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  • Did a magician help vanquish the Nazis in World War Two?

    Did a magician help vanquish the Nazis in World War Two?

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    Its 150-ish objects, including gadgets, official documents, film and photography, uncloak both well and lesser-known stories, such as Noor Inayat Khan – the first female wireless operator sent into Occupied France. “We wanted to show that wars are not always fought and won on battlefields or in boardrooms,” says co-curator Michelle Kirby. “So much happens in the shadows.”

    Since Maskelyne published his memoir, it has repeatedly been suggested that he exaggerated his individual contributions, though critics’ claims – and Maskelyne’s, for that matter – have been difficult to prove. “One of the fascinating but complex realities we’ve had to carefully navigate,” says Kirby, “is that the truth of the specific involvement of people behind military deceptions is often difficult to confirm.”

    How his career change came about

    Maskeylyne was almost 37 when war was announced. The scion of magician aristocracy – his grandfather invented the levitation trick and became famous for exposing fraudulent spiritualists – he volunteered for the Royal Engineers. The techniques of popular magic could be used for camouflage, he said, and he proved it to doubtful officers by conjuring a German warship on the Thames from a cardboard model and mirrors. 

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  • Why Doctor Who is the ultimate British show

    Why Doctor Who is the ultimate British show

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    Sixty years old this year, Doctor Who is perceived around the globe as one of the greatest British TV shows ever made. But what’s really at the heart of Doctor Who that makes it quite so quintessentially British?

    Journalist, and self-confessed Whovian, Dan John delves into the stories, the costumes, the characters and the origins of Doctor Who to unravel the very British DNA of the world’s longest running science-fiction TV show. Interviews with Alexandra Benedict, a writer of official Doctor Who audio dramas, and Chris Oates, a political analyst and writer of the essay Doctor Who and the New British Empire, reveal how the show has become deeply ingrained in the language of British cultural identity itself.

    Producer, Presenter and Editor: Dan John

    Camera: Laura Blake

    Executive Producers: Hugh Montgomery and Natalia Guerrero

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  • Steamboat Willie: How Walt Disney came back from ruin

    Steamboat Willie: How Walt Disney came back from ruin

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    “I found that the animals in captivity are not themselves. What you see of an animal in a zoo is not what the animal actually is when he is out there in nature itself,” he said in a BBC interview in 1959.

    “So, I sent camera crews out into the wilds, to capture what an animal actually does in his way of life. And from the film that I brought in for the artists to study, I realised there was a great story there that had never been told.”

    Inspired, he launched an ambitious project, the True-Life Adventures, a series of documentaries offering a fascinating glimpse into lives of animals in the wild. As with his animation, Disney’s team of filmmakers pushed the boundaries of technology and innovation. The studio pioneered the use of long-range lenses and underwater cameras, enabling viewers to see wildlife behaviour and the intricate interplay of ecosystems in unprecedented detail.

    The series, which carefully balanced educational and engaging storytelling, went on to win multiple Academy Awards, including the first-ever best documentary feature Oscar for The Living Desert in 1954.

    “Over the last few years, we have ventured into a lot of different fields,” said Disney, reflecting on his expanding empire. “I only hope that we never lose sight of one thing, that it all started with a mouse.”

    In History is a series which uses the BBC’s unique audio and video archive to explore historical events that still resonate today.

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  • Alien chic to clown shoes: 10 of the most absurd style trends of 2023

    Alien chic to clown shoes: 10 of the most absurd style trends of 2023

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  • Prince auction: Iconic Purple Rain shirt up for sale

    Prince auction: Iconic Purple Rain shirt up for sale

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    Prince’s risqué, provocative point of difference and powerful image paid off and Prince became one of the first black artists – along with Michael Jackson – to land heavy play on MTV, a move that sealed his commercial success. “I don’t think any artist before had used that level of sex to get in the door and be accepted by the mainstream” wrote Questlove of The Roots, in Rolling Stone’s 100 Greatest Artists tribute (Prince was ranked at 27). “I wonder what his mind state was in 1981, standing onstage in kiddie briefs, leg warmers and high heels without a number one hit. That was a risk.”

    Less is more

    Equally at ease in his birthday suit (as the sleeves for his eponymous second album and Lovesexy both attest) as in sequins, furs and multi-layered lace – his Purple Rain-era outfit for the 1985 American Music Awards would have found favour with Liberace – Prince didn’t do dull. And the same sartorial effort was expected of his band, The Revolution. “Prince was tired with the costumes I was coming up with. He sent his girlfriend down to the hotel room I was in, and she knocked on the door and she sweetly came in and dumped this bag of metallic, multi-coloured underwear on my bed – bra and panties, basically – and said, ‘Prince said wear this or you’re fired’,” recalled Gayle Chapman, keyboardist from 1978 to 1980.

    Mixing virility and femininity, his bare chest often a centrepiece, Prince nonetheless radiated pheromones. “People say I’m wearing heels because I’m short,” said the pint-size (5ft 2in, 1.57m) performer. “I wear heels because the women like ’em.” A flip through his photo album sees an array of funky bell-bottoms, polka-dots galore, and a run of garish metallic body wrappings to rival a Quality Street tin. Silhouettes oscillated between crop tops and high-waisted bodycon trousers to elongate the body, showcasing his ever-trim physique, and long strong-shouldered power-dressing jackets creating the illusion of a bigger frame.

    Top of the fops

    As eclectic as his musical offerings, Prince’s wardrobe also included Freddie Mercury-style nipple-baring leotards, offset by blow-dried locks, an asymmetric hoop earring and a purple sequinned hooded cape that he wore to the Oscars in 1985 where he won the Academy Award for original song score for Purple Rain. (Never knowingly understated, Prince pulled up to the event in a purple limo escorted by some 20 uniformed security men on motorcycles, according to a report in People magazine.) And once seen, the bottom-baring yellow laser-cut suit worn for his performance of Gett Off at the MTV Video Music Awards in 1991 can never be forgotten – Lady Gaga, eat your heart out.

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  • Radicals and Rogues: These subversive 1910s women made New York cool – but were written out of history

    Radicals and Rogues: These subversive 1910s women made New York cool – but were written out of history

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    As an artist Florine Stettheimer embraced a decorative, slightly camp aesthetic with which she created paeons to the city life she adored. “She was just so good at capturing those really ephemeral moments of modern life, whether that’s a street scene in New York or the Stetteheimer gatherings,” says Whalen. At the same time, she refused to be cowed by modernity’s cult of youth, painting herself full-frontal nude at the age of 44.

