Tag: steakhouse

The English duo behind the Hawksmoor says all the right things about opening their latest steakhouse in Chicago — inside the 137-year-old space that once housed the clubby LaSalle Power Co., deep-dish specialist Gino’s East, and Michael Jordan’s Restaurant.

But the massive renovations (they might as well have burned sage, ridding any sign of LaSalle Power Co.’s existence inside the 16,500-square-foot space) betray any humility. Huw Gott and Will Beckett carry confidence that Chicago, home of steakhouses such as Gibsons and Maple & Ash, will leave their palace of beef enamored; Beckett says Hawksmoor is the steakhouse of choice for fans of Michelin-starred and Beard-winning restaurants, and that matters in Chicago, the home of The Bear and the Beards. Hawksmoor encountered a similar environment when they debuted in New York in 2021. In a piece in February, Eater NY’s Robert Siestema called Hawksmoor “the anti-Peter Luger,” citing the menu’s variety, writing that diners could easily assemble a quality meal by using only starters and sides. Gott expounds on the menu’s variety. They have a vegetarian version of beef Wellington, made with cheese, plus oyster and shitake mushroom duxelles: “We want everyone who comes to be able to eat really well,” Gott says.

Hawksmoor

Hawksmoor

Hawksmoor

The charcoal comes from West Virginia.

Hawksmoor isn’t advertising where their beef is sourced, but it’s dry-aged Gott and Beckett ensure they’re doing the needed work to build relationships with local purveyors; the aforementioned veggie Wellington uses cheese from a Wisconsin dairy farm, for example. The steaks, including a 44-ounce Chateaubriand, are cooked over charcoal. The fries are cooked in tallow. Brunch and lunch service are on their way. Gott even teases that Chicago could experience the English tradition of a Sunday roast eventually.

Downtown restaurant owners are excited about Hawkmoor’s arrival — they’ve pegged Thursday, June 27 as the opening day. Restaurateur Sam Sanchez, known for John Barleycorn and Point & Feather, says it’s time to bring some electricity back downtown, something the pandemic sapped from River North and the Loop. Beckett has been commuting back and forth from England, overseeing the project, and has brought over key personnel from New York and other locations.

Gott and Becket have carved out a niche in the U.K., with some restaurant owners there asking for advice when it comes to international expansion. The friends have known each other since they were six years old and there’s a playful needling between them, reminiscent of a friendlier Statler and Waldorf. It’s apparent when Gott delves into the history of the space as the LaSalle Street Cable Car Powerhouse. He lights up, much to the chagrin of Beckett who bides his time before labeling him as a nerd: “I’ve got transit geek sides of my personality… my dad’s a train man,” Gott admits.

Visitors will see curved ceilings reminiscent of train cars, a green and white color scheme honoring old CTA branding, and light fixtures that bring back vintage times. Beckett calls his partner obsessive, taking days to research what could appear as minutiae to commoners. But those touches help elevate the dynamics of their dining rooms.

But to Hawksmoor’s credit, they backed away from building their restaurant around the history of the city’s stockyards. That’s low-hanging fruit to lean in Upton Sinclair’s The Jungle. Hawkmoor is a fully realized concept that’s seen success in England, New York, Dublin, and Edinburgh. Gott talks about the history of Beefsteak Clubs, male-dominated groups that surfaced in the 19th century. The words “Beef and Liberty ‘’ hang above the second-floor bar, a 76-seat dining room that can also be rented out for private events — including “beefsteaks” — a reference to a kind of secret society that would gather, and — you guessed it — nosh on steak. Beef and Liberty was a slogan that dates back to the 1700s. That nod to history doesn’t mean that Hawksmoor is interested in recreating the era. Beckett proudly admits that the customers who fill their seats aren’t just white guys posting steak videos on social media. They’re embracing a come-as-you-are environment and hope the first floor attracts happy hour revelers, though Beckett concedes “happy hour” has a different meaning in England where there are better drink specials. It just means post-work drinks in America, and that’s in part to local lawmakers.

Hawksmoor

Hawksmoor

There are other differences. The dessert menu will be called just that (it’s referred to as a pudding menu in England). Hawksmoor is proud of their cocktails and for the Chicago crowd, they’re serving up a negroni-inspired beverage made with Jeppson’s Malört.

Entering the restaurant space that once offered macaroni and cheese allegedly based on a recipe from Jordan’s wife at the time, the Gott found a way to pay homage. The third floor features two private event rooms. One of those, a 22-seat space, is called the Big Mike. Plainly, it’s a reference to a champion-winning cattle cow. But basketball superfans can embrace the name as the reason the city held annual summer parties in Grant Park in the ‘90s.

Chicago has already influenced the chain. Beckett says they’re serving an Italian beef sandwich at locations in the U.K. When asked if it would be authentic, with the proper giardiniera and sliced thin, he smiles.

“The best thing, you see, you won’t know,” Beckett says with a wink.

However, starting next week, Chicagoans won’t need to board a plane to visit Hawksmoor. Then they’ll have tangible proof of whether the British steakhouse is worthy of No. 23 or if it needs a jolt of electricity.

Hawksmoor, 500 N. LaSalle Drive, opening, Thursday, June 27, reservations via OpenTable.