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Tag: show reports

  • This is exactly how many plus size models walked during fashion month

    “We would love for you to attend our fashion month show.”

    Me: “Are you providing dressing options?”

    “Nothing in your size, sadly, but we do have these really fun earrings!”

    In 2019, this was a common conversation I had with many London Fashion Week shows. It became rather tedious and honestly quite offensive.

    For many years, as a plus-size woman, I’d been made to feel grateful to even be invited to these fashion month shows because, quite frankly, I didn’t have the acceptable ‘fashion-worthy body’ that’s so prevalent in the fashion industry – even though I had nearly a decade’s worth of high-end fashion editorials, billboards, beauty campaigns and articles under my name. My size was definitely still an issue. Plus-size models were definitely still an issue.

    So, for the last three years I have been recording how many curve or plus-size models walk down the runway across the four main fashion weeks, and looking into whether any social trends or headlines have been able to alter and manipulate the numbers across the board dramatically. Let’s look at this past fashion month’s credentials…

    NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

    The rise of the Ozempic trend in the US is still hanging around, three years since its first popularity – and it was quite apparent that the impact of this trend alongside the return of archaic phrases such as ‘heroin chic’ and ‘skinny is back’ hugely altered the messaging at NYFW back in 2022. After a lot of backlash, they more than doubled their numbers for curve models to 70 models later in that year, but their numbers have been decreasing ever since – averaging at around 40 models each season in 2024. Last Feb we saw a 50% drop and now the later part of 2025 we are back to our low average.

    Gone are the days when the US were leaders when it comes to size inclusivity on the runway, so it is a real shame to see the big apple plummet back the past few years. Again in 2025, there was also no male plus-size representation, which is highly disappointing from the city that used to be the forefront of inclusion.

    With over 117 designers showing this season and an average of 40 looks per show, there were around 4680 looks on the runways.

    46 of them were considered curve or plus.

    The designer loyally flying the flag for representation season after season is Christian Siriano, who cast eight plus-size girls on his runway this season. Jade Ward had four curve models, Michael Kors, Kim Shui, Bach Mai, Christian Cowan all had three models each.

    Launchmetrics.com/spotlight

    Felicity Hayward

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  • The 7 shoe trends that you'll see everywhere this festive season

    The 7 shoe trends that you'll see everywhere this festive season

    Embarking on new season fashion trends might feel intimidating, but dipping a toe into the world of new shoe trends can often feel a whole lot more manageable. After all, not only do they take up a smaller percentage of your look than a head-to-toe outfit but they’re also much easier to switch out for an emergency spare pair should you regret your choice by lunch time.

    But what are the shoe trends this festive season?

    Whether you’re a heel wearer or into comfier kicks, you’re looking for something that’ll make a statement or you’re in the market for a timeless new pair that’ll see you through several seasons to come, autumn/winter 2023 has got it all.

    Here are the 7 key shoe trends that you’re about to start noticing everywhere

    1. SHARP POINTS

    After years of the square-toe reigning supreme, it’s time for a new silhouette to take centre stage. While the rounded-toe might be popular in the world of ballet flats right now, thankfully it’s not the shape we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. Instead, it’s all about the point. And not just any point… The sharper, more aggressive the point on your shoe, the more on-trend it is. Whether you’re shopping for boots or courts, stilettos or flats, if your shoe looks like it could potentially puncture a football you’re on the right track. Unless, of course, you’re a footballer.

    Spotted at: (L-R) Loewe, Versace, Prada

    Getty Images

    2. SILVER METALLICS

    Nothing says party season like a little metallic action. But while we have a few more months to wait until those Christmas events kick off, some of our favourite fashion houses have decided to bring the party forward ever so slightly, with some pretty major silver footwear options for winter. The perfect way to zhush up a full-length knit, to offset an angelic white tight moment or bring a high fashion edge to your date night look, we’d be lying if we said we weren’t sold the minute we spotted the first pair hit the runway.

    Charlie Teather

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  • 13 autumn fashion trends you should know about (and try!) this season

    13 autumn fashion trends you should know about (and try!) this season

    The colder months have officially arrived meaning it’s time to discover this year’s key winter fashion trends. Sure all we’ve needed over recent weeks has been an umbrella and wellies, but there are some much more fun AW23 trends to know about – and while the sun may still occasionally be shining it’s never too early to get clued-up. Particularly, let’s be honest, when it’ll take many of us a moment to get our heads around some of the slightly more left-field looks.

    Meteorological chaos aside, all this new season fashion fun is actually one of the most exciting things about the arrival of winter. And for fellow lovers of layers, just the *thought* of a good coat atop some super chic knitwear sees us – dare we say it – wishing for those lower temperatures.

    If you’re eager to see what your wardrobe might look like this winter keep reading, because thanks to the world’s four fashion capitals – that’s New York, London, Milan and Paris – who are always ahead of the curve, autumn/winter 2023’s fashion trends were forecasted way back in February.

    These are the key sartorial takeaways to prep yourself for the new season…

    1. PERPETUAL PLEATING

    One of the simplest ways to elevate a look, pleating is back in a big way this winter. Whether you opt for a soft, draped pleat à la Loewe or a more intricate, dense pleat like Paco Rabanne and Rokh, it’s a great way to add a sense of texture without overcomplicating a look through various different fabrics or layers. Keep the rest of your outfit relatively monochrome in order to let the pleating do the talking.

    Spotted at: (L-R) Paco Rabanne, Loewe & Rokh – as well as Coperni, Atlein, Tove, Givenchy, Ferragamo, Altuzarra, Balmain & Mugler

    Getty Images

    Charlie Teather

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  • 5 London Fashion Week designers you should have on your radar in 2024

    5 London Fashion Week designers you should have on your radar in 2024

    Sure, you’ve heard of Burberry, Roksanda and JW Anderson, but how much do you know about London Fashion Week‘s ones to watch?

    The undisputed home of young talent, London Fashion Week is nothing if not a showcase for the up-and-coming major names. But with a schedule bursting full with almost 100 shows, how do you spot the names to know?

    Luckily for you, we’ve done all the legwork. Introducing the five names you should have on your radar in 2024 (and beyond)…

    TOLU COKER

    Tolu Coker SS24

    Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

    Tolu Coker SS24

    Tolu Coker SS24

    Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

    Tolu Coker SS24

    Tolu Coker SS24

    Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

    For her debut solo collection Tolu Coker took us back to her motherland. The collection was a celebration of African spirituality featuring feminine cuts and tailoring staples that felt like a breath of fresh air following the quiet luxury mood of last season.

    Tolu Coker has worked in-house at Maison Margiela and JW Anderson, which is evident through her ability to tell a story through a collection.

    She had us drooling over timeless wardrobe pieces that were given an energetic makeover, from denim to the chicest modern mini styles. The prints, silhouettes and accessories are still on our minds and truly enough to get anyone excited about head-to-toe dressing.

    STANDING GROUND

    Standing Ground SS24

    Standing Ground SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Standing Ground SS24

    Standing Ground SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Standing Ground SS24

    Standing Ground SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Irish designer, Michael Stewart is inspired by the ancient landscape and the relationship between nature and humankind, and has the most romantic way of reimagining this into gowns that are couture-worthy. Part of the Fashion East collective, which supports new designers, Standing Ground is quickly becoming a go-to for new-age glamour.

    For SS24, Stewart showed another beautiful collection of soft glamour, with hand-finished detailing and luxurious jersey fabrics that were all about the fit and form of the female body. His pieces are guaranteed to be on red carpets everywhere during awards season. Salma Hayek is already a fan.

    AHLUWALIA

    Ahluwalia SS24

    Ahluwalia SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Ahluwalia SS24

    Ahluwalia SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Ahluwalia SS24

    Ahluwalia SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Priya Ahluwalia is not new to the LFW line-up but has become one of the most hyped up shows of the season, for good reason. Upcycling and sustainability is the centre of her design process. The designer uses deadstock garments, locally sourced vintage and pre-loved pieces to create new designs inspired by her multi-ethnic background.

    For SS24, Ahluwalia featured iconic denim patchwork pieces and feel-good clothes that felt like a celebration of identity.

    The colours were bold yet romantic with delicate prints and fabrics which were well balanced with new-age cowboy boots. With successful brand collaborations like Mulberry, Ganni and Adidas under her belt, we’re excited to see Ahluwalia continue being a force for (sustainable) fashion.

    JOHANNA PARV

    Johanna Parv SS24

    Johanna Parv SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Johanna Parv SS24

    Johanna Parv SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Johanna Parv SS24

    Johanna Parv SS24

    WWD/Getty Images

    Johanna Parv, also part of the Fashion East collective, has created her own innovative design aesthetic which is not only functional but very chic. With an impressive CV including fashion brands Balenciaga, Christian Dior and Burberry, she is a pro in well constructed pieces. Johanna Parv is best known for her monochrome palette, functionality and comfort.

    Light-weight jackets and remixed leggings are given a contemporary makeover, making them essentials to any capsule wardrobe. Perfectly designed with balance, the collection is ideal dressing for those who wish they could live in gym clothes, but fashion. In a nutshell it is the most fabulous cycling wear you have ever seen.

    YUHAN WANG

    Yuhan Wang SS24

    Yuhan Wang SS24

    Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

    Yuhan Wang SS24

    Yuhan Wang SS24

    Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

    Yuhan Wang SS24

    Yuhan Wang SS24

    Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images

    Yuhan Wang is a Central St Martins graduate (which is always a good sign) and has been a favourite during London Fashion Week since her debut show in 2020. The designer set out to explore and challenge Asia’s traditional standards about femininity through clothes and how these connect to Western Culture.

    You can expect romantic lace and knit separates, exaggerated silhouettes and floral prints that feel soft yet empowering. Hailey Bieber and Kylie Jenner are already big fans of this cult London brand and have worn they’re most coveted pieces which are known for being revealing but covered up – an it-girl mood. Her collections are always a masterclass in vibrant layering with romantic blazers, gloves, removable collars.

    For more from Glamour’s European Fashion Editor Londi Ncube, follow her on Instagram @londisgoods.

    For more from Glamour UK’s Fashion Editor Charlie Teather, follow her on Instagram @charlieteather.

    Londi Ncube, Charlie Teather

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  • 6 spring trends to try out now from Richard Quinn’s intensely emotional London Fashion Week show

    6 spring trends to try out now from Richard Quinn’s intensely emotional London Fashion Week show

    While much of London Fashion Week is about the most viral moments, hottest trends and latest labels to lust over for the upcoming season, every now and then a designer makes you stop in your tracks as they serve up a moment, not just a collection. And almost every season that designer is Richard Quinn.

    Having staged a perfectly-pitched showcase in tribute to Her Majesty The Queen just one week after her death last September, this season’s runway was similarly sombre – but entirely more personal – in mood, as Richard’s spring/summer 2024 collection was dedicated to his late father, Patrick James Quinn, who died in June.

    “In times of great sadness and loss comes a sense of reflection and calm,” read the show notes, with a handwritten caption printed on the other side saying: “This one’s for you, Dad”.

    Five ballet dancers opened the show to a live choir’s rendition of Lord of the Dance, in what was a particularly uplifting ‘celebration’ of Patrick’s life; “a wonderful father, grandfather, brother and husband.”

    Richard Quinn, Spring/Summer 2024

    Victor VIRGILE

    As he walked out to accept his applause, a teary-eyed Richard Quinn quietly walked over to embrace his mother who was sitting alongside an empty chair with a framed image of his father.

    Accepting his applause as modestly as ever, you could sense the genius designer’s overwhelm when the entire room rose to their feet to give him a thoroughly-deserved standing ovation. It was one of those rare moments amidst a packed schedule of back-to-back shows which saw editors continue to applaud long after the designer’s exit, when so often they’d be halfway to the next show by that point.

    Of course, a mood is quickly squashed if the collection doesn’t live up to the showcase surrounding it. After all, that is what we’re all there for, and what lasts longer than the moment created to unveil it. Luckily for Richard, his couture-like focus on craftsmanship is yet to disappoint and his vision for SS24 is just as exquisite as we’ve come to expect.

    Charlie Teather

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