    While Florine was painting, Carrie was creating her own fantasy world in the form of a doll’s house, which intriguingly subverted the boundaries between art and craft. A standout feature is the ballroom, which contains around 30 miniature versions of paintings and sculptures by the Stettheimer’s artist friends, including a tiny version of Duchamp’s Nude Descending a Staircase No. 2. Whalen believes that Carrie’s doll’s house was an influence on Duchamp’s own miniature project, Boîte-en-valise, which he began in 1935. However, as with Norton and Wood’s involvement with Fountain, this has been overlooked.

    The reasons for these women’s relative anonymity today is down to multiple factors. Rising rents forced the creative communities of Greenwich Village to disband, and, post-World War One, conservative forces were keen to have women back in their box. When the art history of the era was written, their contribution was conveniently overlooked in favour of their male compatriots.

    However, their impact is undeniable. Whalen points out that on a very physical level the map of New York’s contemporary art world would be very different without Armory Show supporters Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney and Lillie Bliss. Whitney of course founded her eponymous museum while Bliss, alongside Abby Aldrich Rockefeller and Mary Quinn Sullivan, was behind the founding of MoMA.  

    When it comes to the more daring artists of the 1910s and 20s, Whalen sees their legacy coming back into its own with second-wave feminist performance artists in the 1960s. “Think of artists like Yoko Ono and Carolee Schneemann, and the way that they play with the body and sexuality… I think Carolee Schneemann was taking on the Baroness’s legacy in a really wonderful way,” she says.

    Ultimately “we’re still coming to understand how important these women’s work was,” says Whalen. “There’s still a lot of work to be done. Their legacy continues to unfold in the present day.”

    Radicals and Rogues: The women who made New York modern is out now

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  • The Crown season 6 review: A ‘clumsy, predictable’ end to the Royal Family drama

    The Crown season 6 review: A ‘clumsy, predictable’ end to the Royal Family drama

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    There is clumsiness throughout, though, including the ongoing stark contrast between Diana’s sun-bathed days and the dark wood and shadows inside Buckingham Palace.  A paparazzo who photographs Diana says of his profession “You have to be like hunters, killers”, one more winking, leaden invitation to fill in the blank.

    In episode four, Morgan enters the period of his 2006 film, The Queen, with Helen Mirren, about the aftermath of Diana’s death, and we are struggling through two layers of the past, history and that film’s version of it. This time it is Charles, rather than Tony Blair, who urges the Queen to leave Balmoral and go to London to publicly mourn, telling her she needs to be “mother to the nation”. Staunton is steelier than Mirren when she replies, “I’d rather not be lectured on how or when to grieve or show emotion”. 

    Without making her any less the beloved Queen of recent memory, in a thoroughly convincing performance Staunton is positively beady-eyed and firm in her resistance, backed up fully by Prince Philip (Jonathan Pryce). If only we had seen more of what she might have thought. But she abruptly relents and heads to London, after she imagines ghostly Diana talking to her. The jarring change is as sudden as Charles’ appreciation of what Diana meant to the country. Such character swerves make it seem as if the series is racing along to catch up to the story points everyone expects and gets to see, whether we need to or not: William and Harry walking behind their mother’s coffin, the Queen finally giving her address to the nation about Diana, which in Staunton’s uncompromising portrayal displays the forced nature of it all.

    Morgan’s elegant writing and penetrating, speculative psychology have been immensely intriguing, a joy to watch over the years. Too often in these predictable last seasons, though, we could have written the story ourselves.

    ★★☆☆☆

    The Crown season 6 episodes 1-4 is released on Netflix on 16 Nov. Part two of season 6 is released on 14 December.

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  • Leveraging the K-12 generative AI readiness checklist: A guide for district leadership

    Leveraging the K-12 generative AI readiness checklist: A guide for district leadership

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    Editor’s note: This story on how to manage academic integrity as generative AI moves into classrooms originally appeared on CoSN’s blog and is reposted here with permission.

    The rapid advances in artificial intelligence (AI) technology present both incredible opportunities and significant challenges for educational settings. Whether or not a school district is considering leveraging AI, the influence of this technology on educational ecosystems is undeniable. As AI increasingly becomes a part of our daily lives, district leaders have a responsibility to understand its impact in educational settings and make informed decisions accordingly. This is true whether the aim is active adoption or simply preparation for a future where AI tools become more prevalent in educational settings.

    To ensure school districts are adequately prepared for the integration of generative AI into their instructional and operational systems, the Council of Great City Schools, CoSN – Consortium for School Networking, and Amazon Web Services have partnered to create the K-12 Gen AI Readiness Checklist Questionnaire. There are several ways in which district leadership can best use this checklist for assessing and enhancing their readiness for integrating generative AI technologies into both instructional and operational systems.

    The first step should be to bring together a group of individuals that will form the district’s Generative AI Leadership Team. Who Should Be Involved?

    • Superintendents and District Leaders: As decision-makers, your insights into aligning AI adoption with overall goals and strategies are critical.
    • Chief Technology Officers and Chief Information Officers: You will be the primary users of the checklist, evaluating technical capabilities, limitations, and needs.
    • Cross-Functional Teams: The checklist addresses a wide array of considerations, making it essential for input from representatives of all departments involved, including academics, finance, and legal.

    The Checklist covers readiness in Executive Leadership, Operational, Data, Technical, Security, Legal/Risk Management. Below are some ideas for how the Checklist can be leveraged in your school district.

    Initial Assessment

    Alignment with District Goals: Start by examining whether AI technologies align with your district’s mission, vision, and values.
    Resource Inventory: Make sure you have designated teams or individuals who will be responsible for overseeing AI adoption.
    Tactical Steps
    Legal Review: Consult the legal department to ensure compliance with state laws or district rules concerning the use of AI technologies.
    Policy Development: Establish clear policies around the responsible use of AI, keeping in mind to align them with existing federal guidelines and best practices.
    Staff Training: Ascertain the training needs for different roles within the district and prepare a training roadmap.

    Operational Readiness

    Procurement Standards: Set forth clear standards for AI procurement, with a focus on compliance and ethical considerations.
    Data Governance and Privacy: Make sure you have robust data governance policies in place and that you are compliant with privacy regulations.
    Technical Readiness
    Security Framework: Update your cybersecurity policies to include AI-specific considerations.
    Identity and Access Management: Implement centralized role-based data access controls specifically for AI tools.
    Monitoring: Develop processes to keep track of systems that use AI and how they are used.

