Tag: seed starting

How to Make a Little Seed Library in Your Community – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

The love of gardening begins with a seed. Through a seed library, you can encourage others in your neighbourhood to find this love and spread some seedling joy. Rising in popularity, seed libraries have become community hubs to share seeds and extras supplies so everyone can have blooming, thriving gardens. Here’s how to find one in your neighbourhood or start one of your very own!

I’m obsessed with my neighbourhood. It’s been the perfect place to raise my kiddo, between his after-school centre to the lake down the road for daily walks. I know my neighbours well, making wreaths with them during the holidays and talking plants in the summer.

The reason it’s so great is the sense of community here. No one hesitates to buy from the local kid’s lemonade stand or lend out a garden tool if someone needs to borrow it. While I love the community gardens, bulletins, and parks, one of the things I adore the most are seed libraries. They are the combination of two of my favourite things…community and the garden!

Seed libraries are one of the many projects in my upcoming book, The Regenerative Garden. Inside the book, I include many sustainable practices and concepts to employ in the garden as well as over 80 projects and designs to help you implement the ideas.

I dedicated a whole chapter to building community, including seed libraries! Be sure to check it out to see many, many more interesting projects to implement in your garden.

This post will cover…

Seed libraries can be extremely simple, becoming part of your garden.

What is a Seed Library?

Much like Little Free Libraries, seed libraries are tiny places throughout the community where people can find free items. Inside, local members of the community share seeds either purchased in excess or gathered from seeds in their own garden. You can also find easily accessible seedlings, plants, cuttings, and seed-starting supplies all for free.

Seed libraries have a host of benefits. They’re an opportunity to share skills and knowledge with neighbours, bring greater food security, and provide environmental benefits.

I love seeing seeds that come from someone’s own garden best, as you know they come from a plant that has already grown in your microclimate. It’s a sure sign of success for your own garden!

A local seed library can also share heirloom seeds that may be difficult to come by otherwise. These are such special seeds, and sharing them with the community is a treat.

In my neighbourhood, the Zucchini Racer committee donates zucchini seeds to all the community libraries so that community members can grow their own racer for the Fall Fair. It’s something Kiddo and I love to partake in together.

In some areas, the seed library switches to a little free book library in winter that focuses on gardening and nature. This makes them a useful pitstop and gardening hub year-round.

Kiddo ready for zucchini racing.

How to Find a Seed Library Near Me

The boxes are not large and you can find them in the most surprising of places. Most are run by a member of the community in front of their front yard. Others can be found inside community gardens, by community centres, or churches.

A great place to start is actually by searching for a Little Free Library. These tend to be easier to find and are even listed on Google Maps sometimes. Some have accompanying seed libraries or may have seeds and other free items in addition to books.

Some libraries even have seed lending programs. A local horticultural group or Facebook group may also be a good resource when seeking out a seed library near you.

Your best bet? Take a walk through the neighbourhood. Once you are looking for something, you begin to see it everywhere! And if you can’t find one, maybe it’s time to start one yourself.

Some seed libraries are even listed on Google Maps.

How to Make Your Own Seed Library

Besides making the actual seed library, there are a few main components you may not have considered, including managing the space and getting community members to engage.

Build

I have seen seed libraries made of all kinds of materials. They can look similar to a Little Free Library, where they become an art project in itself, or can be as simple as a plastic container on a post. Most are made from recycled or found materials like cabinets or old public newspaper boxes.

Since the structure will be outside, you need to make sure it stays nice and dry inside and can withstand the elements. A weatherproof, sloped roof will ensure that water runs off rather than in. Outdoor paint protects the walls as well. You also want to make sure the door to where the seeds are kept is able to shut securely.

Make sure the library is in an easily accessible public space. You should also check with local bylaws that you’re allowed to build such a structure.

Then, list the location online so that people can search for and find it.

Check your local bylaws before building a seed library.

Stock

Once the structure is ready, it’s time to fill it full of seeds. When first starting, you can reach out to local seed companies for stock that they will need to redistribute to the community before it expires.

Besides seeds, include information on how to plant seeds, tend plants, and save seeds. Stock the shelves with empty seed or coin envelopes and pens. Seed envelopes can also be used to divide seed packages into smaller portions, so everyone takes only what they need.

Manage

A person or a group needs to manage the seed library. Checking on it frequently ensures that there is no weather damage to the structure, the seeds haven’t expired, and whether there needs to be a call out for more materials.

For the most part, these things tend to run fine all on their own from the community members. People are happy to donate their extra seeds and supplies so that fellow gardeners can enjoy what they no longer need.

Encouraging the community to keep the seeds flowing by giving and receiving will refresh the supply enough to circulate plenty of seeds. For all donated seeds, make sure to have a sign encouraging the rules for labelling and providing growing info.

Add some instructions to your seed library to keep management easy.

Educate

Seed libraries are great places for beginner gardeners to start exploring their green thumb. Make sure there are also educational resources in the seed library to encourage successful seed starting.

It’s also a good idea to manage expectations for the seed library. Germination rates will not be as good as they would be if the seed packages had been recently collected and stored in a cool, dry location.

The seed-sharing library will not be an ideal climate for long-term storage; many seeds will come from seed companies that are donating old stock, and community members may donate seeds past their prime.

Make a note of what people can expect from the seeds to curb expectations.

Frequently Asked Questions About Making a Seed Library

What is the purpose of a seed library?

Seed libraries help to foster community relationships and encourage the love of gardening. They also exist to share heirloom seeds that work well in certain microclimates and protect food security for many people by growing their own food.

Having one in the community is a great place to connect beginner gardeners with experienced gardeners and to get the conversation around gardening going.

Are seed libraries legal?

There are many rules and laws guarding the exchange of seeds. Seed libraries enter into a bit of a legal grey area. Most commercial seeds are patented hybridized or GMO seeds. Under the law, farmers cannot save and replant seeds and must buy ones every year.

However, with seed libraries, seeds are not being sold; instead, they are given free to help foster community and the love of gardening. While not completely exempt from seed laws, seed libraries embrace a giving spirit and are usually not a problem in most states and provinces. Be sure to check local bylaws for rules regarding structures such as farm stands.

With all this in mind, I know you’ll create an amazing seed-sharing library for your community to enjoy. If you do set one up, drop it in the comments down below. Someone from your town or city may very well see it!

