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  • Valley fever is a growing risk in Central California; few visitors ever get a warning

    Valley fever is a growing risk in Central California; few visitors ever get a warning

    When Nora Bruhn bought admission to the Lightning in a Bottle arts and music festival on the shores of Kern County’s Buena Vista Lake earlier this spring, her ticket never mentioned she might end up with a fungus growing in her lungs.

    After weeks of night sweats, “heaviness and a heat” in her left lung, a cough that wouldn’t quit and a painful rash on her legs, her physician brother said she might have valley fever, a potentially deadly disease caused by a dust-loving fungus that lives in the soils of the San Joaquin Valley.

    Bruhn said she hadn’t been warned beforehand that Kern County and Buena Vista Lake are endemic for coccidioides — the fungus that causes the disease.

    “If there had been a warning that there’s a potentially lethal fungal entity in the soil, there’s no way I would have gone,” said the San Francisco-based artist. “Honestly, I would have just been paranoid to breathe the whole entire time I was there.”

    The incidence and range of valley fever has grown dramatically over the last two decades, and some experts warn that the fungus is growing increasingly resistant to drugs — a phenomenon they say is due to the spraying of antifungal agents on area crops.

    As annual cases continue to rise, local health officers have sought to increase awareness of the disease and its symptoms, which are often misdiagnosed. This messaging however focuses only on Kern County and other Central Valley locations and rarely reaches those who live outside Kern County, or other high-risk areas.

    In the case of the Lightning in a Bottle festival, Bruhn said she wasn’t provided with any information about the risk on her ticket, or in materials provided to her by the event organizers. As far as she can recall, there were no signs or warnings at the site where she ate, slept, danced and inhaled dust for six straight days.

    And she wasn’t the only one infected. According to state health officials, 19 others were diagnosed with coccidioidomycosis in the weeks and months following the event. Five were hospitalized.

    According to a statement provided by the California Department of Public Health, officials have been in communication with organizers and “encouraged” them to notify “attendees about valley fever and providing attendees with recommendations to follow up with healthcare providers if they develop illness.”

    Do LaB, the company that stages the festival, said through a spokesperson that it adheres to the health and safety guidance provided by federal, state and local authorities. “Health and safety is always the primary concern,” they said.

    The company’s website warns festivalgoers about the prevalence of dust — but doesn’t mention the fungus or the disease.

    “Some campgrounds and stage areas will be on dusty terrain,” the website says. “We strongly recommend that everyone bring a scarf, bandana, or dust mask in case the wind kicks up! We also recommend goggles and sunglasses.”

    Bruhn said that’s not enough.

    “I think it’s really irresponsible to have a festival in a place where breathing is possibly a life-threatening act,” she said.

    Kern County’s health department is also in discussions with the production company.

    Kern County’s Buena Vista Lake was the site of the Lightning in a Bottle festival this spring.

    (Nora Bruhn)

    In California, the number of valley fever cases has risen more than 600% since 2000. In 2001, fewer than 1,500 Californians were diagnosed. Last year, that number was more than 9,000.

    Most people who are infected will not experience symptoms, and their bodies will fight off the infection naturally. Those who do suffer symptoms however are often hard-pressed to recognize them, as they resemble the onset of COVID or the flu. This further complicates efforts to address the disease.

    Take for example the case of Brynn Carrigan, Kern County’s director of public health.

    In April, Carrigan began getting a lot of headaches. Not really a “headache person,” she chalked them up to stress: Managing a high-profile public health job while also parenting two teenagers. But as the days and weeks went by, the headaches became more frequent, longer in duration and increasingly painful. She also developed an agonizing sensitivity to light.

    “I’ve never experienced sensitivity to light like that … all the curtains in my house had to be closed. I was wearing sunglasses inside — because even the clock on my microwave and my oven, and the cable box … oh, my God, it caused excruciating pain,” she said. In order to leave the house, she had to put a blanket over her head because the pain caused by sunlight was unbearable.

    She also developed nausea and began vomiting, which led to significant weight loss. Soon she became so exhausted she couldn’t shower without needing to lie down and sleep afterward.

    Her doctors ordered blood work and a CT scan. They told her to get a massage, suggesting her symptoms were the result of tension. Another surmised her symptoms were the result of dehydration.

    Eventually, it got so bad she was hospitalized.

    When test results came in, her doctors told Carrigan she had a case of disseminated valley fever, a rare but very serious form of the disease that affects the brain and spine rather than the lungs. In retrospect, she said she probably had the disease for months.

    A tractor plows a field as a trail of dust rises behind it.

    Valley fever, a fungal infection, spreads through dust.

    (Jason Armond/Los Angeles Times)

    And yet, here she was, arguably the most high-profile public health official in a county recognized as a hot spot for the fungus and the disease, misdiagnosed by herself and other health professionals repeatedly before someone finally decided to test her for the fungus.

    Now she’ll have to take expensive antifungal medications for the rest of her life — medication that has resulted in her losing her hair, including her eyelashes, as well as making her skin and mouth constantly dry.

    As a result of Carrigan’s experience, her agency is running public service announcements on TV, radio and in movie theaters. She does news conferences, talks to reporters and runs presentations for outdoor workforces — solar farms, agriculture and construction — to educate those “individuals that have no choice but to be outside and really disturbing the soil.” She’s also hoping to get in schools.

    But she realizes her influence is geographically constrained. She can really only speak to the people who live there.

    For people who come to Kern County for a visit — like Bruhn and the 20,000 other concertgoers who attended Lightning in a Bottle this year — once they leave, they’re on their own.

    Dust rises behind a truck on a dirt road.

    A truck raises dust on a dirt road in Bakersfield in March 2022.

    (Jason Armond/Los Angeles Times)

    Outside of California, valley fever is also prevalent in Arizona and some areas of Nevada, New Mexico, Utah and Texas, as well as parts of Mexico and Central and South America

    Experts worry that as the range of valley fever spreads — whether by a changing climate, shifting demographics, or increased construction in areas once left to coyotes, desert rodents and cacti — more and more severe cases will appear.

    They’re also concerned that the fungus is building resistance to the medicines used to fight it.

    Antje Lauer, a professor of microbiology at Cal State Bakersfield and a “cocci” fungus expert, said she and her students have found growing pharmaceutical resistance in the fungus, the result of the use of agricultural fungicides on crops.

    She said the drug fluconazole — the fungicide doctors prescribe off-label to treat the disease — is nearly identical in molecular structure to the antifungal agents “being sprayed against plant pathogens. … So when a pathogen gets exposed via those pesticides, the valley fever fungus is also in those soils. It gets exposed and is building an immunity.”

    It’s the kind of thing that really concerns G.R. Thompson, a professor of medicine at UC Davis and an expert in the treatment of valley fever and other fungal diseases.

    “If you ask me, what keeps you up at night about valley fever or fungal infections?, it’s what we do to the environment” he said. “We learned that giving chickens and livestock antibiotics was bad, because even though they grew faster, it led to antibiotic resistance. Right now, we’re kind of having our own reckoning with fungal infections in the environment. We’re putting down antifungals on our crops, and now our fungi are become resistant before our patients have ever even been treated.”

    He said he and other health and environment professionals are working with various local, state and federal agencies “to make sure that everybody’s talking to each other. You know that what we’re putting down on our crops is not going to cause problems in our hospitals.”

    Because at the same time, he said, there’s a growing concern that the fungus has become more severe in terms of clinical outcomes.

    “We’re seeing more patients in the hospital this year than ever before, which has us wondering … has the fungus changed?” he said, quickly adding that health experts are actively investigating this question and don’t have an answer.

    John Galgiani, who runs the Valley Fever Center for Excellence out of the University of Arizona in Tucson, is hopeful that a vaccine may be forthcoming.

    He said a Long Beach-based medical startup called Anivive got a contract to take a vaccine that’s being developed for dogs — outdoor-loving creatures with noses to the ground and a penchant for digging, and therefore susceptible to the disease — and reformulate it to make it suitable for human clinical trials.