    Risk Management

    Legal Remediation: Update terms and conditions to include AI-specific clauses and ensure the legal team has remediation plans.
    Copyright Policy: Create or update the copyright policy to include content created using AI tools.
    Continuous Review
    Iterative Approach: The adoption of AI is not a one-off event but a continual process. Periodic reassessments should be conducted.

    Making the Most of the Checklist

    Customization: One of the key strengths of the checklist is that it is designed to be adaptable. Districts should customize it according to their unique needs and challenges.
    Community Resource: The checklist is intended to evolve. Once it is made publicly available under a Creative Commons license, districts can not only modify it but also share their experiences and modifications, contributing to its value as a community resource.

    The extremely rapid pace of gen AI development brings with it both great opportunities and exposure to risk. Creating a team to provide governance for the adoption of AI in educational settings is a critical step in guiding use and preventing abuse. The K-12 Gen AI Readiness Checklist provides a comprehensive framework to guide district leadership to engage in understanding a complex AI ecosystem and the numerous considerations that come with AI adoption. By strategically leveraging this checklist, school districts can navigate the complexities of AI technology while aligning with educational objectives and ensuring data privacy and security.

    The goal is not just to blindly adopt new technology but to transform our education systems for the better, and this checklist is a strong step in that direction.

    Latest posts by eSchool Media Contributors (see all)

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    Tom Ryan, Ph.D., Co-Founder, K-12 Strategic Technology Advisory Group (K12STAG) (NM) & Shahryar Khazei, Consultant, Infosys (CA)

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  • Napoleon review: Ridley Scott’s biopic is ‘an awe-inspiring achievement’

    Napoleon review: Ridley Scott’s biopic is ‘an awe-inspiring achievement’

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    The ferocious battles that follow are all spectacular, all distinct from each other, and all easy to follow. Amid the smoke, blood and chaos, Scott ensures that you can see who’s winning and why. As cavalrymen charge across misty plains and infantrymen get blasted to pieces by cannonballs, Napoleon is a reminder that no other director makes films like Scott does. That clarity is there when its hero is striding through palaces and cathedrals, too. Captions spell out who is speaking and where they are, so there is an obvious purpose to all of his encounters with the world’s politicians (played by a succession of British character actors and comedians, mercifully sticking to their own accents). 

    He meets his match in the Duke of Wellington, played by Rupert Everett – the one man who sneers more contemptuously than he does – but the most important encounter in his life is with Joséphine, played by Vanessa Kirby. This widowed aristocrat entrances him at first sight, and Kirby is coolly charismatic enough to account for the coup de foudre. Poised yet down-to-earth, her eyes twinkling, she always seems to be smirking at a joke that only she understands. Phoenix’s performance is just as enjoyable. A distant relative of the Emperor he played in Scott’s earlier epic, Gladiator, his Napoleon is relaxed to the point of sleepiness when he’s on the battlefield, a petulant brat in meetings, and a tongue-tied arrested adolescent where women are concerned.

     

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  • How to update your wardrobe easily and sustainably

    How to update your wardrobe easily and sustainably

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    “This led to a process of re-evaluating my clothes – selling some things on, repairing others and only buying five new items a year. Everything else is second-hand,” Souslby explains. In the last year alone, she has repaired three items (a pair of jeans, boots and a skirt) and altered a pair of trousers and jeans to change the silhouettes.

    For some, the comparative price of repairs and alterations to buying new from fast fashion brands can be too high: it costs £20 ($25) to repair a tear and £30 ($37) to create a new neckline on a shirt at The Seam. But for Soulsby, it comes down to value and mindset.

    “If you love something, and you know it is so old you wouldn’t be able to source it again then it is absolutely worth keeping,” she says. “It’s hard to find things you really love and want to keep wearing – with all of the good times and memories that attach themselves to those items.”

    Soulsby’s reevaluation of her wardrobe included tackling the hunger for new clothes, driven by brands pushing trends and new pieces, sometimes on a daily basis. She says it’s a model that even some second-hand sellers have adopted. “Lots of sellers echo the ‘drop’ model so they keep up that feeling that you have to have it. I think it can lead to rash impulses and poor buys.”

    Lisa Wenske, a copywriter from Berlin and loyal second-hand shopper, agrees. She made a New Year’s resolution in 2017 to only buy second-hand clothing for a year – both out of necessity (a shoestring budget) and a growing concern for the effects of fast fashion on garment workers and the planet. The resolution became a habit; Wenske rarely buys new clothes.

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  • The Crown: The secrets of how Dominic West transformed into King Charles III

    The Crown: The secrets of how Dominic West transformed into King Charles III

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    Part of Bennett’s work was also to ensure there was a coherence between the different generations of actors playing the same roles. One quality of Charles’s life Bennett focused on when it came to instructing both O’Connor and West was the abundance of time he has, as he waits to finally assume his destiny as king, and the debilitating effect that has on him in his life.

    “[Charles] is literally waiting all the time. When you see him walking, he walks at a different speed to the [other] royals – you notice that his place in the world is not vibrant or fast because it’s subdued. It’s a helpful mantra to have… you’re in limbo, and my job is to go, ‘What does limbo feel like?’ That was a really gorgeous discovery.”

    Embodying grief

    Moving into the final season of The Crown – which has been split into two parts, with the first streaming on Netflix from 16 November – a key focus will be on the death of Princess Diana in a car crash in Paris in 1997. While the series will not explicitly show the crash, it will cover the aftermath, with the public outpouring of grief and the royals’ reactions to her death. In an interview recorded earlier this year, West explained: “There were some really heavy scenes this season and a lot of tears for Charles. There are a lot of scenes of Charles trying to come to terms with [Diana’s death] and breaking the news to his sons, trying to help his sons mourn and having varying degrees of success at that.”

    There’s also one scene reportedly where a “ghost” of Diana will appear, although creator Peter Morgan himself has disputed that description saying that her posthumous appearance  is “more an indication that, when someone has just passed, they’re still vivid in the minds of all those close to them and love them.” While there has already been some controversy around the use of this device in the series, Bennett explains that this added a further emotional depth for characters, especially for West as Charles. “When grief strikes, when we get affected by a trauma, your body changes. So I would say there is a shift in our Charles when this happens because of an absence of a figure. Then, when you’re looking at your children and they’re looking like your partner is half of them, that changes how you look at them, as if you’re almost seeing a ghost.”

