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The bestselling author explores his favorite chophouses
Sumptous leather banquettes, tuxedoed captains and the extremely flattering light of restaurants like Clearman’s Steak ‘N Stein and Musso & Frank Grill captivate Eric Wareheim as much as the meat on the menu. The Emmy-nominated television producer, comedian, director and actor (Master of None; Tim and Eric Awesome Show, Great Job!) had an idea to visit and photograph 11 of his favorite comfort food restaurants for a book of stories, photographs and recipes.
That idea grew into Steak House: The People, the Places, the Recipes, out Oct. 14 from Ten Speed Press, as Wareheim hit the road, visiting more than 60 new and classic fine dining spots, barbecue joints and churrascos across the U.S. and Mexico that capture the special feeling of comfort and community the comedian holds dear.
At the beginning of the 21st century, best friends Wareheim and Tim Heidecker were fresh out of college and sending goofy videos to funny people they admired. Actor Bob Odenkirk invited the duo to Los Angeles and helped them launch a comedy empire that changed the art form. The pair recently invited Odenkirk and another friend and mentor, John C. Reilly, to dinner at Taylor’s the 1950s-era landmark in Koreatown, for a summit about Wareheim’s new book.
“They make me smile, but there’s a darkness to them, too,” Odenkirk says in the book. “My father spent a lot of time in country club bars and steakhouses with other salesmen, trying to emulate the Rat Pack.” Wareheim loves the literal darkness at Taylor’s. “I go right after work,” he says. “You walk in and you can’t see anything because your eyes are accustomed to the bright L.A. sun. The vibe is perfect.”
Wareheim is as invested in food and drink as he is in comedy. His first cookbook, Foodheim: A Culinary Adventure, was a New York Times bestseller. He also co-founded the Las Jaras line of natural wines, hosts the annual Beefsteak benefit dinner downtown with chef Neal Fraser and has a dream to open his own steakhouse.
Wareheim is always on his best behavior at the institutions he loves. “Respect the place. Don’t ask for crazy substitutions,” he says. “Tip really well, remember the name of your servers and say good-night. It’s about communication and being nice instead of stumbling out drunk. Be classy about it.”
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When friends ask if he’s been to their favorite spot, Wareheim reminds them of the realities of eating and photographing a lunch and two rich dinners (often with creamed corn, biscuits and a slice of cheesecake) every day while working on the book. “I had to stop for my health,” he says. “We sampled everything. It was intense, but I think it was worth it.”
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Chris Nichols
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