend of vintage charm and modern comfort. Dense, breathable cotton and a windowpane pattern make it perfect for adding a touch of retro style to your summer outfits.
Faded pocket tees are my jam all year round. They’re great on their own or paired with simple chinos for a decade-less look, or layered under an open camp collar shirt.
Charcoal denim has been my preference over dark denim for years now. It easily swaps into the same outfits but can also be styled in ways from rugged to evening appropriate.
Crafted from premium denim sourced from Japan’s renowned Kaihara Mills, these jeans offer a tailored straight fit that’s not too snug. A hint of stretch ensures all-day comfort, making them a versatile choice for all year.
I’ve had this bag (in a different color) for probably 6 years and I use it all the time. It can be used as a backpack, briefcase, or messenger bag and has a ton of compartments.
Made from plush recycled cotton yarn, the Wellen Recycled Cotton Cardigan Sweater is a cozy and sustainable choice for cool summer nights. Its rich texture and soft feel will make it your favorite layer. To see how to style it with shorts, check out this link here.
I’ve been wearing Levi’s 501 Original Fit since I bought my first new pair in over a decade two years ago. Now, I have a hard time wearing anything slimmer. They were also featured in this week’s article on how to wear light wash jeans here.
I recently did an article called “My New Favorite Shirt is One I’ve Had for 7 Years,” featuring a similar western shirt from Gap. I also have the darker wash version of this Levi’s one and it’s great.
The Timex Weekender seems like one of the few things that hasn’t gotten more expensive over the last 15 years. Simple style built like a tank that ticks like a bomb.
The worst part about hanging art and photos isn’t the art and photos – it’s how expensive the frames are. Pick up this set of 5 picture frames and make a gallery wall or spread them through your place, all for the cost of lunch.
The ultimate way to achieve wood-fired taste with 6-in-1 versatility. Upgrade your summer cookouts with precision temperature control and a large cooking capacity.
These are like the gray textured pair I featured recently to great fan-fare but in a lighter year-round weight. I’m a sucker for chinos with a tab button – it instantly brings up the refined-rakishness.
This piece offers a super cool vintage feel without making you look like you’re in a costume. It’s 70% cotton and machine washable, making it a practical choice for summer.
With a streamlined, buttonless design and a textured knit appearance for added interest, this relaxed fit top keeps you breezy with shorts. In fact, it pairs great with:
For the man who’s looking for something more from his chino shorts style. These have details like the extended tab button, coin pocket flap, and pleats, which have a new found appreciation in this looser fit era.
Todd Snyder is famous for there knit polos – only issue is they’re normally over $200. Made of a cotton silk blend, finding these for less is rare unless they’re in less core colors.
The off-white / natural jean is one of my absolute favorite swaps in the warmer months. Simply take your favorite outfit, slide these in exchange of your darker jeans and bam! Serious summer style.
When we lose layers in hot months, texture becomes a sartorial super pwoer. Simple and subtle, this is lightyears from a white short sleeve dress shirt.
Whether you like it or not, capri pants are back. The divisive fashion trend — embraced by style-setters like Audrey Hepburn in the ’50s and Jennifer Lopez and Rihanna in the ’00s — has (once again) emerged as one of the biggest must-have styles of the season. If you’re mouthing hell no, hear me out: Like many who grew up in the ’00s, I, too, have retired early-aughts trends like low-rise jeans and capri pants in favor of more comfortable fashion, never expecting to wear them again. But while I will never embrace the comeback of the whale tail, after seeing pedal pushers on the spring/summer ’24 runways of designers like 3.1 Phillip Lim, Sandy Liang, and Mirror Palais, I’ve come around to the sleek silhouettes that have little to do with the cargo and hip bone-grazing styles of decades past.
While we may still be a few weeks away from the summer solstice and the official arrival of the warm-weather season, the serotonin-boosting temperatures outside are getting us in the mood to start shopping early (particularly with all the Memorial Day sales coming up). Whether you have a wedding (or two!), a camping trip, or a beach vacation on the summer 2024 roster, this season’s biggest trends have something for everyone. To help sort through the seemingly limitless offerings, we caught up with Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director of beauty and accessories at Bloomingdale’s. From summer wardrobe essentials, like sandals and oversized sunglasses; to this season’s occasionwear styles, including novelty clutches and linen dresses; and camping must-haves, like beaded jewelry, crochet, and more from Camp Bloomingdale’s Carousel, ahead, the ultimate summer shopping wishlist.
