Many of us have at least a section of garden that is shady most of the time. Shade gardens can be bor-ring unless you spice them up with plants that have interesting colors, shapes, and textures. These hardy beauties are made for the shade. That is to say, these plants all thrive in shady spaces while adding color and interest. Pop a few of these into your shady space and it just might become your favorite part of the garden.
When planting your shade garden, be sure to include a variety of plants with different shapes, sizes, colors, and textures. Dark corners of the garden often go unnoticed, but if you intentionally fill up the space with plants that draw the eye and have visual interest, the shadiest part of your garden can become an eye-catching focal point!
Some of my very favorite gardens are shade gardens. When the summer sun gets so hot that it feels oppressive, it is a wonderful feeling to retreat to a cool, softly lit part of the garden full of lush, beautiful plants. Traditional Japanese gardens are just gorgeous, and they often incorporate shade into the design. For some serious shade garden inspiration, head over here to take a virtual tour of the Nitobe Memorial Garden at the University of British Columbia.
Hellebores have beautiful, delicate, bell-shaped flowers in the late winter and early spring, but many varieties also have very pleasing decorative foliage. Enjoy their beauty in the garden or cut the flowers and float them in a dish of water for a gorgeous table centerpiece. See more about hellebore growing and care here.
Geranium macrorrhizum (Big Root Geranium)
This geranium grows in large clumps of white or light pink flowers that bloom prolifically from spring until autumn. Cut back when the blooms begin to fade and watch even more appear. It also deters deer, so it’s a great choice if you have local deer who love to munch on your precious garden plants. Makes a great groundcover.
Hosta
Hostas are known for their large, attractive leaves that come in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and textures (I love the leaves so much that I captured their image in these DIY stepping stones). They produce small flowers in the summer as well but the foliage is the main event. Hostas are also edible! Learn how to cook and eat them in this article.
Lamprocapnos spectabilis (Bleeding Heart)
An old garden standby for a reason! The little chains of pink, heart-shaped flowers on this perennial are stunning in spring and early summer. The plant goes dormant after that and is not particularly interesting, but if you want spring interest in your shade garden, don’t skip this plant.
Astilbe
Astilbe have dark, dramatic foliage with jagged edges that create interest. In summertime a tower of pink-to-purple, feathery flower spikes will bloom and steal the show. A pretty way to attract beneficial pollinators to your shade garden.
Ajuga (Bugle)
Bees love the bright blue-to-purple flowers of this glossy, low-growing ground cover (see what other plants attract pollinators). Its foliage is also impressive, with dark leaves variegated with white or pink. A great filler plant!
Hakonechloa macra (Japanese Forestgrass)
This decorative grass has a gorgeous sculptural shape, and the bright greens and yellows of the variegated blades of grass bring some much needed vibrancy to a dark, shady part of the garden.
That covers shade gardens, but what about sunny gardens? Check out this post for the best sun-loving perennials.
More on Perennials here:
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
All week, we’re revisiting the most popular stories of 2025, including this one from July.
A shade garden is a green and contemplative refuge. It can also be a botanical calendar, with flowers signaling the change of seasons. Well-chosen perennials for shade provide texture and pattern, flowers, and sometimes even fruit. They offer an indispensable layer of interest alongside the architecture of shrubs and trees, and the seasonal excitement of shade-loving annuals. Perennials are plants that return every year after a dormant period and they usually bloom for a few weeks. Choosing perennials whose bloom-time is staggered over the growing season gives us that gift that gardeners, in particular, enjoy: anticipation. Our favorite perennials for shade work harder, though, and are about more than flowers—their foliage or form is interesting even when the plant is not flowering. Here are 13 of our favorites.
Foamflower, Tiarella cordifolia
Above: Foamflower thrives in pots or in-ground. Above: Foamflower creates frothy carpets of flowers in early spring.