    He said prison populations, construction workers, farmworkers, firefighters, archaeologists — anyone who digs in the soil, breaths it in or spends time outdoors in these areas — would be suitable populations for such inoculations.

    But he, like everyone else The Times spoke with, believes education and outreach are the most important tools in the fight against the disease.

    As there is with any other risky activity, he said, if people are aware, such knowledge empowers them with choice — and in this case, the tools they need to help themselves should they fall ill.

    Susanne Rust

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  • Fall Planter Ideas + Simple Container Care and Maintenance

    Fall Planter Ideas + Simple Container Care and Maintenance

    These fall planter ideas will have your home looking festive for the autumn. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a first-time planter, the simple tips and tricks in this post will help your container gardens thrive this season. 

    As the season starts to change from the hot, long days of summer to the cooler, shorter days of fall, you may be wondering what to do with your container gardens or how to start one.

    Containers are the perfect way to garden in a small space like a patio or a deck. But containers also make for great features in large gardens too.

    Either way, containers draw the eye. One of the most fun months to enjoy container gardening is in the fall. That being said, they need some care and maintenance to keep them thriving as temperatures begin to drop.

    Near the end of the summer, the plants will start to look a bit tired. They’ve worked hard to grow in a confined space, and it’s time for a little care.

    Here are some tips for how to refresh your container gardens and transition them for the next season with these fall planter ideas.

    potted plants for fall in back of car with dogpotted plants for fall in back of car with dog
    Fresh flowers for my fall planters! Ozzie loves a trip to the garden centre too.

    First: Fall Maintenance Must-Dos

    Whether you’re growing vegetables or flowers in your containers, fall is a great time to clean up the container and prepare it for winter. Here are a few things you can do.

    • Cut back any of the 4D’s: dead, diseased, damaged, or dying plant material and discard it.
    • Harvest any vegetables that are ready to be harvested for fresh eating or preserving.
    • Deadhead any blooms to encourage new blooms and extend flowering time.
    • Allow flowers and vegetables to go to seed so you can collect and save seed for next year.
    • Remove any overgrown perennials, shrubs, or trees, and plant them in the garden or a larger pot.

    For more fall maintenance ideas, check out this post.

    fall container garden filled with succulents, and blooming flowersfall container garden filled with succulents, and blooming flowers
    Once you’ve cleaned up the existing container, you can refresh it with new plants.

    Annual Container Garden Maintenance

    When the plants are finished fruiting, flowering, or producing seeds, and you have harvested all that you need, remove all the remaining plant material from the pot. Use a soil knife to loosen up the soil around the roots and remove the plants and root balls from the soil.

    If the plant has become root bound and the entire pot comes up in a net of roots, you can toss the whole thing in the compost bin. If the roots do not extend throughout the entire pot, then shake off the soil into a large bucket or a wheelbarrow.

    Wash the pot well using soap and water before replanting or storing the pot for winter.

    freshly washed terra cotta potsfreshly washed terra cotta pots
    Terracotta pots can crack in the winter if not stored properly in the fall.

    Perennial Container Garden Maintenance

    If you live in a cold area, the only containers that should be left out over the winter are those that are cold-hardy and meant to weather the temperature drop in your area. Of course, the same is true of the plants in the containers. But if you’ve chosen the pots and perennials that will successfully overwinter in your climate, fall is a great time for some routine maintenance on all of them.

    Prune trees and shrubs according to the four D’s as well as size and shape, as can be seen in these guides:

    You can also divide and transplant any perennials that are growing too large for their container. See how to divide perennials here.

    Precious or more tender plants may need to be moved into an unheated garage or indoors for the winter. I overwinter all of my hardy winter succulents in unglazed terracotta pots under a deck or under an outdoor bench.

    Fall Perennial container with rudbeckia in an orange potFall Perennial container with rudbeckia in an orange pot
    Rudbeckia flowers are great perennials that last from summer to fall.

    Tree and Shrub Container Garden Maintenance

    Trees and shrubs in containers are more vulnerable to frost damage than those in the ground because the containers have less soil mass, and the roots are less insulated. For smaller pots or more tender perennials, trees, and shrubs, move the containers to a warmer, more protected spot in the garden under a deck or covered area that keeps snow and frost off of the pot and plants.

    Large planters or trees that cannot be moved can be insulated using burlap or chicken wire and straw. The book Container Garden Complete by Jessica Walliser has a great section in chapter 5 on the details of how to overwinter both tender and hardy plants which I refer to often.

    Fall container garden outside on a porchFall container garden outside on a porch
    You may need to move your potted trees and shrubs into a more protected part of the garden.

    Fall Container Soil Mix Recipe

    At the end of the season, it’s a good time to freshen up your soil. If there were no signs of disease or pests on the plants or in the soil, the soil can be reused by mixing it in equal amounts with compost and soil mix.

    If you prefer to make your own container garden soil, you can find my DIY container soil recipe here.

    soil in potssoil in pots

    Fall Planter Ideas

    There are so many fun ways you can plant containers for each season. But, there’s something about fall that seems extra fun! Here are some of my favourite fall planter ideas that will look lovely on any porch.

    Colourful Fall Foliage Planter

    This pretty fall planter idea showcases all those lovely colours of the season. For many of my fall planters, I go shopping for some fresh annual plant material such as mums and pansies that are more hardy for the fall.

    I leave behind (or add new) perennials with vibrant foliage colour like Heuchera, Euonymous, Sedum and Gaultheria. Don’t forget to refresh the soil with 1 part compost and 1 part soil mix.

    foliage container with fall plantsfoliage container with fall plants
    Warm oranges and reds are great fall foliage colours.

    Planted Pumpkin

    It doesn’t get more fall than this! This container garden idea uses a pumpkin as the planter and adds season-appropriate mums to the mix.

    Mix 1 part of your existing soil with one part fresh soil and add in fall-themed plants for the holidays. At the end of the holiday season, when the pumpkin starts to decompose, remove any perennials. Then, simply discard the whole planter—soil, pumpkin, and spent plants—into the compost bin.

    This guide will show you how to grow and care for hardy mumsThis guide will show you how to grow and care for hardy mums

    Spring Bulbs in Pots

    Believe it or not, but getting your spring containers ready starts in the fall. Especially if you have a bulb plant that needs to have a winter’s chill.

    Plan for a gorgeous spring display by loading layers of spring bulbs into a container filled with fresh soil. Layer and plant bulbs so that you get a continuous display of gorgeous flowers throughout the spring (see how to do that in this post).

    Make a soil mix that is light and airy to keep the bulbs insulated through the colder months.

    Hardy bulbs that need a winter’s chill can be planted in a pot. Then, the pot can be moved to an unheated garage, under a deck, or wrapped with insulation to keep the container and bulbs chilled but not freezing. In the spring when the soil warms up, move the container into place. Then enjoy watching how fast you get to see the show.

    In areas where winters are mild, the container can be left in place. I like to use a winter arrangement decorating the soil above the bulbs.

    You’ll be happy you put in the work when the bulbs emerge in the spring.

    Outdoor Holiday Arrangement

    Similarly, if you want to have holiday container gardens, fall is the perfect time to start planning for them.

    These displays need no special soil as the plants used are cut branches and leaves used. This outdoor botanical arrangement that will be discarded in the spring. No additional soil or fertilizer is needed as the old potting soil can be used to hold the arrangement in place.

    Simply add in cut evergreen branches along with decorative cones and seed heads to make a festive display to last until spring.

    Create a festive holiday window box with a wood planter and some fresh greenery. You will quickly have a long lasting planter to freshen up the outdoors.Create a festive holiday window box with a wood planter and some fresh greenery. You will quickly have a long lasting planter to freshen up the outdoors.

    FAQ About Fall Planters

    What to put in a planter for fall?

    There are many annuals that perform well in the fall and even into the winter in mild areas. These include calendula, pansies, mums, celosia, coleus, nasturtium, ornamental kale, snapdragons, sunflowers, and sweet William.