    The lead image being used to promote the first half of the sixth season is actor Elizabeth Debicki, who plays Diana, in a recreation of an iconic shot of the Princess of Wales, then just weeks before her shocking death, sitting pensively on the diving board of a yacht, dressed in a turquoise swimsuit. For Debicki to arrive at this state and point in Diana’s frenetic “hunted” life, there was work Bennett did with her that harked back to her workshops with Emma Corrin’s previous younger Diana in series three and four – with both actors, she asked them to imagine the walls were lined with cameras.

    “When I first started working with Elizabeth, it started being about not what Emma had done, but then it came full circle. I think there’s a beauty in that dialogue between the series and between the actors that haven’t worked together. I found similar imagery [for the two] in prey, the impact of the weight of cameras, of being seen, the paparazzi, when you think about being the most photographed woman in the world… it’s absolutely horrible. Imagining it, it must have made her feel embarrassed, worn out, exhausted, so aware of herself.

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  • Coyote vs Acme and the blockbusters that may never be seen

    Coyote vs Acme and the blockbusters that may never be seen

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    But why? There’s nothing wrong with a studio changing direction, but if Coyote vs Acme was finished, why not release it, anyway? The answer, apparently, is that distributing and promoting a film adds so much to the overall cost that it is hard for it to make a profit. It can be cheaper for a studio to dismiss the film as a “tax write-down”, and claw back millions of dollars. But the strategy is only legal if the film is never shown. Effectively, it has to cease to exist. Green has said that he is “beyond devastated”. Still, there is some hope that Wile E Coyote will return to life, as he so often does. On Monday, it was reported that Warner would permit Green and his colleagues to shop the film around to other potential distributors. But other film-makers who have suffered a similar fate haven’t been so lucky.

    In April 2022, WarnerMedia merged with Discovery Inc to become Warner Bros Discovery, and since then the conglomerate’s new CEO, David Zaslav, has been responsible for a swathe of controversial cost-cutting measures. The most astonishing of these came in August 2022, when the studio scrapped a $90m DC superhero blockbuster, Batgirl, that had already been shot. Leslie Grace starred as Gotham City’s newest crime fighter, alongside Brendan Fraser as the villainous Firefly and Michael Keaton as Batman. But, despite that tantalising cast, the studio’s top brass judged that the film was bound to flop, so they cut their losses. “We are saddened and shocked by the news,” the directors, Adil El Arbi and Bilall Fallah, said on Instagram. “We still can’t believe it.”

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  • Saltburn and the bizarre life of Britain’s stately homes

    Saltburn and the bizarre life of Britain’s stately homes

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    Oliver immediately gets a guided tour, Felix wheeling through libraries and endless colour-coded rooms, up and down staircases and along echoing halls where various “dead relly[s]” stare down from the walls. In less of a nod than a jabbed finger to the film’s own forebears, Felix drops in a mention of Evelyn Waugh being reputedly obsessed with the place. All of this is a calculated set-up, Saltburn intended to seduce the viewer with grandeur as much as it might hope to imply ominous things lurking under the surface.

    The stately home has long exerted a compelling hold – part-charmed, part-tragic – over the British imagination. It’s a hold that Fennell’s film both wants to subvert and unabashedly tap into. From the works of Jane Austen and novels including Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited (1945), D H Lawrence’s Lady Chatterley’s Lover (1928), Nancy Mitford’s The Pursuit of Love (1945), Daphne du Maurier’s Rebecca (1938), and Ian McEwan’s Atonement (2001) to costume dramas such as Downton Abbey and Bridgerton, there’s a particular narrative allure to houses full of secrets and staff quarters. The big country house lends itself especially well to romances, whodunnits and gothic drama, a combination of beauty, scale and isolation, as well as bizarre inhabitants, providing apt settings for both the lightest and darkest of themes. 

    Like those many works before it, Saltburn plays with the idea that these enormous bastions of privilege and power are unique breeding grounds for strangeness – and, crucially, magnets for it too. Cut off both physically and financially, eccentricity and emotional indifference can flourish behind the gates. However, as with those other works, its characters pale by comparison to the generations of real-life aristos who have populated the country’s 600 or so stately homes over the centuries.

    The most eccentric owners

    Take William John Cavendish Scott Bentinck, the fifth Duke of Portland, a 19th-Century recluse who turned his home Welbeck Abbey in Nottinghamshire into a warren: painting most of the rooms pink and constructing an elaborate system of tunnels beneath the property that stretched to 15 miles (24km), connecting his house to the nearest train station. Or Sir Tatton Sykes, a baronet who loathed flowers with such a passion that on moving into Sledmere House in Yorkshire in 1863, he decreed that every single one be destroyed – including those in the gardens of the village that also sat on the estate. Or Gerald Hugh Tyrwhitt-Wilson, the 14th Baron of Berners, who dyed the feathers of his pigeons in bright colours, took afternoon tea with a pet giraffe, and drove around the estate of Faringdon House in his Rolls-Royce wearing a pig’s mask to scare the locals.

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  • The people living ‘circular’, low-waste lives

    The people living ‘circular’, low-waste lives

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    Gather opened in 2019 with a mission to “help others make the same changes [Gorst’s] family had made” and the public one of “mak[ing] low-waste living super simple for the people of Peckham”. It has not been easy. Gorst built the shop “from scratch, literally, with secondhand furniture and scrap wood scavenged from skips” and she stresses Gather only survived the pandemic rather than doing well.

    But through “​​sharing the highs and lows”, whether through social media or the shop’s long-running book club, connections were made that felt deeply “purposeful and meaningful”. Gorst continues, “The sense of community is strongest with those who shop with us, [though], rather than those who follow us on Instagram.”

    According to a report published in 2020 by Women’s Wear Daily, #zerowaste garnered more than 4.7m uses on Instagram that year, making it one of the fastest growing and widely used sustainability-related hashtags on the platform. I ask about this pandemic-era proliferation of low and zero-waste trends and tribes, endeavours and advocates, and to what Gorst would attribute their appeal; she theorises a combination of people having “plenty of time on [their] hands to try new things and embed new habits” and “a desire to exert some control over [their] lives in a tangible, manageable way”.

    Control, it seems, is key. This is worth keeping in mind when beginning a sustainability journey. This is how you might combat climate anxiety along the way, says Gorst, by “doing whatever [you] feel able to do” and by “taking control of the things [you] can control”.