Foamflower blooms in early spring, creating frothy pockets of brightness in the garden. This species of Tiarella propagates itself, establishing new plants from skinny surface-runners, making it a perfect naturalizer for shady path edges and woodland floors. When not in bloom, its maple-shaped leaves create a softly textured quilt. This Eastern native is hardy from USDA zones 4 (and possibly 3) to 9.
Doll’s eyes, Actaea pachypoda
Above: The graceful flowers of doll’s eyes are deliciously-scented
Perhaps one of the best-scented perennials for shade, doll’s eyes are also known as white baneberry, thanks to the plants’ Halloween-ready, toxic white fruit on blood-red stalks in late fall. But in spring, they are all sweetness, with lemon-scented white flowers. This woodland native relishes full shade and blooms in mid-spring above prettily toothed leaves. Doll’s eyes are hardy from zones 3 to 8.
Wake robin, Trillium species
Above: Woodland elegance—Trilliums in mid-spring.
The understated elegance of native Trilliums belongs to a woodland spring. Planted under deciduous trees in soil rich in leaf humus or compost, they bask in spring sunshine and shelter in early summer shade. They are especially effective planted in groups with companion plants that fill out when the Trilliums are dormant, from summer onwards. Different species have blooms that may be white, yellow, or red, with erect or nodding flowers, and most are hardy within zones 4 to 7.
Meadow rue, Thalictrum species
Above: The white flowers of native tall meadow rue in a pot on my Brooklyn terrace. Above: Meadow rue (native to Asia) has purple flowers.
When a family came to Dirt Queen NYC seeking a backyard makeover, they really just wanted one thing: to be able to use their yard. The existing “garden” was a patchy stretch of grass with garages on three sides. Now that their kids were older, the family no longer felt they needed a lawn for playtime. Instead they craved an adult space for hosting dinner parties and a dedicated firepit area, which might even entice their teens to hang out at home.
Jarema Osofsky and Adam Bertulli, co-founders of Dirt Queen NYC, took stock of the existing conditions. The family wanted to keep the existing trees, including some arborvitae that were nicely screening the neighbor’s garage and some Norway maples that were creating dense shade on one half of the garden. Bertulli and Osofsky saw an opportunity to give their clients the function they craved, carving out two distinct garden rooms in the small space, while also creating a dynamic pollinator garden.
Here’s how they did it.
Photography by Brett Wood, courtesy of Dirt Queen NYC.
Before
Above: The yard was nothing but balding grass, arborvitae, and a stand of Norway maples. One impactful move Bertulli and Osofsky made was asking the neighbors if they could paint the back walls of their garages the same color. Luckily, they agreed.
After
Above: From uninspired and useless to inviting and functional. Above: Native flowering shrubs are the backbone of the new garden. For the garden’s midlayer, Osofsky used Clethra summersweet, oak leaf hydrangeas, and Viburnum dentatum, which she notes provides really beautiful berries for birds.
For the many gardeners whose growing-spaces are either entirely or partly shaded, shade-loving shrubs offer an important, permanent layer of interest alongside perennials and beneath trees. In small gardens, shrubs can create a structural framework for the space, seasonal focal points, a living wall or partition, or even a harvestable crop for a less-than-sunny kitchen garden. While any list of shrubs for shade can include worthwhile and non-invasive introduced species, planting natives (in this case, to North America) contributes towards resilience and supports sustainable growing practices.
Our 13 favorite shrubs for shade span the year in terms of seasonal interest, from spring flowers to fall fruit.
American hazel (Corylus americana)
Above: A cluster of American hazelnuts in late summer.
Hazelnut, filbert, cobnut—whatever you call the fruit of this large shrub, it will be yours to harvest if you plant your Corylus in semi-shade. (While hazel will grow beautifully leafy in full shade, it will bear fewer nuts.) One of the earliest shrubs to bloom in pre-spring, American hazel has slender flower structures with a tiny, burgundy male flower poised above the pendant female catkins. American hazel is hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 9.
Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium and V. corymbosum)
Above: Blueberries on a container-grown shrub.
