Tag: Spirea

These deciduous plants lose their leaves and go dormant in winter.

That may be a minor issue that you can easily work around, given all the positive traits of these plants.

Or maybe its lack of evergreen foliage will disqualify this woody shrub from a spot in your garden design.

Our guide to growing spirea covers how to cultivate these plants in your landscape.

But before you decide whether this shrub is right for you, let’s look at these topics:

Does Spirea Lose Leaves in the Winter?

Before you decide to grow spireas and then are disappointed in their winter appearance, it’s important to remember that while they are perennials, they are not evergreens.

What’s the difference? Perennials live year after year, though they may experience a period of dormancy in between seasons of growth.

Some live for a couple of years, others grow for decades.

Evergreens are perennials that keep most of their leaves (or needles) throughout the year. They may shed a portion of older foliage on occasion but never become bare.

Those plants that drop their leaves during the winter months are described as deciduous, and in many cases the foliage changes color in fall before it is shed, leaving behind bare branches.

Spirea are not evergreen, they lose their leaves in the winter. Read on to learn more about their life cycle.

The Spirea Life Cycle

The genus Spiraea includes about 80 different woody shrub species. 

Their hardiness range is between USDA Zones 4 to 8. Depending on the species, they may be more or less cold hardy, but they can be grown as perennials in most of the US.

Their appeal begins in spring or early summer when they blossom with clusters of pink, purple, or white flowers. These are nectar-rich and will draw hummingbirds and pollinators.

Once the flowers fade, consistent deadheading might encourage more blooms, but eventually, only the green or yellow leaves will remain.

As summer gives way to autumn, the leaves change color while remaining on the plant.

Some varieties are considered a top choice for beautiful orange fall color, while others sport leaves patterned or edged with bronze, burgundy, yellow, or various other hues.

With the advent of winter cold, or merely the shorter days in warmer areas, these shrubs lose their leaves before going dormant.

They’re not evergreen, but some gardeners consider the stark branches with the dry seed heads attractive in the winter landscape.

You can find tips for caring for spirea in winter in our guide.

Before deciding where, or if, to grow spirea in your garden, consider its winter appearance.

If your area doesn’t experience much snow in winter, for example, you may not want to plant a sprawling type somewhere it will be visible to all when it’s bare and the stems are brittle.

You may want to avoid growing it in the front garden, for example, or right outside a vast picture window.

Dormancy Workarounds

If you’re already hooked on spirea, I get that. These plants offer so many advantages, from the three-season beauty to the appeal to pollinators and hummingbirds.

So, if you’d like to grow them but aren’t enthusiastic about having dead-looking, dry shrubs in the winter landscape, consider a few of these workarounds.

First, you can grow your spirea in containers and spirit them away to a protected but not conspicuous area for their dormant months.

Or, consider choosing one of the smaller varieties to grow so you can place it next to an evergreen in the landscape.

When you plant a Japanese spirea (S. japonica) like Magic Carpet that spreads two or three feet instead of eight feet, it’s pretty easy to tolerate it sparse in the winter landscape.

You can learn more about nine appealing types in our guide.

And don’t forget you can always plant the spirea where you want their blooms and colorful foliage during the growing season, then camouflage them with strategically placed container-grown evergreens in the cold months.

For detailed information on growing shrubs in containers, see our guide.

One Season of Rest

These plants are so beautiful and versatile that it seems reasonable they’d need one season to lie dormant.

After all, the shrubs bloom in spring, stay green and leafy throughout the summer, and then color up beautifully in autumn. Shouldn’t they be able to take the winter off?

Have you determined whether spirea will suit your garden design and growing needs, or do you still have questions about their winter dormancy? The comments section below awaits your input.

And if you are looking for more tips on selecting or caring for these deciduous ornamental shrubs, read these guides next:

With a graceful, elegant form, bridalwreath makes an outstanding specimen shrub in beds, islands, and foundations, as well as adding multi-season interest as barriers, hedges, and seasonal screens.

Easy to cultivate and robust, these plants are cold hardy and go dormant for winter. But even the bare branches add interesting architectural shapes to the sleeping garden – perfect for hanging bird feeders or winter decorations.

Are you feeling the pull of this handsome and hardworking shrub? Then let’s tie the knot on how to grow bridalwreath spirea!

Here’s what you’ll find ahead:

What Is Bridalwreath Spirea?

Bridalwreath spirea is a species in the Spiraea genus, S. prunifolia, that’s native to temperate areas of China, Japan, Korea, and Taiwan where the plants grow on sunny slopes and in open, disturbed areas as well as in meadows.

A member of the rose (Rosaceae) family, this deciduous clumping shrub has an upright growth habit and elegant, arching canes.