    Some fall perennials include rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan), echinacea (coneflower), stonecrop, Russian sage, rose mallow, Japanese anemone, and aster.

    How do you transition to fall planters?

    Start off by seeing what you can salvage from your existing containers. Trim back any dead, overgrown, or already flowered/gone to seed plant material. Remove any plants that have finished flowering entirely.

    Next, add some fresh plant materials. Head to the garden centre and look for fall annuals and perennials—they should be on display and advertised this time of year. Use them to fill in the gaps, and eventually, they will take over as the focal point for the container as the summer flowers begin to die.

    Do I have to change the soil in my planters every year?

    Most plants need to be repotted every 12 months, so it’s a good idea to refresh your container’s soil. I toss anything covered in roots into the compost. If there is still loose soil, I mix in compost and new soil the following spring to freshen up the soil for the next round of plants.

    fall planter flowersfall planter flowers
    Coral Bells ‘Peachberry Ice’ and Rudbeckia ‘August Forest’

    What do your fall containers look like this year? Let us know in the comments below!

    More Fall Garden Tips

    Stephanie Rose

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  • Try These 13 Natural Mulches & Ditch the Dyed Bark and Rubber! – Garden Therapy

    Try These 13 Natural Mulches & Ditch the Dyed Bark and Rubber! – Garden Therapy

    Don’t even think about getting that bright red mulch when there are so many better, more inexpensive organic materials you can use instead! Let me explain natural mulch and the different materials you can use to mulch the garden.

    Mulch is a word you hear often in the gardening space. We use it a lot, from suppressing weeds to conserving moisture to making the top layer of our garden look good.

    What many people think of when they picture mulch is the classic bits of wood shavings and pieces. It’s often a nice natural cedar that smells heavenly or…heaven forbid…dyed red.

    But this is really only one kind of mulch. And it’s one of the more expensive ones!

    Today, I want to talk to you all about the natural mulches we can use in our garden and why they’re a much better option than the stuff you buy at the landscape supply store.

    Natural mulch is one of the many practices you’ll find in my book, The Regenerative Garden. If you’re looking for more ideas on how to flip the traditional garden up on its head in lieu of more sustainable spaces, be sure to check it out!

    What is Natural Mulch?

    Mulch sits on top of the soil and acts as a protective layer of organic material. While most think of wood for mulch, there are many more natural materials you can use as mulch (I’ll get into that shortly!).

    Like I said, many people use unnatural mulches like plastic, shredded tires, or dyed bark. These can leech contaminants into your garden and just aren’t worth it when there are so many other natural materials that you can use as a mulch.

    I joke about dyed mulch all the time. I think it’s one of the worst things to add to a garden! I see it as lawful evil, where it’s popular and accepted but really not a good idea for the environment.

    Meanwhile, my method of chop and drop mulching is chaotic good. If I see plant material, I scoop it up and put it in the garden.

    Some people will have issues with this. I remember the realtor taking one look at my last house and all the plant material in the garden beds and suggesting I top it off with soil instead.

    But I always ask, do you like the forest? Because that is what we’re going for. You can have a neat and tidy look that models a living room or a natural space that mimics our forests.

    leaving behind fallen debris as natural mulchleaving behind fallen debris as natural mulch
    Mulches are incredibly popular with permaculturalists because of their regenerative properties for soil.

    Benefits of Natural Mulch

    Mulch has SO many benefits, many of which you might not get if you use store-bought stuff instead of what’s already in your garden.

    Mulch is a soil insulator that works year-round. It helps to keep the soil temperature more consistent, meaning it can help protect the base of plants, roots, and bulbs in the winter months but also keep things cooler during the hot summer days.

    It also helps to conserve moisture, which is very helpful for full sun areas. It reduces your need to add supplemental water all the time by preventing surface evaporation.

    If you have a weed problem, you can also apply a layer of mulch to prevent the seeds from getting light and germinating.

    Finally, it will decompose slowly and add nutrients back into your soil. I never add any fertilizer to my garden beds, allowing nothing but my layers of mulch and compost to go back in and feed the soil.

    natural leaf mulch in an urban woody settingnatural leaf mulch in an urban woody setting
    A natural forest floor is covered in mulch.

    What to Use as Natural Mulch

    So, what can you actually use from your garden that will work as a natural mulch? I’ve got plenty of ideas for you, and if you still want the neat and tidy look, some of these can still give you that. Try one of these thirteen natural materials that make wonderful mulches.

    Compost

    Compost is what I use the most in my garden, and it appears like fresh, dark soil. I like to add about two inches of compost in the spring before the growing season really begins. The spring rain will also help water the microorganisms into the soil below.

    scoop of compostscoop of compost
    Compost is garden gold for your garden.

    Leaf Mould

    Never, ever bag your leaves in plastic bags and send it to the dump. Instead, use the leaf mould of partially decomposed or chopped leaves as mulch. It breaks down quite quickly and works wonderfully in vegetable gardens.

    This is best done in the fall when you can pile your dried leaves, wait a few weeks for them to begin composting, and then chop them up with a shear or a lawn mower to sprinkle over your garden bed.

    fallen leaves on the groundfallen leaves on the ground
    Only use leaves free from pests and disease.

    Wood Chips

    Wood chips are very popular for those who want a neat and tidy look. Just PLEASE don’t buy the dyed stuff as it’s not good for your garden and soil.

    Wood chips will last for multiple seasons and are often inexpensive and readily available when bought from an arborist or local source. As they slowly break down, they feed beneficial fungi and create a strong mycelium layer.

    Rocks

    Another popular tidy option is to use decorative rocks such as river stones, gravel, or volcanic rock. Of course, they won’t decompose. They do not add beneficial microbes or bacteria but will prevent water loss.

    Keep in mind that it will absorb and hold heat and cold. A layer of cardboard under the rocks can help.

    Pine Straw/Conifer Needles

    Take a page of out woodland gardens and allow the cones and needles from your evergreens to remain where they fall. You can also spread it to neighbouring gardening beds.

    pine needles and pine cones on forest floor as natural mulchpine needles and pine cones on forest floor as natural mulch
    Woodland perennials love this mulch.

    Straw

    Many rural homesteads will use straw, considering how readily available it is. Just avoid hay, as it can contain weed seeds!

    It’s beneficial to apply straw in the fall as an insulator and remove it in the spring, followed by a new layer of compost.

    sheet mulching with straw on a large garden bedsheet mulching with straw on a large garden bed
    Use straw to create a strong layer of winter protection for annual crops, tender perennials, trees, and shrubs.

    Cardboard

    People love using cardboard since it’s free, and we all have lots of it. Use cardboard as winter protection for garden beds in rainy areas to prevent nutrients from leaching from the soil. Make sure to remove the cardboard sheets in the spring and compost them.

    You can use cardboard at other times of the year; just make sure to break it into small pieces so the soil still gets some airflow.

    cardboard mulchingcardboard mulching
    Carboard acts as a carbon source.

    Grass Clippings

    Your lawn would love it if you left the grass clippings after moving. They will slowly break down and create a soil-protecting mulch that will feed the grass’s roots. Letting your grass flower can also help to reseed your lawn!

    green lawngreen lawn
    If you’re mowing, you might as well feed the lawn with the grass clippings.

    Living Mulch

    Groundcovers can provide many of the same benefits of other organic material. Plant low-growing perennial and native plants no higher than 12 inches. Ideally, ensure they are hardy enough to be lightly tread upon so you still have access to the plants in the garden.

    ground cover plantsground cover plants
    Groundcovers look wonderful in gardening beds that aren’t often disrupted.

    Chop and Drop

    This is another one of my favourite natural mulch methods. Whenever you cut back plant material, you leave it on the soil surface to decompose in place.