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  • From Riders to Tackle! – how Britain loves Jilly Cooper’s raunchy novels

    From Riders to Tackle! – how Britain loves Jilly Cooper’s raunchy novels

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    Daisy Buchanan, author of books including Insatiable and Limelight, host of the You’re Booked podcast and Jilly Cooper superfan, first discovered the writer as a teenager. “I think I was about 13 when I fell in love with Jilly’s books,” she tells BBC Culture. “Riders and Rivals were being passed around at school, almost 20 years after they were first published, which is a testament to her power. Her stories are dramatic, extravagant, escapist tales – but while she sets her books in glamorous worlds, her characters are so vulnerable, loveable and human. It’s only in Jilly-land where you get heroines who triumph while feeling self-conscious about their spots.”

    As it had for millions of readers before her, the sex left a lasting impression, too. “She was the first writer I read who talked openly about women seeking pleasure,” says Buchanan. “She’s not the first writer to write about sex, but I think she’s one of the first to show sex on the page that is tender, joyful and loving – and to say that you don’t need to be perfect to seek those sexual experiences. In her stories, sex is sometimes Earth-shatteringly profound, and sometimes simply fun.”

    Escapist and educational?

    This positive attitude to sex was a huge influence when Buchanan started writing her own novels. “My first novel, Insatiable, wouldn’t exist if it wasn’t for Jilly Cooper’s novels,” she says. “Jilly’s books formed my emotional sex education, and Insatiable… owes an enormous debt to Rivals and Riders. I wanted to write escapist sex with real emotions.”

    But while there is much to celebrate in Cooper’s portrayals of sex, it wasn’t always fun – or consensual. “There are rapes that happen in Jilly’s books, and it is very rare that the rapist has any kind of comeuppance,” says Burge. In one particularly disturbing scene in Riders, Rupert coerces his wife Helen into a sexual act. “It’s a really horrible scene,” says Burge. “Those aspects are difficult to read now.”

    Despite Campbell-Black’s frequently appalling treatment of women, he’s continued to be the hero of Cooper’s books. As for feminists, they are rarely sympathetic in her novels, and usually marked by their hairy legs. Cooper is, of course, of a different era– as evidenced in a recent interview with The Sunday Times. She thinks the #MeToo movement has made people too “tense” and “anxious” about sex. “I’m quite depressed about sex at the moment. I don’t think people are having nearly as much fun.”

    In her fictional worlds, though, there’s still plenty of fun to be had. Tackle! sees the return of Campbell-Black (now a reformed and faithful husband), who buys ailing local football club Searston Rovers and propels them to the Champions League. If it sounds like Cooper has been binging Ted Lasso and Welcome to Wrexham, her interest in football was actually sparked by a lunch with Alex Ferguson, while Searston Rovers are loosely based on her local team, Forest Green Rovers, owned by eco-millionaire Dale Vince.

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  • Can luxury fashion ever be fully sustainable?

    Can luxury fashion ever be fully sustainable?

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    (Image credit: Getty Images)

    Luxury consumers care about the environment – but can the industry shape up? Faran Krentcil talks to Marie-Claire Daveu – the doyenne of sustainability behind Gucci, Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent – to find out.

    C

    Channing Tatum is hot. One evening in September, he was also a bit overheated. The Hollywood actor was at New York’s Four Seasons Hotel as a guest of the Kering Foundation, a charity that was launched to combat gender-based violence. The foundation was marking its 15th anniversary with a September gala that showcased Kering’s luxury brands – Gucci, Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent among them. While Mr Tatum gently dabbed his forehead with a cocktail napkin, Isabelle Huppert, Oprah Winfrey, Kim Kardashian and Linda Evangelista were making the rounds and posing for photos. All were clad in designer gowns; all were a tiny bit sweaty. 

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    The doyenne of this literal hotspot was Marie-Claire Daveu, 51, who serves as Kering’s chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer. Daveu heads up the brand’s efforts on everything from recycled material sourcing to carbon footprint reduction. Famously, she also has a strict environmental policy of limiting “wasteful” air conditioning whenever possible – even when it’s a balmy night in September, and Nicole Kidman is wearing a Balenciaga catwalk gown with full-length black gloves. 

    Nicole Kidman, Kim Kardashian and Isabelle Huppert were guests at a recent Kering Foundation charity dinner (Credit: Getty Images)

    Nicole Kidman, Kim Kardashian and Isabelle Huppert were guests at a recent Kering Foundation charity dinner (Credit: Getty Images)

    “Air conditioning seems like a small thing, almost a silly thing, which I understand,” says Daveu when we speak earlier that day at The Whitby Hotel in midtown Manhattan. “But with sustainability, you have to act very locally. If you are working in an office, it can start at your office. Collectively, that truly can make a big difference.” Daveu’s rule for air conditioning in Kering’s business spaces is simple: “No disturbances from 19 to 26 degrees Celsius.” 

    Daveu isn’t just making red-carpet royalty sweat a little – she’s also making her competitors in the luxury fashion sector sweat a lot. A 2022 survey by consumer consulting firm Deloitte found that 57% of luxury consumers take sustainability factors into account when they buy a new designer item. Daveu’s cadre of style sects, including critical darlings like Bottega Veneta and revered innovators like Alexander McQueen, now come with published, public standards for environmental requirements like responsible cotton sourcing and water use during precious metalwork. 

    In March of this year, Kering publicly announced they would cut greenhouse gas emissions by 40% by 2035. Gucci (which is owned by Kering) set up its “circular hub” in February as “the first hub [for recycled luxury] in Italy”. Kering’s “material innovations lab“, which is aiming to find cleaner solutions to high-resource textiles like leather, silk and wool, just celebrated its 10th birthday. From the autumn of 2022, the company banned the use of all fur. 

    Marie-Claire Deveu – shown here at the Copenhagen Global Fashion Summit – is the head of sustainability at Kering (Credit: Getty Images)

    Marie-Claire Deveu – shown here at the Copenhagen Global Fashion Summit – is the head of sustainability at Kering (Credit: Getty Images)

    Before joining the billion-dollar luxury firm in 2012, Daveu was part of a different type of French establishment: the government. A former technical advisor to the cabinet of Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin, she was also the principal private secretary of France’s minister of ecology and sustainable development. She was later the post’s chief of staff. 

    “What I learned is that change takes time, and also that change is very possible if you commit to it,” she says of her civil servant years. “That’s the key, you know? That commitment. So when I met [Kering president and CEO] François-Henri Pinault, that is what I was looking for. ​​I was like, ‘Oh. You really understand this aspect. It’s very important to you. And you’re very open to listening to new ways to achieve sustainability.’”

