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Ebony-Renee Baker
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US Military
The field jacket’s journey into menswear began during World War II, the first version, the M-41, debuted in 1941 to replace the wool service coats used in World War I. Despite its practical intent, the M-41 had shortcomings. Its insulation was minimal, its protection against rain and wind was poor, and its olive drab color faded quickly, reducing its effectiveness as camouflage. Soldiers often regarded it as inadequate for combat, but its widespread use was driven more by necessity than its actual performance.
Marines in the Peleliu islands in 1944 National Archives
By 1943, the M-41 was replaced by the M-43, a significant improvement designed for the harsh European winters. It featured a longer, hip-length cut, added pockets, a detachable hood, and a waist drawstring, providing more versatility in cold weather. The M-43 set a new standard, but its successor, the M-50, compromised some of the practical features, making it less effective as a combat garment.
The turning point for the field jacket came with the introduction of the M-65 in 1965. Designed by Alpha Industries, the M-65 was crafted from a blend of nylon and cotton sateen (“NYCO”), providing superior weather resistance. This version retained the classic hip-length cut, olive green color (OG-107), and the utility-driven design that made the M-43 popular. However, the M-65 introduced some key innovations that set it apart. Most notably, it featured a built-in hood that could be stowed inside the collar with a zip closure, replacing the earlier detachable hood system. The jacket’s front zipper was covered by a snap-button storm flap, and Velcro replaced the traditional button cuffs for easier adjustment. These updates made the M-65 highly versatile, adapting to unpredictable weather and offering better protection in the varied climates of the Vietnam War.
The M-65 quickly became a staple in the U.S. military, serving through the Vietnam War and permeating civilian culture.
@primermagazine Fall jacket guide: the m65 field jacket
Over the decades, the M-65 has appeared in numerous colors and camouflage patterns, while its influence on outerwear remains evident in the design of modern field jackets.
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Andrew Snavely
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Just because the 76th Primetime Emmy Awards celebrate achievements on the small screen, the Emmys 2024 red carpet proves that TV stars are capable of big fashion moments. When honorees, presenters, and more walked the red carpet Sunday evening at Los Angeles’ Peacock Theater, they showed off some truly awards-worthy style.
And what style it was! We had the flyaway collar of host Dan Levy, who was joined by his equally dapper father and co-host Eugene Levy for some hysterical bits onstage. Kathy Bates sparkled in blue, while Selena Gomez chose lush velvet for her ensemble. Ayo Edibiri channeled Nollywood in lively custom Bottega Veneta, and Meryl Streep couldn’t be called anything but pretty in pink in her rosy suit. Jonathan Bailey gave sternum, while Tyler James Williams showed off some well-toned upper arm.
The night’s big winners onstage included Hacks, which pulled an upset to win best comedy series over predicted victor The Bear, Shogun, which set a new record for Emmys in a single season with a whopping 18 statues including best drama, and four wins apiece for Baby Reindeer and The Bear. Of course, you can catch up with Vanity Fair‘s complete winners list right here.
But when it comes to scoping out truly outstanding fashion, it’s those enthusiasts at home who are really winning, getting to take it all in. You won’t have to go far to see the style the night had to offer: Check out all the Emmy Awards fashion, outfits, and looks from the red carpet in one place below.
Hungry for even more? Check out VF’s expert picks for the night’s best-dressed stars at the 2024 Emmys and relive all the night’s biggest winners in our minute-to-minute liveblog of the night.
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Maggie Coughlan, Kase Wickman, Kia D. Goosby, Miles Pope
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Looking back on her initial resistance to creating clothes for women, former menswear designer Colleen Allen laughs. When she was working at The Row, she says, “they asked me to design women’s, and I was like, ‘No, I don’t want to do that!’ I was very rigid. I felt like everything had been said in women’s and there was more to say in men’s. But, eventually, there was an itch at the back of my brain. I realized that there were ideas I wanted to explore.”
Those ideas—identity, spirituality, community—culminated in February in the 28-year-old designer’s New York Fashion Week debut, an imaginatively conceived, tenderly executed exploration of femininity anchored by that often maligned archetype: the witch. It was while she was researching how witches have been portrayed over the centuries, she says, that “something clicked for me.”
Models (from left) MJ Herrera, Ayak Veronica, Serena Wilson, Sylke Golding, and JoAni Johnson wear Colleen Allen clothing and accessories.
Allen, who is now based in Brooklyn, grew up in the suburbs of Chicago. Her grandmother, a quilter, taught her to sew, and weekend classes in illustration and clothing construction—one instructor was Shane Gabier, of Creatures of the Wind—gave her the foundation to seriously pursue becoming a fashion designer. She arrived at Parsons School of Design in 2014 but headed to Central Saint Martins, in London, for what was supposed to be a junior year abroad. She liked it so much that she persuaded the administration to let her stay on. Allen credits the combination of the two schools’ approaches—rigorous technical training at Parsons, and a studio-based format that stresses research and collaboration at Saint Martins—with giving her a solid footing in both design and production.
