However, soil that is too heavy and full of clay would benefit from amendments like sand and larger quantities of compost before planting. Coral bells do not do well in heavy, dense soil.
Cultivars to Select
I’m a sucker for the nearly black cultivars, a rare color in the garden that tends to evoke a lot of interest. But overall, I’ve never met a alumroot I didn’t like.
Caramel
‘Caramel’ is nice because it has a color that gets along with almost every other hue in the garden.
You can find pelleted Melting Fire seeds available in a variety of packet sizes at True Leaf Market.
Palace Purple
‘Palace Purple’ is another darker-leafed cultivar that I’ve seen in many gardens. Its muted, understated color is perfect as an accent to something like hostas.
By the mid-1850s, the hybridization of various species as ornamental specimens was well underway across Europe.
It wasn’t until the 19th Century that hellebores made their way into American gardens, courtesy of Cornell University botanist Liberty Hyde Baily, whose Cyclopedia of American Horticulture described eight species well suited to home gardening.
By the 20th Century, other noteworthy Philadelphia region gardens, including the Scott Arboretum at Swarthmore College, and Winterthur, the DuPont estate, had impressive ornamental collections.
Because of their ease of cultivation, early bloom time, and longevity, today’s hellebores are in great demand.
To enjoy hellebores at their best, select locations that are sheltered from the summer sun, and give them room to naturalize.
Consider planting sites that can be comfortably viewed through windows, or near entryways, so you don’t to go strolling about the frozen grounds to appreciate them.
If you’re a winter-hardy soul, you may like to scatter plants along wooded paths, beneath deciduous trees and shrubbery, and in the shadow of structures like walls and fences, where they can be discovered and celebrated.
A Note of Caution:
It is important to note that like many ornamentals, hellebores are toxic to people and pets.
In addition, skin contact may cause irritation, so gardening gloves are a must when you are handling these plants.
How to Grow
Hellebores require loamy soil that is moist but drains well, with an ideal pH of 7.0 to 8.0. You may want to conduct a soil test and amend according to the recommendations.
They also do best planted under deciduous trees that provide at least partial shade in summer months. You need to avoid placements that expose plants to strong, drying winds.
New plants should be provided with about an inch of water per week in the absence of rain.
You want the soil to maintain even moisture, but not become oversaturated. Once established, additional water is only necessary during dry spells.
Fertilization is not necessary, simply maintain the loamy soil, amending it each spring with rich organic material to provide a fertile growing medium.
Hellebores are long-lived, and each year they get bigger and produce more flowers.
You can expect at least 10 productive years for your investment, given proper soil and moisture, and a hospitable location.
Here are a few of my favorite cultivars to get started:
Onyx Odyssey
Double-flowered ‘Onyx Odyssey’ is a standout in the late winter garden. Imagine the contrast between a light coating of white snow and the deep purple-black blooms.
Keep the garden weeded to deter pests and inhibit disease. Snip off spent flower stems at their base to promote foliar growth post-bloom.
If you want to divide plants, do so in late winter or early fall. This is not a necessity, unless clumps don’t have room to naturalize or you want to propagate new plants.
Late fall is the time to prune the old foliage to the ground to make way for next spring’s new growth.
Some folks leave the foliage in place because it is evergreen, but in locales with harsh winters, the leaves often end up floppy and brown, and spoil the appearance of spring’s new blossoms.
In addition, old foliage may harbor pests and diseases that winter over, so it may be wise to cut the stems back to the ground.
When I first moved to Philadelphia, I marveled at what I first thought were sweeps of wisteria in the trees growing along the highway.
Photo by Matt Suwak.
A few weeks later I learned that these were the flowers of the paulownia or Royal Empress tree (Paulownia tomentosa).
Suitable for Zones 6 to 9, this is a beautiful specimen that offers a 30- to 40-foot height with a similar spread, adding 24 inches per year.
The leaves on young specimens are massive and in the fall the foliage drops without changing color.
Despite being beautiful, paulownia is also plagued by weak and brittle wood, roots that pop through the surface of the soil, and a weakness to cold snaps in the spring.
They are also a very vigorous seeder; check locally to see if the paulownia is considered an invasive species in your area.
If paulownia has a more specific or pressing issue, it is that it is a voracious grower and will seed far and beyond your intended planting area.
10. Pecan
The pecan (Carya illinoinensis) is no stranger to Texas, where it is the state tree.
Offering delicious nuts and an incredible height and spread – 70 to 100 feet tall and 40 to 70 feet wide – few trees offer as many benefits as the pecan.