    With Pinault’s blessing, Daveu began establishing cross-channel systems ensuring the creative, financial, and logistics teams were all on the same team when it came to sustainable practices and regenerative solutions. But the Paris native and former environmental engineer sees herself less as an air traffic controller than a performance coach, training her elite team to create more responsible clothes and accessories.

    “You know how a CFO makes a financial roadmap?” she asks. “It’s just like that, except for sustainability. You define KPIs, you define the calendar of progress, and you check in with your team to ensure you’re on track to meet your targets.” 

    The iconic Gucci horsebit 1955 handbag has recently been reinvented using sustainable materials (Credit: Getty Images)

    The iconic Gucci horsebit 1955 handbag has recently been reinvented using sustainable materials (Credit: Getty Images)

    Daveu encourages “cross pollination” between Kering’s design teams and their environmental scientists. She is also unapologetic about pushing more sustainable practices to happen as quickly as possible, citing the immediate threats of the climate crisis like extreme weather, loss of viable farmland, and endangered marine life. To that end, Kering has pledged to reduce its carbon emissions in absolute value by 2045, using methods guided by the Nature Climate Solutions Alliance

    “When you see what’s happening with climate change and with loss of biodiversity, it’s not enough to have a clear diagnosis,” says Daveu. “It’s not enough to say, ‘I will have the solution someday’. You are ready to push to go faster and faster with the scientific data you have… I am not God. I cannot say, ‘We can save the world no matter what’. But I have hope. And with that hope, I can try. We can try.”

    Sustainable capitalism

    The logo-printed elephant in the room, of course, is that Kering is still a business. Their job is to sell things, and then make more things to sell. The markets don’t care if you’re doing good; only that you’re doing numbers. And though “sustainable capitalism” – the idea that a brand can make more money by scaling its environmental impact – is a favourite buzzword for established brands like Patagonia and emerging ones like Sky High Farm, it is hard to see a fashion leader like Kering pulling back on the timely trends they create. Gucci’s spangled logomania as seen on Harry Styles, for instance, or Balenciaga’s sleek body stockings worn by Ms Kardashian create cultural moments, and drive buying frenzies in the process. What happens to a hot pink Saint Laurent jumpsuit now that the “Barbiecore” craze of summer is over? A new version must be procured in order to stay in the “now”. And that takes resources, both financial and environmental.

    Model Giedre Dukauskaite wears a Patagonia hat and zip-up jacket – the label is a pioneer of sustainable practices (Credit: Getty Images)

    Model Giedre Dukauskaite wears a Patagonia hat and zip-up jacket – the label is a pioneer of sustainable practices (Credit: Getty Images)

    Moreover, until more materials become fully recycled or upcycled, the rising demand for sustainable goods could actually harm the brand’s goals of capping emissions altogether. Industry leader The Business of Fashion reports that Kering’s carbon emissions actually increased 12% in 2022, thanks in part to the rising demand from red-hot brands like Bottega Veneta and Gucci. In the words of their sustainability editor Sarah Kent, “we cannot consume our way out of the climate crisis“.

    What is promising, however, is that under Daveu’s leadership, Kering has become more transparent about the challenges, and more realistic about their goals. “They’re doing a good job addressing the problem [of emissions versus production] head-on,” says Peter Sadera, the editor-in-chief of Sourcing Journal, a leading industry publication on sustainable fashion development. “But of course, it’s not perfect. Their main problem is that the current fibres everyone uses – synthetics, silk, even cotton – are not inherently sustainable. Making new clothes requires using new fibres and new technologies. The problem is, they tend not to be scalable, at least not yet… So while it’s awesome to say, ‘Hey, we have this new eco-leather, or we’re working with mushroom things, or some kind of biomaterials’ – that’s one capsule collection. What kind of dent is that making in 99% of the other materials they are selling?”

    Sadera is also watching Kering’s outreach efforts to smaller sustainability start-ups with interest –and some concern. “They have these Kering Generation Awards, where they look for sustainable start-ups and help fund them. The sceptic in me thinks it’s brilliant for them to give an award to the scrappier innovators who join their team. In some way, it’s cheaper for them to find [sustainable] tech that already exists, plus it’s a very good PR strategy. But are these innovative materials going to be a major part of any collection at any point in time? The hope is there. It’s starting to happen a little bit. But again, can they scale it?”

    Billie Eilish, shown here with the Gucci horsebit bag made from biomaterials at the LACMA Art and Film Gala on 4 November, is a face of the brand (Credit: Getty Images)

    Billie Eilish, shown here with the Gucci horsebit bag made from biomaterials at the LACMA Art and Film Gala on 4 November, is a face of the brand (Credit: Getty Images)

    In October, Kering brand Balenciaga debuted a collaboration with Gozen, a female-led Turkish biotech company making a fabric called Lunaform from microalgae. “It is only one look for now,” says co-founder Ece Gozen, a former womenswear designer, from her Istanbul studio. “But it shows the possibility of connecting the dots from what I learned from the fashion industry and what we can do in this [sustainable] space.” 

    As their leather-like material was used on Balenciaga Look 41 – a puffy black robe resembling an off-duty Jedi costume from Star Wars – Gozen secured $3.3 million in seed funding from outside investors (which did not include Kering), which will enable them to build a factory with over one million sq ft to scale their textile production. “We are disrupting things in the materials world,” says Gozen. “They are disrupting the design world. Obviously, each industry needs the other to build bigger solutions.”

    As global conflicts and economic anxiety overtake our social media feeds, luxury shopping has taken a backseat to more immediate forms of self-care like comfort food and skincare rituals. Kering’s most recent earnings report is down 9%, although that still puts their Q3 sales earnings at $4.72 billion. The company has also faced recent scrutiny for filling its latest open design post – at Alexander McQueen – with yet another white male designer, an odd twist from a brand with a financial commitment to female empowerment.

    The Changing Room

    The Changing Room is a new column from BBC Culture that spotlights the fashion innovators on the frontlines of a style and sustainability evolution

    Still, interesting – and potentially ground-breaking – projects are on the horizon. Last month, Kering was part of a much-discussed industry takeover, buying a majority stake in Creative Artists Agency, or CAA, the Hollywood talent firm that’s home to megastars like Zendaya and Margot Robbie. (It also represents Salma Hayek, who is married to Mr Pinault himself.) Though the move has no direct link to Kering’s sustainability goals, it may help make them even more mainstream in the future.