    The leaves, stems, and flower heads will then feed the roots of their own kind, mimicking how they fertilize the soil in nature. Just avoid plants that have gone to seed, unless you intend for those seeds to grow.

    chop and drop natural mulchchop and drop natural mulch
    In the fall, top your chop and drop with leaf mould and compost for a strong base to decompose come spring.

    Snow

    Many won’t consider snow mulch, but it is extremely useful for protecting the soil temperature and plant roots in cold climates. There’s no need to move snow; just allow it to fall and sit on your garden beds on a snowy day.

    rosemary in the snowrosemary in the snow
    Snow protects garden beds from dips in temperature.

    Aquatic Plants

    If you have a water garden environment, you can add your vigorous or even invasive aquatic plants to dry land gardens. Because the conditions are too dry, they will decompose and protect the soil.

    wildlife pond from the regenerative gardenwildlife pond from the regenerative garden
    Thin overgrown aquatic plants and use them as mulch on dry land.

    Seaweed

    If you have a seaside garden, seaweed works well as a mulch where the plants can handle salt spray and salt accumulation in the soil. Forage for seaweed sustainably, and only take what you need from the beach rather than in the ocean. Chop it or run it over with a mower before applying it to the garden.

    garden with dried plant debris on soilgarden with dried plant debris on soil

    Those are some great natural mulch ideas to try! In the comments below, let me know which of them you use in your garden or are planning to use.

    More Ways to Try Regenerative Gardening

    Try These 13 Natural Mulches & Ditch the Dyed Bark and Rubber!Try These 13 Natural Mulches & Ditch the Dyed Bark and Rubber!

    Stephanie Rose

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  • Nothing Grows in My Yard. What Can I Do? – Garden Therapy

    Nothing Grows in My Yard. What Can I Do? – Garden Therapy

    Space is the number one thing gardeners want more of. But what happens when you have the space, but nothing grows in it? Front yards are notoriously difficult to grow in for urban areas, and there are actually quite a few reasons why your garden or yard may be struggling. But not all hope is lost!

    Not so long ago, I received this question and photo from a reader…

    “I live in Houston, Texas, in a subdivision. We have two large oak trees in the front yard that we trim every spring. But my front flower bed will not grow anything!! We cut the tree limbs back further to help let In sunlight. Still, nothing grows. We have removed all the soil and planted new things several times. I even left roses in the pots ( I gave up and moved them to the backyard, and they are beautiful now). What can I do??”

    front yard with a sparse lawn and empty flower bed

    This is such a frustrating experience that is, unfortunately, way too common. Many people struggle to get their yards to support the growth of plants, especially those in the front.

    If your house faces similar issues, not all hope is lost. Read on to see why your yard might have issues growing plants and what you can do about it.

    white dogwood tree along sidewalk strip
    Don’t let this discourage you from growing large trees! This dogwood tree was very beloved to me in my old garden.

    Caught Before It’s Too Late

    Back when I was house hunting, I found a really lovely house for sale in my neighbourhood. At first, it ticked off all the boxes. It had these beautiful old-growth trees on the front street, a nice little backyard, and a great interior layout.

    But then I looked at the soil, and my heart sank. I knew nothing was going to grow there.

    I couldn’t tell you exactly why that is, as I don’t carry a soil test kit wherever I go, but I suspected that those old-growth trees were causing a bigger issue for surrounding vegetation.

    Sure enough, I looked at all the houses on the street, and none had gardens. While someone might be able to do raised beds and containers, that isn’t my preferred way of gardening. I wanted a place where I could landscape entirely.

    And so, as a gardener, I couldn’t imagine myself living there anymore despite it being a lovely house.

    clematis vine entrance
    While we all wish our front yards could look like this, it helps to work with what you have rather than against it.

    The Problem With Large Street Trees

    The old growth trees were a big indicator for me. Of course, they provide plenty of shade which can make it difficult for some plants to grow underneath.

    They also have extensive root systems. When you look up at the tree, think about how the root system will be equally as big—oftentimes even larger.

    That’s an oldie. A tree of such a large size will need to gather lots of nutrients and water from the surrounding soil to feed the entire tree. This makes it really, really hard for smaller plants to compete with a giant like that.

    In some cases, turf grasses can’t even grow. You’ll end up with moss and lichen as companion plants, as they grow well with trees.

    So you’re left with a front yard that struggles to grow anything.

    Stephanie with the power planter in front of large oak tree
    At my previous rental house, we had very large oak trees, which made it difficult to plant under. But I persisted, which you can read about here.

    Allelopathic Trees That Produce Chemicals

    Some trees are even bigger bullies (or geniuses—however you look at it). These trees produce chemicals that will prevent other plants from growing. They don’t want to compete with other trees, so this can really prevent growth in small urban areas. They’re known as allelopathic.

    For instance, black walnut trees (Juglans nigra) and butternut (Juglans cinerea) produce a compound known as Juglone. It prevents plants from germinating and causes plants to look wilted.

    Allelopathic plants release these chemicals through their roots or as they decompose. These chemicals can affect a plant’s ability to germinate, develop roots, or take in nutrients. Some plants are sensitive to these chemicals, while others might not be affected at all.

    Here are some more allelopathic trees and shrubs to be on the lookout for:

    • Bearberry
    • Elderberry
    • English laurel
    • Forsythia
    • Junipers
    • Rhododendron
    • Sugar maple
    • Sumac

    It should be noted that most large trees are allelopathic in some sense, as they take in so much water to stop other plants from competing.

    2 Juniper 'Mint Julip' Spiral Topiaries in containers ready to be planted
    Research if any of the larger trees or shrubs in your yard can affect other nearby plants.

    So, You’ve Got Soil Issues

    Beyond large trees, it’s also important to look at the soil. In my previous house, there was so much debris in the soil that was left behind by builders who knows how long ago. It took me years to get rid of it all and rebuild the soil into something rich and grow-worthy.

    You also will want to know what type of soil you have. Is it overly clay and compact? Is it gritty and dries out quickly? Is it soggy nearly all the time? Good soil needs to be able to both retain water while still having good air circulation for the roots.

    I highly recommend you do a soil test to determine your soil’s pH. Adding organic amendments is the best way to turn bad soil into good soil, but it takes a lot of work and patience.

    Toxic Substances

    It could also be likely that someone has dumped something toxic into the area, such as herbicides. These are very toxic substances that will kill anything, not just weeds. It can have long-lasting residual effects long after the substance is used.

    Pollution

    If you live on a busy street, pollution could also be a very real issue. Pollution directly harms plants, entering through the stomata of the leaves and injuring them. It also settles in the soil, making it quite acidic and making it difficult for plants to take in nutrients.

    Animals

    There could be animals living underground that are also an issue, such as moles or voles. These animals might eat the vegetation or roots or damage them simply by habiting the area.

    flowery garden gloves with a handful of compost
    Compost is garden gold and the best way to fix poor soil.

    What to Do if Nothing Grows in Your Garden

    Let’s get down to what you can actually do about the problem! If you want to fix it immediately, your best bet is to use raised beds.

    By bringing the soil up or working in containers, you’ll create your own little ecosystem, which can help solve some of the other issues. Be mindful that if the issue is tree roots, they can grow up into them. Trees will always strive to find nutritious soil and well-watered areas!

    If the issue is soil, it will take a lot of time and patience to turn it into something grow-worthy. You’ll need to aerate the soil, continually add layers of organic matter to build it up, and bring in cover crops to help fix it. Weeds are great for turning bad soil into good soil!

    Acceptance

    What many people don’t want to hear is that maybe you need to take a different approach to your garden. If you want a very landscaped garden, you might have to accept the fact that garden beds with perennials, vegetables, or fruits may not be in the plan.

    Instead, treat the area like it’s a concrete slab where nothing grows. Opt for a rock garden with hints of potted flowers or a lovely patio.

    You can add some nice flagstone, put some moss in between, perhaps put in a fountain, and add some furniture to create a welcome space.