Highbush and lowbush blueberries have three seasons of serious interest: early spring flowers (an important food source for native bees), their famous summer fruit, and very vivid fall foliage. Blueberries require acidic soil—it’s non-negotiable—so if your garden’s in-ground soil tests near-neutral, they are better grown in containers, where you can adjust the pH more easily (personally, I use fresh—not spent—coffee grounds, mixed into the potting soil when planting.) Blueberries are hardy from USDA zones 3 (possibly 2, with protection) to 8.
Bottlebrush buckeye (Aesculus parviflora)
Above: The striking summer spires of bottlebrush buckeye.
Bottlebrush buckeye’s elegantly upright racemes of white flowers are like summer fireworks. Blooming in mid to late summer, this large shrub fills the flowering gap between spring’s profusion and fall’s fruit and foliage. Hardy from USDA zones 4 to 8, bottlebrush buckeye will thrive in part to full shade.
Canada rosebay, rhodora (Rhododendron canadense)
Above: Canada rosebay blooms in late spring and early summer.
In the wild, Canada rosebay, or rhodora (which is also the family name for all rhododendrons), flourishes in moist woodlands and at the edges of swamps and bogs. Its scented blooms appear in late spring to early summer. This is a shrub that needs plenty of water, and it also requires acidic soil. Canada rosebay grows in semi-shade or under the seasonal shade of deciduous trees. It is is very cold hardy, from USDA zones 2 to 6.
A digression for botanical poetry:
The Rhodora
– 1834, by Ralph Waldo Emerson
In May, when sea-winds pierced our solitudes,
I found the fresh Rhodora in the woods,
Spreading its leafless blooms in a damp nook,
To please the desert and the sluggish brook.
The purple petals fallen in the pool
Made the black water with their beauty gay;
Here might the red-bird come his plumes to cool,
And court the flower that cheapens his array.
Rhodora! if the sages ask thee why
This charm is wasted on the earth and sky,
Tell them, dear, that, if eyes were made for seeing,
Then beauty is its own excuse for Being;
Why thou wert there, O rival of the rose!
I never thought to ask; I never knew;
But in my simple ignorance suppose
The self-same power that brought me there, brought you.
Carolina allspice, strawberry bush, sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus and C. occidentalis)
Above: Calycanthus blooms from late spring through early summer.
Culinary herbs add freshness and flavor to our meals. Growing them at home means that a quick trip to the garden or to the pot at the front door can yield a handful of aromatic goodness. It is often assumed that herbs require full sun to thrive, but many herbs prefer to grow in shade, or at least in partial shade. These shade-loving herbs include plants native to regions as diverse as the Mediterranean, North America, and Southeast Asia. Some of them are deeply familiar, and others may be more surprising.
Here are 13 herbs for shade that are staples in my kitchen. (If you have a favorite shade herb that you don’t see here, let us know in the comments.)
It took me years to learn that basil appreciates shade where summers are very hot. It begins to make sense when you realize that Ocimum species are native to tropical Asia and Africa, which conjures leafy forests. While basil will grow in full sun (with adequate watering), in hot summer climates it thrives in either full shade, afternoon shade, or dappled shade. The most shade-loving basils in my experience are purple, Thai, and Greek, in that order. Lemon basil also likes shade, while sweet (so-called Italian) basil will take more sun. Purple basil relishes shade, where it is as ornamental as it is delicious. During this very hot July my Thai basil planted in full sun is tall and full of flowers, but wilts twice a day, while the pot in full shade has remained more compact, is bushy with fragrant leaves, and has not bloomed yet; plus, it does not require double watering.
Mint
Above: This mint is Mentha spicata.
The mint we buy in grocery stores is Mentha spicata, a semi-aquatic perennial native to Eurasia and Southwest Asia. With a tendency to proliferate when planted in-ground, contained in a (large) pot it loses its invasive potential. This mint thrives in shade, where it will also guzzle less water than if it is planted in sun. Harvest it by pinching or cutting it back to another set of leaves, and water it deeply, rather than sprinkling the surface of the soil.