Three years at The Row further honed these skills. Once she started pondering womenswear, she quit, took on a few freelance design gigs, and began the process of turning her mental catalog of images and thoughts into a coherent statement. An online lecture by the art historian Susan Aberth led her to the tarot deck of the Surrealist artist Leonora Carrington, an English beauty who, in 1937, horrified her straitlaced family by running away to France with the painter and sculptor Max Ernst, who was not only married but also 26 years her elder. Brightly colored and shining with silver and gold leaf, Carrington’s cards, first created in 1955, depict feminine energy that is fecund and irrepressible: Her Empress is Medusa-haired and pregnant; her Hanged Man and the Devil have androgynous features. Carrington based her imagery in part on the practice of witchcraft in Mexico, where she spent most of her life, and on the 19th-century secret society Golden Dawn Order, from which Wicca takes inspiration.
Ayak Veronica wears a Colleen Allen dress and cap.
Allen’s interpretation of the witch is less esoteric and more immediately relevant: a woman who is independent and self-empowered. This translates into clothes that reject the bourgeois stereotypes that have bedeviled fashion recently. There are ruffled pantalettes, which sound jokey but aren’t. The collection’s standout piece is a lightly fitted jacket that resembles an intricately seamed Victorian bodice. It fastens with silver hooks and eyes, a nod to a designer whose work Allen admires: Claire McCardell, who loved the subversive appeal of visible hardware. The ruffled shorts are in cotton, while the jacket is made from polar fleece, a fabric that the forward-looking McCardell, who died in 1958, would surely have embraced. The latter piece was inspired by the garb of storybook witches—call it Salem chic—and by a trip to the Scottish Highlands, where Allen was struck by the disparity between the ancient, epic grandeur of the landscape and her 21st-century hiking gear. Wear the jacket and shorts together, and you have a renegade suit that is both practical and distinctive—and, as Allen puts it, gives you “a warm feeling, like there’s a ritualistic presence as you’re walking around doing your everyday thing.”
Less specifically witchy are an orange velvet cape that falls in deep folds from the shoulder and a magenta wrap-and-tie wool jersey top that swaddles the torso. Both, however, are linked to Allen’s interest in religious rites. Orange is associated with spiritual awareness; think of the robes of Buddhist and Hindu monks. Allen conceived of the top after observing young mothers with their babies bundled tightly against them at a Shinto shrine in Japan. “Being held that way, in a spiritual place, was really powerful,” she says. “Plus, I like having a more personal relationship with your clothes than just when you put something on.”
Ayak Veronica and Golding wear Colleen Allen clothing and accessories.
But it’s the character of the witch that animates this collection, and Allen feels that it’s time to celebrate her power. In Jungian psychology, the witch represents the shadow self, the appetites and instincts that we prefer not to acknowledge: rage, sadness, greed, loneliness. It’s a big concept—but, at its best, fashion takes inarticulate ideas and gives them physical expression. “What you put on has transformative power,” Allen says. “I wanted to access that version of myself—the witch—embody it, and then create that space for other women.” For a designer who once thought she had nothing to say about womenswear, it’s the start of a provocative conversation.
Hair by Junya Nakashima for Oribe at Streeters; Makeup by Marco Castro AMAZONICOIL at Born Artists; Models: Ayak Veronica at New York Models, JoAni Johnson at The 11:14 Agency, MJ Herrera at One Management, Serena Wilson at The Society Management, Sylke Golding at Muse Model Management; Casting by DM Casting; Casting Assistants: Brandon Contreras, Evagria Sergeeva; Produced by Photobomb Productions; Senior Creative Producer: Kevin Warner; Project Manager: Nick Lambrakis; Photo Assistants: Mark Jayson Quines, Ashley McLean; Fashion Assistant: Celeste Roh; Hair Assistants: Christine Moore, Vincent Tobias; Makeup Assistants: Shoko Kodama, Arias Roybal; Tailor: Lindsay Wright; Special Thanks to NYC Park Isham Park & Bruce’s Garden.
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Humeara Mohamed
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While mini skirts and micro-shorts have already been in the zeitgeist, designers made a case for bloomers as the next barely-there style to watch. They’re no longer just for underpinnings, as confirmed by collections from Tanner Fletcher, Markarian, and Aknvas. This nostalgic trend is best accompanied by romantic details like lace, ruching, and embellishment — all of which are consistent trends across the recent runways.
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Kendall Becker
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Irina Grechko
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New arrivals, modern classics.
There’s something undeniably special about fall. Maybe it’s the crisp air, the kaleidoscope of leaves, or the socially questionable excuse to consume pumpkin-flavored everything. But for me—and I’m guessing for you too—it’s the absolute best season for men’s style. Layering becomes second nature, textures take center stage, and rich colors make even the simplest outfits look thoughtfully put together. Dressing well in the fall isn’t just easy; it’s almost inevitable.
Every year, as summer fades, I find myself genuinely excited to swap out lightweight fabrics for something with a bit more substance. So grab your preferred fall beverage (I’m partial to a classic mulled cider), settle in, and let’s dive into my list of new fall finds that not only embrace the season’s best but also offer enduring style you’ll appreciate long after the leaves have fallen.
A new soft button up alternative
Combining the texture of a thermal, the softness of a sweatshirt, and the weight of a light flannel, a cotton waffle shirt is the silhouette of your favorite button up.
Insulated Commuter Shirt Jacket
Sometimes you don’t need a mega-thick cozy layer – the morning just calls for something light to kill the chill.
A budget-friendly Barbour alternative
A rugged classic, the field-style waxed canvas jacket pairs well with a t-shirt and jeans or a more dressed up Getup.