    You can accept that you have this big, beautiful tree and get to work with it rather than fight with it. An outdoor space you can enjoy is still very much possible!

    front yard garden with bench and a fountain surrounded by river rocks
    This was my old front yard, which was very shady and grew little. So I embraced it with a fountain and sitting space!

    More Tips for Front Yard Gardening

    Pin image for "Help! Nothing grows in my front lawn." Troubleshooting and solutions.

    Stephanie Rose

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  • Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

    Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

    The Best Soil for Raised Bed Gardens

    If you’re wondering what the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is, that’s an easy answer – “Mel’s Mix”. I didn’t come up with this mix; we can thank Mel Bartholomew, the author of Square Foot Gardening, for simplifying the best soil to use for raised bed vegetable gardening.

    After reading Square Foot Gardening for the first time over 12 years ago, I decided to start my own garden. I followed the advice for how to make Mel’s Mix, which he calls “the most important, productive, essential, necessary, critical” ingredient for square-foot gardening success, and it worked!


    Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix

    Best soil for raised bed gardensBest soil for raised bed gardens

    What is in Mel’s Mix?


    Regular garden soil is too dense for raised bed gardens. Mel’s Mix for square-foot gardening mixes compost, coco coir, and vermiculite, which keeps the soil light and airy.

    Mel Bartholomew’s mix for the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is simple:

    • 1 part compost – Make your own, or If you live in Arizona, the compost from Arizona Worm Farm is great. If you use bagged, a mix of several different types is best.
    • 1 part  coco coir
    • 1 part vermiculite or perlite
    • 3-5% worm castings (1/3 gallon per cubic foot)
    • 1/2 cup basalt dust per cubic foot
    Best soil for raised bed gardensBest soil for raised bed gardens

    Measure each type by volume (cubic feet), not weight.

    You can also use up to 50 percent compost to 25 percent each of vermiculite and coco coir.


    Great news for Phoenix-area residents

    Growing in the Garden Raised Bed MixGrowing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix

    Fall 2020  Arizona Worm Farm (located in Phoenix, Arizona) began selling “Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix” that is premixed and ready to go! It is available by the bag or by the yard and also available for delivery. It contains the correct mixture of compost, coco coir, vermiculite, worm castings, and basalt dust.


    What are the advantages of using this mix for raised bed vegetable gardening?

    The benefits of using this soil mix for raised bed vegetable gardening include:

    • It simplifies drainage – the vermiculite and coco coir absorb moisture; when they are saturated, excess moisture drains away. This means you can’t overwater.
    • Seeds germinate easily in the mix.
    • No weeds! It really is true. In the years I’ve been gardening, I rarely see a weed inside the raised beds. The soil remains light and airy; it does not get crusted or compacted. Plants’ roots need oxygen and water, and roots love this mixture.

    Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable GardeningBest Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening


    Adding a balanced organic fertilizer before you plant to your soil mixture for raised beds helps give plants the food they need to grow and thrive in your garden. You are feeding the soil that feeds your plants.

    Gardener's Gift Guide: Garden Favorites​Gardener's Gift Guide: Garden Favorites​

    Follow package directions for the amount to add.


    Top 5 Raised Bed Gardening MistakesTop 5 Raised Bed Gardening Mistakes

    Thinking about adding a raised bed? I love my metal garden bed (it comes with watering grids!) from Garden in Minutes.


    Deep Root Cedar Raised Beds from Gardener’s Supply Company.Deep Root Cedar Raised Beds from Gardener’s Supply Company.

    What’s the best way to combine the ingredients in the raised bed mix?

    One way to mix up the ingredients for the best soil for raised bed gardening is to combine the ingredients in batches on a tarp. Once they are combined, contents can be dumped into the raised bed. Once you fill your bed, water the soil very well.

    Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable GardeningBest Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening

    You can also layer the ingredients (lasagna style) in the raised bed, mixing well after each addition.Make up a little extra raised bed mix to use in pots and containers

    This raised bed mixture also is a perfect potting soil, so I like to mix up extra of this soil mixture and store it in a large-lidded garbage can. It’s very convenient to have the mix on hand for filling pots and for other areas in the garden.


    Add more compost to raised beds each time you plant

    CompostCompost
    Compost

    At the end of the season, as the soil level goes down from the decomposition of the compost, add additional compost to bring the soil level back up to the top of the bed. It isn’t necessary to add additional coco coir and vermiculite to your beds each season, as the coconut coir and vermiculite do not break down as quickly. The continued practice of adding compost and feeding your soil each season improves the soil and the harvests.


    Test your soil once a year

    About once a year after adding soil to your raised beds, it’s important to have your soil tested. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s simple to use. 


    If this article about the best soil for raised beds was helpful, please share it:


    Angela Judd

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  • How to Make Enough Compost for My Garden: Urban Composting Fix

    How to Make Enough Compost for My Garden: Urban Composting Fix

    Adding compost to your soil is one of the best things you can do for your garden. So, no wonder you want to produce as much of it as possible! When it comes to urban composting, you want to think beyond the traditional, small compost bin so you can get as much of the garden gold as possible.

    I gush about composting the same way someone gushes about their partner. Compost is pure garden gold. It’s one of the easiest, most affordable ways to improve your garden’s soil. All while preventing more waste from ending up in the landfill.

    In my garden, I don’t use any fertilizer. Most of my garden beds have all the necessary nutrients already in the soil, with compost improving the organic matter, microbes, and soil structure. When using compost, your soil will be able to hold more moisture, be more aerated, and have more nutritional value for your plants.

    Compost is pretty cool hey?

    While many think composting may be as easy as tossing all your kitchen waste in a pile, it’s not that simple. It’s also not hard to do when done right.

    If, like me, you need lots of compost to kickstart a new gardening space, here’s how you can maximize your small space composting system.

    compact composting at homecompact composting at home
    Amend soil with compost annually or more often when you have compost readily available.

    How to Make Compost

    To make compost, you need four key ingredients: nitrogen, carbon, air, and moisture.

    Nitrogen is full of “greens” like kitchen scraps, grass clippings, and trimmings from your gardens. You need one part of nitrogen.

    Next, you need two to three parts of “browns” as the carbon source. These are typically dry and bulk, like paper, straw, or other shredded woody material.

    Compost needs to be turned regularly to encourage air (oxygen) to help speed up composition, as well as moisture.

    You can learn more about how to master making compost in this post. This method is what you traditionally use in a compost bin or pile for your backyard.

    But unless you have lots of space, it’s hard to make enough compost to feed a new garden with poor soil. And even if you do have lots of space, that probably means you need even more compost than the average gardener!

    small space compostingsmall space composting
    Spread compost in a thick layer over the soil when the garden is unproductive. It does not need to be turned into the top layer of the soil.

    How I’m Managing My Urban Composting System

    I’m in my first spring in my new home. The yard is quite neglected, full of poor drainage and patchy grass.

    In the back is a large raised bed left behind by the previous owners. About 10 ft by 7 ft, it goes right up against the neighbour’s fence. Because of this design, getting to the back corner without climbing into the bed is impossible.

    I built pathways in it last summer, but it is wasted space. So, I’m ripping the whole thing out this upcoming summer to create a more functional gardening bed.

    Right now, I’m dumping every ounce of greens and browns I have in the raised bed in hopes that I’ll make tons of compost. I have plans for a food forest, and I’ll need all the compost I can get to feed my neglected soil.

    compost pile with coffee grounds on topcompost pile with coffee grounds on top
    This compost pile is topped with coffee grounds, a great kitchen scrap addition.

    How Can I Make Enough Compost for My Whole Garden?

    The secret to making lots of compost is to use as many different methods as possible rather than relying on one traditional, small compost bin. Rather than removing any organic matter from your garden or throwing out kitchen scraps, find ways to use it in your garden.

    Here are some of the methods I’ll use to utilize compact composting.

    Mulching

    Mulches are incredibly popular with permaculturalists and gardeners because of the regenerative properties they provide for the soil. The protective layer of organic material keeps the soil temperatures more consistent, deters surface evaporation, and decomposes slowly to add nutrients.