Questioning where the intersection is for each of us—and how to find it.
When I was a college sophomore, I went to a conference in Washington DC. There was a J.Crew next to my hotel, and as my sartorial preppiness was starting to blossom, I meandered in on the hunt for a sale. As a broke college student, I quickly realized that I’d made a mistake: J.Crew was out of my price range. But I wanted to treat myself, so I grabbed a pair of argyle socks ($14!) and headed up to the register.
The guy at the register said, “Hey these socks are two pairs for ten dollars right now if you want to go grab another pair.” I’ve never moved so fast. An hour later, I went back and bought four more pairs. I actually still have two pairs of those argyle socks because they’ve held up so well (I seldom wear them because they’re so special to me).
Eighteen years later, I still tell that story because as mundane as it may seem on the surface, it was the first time I’d ever squarely homed in on the balance between affordable, easy, and quality.
And herein lies the problem with shopping for clothing as a man: it is nearly impossible to have all three.
There’s an old adage in the service industry that you can “Pick two: Fast, cheap, good – you can’t have all three.” I think you’ll find that’s similarly true for men’s clothing, so we find ourselves needing to decide what’s most important to us (and knowing when what’s important to us isn’t the same as what it used to be).
The details of each will vary for every individual but broadly, we’re considering:
Affordable: A relative amount that comfortably fits your means and is an easy purchase.
Easy: The level of time and energy needed to get from “I want pants” to “I have pants.”
Quality: The construction of course, but also could be the quality of the style/design, materials, and manufacturing ethics.
Affordable and Easy
In the world of fast fashion, the decision is simple: Get what’s affordable and easy. But the older I get, the more I struggle with the disposable nature of that sort of consumerism. There’s nothing wrong with an eight-dollar t-shirt from H&M, but if it’s going to fade and pill after two washes and end up in a landfill in seven months because the fabric didn’t hold up, then maybe it’s worth opting for the more expensive shirt.
Then again, we’re only talking about a t-shirt, so the question becomes where you draw the line? And I think the answer is that you draw the line somewhere.
Maybe you’ve decided that for lower-priority items (whatever that is for you) you’re going to cruise the sale racks and grab what’s affordable and immediately available. Maybe you’re just starting out in your career, and you need to put the budget above all else. No judgment here, but if that’s you, then make sure you’re ok with knowing you’ll probably be replacing that dress shirt or those low-cost shoes by the end of the year.
The problem with gravitating towards affordable and easy (if you consider this a problem) is that it tends to promote more purchasing (at least this is true for me). I probably don’t need that eight-dollar t-shirt, but given how cheap it is, I may as well, right? But now I’ve followed that logic four times in a month, and I’ve spent $47 on unnecessary items that are taking up valuable space in my closet.
From a practical standpoint, affordable and easy also requires you to accept whatever is available by these brands regarding the quality of the style, design, and size. Brands that fall into this category strangely seem to exist on the extreme ends of the design spectrum: They either don’t have any nuanced detail in design and material or they lean so far into what’s trending this week it has no longevity.
These brands also attempt to simplify things by catering to only a few, averaged sizes. But most people have a hard time getting the length, width, and desired fit perfect, if they fit at all. If you have long arms or legs, are short or tall, or wide or slender, you inevitably come up against the limitations of this sizing structure. It’s cheap and easily accessible, but the overall quality – both construction and design – suffers.
Affordable and Quality
It’s difficult to find items that are affordable and offer high-quality construction, but with a paradigmatic shift or two, it’s far from impossible. After twenty years of buying my own clothing, I consistently come back to the same mantra, as I stand in my closet: I have too much stuff. Over the last few years, I’ve tried to adopt the cry-once mentality with clothing: Instead of having three cheap (and cheaply made) pairs of British tan chinos, why not have one high-quality pair that cost a little more?