If you have room, plant three or four specimens to guarantee pollination and a crop of tasty pecans.
They tolerate a variety of soil types in Zones 6 to 9 and will add as much as 24 inches of height per year.
There are a handful of different varieties available, including Desirable, Elliot, Pawnee, Stuart, Sumner, and Hardy pecan.
The biggest downside to pecans is that they grow a large taproot, making it difficult to transplant except when they are very young and small.
Among the oldest and largest organisms on the planet, the quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides) is an excellent choice for a shade tree – if you have the room for it.
Hardy in Zones 1 to 7, it prefers moist soil, and shoots out suckers that will eventually grow into full-sized specimens.
This colony of trees can be a blessing if you have enough space, but can be problematic if planting in a more controlled area.
Quaking aspen earns its name from the unequivocally soothing sound of its leaves fluttering en masse in the slightest of breezes.
It grows to mature heights of between 30 and 50 feet with a spread of 20 to 30, adding two feet per year.
Remember that this tree grows in its own colony, and can form an effective, impenetrable shade screen when allowed to go wild.
With stunning yellow foliage in the fall, it requires a massive cleanup. Again, the quaking aspen is not a tree to grow in a controlled area.
When grown outside of its natural northern ranges, quaking aspen can be impacted by heat stresses and fungal problems.
This species is also a magnet for wildlife. Unfortunately, this wildlife can come in the form of pests such as aspen borers and tent caterpillars.
Borers can invite future fungal problems, and tent caterpillars cause branch die-off. Both can be minimized with proper watering and fertilizing, and insecticidal treatments.
The river birch (Betula nigra) is an excellent addition to the landscape and is suitable for cultivation in Zones 4 to 9.
They grow best in clumps of several and can be used as specimens by themselves, but function optimally as part of a woodland garden.
River birches can reach mature heights of 40 to 70 feet with a 30- to 60-foot spread, putting on 13 to 24 inches of growth per year.
Birch trees grow in clumps, with older specimens dying and then being replaced by young ones.
Be wary of planting this fast-grower too close to the house or power lines. The catkins that fall in springtime can damage the paint on cars if allowed to mass up.
They both prefer well-drained soil but can tolerate drought; the river birch is the most resistant birch to the birch borer, a pest that can destroy birches.
13. Southern Live Oak
The adaptable and stately southern live oak (Quercus virginiana) is proof positive as to why oak trees are considered kings of the forest.
Although they are fast growing, oaks tend to be most successful when planted from nursery stock.
Their willingness to adapt to almost any soil condition makes them favored ornamentals in many areas of Zones 7 to 10, and their resistance to pollution makes them ideal street trees.
Add to that an incredible wind resistance, and the southern live oak makes for an ideal planting.
They grow to an impressive 50 to 80 feet tall, with a massive 60- to 100-foot spread, putting on up to 24 inches per year.
The live oak is resistant to hurricanes and the big storms that tend to rage across the southeast, but it is less resistant to freezing temperatures.
Growing a live oak on the northern limits of its range could be courting trouble.
It is also a habitat for other plants including Spanish moss, an image ubiquitous with the south.
If planted near a curb or sidewalk, the roots of the live oak will seem to “melt” over the stones; this is called thigmotropism and is an interesting feature of the live oak.
14. Tulip Popular
Tulip poplars (Liriodendron tulipifera) are some of the tallest trees in the eastern United States.
The tallest known specimen stands at 191 feet! They can put on up to 24 inches of growth per year.
Offering an attractive leaf shape and prolific flowering in the spring, tulip poplars are an excellent choice for shade in Zones 4 to 9.
They also stand proudly in any landscape, offering shade and towering authority. Tulip poplars do best in full sun where they are allowed to spread out and grow freely.
Their seedlings can sprout up around your lawn and around property lines, and probably in your neighbor’s yard, and their neighbor’s, and then their neighbor’s too!
Tulip poplars produce a mass of debris from flowers and branches to shed leaves. Watch for yellowing leaves in the summer, a sign of dehydration and then weakening of wood.
Persian shield, Strobilanthes dyerianus, is a stunning ornamental species that originates in warm, humid Myanmar, where it grows as a tender evergreen perennial.
It is a member of the Acanthaceae family, which consists mostly of flowering tropical flora.
With its unique iridescent purple leaves, S. dyerianus had no difficulty attracting the attention of US gardeners, and is now grown here as an annual, perennial, and houseplant.