    Here’s what you can use in your garden as mulch deriving from nature:

    • Leaf mold
    • Wood chips (nothing dyed)
    • Pine straw/conifer needles
    • Straw Cardboard (broken into smaller 6–12-inch pieces)
    • Grass clippings
    • Seaweed

    As a form of urban composting, add a layer of mulch over any of your garden beds in the fall. It will insulate the soil and eventually break down into the soil.

    sheet mulchingsheet mulching
    Sheet mulching is the process of building a new garden bed or soil in layers or sheets using various carbon and nitrogen source materials.

    Chop and Drop

    Chop and drop is a form of mulching where you cut back the plant material in your garden and leave it on top of the soil surface to decompose in place.

    This will feed the roots of their own kind, mimicking how they fertilize the soil in nature. Avoid plants that have gone to seed and only use disease- and pest-free materials.

    This is an excellent form of compact composting that you can do during the growing season as you work in the garden.

    chop and drop mulchingchop and drop mulching
    Wild plants and volunteers make great chop-and-drop mulch. Cut them before they go to seed.

    Green Manure

    Also known as cover crops, green manures are plants that are grown with the sole purpose of going back into the soil. The plants typically are nitrogen-fixing crops.

    The plants are pulled or cut down and then chopped into smaller pieces. The top layer turns into mulch on the soil surface (it’s no longer suggested to till it into the soil). Below ground, the remaining roots are left to decompose. As the top and bottom decompose, they provide nutrients and soil-conditioning effects.

    To use green manures as a form of urban composting, they work best in larger gardening beds, or if you want to feed a new lawn.

    lupinslupins
    Legumes such as lupines (Lupinis spp.) offer many benefits, such as nitrogen-fixing, erosion control, and attracting pollinators.

    Spot Compost

    With only one small compost bin, it can fill up quickly. Rather than continuously piling in more, you want to let the green waste sit and fully decompose before adding in more scraps.

    Spot composting is an easy way to get into composting. To do so, you can dig a hole directly in your gardening bed, add in your green scraps, and then cover it up.

    small space compostingsmall space composting
    Kitchen scraps can include raw or cooked food.

    Worm Bins

    I have pet worms, and so could you! Worm bins are one of my favourite urban composting methods, and they are great for those with minimal space. Vermicomposting is where you use worms to decompose your kitchen scraps alongside carbon materials like straw and paper.

    Here’s how you can make your own worm bin and upkeep it to keep your worms happy and eating.

    vermicomposting is a great urban composting methodvermicomposting is a great urban composting method
     Worm castings (worm poop) look much finer than soil and is very good at holding moisture.

    Do you have more compost questions? Leave them in the comments below, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.

    More Tips for Improving Soil

    Pin image for how to make enough compost for your garden when living in a small space.Pin image for how to make enough compost for your garden when living in a small space.

    Stephanie Rose

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  • Contamination forces closure of Detroit waterfront park

    Contamination forces closure of Detroit waterfront park

    click to enlarge

    Rendering via city of Detroit

    A.B. Ford Park in the Jefferson Chalmers neighborhood is undergoing renovations.

    The city of Detroit closed a waterfront park on the east side that was undergoing renovations after finding contamination in the soil.

    Beginning in March, the city will remove more than 250 trees, some of which are more than a 100 years old and are used by bald eagles, from A.B. Ford Park in the Jefferson Chalmers.

    The park, which was closed and blocked off Wednesday, is undergoing $9 million in renovations that will feature walkways, a playground, basketball court, fitness and picnic areas, tennis and pickleball courts, a fishing node, beach, and waterfront plaza.

    Even without the contamination, the park was scheduled to soon close for renovations.

    The trees are being removed because officials have to add two feet of fresh soil to the 32-acre park to protect residents from the contamination. The trees, most of which city officials said are in poor condition, won’t survive the extra soil.

    The city plans to plant hundreds of new native and flowering trees in their place, according to a city document. The new trees include quaking Aspens, river birch, Princeton elm, Shumard oak, purple beech, sugar maple, bur oak, black gum, eastern redbud, and dogwood.

    The plastic and metal contamination was found while officials were conducting environmental testing that was required to demolish the old and abandoned Lenox Center on the site.

    To cover the park with two feet of new soil, an average of 20 to 30 heavy trucks will dump the material at the site every weekday from March to September, according to the city’s plans.

    As part of the renovations, the city recently built the $7.2 million A.B. Ford Park Community Center, which was funded by Detroit and a donation from the Penske Corp. to the city’s Strategic Neighborhood Fund. The solar-powered building features classrooms, a library area, a community gathering room, and space for indoor sports and parties.

    City officials hope to reopen the park in the fall.

    City spokesman John Roach tells Metro Times there’s no truth to rumors that an Environmental Protection Agency restoration project will be canceled.

    The source of the contamination wasn’t immediately clear. Roach says the soil is non-native and about a century old.

    The city plans to soon hold meetings to update residents on the contamination and plans to remediate it.

    Subscribe to Metro Times newsletters.

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    Steve Neavling

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  • Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil



    I’m embarrassed to admit that I’d been gardening for 12 years before I had my soil tested. In previous years, I considered testing my soil, but when I looked into how to test your soil, it seemed complicated and expensive. 

    The more I gardened, however, I wanted to know (not guess!) what was going on in my soil. I first saw the MySoil Test Kits on Instagram and thought they looked simple and inexpensive enough to try soil testing.

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your SoilSoil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    I sent my first test kit to MySoil in 2020, and I’ve used it to test my soil ever since. The soil testing process is simple and quick. I get my results back within a few days with recommendations about what my soil needs. 

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your SoilSoil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    Now, I test my soil at the beginning of our growing seasons (early spring and fall) and give my soil what it actually needs rather than what I think it needs. 


    When to Test Your Soil

    We ask a lot of our garden soil. Plants need to sprout, grow, and produce a harvest within a few weeks or months. “A healthy garden starts with healthy soil.” Testing your soil takes the guesswork out of what your soil needs.

    Plants may give you signs that nutrient levels are not ideal, including:

    • Purple leaves are likely due to a phosphorus deficiency.
    • Yellow leaves with green veining may mean a lack of iron.
    • Green leaves with yellow centers can mean many things, including a lack of nitrogen.

    Good times to test your soil include:

    • At the beginning of each season.
    • Mid-season to check on nutrient levels before fertilizing.
    • If your garden is not performing well.

    A soil test will confirm your suspicions and/or give you a clearer picture of what is happening with your soil. Armed with this information, you can successfully treat the “root of the problem,” not just the symptoms.


    How to Test Your Soil in 5 Simple Steps


    1. Decide how many kits you need and order them

    Soil Testing: When & How to Test Your SoilSoil Testing: When & How to Test Your Soil

    If the same soils are used across your garden with similar management, then you may just need one kit.

    If you have different soils (in-ground vs. raised beds, fruit trees, etc.) or different ages of soils (older vs. newer areas), you may need to split each area into its own testing zone. 

    For example, my garden has three sections of raised beds that were added at three different times and a large in-ground area. As such, I use four kits for my garden.

    You can order kits through the MySoil website or on Amazon.

    my garden has 3 different sections of raised beds that were added at 3 different times and a large in-ground area. I use 4 kits for my garden.my garden has 3 different sections of raised beds that were added at 3 different times and a large in-ground area. I use 4 kits for my garden.

    2. Collect and mail the soil sample(s)

    Complete the process of collecting samples separately for each testing area. If you are testing more than one area, label the registration form so you know which test goes with which area. 

    Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch. Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.
    • Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box, then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.
    Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch. Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box and then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.
    • Fill the included scoop (level) with the thoroughly-mixed sample.
    • Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule.
    Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule. Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule.
    • Tighten the lid and put the filled jar in the prepaid mailing envelope.
    • Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office
    Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office. Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office. 

    3. Register your kit(s) and create account

    Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test.