More Community Building Projects

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

February 22, 2026
From Seed to Sunshine: How to Grow Sunflowers – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

With their iconic vibrant petals and reputation for hardiness, it’s no wonder sunflowers are one of the best selling flowers year after year. These easy to grow plants come in numerous varieties depending on what colours and sizes you need for your garden or arrangements. If you’re ready to add this staple to your summer garden, this post covers everything you need to learn about how to grow sunflowers.

Sunflowers just might be the perfect low-maintenance yet eye catching addition to your garden. These striking plants are a staple, and they’re easy to grow.

You’ll find sunflowers at the florist stand of your local farmers market and lining fences in your neighbourhood during the heat of summer into the early fall.

While the bright yellow flowers of the common sunflower (or Helianthus annuus) are classic, different variations can add contrasting colours to your garden. You can even grow a variety of sizes, making them a great choice for arrangements!

Here’s what I’ll be talking about today…

This giant sunflower was a Mother’s Day gift from Kiddo, who was approximately 5 in this photo!

Meet the Sunflower

Native to North America, sunflowers are best known for their vibrant yellow petals, which resemble rays of sunshine.

Besides their decorative function, sunflowers can be used to increase the production of other crops, such as corn and squash, in a method similar to the Three Sisters’. This is a method of companion planting that indigenous people of North America have been doing for thousands of years.

When it comes to learning how to grow sunflowers, there are two types you should know: single-stem and branching.

Single-stem or non-branched sunflowers are recognizable by their long, straight stems, which make them useful for floral arrangements. These plants produce one flower per seed, and the sizes can vary depending on how far apart they are planted. Species of single-stem sunflowers include the Marley and Procut Bicolour varieties, as well as the Sunrich Series.

Large sunflowers tend to be single stem.

Branching sunflowers, which include the Chocolate, Greenburst, and Starburst Panache varieties, produce more flowers over a longer period of time, with multiple stems in a more bushy growth pattern. As a result, they require more room to grow.

There are also some species of perennial sunflowers.

If you are hoping for a garden that doesn’t require planting each year, these would be a great option. Though smaller than the large yellow blooms you’re used to, perennial sunflowers can still add a pop of brightness to your low-maintenance garden.

Branching sunflowers have many off-shoots, as you can see in this picture.

How to Grow Sunflowers

Whether you’re hoping to add a festive touch to an already established garden or sowing your first seeds, their beauty and hardiness make sunflowers a great choice. If you’re ready to get planting, this grow guide has everything you need to know.

This collage was one of the very first photos I shared on Garden Therapy 15 years ago!

When and Where to Plant Sunflowers

Though sunflowers are typically associated with the late summer and early fall, they can be planted in the spring as soon as the weather warms up and frost is no longer a concern.

I prefer to get my sunflowers started inside due to the fickle nature of spring in Canada and the abundance of slugs in my ecosystem. If you’re doing the same, plant your seeds 2-3 weeks before you plan to transplant them into the garden. You’ll know they’re ready to be moved outside, when your sprouts are 3-5 inches tall.

You can also plant your seeds directly in your garden. I find that when I directly seed them, either the birds eat the seeds or the slugs eat the sprouts. So make sure to protect them with netting or a cloche until they are about five inches tall.

Whether you’re planting inside or outside, make sure to fully cover your seeds with soil, as sunflowers (ironically) sprout in the dark.

Sunflowers don’t require any special soil, so whatever garden or potting soil you’ve got will do.

Sunflower stalks typically grow thick enough that they don’t need support, unless they’re not getting enough sun.

Light

As the name suggests, sunflowers need plenty of light. In order to thrive, they require at least 8 hours of direct sunlight. That shady spot next to your fence is not the place to plant these light-loving flowers.

If sunflowers don’t get enough sun, they become leggy and weak, being more likely to snap.

Water

Sunflowers require the most water after they’re first planted, so water your sprouts often to keep the soil damp.

After your sunflowers are established, they are considered a low-maintenance, drought-resistant plant. Water them regularly, but don’t worry if the soil dries out between waterings. During intense heat, they may need some extra moisture.

This teddy bear sunflower was in my GardenTrends seed collection.

Pruning

If you’re growing single-stem sunflowers, there is no need to worry about pruning.

For branching varieties, I recommend pinching your plants back to 4 leaves once they grow to be 12-18 inches. If you’re harvesting your sunflowers, cutting the blooms from the base of the stem can also help encourage new growth.

When the seeds are fully ripe, they begin to loosen from the head. You can cut the sunflower and save the seeds for next year.

Common Pests and Diseases

Your sunflowers are most vulnerable in the early stages of germination. This is one reason to consider starting the seeds indoors and transplanting them into your garden.

However, if you’ve opted to plant your seeds directly in the ground, covering the sprouts can help protect them from birds, deer, and other animals. I like to use lightweight netting or cloche, but any sort of chicken wire or fencing will do the trick.

I also recommend changing where you plant your sunflowers each year to help prevent disease.

Once grown and gone to seed, sunflowers can be a great food source for pollinators.

How to Grow Sunflowers in Containers

Planting sunflowers in pots can be a great option if you have limited outdoor space.

Many varieties will grow well in a container or bag as long as it has drainage holes. Just keep in mind these sunflowers will be smaller than those planted directly in the ground.

Look for shorter dwarf varieties such as this blend from West Coast Seeds.

Make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the mature sunflower, even when it’s a dwarf variety.

How to Harvest Sunflowers

If you’re growing sunflowers in hopes of decorating your kitchen table, I highly suggest choosing a pollen-free variety to save yourself the cleanup and avoid ruining that new pastel tablecloth.

You can harvest your sunflowers as soon as the first petals start to unfurl. To extend the life of your sunflowers without adding any chemical preservatives, make sure to remove the leaves from the stem, leaving only the top leaf.

Your beautiful sunflowers will last about a week in a vase. Keep in mind that a warm environment will speed up the flower’s opening. If you’re saving them for a specific occasion, you can place them in a cooler area of your home to slow down the blooming process.

Place your sunflowers away from sunlight and heat to prolong their vase life.

FAQs About Growing Sunflowers

Do sunflowers really track the sun?

While sunflowers do respond to light, they don’t move in the way you’re probably picturing. In other words, their heads do not rotate throughout the day along with the sun.

Contrary to popular belief, sunflowers only respond to light before they flower. During this stage, more growth occurs on the sunniest side of the stem, causing the flower to eventually tilt to one side, usually east.

How far apart do you plant sunflowers?