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In this article, you will learn all you need to know to cultivate this delightful tropical foliage outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 11.
It may also be grown as an indoor houseplant in all locales.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
Tropical Persian shield, aka royal purple plant, thrives on heat and humidity, yielding its most brilliant color in bright, indirect sunlight and partially shaded locations.
It prefers temperatures above 60°F.
The characteristic broadleaf foliage positively shimmers. Neon shades of purple veined with green seem to be overlaid with a silver gloss.
The growth habit is upright with leaves that are lance-shaped and measure six to eight inches long.
Stems are soft and may exceed three feet in height. Over time, they may become woody.
Common name(s): Persian shield, royal purple plant
Plant type: Tender evergreen perennial
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 10-11 (outdoors)
Native to: Myanmar
Bloom time / season: Spring and summer
Exposure: Bright indirect sun to part shade
Soil type: Organically-rich loam, well-draining
Soil pH: 5.5-7.5, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 3-5 years
Mature size: 1-3 feet tall by 1-3 feet wide
Best uses:Beds, borders, containers, houseplant
Taxonomy
Order: Lamiales
Family: Acanthaceae
Genus:Strobilanthes
Species:Dyerianus
The reason is not entirely understood, but is believed to be an example of “masting” behavior, in which blooming is sporadic, but profuse when it occurs.
This botanical phenomenon makes it impossible for wildlife to depend upon the seeds for food, as they are not always available.
In cooler regions, Persian shield grows as a summer annual, often failing to exhibit its most vibrant color, and dying off with the first frost.
With its vivid silvery-purple hues, Persian shield makes a bold perennial statement in warm-region gardens.
Most varieties have medium green foliage, but some cultivars are variegated with cream streaks and edging on the leaves.
Flowers bloom in small clusters of two or three that hang below the stems where they arch over, lasting for several weeks in spring.
Flowers are followed by small, almost black grape-like fruits that are popular with birds.
Quick Look
Common name(s): King Solomon’s-seal, Solomon’s seal, sealwort
Plant type: Herbaceous rhizome
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 3-9
Native to: Temperate regions of Asia, Europe, and North America
Bloom time / season: Spring
Exposure: Morning sun or full to partial shade
Soil type: Organically rich loam, well-draining
Soil pH: 5.0 to 7.0, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 3-5 years
Mature size: 12-36 inches tall by 8-12 inches wide (depending on species)
Best uses:Foliage ornamental for native flower, shade, woodland gardens
Taxonomy
Order: Asparagales
Family: Asparagaceae
Genus:Polygonatum
Species:Biflorum, humile, odoratum, multiflorum, x hybridum
Although some species have historical usage as an edible and in folk medicine, it should be noted that most parts of Solomon’s seal, including the berries, are toxic to humans and pets.
Proper preparation of young rhizomes and shoots is required before they can be consumed.
How to Grow
Solomon’s seal is prized for its easy care but performs best when given the conditions it loves. Let’s take a closer look at those conditions right now.
Light
Polygonatum species are most robust in partial to full shade, ideally where they receive morning or dappled sunlight and are protected from hot afternoon sun.
Soil
Solomon’s seal plants prefer growing mediums that are fertile and humus-rich but are adaptable to heavy or clay soils if amended with plenty of natural materials such as compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings.
The soil must be well-draining to avoid root rot.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
If needed, amend with one part of grit to ensure water moves away from the roots – materials such as landscape sand, crushed shells, pea gravel, or stone chips are good for providing a sharper texture for better drainage.
Avoid adding landscape sand to heavy clay soils or it will end up like concrete!
Water
New divisions require about one inch of water per week to maintain evenly moist soil.
Container-grown plants may need more frequent water applications especially during warm weather.
Once established, plants develop good drought tolerance and watering can be cut back. Mature colonies can be watered when the top one or two inches of soil dries out.
Temperature and Humidity
During the growing season, Solomon’s seal enjoys cool to warm temperatures in the range of 65 to 80°F.
They do well in areas of high humidity provided there’s ample air circulation to prevent fungal issues.
These herbaceous plants die back for winter but the rhizomes exhibit excellent cold-hardiness.
Most species and cultivars are hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 9, although a few, such as P. falcatumare hardy only to Zone 4.
Fertilizer
When planted in rich, fertile soil, Solomon’s seal rarely requires supplemental fertilizer.
In spring, a side dressing of compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings provides all the nutrients the plants need.
Gently work in one or two inches of organic matter using a hand cultivator.