    Check your email for a notification that your test is ready (mine went to spam, so check spam if you don’t see it within a few days). Sign in to your customer portal and view your report(s) in your dashboard.

    Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test. Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test.

    4. Review the test results

    Each report includes a bar graph with a quick view of your results.

    The report shows if any of the nutrients in your soil are either within, below, or above the optimal range. There are results for the soil nutrient availability, pH, and the macro and micronutrients.The report shows if any of the nutrients in your soil are either within, below, or above the optimal range. There are results for the soil nutrient availability, pH, and the macro and micronutrients.

    The report shows whether any of the nutrients in your soil are within, below, or above the optimal range. It also includes results for soil nutrient availability, pH, and macro- and micronutrients.

    The next time you test your soil, you can compare the results to the previous test to see how your soil is improving/changing over time. 


    5. Follow the fertilizer, pH, and micronutrient recommendations

    In addition to your results, the report will show the recommended actions to improve your soil’s nutrient level or pH level. You can see the products they recommend along with application rates.

    Plants need several nutrients to grow well​. These nutrients are normally divided into two groups: macronutrients and micronutrients

    The macronutrients needed by plants are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. 

    Some common micronutrients needed by plants are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Micronutrients are just as important as macronutrients, just needed in smaller amounts. 

    With your report, you can make informed decisions about which amendments to add and how much to use. It’s best to work the recommended products into the soil before planting. 


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    Angela Judd

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  • Standard Potting Mix

    Standard Potting Mix

    Standard Potting Mix

    1.5 Bales of Lakeland
    Coarse Peat
    2 Bags of Supreme Perlite
    1 Bag of Turface
    Total:
    9.75
    Bushels
    6.00 Bushels
    1.50 Bushels

    17.0 Bushels

    Add by weight:

    Dolomite
    GS AG;
    Micromax
    Aquagro `G’
    Osmocote 18-6-12
      950
    gms (56 gm per bushel)
    515 gms (30 gm per bushel)
    515 gms (30 gm per bushel)
    2390 gms(140 gm per bushel)High
    Rate
       1595
    gms (94 gm per bushel) Low

    Rate:
    High rate-Late spring and summer potting of general nursery stock, until August  15.
    Low rate-Potting of Ericaceous plants or general nursery stock after August 15.

     

    For Seedlings and Small Container Stock (21/4″, 3″, 4″) Add 3 bushels of screened, pasteurized soil to a standard potting mix to make it 15% soil and use low rate of osmocote 18-6-12.

     

    Articles
    Grow Delphiniums from Seed
    Container Gardening

    Recipes
    Garden Loam Potting Soil
    John Innes Potting Compost
    Orchid Potting Mix
    Cacti Potting Mix
    Seed Starting Potting mix
    Alpines Potting Mix
    Shade Potting Mix
    Cutting Potting mix
    A. Knutson Potting mixes
    CORNELL MIXES
    Cornell Peat-lite Mix
    Cornell Foliage Plant Mix
    Cornell Epiphytic Mix
    Standard Potting Mix


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

    Frederick Leeth

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  • How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost. 

    However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings? 

    Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:

    1. I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.      
    2. Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.

    With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.  


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    1. Choose a location to compost

    Here are a few necessities for the location:

    • Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
    • Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
    • Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in. 
    • Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.

    2. Obtain compost bins

    The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.  

    Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    3. Gather the correct tools for composting

    The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).


    4. Learn what and what not to compost​

    Do Compost:  Don’t Compost: Compost with Care: 
    Leaves Meat / bones Bermuda grass clippings 
    Grass clippings Dairy Citrus peels (take a long time to break down)
    Coffee grounds Animal waste Ashes (adds alkalinity)
    Vegetable scraps Diseased plants  
    Egg shells Oil  
    Plant material Weeds with seeds    
    Fruit and peels    

    Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot ClimatesLawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

    5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials

    What can I compost?What can I compost?
    What can I compost? What can I compost?
    Green Materials  Brown Materials 
    Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful Carbon-rich, dry 
    Grass clippings Dry brown leaves
    Coffee and tea grounds Egg shells
    Green garden trimmings Hay and straw
    Fruit scraps, peels Shredded paper
    Vegetable scraps, peels Dryer lint

    How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a GardenHow to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden

    How to Become a
Self-Sufficient GardenerHow to Become a
Self-Sufficient Gardener

    6. Fill the bins

    Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies. 

    Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    7. Observe the compost​

    As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step. 

    See troubleshooting tips (below) if you aren’t sure what is happening inside the bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    8. Rotate the compost through your bins​

    Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up

    Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work. 

    Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete. 

    This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into


    9. Use the compost​

    Spring Gardening in ArizonaSpring Gardening in Arizona

    Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.

    If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.


    10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost​

    The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.

    Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Troubleshooting Tips

    Symptom  Problem Solution
    Many flies  Green items or food exposed to air  Cover pile with brown materials.
    Wet compost – not heating up Add more brown material  Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers. 
    Dry compost – not heating up Materials may be too large, needs more green Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
    Bad odor like rotten eggs Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Bad odor like ammonia Not enough brown materials Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Compost heats up and then cools down Compost needs turned Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go. 
    Warm only in the middle Compost pile too small Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
    Matted layers of leaves or grass Material won’t break down, will become slimy Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success


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    Angela Judd

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  • Mulching Your Garden: What to Use and How to Use it

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use and How to Use it

    Mulch is your secret weapon in the garden. I talk about the need to mulch your garden in nearly every blog post; mulching is that important. This post covers the benefits of mulch, what to use for mulch in different areas of your garden, and the best tips for how to use mulch in your garden. 

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use and How to Use it

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    Benefits of Mulching your Garden

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    1. Mulching your garden helps regulate soil temperature

    • Hot soil is hard on plants. Mulch keeps the sun off the soil, so the soil stays cooler. Thick mulch helps insulate it even more. 
    • Higher soil temperatures slow plant growth, and mulch moderates that temperature. 
    • Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation
    • During cooler temps, mulch also helps insulate the soil. 
    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    5 Reasons to Replace Grass With Water-Saving Groundcovers5 Reasons to Replace Grass With Water-Saving Groundcovers

    2. Mulching your garden helps slow evaporation

    A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time! 

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    3. Mulching adds organic matter to your garden

    When you add natural mulch in the form of bark, straw, or compost, they are incorporated into the soil and add nutrients and organic matter.  

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    4. Mulching your garden helps prevent and control weeds

    Mulching blocks the sunlight needed for weeds to germinate and often smothers existing weeds.

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    ALL OF THIS TOGETHER MEANS MORE GOOD THINGS GOING ON IN THE SOIL. Increased moisture, fewer temperature fluctuations, and more organic matter lead to more worm activity and more beneficial microorganisms in the soil. That means healthier soil and plants. 


    Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot ClimatesLawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

    Different Types of Mulch:


    Compost

    Use homemade, bagged, or bulk compost. Compost is high in nutrients and has a finer texture than other mulching options

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    A note about fresh animal manure; it must be aged before using it as mulch or compost in the garden. 

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    Where to get it: I make my own and I also love the compost from Arizona Worm Farm


    Composted mulch

    Larger texture than regular compost. It is typically made from landscape waste and isn’t completely broken down yet.

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    Where to get it: Arizona Worm Farm has this available. They call it mulch or city mulch. I also like the bagged composted mulch from A&P Nursery.

    Mulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use itMulching Your Garden: What to Use & How to Use it

    Pine needles

    Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles. 

    Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles. Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles. 

    Pine needles may lower the pH of soil when mixed in with the soil. That may not be bad here in the low desert where our soil tends to be more alkaline. Pine needles become more pH neutral as they break down. 


    Straw (not hay)

    (Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw. 

    (Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw. (Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw. 

    Where to get it: Shopper’s Supply and other farm supply stores.


    Leaves / Leaf mold / Shredded leaves

    Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily. Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.

    Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.


    Bark / Wood chips

    The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds. 

    The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds. The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds. 

    Where to get it: Chipdrop; check with local arborist; Arizona Worm Farm.


