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Tag: Sinéad O

  • Euphoria Becomes Drenched in Death

    Euphoria Becomes Drenched in Death

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    The date is January 30, 2022. Not so long ago in some ways, and a lifetime ago in others. For one thing, two particular famous people were still alive: Sinéad O’Connor and Angus Cloud. And, for a brief pop cultural instant in time, the two would be linked in an episode of Euphoria. O’Connor’s appearance, of course, is on the soundtrack. But more than that, she’s made a central part of the scene halfway through the episode, entitled “You Who Cannot See, Think Of Those Who Can,” when Cal (Eric Dane) specifically puts “Drink Before the War” on the jukebox. The jukebox at the same unnamed bar with nothing but a sign that reads, “Beer Pool Dancing” in red neon above it. Where he was taken to by his best friend, Derek…back when the inseparable duo was still in high school in the late 80s. Or rather, on the precipice of embarking on their college experience after graduating. 

    It is perhaps because both know that this is the end of an era, of the days spent seeing one another all the time and stealing glances of their Greek god-esque wrestling bodies that they decide to let their masks drop. Even if only for one night. Because it’s the morning after they share a kiss to the tune of INXS’ “Never Tear Us Apart” that Cal’s girlfriend, Marsha, shares the news that she’s pregnant. And, evidently, it’s just assumed they’ll keep it. Feeling the walls close in around him after that call, Cal knows the life he had caught a glimpse of last night is over before it could even begin. 

    We never find out what happened to Derek after that, suffice it to say that the two naturally drifted apart. Yet Cal hasn’t forgotten him. Indeed, it seems more than likely that he’s thought about Derek in some way or another almost every day of his miserable life without him. This is where the plot regarding Cal’s son, Nate (Jacob Elordi), and his secret affair with Cassie (Sydney Sweeney) comes back into focus. In this scenario, Cassie mimics the tortured, repressed feelings that Cal has. Except, in her case, it’s not because of risking societal ostracism, so much as a beatdown from Maddy (Alexa Demie), her best friend who happens to be the recent ex of Nate. And someone who would not suffer fools when it comes to being cuckqueaned this way. 

    The inner torment of both Cal and Cassie ends up colliding when Cal goes back to that same spot where he danced with Derek over twenty years later. And, the moment he enters, Cal is transported anew to that magical evening. Even if the song he chooses to soundtrack his night is not INXS, but Sinéad. Marveling at the presence of her first album, The Lion and the Cobra, being a sonic option, it is “Drink Before the War” that calls out to him. Begs to be selected. And it’s only too appropriate. For, as Cal was transformed into a villain after that night he lost his chance at honest love forever, he became an oppressor despite being someone who belongs to an oppressed community (see also: Lizzo). And this is what his own son has become as well. Now focusing his oppressing tendencies on Cassie as he toys with her emotions, at first telling her he loves her and then going back to Maddy to try to start things up again between them. Whether or not Nate’s own toxic relationships with women might be a result of him also being a repressed gay like his father (as Lexi [Maude Apatow] alludes to in her infamous play, Our Life), is anyone’s guess. But the, um, bottom line is, he’s picked the worst time to send Cassie into a tailspin by showing up to Maddy’s birthday party. 

    Plagued with jealousy and rage, but unable to express it because she knows she’s in the wrong for betraying Maddy, Cassie instead takes to the drink for comfort. This, too, being part of why “Drink Before the War” is such a brilliant song choice to crosscut between the scene of her sloppily dancing and singing to it (even if we’re a bit skeptical that her character would know the song) while Cal has his own mini breakdown at the bar. For Cassie is about to go to war…for Nate. And it’s not just the internal war with herself she’ll have to endure, but the inevitable one with Maddy. Meanwhile, Cal, too, prepares to face his demons in war back at that bar. Where the only thing that’s changed is the clientele. Still gay, but slightly less seedy. 

    When one of the men approaches Cal to dance with him, he doesn’t rebuff the offer, taking him in his arms and eventually imagining it’s Derek who he’s dancing with again, telling the hallucination, “I thought I’d lost you.” But, of course, Derek is still “lost” to Cal…as much as his youth is. 