Alternatively, an all-purpose, slow release granular feed can be scratched into the soil surface in spring.
It’s easy to forget that flowers aren’t just for sun-kissed spots – there are plenty that thrive in shade.
Exhibit A: astilbe. Of all the plants that could grace a shade garden, species of Astilbe arguably come in at the top of the list.
The foliage itself is visually interesting, but it’s the colorful flowers that really makes astilbe sing.
And as an added bonus, they don’t mind being placed in a wet corner of the yard. What more could you ask for from a shade-loving perennial?
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An astilbe is no wimp, but some TLC will definitely help it look its best. But what does that look like? I’m glad you asked.
We’ve prepared an informative overview of growing, establishing, and maintaining astilbe. We’ll also take a look at some nice cultivars that you can add to your own garden.
Keep reading to delve into the awesomeness of astilbe!
Here’s what we’ll be covering:
If you aren’t already familiar with these lovely perennials, then it’s time for some introductions!
What Are Astilbe Plants?
Belonging to the Saxifragaceae family, the Astilbe genus contains approximately 25 species of flowering herbaceous perennials, which are collectively hardy to USDA Zones 3 to 9 and native to east Asia, southeast Asia, and the southeastern United States.
The compound, feathery, and fern-like foliage of astilbe can vary in color, but it’s generally an emerald green in the spring with a bronze tone that becomes more pronounced as temperatures heat up.
As astilbe is a basal plant, the foliage tends to come up from a single point of origin at the plant’s base.
The mature size is also variable – depending on the species and variety, these plants can reach heights of six inches to five feet, and spreads of six inches to three feet!
A relatively slow-growing plant, astilbe spreads via underground rhizomes to fill in a space nicely, when given enough time.
Emerging atop tall stems in late spring to late fall are the flowers: panicled, feathery plumes of tiny blooms that come in white, pink, purple, or red hues.
Along with being just as graceful and easily windblown as the leaves, these flowers are super attractive to bees, butterflies, and other pollinating insects.
Cultivation and History
Each species of Astilbe has its own epic origin story of how it came to be cultivated by green thumbs.
But when discussing the history of astilbe as a whole, you can’t leave out George Arends.
A plant nurseryman from Ronsdorf, Germany, Arends was a master hybridizer.
In the 1920s, Arends utilized A. chinensis, A. japonica, A. thunbergii, and A. astilboides to create the Arendsii group of hybrids, designated A. x arendsii.
He was a real whiz, too – at one point, he developed 74 different varieties in a single year!
These hybrids, with their uniquely striking flowers, are a big reason why astilbes are so beloved today.
Astilbe Propagation
Have astilbe plants piqued your interest yet? You can start some in your very own garden by sowing seeds, dividing mature plants, or transplanting potted specimens from a nursery.
From Seed
I’ll be honest, propagating astilbe from seed can be a bit challenging. The germination rates can be low, and seed-grown plants can take years to flower. But it is possible.
However, varieties usually don’t grow true from seed, meaning seeds will probably produce a different-looking plant from the parent.
So, if propagating perfectly alike plants is the goal, then I’d stick with division. But if you enjoy the overall challenge and the possibility of a unique yield, then read on!
In the proper conditions, your plants may actually self-seed and yield nearby volunteer seedlings.
You can move these into new spots in late spring or early fall, or simply let them grow where they are.
For actual seed collection, keep an eye on your specimens once they bloom. Eventually, the inflorescences will form seed pods.
When they’re ready to harvest, they will appear brown and dry. Cut away these seed stalks and lay them out on sheets of newspaper to dry.
Once they are dry, remove the seed pods and place them in a paper bag. Shake the bag until the seeds have collected at the bottom of the bag. Put these seeds in a paper envelope, and keep them in a safe, dry spot until the following spring.
Come spring, take your seeds and soak them in lukewarm water for 24 hours. Pitch the floaters, as those aren’t viable.
Fill a seed tray with an even mix of coconut coir and perlite, or something that both retains moisture and lets the excess drains away.
Scatter the seeds across the media’s surface, gently press them in with a finger, and gently moisten the media with water.
Place the tray in an indirectly-lit spot indoors, somewhere where it’s at least 60°F. Keep the media moist, and the viable seeds should germinate in 20 to 25 days.
As the seedlings grow, pick out any weak or unhealthy ones.
When you have healthy seedlings with at least two pairs of true leaves, pot them on into their own three- to four-inch containers, kept in similar conditions as the seed tray.