Spacing your seeds correctly is an important part of learning how to grow sunflowers. For branching sunflowers, 18-24 inches is the ideal space between seeds, as these types of sunflowers grow large quite quickly.

The spacing of single-stem sunflowers is up to you, as you can control the size of your sunflower blooms by changing the spacing of seeds. I find leaving 4-6 inches of space between seeds gives me the perfect flowers for bouquets. If you’re hoping for larger sunflowers, just space your seeds out more.

What is a good sunflower germination temperature?

Sunflower seeds like warm soil temperatures of about 21-25℃ for optimal growth. Make sure to wait until the weather has warmed and the overnight frost has passed. If you live in a cooler climate like I do, you may want to consider starting your seeds inside.

How long should it take for a sunflower to grow?

Once your seeds are in the ground or a pot, it won’t take long for them to start growing. You’ll likely notice sprouts poking through in just a few days.

From there, depending on the variety, your sunflowers will start blooming 2-3 months later. Some types of sunflowers take up to 110 days to grow flowers.

More Flowers to Grow From Seed

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

July 29, 2024
How to Germinate Seeds: 4 Steps to Master Germination – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
It all begins with a seed. The very first step to having a lush garden begins with successfully learning how to germinate seeds. When you’ve got all the right conditions in place, germinating seeds is actually quite easy! Here’s what you need to know.

Spring is such a giddy season for gardeners. Even before Mother Nature is ready for us, we can get a head start inside by starting seeds.

But have you ever potted up a whole bunch of seeds only to have a few—or even NO—seeds actually sprout?

Germination is when a seed sprouts, and while it is fairly easy, you still need to ensure you have the four growing conditions cemented in place to have a tray full of successfully germinated seeds.

This post exclusively covers how to germinate seeds. For a full guide on how to start seeds, including containers, growing conditions, and transplanting tips, head to my seed starting 101 post.

Let’s get into germinating seeds!

All plants have different number of days until germination occurs. So, if it’s been a week, don’t lose faith!

How to Germinate Seeds

These are the four conditions you must consider if you want to germinate seeds. Get them all right, and you’ll have seeds sprouting galore.

1. Soil

Moisture is a critical part of the germination process, and good-quality soil is needed to keep things moist but not soggy.

In most cases, regular potting soil will work fine for your seeds. But if you struggle to get seeds to germinate or have plenty of seeds to start, it’s worthwhile to invest in or make a seed-starting soil mixture.

A seed starting mix is sterile and offers balanced moisture retention and drainage. It also has fine particles that allow seedlings to root easily.

Seed starting soil doesn’t require any additional fertilizer or nutrients, as the seed will have everything needed for germination. But once the seedling has developed its “true leaves,” it’s time to move it into a transplant soil mix, which will have more nutrients.

You can find both my seed starting and my transplant mix soil recipes in this post.

Your seed starting soil should be able to retain moisture while also not getting soggy.

2. Moisture

Seedlings need plenty of moisture to germinate. Even plants that will one day be drought tolerant are very delicate when young and will die off quickly if they dry out.

Check your moisture levels daily, and always start off with damp soil before planting seeds. Water the seedlings from the bottom to prevent disrupting them.

A plastic dome acts as a mini greenhouse and is very efficient at keeping up humidity levels for seedlings. Most seed starting trays come with a plastic lid, but you can easily make one with a recycled salad container or any other clear plastic container with a lid.

Cut a few holes in the lid for airflow. Remove the lid daily to allow air exchange, and remove it completely when the seedlings emerge. Air circulation is important to prevent damping off.

Daily venting is essential to prevent any soil fungus that thrives in cool, wet conditions.

3. Light

In most cases, seeds actually don’t require any sunlight to germinate. The seed has stored all the energy it needs to emerge once the conditions (moisture and temperature) are right. You can germinate your seeds away from sunlight or a grow light, moving them into light upon germination.

But in some cases, the seeds will actually need light to germinate. This is usually indicated on the seed packet, but if not, anything that sits on top of the soil or is very shallow in the soil often needs light for germination.

Grow lights can be extremely handy for starting seedlings.

4. Soil Temperature

For those who struggle to get seeds to germinate, I often ask them if they have considered soil temperature. It often gets pushed to the wayside in favor of other conditions like water and light.

Most seeds have a desirable soil temperature for sprouting. Solanaceous vegetables prefer higher temperatures, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Meanwhile, Brassicas, such as broccoli and cabbage, like cool soil to germinate.

Greenhouses are very efficient at keeping higher temperatures, but they often require space and materials the average gardener doesn’t have. That’s where seedling heating pads come in handy. They’re fairly inexpensive and will really speed up germination. Keep the mats on 24/7 until germination to maintain stable, warm soil.

Just remember that most seedlings like cooler temperatures, so remove the seed mats once the plant has germinated.

Peppers like warm soil, and it can affect how spicy the peppers will be.

Germination Tests

Packaged seeds are tested for their germination rates (the percentage of seeds that will sprout). Germination rates decline as seeds age, vary by variety, and can be altered by storage conditions and other factors.

Newly purchased seeds do not need germination testing. Overall, you don’t need to do a germination test. Seeds are cheap, but your time is not! However, if you have seeds that are many years old or that you have collected yourself give a germination test a try.

To perform a germination test, follow the instructions listed below in germinating seeds in a paper towel.

Any new seeds won’t require a germination test. They’re only for older seeds.

How to Germinate Seeds in Paper Towel

Germinating seeds in paper towel is quite simple and a good way to test out older seeds before committing to using up other materials and space to grow them.

Here’s how to germinate seeds in paper towel:
1. Fold a paper towel in half and wet it with a spray bottle of water. Place ten seeds inside the fold of the paper towel and cover it.
2. Place the paper towel in the plastic bag (it can be folded). Close the bag partly to create a mini greenhouse. The bag needs to have some airflow, so keep part of it open. Label the bag with the seed variety and date.
3. Set the bag in a warm spot such as on top of the refrigerator.
4. Each day, check the seeds for signs of sprouting and mist the paper towel. Seeds should sprout within 3 to 10 days or as indicated for the variety.
If you’re performing a germination test, low germination rates are less than 85%. In this case, you’ll want to plant extra seeds when you sow them. If it’s quite low, compost the seeds altogether and purchase new ones.

If you want to plant these seeds, place smaller seeds on top of moist soil. Plant deeper seeds as indicated on their seed packet. Use tweezers if necessary to move the seeds. If the paper towel is stuck to the root, cut it and plant it with the seed rather than trying to remove it.