    “Kering wants to push [environmentalism] in a way that will resonate with the current generation, and celebrities are a really great way to do it,” says Segara. “If you can get one of your brand ambassadors wearing something that you want to promote as sustainable, that would have legs. But the question is, what are they doing with the talent at CAA? I don’t know if they have the answer to that yet.” 

    Zoe Kravitz and Channing Tatum at the Kering Foundation event – celebrity connections are key to luxury brands for the promotion of sustainable products (Credit: Getty Images)

    Zoe Kravitz and Channing Tatum at the Kering Foundation event – celebrity connections are key to luxury brands for the promotion of sustainable products (Credit: Getty Images)

    And of course, many non-CAA clients are also faces of Kering. That includes Billie Eilish, the Gen Z pop star who collaborated with Gucci on a revamped version of their classic Horsebit 1955 handbag made from biomaterials. The collection already has over one million Instagram likes, plus a music video set to Eilish’s hit summer song, What Was I Made For? 

    For Daveu, it’s just one more example of the cross-pollination between modern luxury and sustainable practices, and how like air and water, both must exist for the other to thrive. “We don’t just see luxury and culture and sustainability as these separate things,” says Daveu. “When we speak about luxury, it’s about the heritage; it’s about quality; it’s about craftsmanship… And luxury also means to be pioneering, in design and technology and in pop culture as well. It is not just our job to make sure sustainability is luxury ” she says. “It is also our obligation.”

    The Changing Room is a new column from BBC Culture that spotlights the fashion innovators on the frontlines of a style and sustainability evolution.

    If you liked this story, sign up for The Essential List newsletter – a handpicked selection of features, videos and can’t-miss news delivered to your inbox every Friday.

    Sign up to the Future Earth newsletter to get essential climate news and hopeful developments in your inbox every Tuesday from Carl Nasman. This email is currently available to non-UK readers. In the UK? Sign up for newsletters here.

     

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  • The fall of the Berlin Wall: The moment that reshaped Europe

    The fall of the Berlin Wall: The moment that reshaped Europe

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    For 28 years, the Wall stood as both a physical and ideological barrier, separating not just family and friends but an entire country. The west of Berlin prospered economically, fuelled by investment from the US and Western Europe, while the east of the city struggled, plagued by shortages and repressively monitored by the secret police, the Stasi. The Wall became a potent symbol of the Cold War, a physical manifestation of the divide between the Communist East and the Capitalist West.

    But by the late 1980s, the whole of the Eastern bloc was coming under pressure. The Soviet Union was bogged down in an intractable war in Afghanistan and facing acute economic problems and major food shortages.

    In the face of this, Mikhail Gorbachev, the Soviet leader who took power in 1985, had already initiated a series of political reforms, glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring), but events were spiralling beyond his control.

    Strikes in the Polish shipyards had sparked mass demonstrations in Hungary and calls from Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania, then part of the Soviet Union, for their independence. East Germany was still firmly under the grip of the Socialist Unity Party but momentum was building and by 4 November 1989, half a million citizens had gathered in East Berlin’s public square Alexanderplatz, calling for change.

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  • Why Sofia Coppola’s Priscilla divided Elvis’s family

    Why Sofia Coppola’s Priscilla divided Elvis’s family

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    “Is this an act of grooming,” asks Richard Lawson in Vanity Fair. “Priscilla does not really editorialise on that, instead calmly showing true events as they happened (or in some version of how they happened) and letting the audience make assessments.” On the other hand, Tara McNamara at Common Sense Media has no doubts. “While it’s perhaps not the breast-thumper of female empowerment that some women (at least this one) might have been hoping for, Priscilla is an unvarnished primer for what grooming looks like.”

    Neither assessment suggests that the film contains the “shockingly vengeful and contemptuous” caricature that Lisa-Marie was afraid of. Personally, when I first saw it, I felt that it was too soft on Elvis; another critic I spoke to – a lifelong Elvis fan – felt that it was too tough on him. The disparity in our reactions, much like the reactions of Priscilla and Lisa-Marie to the screenplay, could be taken as evidence that Coppola got the balance just right.

    “I hope that when you see the final film you will feel differently,” she wrote in an email to Lisa-Marie, “and understand I’m taking great care in honouring your mother, while also presenting your father with sensitivity and complexity.” The tragedy is that Lisa-Marie never got to see the final film, after all.

    If you liked this story, sign up for The Essential List newsletter – a handpicked selection of features, videos and can’t-miss news delivered to your inbox every Friday.

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  • The Shakespeare words you don’t know you know

    The Shakespeare words you don’t know you know

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    If the fact that William Shakespeare’s First Folio, that legacy-defining collection of his plays, is turning 400 has passed you by, you can be sure he’d have had a zinger of a putdown to sling your way. Or better yet, a whole string of them. “Thou art a boil, a plague sore, an embossed carbuncle in my corrupted blood” might just do it, borrowed from King Lear railing against his daughter, Goneril. Then again, perhaps he’d settle for more aloof damnation, along the lines of Orlando’s insult to Jaques in As You Like It: “I do desire we may be better strangers.”

    That isn’t a wish likely to be granted to Shakespeare himself any time soon. During his 52 years on Earth, he enriched the English language in ways so profound that it’s hard to fully gauge his impact. Without him, our vocabulary would be just too different. He gave us uniquely vivid ways in which to express hope and despair, sorrow and rage, love and lust. Even if you’ve never read one of his sonnets or seen one of his plays – even if you’ve never so much as watched a movie adaptation – you’re likely to have quoted him unwittingly. Speak the English language, and he’s impossible to avoid.

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    That’s in part because fellow artists draw so readily on him in their paintings, operas and ballets. Shakespeare’s influence is evident in pop culture as well: singer-songwriter Nick Lowe’s 1970s earworm, Cruel to be Kind, took its title from lines Hamlet addressed to his mother. “I must be cruel only to be kind,” the Prince of Denmark tells her in a wriggling kind of apology for killing a courtier and meddling in her new relationship. Hamlet also yielded the title of Agatha Christie’s theatrical smash, The Mousetrap, Alfred Hitchcock’s evocative spy thriller, North by Northwest, Ruth Rendell’s Put on by Cunning, Philip K Dick’s Time Out of Joint, and Jasper Fforde’s Something Rotten.

    It’s not just Hamlet, either. Sticking with latter-day minstrels, when Iron Maiden named their song Where Eagles Dare, they were borrowing a phrase from Richard III. Then there’s Tupac Shakur’s Something Wicked, a nod to a couplet uttered by one of the witches in Macbeth.