Re-discovering the blazer in a comfortable alternative
Outside of specific professions or subcultures, many of us don’t find the need to dress up with a blazer very often. But mashup a sweatshirt with the cut of a blazer and you get the French terry blazer, an easy-to-wear alternative to a sweater or lightweight jacket that gives even the simplest outfits an edge of refinement without looking out of place.
Or go the other way with a cool riff on the trucker jacket that doesn’t add flash
Gap takes the Type III trucker design and brings in the Scottish menswear pattern Houndstooth in a wool-blend. Old British hunting jacket meet Americana.
A minimalist leather jacket that still has some edge
The suede Garage Jacket has the wear-it-anywhere silhouette, collar, and crop of a trucker jacket with the streamlined front of a bomber.
Or for half the price, go for a moleskine bomber
Moleskine is a menswear staple that’s made out of cotton and brushed to have a suede-like texture. Traditionally used for suit jackets and pants, Flint & Tinder created a lightweight bomber out of it.
A looser fit chino
Maintain your comfort into fall embracing the relaxed silhouettes reemerging in the last several years. A straight fit, while still nailing a refined inseam length keeps everything looking intentional, not sloppy.
Classic fit Italian corduroy suit jacket
For a more traditional blazer alternative to the knit terry option above, the corduroy suit (and plenty of other 80s favorites) easily layers over a zip-up hoodie or a rugby polo as J.Crew has styled here. Soft, plenty of texture, and more affordable than many of its wool counterparts – what’s not to love?
Or a budget alternative
If you don’t need to splurge for the Italian cotton of the J.Crew version, Lands’ End has a more conservative notch lapel at half the price.
The heavyweight overshirt
You know the comfort of laying under a heavy blanket? Imagine it’s a shirt. Heavyweight utility workshirts like these soft premium versions from Relwen have the enduring details of decades past with an already broken-in feel.
A quilted jacket
The office friendly hoodie
One of our core style tenets at Primer is to consciously invest in nicer versions of the pieces you wear the most. If you’re a hoodie man looking for something with a little more refinement than your usual go-to this cashmere waffle knit hoodie is a brilliant upgrade.
Large vintage plaid flannels
Layer it over a tee or under a jacket, and you’ve got a versatile piece that brings both warmth and character to any outfit. The bold plaid patterns aren’t just eye-catching—they’re a nod to 70 years of style that’s as at home in the city as it is on a weekend getaway.
Textured wrinkle resistant cotton dress pants
Strap on your favorite chunky boots and your go-to fall shirt and jacket combo and you’ve got yourself a smart casual outfit that’ll rock you all the way to winter.
A knit chore jacket
One part sweater, one part shirt jacket, this knit version of the chore coat is a minimalist’s dream. See 12 chore coat picks we’re keen on right now.
Add some iconic fall texture
A cable knit sweater has deep roots in seaside and maritime tradition but it’s also core American prep.
Or go the opposite way
When we talk about “texture,” in an outfit that doesn’t necessarily mean intricate and heavy knits. The super-smooth Italian merino wool on this pullover sweater is perfect for fall temps and looks effortlessly refined. I like this one because of the larger, button-less collar that feels retro but not costume-y.
What kind of fall list would this be without a —
Shawl collar cardigan. It is Primer after all.
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Andrew Snavely
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Whether it’s sky, powder, cobalt, or navy, a sea of blues is ready to wash over your wardrobe this fall, as modeled by European brands from Prada to Louis Vuitton to Saint Laurent on the runways. Brighter tones make for punchy statements, while deeper shades align with the timeless elegance of the quiet luxury aesthetic. From bold, structured pieces to flowing, ethereal designs, these shades of blue offer a versatile range of options.
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Laura Lajiness Kaupke
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Ebony-Renee Baker
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Accessories have been — and remain — one of the most essential pieces to 3.1 Phillip Lim’s business puzzle. Most iconically, there’s the Pashli, which was introduced in 2011 and was inspired, simply, by people on bikes: “I was so enchanted with this idea of, when I traveled to different cities where the mode of transportation was bicycles, I would see the most chic people on them. It was so effortless in the way they conducted themselves, but also looking so put-together.” It became the brand’s first “it” bag, frequently photographed on the arms of influencers (before they were called that) at fashion week, and inspiration for one of the most popular styles from the Target collaboration. (Leung, for one, still has her first-gen Pashli in her closet. Maguire’s hoping for a Pashli renaissance in his upcoming collection.)
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Ana Colon
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While last year’s Venice Film Festival was a quieter, more subdued occasion than usual due to the SAG-AFTRA and WAG strikes, the 2024 iteration is expected to bring the usual array of A-list filmmakers and celebrities to the Palazzo del Cinema on the Lido for a week and a half of premieres, screenings and parties.
Isabelle Huppert is the 2024 jury president, and this year’s cinematic line-up is packed with some of the most anticipated movies of the year. Todd Phillips’ Joker: Folie à Deux, starring Joaquin Phoenix and Lady Gaga, is set to premiere at the Venice Film Festival, as is Luca Guadagnino’s Queer (with Daniel Craig and Jason Schwartzman), Pablo Larrain’s Maria (starring Angelina Jolie) and Halina Reijn’s Babygirl (Nicole Kidman), among many others. Tim Burton’s Beetlejuice Beetlejuice, screened out of competition, will open the festival.