Make sure to label your germination test with the seed variety and date.

More Tips for Starting Seeds
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
April 3, 2024
Seed Starting 101: Your Step-By-Step Guide for Starting Seeds

[ad_1]

Organic gardens are as good for the earth as they are for its lucky inhabitants. The secret to growing a healthy, lush garden all begins with a single seed. This guide covers all the basics for starting seeds so that you can revel in your gardening wizardry this spring.

Are you planning to start a garden this year? Congratulations! It’s a big deal! Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a beginner, growing a garden is good for everybody. It feeds the soul and the soil and can even feed your family.

Starting a garden off right with healthy seeds sets the roots for how the garden will grow for the rest of the year. Sure, you can help manage sick plants and dried-out leaves, but starting seeds with good intentions and mad skills will make the rest of the year’s jobs a whole lot easier.

Some of you may think I’m crazy, but I believe that how you care for seedlings will be reflected in the plant that grows and the fruit that ripens. The garden is resting now. Perhaps even covered by a blanket of snow. Now, there is ample time to slow down, plan, and nurture the very best plants to grace your garden beds.

Let’s get this gardening season started with this guide on starting seeds.

Experienced gardeners can save the seeds from their plants to use the next year.

The 10 Steps for Starting Seeds

“I made this!” I gloat while serving up a dish made entirely of food that I grew in my garden. Well, “gloat” is probably not the right word. I prance around like the fantastical wizard I am, cheering about my mad skills in making real food from tiny seeds.

It took me months. I had some fatalities. But overall, it’s fairly simple to grow from seeds. And more importantly, it’s awesome. Here are some basics for how to start seeds at home.

Make sure to label your seeds so you know exactly what they all are. Trust me, you will forget.

1. Choose Your Seeds

Starting seeds in the spring (or even winter) is one of the best ways to save money. While you could buy a pack of snapdragons at the garden centre to fill your containers, why not start them from seed at a fraction of the price? You also get way more varieties when you go the seed route.

This list covers my favourite annual flowers to grow from seed, while this list covers some of my go-to perennial flowers. Keep in mind that starting perennials from seed is often more difficult and time-consuming, so it is better suited for those with a few gardening seasons under their belt.

Seed companies in your area should sell the right seeds for your climate but do make sure that you pick the right plants for your experience level. If you’re a seedling yourself when it comes to propagation, don’t bother starting watermelons in Northern Ontario. Many seed companies will also list a difficulty rating that will help to guide you.

You might even be able to find some seeds in a seed library.

2. Read the Packet

If you want the best possible start for your seeds, your best bet is to read the packet. Most seed packets will list everything you need to know to start the seeds and their special requirements, like how deep to plant the seed, how much light they need, how long they’ll take to germinate, soil temperatures required, etc.

I cover all the basics of reading a seed packet in this post if you want to ensure you’re buying the right seeds and those that will actually thrive in your garden.

3. Choose a Container

You can start seeds in just about anything you can find around the house that will create a mini-greenhouse, or you can buy all sorts of interesting setups to best suit your needs.

Greenhouse Kits

Many different greenhouse kits are available now. Most will have a plastic tray with a clear plastic greenhouse dome. Some come with a soilless mixture for starting seeds, like peat pellets that expand to a mini seed pot when soaked in water.

Others may have coconut fibre pots that you can transplant right along with your seedling. Others may even have a heat mat that gently warms soil to improve germination.

The beauty of these kits is that you can start a large number of seeds individually in one tray (up to 72) and many are made for small spaces like windowsills. The drawback is that the seedlings will need to be replanted, either in the garden or a larger pot, in a few weeks. Leaving seedlings in small pots with no nutrition will cause unwanted stress to the plants.

Seed Starting Trays

Garden retailers will sell many different types of professional-grade seed-starting trays, domes, and inserts with features like root training, moisture control, automatic watering, and grow lights. Certainly, many of these features have value in starting the year’s plants off on the right foot and can be used over and over.

Household Items

An inexpensive and creative way to start seeds is to use household items as seed containers. Lining a seed tray with pots made from toilet paper tubes, newspaper, or egg cartons will cost nothing

At times, your family may think you’ve gone mad, given how excited you will become when you get to take home the plastic cake dome from the party. But come on, that’ll make a really great greenhouse dome, right?

Search for biodegradable paper products you can plant right in the ground or food-safe plastic containers that you can use as mini-greenhouses for your containers if you are on a budget.

Paper egg cartons are one of my favourite inexpensive household items to use as a seed starting container.

4. Growing Medium

You can buy a pre-made seed starter soil, or you can make your own with a mix. I make my own mix using a peat-moss alternative, sterilized compost, perlite, and vermiculite. This mixture is light and holds moisture well, so it is wonderful for helping seeds germinate.

All growing mediums will need some time to absorb water, so add moisture and let it soak in for an hour before planting.

Be sure to use a sterile mix if you are starting seeds indoors. Soil or compost from the garden will bring in all sorts of critters, like soil gnats, which will drive you freakin’ crazy as you run around your propagation trays like a mad person swatting and squashing an endless supply of teeny tiny flies.

Seed starting mix needs to be sterile.

5. Water Your Seeds

Germination will be best in a moist environment for most seeds, so keeping the soil damp and a greenhouse dome on top will keep the right amount of humidity for optimal germination.

Keep the soil from drying out by checking it daily. Water gently, from the bottom where possible, so as to not damage the seedlings about to emerge.

When learning how to start seeds, having just the right amount of water is important. You never want the seeds to dry out, nor do you want the soil to be soggy.

Make sure to vent your container regularly to prevent fungal growth.

6. Get the Right Lighting

Seeds won’t need light until they emerge from the surface of the soil, but then they will need strong sunlight for most of the day to prevent them from becoming leggy (overly tall and spindly = weak).

You can supplement a lack of sunlight with fluorescent lighting, either by buying a set of grow lights made for seed starting or by making your own with fluorescent shop lights.

You don’t need fancy lights to help your plants grow. This was my DIY set-up!

7. Treat Damping Off

“Damping off” is a term for a fungal growth that looks like fuzzy hairs on the seedling stem. This fungal growth will kill the seedling, so it’s bad, really bad.

To prevent damping off, occasionally spray the greenhouse dome with a bottle of 3% food-grade hydrogen peroxide and vent it on a regular basis to regulate humidity.