Coriander, or Cilantro
Above: Bolting ain’t bad—cilantro’s flowers turn to delicious coriander seeds.
The herb cilantro (Coriandrum sativum, native to Southern Europe and the Mediterranean) is also known as coriander in English, while in the United States, the seeds are always called coriander. Grown in shade, cilantro is slow to bolt and you will be harvesting its succulent leaves for longer than from a plant in full sun. When it does bloom, the pollinated flowers form citrus-forward seeds, which are an ephemeral delicacy while still green.
Parsley
Above: Parsley dislikes humid heat and will appreciate shade.
Parsley, another soft herb, will flourish in half a day of shade or in high, bright shade. Whether it’s curly or flat-leaf, Petroselinum crispum, native to Europe and parts of the the Mediterranean, will be slower to bolt when shaded.
Gov. Gavin Newsom has vetoed a bill that aimed to make it easier for farmworkers to make a workers’ compensation claim for heat illness.
SB 1299 would have changed the burden of proof in workers’ compensation claims when a farmworker develops a heat-related injury after laboring outdoors for an employer who fails to comply with the state’s heat safety standards. Instead of the farmworker having to prove the injury occurred on the job, as is typical in workers’ compensation cases, it would have been the employer’s responsibility to prove the illness was not work-related.
Under the bill’s provisions, if an employer failed to comply with the rules, any resulting heat-related injury to an employee would be “presumed to arise out of and in the course of employment.” It would have created a “rebuttable presumption,” which is more commonly used for law enforcement officers and firefighters who develop certain injuries that could arise from the risks inherent to their jobs.
In a veto message issued Saturday, Newsom said there is “no doubt” that California farmworkers need strong protections from the risk of heat-related illness, especially as climate change drives an increase in extreme temperatures.
“However, the creation of a heat-illness presumption in the workers’ compensation system is not an effective way to accomplish this goal,” he said. Newsom said heat safety rules are currently enforced by the California Division of Occupational Safety and Health, known as Cal/OSHA, which is better equipped to enforce those worker protections.
Newsom also noted that Cal/OSHA is establishing an agricultural unit that specializes in worker protections and hazards found at agricultural worksites, and opening new district office locations in Fresno, Santa Barbara and Riverside.
“This dedicated unit will increase Cal/OSHA’s reach to farmworker communities throughout the Central Valley, where the largest number of farmworkers and their families reside,” Newsom said.
The legislation came as many farmworkers continue to labor in unsafe conditions and Cal/OSHA confronts a severe staffing shortage that is hampering its ability to enforce heat regulations for outdoor workers.
First enacted in 2005, the state’s heat illness prevention rules require employers to provide outdoor workers with fresh water, access to shade at 80 degrees and warmer, and cool-down breaks whenever a worker requests one. Employers must also maintain a heat illness prevention plan with effective training for supervisors to recognize the signs and symptoms of heat illness.
But nearly two decades after the rules were first enacted, ensuring compliance has remained challenging.
In 2009 and 2012, the United Farm Workers sued Cal/OSHA, accusing the agency of failing to enforce the regulations.
A 2022 study by the UC Merced Community and Labor Center found many farmworkers were still laboring without the protections. Of more than 1,200 workers surveyed, 43% reported their employers had not provided a heat illness prevention plan and 15% said they had not received heat illness prevention training.
The bill’s author, Sen. Dave Cortese (D-San José), previously described SB 1299 as a “creative work-around” that was “taking the tools that we do have available and trying to cobble together an approach that will hopefully spur greater compliance.”
“The employers hate the workers’ comp presumptions so much that it makes me feel like it might actually work,” Cortese previously told The Times. “The avoidance factor is so high with them that they’ll say, ‘My God, it’s actually easier for us to provide shade and water than to have to deal with a proliferation of expedited workers’ comp claims.’”
“We’re trying to take something that they view as kind of a thorn in their side and use it as a disincentive for the kind of behavior we’re seeing,” he said.
The UFW backed SB 1299.
“Despite the Governor’s veto of SB 1299, the UFW will continue to work to save farm worker lives,” UFW President Teresa Romero said in a statement Saturday.
Opponents of the bill, including the California Chamber of Commerce and the California Farm Bureau, acknowledged the importance of protecting farmworkers from heat illness, but had argued the issue should not be addressed through the workers’ compensation system.
This article is part of The Times’ equity reporting initiative,funded by the James Irvine Foundation, exploring the challenges facing low-income workers and the efforts being made to addressCalifornia’s economic divide.
Just because you have giant oak trees in the front or the neighbour’s back garage creating an overcast in your backyard doesn’t mean you can’t have some nice greenery. If you’re struggling with growing a lawn in shade, try one of these alternatives instead.
Shade is a gardener’s worst enemy. More often than not, plants want full or partial sun. Even the word shade tolerant is misleading since the plants will not typically thrive in the shade…only tolerate it.
Over the years, I’ve battled many shady areas in my garden. I turned the front yard of my previous house into a shady haven, complete with many plants, a bench, and a fountain.
I’ve also constructed a stacked vertical garden bed to maximize the one sliver of full sun so that I could grow more vegetables.
In my new house, I’m battling some shady lawn areas myself. The key here is that I’m working with the shade, not against it. And you can, too!
In this post ahead…
My lawn struggling in the shade earlier this year.
Consider Lawn Alternatives
For anyone who is willing to listen, I’ve been gushing about wildflower lawns. I recently put one in the front yard at my house, and it’s been one of my best decisions ever.
I have some shady spots in my wildflower lawn, primarily along the fence where it blocked the sunlight from streaming in.
In those areas, I had about a third of the germination compared to sunnier spots.
This was a lot better than my backyard. In my backyard, I used a bee alternative lawn mix, and it didn’t grow one bit in the shade.
So the wildflowers get that leg up. I supplemented it with a shade lawn blend to help fill in those spaces, and it worked wonderfully.
Would you believe me if I told you I’ve NEVER watered my wildflower lawn?
Work With What You Have
I often tell people to work with what they have rather than against it. For many, shade is something they can’t control due to large trees or buildings.
While you may want a lawn, the space may just not be able to give you that. You could have a struggling lawn, or you could change it into something else that thrives in the shade and looks infinitely better than patchy grass.
I turned my front yard into a spring bulb lawn and wildflower lawn. Here, the wildflowers just started to germinate.
Try a Mossy Approach
One such way to change your mindset is to think of different ways to get a “green carpet” in your yard.
If you live in a climate where moss grows well, I highly recommend you work with the moss in your yard to give you some greenery.
Take some flat stone and lay them down, encouraging the moss to go around them. It will help with the drainage in the area, and keep the area green and beautiful year-round. Plus, the ground will be treadable.
This is the Nitobe Memorial Garden at UBC, where they have embraced the moss for a beautiful soft carpet look.
Shade Tolerant Ground Covers
There are many ground cover plants that will happily take over a lawn, even those in a shady area. Head to your garden centre and they should have a groundcover and a shade section for you to browse.
Here are a few shade-tolerant ground covers to keep an eye out for:
Creeping Jenny—Lysimachia nummularia
Corsican Mint—Mentha requienii
Redwood sorrel—Oxalis oregana
Creeping phlox—Phlox stolonifera
Golden Japanese Stonecrop—Sedum makinio ‘Ogon’
Kenilworth Ivy—Cymbalaria muralis
Alpine Geranium—Erodium
Sweet Woodruff—Galium odoratum
Japanese pachysandra—Pachysandra terminalis
Ostrich fern—Matteuccia struthiopteris
Creeping juniper—Juniperus horizontalis
Saxifraga ‘primuloides’
‘Georgia Blue’ Speedwell—Veronica umbrosa
Overall, think outside of the box. Once you let go of what you think a traditional lawn should look like, it opens up a whole world of landscaping possibilities. A shady lawn doesn’t have to be a patchy, dry landscape.
You can add all kinds of colours using groundcovers.
FAQ About Growing a Lawn in Shade
What is the best grass for shady areas?
Look specifically for shade blends. Some grasses are more shade tolerant than others, such as hard fescue and zoysia. Keep in mind that even with a shade blend, you can expect this area of your lawn to not be as full and dense as other areas.
What is the best month to put down grass seed?
The best time of year to plant grass seed is in the fall. You’ll want to do it a month or so ahead of the frost since the current conditions will encourage root growth rather than top growth. This will set you up with a strong lawn the following spring.
I planted my lawn in early spring, since we had a warmer than usual spring, and so I could rely on the rain and moisture ahead of the summer season.
What is the best grass for under trees?
Many trees will take up all the nutrients and moisture from the soil, as well as shading the area below. This means that most grass beneath these trees ends up short and thin.
For this reason, it’s better to plant something either than grass below the trees. Consider shade-tolerant ground covers or moss instead.
I planted spring bulbs under my oak trees at my rental house to help spruce up the patchy lawn.
Let me know what you end up trying for your shady lawn in the comments below!
One way to get people thinking, when it comes to the environment, is to offer beauty, and this is what Tom Massey and the architect Je Ahn have done on the Water Aid garden at the Chelsea Flower Show. Instead of a 3-dimensional check list reminding you how to be a good citizen, they have made a magical space that also happens to be fully functional on an environmental level. This is the best kind of garden design; it is subtle and inviting.
Rainwater is the theme, and it’s a good one, with many of us experiencing too much, too little or, increasingly, both in any given year. Let’s look at some of the garden’s ideas on rainwater as a resource, rather than just a by-product of weather:
Photography by Jim Powell for Gardenista, unless otherwise noted.
1. Your roof can be a sponge.
Above: Rusted spiral cladding mimics water going down a drain, on a somehow lightweight structure by Je Ahn of Studio Weave. Like plant containers with drainage, the haze around the top is flowers.
The Water Aid garden commands the biggest plot on the show ground, but it also grew considerably when Je Ahn’s water harvesting structure went up, creating an extra planting plane for Tom Massey’s rooftop garden. The structure is huge but graceful, irrigating the plants, filtering rainwater and using gravity to pull it down for storage underground. It also provides permanent shade.
2. Mimic the wider landscape.
Above: Iris sibirica ‘Perry’s Blue’ and Trollius ‘Cheddar’, plants that would naturally live in meadows that have permanent moisture and are occasionally flooded.
Respecting the lay of the land, and exaggerating natural dips and contours by shaping them into swales, gives rainwater somewhere to go. A flattened garden, especially one that is bone dry, is just another hard plane that adds water run-off to all the rest. Run-off leads to overflowing sewage plants, and washes nutrients (and chemicals) off land, polluting rivers. On the other hand, variations in topography bring a variety of moisture levels, and a greater choice of plants.
3. Make a flyover.
Above: A modular boardwalk is made with panels of slatted wood and rusted metal grills that connect with the floating garden plane above. Planting at ground level is mainly green and rust, with clear blue irises ringing out.
Building ponds and improving streams is another way of embracing the fact of rainwater, rather than fretting about fluctuating swamp conditions. Elevate this, and yourself, with a simple means of getting across; via a boardwalk or bridge. Straight lines and right angles flatter wilder planting that loves the conditions.
Make sure your storage capacity isn’t full when rain is predicted; use overflow pipes and backup storage, or “leaky” water butts that slowly release water into the ground, since terrain that is not rock hard has better absorbing qualities.
5. Choose trees.
Above: Pollution-tolerant and soil-cleaning alder (this one is Alnus glutinosa ‘Laciniata’) at left, with another British native, field maple (Acer campestre) at right. Pinus mugo, center, has an evergreen presence.
This week, as the Chelsea Flower Show goes viral on every media outlet, we take a look at Tom Stuart-Smith, the comeback—after an absence of 14 years. A super-heavyweight of British garden design, Stuart-Smith’s show resumé describes his work as combining “naturalism with modernity, and built forms with romantic planting,” before reminding us that one of his clients was HM the Queen. And just to recap: He has now won nine gold medals at Chelsea, including three Best in Show. Stuart-Smith’s gardens caused such a stir in the 1990s that their legacy is still very much with us: water-filled tanks of Corten steel, peeling river birch, cloud pruning, and strongly disciplined color all come to mind.
Stuart-Smith has implied during his long absence that he didn’t have a compelling reason to do another garden on Main Avenue. He was lured by Project Giving Back, a private funding collective (who last year bagged the reluctant star Cleve West). One of PGB’s conditions for funding—that a show garden must be permanently re-sited afterwards in a place where it can do good—is also part of its attraction to garden designers. They make a garden for a charity of their choice, then Chelsea’s publicity machine puts it under a giant spotlight. Tom Stuart-Smith’s show garden for the National Garden Scheme is about the joy of garden visiting and garden making. It’s that simple.
Photography for Gardenista by Jim Powell.
Above: Seasonal favorites, foxgloves and cow parsley make the grade on Tom Stuart-Smith’s Chelsea garden.
The National Garden Scheme is a staple of summer for British gardeners, allowing them to look in other people’s backyards, while having a bit of tea and cake—all for a nominal fee. Since this is a transaction that takes places all over the British Isles, from spring until autumn, the NGS makes a lot of money, which is donated to nursing and health charities. It is also inherently “good for you” to be out in a garden, gazing at plants and listening to birds singing, so the benefits are exponential.
Stuart-Smith is a reliable purveyor of unusual plants in his gardens but also, the very, very familiar, which are the elements that will be reproduced all over the world: towering white foxgloves in a sea of cow parsley (Anthriscus sylvestris), almost shockingly “common” since it’s found on every wayside and, now that the Royal Parks allow unmowed areas, in every park.
Above: A stone sink is filled with rain water, which works its way down from the roof (of oak shingles), funneled into a terracotta pipe and then fed from the bottom. It is surrounded by Farfugium giganteum.
Since we are talking about garden visiting, this is a good one to walk on, should you be so lucky; it is lightly shaded by three multi-stemmed hazels, which give an idea of coppicing, a practice which only real gardeners understand the value of, since hazel re-sprouts after cutting down almost to the ground, providing useful straight poles.
On describing his last woodland garden for Chelsea, Stuart-Smith said that he uses repeats of species, focusing on texture and form, over color. This still rings true, and in the 2024 garden he takes his restricted palette to the point of monochrome, and a slightly chilly, detached air. But if you look, and then look again, the garden reveals itself. The plant basics haven’t changed much either, with iris, umbellifers, astrantia and hardy geraniums also making a comeback.
If you’re in a climate with intense summer sun, you may want to provide shade during the hottest months. This is similar to applying “sunscreen” on your plants. If you’re wondering how to create shade in your garden, this blog post gives ideas for some practical ways to create shade in your garden.
Adding shade to a hot summer garden can help your garden survive and thrive. This article also covers which vegetables need shade and which can grow in full sun. Finally, we will cover what type of shade cloth is best and other ways to add shade to your garden. So let’s get to it – all about adding shade to the garden.
If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Why is it important to add shade in hot summer climates?
1. Adding shade protects plants from the scorching sun.
Sunscald on a pepper
The morning sun provides plenty of energy through photosynthesis without the excessive heat stress of prolonged all-day sun exposure.
Sunscald on a tomato
In sweltering heat, direct sunlight can cause wilting, sunburn, and even death in some plants. Most vegetables are stressed when temperatures are above 90℉ (32.2°C). Shade keeps the direct sun off foliage; the shaded area can be about 10℉ (6°C) cooler than areas without shade.
Winter squash wilted from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
2. Adding shade conserves water.
A shaded garden helps retain moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Providing shade for plants can lower the amount of moisture loss through transpiration (evaporation of water from plant leaves).
Wilted summer squash from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
3. Adding shade creates a comfortable outdoor space.
A well-shaded garden benefits plants and makes spending time in the garden more enjoyable. Spending time in your garden daily is essential, and the shade benefits the gardener and the garden.
When should you add shade to your summer garden?
The best time to set up your shade cloth is when temperatures consistently climb above 90°F (32.2°C), and keep it on until temperatures get below that. At this point, most plants tend to enter a dormancy-like state to conserve water and protect themselves from heat stress.
For me, in the low desert of Arizona, this usually means using shade cloth from mid-May to early October.
A tip to remember: Although summer gardens in hot climates need shade in the hottest months of the year, abundant sunshine is an advantage during cooler months. Because most fall and winter gardens need full sun, it’s best to add temporary (not permanent) shade to the garden for the hottest months of the year.
Which vegetables grow best with afternoon shade?
When planning your vegetable garden, it’s important to take into account each plant’s sunlight preferences to ensure a thriving and productive garden. While all vegetables can benefit from some afternoon shade in hot summer climates, certain plants are particularly sensitive to the sun’s intense rays and should be given extra shade if you live in a hot climate.
Many vegetables do not like the extreme heat of an Arizona (or other hot climate) summer. Provide shade for the listed crops as temperatures begin to heat up to extend the harvest. Adding shade can extend the growing season for certain crops allowing them to produce for a longer period, even when temperatures begin to climb.
Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight. However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather.
Gardening in a hot climate means learning to work with sunlight effectively. “Full-sun” directions for other locations may not apply in Arizona’s low desert or other hot climates. Providing shade for your sun-sensitive veggies is essential, and there are many creative ways to do that. Here are a few of my favorite methods:
1. Create shade in the garden with a thoughtful garden design
Notice which areas in your yard receive morning sun and afternoon shade naturally. These spots are prime real estate for any plants, but especially a summer garden. Use these areas in your garden for vegetables that need shade. South or west-facing parts of your yard will probably need added shade.
2. Create shade in the garden with shade cloth
If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages in shade cloth allows you to customize the light that reaches your garden.
Using a shade cloth is a game-changer for me. It’s an easy, adjustable solution to protect my delicate veggies from scorching sunrays while allowing enough sunlight to grow.
Which color shade cloth should I use?
When choosing a shade cloth for your garden, consider the temperature differences between night and day as well as the average temperature in your area to determine which color is best suited for your needs.
White shade clothreflects light & heat and cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden.
Aluminet shade clothreflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night.
If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.
How far away should the shade cloth be from plants?
Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants.
What is the best way to attach shade cloth?
Attach shade cloth to existing trellises with zip ties or carabiner clips. At the end of the season, removing the clips, rolling up the shade cloth, and storing it away is simple. When the summer heat comes again, re-attach the shade cloth.
3. Create shade in the garden with sunflowers
Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety can offer shade to surrounding plants.
Plant sunflowers on the west or south side of the garden for shade. Once grown in a garden, they often reseed and pop up year after year. Unwanted volunteers are easy to pull out.
At the end of the season, cut off the stem at the base of the dirt rather than pulling out the entire root system. The remaining root will decompose and add organic matter to the area. Sunflowers can be planted in the low desert of Arizona from February through July.
4. Create shade in the garden with umbrellas
Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips over and damages surrounding plants.
5. Create shade in the garden with plants
Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade.
Vining vegetables can be grown over artichoke crowns that go dormant during hot summers to protect them from the intense heat that might damage the crowns. Grow heat-loving plants on the south or west-facing trellises that shade other plants.
Other ideas for adding shade:
Here are some pictures I took from my previous gardens or other gardens that have added shade. You may get some ideas or inspiration to implement in your own garden.
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