Bridalwreath is also the common name for one of the first, and one of the most popular Spiraea hybrids known as Vanhoutte spirea, S. x vanhouetti, which is a cross between S. trilobata and S. cantoniensis.

It has the same mounding shape with cascades of white flowers, plus the same growth and cultivation needs as S. prunifolia.

S. cantoniensis is another species that goes by the common name bridalwreath and is one of the parents of the highly popular Vanhoutte types.

Bridalwreath is noted for the masses of double-petaled white flowers that bloom in clusters and corymbs, appearing on bare branches before the foliage emerges, and flowering for three to four weeks. Flowering typically occurs from March to May, depending on the region.

Individual flowers are small, only one-third of an inch in width, and some varieties have single flowers, such as S. prunifolia var. simpliciflora – but they’re difficult to source and don’t bloom for the same length of time as the double flower varieties.

Plants are easily grown in average, well-draining soil in a full sun location, and the seeds are mostly sterile but plants sucker readily.

These shrubs typically grow four to nine feet tall and wide and can develop an open, sprawling form without regular pruning.

The fine-toothed foliage has an elliptic or ovate shape, in colors of blue green to forest green and appears after the flowers are in place.

The shrubs develop attractive fall colors, with leaves turning intense shades of burgundy, glowing gold, maroon, fiery orange, plum, and scarlet.

Bridalwreath is a rugged and cold hardy plant, suitable for cultivation in USDA Zones 4 to 8, with some able to handle the colder temperatures of Zone 3 and the warmer temps of Zone 9.

Cultivation and History

The genus name Spiraea comes from the ancient Greek word speiraia, which means a coil and refers to the spiraling, alternate nature of the leaves.

The species epithet prunifolia means it has leaves similar to plants in the Prunus genus.

And the term “bridalwreath” is an old-fashioned moniker that refers to the long, twisting sprays of flowers that were fashioned into wreaths worn on the head for special occasions.

There’s an interesting twist to the naming of the species as well…

When S. prunifolia was discovered by Western botanists in the early 19th century, it was the double flowered form they happened upon – which is not a true botanical species but a hybrid, or horticultural variety, which had long been grown as an ornamental in Japan.

The eager adventurers gave the double flowered variant the species name while the true botanical type – the single flowered plants that grew in the wild – were later discovered and classified as a variety, S. prunifolia var simpliciflora for their simple, single flowers.

Specimens of S. prunifolia became available in Europe by the middle of the 19th century and in North America shortly after. And along the eastern seaboard, there are still remnants of some of the earliest plantings growing at old farmhouse sites, although the buildings are long gone.

The seeds of many varieties are sterile and cultivars don’t reproduce identical to the parents, but plants sucker abundantly and these plants are easily propagated by stem cuttings.

And although there’s a lot of online information stating that bridalwreath is invasive, according to the Invasive Plant Atlas of the US, it doesn’t appear on any state or national invasive species list.

Bridalwreath Spirea Propagation

The easiest and fastest way to propagate bridalwreath spirea is to take softwood cuttings during the growing season.

Starting plants from seed is not recommended as the offspring produced don’t always replicate the phenotype, or physical characteristics, of the parent plant.

Propagation through hardwood cuttings and ground layering are also viable options – read about these methods in our guide to three ways to propagate spirea bushes.

To start new plants from softwood cuttings, in late spring to midsummer, cut 10-inch segments of pliable stem tips.

Strip the leaves from the lower half of the snipped stems and dip the cut end in rooting hormone if desired.

Fill a small six-inch pot with moist starter soil and insert four or five prepared stems, spaced evenly and without the leaves touching.

Cover the pots with a plastic bag and seal to retain moisture, but don’t allow the bag to touch the leaves – use chopsticks or small stakes to keep it away from foliage.

Locate the pot in a spot with dappled shade and allow cuttings to root.

Avoid full sun locations, which can cook the tender cuttings, and check occasionally to ensure the soil stays moist. Water gently as needed.

Rooting takes place in four to six weeks. Once new growth appears after rooting, repot cuttings into individual containers and place in full sun for the remainder of the growing season.

Before freezing temperatures arrive, nestle your pots of newly rooted cuttings into a protected site and provide a protective, four-inch mulch of shredded bark or straw to shield the roots.

Plant out in spring after all danger of frost has passed.

How to Grow Bridalwreath Spirea

Bridalwreath is easily grown in well-draining soil with average fertility and a lightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0. It needs a full sun to partial shade location, although flowering and fall foliage colors are better in full sun.

Plant out rooted cuttings or nursery specimens in spring after all danger of frost has passed – this gives them ample time to get settled and established before cold winter weather arrives.

