It was another busy year for fashion: Every other week brought another major headline, between creative director switch-ups, supermodel comebacks and viral runway moments. The industry proved it’s back in business — and louder than ever. That much was clear on the runways, on and off-schedule.
All those shocking runway moments have definitely set a precedent for 2023. Before the clock strikes 12 on 2022, relive the most memorable fashion shows of the year, superlative-style. Until next season!
Best Show: Thom Browne Spring 2023
Thom Browne Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Thom Browne Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Thom Browne Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Best Vibe: Collina Strada Spring 2023
Collina Strada Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Collina Strada Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Collina Strada Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Best Casting: Gucci Spring 2023
Gucci Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Gucci Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Gucci Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Gucci
Nepo Baby-est: Miu Miu Spring 2023
Esther Rose Mcgregor for Miu Miu Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Ísadóra Bjarkardóttir for Miu Miu Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Bella Hadid for Miu Miu Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most Joyful Color Palette: Christopher John Rogers Resort 2023
Christopher John Rogers Resort 2023. Photo: Theo Wargo/Getty Images
Christopher John Rogers Resort 2023. Photo: Theo Wargo/Getty Images
Christopher John Rogers Resort 2023. Photo: Theo Wargo/Getty Images
Best Bags: Dauphinette Spring 2023
Dauphinette Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Dauphinette
Dauphinette Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Dauphinette
Dauphinette Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Dauphinette
Best Shoes: Simone Rocha Spring 2023
Simone Rocha Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Simone Rocha Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Simone Rocha Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most… Most: Balmain Festival Spring 2023
Balmain Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Balmain Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Balmain Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most Viral: Coperni Spring 2023
Coperni Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Coperni Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Coperni Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most Sophisticated (and Rich-Looking): Ralph Lauren Spring 2023
Ralph Lauren Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Ralph Lauren Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Ralph Lauren Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most Exciting Emerging Collection: Bad Binch Tong Tong
Bad Binch Tong Tong Spring 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Bad Binch Tong Tong
Most Likely to Make You Book a Jamaican Vacation: Theophilio
Theophilio Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Theophilio Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Theophilio Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most On-Point Venue: Batsheva
Batsheva Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Batsheva Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Batsheva Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most Likely to Get Us to Sign Up for Adult Ballet Classes: Sandy Liang
Sandy Liang Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Sandy Liang Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Sandy Liang Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most Likely to Inspire Memes: JW Anderson
JW Anderson Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
JW Anderson Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
JW Anderson Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Most Likely to Make Jaws Drop: Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Glenn Martens
When Jason Chen coined the term gorpcore in The Cut back in 2017, he wasn’t discovering a new trend — he simply put a label on an aesthetic we were already familiar with: fashion that leans towards the outdoorsy, informed by what you might see on a hiker or a camper, with an emphasis on the utilitarian. But it occupies a gray area between technical apparel and something a little bit more zeitgeist-y, like normcore.
Gorpcore went mainstream in the mid-2010s when celebrities like A$AP Rocky and Frank Ocean started wearing Adidas Terrex AX3 GTX Men’s Trekking sneakers and Arc’teryx jackets. Demand for these brands skyrocketed, both from consumers and other players in the market: This ushered in a series of collaborations — North Face and Supreme, Columbia and Opening Ceremony, Fjallraven and Acne Studios — that continue to this day. (Just last week, Reformation announced a capsule with Canada Goose.)
Gorpcore has flourished into its own subcategory in the market. And in recent years, it’s evolved to intersect with the luxury world on a whole new level.
Nylon accessories on the Prada Fall 2019 runway.
Photo: Imaxtree
Dior x Birkenstock, Jacquemus hiking boots, Prada’s hit nylon accessories — okay, the latter technically is a re-issue, but still: All of these are a testament to gorpcore’s popularity among shoppers. (The Lyst Index of 10 hottest products for Q3 of 2022 included both the Birkenstock Boston Clog and the Patagonia Better Sweater fleece.)
“Essentially, gorpcore became the new luxury streetwear,” says Lorna Hall, director of fashion intelligence at WGSN. “Its active functionality was truly performative to those buying into it — hence the infamous TikToks demonstrating a jacket’s waterproof credentials [by] standing in a shower or throwing bottles of champagne at it.”
It’s only growing in resale, too: Searches for “gorpcore” have been on the rise on Depop among its loyal customer base of teens and twenty-somethings, according to Augustina Panzoni, the company’s trends and category manager. Brands like Arc’teryx, The North Face and Salomon are driving greater traffic than ever, especially for vests, rain jackets, technical pants and bags. But Panzoni calls out Prada, Dior, Jacquemus and Loewe as luxury brands that have crossed into the space.
Patagonia Fashion Week?
Photo: Vanni Bassetti/Getty Images
Gorpcore gives these younger consumers the opportunity to mix and match different aesthetics together and express themselves. They tend not to be loyal to a single brand, nor can they necessarily afford an entire luxury wardrobe. By jumping (and cashing) in on this aesthetic, luxury brands have provided more aspirational options to those able to afford them; but it’s an aesthetic that’s still attainable on a budget.