Along with plenty of must-see films, the stars also bring their sartorial best for the glamorous film festival in Venice, Italy, strutting down the red carpet in fashionable designs—this is, after all, the very event that brought us couture moments like Florence Pugh’s dazzling black glitter Valentino ensemble at the Don’t Worry Darling premiere, along with Zendaya’s custom leather Balmain dress in 2021 and Dakota Johnson in bejeweled Gucci.
The 81st annual Venice International Film Festival kicks off on August 28 and runs through September 7, which means a whole lot of high-fashion moments are headed for Lido. Below, see the best red carpet fashion from the 2024 Venice Film Festival.
in Chloe
in Schiaparelli
in Balenciaga
in Brunello Cucinelli
in Christian Dior
in Burberry
Craig in Loewe, Weisz in Versace
in Loewe
in Loewe
in Genny
in Loewe
in Loewe
in Erdem
in Alaia
in Armani Privé
in Bottega Veneta
in Alaia
in Chanel
in Vania Romoff
in Balenciaga
in Lenny Niemeyer
in Fendi
in Louis Vuitton
Amal Clooney in Versace
in Alexis Mabille
in Armani Privé
in Louis Vuitton
in Louis Vuitton
in Chanel
in Gucci
in Prada
in Louis Vuitton
in Gucci
in Iris van Herpen
in Ralph Lauren
in Louis Vuitton
in Brioni
in Giorgio Armani
in Armani Privé
in Giorgio Armani
in Armani Privé
in Burberry
in Schiaparelli
in Armani Privé
in Giorgio Armani
in Chanel
in Bottega Veneta
in Giorgio Armani
in Giorgio Armani
in Armani Privé
in Giorgio Armani
in Giorgio Armani
in Armani
in Milla Nova
in Versace
in Louis Vuitton
in Louis Vuitton
in Tamara Ralph
in Loewe
in Schiaparelli
in Dior
in Etro
in Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
in Max Mara
in Armani Privé
in Louis Vuitton
in Versace
in Prada
in Saint Laurent
in Moschino
in Chanel
in Dior
in Chanel
in Oscar de la Renta
in Zegna
Bellucci in Vivienne Westwood
in Armani Privé
in Balenciaga
in Chanel
in Armani Privé
in Alberta Ferretti
in Ermanno Scervino
in Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
in The Andamane
in Dolce & Gabbana
in Armani Privé
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Morgan Halberg
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Patricia Karounos
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Alexa Chung is aware of the current indie sleaze obsession, the one that has Zoomers who were still on the bottle back in the aughts and 2010s dressing like the cast of Skins and ditching AirPods for its wired ancestors. The proto-influencer is content with her place in nostalgia culture, despite being only 40 years old. “We had the time of our lives,” Chung tells W of her days partying with Harley Viera-Newton at Sway while getting photographed by Cobrasnake. She only hopes those replicating the look of the era are having just as much fun as she did.
But if those smudged eyeliner-wearing, Nikon-toting hipster hopefuls think Chung’s new collaboration with Madewell—out today—will mark a return to her former aesthetic, they should stick to buying old American Apparel on Depop. Back in 2010, Chung released her first collection with the denim-forward brand, a true time capsule made up of velvet mini dresses with Peter Pan collars and cuffed skinny jeans. Now, almost 15 years later, the designs have matured with Chung, and this new collection lives squarely in the year 2024, with the perfect straight-leg jeans, chambray shirts, and that Americana edge sweeping fashion right now. Below, Chung discusses her reverence for the 2010s and the Nora Ephron advice she wishes she followed in her twenties.
You have a very long history with Madewell. Can you tell me a little bit about it?
Madewell, my awkward ex [laughs]. We met and fell in love in 2010. It was the first fashion line I had ever done and it was quite rare at the time. They took a bold leap of faith to work with me, someone who was just bobbing around wearing clothes. But it worked quite well in the end and we ended up doing a couple collaborations together.
Let’s discuss those first collections with Madewell. They were quintessentially 2010.
There’s so much from those first collections that I still stand by and love, and then there are other elements that really speak to that era. I used to doodle a lot and some of the T-shirts have my doodles on them. There was one shirt we made that had a bat with the word, “Hello” across the chest, and for years it was ripped off. It became a Brooklyn emblem.
Okay, let’s fast forward 15 years. Tell me about this new collection.
I closed my own label [in 2022] and was recently saying to friends that I would still love to make denim again. That was the main thing I missed from being able to create under my own company. Then, Madewell reached out and asked, “Would you like to make some things again?” and they said I could do denim.
Chung at the Alexa Chung for Madewell launch party in 2010.
Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images
This collection is definitely a much more grown-up version of where we last left off. It’s true to the type of wardrobe I am seeking out now, which is more pared-down. We were conscious of what people actually want to wear and hold onto for a long time, so I was looking at the classics. Trying to nail the perfect jeans in the perfect wash—that was important to me.
Let’s get into some Style Notes questions. For years, your style journey has been on display for the world to see. Do you ever look back at images and cringe a little?
I definitely cringe. I get punked on Instagram quite a lot. People tag me in old pictures of myself, but often it’s less the clothes, and more my hair. I don’t know why I spent so long with such a bad haircut. It just straight up didn’t suit me, so that keeps me awake at night.
Also, the dorkiness of my style bums me out. I don’t know why I spent the prime of my life trying to look completely sexless. That boggles the mind a little bit. Maybe I was so confident that I was hot shit, and I was like, “Ho ho, this is ironic.” But really, I was more like, “Please don’t look at me,” or “Please pay attention to my brain.” Anyway, the hot years are over. It’s like that Nora Ephron quote: “Get the bikini out and run to the nearest beach if you’re under the age of 26.”
Or “Youth is wasted on the young.”
I did know that I was wasting my youth, but I really wanted to look like a grandma. I found that funny. I liked dressing against expectations. It was a subtle act of rebellion.
Are there any specific looks you regret?
I think I regret some of my Met Gala looks. That’s quite a specific thing to get dressed for and you don’t actually have that much say in it. I think there was a year when I carried a rabbit bag. Why did I have to carry around a rabbit? Why can’t I just be a grownup?
Chung and her rabbit bag at the “Schiaparelli And Prada: Impossible Conversations” Met Gala in 2012.
Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images
You’ve previously talked about indie sleaze, a popular trend of the past few years inspired by 2010s style. You’re really the face of that look for many people. Is it weird to already be part of nostalgia culture at 40?
I think it’s fun. It was truly how it looks in the pictures. It’s accurate to describe it as indie. I don’t know about the sleaze, but definitely indie, because it was a collection of people who came together around a particular music scene. I’m happy to see that happening again now if it means there’s a particular music scene that’s kicking off. But I hope it’s not just the aesthetics being borrowed without the fun bit. Everyone was wasted and having the best time ever, so I just hope everyone’s still having a great time.
Back to the present day—what are you obsessing over at the moment?
A gray cable-knit sweater and black loafers from The Row. I’m really into big necklaces. There’s this Sophie Buhai one I borrowed for a shoot that you can put flowers in, which I love. I’m trying to look like a 70-year-old Belgian architect in the ’70s. Like, “I went on an archeological dig and I found this and I tied it to a rope and bronzed it.” I’m in that phase.
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Lately, there’s been a rising tide of anger from so-called Chicago pizza purists who object to the term “tavern-style pizza.” The objections have coincided with the increased national popularity of the thin-crust pizza which is cut into squares and triangles. Even Pizza Hut has a Bizarro version.
Through these civic shenanigans, a 74-year-old Rogers Park pizzeria is trying to adapt to the times. Candlelite, founded in 1950, has established itself as one of the city’s most beloved spots for thin-crust pies. Instantly recognizable along Western Avenue for its neon sign, it’s become a pillar of the Loyola University community and is Sister Jean-approved. They’ve been selling frozen pizzas via Gold Belly and briefly opened a stall inside the Time Out Chicago Market food hall.
After looking at a few spots, the esteemed pizzeria is ready to open a second location this month, treading on rival DePaul University’s turf in Lincoln Park. Candlelite is partnering with the iO Theater, 1501 N. Kingsbury Street, taking over the comedy club’s food and drink service. Candlelite owner Pat Fowler says the theater’s co-owner, Larry Weiner, is a loyal customer in Rogers Park and floated the idea.
“It’s like having two businesses in one building — two iconic Chicago businesses,” Fowler says.
The bar will seat about 80 and be friendly to sports fans with games shown on TVs. A separate dining room — which will feel more like the original Candlelite — will seat an additional 100. They’ll also serve on two patios with 50- and 100-seat capacities. They’ve already redone the kitchens, bringing in conveyor-style pizza ovens, similar to the ones they have on Western.
Pizzas will be available during shows with servers bringing them to tables. The tables are smaller than traditional dining room tables, so Fowler and staff had to find the appropriate pizza stands to hold full-size pies while allowing room for drinks.
“What’s cool for us, from that standpoint, is iO is a destination, right?” Fowler says. “You know, people want to go to a show, and they’re willing to come from far away or nearby. So we’re able to draw from that.”
Candlelite has changed hands several times over seven decades, and Fowler — a former pizza delivery man who started in 2008 — purchased the business in 2012.
The original restaurant’s full menu — with burgers, sandwiches, and options for kids — will be available, and Fowler says they’re working on their beverage selections, hoping to potentially work with Off Color Brewing whose taproom is across the street. They’ll have some fun cocktails as Fowler reminds us that Candlelite’s famous neon sign features a martini. Speaking of the sign, crews in October will install a replica of the original outside the new restaurant. They’ve turned the sign into a logo, using it for their line of frozen pizzas.
In Rogers Park, Candelite has become a community icon and part of the Loyola Rambler community. Fowler wants to enjoy a tight relationship with the Lincoln Park area, even if that means cavorting with Loyola’s rivals at DePaul.
“I’ll either need Sister Jean’s permission or I’ll have to ask for forgiveness,” Fowler says with a laugh. “But we love supporting local so DePaul will definitely be something we want to incorporate openly with Sister Jean’s permission.”
Candlelite Lincoln Park, 1501 N. Kingsbury, planned for a mid-September opening.
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Ashok Selvam
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Painting cabinets and swapping out the knobs and pulls are always the easiest first steps when it comes to a no-demo kitchen reno. And fortunately, it’s a (relatively!) affordable and approachable way to dramatically change the look of your kitchen. With only swapping wall paint and one fixture, my 1950s kitchen got a whole new look by trading a black-and-white paint job on the cabinets for a dark green. But as soon as I was done, I realized I’d made a mistake.