Prepare the planting site by loosening the soil to a depth and width of at least 12 inches, or twice the depth and width of the rootball.

Add in a shovelful or two of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. S. prunifolia plants aren’t heavy feeders, but enriching the soil at planting time helps them off to a good start.

Mix in a shovelful or two of drainage grit if needed, using materials like landscape sand, pea gravel, or stone chips to prevent standing water.

Before planting, mix in two or three tablespoons of bone meal to promote fast, strong root growth.

Set the plants in place at the same depth as their nursery pots, or with the top of the rootball about two inches below the soil line.

Backfill with soil and gently firm in place.

Water lightly to settle and keep the soil lightly moist for new plants until they’re established.

Bridalwreath spirea is somewhat drought tolerant once established but new plants should be watered regularly their first year.

After plants are established, allow the top two or three inches of soil to dry out between waterings.

Not all bridalwreath types are suitable for growing in containers, but there are newer dwarf varieties that adjust nicely to larger planters.

For container growth, use large pots with drainage holes to ensure well-draining soil. I like to cover the drainage holes with two inches of loose materials like broken pottery to prevent wet soil.

Fill containers with your favorite potting soil and transplant as outlined above.

Place containers in a full sun location.

Container plants usually require more frequent watering – allow only the top two inches of soil to dry out between applications.

Growing Tips

Bridalwreath spirea is easily cultivated and the following tips help to keep them looking great:

• Although bridalwreath can handle partial shade, it produces more flowers and brighter fall foliage colors in full sunlight.
• Provide well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0.
• You may need to water container plants more frequently than those planted in the ground. Allow the top two inches of soil to dry out between applications.

Now let’s move on to what they need for regular maintenance.

Pruning and Maintenance

When left on its own, bridalwreath spirea can develop an open, leggy appearance.

To keep the plant’s size in check or to maintain a tighter form, prune after flowering.

Damaged or dead canes can be cleaned out in late winter but keep in mind that this spring-flowering species produces flowers on old wood – pruning to reshape or resize while they’re dormant should be avoided to prevent flower loss.

However, it’s easiest to thin clumps or remove unwanted suckers while plants are still dormant in late winter.

Use clean, sharp garden shears to thin out canes and remove suckers by cutting them below the soil line.

All other pruning should be done after flowering.

After flowers have faded, deadhead with clean, sharp shears to clean and tidy branches, removing flower clusters at the base where they attach to the canes.

To reduce your shrub’s size or to reshape, use clean, sharp garden shears to cut branching stems just above the collar that attaches them to the main stems.

Avoid cutting back branching stems part way down their length as this encourages branching at the cut, which can cause canes to become tangled and top-heavy and often results in breakage.

You can learn more about pruning spirea in our guide.

To feed your plants, spread a two-inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure over the root zone in early spring once new growth starts to emerge.

Alternatively, you can apply slow-release granular pellets in spring using a balanced formula such as 10-10-10 NPK.

Treat aphids with a strong blast of water from the garden hose, spraying on the underside of infected leaves and stems as well. And check out our guide for more information about eradicating aphids.

Spider mites are tiny pests that thrive in hot, dry weather. They’re also sapsuckers and cause spotting or yellowing of leaves plus leaf drop.

Spray spider mites with the garden hose or use an insecticidal soap for aggressive infestations. Our guide to spider mites has more information.

Fire blight is a destructive bacterial disease that causes stem cankers in spring. These appear first as a loose, green or tan ooze that darkens and streaks stems.

Prune out infected wood several inches below the problem areas and destroy the diseased pieces. Be sure to disinfect your cutting shears between each cut with a 10 perfect chlorine bleach solution (one part chlorine bleach mixed with nine parts water).

Leaf spot can be caused by the spores of soilborne fungi splashing onto leaves and foliage.

The damage is usually mild and can be treated by removing infected stems. Keep beds clean of leaf debris and avoid overhead watering to minimize infestations.

Powdery mildew is another fungal issue that can crop up, covering tender growth in fuzzy webs that dwarfs and stunts new growth and causes leaf drop plus stem collapse.

Prevention is the best treatment for powdery mildew. Plant in full sun with ample air circulation, keep beds free of debris, and avoid overhead watering. Learn more about treating powdery mildew in our guide.

Best Uses for Bridalwreath Spirea

A star in easy-care landscapes, bridalwreath spirea has a range of uses.

Highly ornamental with three seasons of interest, these handsome shrubs make an excellent flowering specimen or accent for foundations, islands, and layered into mixed shrub plantings.

They’re terrific for adding flowers and fall colors to borders, and can be massed in groups for barriers, hedges, and screens.

And they’re outstanding for filling a sunny, neglected corner of your garden or for dotting woodland margins.