    Famous phrases

    These catchy titles barely gesture to Shakespeare’s influence on the minutiae of our lives. If you’ve ever been “in a pickle”, waited “with bated breath”, or gone on “a wild goose chase”, you’ve been quoting from The Tempest, The Merchant of Venice and Romeo and Juliet respectively.

    Next time you refer to jealousy as “the green-eyed monster”, know that you’re quoting Othello’s arch villain, Iago. (Shakespeare was almost self-quoting here, having first touched on green as the colour of envy in The Merchant of Venice, where Portia alludes to “green-eyed jealousy”.)

    Allow yourself to “gossip” (A Midsummer Night’s Dream), and you’re quoting him. “The be-all and end-all” is uttered by Macbeth as he murderously contemplates King Duncan, and “fair play” falls from Miranda’s lips in The Tempest. And he even invented the knock-knock joke in the Scottish play.

    Some phrases have become so enduringly well-used that they’re regarded as clichés – surely a compliment for an author this long gone. “A heart of gold”? You’ll find it in Henry V, while “the world’s mine oyster” crops up in The Merry Wives of Windsor.

    Life imitates art

    His impact endures not only in the way we express ourselves, but how we experience and process the world around us. Had Shakespeare not given us the words, would we truly feel “bedazzled” (The Taming of the Shrew)? Had he not taught us the word “gloomy” (Titus Andronicus), would that particular shade of despondency be a feeling we recognised? And could we “grovel” effectively (Henry VI, Part II) or be properly “sanctimonious” (The Tempest) had he not shown us how?

    Back in 2008, two antiquarian booksellers in the US, George Koppelman and Daniel Wechsler, declared that they’d found the dictionary Shakespeare used. The book, which they bought on eBay, was a copy of John Baret’s Alvearie, a popular late-16th-Century dictionary in four languages. It’s densely annotated throughout but the clincher, they claim, is the handwritten “word salad” on the tome’s blank back page, a sheet filled with a mix of French and English words, some of which ended up in Shakespeare’s plays. They’ve gone on to publish a book about it, Shakespeare’s Beehive, but their claims as to the dictionary’s provenance remain contentious.

    Victorian word expert F Max Muller estimated that Shakespeare used 15,000 words in his plays and poems, a portion of which he invented himself by merging existing words and anglicising vocabulary from foreign languages, changing nouns into verbs, and adding prefixes and suffixes. By contrast, Milton used a mere 8,000, and the Old Testament is made up of only 5,642. Meanwhile, an unschooled agricultural worker of the day would supposedly have said all that he had to say in fewer than 300 words.

    It’s now thought that Shakespeare used in excess of 20,000 words, and of those that were his own conjuring, many have become indispensable. Imagine not having the word bedroom, for example (that one cropped up for the first time in A Midsummer Night’s Dream). And what about “eyeball” (Henry VI Part 1), “puppy dog” (King John), “hurry” (The Comedy of Errors), “jaded” (Henry VI Part 2) or “kissing” (Love’s Labour’s Lost)?

    Dispute simmers on among lexicographers over just how many words and phrases Shakespeare actually coined, and how many he merely popularised by bedding them down in a memorable plot and vivid sentences. In recent years, academics have harnessed digital resources, simultaneously searching thousands of texts and concluding that his contribution to the English language has been overestimated.

    In 2011, Ward EY Elliott and Robert J Valenza of America’s Claremont McKenna College published a paper arguing that new words attributed to Shakespeare have probably been over-counted by a factor of at least two. Dr David McInnis, a Shakespeare professor at the University of Melbourne, has since accused the early compilers of the first Oxford English Dictionary of “bias”, saying they preferred famous literary sources when it came to finding examples of a word’s first usage. He’s also noted that, as a writer, Shakespeare would have wanted his audience to understand him, so most of the words he used would have been in circulation already.

    The OED increasingly reflects this: in the mid-20th Century, Shakespearean language expert Alfred Hart estimated Shakespeare’s tally of first citations stood at 3,200. Today, thanks in part to the greater availability of texts searchable by computers, that figure has dropped to around 1,700.

    In some ways, this makes Shakespeare’s flair and originality all the more impressive. His linguistic arsenal didn’t perhaps dwarf that of his contemporaries, and yet how he used it. His are the stories, the lines we remember. Not that 1,700 words is bad going for a lexical experimenter, especially when so many of them saturate our everyday speech.

    How did he manage it, you might wonder? It’s partly his turn of phrase. Would “fashionable” have caught on had he not set it in such a wry sentence as this in Troilus and Cressida? “For time is like a fashionable host, that slightly shakes his parting guest by th’ hand.”

    Then there’s the fact that these words are voiced by some unforgettable characters – men and women who, despite the extraordinary situations in which they tend to find themselves, are fully and profoundly human in both their strengths and frailties. It’s little wonder that critic Harold Bloom titled his 1998 book on the man Shakespeare: The Invention of the Human. If the mark of a great writer is that they’re still read, then perhaps the mark of an ingenious one is that they’re still spoken, too.

    This article was originally published in 2014.

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  • Dream Scenario review: Nicolas Cage is on peak form in this surreal, nightmare-filled dark comedy

    Dream Scenario review: Nicolas Cage is on peak form in this surreal, nightmare-filled dark comedy

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    In this delirious dark comedy, Nicolas Cage and director Kristoffer Borgli (Sick of Myself) take us down a rabbit hole, with the eccentric, unclassifiable star ideally paired to a filmmaker with a wonderfully mordant imagination. Cage plays Paul, a nondescript professor who, for no reason, starts popping up in other people’s dreams – first his family’s, then his students’ and strangers’ all over the world.

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    Cage’s name, of course, brings to mind his many over-the-top, meme-fuelling roles, and maybe his dramatic triumphs in films like the recent Pig (2021). But this film reminds us of how amusing he is as a schlubby sad sack, like Charlie Kaufman’s fictional, less talented twin, Donald, in Adaptation (2002). Paul is socially awkward and looks like a walking cliché of a professor – balding, with wire-rimmed glasses and a beard­. In a masterfully droll, low-key performance, Cage grounds the film in the reality of this ordinary man living in the suburbs with his wife (Julianne Nicholson) and two teenaged daughters.

    But he and Borgli also reveal Paul’s delusional expectations. He asks for an apology from a graduate school colleague whose recent publication borrowed a vague idea Paul floated decades before. And he hopes to find a publisher for an academic study in evolutionary biology – his book on ants – even though he has yet to start writing it or anything else.

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