These were the original cabinets, and I had failed to notice one little detail: The hinges were a shiny finish and style that screamed out-of-date. Now, if I were beholden to all things original all the time, I’d want to keep them as is. But in an effort to bring the kitchen into 2024, with just some fun nods to the era (hello, vintage pink wall oven!), my plan was to add some contemporary hardware to the cabinets. Realizing anything I liked would clash with the vintage chrome hinges stopped the plan in its tracks.
And I stayed frozen — until talking with a cabinet refinishing specialist. I wasn’t sure if it would be a huge lift to replace the hinges, as I was sure I wanted something hidden, or something that better matched the rest of the kitchen. Brandon Butler owns Louisville Cabinet Rehab here in my city, and he was kind enough to talk me through how to replace those old, dated hinges (which is easier than it sounds!).
He said what we most likely have here is chrome. Thanks to an electroplating process that made it easy to mass produce hardware, that was incredibly popular in the 1950s, and although it may not be quite as simple as popping off a knob or a drawer pull, it’s a simple enough project to DIY, Butler said. (Although preferably, it would have been done at the same time as painting the cabinets, but I digress.)
If you’re an avid DIYer, you should have no problem making the swap. He recommends using a drill to carefully loosen the screws on each hinge, then remove the screws and hinges. Be sure to keep your cabinet doors in order, or even stick a piece of tape on each one along with the opening it goes to, identified with numbers so you’ll know which one goes to which when you’re done.
It’s easy to find replacement hardware hinges; a quick search turned up a slew of options like these at Lowe’s, or these on Amazon, and for anyone with a heftier budget, these beauties at Rejuvenation. Just be sure you’re getting the same style, i.e. surface-mounted (although if yours are hidden, this may not even be an issue!). And remember to check that the size will more or less match up with the ones you’re replacing.
What’s even better news? The holes don’t actually have to line up — which would really narrow down your hinge options — according to Butler. His tip if they don’t: Get some thin, double-stick tape, place it over the hole you’re going to use to mount the new hinges, drill through it, and put your screw in. You might have to tap out new holes for the others, he says, but the plate will cover the old ones.
And that’s it! I wish I’d done it when the cabinets were being painted, but I feel confident enough now to pick out some hardware, then find hinges that will match and make the swap. Before long, without too much of a time or money commitment, we’ll have beautiful, original cabinets that don’t scream 1957.
Buy: Berta Full Overlay Frameless Soft Closing European Hinges, Set of 6, $12.88
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Dana McMahan
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Ebony-Renee Baker
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The perfect lightweight jacket for modern life.
What exactly is a chore coat? First and foremost, the name is your biggest clue. Popular during the first half of the 1900s, the lightweight chore coat was born out of France and exclusively made to protect laborers and artists by creating a tough barrier on top of clothing, typically work overalls.
Chore coats featured oversized pockets (at least one spacious chest pocket and even larger hip pockets) for the tools of their respective trades, and they were generously cut so as not to impede movement. Materials typically included cotton canvas or thick cotton twill fabric in a blue hue with large buttons rather than zippers, which required more dexterity and focus to operate. The fabric could be cut and sewn together quickly since drape and fit weren’t exactly priorities.
One of its most iconic iterations is the French “bleu de travail,” literally translating to “work blue.” Originating in the late 19th and early 20th centuries during France’s period of rapid industrialization, this classic French work jacket was initially a staple among agricultural and industrial workers. Crafted from durable cotton twill or moleskin, its blue color was practical for disguising stains and dirt that came with a hard day’s work. The garment gained popularity for its durability, comfort, and cost-effectiveness, becoming emblematic of the working class in France. Over time, the bleu de travail transcended its utilitarian origins to become a symbol of French working-class culture and has even found its way into contemporary fashion. Yet, at its core, the bleu de travail remains a tribute to the labor and craftsmanship that it was originally designed to serve.
When the chore coat came to the States in 1923, it expanded beyond the blue French workwear coloring for more neutral tan, brown tones, and was crafted for the American railroad worker. In fact, the iconic striped “train” coat you’ve seen in old movies and period pieces is a chore coat in a uniquely American fabric known as wabash.
Carhartt was the first one that took a stab at creating an icon and went ahead and crafted one with copper rivets and triple stitching for strength. A flannel lining was later added for warmth, a necessity in the colder climes and work environments.
The chore coat was also popularized in post-WWII Japan largely because the prevalence of American military garb eventually led to the westernization of men’s style. The button-up shirt and blue blazer were eventually replaced by the chore coat in the ‘70s, and its most prominent iteration is the denim version that’s a staple today.
In recent years, the bleu de travail has also gained a following among painters, artists, and other craftspeople, who value its functional design and pockets for conveniently holding tools and materials.
Some might confuse the chore coat with the field jacket, which we’ve covered extensively, and that’s understandable since both are casual and practical while imparting a rugged style. The chore coat is traditionally unlined and wasn’t meant to act as a layer of insulation but rather a light protective layer, while field jackets may be unlined or lined.
Original field jackets were military-spec, and they were not as baggy as chore coats and typically had a standing collar and flap pockets with snap closures, while chore coats could employ notch-lapel or point collars and had large open patch pocket. Occasionally, a chest flap pocket was used. Modern interpretations of the chore coat run the gamut of materials and still use traditional denim, waxed cotton, canvas, and even boiled wool. The versions are myriad, and you’ll also see chore coats called “engineer coats”, which is another very similar permutation. The chore coat was never meant as a fashion statement, but like the venerable work boot, it’s evolved into a key member of workwear style that’s prevalent today.
They also tend to be cut slimmer today, though boxier versions are still popular. The key is to find the cut and material that works for you. If you’re on the job as a contractor, factory worker, tradesman or artist, go for the roomier cut. If it’s hitting the pub on a crisp day, opt for a narrower cut for a more put-together style pallet. And rather than scour the web for the best choices, we’ve assembled 11 of the best chore coats to suit your look or your occupation.
Unlocking the potential of the chore coat in a contemporary setting is less about rigid fashion rules and more about embracing its innate versatility. As a modern guy, you’re constantly juggling different roles—be it the casual weekend warrior, the nine-to-five professional, or the spontaneous adventurer. The chore coat seamlessly fits into all these scenarios, serving as a sartorial Swiss Army knife in your wardrobe. Whether layered over a crisp dress shirt for a smart casual office environment or thrown over a tee for a laid-back vibe, this jack-of-all-trades outerwear piece effortlessly elevates any outfit. It’s a style buy that pays dividends in adaptability and ease.
Not surprisingly, the chore coat makes for a great, well, lightweight jacket. Here Primer contributor Daniel Baraka expertly pairs blues across 3 layers for a modern and useful outfit. See more in Live Action Getup: Spring Layers.
If your office is on the casual side of business casual, as in, you don’t want to wear a blazer but sometimes just a tucked in shirt isn’t enough or too plain, a cotton chore coat makes a great stand-in. Between this and an unstructured blazer one of the most notable differences is just the lack of a traditional blazer’s notch lapel. The result is a look that feels like an intentional layer but not dressy.
When many say “denim jacket” what they really mean is a denim trucker jacket, but there are lots of great denim jackets that aren’t truckers and lots of great truckers that aren’t denim. A denim chore coat offers a distinctive departure without feeling out of place in day-to-day life.
→ Outfit Ideas: Our 35 Favorite Jean Jacket Outfits: Save This Massive Outfit Swipe File for Inspiration
When it comes to the generally limited options of everyday men’s style, having one more is always welcome. If you regularly wear flannels, shirt jackets, or shawl collar cardigans and are looking for an alternative either just for a visual change up or for a difference in weight, a chore coat makes an effortless swap.
Keeping things visually consistent with the chore coat’s origins is always welcomed, and this take from Spier & MacKay details why this European classic has quickly become a modern menswear staple. This traditionally cut chore coat in 100% linen features spacious exterior and interior pockets for easy access, the cut is roomy, and the big buttons ensure ease of use.
When it comes to menswear, we love a great corduroy piece. This versatile jacket features a traditionally charming spread collar and button front, and the patch chest pocket and front patch pockets offer convenient storage with a nod to the vintage workwear aesthetics. Crafted from 100% cotton for a soft, durable finish, the boxier silhouette means more room throughout the chest for an easy fit.
Made in San Francisco of legacy American-made Cone Mills Denim, Tellason’s denim chore coat is just as drool-worthy as their famed jeans. Made of 14 oz non-sanforized selvedge denim, this classic design represents a stylish non-trucker denim jacket.
A deal find that likely won’t last long, this chore coat from Lucky, most known for their jeans, hits all the classic chore coat cues, with the four front pockets and all cotton construction.
The mall department store brand’s budget-friendly interpretation of the chore coat combines old school silhouette with 2% elastane for modern comfort. The large buttons and point collar also retain the customary chore coat look.
Count on the iconic American jeans brand to come out with a minimalist but handsome version of the chore coat. This coat is the perfect layer for microclimates, with a mid-weight feel to the fabric. The rugged silhouette features a fold down collar and three front pockets to bring together form and function to this signature style.
The Ojai jacket embodies just about everything we love about a modern chore jacket because it honors tradition while adding style and versatility points without deviating from what made the chore coat so great to begin with. Pre-washed and properly faded 8-oz. 100% organic cotton is soft, and the Ojai’s cut is just the right amount of roomy. It all gets punctuated with slick black ring-buttons that use real brass, bar-tacked pockets, and double stitching all over. Getting it dirty and faded will only add to its character, but we’re guessing you’ll take really good care of it.
This navy denim version embodies traditional chore coat style, rugged materials, and American craftsmanship. The thick 12oz. Cotton duck fabric jacket is crafted in Bristol, Tennessee, and the style features pewter riveted seams and pockets with big pewter buttons and beautiful white contrast threading. There’s a simple single interior pocket, and button cuffs to roll back. It’s unlined, roomy, and versatile for both work and play.
When it comes to balancing the time-honored design of a chore coat with modern sensibilities, Everlane’s Organic Cotton Barn Jacket sets the bar high. Crafted from 100% organic cotton, this garment presents an eco-conscious choice that doesn’t skimp on quality. Featuring a distinctive corduroy collar, patch pockets with flaps, and sleeves that are meant to be cuffed to reveal more corduroy, this jacket combines practical features with a sophisticated look. Traditional patch detailing at the shoulders and elbows not only enhances durability but also adds a touch of vintage charm. Pair it with your favorite jeans or chinos, and you have a look that’s timeless yet distinctly your own.
Coming from one of our favorite men’s clothing brands, Todd Snyder, their premium Japanese selvedge denim chore coat is an upgrade piece you’ll love for years. This modern take retains the classic silhouette with its crisp lines and easy fit, featuring three functional patch pockets. The standout feature is its lightweight 11.5 oz denim sourced from Takhiyo in Japan. This coat is versatile enough to pair with just about anything making it a standout piece for any wardrobe.
The uncompromising craftsmanship of the ASKET Overshirt is what elevates this workwear piece to a more sophisticated and intentional wardrobe staple. The military grade fabric is tailored from 100% organic cotton which is then gently washed down to eliminate shrinkage, and the finish is an amazing soft handfeel that you are going to love wearing. Three spacious front pockets honor the rugged utility of this straight cut, classic style.
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Andrew Snavely
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Easy weekend, good deals.
While Labor Day is often viewed as the unofficial end of Summer, the reality is it isn’t a hard drop into overcoat weather either.
The “shoulder season” as it’s known, that period between seasons where some days it’s hot, some days it’s chilly, some days it’s both, is a superb style season all its own. It’s the time of sweatshirts with shorts and leather jackets with t-shirts.
But most of all, Labor Day weekend represents one of the best sale weekends because all of the picks will still be weather wearable for the foreseeable future.
→ Check out our picks at the top and the full deals list at the bottom.
Nautica 6″ Deck Short, $29.99 $59.50
The shorts recently featured in our sneaker double feature are on sale this weekend.
Dickies Original Work Pants, $20.99 $29.99
Eddie Bauer Rainier Pants, $37.80 $70
Amazon Essentials Slim Fit Jeans, $23.40 $27.50
Lucky Brand Vintage Straight Jean, $24.98 $99
Classic Fit 5.5″ Casual Shorts, $27.98 $36.99
Also from the sneaker double feature.
Levi’s 501 Original Jeans, $49.98 $98
I was on the hunt for a while for a pair of white jeans in that perfect off-white, “natural” linen-color white that a lot of higher-priced men’s brands have been putting out lately.
GAP Linen Resort Collar Shirt, $36.01 $49.99
A few of the items I word in my summer color blocking piece are on sale.
Levi’s 502 Taper Fit Jeans, $39.99 $69.50
GAP Linen Resort Collar Shirt, $29.02 $49.99
GAP Icon Denim Jacket, $28.80 $32
And if this week’s swipe file of jean jacket outfits got you inspired, you can pick one up under $30.
Apple 2024 MacBook Air 15-inch Laptop, $1,049 $1,299
Hisense 58-Inch 4K Smart Fire TV, $347.99 $549.99
Ring Video Doorbell, $59.99 $99.99
Dyson V8 Plus Cordless Vacuum, $349.99 $469.99
Samsung T7 Shield 2TB Portable SSD, $149.99 $284.99
Surge Protector Power Strip, $9.99 $19.99
ThermoPro Digital Food Thermometer, $14.99 $24.99
Anker Portable Power Station, $169.99 $219.99
Automatic Dimmable Night Lights, 2 Pack, $19.99 $25.99
I wanted to pick up some nightlights for my stairwell that didn’t look like they were for a kid’s room and I got these earlier this year.
The Long Weekend Event: 40% off sitewide + Extra 60% off sale styles with code WEEKEND
Straight Fit Chino Pants, $71.99 $89.50
Vintage Wash Cotton Pocket Shirt, $23.50 $39.50
6″ Dock Short, $29.50 $69.50
Baird McNutt Irish Linen Shirt, $58.50 $98
Cable Knit Sweater Polo, $53.50 $89.50
7″ Stretch Chino Short, $23.99 $69.50
6″ Dock Short, $29.50 $69.50
Straight Fit Five Pocket Pant, $70.50 $118
Zigzag Socks, $5.50 $10.50
Organic Cotton Chambray Shirt, $52.50
Field Jacket in Reverse Cotton Sateen, $159.50 $268
Straight Fit Chino Pant, $71.99 $89.50
Extra 15% off all sale gear for Labor Day weekend
FastFlex Suede Loafer, $168 $225
Relwen Canvas Stretch Supply Pant, $168 $198
The olive version of the tan pant I featured earlier in the year.
Flint and Tinder CPO Boiled Wool Shirt Jacket, $124 $248
A great (upgraded) version to that cheap, lucky find shirt jacket from Target that I’ve featured fro years.
Wellen Recycled Cotton Cardigan Sweater, $117 $168
Rhythm Classic Straight Fatigue Pant, $52 $65
Up to 40% off sale styles, plus an extra 20% off
Lyam Silk Resort Shirt, $71.99 $190
Luxury Touch Resort Shirt, $19.99 $70
From one of our most recent Getups.
Amir Penny Loafer, $135.99 $220
A good alt for the recent Chris Pine outfit rebuild.
Cotton Linen Resort Shirt, $71.99 $120
Straight Traveller Jean 2.0, $63.99 $130
Linen Cotton Sweater Polo, $55.99 $90
Todd Snyder up to 70% off
Bonobos 25% off Summer Sendoff Sale
Nordstrom Up to 60% off clearance
Nordstrom Rack Extra 25% off clearance
J.Crew Factory 50% to 70% off
Tellason 20% off
Lands’ End 40% off full price styles
Gap 40-60% off sale styles
Old Navy Up to 50% off storewide
American Eagle 25% to 70% off everything
Spier & Mackay 20% off new markdowns
Backcountry Up to 60% off gear, apparel, and more
Levi’s 30 sitewide
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Andrew Snavely
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Camille Freestone
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