In fall, before the frost date, they should be ready for transplanting into the garden or an outdoor container. And at three years of age, your seed-grown plants should start flowering.
But first, you’ll need to harden off your seedlings. That entails bringing them outside for a half hour to an hour, bringing them back inside, and then adding 30 to 60 minutes of outdoor exposure each following day until they can handle a full day outside prior to transplanting.
Via Division
Because it spreads via rhizomes and grows slowly, plants should be ready to dig up and divide every three to five years.
Believe it or not, a large enough clump can be divided into a dozen daughter plants!
For the gardener who wants to see results sooner rather than later, it’s suggested that you purchase plants from a reputable nursery.
Otherwise, you can transplant your divisions or seedlings!
Transplanting can happen in spring after the final frost, or in fall before the first frost.
Prepare partially shaded planting areas of rich, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0, ideally. Or, if you want to keep them from eventually spreading, you can also grow astilbe in containers.
Once it’s time for transplanting, dig holes about as deep and a bit wider than the transplants’ root systems. Space these holes about a foot apart.
Gently ease the transplants from their containers and lower them into the holes. Backfill the holes with dug-out soil, water in the soil, and you’re done!
How to Grow Astilbe
Let’s discuss what these plants need to thrive, shall we?
Climate and Exposure Needs
A fan of dappled shade, astilbes will do its best flowering with four to six hours of sun a day. If planted in deep shade, they’ll still grow lovely foliage, but not as many flowers.
Astilbes are at their best in a slightly acidic soil that is consistently moist, making them perfect for that low corner of your yard that receives consistent water run-off.
Regular additions of compost or well-rotted manure provide a fertile environment for astilbe, as well as improving your garden’s soil quality.
By amending your soil, you can make a more hospitable home for if your intended location is less than perfect.
Put in the extra effort to create an ideal site with good drainage, plenty of organic material, and consistent moisture, and you’ll find your astilbe at their happiest.
They’ll grow their best when given plenty of water, but they don’t like “wet feet.” That makes good drainage essential, and also makes heavy clay soils a no-go for these plants.
Irrigation-wise, if you check the soil an inch down and don’t feel moisture, then it’s definitely time to water.
Be careful not to water too much during the winter, as this will stress and harm the roots.
Growing Tips
Partial shade is best, but full sun and full shade are both tolerable.
A rich, moist, and well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0 is best.
Water whenever the top inch of soil dries out. Or, keep the soil constantly moist.
Pruning and Maintenance
Honestly, there’s not much to do here.
Leaving the flowers and foliage standing through the winter helps to ensure a smooth transition from winter to spring, and the flower heads can add special interest and a meal for hungry birds.
Every three to five years, divide your specimens to keep them appropriately sized for their planting site.
Specimens in containers should be repotted whenever they have less than an inch or two of space between the roots and the container’s sides.
Astilbe Cultivars to Select
There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, so we thought we’d narrow the list down a bit for you.
Each cultivar described below is a top pick so you can find the right plant for your yard, and we’ve included recommendations from our trusted affiliates to purchase your very own!
If you’ve got an ambition to add some pink to your garden, ‘Little Vision in Pink’ is the plant for you.
The color falls somewhere shy of bubblegum, but because the plant blooms in early to midsummer, it adds a complement to the maturing foliage of hostas and other shade plants.
A. chinensis ‘Vision in Red’ adds a hue just shy of fire truck red to boldly stand out from the cooler colors in your shade garden.
The flower plumes will grow more intense in color until they reach their peak in midsummer, and the bronzed foliage is yours to enjoy for the rest of the season.
Though they’re at their best in shady areas with moist soil, these plants are prone to a few problems. But just a few – they’re otherwise surprisingly resistant to pests and diseases.
Many common garden nuisances such as deer, rabbits, or even slugs and snails fail to pose a threat.
That being said, here’s how to deal with the threats your astilbes could face.
Insects
Make like a programmer, and keep your eyes peeled for bugs. These bugs, in particular:
Asiatic Garden Beetle
Also known as Maladera castanea, the Asiatic garden beetle came over to the States from Japan and China, and found itself a smorgasbord of plants to munch on. Astilbes in particular.
The tan to white grubs measure 5/16 to 3/8 of an inch in length, while the adult beetles are a third of an inch long, with a luminous reddish-brown sheen.
The grubs feed on the roots, while the adults feed on the foliage – both of which stress and weaken the plant.
Remove nearby plant detritus to deter populations the next season.