If you want to embrace sartorial minimalism (which demands quality over quantity), then you also have to embrace a redefinition of “expensive” and a little bit of patience as well. So you find the higher price item you want at a store like Todd Snyder or the higher end stuff at J.Crew, watch the website, wait for them to run a sale, then you pounce – and this takes patience. But it is a doable strategy for getting higher quality items more affordably. Trying to make this easier is the primary reason Primer runs deal posts.
There are brands that offer affordable and quality without the sale-watching – but you give up on “easy” in other ways. A brand like Spier & Mackay perfectly illustrates this. They’re often described as “budget Suitsupply,” and offer menswear items with an emphasis on notable designs, details, or fabrics at lower price points. But there’s an easy tax.
Let’s do a little math:
Spier and Mackay is selling their chinos for $58. That’s not cheap, but it’s probably the equivalent of two pairs of chinos from Old Navy. The difference? The chinos from Spier and Mackay are made from a higher-quality fabric that will last longer, better resist wrinkles, and Spier and Mackay will custom hem to your specified inseam length, including in sizes you’ll never find in a store.
The downside is that you need to have patience because all of this takes more time then popping into the mall for fifteen minutes. Shipping will take more than two days, and returns may require actually talking to someone on the phone because Spier & Mackay is run by a small team. Plus the free hemming is a bonus, but if you want the option to return it, you’ll have to order them unhemmed and go through the rigamarole of getting them tailored locally. Things also go out of stock quickly, so it’s likely you’ll click on more than one item you’re interested in that doesn’t have your size.
But once you get those custom-hemmed chinos, suddenly that $58 makes sense: Oh, this really is the only pair of British tan chinos that I need, and the fabric and details are noticeably better than other options at the same price.These pants don’t look like they were bought out of a bin because I needed some pants. They look like they were made to fit me. Is that kind of aesthetic work the extra time and money? It is to me.
But, every order off of the internet isn’t perfect. Sometimes it just doesn’t fit the way you need. So now it’s been ~12 days since you decided you need to buy pants, you’ll have to figure out returns by emailing or calling, taking the return to be shipped – and you still won’t have pants.
Buying affordable, quality clothing from a retailer like this requires enough forethought in your shopping process to avoid a “I have no pants for a wedding this weekend” emergency. For many, this level of premeditation for their clothing isn’t in the cards.
Quality and Easy
Buying quality clothing that’s easily attained depends on your situation. Either you have the means to buy whatever you want, so you order the best and don’t look back. Need pants for that wedding this weekend? Go to the mall and find the nicest ones that fit best, without concern for the price. Or you’re on a budget but you’ve realized that you’re willing to pay top dollar for certain products that make a difference for you.
I’m a teacher, which means I’m the latter. Recently I treated myself to three pairs of boxers from Nice Laundry. They were expensive ($68 for three pairs), but I decided if they ultimately weren’t worth the splurge, I’d return them. Not only are they worth the splurge, but they’re now my go-to for boxers. The construction, the cut, the colors, perfect. Does this mean I’m throwing away all of my old pairs? No (I can’t drop another $136 for six more right now). But it means that as my old boxers wear out, I have a source that’s expensive but worth every penny.
For some men, “easy” is of such a high priority they gladly pay extra to avoid the stress. For others, they’d never buy $150 pants just out of principle.
When it comes to buying clothing, you have to figure out what makes sense to you. And truth be told, most of us aren’t 100% in one section of the venn diagram. With t-shirts, I get what’s affordable and easy. With pants, dress shirts, and shoes, I get high-quality, but I’m willing to wait so they’re affordable for me. With boxers, I’ll go straight to the best.
Let us know in the comments where you fall on the venn diagram and with what items.
The newest iterations catapult the mesh ballet flat to its peak, with updates like chunky straps, ornate buckles, embroidered designs, and opaque cap-toes for those who don’t love the idea of a full-foot reveal. Ahead, we’ve rounded up the most-searched-for variations — including solid-colored mesh flats, Mary Jane versions, and pairs with rhinestone embellishments — at a range of price points. This way, you can decide just how committed you are to see-through shoes and play by your own rules. Our suggestion? Style them this summer with a dress, or tailored slacks and a simple tank. Finally, consider a monochrome palette to keep your outfit elevated and chic.
For guys who found their style in the early 2000s, we were sworn off all denim that wasn’t dark. Fortunately for our range of options, things have lightened up.