    Chopped up cover crops / Grass clippings

    These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Grow cover crops in beds when they would otherwise be empty. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.

    Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead Take the summer off!Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead Take the summer off!
    These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Chop up cover crops and let them dry in the sun for a day or two before adding to beds. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Chop up cover crops and let them dry in the sun for a day or two before adding to beds. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.

    How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a GardenHow to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden

    Cardboard / Newspaper

    Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place. 

    Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place. Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place. 

    Where to get it: Finally, something to do with all of those Amazon boxes


    Which mulch to use in your garden

    Which mulch to use in your gardenWhich mulch to use in your garden

    Raised and in-ground garden beds:

    Smaller-grade organic materials such as compost, composted mulch, shredded leaves, straw, and smaller wood chips are excellent mulch in raised garden beds.

    Which mulch to use in your gardenWhich mulch to use in your garden

    Pathways:

    Larger materials last longer in pathways and around raised beds. 

    Which mulch to use in your gardenWhich mulch to use in your garden

    Treewells:

    All materials are suitable for around trees, but take care to keep mulch away from the base of the tree. 

    Which mulch to use in your gardenWhich mulch to use in your garden


    Tips for how to use mulch in your garden

    Which mulch to use in your gardenWhich mulch to use in your garden
    • Wait until plants have grown to several inches tall before applying mulch. 
    • Keep mulch about an inch away from the stems of plants. 
    • Add a little extra organic fertilizer below the mulch when using leaves or bark as they can take nitrogen from the soil as they break down. 
    • If you use Garden Grids for watering like I do, put them on top of the mulch. You may have to water a little longer to penetrate the mulch layer. 
    • Plan on applying mulch twice a year in the spring after planting (before the heat of summer), and again after fall planting.
    • Apply a 2-3 inch layer of most mulches. Less than 2 inches doesn’t give you all the benefits, but a larger layer can be difficult for water to penetrate.
    Which mulch to use in your gardenWhich mulch to use in your garden

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    Michael

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  • COP27’s Soil Reckoning: How Agriculture Is Returning To Its Roots

    COP27’s Soil Reckoning: How Agriculture Is Returning To Its Roots

    Lee Jones is a farmer in Huron, Ohio. He’s also a devotee of John Steinbeck, whose depression-era masterpiece “Grapes of Wrath” sang to him of soils robbed of value and people robbed of homes and livelihoods.

    Today, Jones and his 400-acre “Chef’s Garden” farm and state of the art culinary school on the banks of Lake Erie are the toast of Michelin star chefs. But around 40 years ago, when he was just shy of age 20, the Jones family experienced how climate and the economy can destroy a business. In 1983, hundreds of acres of Jones Farm fresh market vegetables were crushed in an unprecedented rain of hail. The avalanche of debt that followed at 22 percent interest rates smothered the business almost to death. The bank took their home and land and they moved into a 150-year-old house with a leaky ceiling and curtains for doors. They rebuilt their growing acreage in small rented parcels, selling goods from the back of farm trucks and station wagons. Farm life is tough, but this was next-level.

    It was at that point that Lee Jones understood firsthand how the ravages of climate, bad agricultural practices, unrelenting monoculture – in this case, cotton crops – and systemic financial depression made life hell on the 1930’s American prairies.


    “The rain crust broke and the dust lifted up out of the fields and drove gray plumes into the air like sluggish smoke…The finest dust did not settle back to earth now, but disappeared into the blackening sky.” John Steinbeck, 1939, Grapes of Wrath.


    The Dust Bowl with its searing droughts, blinding black storms of not rain but mocking dry dusty soil is almost a hundred years in the rear-view mirror. Ultimately, the story of American agriculture was re-set through aggressive New Deal conservation and agriculture programs of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who famously told American governors in 1937, “the nation that destroys its soil destroys itself.” Also helpful, a changing climate cycle.

    What gives us hope about nature is that there are cycles. And what makes us fearful about nature is that there are cycles. And while the science, machinery, and now technology of farming have leapt into the 21st century, so have the brutal environmental realities. These are the challenges of planet earth in 2022. The vise of rapacious farming practices, climate change, a deadly pandemic, inflation, and war has hundreds of millions of people on the planet in a chokehold.

    That is why agriculture is in hot focus at this juncture in history and the degraded condition of soils globally is sharing the stage as political leaders, environment ministers, advocates, and climate-focused organizations of all kinds convene in Egypt for the COP27 summit.

    The United Nations World Food Program (WFP) and the UN Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) reports the world faces its greatest crisis in modern history, with as many as 50 million people on the verge of famine.

    Global organizations agree that feeding the hungry is the shared moral responsibility of affluent nations. At the same time these nations themselves are facing a reckoning of climate extremes and radically depleted soil quality, says Ronald Vargas, Secretary of the FAO’s Global Soils Partnership.

    When governments and activists talk about environmental quality, Vargas observes, they refer to air quality and water quality. But rarely will they include soil quality or soil health. Yet, he says, “the interface between air and water is soils. With the Dust Bowl, for example, the soil rose to the atmosphere. If your soil is polluted with heavy metals, or the remnants of pesticides, or other materials, these contaminants will also be found in the air. And water quality depends on the soils.”

    Today, aggravating an already bad situation is the onslaught of Covid19 pandemic-era plastics for a multitude of health equipment. At the same time, the food packaging that has kept restaurants alive has kept microplastics percolating in the atmosphere. “These contaminants are everywhere,” says Vargas. “Where are the masks and packaging ending up? In the soils. And in many countries, waste management is not adequate. Those particles of microplastic go into the soil, from there they go to the air, and then they go to the water. “


    Sustainable farming practices that give to, rather than take from, the soil are critically in demand, says Vargas. And the question, will there be enough calories to consume? is very different from the question: will there be enough healthy food to eat?

    What is in the soil is the difference between boom and bust for Lee Jones, a purveyor

    of top quality vegetables to best-of-the-best restaurants, and now to consumers online. Emerging from the near ruin of their farm business almost four decades ago, the Jones family learned there was an opportunity to do better by nature and, as a result, better by consumers. Since then, Jones has engaged a staff of farmworkers, packagers, managers, scientists and a resident chef to curate his crops. He’s cultivated a network of demanding star chefs who have inspired him to develop unique,

    regeneratively grown produce: golden zucchini blossoms, miniature squash, delicate carrots of multiple colors, tomatoes and cucumbers of myriad colors, sizes and flavors, cauliflowers, lettuces and root vegetables in a rainbow of colors, and much more.

    “It’s the farmer’s goal to leave the land in better condition for future generations,” says Jones. “We’ve added to that. We believe that a farm needs to have healthy soil, grow healthy food, feed healthy people, in a healthy environment. My dad had a saying – ‘We’re just trying to get as good at what we’re doing as the growers were a hundred years ago.’”

    The Chef’s Garden fields are fertilized through strips of clover and other small growth, established between rows of plants, drawing nutrients from the sun and pulling them into the soil for the larger harvest. Composted plants and grasses protect the base of plants along each row. And the rhythm of farming is geared to restoring the soils, as opposed to the ravages of big-business mono-culture.

    On his 400-acre farm, Jones keeps 200 acres planted with undemanding cover crops to harvest the sun’s energy. The other half is for crops to take to market. The two segments are rotated every year. Jones won’t say his produce is organic, strictly, because – even though chemical fertilizers and pesticides are avoided at most costs – if a chemical product can save a crop, it will be used.

    In his signature daily outfit of blue overalls, white oxford shirt, and red bow tie, Lee Jones is expressing a solidarity with farmers who struggle and endure, and saluting those who have gone before, like the working people Steinbeck depicted in “Grapes of Wrath.”

    Jones knows he is just one farmer working a few hundred acres on a planet where only 38 percent of the land can be farmed. For him, it is “one step” in the shared human agricultural “journey of a thousand miles,” but well worth the passion.

    WfpA global food crisis | World Food Programme

    Louise Schiavone, Contributor

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