I also recommend watering with my chamomile fungicide spray. Chamomile naturally prevents diseases such as damping off.

It’s almost impossible to get rid of damping off, so prevention is best.

8. Thin Your Seedlings

Generally, the seed instructions will suggest that you plant 2-3 seeds per pot and thin out all but the strongest. This seems to be the thing that some gardeners have the hardest time with.

If three strong tomato seedlings have popped up in one tiny peat pot, then the gardener rushes off to get tweezers to separate out the three wee plants and re-pots them all.

More inexperienced gardeners will damage each plant, giving none a strong chance at survival, so it’s best that you grab a clean pair of scissors, snip all but the strongest seedling in each pot and be done with it.

Choose the strongest seeding and snip any remaining seedlings in the same container.

9. Hardening Off

As the seedlings grow into plants and the date to plant outside gets near, it’s time to start hardening them off or toughening them for their natural environment.

I like to start by opening a window a few hours a day so they get a breeze. Then, start moving the trays outside, out of direct sunlight, for a few hours. Start at one hour and gradually increase to a full day outside.

By the time your plant date has arrived, you can safely transfer your tough little soldiers directly into the ground, with some delicious compost and a thorough watering, to brave the elements on their own.

Seedlings are used to indoor conditions, so make sure to gradually transition them to outside.

10. Set Your Expectations

Starting seeds is such an interesting and magical process, especially for children, so it’s the perfect activity to do as a family this coming spring. The months that you’ve spent germinating and raising seedlings will be a series of trial and error, so expect some loss.

Not every seed will germinate, not every seedling will survive being transplanted, and not every kind of plant will do well in your garden.

The gains will be clear when you have piles of leafy greens taking up every inch of your windowsills, bursting to get outside. Starting the plants off yourself ensures that you are in charge of the health of the plant and can control what goes into it. And the satisfaction you’ll feel from starting your own seeds is tremendous.

My kiddo loves starting seeds with me and planting them in the garden.

FAQ About Starting Seeds

Should you cover seeds with plastic?

Yes. This helps to keep the moisture in and increase temperatures. It essentially acts as a mini greenhouse.

Cover your seeds with a clear plastic container (I like salad boxes) right after you’ve planted and watered your plants. Every day, vent the dome and clean it with food-grade hydrogen peroxide to prevent damping off. Leave the dome on until the seedlings reach it.

Do seedlings need sunlight to survive?

Yes. Seeds don’t need sunlight until they’ve germinated (sprouted above the soil). Prior to this, the seed carries all the energy the plant will need to sprout. But once it has germinated, the seedling will need lots of sunlight to grow well. Otherwise, they get leggy and weak trying to reach for more sun.

Consider using a grow light if you can’t get enough sunlight in a windowsill for your seedlings.

More Tips for How to Care for Seedlings

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

February 14, 2024
25+ of the Best Annual Flowers to Start From Seed – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

Starting flowers from seed may not be as popular as vegetables, but they deserve a spot in your seed-starting tray this spring. By growing annuals from seed, you can have a garden full of colour, fragrance, and pollinators at a fraction of the price. Here are the best annual flowers to start from seed.

Seed starting season is here, and I’ve got more than vegetables and herbs on my mind. Annual flowers are a beautiful way to add quick pops of colour to gardening beds, containers, and baskets.

While just a pack or two of annuals doesn’t cost much, their price can quickly add up if you have multiple pots or spaces to fill. But growing flowers from seed isn’t as difficult as you may think.

The trick is to know which annuals from seed to grow. I have a bunch of recommendations for you, including those that are quick to grow, those that can be directly sown, and those that can get started indoors.

Let’s get into my recommendations!

Begonia ‘Unbelievable Miss Montreal’

Fast Growing Flower Seeds

If you have a short growing season, are getting a late start, or simply want some quick-blooming flowers, these annuals from seeds are some of the quickest and easiest to grow.

Sweet Alyssum

Lobularia maritima

Days to maturity: 8 weeks

Timing: direct sow just before the last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: cover crop and filler flower, attracts beneficial insects, sweet-smelling flowers.

Calendula

Calendula officinalis

Days to maturity: 6-8 weeks

Timing: direct sow in early spring when there’s still light frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: medicinal flower great for skincare, bright orange in colour, edible petals.

Nasturtium

Tropaeolum spp.

Days to maturity: 4-6 weeks

Timing: direct sow one week after last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: vining plant, edible flowers, drought tolerant, companion plant.

Sweet Pea

Lathyrus odoratus

Days to maturity: 7-9 weeks

Timing: direct sow when light frost is a possibility

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: vining plant, sweet fragrance, array of colours available.

Marigold

Tagetes spp.

Days to maturity: 8 weeks

Timing: direct sow two weeks before the last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: drought resistant, companion plant, fast-growing, bright orange blooms.

Portulaca

Portulaca grandiflora

Days to maturity: 6-7 weeks

Timing: direct sow after the threat of frost has passed

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: annual succulent, bright flowers that grow in clusters, toxic to cats and dogs.

Zinnia

Zinnia elegans

Days to maturity: 8 weeks

Timing: Direct sow after last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: vibrant colours, perennial in temperate areas, cutting flower.

Petunia

Petunia spp.

Days to maturity: 6-8 weeks

Timing: start indoors 10-12 weeks before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: great in containers and baskets, lots of variety in colour and flower types, fast-growing.

Annuals From Seed to Direct Sow

Many annual flowers can easily be started from seed and enjoyed that same year. Sow these flowers directly in your garden outdoors in the spring and watch them bloom in no time!

Spider Flower

Cleome spp.

Days to maturity: 10-11 weeks

Timing: direct sow 3-4 weeks after last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: exotic looking flowers, attracts beneficial insects and hummingbirds.

Purple Hyacinth Bean

Lablab purpureus

Days to maturity: 12-13 weeks

Timing: direct sow after the danger of frost has passed

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: vining plant, fast growth, showy seed pods.

Cornflower

Centaurea cyanus

Days to maturity: 10 weeks

Timing: direct sow just before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: papery blooms, cut flower, attracts pollinators.

Cosmos

Cosmos bipinnatus

Days to maturity: 8-11 weeks

Timing: Direct sow after the last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: attracts pollinators, cottage flower, daisy-like blooms.

Sunflower

Helianthus annuus

Days to maturity: 10-13 weeks

Timing: direct sow after last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: tall flower great for borders, many varieties available, cut flower.