“We are kind of looking at a piece of clothing that has gotten a bad rap, right?” mused Daniel Baraka, a Primer style contributor who finds inspiration across different aesthetics and decades. “I think when it comes to my personal style, I love the challenge of taking a piece of clothing that is considered casual and trying to present it in a more refined way that just kind of ‘works.’”
Historically, darker denim has been the go-to for most men seeking a sharper look. In fact, dark denim’s dominance over the last 15 years isn’t surprising. But cultural shifts in the past three years have revived the look. But why this shift? And why now?
“I love to live between the lines, I love to live between universes. And so, with the resurgence of the light wash, high-waisted jeans, I acquired some as soon as I could. These are some vintage, classic high-waisted Levi’s 501s,” Daniel shares.
His desire to blend historical fashion elements with modern trends illustrates the thoughtful approach needed when selecting the right pair of light wash jeans.
Initially gaining popularity in the post-war years in westerns and with the likes of Marlon Brando and James Dean in the “misunderstood bad-boy” film genre, then again in the vibrant 1980s and grungy 1990s, light wash jeans have always represented a rebellious spirit.
The light wash jeans worn by rock icons like Bruce Springsteen and Kurt Cobain stood in stark contrast to the formal attire of the continued stiff, big formality found in business and on Wall Street.
Kurt Cobain pairs light wash jeans with a baggy cardigan in 1993
Various subcultures, from punk rock to grunge to hip-hop, embraced light wash jeans as a key component of their distinctive styles. Punk bands like The Ramones paired them with leather jackets for an edgy look, while grunge musicians like Cobain favored their distressed, carefree vibe paired with baggy cardigans.
In the hip-hop world, artists such as Run-D.M.C. and LL Cool J made light wash jeans a staple of urban fashion. Their relaxed and laid-back style became synonymous with the casual, spirited look of those eras.
But as the new millennium dawned, young professionals in their 20s and early 30s found themselves navigating a changing work environment where the lines between professional and casual attire were blurring.
We discovered a compromise in deep, dark, tailored denim, which balanced professionalism while maintaining a contemporary, casual vibe. By pairing these jeans with dressier items, they adapted to the evolving workplace, finding a universal foundation that could be dressed up or down as needed:
The economic downturn of the early 2010s influenced both consumer priorities and men’s fashion, steering towards a more rugged and Americana-inspired aesthetic. This style emphasized “base” garments, such as crisp, dark denim, made from premium materials with a focus on craftsmanship and origin. These jeans embodied a desire for durability and timelessness, resonating with Americans facing financial uncertainties.
As the decades have passed and trend cycles inevitably revolve, we’re again finding renewed interest in lighter denim – but not with the same style perspective as before:
“We’re looking at a way to wear them that’s smart and looks modern. It feels trendy and classic at the same time.” Daniel tells me. We have something today we didn’t have when I published our article in 2011: The ongoing and inevitable casualization happening in society has brought us to a place where even light wash denim can be dressed up. Both of Daniel’s light-wash jeans-with-blazer looks featured here could very well make him the most dressed up in the room in many places.
Today, many who embraced the dark wash trend in the 2010s find themselves hesitant towards this lighter resurgence. The resistance comes partly from the previous “unintentional” aesthetic that many felt was a staple of the 80s and 90s—a style marked by a seemingly accidental casual fashion sense that felt less polished and more spontaneous.
Marty McFly’s double light wash is a time capsule
Many people associate them with outdated fashion faux pas, such as poorly fitted “dad jeans” or acid-wash disasters from the 80s and 90s.
President Obama made headlines in 2009 for his “dad jeans” when throwing the opening pitch at the All-Star game / White House
But in a way, it makes sense for faded jeans to be popular now, even among the die-hard raw denim and selvedge fans from the 2010s. They have likely worn their crisp, dark jeans into beautifully faded light wash jeans over time. For those that truly embraced the long-term promise of dark, raw selvedge denim, continuing to wear them, now faded and as a lighter wash, was inevitable.
A pair of now-faded Tellason selvedge denim made in 2008
How to Style Light Wash Jeans Now
Enter the contemporary casual aesthetic. Post 2020, silhouettes began to breathe easier, with looser fits gaining traction. As a result, footwear, too, underwent a transformation, moving away from the slender outlines to more robust, chunky designs.
Lighter wash denim — with its sun-bleached hue — slots perfectly within this renewed aesthetic, providing a bridge between the past and the present, formality and playfulness.
Analyzing Daniel’s outfit, he paired his light wash jeans with a crisp white linen shirt and a checked jacket. The contrasting white socks stood out, embracing another casual vintage aesthetic and adding a pop against his black shoes.
It was a look reminiscent of the 80s, even hinting at the iconic style of Michael Jackson, the 60s with Paul Newman, or the 50s with Dean before that.
While many men’s fashion rules have favored dark wash jeans, light wash denim can be equally as striking in a modern context, if styled correctly. “There’s a few reasons why it works in the way that it works,” Daniel noted. “The very first is just contrast. We’re working on a lighter palette again.”
A lighter palette, as Daniel explains, is not just about the denim itself but about the overall ensemble. “I talk about palette very often when it comes to outfits because it’s a very easy way to have a cohesive outfit.”
Contrast in style plays a crucial role in defining the overall impact of an outfit. Typically, we have seen high contrast Getups, where dark and light elements starkly differ, creating a visually striking look. Or low contrast with all dark tones, offering a sophisticated, evening style.
Left: Low contrast Right: High contrast
However, the versatility of contrast also allows for lighter, low contrast combinations, which blend similar tones to create a seamless aesthetic:
Low contrast with similar hues
Before the resurgence of light wash denim, achieving such a look typically required substituting jeans with lighter alternatives like chinos or linen trousers. Now, light wash jeans reintroduce denim into the low contrast equation, offering a stylish yet understated option for creating outfits that are both cohesive and suited to the demands of the spring and summer seasons.
When exploring the range of lighter shades available, it’s important to consider the overall vibe they bring to an outfit. Opting for “organic” shades that look naturally faded can provide a more refined look compared to more eccentric acid wash or overly distressed styles. This choice in shade and wash plays a significant role in crafting an outfit that feels both modern and authentically vintage.
“I’ve worn these denim jeans in more casual outfits and less casual ones,” Daniel adds, illustrating the adaptability of light wash jeans across various settings. Continuing the style requirement introduced at the turn of the century, this flexibility is key in a wardrobe that values both function and style, enabling an effortless approach to everyday dressing.
How to Incorporate Lighter Wash Jeans into Your Style
For the everyday guy, wearing lighter denim again might come with a fear of returning to an old way of dressing. But with a few simple ideas, even the most style-averse gentleman can gracefully integrate light wash denim into his intentional wardrobe:
Start Simple: Before diving deep, begin with a classic, straight fit like the Levi’s 501s. It’s enduring, versatile, and provides a great foundation to build upon.
Focus on Fit: While loose silhouettes are in, it’s essential to find a fit that complements your personal style and body type. Avoid overly baggy or skin-tight options. Choose an inseam that allows a subtle break but not excess stacks.
Pair with Staples: Don’t overthink it. Start by wearing your light wash jeans with wardrobe staples like solid-colored tees, polo shirts, or a classic white button-down. It’s a fail-safe combo that always works.
Footwear Fundamentals: Whether it’s your white sneakers, casual loafers, or leather lace-ups, light wash denim pairs effortlessly. The key is to match the silhouette of the shoes with the fit of the jeans. Looser pants feel complemented by chunkier footwear. To further avoid the Dad jean look, don’t wear your straight fit light wash denim with modern running sneakers.
Trust the Process: Style, at its core, is about personal expression. Over time, with experimentation, you’ll discover combinations that resonate with your personal style. Give it time and trust the journey.
While dark denim will always have its revered spot, light wash is offering a welcome addition to the options we have. So, for those also looking to live “between the lines” or simply searching for a change, light wash denim might just be the modern (and vintage) twist you’re after.
Deconstructed denim, and specifically patchwork pieces, was one of 2023’s biggest denim trends, and it predictably filtered down into the street style looks at the autumn/winter 2024 shows earlier this year. And while we saw this aesthetic in the street style at AFW, denim looked a little bit different on the runway. At Acler, panelled denim jackets offered a more polished iteration of the trend, while Injury went for a more shredded look, with frayed seams and trailing denim strips.