TikTok has also helped. Panzoni points to the viral trend of people wearing Arc’teryx’s Gore-tex jacket in the shower while listening to “Arc’teryx” by YG; searches for Arc’teryx rose almost 200% in the last quarter on Depop.
Meanwhile, for the brands that originated gorpcore, this recent trend is an opportunity to expand their clientele and stay relevant.
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In 2021, The North Face teamed up with Gucci on a collaboration of groovy backpacks, colorblocked coats, Gucci-North Face monogramed puffers and heavy-duty boots. Launchmetrics reported that in just four months, the collection accumulated a whopping $15.3M in Media Impact Value. That same year, Arc’teryx partnered up with Jil Sander on a line of jackets, bibbed trousers and one-pieces that marry aesthetics and utility. More recently, on Sandy Liang‘s Spring 2023 runway, models walked out in ballet-inspired outfits paired with Salomon hiking shoes, creating an interesting juxtaposition between the designer’s über-feminine style and tougher footwear.
Sandy Liang Spring 2023.
Sandy Liang Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Teva has seen a similar resurgence in the age of gorpcore, embraced by everyone from Kendall Jenner to Chloe Sevigny — and it’s only kept growing since the pandemic.
“We carved out this unique space for ourselves in the fashion market with our statement sandals, and now with our lifestyle boots, but we really saw an acceleration of comfy-casual trends winning during the pandemic” says Julia Feldman, associate product line manager at Teva. (The brand alluded to a luxury collaboration on the horizon.)
Also on the footwear front, Collina Strada — a beloved New York label that’s often inspired by nature and driven by sustainability — introduced a collaboration with Melissa that’s generated a lot of buzz. Their Puff Sandal is futuristic-style hiking shoe that’s both funky and sporty, inspired by founder Hillary Taymour’s own lifestyle.
When it came to designing the shoe, it was equal parts about the aesthetic and functionality. “We made it so you could literally hike up rocks and jump into an ocean — it’s the coolest water-functioning shoe I have ever seen,” Taymour says. “Wear it with a pair of socks in the fall, with cargo pants or a dress, and it’s still a statement shoe. I feel like anything that’s multi-functional and can be worn for different types of outings is very much the Collina way.”
Collina Strada Spring 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
So what’s behind this new wave of gorpcore — one that toys with luxury — surging years after the trend first emerged? To a certain extent, it’s a reflection of our sociopolitical climate.
“In streetwear, the mood and mentality always fits the times, and there’s a very definite element emerging of ‘harderwear for hard times,’ which aligns the aesthetic and performance to the dark geopolitical and economic mood music” says WGSN’s Hall. “The narrative is less about outdoor pursuits and weather functionality, more about survivalism.”
As for what’s to come, some predict the next step for gorpcore is to go digital.
“Streetwear is also starting to respond to the meta economy, where we see performance streetwear increasingly being influenced by metaverse/gaming and fantasy aesthetics,” says Hall. “The question is: Should they lean into these shift, or is it a step too far from their true extreme/outdoor DNA and therefore too big a risk?” Only time will tell.
When the sun starts setting far too early, you might find yourself reaching for creature comforts to help you cope. That could be a cozy robe, cozy socks, a cozy blanket… See a theme here?
The out-of-home equivalent, of course, is the fleece jacket, which, over time — first with normcore and more recently with gorpcore — has expanded beyond the shelves of outdoor retailers and into pretty much every corner of fashion. Patagonia and The North Face may be tried and true, but designers like Sandy Liang, Donni, Tory Burch and more have put their own spin on the staple and incorporated it into their mainstay assortments. There’s also more variety in silhouette, from zip-ups to pullovers to proper jackets to vests. And from classic cream to prints you can’t look away from, there’s a fleece flavor for everyone.
Shop some of our favorite fleeces for fun cold-weather dressing in the gallery below.
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As temperatures continue to drop, we are quickly approaching a very specific type of weather. It’s the type of weather that has you hitting snooze just to stay under your warm duvet for a few minutes longer, and prioritizing comfort over style when putting an outfit together. The thing is, you really don’t have to sacrifice cuteness or coziness this winter because it’s sweatsuit season. Think of it as the new sweater weather.
Over the last few years, many pandemic-era trends have come and gone, but comfort is one we can’t seem (and don’t want) to shake. And brands have been quick to respond by producing an abundance of matching sweatshirts and sweatpants. What’s better than an outfit you can literally wear to bed and in WFH meetings? It’s elevated, it’s effortless, and any attire I can nap in is one I want to be wearing.
Ahead, we’ve compiled 16 Fashionista-approved sets. Throw on one of these sweatsuit combos with a pair of mini Ugg slippers (sorry, I’m obsessed!), a pair of hoop earrings and a slicked-back bun, and you’ll be ready to go forth and be comfortable.
Please note: Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site. In no way do either affect our editorial decision-making.