Small numbers of adult beetles can be hand-picked at night and tossed into soapy water, or even killed with light traps, which consist of an outdoor lightbulb situated six inches above a pan of soapy water on the ground.
Insecticides may be needed to combat the grubs and to fight severe infestations.
Black Vine Weevil
Another bothersome beetle, Otiorhynchussulcatus is a flightless, snout-nosed, hard-bodied, black beetle that’s half an inch long in adult form.
The stout grubs are the same length, with brown heads and white to pale yellow bodies.
Adults emerge in spring to feed on foliage, with peak feeding in summer and early fall. Larvae hatch from laid eggs and feed on roots and basal crowns.
The leaf munching is more aesthetically annoying, while the larvae feeding does more significant damage.
Adults can be removed and destroyed in spring, to stop them from feeding and laying eggs. Do this by going out at night, shaking damaged branches out over tarps, and crushing the bugs that fall on the tarp.
Additionally, spinosad can be sprayed on leaves to deter feeding.
You can use Heterorhabditis or Steinernema species of beneficial nematodes to drench the soil around infected plants, which should kill any larvae.
Systemic insecticides like imidacloprid can combat adults and larvae alike.
Lygus lineolaris feeds on many different plants besides astilbe – at least 385!
The adults are about a fifth of an inch in length, and are colored a mix of yellow to reddish brown to black, with relatively long antennae.
Overwintering in nearby plant detritus, rock piles, and water banks, the adults emerge in spring to feed on developing buds and flowers. Feeding with piercing-sucking mouthparts, they extract sap, and can also transmit disease.
Eliminate overwintering sites by pulling adjacent weeds and cleaning up nearby plant detritus.
Simply picking the bugs off of plants and dropping them in soapy water is the preferred control method, but you can also look into introducing parasitic wasps.
Disease
Diseases can easily spread, so lessen the odds of infection by frequently sterilizing your garden tools.
Keep an eye out for the following:
Cercospora Leaf Spot
Caused by various species of Cercospora fungi, leaf spot causes cosmetic spots on leaf surfaces, and also hinders plant growth.
Many gardeners will just let it go or simply remove infected leaves, but preventative applications of copper fungicide have been shown to put a marginal dent in the spread of this disease.
Fusarium Wilt
Infecting the vascular, water-conducting xylem tissues of plants, this wilt is caused by Fusarium oxysporum, a soil-borne fungus that survives in soil for long periods of time.
Once infected, a plant will wilt, droop, turn yellow, and become twisted, often on just one side. Drought symptoms are common, despite excess moisture being a causal factor. Infected plants eventually die.
Proper watering is the key to prevention. If infected, a specimen should be promptly removed, along with the surrounding soil.
Powdery Mildew
A common affliction of many different plants, powdery mildew is caused by fungal species of Erysiphe, which coat plant leaves with a layer of white, dusty powder.
The causal spores can travel via wind and germinate without needing free water, which makes spread all too easy.
As powdery mildew can harm the leaves and stunt plant growth, it may be helpful to prune infected foliage. You can learn more about how to manage powdery mildew in our guide.
Best Uses for Astilbe
Astilbes are actually quite aesthetically versatile.
Whether you place them in a shade garden or bog garden, as a border or along a waterway, in a container or en masse, an astilbe never fails to look awesome.
You can even harvest the blooms at their peak for use as cut flowers!
Thriving in shady, regularly moist areas offers an astilbe plenty of planting companions. Hosta and iris are natural pals, along with heuchera, trillium, impatiens, and begonias.
Also, consider using mosses and ferns – if you have a suitable spot for astilbe, it’s almost guaranteed that mosses and ferns will readily establish themselves there, too.
Woody shrubs like azaleas and rhododendrons go hand in hand with astilbe as well.
They prefer the same type of light, favor the same slightly acidic and moist soils, and they even have complementary bloom colors!
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous flowering perennial
Flower/Foliage Color:
Pink, purple, red, white / green, bronze
Native to:
East Asia, southeast Asia, southeastern United States
Tolerance:
Deer, full sun (in northern climates), heavy shade, rabbits, slugs/snails
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
3-9
Maintenance:
Moderate
Bloom Time:
Late spring to late summer
Soil Type:
Organically-rich, moist
Exposure:
Partial shade
Soil pH:
6.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:
3 years (blooming), 4-6 years (full size)
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Spacing:
6 inches-3 feet
Attracts:
Bees, butterflies/moths, other pollinators
Planting Depth:
Surface sow (seeds), depth of root system (transplants)
Younique Pink™, (A. x ‘Verspink’) is a hybrid cross between A. arendsii and A. japonica with fluffy bubblegum pink blossoms and glossy gray-green foliage that turns bronze in the fall.