Love-in-a-Mist

Nigella damascena

Days to maturity: 12-13 weeks

Timing: direct sow 1-2 weeks before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: hardy, lacy foliage, cut flower, seed heads used in dried flower arrangements.

Phlox

Phlox drummondii

Days to maturity: 7-9 weeks

Timing: direct sow once the ground is workable.

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: great for containers, variety of colours, very low maintenance.

California Poppy

Eschscholzia californica

Days to maturity: 8-12 weeks

Timing: direct sow after the last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: drought tolerant, self-sow, bright orange colour.

Borage

Borago officinalis

Days to maturity: 8 weeks

Timing: direct sow after the last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: edible flower, drought tolerant, companion plant, attracts pollinators.

Annuals From Seed to Start Indoors

Here are some other great annuals from seed to start indoors before the growing season. They have longer growing times to reach maturity and need a head start indoors.

Ageratum

Ageratum houstonianum

Days to maturity: 8-10 weeks

Timing: begin indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: looks good in mass plantings, long bloom period, unique blue colour.

Scabiosa

Scabiosa spp.

Days to maturity: 13-14 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 4-5 weeks before the last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: attract pollinators and hummingbirds, cut flower, long bloom time.

Scabiosa stallata

Vinca

Catharanthus roseus

Days to maturity: 12 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: fast-growing, drought tolerant, toxic to animals and people.

Celosia

Celosia plumosa

Days to maturity: 12-16 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun or partial shade

Traits: wide range of bright colours, heat tolerant, cutting flower.

Celosia cristata ‘Twisted Orange’

Impatiens

Impatiens spp.

Days to maturity: 12 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 6-10 weeks before the last frost

Sunlight requirements: partial to full shade

Traits: shade lover, bedding plant, prolific bloomer, large range of colours.

Salvia

Salvia longispicata

Bloom time: early summer

Timing: start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before the last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: attracts bees, great container plant, deer and rabbit resistant.

Salvia ‘Sally Fun’

Verbena

Verbena x hybrida

Days to maturity: 13 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 12-14 weeks before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun

Traits: fast-growing, long bloom time, some varieties are toxic to pets.

Begonia

Begonia spp.

Days to maturity: 12-15 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 12 weeks before the last frost

Sunlight requirements: Partial sun to full shade

Traits: shade lover, low maintenance, long bloom time.

Begonia ‘Megawatt’

Geranium

Pelargonium spp.

Days to maturity: 16-20 weeks

Timing: Start seeds indoors 10 weeks before the last frost date

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: great container and bedding plant, long bloom period, lightly scented, mildly toxic to pets.

Regal geranium

Lobelia

Lobelia erinus

Days to maturity: 12-16 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting outside to temperatures of 10 °C or warmer

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: trailing plant, available in true blue and other colours, attracts pollinators.

Pansy

Viola tricolor var. hortensis

Days to maturity: 12 weeks

Timing: start seeds 10-12 weeks indoors before last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: edible flower, variety of colours available, cold tolerant and hardy.

Snapdragons

Antirrhinum majus

Days to maturity: 8-12 weeks

Timing: start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before planting after last frost

Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade

Traits: available in a wide range of colours, cutting flower.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Flowers From Seed

What is the best time to plant flower seeds?

Some annuals from seed require cold stratification to grow. This means it’s typically best to plant them while there is still a chance of frost or in autumn.

Otherwise, most seeds are best planted after the threat of frost has passed or started indoors. Most seed packets will tell you when to start the seeds. For an early start, many gardeners can begin starting seeds 6-8 weeks before the last frost.

How do you start a flower from a seed?

When seed-starting flowers indoors, you’ll want a good quality seed-starting soil mix. You can use many household items as seed starting containers, such as egg cartons or toilet paper tubes.

Moisture is necessary for the seeds to germinate. Keeping the soil damp with a greenhouse dome on top will keep the environment humid. Once the seeds have germinated, they will need lots of sunlight either from a sunny windowsill or a grow light.

For more detailed information on starting seeds indoors, view this post.

What are the easiest flowers to grow from seed?

If you’re looking for easy, then look for annuals from seed that you can directly sow. Beyond supplemental watering and the usual thinning, they should require less maintenance compared to those that need to be started indoors. If you’re a beginner, avoid starting perennials from seed.

Should I sow flower seeds directly?

Direct sowing is the easiest way to grow flowers from seed, but not all flowers are well suited for it. Avoid direct sowing if the seed requires high soil temperatures to germinate or requires a long time to reach maturity.

On the other hand, some flowers don’t like to be transplanted and are best to be only directly sown. Most seed packets should advise on whether or not to direct sow or begin seeds indoors.

Calendula Costa Mix

More Flowers to Add to Your Garden

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

February 12, 2024
The Seed Shopping Handbook: Tips for Buying Seeds for Gardening
[ad_1]
If I could have every seed in the world, I would. But I know that when it comes to seeds, less is more. The key is knowing what you can actually grow, what you truly want to grow, and managing your expectations. Here are the nitty-gritty details about buying seeds for gardening.

Reading a seed packet can be like reading a whole other language when you first begin. Gardening has a TON of jargon and specialty terms that can make getting started a little daunting.

And I’ve been there! I didn’t grow up gardening, so it was a steep learning curve when I began my gardening journey.

We’re in the midst of seed starting season, and I wanted to go back to the basics. I’ve had people ask me things like how you pick what to plant (especially when you want to grow everything!) and what all the information on the back of a seed packet even means.

I’m going to explain it all, so sit back and let’s talk about what you need to know about buying seeds for gardening.

Rather than buying seeds for gardening, you can also save seeds from your existing garden to plant next year.

Today, I’m sharing some excerpts from my ebook Get Growing! Expert Seed Starting for the DIY Gardener. Be sure to check it out for the full guide and everything you need to know, from sowing to thinning to transplanting your seeds.

Choose Your Seeds

Combing through seed catalogues and seed websites can be a fun adventure if done properly, but if you don’t prepare, you may end up with more than your garden (and you) can handle.

It is important to first think about what kind of plants you want (Flowers? Herbs? Vegetables?). Is it warm enough to grow watermelons in your garden or cool enough to grow kale? Do you really have space for three varieties of squash, or will one do?

Make sure to label your seedlings so you know what is what!

Perennial vs Annual Seeds

Starting seeds early in the season is a great way to save money on annuals like flowers, herbs, and vegetables that will flower or fruit in the first year. For beginners, annuals are typically the best garden seeds to buy.

More advanced gardeners could also start perennials from seed in many cases, but it is a more difficult and time-consuming process as perennials may need many months or even years to reach the size of a nursery plant.

Some perennials are easier to grow from seed than others, so if you want to try your hand at starting perennials from seed, be sure to read up on which ones are your best bet in this post.

It’s important to keep in mind that some plants do better than others from seed. This does not mean that what you sow has to be severely limited. There are plenty of flowers, vegetables, annuals, and perennials that will grow easily from seed and thrive. With so many options, you might even have a hard time choosing what to plant.

Of course, your unique location will have its own limits in terms of climate, so be sure to check the seed packet before you buy to see if your area fulfills the seeds’ requirements to succeed.

Only Buy Your Favourites

When buying seeds for gardening, it can be easy to buy every colourful, enticing seed packet you see. But try to stop and think about how much you will use.

The best garden seeds will be different for each person, depending on what you like to grow and where you live.

Make a list of your absolute favourites, and only sow the amount of veggies you will eat or the flowers you need to fill the beds.

This will make the growing process simpler and more fun, and you won’t find yourself overwhelmed by crops you can’t keep up with later in the season.

Herbs are one of my favourites to grow, so that’s what I prioritize in the garden.

Heirloom vs Hybrid vs GMO Seeds

These are terms that can get confusing for new gardeners. And they can easily get mixed up with one another! Learning the difference between the terms heirloom, hybrid, and GMO is key. This will help you in your seed selection process and ensure you buy the best garden seeds for your preference.

I have a whole post on the difference between these types of seeds and all of their pros and cons. Check that post out here.

How to Read a Seed Packet

I can’t stress this enough. Following the instructions on the seed packet will give you the best possible start. Unless, of course, the growing directions read like the radicchio I once started, “Sow seeds a few days after a moonless night.” There is a long history of growing plants with the cycles of the moon, which you can read about in this post. But for this post, we’ll stick to using the last frost dates and the Gregorian calendar.

The majority of seed instructions will list everything you need to start seeds, like when and where to sow, planting depth and spacing, special watering requirements and the number of days to germination.

Some will list special information like germination temperatures, repeat sowing, transplanting, and thinning. Following the instructions gives you the best chance of success, so those map-hating, instruction-scoffing types out there best pack away their stubbornness for seed packets.

A good seed packet will give you all the information you need to begin growing the plant.

Key Seed Packet Terms

Here are some terms you might encounter on your seed packet and what they mean.
- Germination rate: the likelihood of a seed germinating, represented as a percentage.
- Plant type: answers whether the seed is a perennial, annual, or biennial.
- Seed spacing: how far apart you should ideally place each seed from one another.
- Plant spacing/spacing after thinning: how far apart the plant should be from other plants.
- Height: the height the plant will be upon maturity.
- Days to maturity: how many days from planting until the plant is ready for harvest/blooms.
- Planting depth: how deep to plant the seed.
- Days to germination/sprout: how many days you can expect to pass before the seed begins to grow.
- Bloom period: when the plant will be flowering.
Read the packet and the growing instructions before buying the seeds.

Determining Your Growing Conditions

Before you can plant or even buy your seeds, you should have a fair grasp of your growing conditions. Each plant has specific needs to germinate and grow, so you need to make sure your garden can meet those needs if you want to grow a specific plant.

Timing

On the seed packet, it will usually tell you when to plant your seeds based on frost dates. Finding your average frost date for your area is crucial. To do this, you can use the calculator from the Farmer’s Almanac.

You can then use this date to count forwards or backwards or know when to begin certain seeds indoors.

I also encourage you to try and implement succession planting. By carefully timing when to start seeds, you can extend your harvest and space it out.

Avoid having all your vegetables ready for harvest at the same time.

Lighting

All plants will have specific lighting requirements, which are listed on the seed packet. These are usually described as full sun, partial sun, partial shade, or shade. Before buying seeds for gardening, ensure your garden has the right amount of sunlight (check out this post for how to measure the sunlight in your backyard).

Seeds will also need a specific amount of light when germinating. Seeds with a low planting depth that only have a thin layer of soil overtop will require lots of light to germinate. Likewise, those planted deeper in the soil will require less light.

Sunny windowsills or grow lights are a must for starting seeds indoors.

Temperature

Some seeds require certain soil temperatures to germinate. A heating mat can help achieve this supplemental heat indoors for certain plants like peppers or tomatoes. Others, like carrots or radishes, prefer the temperature of the outdoor soil.

For more on soil temperature, check out this post.

Soil

Most plants prefer well-draining soil, but not all do! Your seed packet may provide some information on the type of soil or location the plants prefer. If not, do a little research beforehand for the plant’s soil needs.

For seed starting, you want potting soil with sterile ingredients that won’t promote fungal or bacterial growth. You can find my go-to seed-starting potting soil recipe here.

Moisture

Some plants are considered drought tolerant and do better in areas that won’t receive supplemental watering or hot climates. Others prefer lots of water, doing best in places close to the house where they will receive extra water or areas that receive enough rainfall.

When selecting your seeds, consider your garden’s moisture conditions and how much extra watering you want to do.

This olla watering system slowly waters plants in my raised bed.

Best Places to Buy Seeds

If you’re like me, you get giddy when the seed catalogues arrive in the mail. It feels like Christmas is coming, and you can’t help but circle all the best garden seeds you want.

But for most people getting started, the first step is finding a reputable sources for buying seeds online. My favourites for Canada include West Coast Seeds and Richters.

Avoid buying seeds online from across borders or anything that could be invasive to your area. When in doubt, don’t buy the seeds. The local garden centre will always carry good-quality and safe seeds.

Also, see if there is a little seed library in your neighbourhood! Some libraries even offer seeds as well. Because who could say no to free seeds?

FAQ About Buying Seeds for Gardening

Is it better to buy seeds online or in person?

Either is a fine option. When buying seeds online, you get a wider range of seeds available. You can find many varieties and rare plants that you couldn’t get at the garden centre. You do have to double-check and perhaps do some extra research to ensure the seeds will germinate and grow in your area.

How do I choose the right kind of seeds?

The most important factor when buying seeds for gardening is ensuring your garden has the right growing requirements for the plant. Look at the seed packet for its sunlight, water, soil, and space requirements. If your garden matches, then the seeds are good to go.

The other main aspect you want to look at is gardening zones. This will give you a quick indicator of whether or not the plant can handle the temperatures in your gardening zone.

What’s the best way to store seeds?

Seeds should be stored in airtight packaging and then labelled with the plant name and variety, where you grew it, and the date. This information will be very helpful when you decide where to plant it the following year.

Keep the seeds in an area where they won’t get damp and at a relatively stable temperature. They should be in a cool, dry place. Most seeds are good for two years. After, their germination rate decreases with every additional year in storage.

Coriander seeds.

More Seed-Starting Resources

This is just the beginning of all the seed-starting info I have to share. Check out these posts for more information about the next steps in growing plants from seed.
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
February 5, 2024
What is Chaos Gardening? And Why You Should Try It – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
Chaos gardening is one of the easiest ways to start a garden from scratch. If you don’t have the time, money, or knowledge to start a garden at your house, chaos gardening is a great solution. Here’s how you can embrace a little bit of chaos and scatter beautiful seeds in your garden.

Chaos gardening is the latest gardening trend to take over social media. And it’s one that I quite like! It embraces the idea of wild, natural spaces and makes gardening even more accessible.

But what you may not realize is that the ideas behind these social media trends, like chaos gardening or No Mow May, are rooted in regenerative and permaculture practices…what if we let nature take the lead?

Chaos is not only a fun approach to gardening, but it’s very affordable and requires low effort. Here’s how to do it!

Chaos gardening works well even with perennials and shrubs.

What is Chaos Gardening?

Forget keeping a tidy row of vegetables or a crisp, perfect green lawn. Chaos gardening embraces the idea that our gardens can be a little wild and crazy. And that’s a good thing.

Chaos gardening involves taking a handful of seeds, tossing them sporadically into the soil, and crossing your fingers. It’s really that simple.

You can use any seed, from vegetables to flowers, as long as they don’t need to be dug down deep.

Chaos gardening is the response to the overly meticulous, strictly planned garden. You don’t have to worry about spacing requirements or try to maximize a yield based on your square footage.

In my first house, I had a very good friend who lived across the alleyway. As a renter, her budget for making a garden from scratch was minimal.

While it may not have been called chaos gardening at the time, it’s exactly what she did. She bought a few packets of native wildflower seeds and tossed them into the garden. As the plants grew, she would slowly transplant and organize her garden a little, but she still embraced that wild and natural look.

This is chaos gardening in its simplest form. But it can also mean just allowing your plants to grow as they like, letting native plants take the lead, and embracing a more natural space as a whole.

This home uses plenty of grasses and flowers as part of its “chaotic” design.

Benefits of Chaos Gardening

Chaos gardening saves time and money. If you want to enjoy a garden but don’t want the work of maintaining and planting it or the hefty price tag of filling it with plants, seeds are the way to go.

In my opinion, one of the biggest benefits is how the planting will mimic the natural world. Nature is inherently chaotic and wild, and we don’t always need to organize it perfectly.

Depending on what seeds you plant, it can also promote biodiversity in the garden. For the most effective and low-maintenance garden, it’s best to plant native plant seeds. These plants are already accustomed to the growing conditions in your area and will require less work on your end to ensure they thrive.

Better yet, these native plants are already key players in the local ecosystem, providing food and shelter for wildlife and pollinators. The plants can self-seed at the end of the year, continuing to grow and regenerate naturally every season.

Chaos Gardening is Not Everyone’s Cup of Tea

I won’t lie; chaos gardening can sound horrifying to some people. A wild, more natural look is definitely not everyone’s cup of tea. Even in my own slightly curated but natural space, I get comments and looks from people about my more messy approach to gardening.

Rewilding is a big topic in the plant space right now. While chaos gardening isn’t necessarily about being wild, it embraces the way that nature naturally grows.

Why are we always trying to control these green spaces in our lives? Do we really need perfectly manicured lawns and gardens? There’s an assumption that neat and orderly are good, but anything messy is bad. But context really is everything.

My friend Laura and her husband Sam have a beautiful, chaotic garden. I featured their wildlife hedge in my book, The Regenerative Garden. To the untrained eye, their garden may look like an overgrown mess.

But I see so many beautiful plants working together in guilds and as a food forest. The whole garden produces a ton of food and is full of bees and birds, but it does look wild and overgrown.

On either side, their neighbour’s lawns are the complete opposite. They even complained about the appearance of Laura and Sam’s garden because they saw it as messy.

But when I saw it, I absolutely loved it. As I see it, these wild lawns represent the chaotic good, while those perfect lawns represent the lawful evil.

Laura and Sam’s wildlife hedge.

How to Do Chaos Gardening

Chaos gardening can be as simple as tossing a mix of seeds into your soil and seeing how it goes. You can get as chaotic as you like, but you can also add some thought and maintenance to it. It’s your garden. It’s your prerogative!

Here are some general tips to try out:
- Group plants with similar needs. AKA plants that like full sun and well-draining soil can be grouped together, ensuring they get scattered in the right areas.
- Opt for native species. These seeds are much more likely to germinate and thrive on their own as they’re used to the area’s sun, water, temperature, humidity, and soil.
- Consider local regulations. Things like plant height bylaws or strict HOA rules can limit what you plant and how you plant them.
- Stomp your seeds. After you scatter your seeds, walk and squish down the seeds into the soil. This helps the seeds not get blown away.
- Water your seeds. After you scatter your seeds, give the area a good watering to kickstart the germination.
- Aftercare. You can choose to leave it as is and let it be as wild as possible, or you can go in and thin the seedlings, water the plants, add compost or fertilizer, etc.
- Try chaos gardening with vegetable seeds. Scatter seeds like lettuce or carrots into your already established vegetable garden and watch these veggies fill in the extra spaces.
These floral seed bombs from my book Garden Alchemy are a fun and beautiful way to embrace chaos gardening.

Seeds to Plant

If you need some inspiration on what seeds to grow, here are a few of my curated lists.

I grew these purple coneflowers from seed.

My Final Thoughts on Chaos Gardening

Never let anyone tell you that you have to garden in a single way. Whether you like the look of something neat and orderly or love the look of a wild meadow, you do what you want.

Your garden is your happy space. It doesn’t have to be someone else’s happy space.

My advice is to embrace the little outlier here and there. It may be a weed that’s helping to fix your soil or a volunteer native species that just decided to grow in your garden one day. Things don’t have to be perfect!

More Ways to Embrace the Chaos!
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
January 8, 2024