    To that end, in the episode prior to this one, Rue (Zendaya) phrases such a tragedy succinctly when she says, “When you’re younger, everything just feels so permanent. But as you get older, everyone drifts away.” Seeing the dichotomy between how Cal and Cassie both react to the “tearing me apart” love situations in their life, that makes Rue’s statement stand out all the more. For, yes, Cassie is so melodramatically upset precisely because she thinks all these unpleasant feelings with regard to losing both Nate and Maddy are going to be forever. While Cal is, in contrast, so drunkenly (yet detachedly) upset because he sees how far it’s all drifted from him. Everything he might have been. Everyone he might have stayed in touch with. 

    As for Fez (Cloud), he doesn’t materialize until around forty-three minutes into the episode, with Faye (Chloe Cherry) at his side as usual while the two watch Suspiria. And yeah, Ashtray (Javon Walton) is there too. Their viewing is interrupted by a sharp knock at the door, which Fez goes to answer with his usual blasé manner to find Custer (Tyler Chase). He’s there to warn Fez of “Mouse’s baby mama” asking questions about his death. One inflicted by Ashtray via a hammer. Ashtray will also end up killing Custer, but that’s a later story. In this sense, too, O’Connor’s “Drink Before the War” applies as a fitting presagement for what’s to come for Fez and Ashtray by the season finale. Though no one knew at the time that Cloud was going to write his own finale far too soon, and long before Fez’s. Whose own death will likely be written into the next season (however, if Cloud had lived, we could have bought into Fez’s survival of a mere gunshot-to-the-stomach wound). Which of course means we’ll never know what might have been between him and Lexi. 

    Lexi, who is not like her sister or any of the other characters on Euphoria. Fez saw the difference in her and nurtured it. Because, for as “dumb” as Fez might come across to someone not looking deeper, he had an eye for oppressors. Especially considering his profession. The kind of eye that could lead to a Sinéadian accusation like, “And your parents paid you through/You got a nice big car, nothing bothers you/Somebody cut out your eyes, you refuse to see/Ah, somebody cut out your heart, you refuse to feel/And you live in a shell/You create your own hell.” A hell, in the end, that Cloud, nor O’Connor, was willing to live in.

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    Genna Rivieccio

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  • Irish music icon Sinéad O’Connor passes away at 56, leaving a profound legacy

    Irish music icon Sinéad O’Connor passes away at 56, leaving a profound legacy

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    At the age of 56, Sinéad O’Connor, the passionate Irish singer-songwriter known for her unique voice and controversial views on child abuse, war, and religion, has passed away. Despite her brief period of pop stardom, she remained a polarising figure throughout her career.

    A statement released by the singer’s family read, “It is with great sadness that we announce the passing of our beloved Sinéad. Her family and friends are devastated and have requested privacy at this very difficult time.”

    Irish Prime Minister Leo Varadkar responded to news about the singer’s passing away, he wrote on Twitter, “Really sorry to hear of the passing of Sinéad O’Connor. Her music was loved around the world and her talent was unmatched and beyond comparison. Condolences to her family, her friends and all who loved her music.”

    In the late Eighties, O’Connor was already gaining popularity as a rising star. However, it was in 1990 that she became a household name with her rendition of Prince’s Nothing Compares 2 U which topped the charts. Her unique vocal style, characterised by Celtic influences and breathy swoops that could be both calming and jarring, continued to resonate throughout the Nineties and inspired artists like Sarah McLachlan and Alanis Morissette. Morissette even credited O’Connor’s music as a significant influence on her album Jagged Little Pill.

    In defiance of record executives’ expectations for her to conform to conventional beauty standards, Connor chose to shave her head. Additionally, she candidly discussed her mental health challenges in a Facebook video from 2017, revealing that she felt compelled to continue living for the sake of others and that she would have preferred to pass away if given the choice.

    Sinéad O'Connor

    Canadian Musician Bryan Adams wrote aheartfelt post for Connor, “RIP Sinéad O’Connor, I loved working with you making photos, doing gigs in Ireland together and chats, all my love to your family.”


    American singer-songwriter Tori Amos, reacting to the news, wrote, “Sinead was a force of nature. A brilliant songwriter & performer whose talent we will not see the like of again—such passion, such intense presence & a beautiful soul, who battled her own personal demons courageously. Be at peace dear Sinead, you will forever be in our hearts. t”



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    Filmfare

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  • 12 Emerging Designers to Know From Fashion Month

    12 Emerging Designers to Know From Fashion Month

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    As another fashion month comes to a close, a whole new host of rising designers have emerged as the shining stars of the runway. While New York Fashion Week tends to prioritize new labels over traditional household names, with usual suspects like Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs taking the season off or showing off schedule, other cities like London and Paris are also adding their fair share of new labels to the official calendar. Here, a few of our favorites from the fall 2023 season.


    Wiederhoeft

    Don Ashby

    Jackson Wiederhoeft launched the eponymous Wiederhoeft brand in 2019, after becoming inspired by all things dance and theater. The designer is a Parsons School of Design alum who also worked under Thom Browne for three years. Each collection is a masterpiece in merging form and fantasy, with characters walking the runway in precise corseted gowns, trompe-l’œi lingerie prints, denim hooded dresses, and puffed tulle skirts—this season, influenced by a retelling of Orpheus. “A lot of my work is concerned with recontextualizing archetypal imagery…taking a lot of ancient Greek and Catholic imagery and kind of recontextualizing [and] decontextualizing into a post-future, post-gender kind of space,” he tells ELLE.com.


    BruceGlen

    bruceglen fw23

    DONALD STAHL

    BruceGlen was without a doubt the most colorful runway of NYFW, and that was every bit intentional—just ask identical twin designers Bruce and Glen Proctor. “We’ve always been drawn to color and shine, but haven’t always felt the license to wear it,” they say. “We decided to embrace what naturally moved us: color. We begin to recognize the power of color, its ability to change an atmosphere and mood. It’s important for us that BruceGlen sparks joy. There are so many sad things happening in the world. We want our contribution to be joy, through all the gifts that we have.” The brand began with handbags and relaunched in 2019 to include a rainbow of jersey, grommeted dresses, and velvet tops. As a finishing touch, for the fall/winter 2023 show, five-time Grammy-winning gospel artist Naomi Raine sang “Order My Steps,” which was one of their late mother’s favorite gospel songs.


    Helena Eisenhart

    helena eisenhart

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    Rising designer Helena Eisenhart conceived their line in Brooklyn back in 2015, and has since gained a reputation for mixing unusual materials, like vinyl mesh screens found at construction sites as well as upcycled vintage fabrics, all in unisex silhouettes. For their New York Fashion Week debut for FW23, models sauntered across a glass-mirrored space with a chain-link fence donning structured cut-out pieces in a mostly all-black palette. “As a queer, mixed-race person living in New York City, I often feel both isolated and celebrated at the same time,” they say. “Uniforms and dress codes have been a big inspiration for my work since it is a clear way to share multiple identities through manners of dressing. It’s both a way to blend in and to show power and distinction. To dress according to a code can also mean to dress in disguise.”


    Elena Velez

    elena velez fw23

    Albert Urso

    Elena Velez is not interested in your perceptions of her as a designer, and that is perhaps what makes her the most interesting. Focused on the female form, rage, the apocalypse, and everything else that comes with being a woman, she founded her label in 2018 on the principals of using non-traditional materials, her Midwest background, and high fashion edge. Her FW2023 wasteland heroines had untouchable BDSM-esque glamour with an AI film experience to boot. “For me, the most exciting thing about this new season is getting to double down on world-building,” she says. “We had an amazing chance to articulate ourselves through so many different mediums and with the help of so many multidisciplinary collaborators this season. Creatively, the accomplishment was getting to build a story around these romantic abstractions from the places back home we’re all familiar with, but have lost touch with.”


    Sinéad O’Dwyer

    london, england february 17 models walk the runway for sinéad o'dwyer during london fashion week february 2023 at the bfc newgen show space on february 17, 2023 in london, england photo by kate greenbfcgetty images

    Kate Green/BFC

    As one of the most definitively diverse and inclusive designers of the next generation, Irish Sinéad O’Dwyer launched her London-based label in 2018 with the concept of creating runway clothing tailored for everyone—regardless of size, ability, or aesthetics. Her bodycon pieces celebrate the body on its own terms, along with feminine self-expression. The FW23 collection paid tribute to her late grandmother, Rita O’Dwyer, with punky vests, sculpted bustier tops, and fishnet dresses and leggings.


    Feben

    feben fw23

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    “I think with anything, always leave it nicer than when you found it,” says London- based designer Feben Vemmenby, the brains behind Feben, of her ultimate goal for her namesake brand. “I guess that’s how I feel about this industry, and [what I] hope to achieve.” Her signatures are her silk twisted dresses, but she also has an eye for abstract prints and puffer silhouettes. Last season, her collection drew inspiration from the tarot deck, and for fall, she decided to focus on a single card: The Chariot, yielding more twisted dresses—this time, with giant shoulders—and a sea of surreal prints.


    Dilara Findikoglu

    dilara findikoglu

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    Part of the next generation of female designers who are doing things radically different by being laser-focused on all that womanhood embodies, Turkish-Brit talent Dilara Findikoglu titled her fall 2023 collection presented at London Fashion Week, “Not a Man’s Territory.” Per her show notes, “I am not the best writer but I have been thinking… (something I overdo anyway…) Why men have way too much control over our bodies? What should a woman wear? How much is too much?” Among the standout looks: a Joan of Arc-inspired dress covered in Victorian knives, a Victorian lace-inspired lingerie, and a minidress made out of armor consisting of hair clips.


    Róisín Pierce

    róisín pierce fw23

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    “There are many things that inspire,” Róisín Pierce says of her all-white concoctions of saccharine dresses, puffy sweaters, and cream puff sets. Since starting her line, the Irish designer has made it her mission to focus on artisanal techniques and traditional craftsmanship, as well as textile manipulation, and it shows in the incredibly complex designs. “From emotion to sociopolitics, the craft, and the design process, I find my brand and inspiration are many things conjured up into one.” For fall/winter 2023, the designer hosted her Paris debut with a collection full of her signatures.


    Pressiat

    pressiat

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    Pressiat was officially founded in 2021 by Vincent Garnier Pressiat, but it’s already become one of the most interesting rising brands to watch in Paris. Its fashion shows are also typically unexpected. Picture this: a club in Pigalle full of gender-fluid goths, party kids, and all-around characters dressed in period-style pieces that push the boundaries of good taste and bad, as well as costume and character. Pressiat is for the bold, and it will always surprise you.


    Duran Lantink

    duran lantink

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    You can take the designer out of Amsterdam, but you can’t take Amsterdam out of the designer. Among many things, emerging label Duran Lantink has hosted an X-rated fashion show inside a club in the Red Light District, dressed Beyoncé, and cut up designer garments from Balenciaga, Prada, and Diesel to remake one-off pieces—his specialty. For the first time ever, he also presented a runway show at Paris Fashion Week.


    Chen Peng

    chen peng

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    Chen Peng founded his label a little over six years ago, and has since become a low-key favorite in fashion’s inner circles. The Chinese designer focuses on puffed-up, inflated silhouettes that cross the line between cartoonish and intriguing. Rihanna, Bella Hadid, and Lady Gaga have all worn his work. His FW23 collection, shown at PFW, was comprised of all the oversized silhouettes, with a dash of humor. (Peng loves to include giant puffy hand motifs throughout.)


    Florentina Leitner

    florentina leitner

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    Austrian knitwear designer Florentina Leitner graduated in 2020 and launched her label full of quirky silhouettes, fun hats, and unusual sunglasses soon after. For the past couple of seasons, Leitner has chosen Paris as a home base for debuting her new collections. Consider her the new guard of quirky knitwear designers who take color and unabashed self-expression seriously—but not too seriously.


    Headshot of Kristen Bateman

    Contributing Editor

    Kristen Bateman is a contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Her first fashion article was published in Vogue Italia during her junior year of high school. Since then, she has interned and contributed to WWD, Glamour, Lucky, i-D, Marie Claire and more. She created and writes the #ChicEats column and covers fashion and culture for Bazaar. When not writing, she follows the latest runway collections, dyes her hair to match her mood, and practices her Italian in hopes of scoring 90% off Prada at the Tuscan outlets. She loves vintage shopping, dessert and cats.

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