It grows well in Zones 4 to 9 in part to full shade. Mature heights are 16 to 20 inches.
This wetland species grows from rhizomes that are toxic and may cause skin irritation, so be sure to wear gloves when handling and keep children and pets away.
Columbine, (Aquilegia spp.) grows in Zones 3 to 9. This spring-to-summer bloomer has moderate water needs and prefers part shade to full sun locations.
It is known as an ephemeral because the delicate foliage withers and vanishes after a brief bloom period.
Native, introduced, and hybrid varieties are available in single and bicolor combinations with colors that include orange, pink, purple, red, white, and yellow.
The flowers have unique nectar-filled spurs that attract hummingbirds and bumble bees. Heights vary by type and range from six to 36 inches tall.
Rocky Mountain native, Aquilegia canadensis‘Colorado Blue’ is prized for its generously proportioned violet-blue and white blossoms. Mature heights are 12 to 24 inches.
Coral bells (Heuchera spp.) grows in Zones 4 to 9 and prefers part shade to full sun placements.
In the warmest regions, it benefits from some afternoon shade. The growth habit is clumping with a basal mound of foliage ranging from chartreuse to purple.
Leafless inflorescences bear clusters of tiny, bell-shaped blossoms in pink or white hues from early summer to frost, depending upon the cultivar.
Lamiastrum galeobdolon, aka yellow archangel, looks like Lamium, or deadnettle, with its silvery-green foliage, but instead of pinkish-purple flowers, it sports bright yellow blooms.
False lamium is a fast-growing, creeping ground cover in the mint family that’s suited to Zones 4 to 9. Beware of its aggressive tendencies.
Photo by Salicyna, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
Plants grow in part sun to full shade with moist, well-draining soil. They mature to heights of six to 12 inches and provide a spring-to-fall display.
9. Hellebore
The hellebore (Helleborus spp.) is one of the earliest plants of the season, blooming in late winter or early spring.
The flowers are cuplike and nodding in green, pink, purple, red, white, and yellow hues. The foliage is dark green, deeply serrated, and leather-like.
Hellebores are suited to Zones 4 to 9, prefer moderate moisture, well-draining soil, and part to full shade. Mature heights are 12 to 24 inches.
Helleborus x orientalis Wedding Party® ‘Confetti Cake’ is a hybrid that displays generous double white blossoms with speckled burgundy throats and heights of 18 to 24 inches.
Clump-forming hostas (Hosta spp.) are ornamental foliage plants for part to full shade locations in Zones 2 to 8. They bloom at various times from early summer to fall, depending on the variety.
The leaves are texturally rich with prominent veining and robust colors, including green, blue-green, gold, yellow, cream, variegated, and white.
Bell-like blossoms are arranged along upright inflorescences and may be lavender, pink, purple, red, white, or yellow.
Ornamental Japanese forest grass, Hakonechloa macra, aka Hakone grass, grows in Zones 5 to 9 in moist, well-draining soil.
It prefers part shade but has a high tolerance for dark conditions, although variegated types have less distinctive coloring in very low light.
Growing from rhizomes, it has bamboo-like leaves and a mounding growth habit for a fountain-like presentation.
Bloom time is summer, but the greenish-yellow flowers are nondescript and often obscured by the foliage. Mature heights are generally 12 to 18 inches tall.
Japanese spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) is an evergreen ground cover for Zones 4 to 8 that thrives in part to full shade locations with moderate moisture and well-draining soil.
The foliage is dark green, and tiny spikes of white blossoms appear in the spring, on three- to four-inch tall plants.
Pachysandra plants spread via runners and this species is known to have aggressive tendencies, so check with your local agricultural extension office before planting it in your locale.
The species is classified as invasive in Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Washington, D.C.
Pachysandra is available from Perennial Farm Marketplace™ in four-inch pots via Amazon.
13. Lady Fern
Lady fern, Athyrium filix-femina, is a light green fern for Zones 4 to 9 that averages one to three feet tall in gardens, but wild specimens are generally between two and five feet.
It grows from rhizomes and is suited to moist, well-draining soil, and part to full shade.
The species has a clumping, upright growth habit and lance-shaped fronds that unfurl in the spring and die back with the first frost.
The ‘Lady in Red’ cultivar has red stems and the classic lacy fronds of the species, topping out at two to three feet. This cultivar is exceptionally cold hardy, and best suited to Zones 2 to 8.
Lady’s mantle, Alchemillamollis, is a clumping species for Zones 3 to 7 with a basal mound of scalloped, gray-green leaves and airy clusters of star-shaped chartreuse blossoms that seem to hover above the foliage.
Bloom time is early summer, but deadheading spent blooms may result in a second, less showy display late in the season.
Plants mature to heights of 12 to 24 inches, and while their preference is part shade to full sun, they tolerate full shade. Moist, well-draining conditions are best.
Lamium, Lamium maculatum, aka spotted deadnettle, is a ground cover for Zones 3 to 8, not to be mistaken for stinging nettle or false lamium.
The foliage is variegated green and silver and grows in a clumping, creeping fashion.
Flowers have petals resembling upper and lower lips in shades of pink, purple, or white. They bloom from late spring to early summer and occasionally through to fall.
Plants grow to low-profile heights of six to nine inches and prefer moist, well-draining conditions in part to full shade.
The variegated foliage does best with some sun to support the color variation.
Lily turf (Liriope muscari) is suited to cultivation in Zones 5 to 10.
It’s a clumping ground cover with a fountain-like display of strappy, grass-like foliage and spikes of white or purple flowers.
Bloom time is late summer to fall and mature heights are 12 to 18 inches.
The species thrives in part shade to full sun but can tolerate deep shade. Under low light conditions, it grows more slowly and has longer leaves.
Cultivated varieties may be even more tolerant of low light. New plants benefit from even moisture while they are becoming established. Once mature, they are drought tolerant and seldom need supplemental watering.
Mondo grass (Ophiopogon spp.) aka monkey grass, is an ornamental grass suited to Zones 5 to 11 – depending on the variety. It prefers full shade to part sun and moist, well-draining conditions.
Plants have an upright to arching form, clumping growth habit, and dark green or black, grasslike foliage, with heights of eight to 16 inches.
Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nana’ is hardy in Zones 6 to 11. It is a petite cultivar that tops out between four and six inches tall, and has a preference for part to full shade.
The foliage is green with prominent racemes of showy white summer blooms and metallic blue fall berries.
The New England Aster (Aster novae‐angliae) is an herbaceous wildflower for Zones 3 to 8 that prefers part shade to full sun, moderate moisture, and well-draining soil.
The daisy-like flowers are available in pink, purple, violet-blue, or white, depending on the cultivar.
Periwinkle (Vinca minor) aka creeping myrtle, is an evergreen ground cover for Zones 4 to 9 with trailing stems of dark green leaves and lavender-blue late spring to early summer flowers that resemble those of phlox.
Solomon’s seal, Polygonatum spp., has fleshy rhizomes and upright, mounded foliage that cascades gracefully.
The unbranched, arching stems have alternating green or variegated leaves, depending upon the cultivar. Greenish-yellow blossoms appear in the spring, and in autumn, blue-black berries complement the bright yellow leaves.
Suited to Zones 3 to 8, plants prefer partial to full shade with well-draining, moist to wet, fertile conditions but tolerate average and salty soil. Mature dimensions are 12 to 36 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide.
Variegated Solomon’s seal, Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum ‘Variegatum,’ has green leaves streaked with cream margins and produces white blossoms with green tips.
The variegated type is 24 to 36 inches tall with a spread of nine to 12 inches.
Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a vine for Zones 3 to 9 with hand-like or palmate green or variegated leaves, exceptional autumn color, and ornamental blue berries. The spring flowers are nondescript whitish-green.
And while it prefers part shade to full sun, Virginia creeper tolerates deep shade well.
Grow it in well-draining soil and provide moderate moisture, and the vines will grow between 30 and 50 feet long.
The species is aggressive and has the potential to become invasive, unless you give it a hard annual pruning.
When arranging plants, choose those with similar cultural requirements for sun, soil, and water.
Group them in odd numbers, like three or five, and place taller specimens behind shorter ones for optimal visual appeal and light exposure.
Choose variegated foliage and bright blooms to bring the illusion of light to the darkest areas of the landscape and create eye-catching new focal points.
Neither salt nor shade are impediments when you install suitable plants in property perimeter, buffer zone, and coastal gardens.
Are you a shade gardener with salt issues to contend with? Please share your thoughts in the comments section below.
If you found this article informative and want to read about more types of plants that tolerate saline soil and/or low light, we recommend the following:
