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  • In Its Best Week Since 2021, Sotheby’s Hit $1.173B With a $54.7M Kahlo Finale

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    On November 20, Sotheby’s generated a combined total of $304.6 million between the Cindy and Jay Pritzker Collection, Exquisite Corps and Modern Evening sales. Julian Cassady Photography / Ali

    Of the $1.6 billion of art expected to change hands during this year’s November sales, $1.1 billion was secured by Sotheby’s when the evening sales concluded on the 20th. When tallied with the Day sales the following afternoon, the auction house’s fall marquee week sales had generated a total of $1.173 billion—the second-highest total ever after the $1.33 billion achieved in November 2021 at the height of the contemporary and ultracontemporary markets.

    Following the success of the Leonard A. Lauder sale, which delivered a $527.5 million Evening total and a clean 100 percent sold rate for the $3.8 million Day sale offering (est. $3.2 million), Sotheby’s completed a full white-glove, three-sale marathon. It opened with The Cindy and Jay Pritzker Collection Evening Auction, which totaled $109.5 million, followed by the $98.1 million Exquisite Corpus sale and a $97 million Modern Evening auction. Driving many of the lots was strong participation from Asia, which accounted for 30 percent of total bidding, a reminder that Asian collectors respond enthusiastically when true quality comes to market.

    Most importantly, if 2021 belonged to the contemporary and ultracontemporary frenzy, these marquee sales showed a clear pivot. Buyers turned toward art-historical touchstones by the most established names in Modern art or toward figures long overlooked and now undergoing reassessment. Across the November sales, Sotheby’s sold $843 million of Modern works, the highest total ever for the category in a single season. Prestigious provenance and strong storytelling were key in this inaugural auction round at the Breuer building for Sotheby’s, with single-owner collections accounting for 72.5 percent of the week’s total ($828,244,220 of $1.173 billion). And in the contemporary segment, it was the artists with the strongest institutional foundations who rose to the top.

    “After years of uneven seasons, this week’s results demonstrate that the often quoted cliche of the three D’s (death, debt and divorce) powering the art market has never been truer,” Mari-Claudia Jimenéz, partner and co-head of Withers Art & Advisory, confirmed. For the industry’s seasoned expert, the abundance of fresh-to-market, extraordinary-quality estate properties inspired buyers to return with gusto to chase the best-in-class works with impeccable histories.

    Sotheby’s evening marathon on November 20 began with the collection of Chicago’s Cindy and Jay Pritzker, who are best known for founding the Pritzker Architecture Prize in 1979. The sale immediately set the tone of the night, generating $109.5 million across just 13 works against a pre-sale estimate of $73.5 million to $88.5 million.

    Leading the auction was Vincent van Gogh’s Romans Parisiens (Les Livres jaunes) (1887), a radiant still life from the artist’s Paris period in which a stack of yellow-bound books becomes a portrait of his voracious intellect and humanist curiosity. Boasting an extensive exhibition history, the canvas was pursued for at least seven minutes by five bidders and sold for a record-setting $62.7 million, well above its estimate of around $40 million and setting a new benchmark for any still life by the artist.

    Deep bidding also accompanied the sale of Wassily Kandinsky’s musical watercolor “Ins violett” (Into Violet) from the height of his Bauhaus period, listed as No. 188 in his handlist. Sought by five bidders in a spirited exchange, it more than doubled its high estimate, fetching $2,368,000 (est. $700,000-$1,000,000).

    Other Modern masterworks in the Pritzker collection prompted intense competition. Camille Pissarro’s Bords de l’Oise à Pontoise, dating to the beginning of the artist’s second sojourn in Pontoise in 1872, was pursued by four bidders and achieved $2.5 million against its $1.2-1.8 million estimate. Félix Vallotton’s poetic domestic scene, Femme couchée dormant (Le Sommeil), triggered an animated battle between six collectors on the phones and in the room, pushing it above its $1.8-2.5 million estimate to sell for $2.8 million. The canvas had been acquired by the Pritzkers from Wildenstein & Co., New York, in 1985 and remained with them ever since, as did most lots in the sale.

    Lot 10, the Cubist Nature morte by Fernand Léger, also sparked back-and-forth bidding from five contenders, driving the work to $2,214,000, nearly double its $800,000-$1.2 million estimate. This was followed by a $9,200,000 result for Max Beckmann’s classics-inspired canvas, sought by five bidders, and Joan Miró’s uncanny sculptural reinterpretation La Mère Ubu, which achieved $5,052,000 after a battle between four bidders, landing near the midpoint of its $4-6 million estimate. The bronze had been acquired by the couple in 1980 from legendary dealer Pierre Matisse in New York.

    Another highlight, Henri Matisse’s Léda et le cygne, sold for $10.4 million, meeting its high estimate with fees. One of the very few architectural pieces by the artist—the majority of which are in public spaces or museums—and the first of its kind to appear at auction, the unique work was commissioned in 1943 by Argentine diplomat Marcelo Fernández. Last exhibited publicly during the 1984-85 Matisse exhibition at the Moderna Museet in Stockholm and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art in Humlebæk, it was acquired the following year by the Pritzkers from Feingarten Galleries in Los Angeles. But Paul Gauguin’s La Maison du Pen du, gardeuse de vache from his Nabis period failed to find enough bidders to meet its $6-8 million estimate, selling instead at its reserve for $4,930,000.

    Frida Kahlo’s $54.7 million record

    The evening continued with a section entirely dedicated to Surrealism, as the movement continues to gain momentum, further ignited by the major Surrealist show that has just opened at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and as its unsettling aesthetic resonates uncannily with the chaos, sentiments and desire to exorcise it that define our time. In only one night, Sotheby’s placed more than $123 million of Surrealist works, the highest total for Surrealist art ever sold in one evening at Sotheby’s.

    A painting by Frida Kahlo shows a woman sleeping in a yellow bed while a skeletal figure lies on a second bed stacked above her against a cloudy sky background.A painting by Frida Kahlo shows a woman sleeping in a yellow bed while a skeletal figure lies on a second bed stacked above her against a cloudy sky background.
    Frida Kahlo’s El sueño (La cama) from 1940 achieved $54.7 million with fees, becoming the most expensive work by a female artist. Sotheby’s

    The dedicated single-owner sale Exquisite Corpus offered works from one of the most distinguished private Surrealist collections, accumulated over four decades, yet kept rigorously unnamed in keeping with the movement’s aura of mystery. Nonetheless, given that many of the lots appeared in the Guggenheim’s 1999 exhibition “Surrealism: Two Private Eyes,” which celebrated the collections of Daniel Filipacchi and record producer Nesuhi Ertegun—who together assembled the most important grouping of Surrealist art in private hands—we can reasonably speculate that the consignor is most likely the Ertegun estate, especially once noticing that several works list in their provenance that they were acquired from the Parisian dealer Daniel Filipacchi, ruling him out as the consignor. Artnews reached the same conclusion, reporting that the 1940 Kahlo was consigned by the estate of Selma Ertegun, who built the collection with her late husband Nesuhi Ertegun. The session closed with a white-glove result of $98.1 million, with 67 percent of works selling above their high estimates.

    The undisputed star of the collection was Frida Kahlo’s masterpiece of mystery and spirituality, El sueño (La cama), which ignited spirited international bidding before hammering at $47 million, or $54.7 million with fees, to Anna Di Stasi, Sotheby’s senior vice president and head of the Latin American art department. The result not only set a new record for the artist but also for any woman artist at auction, surpassing the previous $44.4 million benchmark set by Georgia O’Keeffe in 2014. The mystical canvas had been purchased by the consignor at Sotheby’s in 1980 for $51,000 and remained in the collection since then, marking a return of roughly 107,000 percent.

    Depicting a skeleton floating above the artist as she lies in her bed—herself suspended midair as a fragile terrestrial vessel—Kahlo visualizes what art historian Whitney Chadwick describes as the “Mexican belief in the indivisible unity of life and death.” Considered a key work in Kahlo’s career, where she reached the height of her symbolic and psychological resonance, the canvas boasts a major exhibition history, having appeared in “Frida Kahlo and Tina Modotti” (1982-83) at the Whitechapel Gallery in London, the Haus am Waldsee in Hamburg, Kunstverein Hannover, Kulturhuset Stockholm, New York University’s Grey Art Gallery and the Museo Nacional de Arte in Mexico City. It also featured prominently in the Guggenheim’s 1999 show “Surrealism: Two Private Eyes,” and in the Tate’s landmark Kahlo survey in 2005, which later traveled to the Walker Art Center and the Philadelphia Museum of Art in 2007-08.

    We will see this masterpiece again soon in a slate of upcoming exhibitions, including “Frida y Diego: The Last Dream” at MoMA in New York (March 22-September 7, 2026), “Frida: The Making of an Icon” at Tate Modern in London (June 25, 2026-January 3, 2027), “Frida Kahlo—The Painter” at Fondation Beyeler in Basel (January 31-May 17, 2027), and “The Autonomous Gaze” at the Bundeskunsthalle in Bonn, Kunstmuseum Basel, the Espoo Museum of Modern Art and BOZAR Brussels (December 2026–July 2028).

    Another standout of the evening, Salvador Dalí’s jewel-like Symbiose de la tête aux coquillages, captivated several bidders with its hallucinatory power, reaching $4,198,000 (est. $2-3 million) on the phone with an Asian bidder. With a distinguished exhibition history—from the Hayward Gallery’s Dada and Surrealism Reviewed (1978), to Centre Pompidou’s “Salvador Dalí: rétrospective, 1920-1980 (1979-80),” to the Guggenheim’s “Surrealism: Two Private Eyes (1999)”—the work was acquired from Daniel Filipacchi in Paris in 1977 and remained with the consignor ever since, meaning they were also responsible for these museum loans.

    The market for Paul Delvaux also remains strong, with his haunting Composition reaching the high end of its estimate and selling for $3.8 million (est. $2.5-3.5 million).

    Female Surrealists remain a bright spot. First exhibited in 1953 as part of her solo show at Alexander Iolas in 1958 and formerly in the collection of William N Copley, Dorothea Tanning’s otherworldly Interior with Sudden Joy sold for $3.2 million (est. $2-3 million), setting a new record for the artist. Her previous record, Endgame (1944), achieved $2.3 million at Christie’s last May.

    hanting image of women dressed in white dresses in the darknesshanting image of women dressed in white dresses in the darkness
    Dorothea Tanning’s otherworldly Interior with Sudden Joy sold for $3.2 million (est. $2-3 million), setting a new record for the artist. Sotheby’s

    Highly coveted among collectors are the extremely rare paintings on masonite by Remedios Varo. Created shortly after Varo fled war-torn Europe, marking a pivotal shift in the artist’s storied practice, her Sans titre from 1943 approached the million mark after fees, landing at $952,500 (est. $500,000-700,000). Her current record, Revelación, was set last May at Christie’s at $6.22 million, surpassing her earlier $6.19 million record for Armonía (Autorretrato Sugerente) in 2020. Reflecting the growing curatorial effort to decentralize Surrealism beyond Paris, the recent major survey celebrating the movement’s centenary dedicates its final room to a compelling dialogue between Varo and Leonora Carrington.

    Another striking leap came for the French artist, illustrator and long-underrecognized Surrealist insider Valentine Hugo, whose Le Crapaud de Maldoror climbed to $825,555 after seven bidders pushed it far beyond its $150,000-200,000 estimate. And for those who enjoy the footnotes of Surrealist intrigue, the piece dates from the period when Hugo was also romantically entangled with André Breton.

    New attention to Surrealist influences in Latin American modernism also propelled Óscar Domínguez’s La Machine à écrire, which more than doubled its high estimate and sold for $3.7 million (est. $1-1.5 million). More broadly, as institutions work to broaden the canon, overlooked figures outside Surrealism’s Parisian core are gaining the long-overdue recognition they deserve.

    One of them is Austrian-Mexican artist Wolfgang Paalen, a member of Abstraction-Création from 1934 to 1935, who joined the Surrealist movement after relocating to Mexico in 1935 and remained a significant figure until 1942. His revelatory, surreal landscape, Fata Alaska, set a new auction record for the artist at $1,016,000 (est. $350,000-450,000).

    Another double record arrived courtesy of Hans Bellmer, who broke his auction record twice in one night. First, his uncanny gouache Main et Bras achieved $508,000 (est. $100,000-200,000). Then, a rare and intensely erotic oil on canvas—a medium he rarely used, being far better known for his photographs of dolls—nearly reached the million-dollar mark, fetching a record-setting $942,000 (est. $300,000-400,000). “The starting-point of desire, with respect to the intensity of its images, is not in a perceptible whole but in the detail,” Bellmer wrote in his anatomy of image. “The essential point to retain from the monstrous dictionary of analogies/antagonisms which constitute the dictionary of the image is that a given detail, such as a leg, is perceptible, accessible to memory and available, in short, is real.” It is a reflection that perfectly encapsulates the tension between fascination and horror, erotism and violence that animates all his seductive yet unsettling work.

    A $97 million Modern Evening

    The evening concluded with the core offering of the Modern Evening auction, which across its 29 lots generated $97 million, surpassing the pre-sale estimate of $71.1-101.9 million. One of the evening’s most anticipated lots, René Magritte’s Le Jockey Perdu, led the sale, achieving $12.3 million after fees. The exquisite gouache encapsulates Magritte’s signature play with visual paradoxes, maintaining the sense of spatial disorientation and uncanniness—alongside the sly playfulness—that runs through his entire oeuvre. First conceived as a papier collé in 1926, the motif was quickly followed by an oil of the same title, which headlined the artist’s first one-man exhibition in 1927 at Galerie Le Centaure in Brussels. Evidently fascinated by the theme, Magritte returned to the image of the lost jockey in multiple gouaches and oils throughout his career. The work came from the collection of the late real estate magnate Matthew Bucksbaum and his wife Carolyn, whose group of works in the sale brought a combined total of $25.2 million.

    Despite the nearly three-hour marathon, the Modern session opened energetically with Joan Miró’s oil-on-burlap panel, Personnages et oiseau devant le soleil, also from the Bucksbaum Collection. It prompted a dynamic bidding battle between seven contenders, rapidly pushing it far beyond its $400,000-600,000 estimate to land at $2,368,000. The couple had acquired the work in 1998, when it last appeared at Sotheby’s, consigned by Perls Galleries.

    Other top results of the evening included Georgia O’Keeffe’s Large Dark Red Leaves on White, which landed at $7.9 million, just shy of its high estimate. Jean Dubuffet’s Restaurant Rougeit II sat comfortably within its range, selling for $7.5 million. Degas’s pastel of three ballerinas, Trois danseuses, was chased by five bidders and fetched $5.8 million.

    A forest with a man on the horseA forest with a man on the horse
    René Magritte’s Le Jockey Perdu led the Modern Evening sale, achieving $12.3 million after fees. Sotheby’s

    A Modern sale would be incomplete without Monet. One of his famed Impressionistic views, capturing the shifting light around Rouen Cathedral, more than doubled its low estimate, selling for $7.4 million after a lengthy bidding war among six bidders in different geographies. The painting was practically fresh to auction, having remained in the Schlumberger collection for over 60 years, and appeared at auction for the first time last night.

    Another artist who inspired strong interest was Childe Hassam, one of the leading American Impressionists and a central figure in what became known as the “Ten,” the group that broke from the Society of American Artists to champion a more progressive, modern approach at the turn of the 20th century. His Newport, October Sundown from 1901 was fiercely pursued by four bidders, achieving $2,002,000 above a $1.8 million high estimate. The painting came from the Sam and Marilyn Fox Collection, two prominent patrons and civic leaders from the St. Louis region, whose group generated a total of $2.7 million, exceeding its high estimate of $2.4 million.

    As MoMA finally pays overdue tribute to the work of Cuban artist Wifredo Lam with a show that opened earlier this month, his Ídolo (Oyá/Divinité de l’air et de la mort) drew strong attention in the room, selling for $7.4 million and marking the second-highest auction price ever achieved for the artist. The renewed institutional spotlight clearly reinforced market confidence, positioning the canvas as another highlight of the evening and Lam as a name we will likely see rise further at auction in the coming seasons.

    While the Modern section closed with white gloves, several lots still fell below their low estimates. Arthur Garfield Dove’s Rose and Locust Stump, backed by a guarantee and irrevocable bids, sold for $681,000, nearly half its low estimate, despite its extensive exhibition history. Andrew Wyeth’s dark landscape, East Waldoboro, also sold below expectations at $3,588,000 (est. $4-6 million). Jacques Lipchitz’s sculpture Baigneuse assise went for half its low estimate at $381,000, despite its prestigious provenance from the Geri Brawerman Collection, which generated a total of $16.7 million during the night.

    Sotheby’s continued with its day sales on November 21, which delivered an additional aggregated total above $51 million, between the $46,404,999 of the Modern Day Sale and the $4,912,868 for the Exquisite Corpus Day session. Sotheby’s Contemporary day sale, held a few days earlier, generated $111.4 million, the highest total ever for a Day sale at Sotheby’s. The white-glove offering for the Lauder day session brought the total for the Lauder collection to $531.3 million.

    Ultimately, Sotheby’s was the clear winner this round, generating a solid and unequivocally successful $1.173 billion with its Evening and Day sales. Meanwhile, Christie’s fall marquee sales totaled $965 million, while Phillips brought in $92,139,589 across its various sessions. In total, across all three auction houses, the November marquee sales have generated more than $2.2 billion, a number that suggests the market has rediscovered some of its energy. Miami, however, will be the real litmus test of the season, because what we saw in action and at auction this week was only the very top of the market.

    In Its Best Week Since 2021, Sotheby’s Hit $1.173B With a $54.7M Kahlo Finale

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    Elisa Carollo

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  • Highlights and Sales from an Effervescent Art Basel Paris VIP Preview

    Highlights and Sales from an Effervescent Art Basel Paris VIP Preview

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    Art Basel Paris 2024 on opening day. Courtesy of Art Basel

    The majestic Grand Palais quickly filled with a steady stream of art lovers there for Art Basel Paris’ VIP preview day. The atmosphere was positive and the mood upbeat, spurring healthy sales and lively negotiations from the early hours. Collectors and professionals from across the globe descended on the preview, with many traveling from the Americas and Asia. Among the notable attendees were Chloe Sevigny, Natalie Portman, Owen Wilson, Princess Maria-Anunciata von Liechtenstein, Queen Rania of Jordan, Raf Simons, Sheikha Mayassa, Sheikha Nawar Al Qassimi, Philip Tinari, Massimiliano Gioni, Adrian Cheng, George Economou, Maya Hoffmann and Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, to name a few.

    Image of a fair booth with black walls.Image of a fair booth with black walls.
    Pace Gallery’s booth “Mystic Sugar” curated by Paulina Olowska at Art Basel Paris. Sebastiano Pellion di Persano

    At the entrance, Gladstone’s booth greeted fairgoers with a monumental Dubuffet hanging on the wall, juxtaposed with a sculpture by Sarah Lucas and drawings by Marisa Merz, an homage to the Arte Povera artists celebrated in the show at La Bourse—Pinault Collection. Pace Gallery stood out with “Mystical Sugar,” curated by Paulina Olowska, featuring an extensive work that dominated the booth alongside pieces by Louise Nevelson, Kiki Smith and Lucas Samaras. In the first few hours, all four of Olowska’s paintings sold, as did several sculptures by Nevelson and Smith. In the backroom, Lee Ufan’s Response from 2024 led sales, complementing works by Ufan, Agnes Pelton, Max Ernst, Leonor Fini and Alexander Calder.

    Next door, Blum & Poe presented a solo booth of Asuka Anastacia Ogawa, which sold out by the afternoon, with prices ranging from $22,000 to $100,000. Not far away, Eva Presenhuber’s solo presentation of new works and furniture by Tschabalala Self also sold out in the early hours, with prices ranging from $175,000 to $320,000. Jeffrey Deitch curated a booth featuring rarely seen artists like Myrlande Constant and Ella Kruglyanska, with a focus on Judy Chicago and a standout selection of Rammellzee works, ahead of his upcoming show in NYC.

    PPOW saw strong results, selling all of its Grace Carney pieces in the $20,000 to $30,000 range, along with a central piece, a large table with a hand-painted tablecloth and porcelain vases by Ann Agee, sold as a pair for $14,000-18,000. MASSIMODECARLO also did brisk work, selling twenty-five pieces on the first day, including a Matthew Wong painting consigned directly from the estate, presented alongside a work by Salvo. Other sales included a piece by Dominique Fung ($36,000), various works by Jean-Marie Appriou, two by Tomoo Gokita, three by France-Lise McGurn and one by artist duo Elmgreen & Dragset, who currently have a museum exhibition at Le Musée D’Orsay.

    Among the notable sales on the first day, White Cube sold a Julie Mehretu work for $9.5 million, a Howardena Pindell piece for $1.75 million and a Lucio Fontana slash for $1.3 million.

    Image of a booth with paintings and sculpturesImage of a booth with paintings and sculptures
    Jeffrey Deitch at Art Basel Paris. Photo by Andrea Rossetti. Courtesy of the artists and Jeffrey Deitch, New York and Los Angeles.

    Standing out in the Hauser & Wirth booth was a striking spider by Louise Bourgeois, paired with a powerful Ed Clark, which reportedly sold by the end of the day for $950,000. Also sold was a work by Barbara Chase Riboud for $2.2 million and a large Mark Bradford for $3.5 million. Of particular interest, the external wall featured a large Jeffrey Gibson, hinting at a potential new collaboration with the gallery, while the other wall showcased a vibrant, explosive work by Frank Bowling. Meanwhile, Lisson Gallery sold two pieces by Colombian artist Olga de Amaral—one for $800,000 and the other for $400,000—both to a private U.S. collection. The sales coincided with the artist’s current show at Foundation Cartier in Paris, one of many exhibitions opening alongside Art Basel Paris.

    Image of a fair boothImage of a fair booth
    Lisson Gallery at Art Basel Paris. Courtesy Art Basel

    In celebration of Surrealism’s 100th anniversary, many booths honored artists from the movement in the city where it began. Di Donna offered a beautiful dialogue between Jean Tanguy and Wilfredo Lam, while Nahmad devoted their entire booth to works by Dalí, Picabia, Max Ernst, Tanguy, De Chirico, Picasso and Magritte, along with a stunning floating mobile by Calder. In the masterworks section, featuring pieces priced in the five- to six-digit range, Van De Weghe presented a 1964 Pablo Picasso and a 1985 Great American Nude by Tom Wesselmann, riding the wave of momentum from the “Pop Forever” show at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Tornabuoni’s booth featured a standout monumental map by Alighiero Boetti, covering an entire wall. New York dealer Aquavella showcased a series of masterpieces by Fontana, De Kooning, Basquiat and Thiebaud, with a gallery representative telling Observer that “a lot of good collectors” had come through throughout the morning.

    Among the best-curated booths, The Modern Institute from Glasgow dedicated its entire presentation to a site-specific, immersive installation by artist Martin Boyce, titled Before Behind Between Above Below. Combining various works and elements, Boyce created a liminal interior space exploring the boundary between the real and imagined and the collapse of architecture and nature. The installation drew inspiration from Jan and Joël Martel’s cubist trees, first exhibited at the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in 1925, right in front of the Grand Palais.

    Image of a booth with a lamp on the floor and a pink structure all the ceiling. Image of a booth with a lamp on the floor and a pink structure all the ceiling.
    The Modern Institute at Art Basel Paris. The Modern Institute

    Once the ground floor became too crowded to navigate, many collectors sought breathing room in the upstairs sections, where more space  allowed for new discoveries, particularly in the terrace corridor of the “Emergence” section. A standout in this area was the experimental Jakarta-based gallery Rho Projects, showcasing Kei Imazu’s intriguing blend of historical memory, traces,and digital structures (priced between $15,000 and $20,000). Another highlight was a large, narrative-rich painting by young Polish artist Jeh Eustachy Wilsky, presented by Piktogram, stretching across the entire booth.

    SEE ALSO: Lukewarm and Less Engaging, London’s 1-54 Had Little New to Say This Year

    Upstairs also housed a range of thriving galleries, including Karma, Clearing, Mariane Ibrahim, Sultana and Société. Société’s booth had a future-forward feel, featuring Trisha Baga’s pictorial explorations of the digital realm and a divinatory video by Lu Yang. Nearby, Ortuzar Projects presented a solo booth of Takako Yamaguchi, fresh from the Whitney Biennial, which quickly attracted buyers. With prices set at $300,000, only three works remained by midday.

    Throughout the VIP day at Art Basel Paris, the atmosphere was effervescent, proving that collectors are still eager and excited about bold new moves—especially with this being the first Art Basel in its new, opulent historic venue, which truly has no architectural equal worldwide.

    SCAD at Design Miami Paris with an Alumni Booth presenting the work of Trish Andersen, Lærke Lillelund, Bradley Bowers and Eny Lee Parker. Photo Chia Chong. Courtesy of SCAD.

    Design Miami Paris also saw a successful opening, launching its second edition the day before with a similarly packed VIP reception at L’Hôtel de Maisons. Inside the lavish 18th-century mansion, exhibitors presented a curated selection of historic and contemporary collectible designs, with strong sales early on. Notably, Galerie Downtown-LAFFANOUR (Paris) sold a full-scale Jean Prouvé post-war prefabricated house (1946) for over one million euros.

    Among the standout presentations, SCAD took over the elegant staircase with a cascade of abstract forms and vivid colors in a fiber site-specific installation by artist and alumna Trish Andersen. The school also showcased the creative talents of alumni Lærke Lillelund, Bradley Bowers and Eny Lee Parker. Other highlights included fashion designer Rick Owens’ striking pair of Tomb Chairs in the gardens, presented by Salon 94 Design (New York), alongside rare pieces by Gaetano Pesce, such as his Palladio Cabinet (Milk colored prototype) (2007) and Flower Origami Table (2023). The award for “Best Gallery Presentation at Design Miami Paris 2024” went to Galerie Gastou (Paris) and Galerie Desprez-Bréhéret (Paris), which brought a significant collection of minimalist works by Jean Touret in wood and iron, shown in dialogue with contemporary pieces by Agnès Debizet.

    Image of a garden of a elegant palace with peopleImage of a garden of a elegant palace with people
    The garden of Design Miami at the fair’s opening. IVAN EROFEEV

    Art Basel Paris and Design Miami Paris continue through Sunday, October 20.

    Highlights and Sales from an Effervescent Art Basel Paris VIP Preview

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    Elisa Carollo

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  • 48 Hours of Art in Denver: One Festival, Two Museums, Five Galleries and Too Much Coffee

    48 Hours of Art in Denver: One Festival, Two Museums, Five Galleries and Too Much Coffee

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    Picture in Picture by Signe and Genna Grushovenko on display at this year’s Cherry Creek Arts Festival. Christa Terry

    Ask locals where to see the best art in Denver and more than a few will point you toward the famously angular Denver Art Museum. Multiple Uber drivers will suggest you visit the trendy RiNo district. Both are good ideas, but keep pestering the nice people of Denver and the recommendations start to get more interesting. There’s the American Museum of Western Art. There’s Meow Wolf’s Convergence Station, though I leave it up to you to decide whether that’s really art. There are the eye-catching public installations, many rather horsey, like Donald Lipski’s The Yearling and the sculptor-killer, Blue Mustang (Observer correspondent Nick Hilden rightly pointed out some months back that Denver has a thing for big blue mammals). Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen’s monumental dustpan, Big Sweep, is certainly something. And Leo Tanguma’s murals in Denver International Airport are said to hide the secrets of the Illuminati.

    But I’m not here to see any of that. I’ve traveled to Colorado’s capital with a friend for the sprawling Cherry Creek Arts Festival—an annual juried event that attracts applications from thousands of artists and supports arts initiatives across the state. This year’s festival was spread out over six short blocks with tent after tent of exhibiting artists plus at least four cross streets with more artists’ booths and food vendors, live music, a silent auction and a crafty area for kids, which is where we stopped for shade and shaved ice on Day 0.

    The Cherry Creek Arts Festival attracts thousands of artist applicants each year. Christa Terry

    It wasn’t just the heat that got to us. As Jason Horowitz—now Rome bureau chief of the New York Times but once staff writer for this publication—put it in 2008: “Even if you are not thirsty, the one thing everyone in Denver tells you to do is drink water. That headache you feel is not a headache, it’s dehydration. Don’t take Advil, Bayer or Tylenol. Drink water. Lots of water. Keep water on your bed stand and water in your car. Put water in your backpack.”

    My friend put water in her bag; I did not, but I did pack sumatriptan, and she was kind enough to share her water with me during our whirlwind semi-self-guided tour of what’s on in Denver. We had two days and two nights to experience as much art as possible—like a pub crawl of culture. Our host and home base: Hotel Clio, one of several upscale hotels in Denver, home to Toro Latin Kitchen & Lounge (more on this later) and the site of one of the most well-appointed fitness centers I’ve ever encountered. Also, deep, deep bathtubs. I took two baths per day, just because I could, but beyond the baths, here’s what our 48 hours of art in Denver looked like.

    Donald Lipski’s The Yearling. Christa Terry

    Day 0

    I pick up my friend at 4:45 a.m. for a 7:30 a.m. flight. Neither of us plans to check a bag, but I am naturally anxious and like to be in the terminal two hours before boarding to confirm that my gate actually exists. We breeze through security, our gate does in fact exist and we grab breakfast sandwiches that I can’t eat because who the hell is actually hungry before nine? I end up tucking into my gluey room-temperature egg and cheese on the plane while cringing through the new Mean Girls and then Jules, which I’d never heard of and am honestly still not sure I’d recommend. My friend graciously takes the middle seat and sleeps through almost the entire flight.

    We land at Denver International Airport without incident and despite how much I’ve talked up the absolute weirdness of it—from the subterranean reptiles dwelling in the bunkers underneath to the Flat Earth propaganda in the murals to the resident ghosts—I’m too tired to even look for the famous gargoyles. I am, in fact, desperate for two things: to get more coffee and to get to the Uber that arrived roughly a minute and a half after I ordered it. Once on the road, we gaze unblinkingly out the windows, anxious for a glimpse of Blucifer, but we’re on the wrong side of the highway.

    It’s too early to check in, and I don’t want to visit the Cherry Creek Art Festival until we talk to PR head Bryant Palmer, so we drop our bags at Hotel Clio—briefly admiring the art in the lobby on loan from Clayton Lane Fine Arts, which we’ll visit tomorrow—and head away from the long line of artists’ booths just around the corner. By now, we’re exceedingly hungry, but our first stop is Masters Gallery, which has a fun mix of bronzes and other sculptural works, paintings and glass art. We were particularly taken with Lawrence Feir’s fantastical metalwork wall sculptures that rendered the human form in something like chainmail (but make it sci-fi). Lunch is hand pies from the nearby Pasty Republic.

    Artwork in the Hotel Clio lobby. Christa Terry

    In the early afternoon, after checking in and refreshing ourselves—that’s bath number one—we have a quick meet and greet with festival PR head Bryant Palmer, who gives us the Media tags that will get us into the daily festival VIP lunch and hopefully make it less awkward when I ask artists if I can record them. During our brief chat, he tells us that last year’s participants sold $4.4 million worth of art, averaging out to about $18,000 per participating artist, which probably accounts for the popularity of this festival with artists.

    Still, Palmer says, it’s a pretty accessible event, which is reassuring for us to hear, as our art buying budgets are relatively small. “You don’t have to spend fifteen thousand dollars to get something fantastic. You can if you want, it’s perfectly doable here, but you also can purchase original art for a lot less, too.”

    Last year, the Cherry Creek Arts Festival drove $4.4 million in sales. Christa Terry

    As we start down 2nd Avenue, the festival’s main thoroughfare, I am already grappling with how I will write about all this. There’s the by-the-numbers approach: the festival showcases the work of 250 artist exhibitors selected from among 1,942 artist applicants, with twenty returning award-winners from last year’s festival and five specially selected emerging artists, and so on. Booth 1 is a real eyecatcher, hung with the colorful, vintage-photo-inspired paintings of Signe and Genna Grushovenko. One large work, Picture in Picture, stands out: in it, two women browse artworks displayed on a city street. Very meta.

    Darryl Cox’s “fusion frames” stood out. Christa Terry

    From there, it’s a mad dash to see as much of the work of those 250 artists as we can while attempting to stay cool in the afternoon heat. My friend is immediately taken with the glass and ceramic art, and I can’t blame her. It’s not really my thing—I’m a painting person—but there are people here doing absolutely amazing stuff with glass and clay, from Amber Marshall’s modular pouffes to Randy O’Brien’s crackled wall pillows. Meanwhile, I gravitate toward the minimalist paintings of Ezra Siegel and similar works (I have a type) but nothing really has me overcome until I see Darryl Cox, Jr.’s striking amalgamations of frame and driftwood that are unlike anything I’ve seen before.

    Amy Flynn creates robots sculptures made of vintage found objects. Christa Terry

    Other booths that stand out on our first walkthrough of the festival include those of Amy Flynn, who builds whimsical robot sculptures out of found materials, Brice McCasland’s visually immersive collage paintings and Glory Day Loflin’s paintings inspired by fiber art and quiltmaking and based in her grandmother’s textile practice.

    “Every festival is different,” she tells us when we ask about her Cherry Creek experience thus far. “One thing I’ve noticed about this one is I’m seeing a lot of traction with specifically what I’m creating: the color saturation and the high key colors. That’s really drawing people in.”

    Artist Ezra Siegel discusses his art with a festival visitor. Christa Terry

    All told, we spend about four hours roving from booth to booth, for both the artworks and the shade, but we have other places to be. First, the Toro Denver x Relevant Galleries kickoff cocktail event featuring drinks and small bites inspired by David Yarrow’s El Toro, during which I eat too much because everything is so damn good—including the company.

    David Yarrow’s El Toro and a cocktail inspired by the work at Relevant Galleries. Christa Terry

    “You really shouldn’t wait if there’s something you want to buy at the festival,” a gallerist warns us as we nibble. “I fell in love with this painting but decided to wait. When I went back, I got there just in time to see a couple walking away with it.” My friend and I briefly consider heading back out into the still-glaring sunshine to panic buy several things that had caught our eyes earlier in the afternoon, but by then the El Toro-inspired cocktails are working their magic and we strike up a conversation with a local art collector who, in one of those random coincidences, has friends who work at a distillery in my friend’s town.

    Our next stop is Toro proper to make a late-ish dinner reservation that now feels a little too early given how much we’ve accidentally eaten. But I’m a completionist, so I gamely dig into scallops with pork belly and pepita rosemary butter and a plate of sweet corn empanadas. Let me tell you something: should you find yourself in the neighborhood of Hotel Clio, have dinner at Toro. And when you have dinner at Toro, order the sweet corn empanadas. And when you eat the sweet corn empanadas, do not—I repeat, do not—neglect the accompanying chimichurri.

    For the rest of the night, I gush about the Toro chimichurri—to our waiter, to chef de cuisine Tracey Todd and to Hotel Clio concierge George Maresh when I need his help figuring out how to access our museum tickets. I’m a little tipsy, and I’ve got chimichurri on my mind as I enjoy bath number two.

    Day 1

    After exhausting all the coffee pods in my room, I persuade my friend to grab to-go coffees in the Hotel Clio lobby and join me on my morning stroll. While I wait, I browse the Hotel Clio art collection on my phone—I am trying to have as many art experiences as possible, after all. Artists whose work is scattered around the hotel include Hannah Ehrlich, Kim Knoll and Jared Rue, and the common curatorial thread, marketing manager Christopher Polys tells me later, is “an appreciation for Cherry Creek’s past at the confluence of the Cherry Creek and Platte River where gold mining was prevalent.” Something I’ve noticed about art in Denver is that a lot of it is very much geographically grounded. Folks in the West really like Western art.

    The festival doesn’t open until 10 a.m., and I’m interested in seeing more of the neighborhood anyway. We knew Cherry Creek was a little tony—there’s the country club, the independent pasty shop, the lovely little store specializing in Versace kitchenware, the new Vespas everywhere—but I find out just how tony when I look up the asking price of the townhouses with For Sale signs in the yards.

    A room in the Clyfford Still Museum. Brent Andeck, courtesy the Clyfford Still Museum

    Thoroughly caffeinated with muscles warmed and ready, our first stop of the day is not the festival but the single-artist Clyfford Still Museum, which opened in 2011, the culmination of Still’s wish that his body of work (much of which he retained until his death) would remain in storage until an American city built a museum to house his art “exclusively.” That city turned out to be Denver, and that museum in its beautiful building designed by Brad Cloepfil now holds more than 3,000 paintings and works on paper—roughly 93 percent of his lifetime output—in 30,000 square feet. Still once said seeing his work in its entirety was akin to “a symphony,” and I can’t disagree. I was only passingly familiar with the artist before this trip, and I find myself moving from painting to painting in rapt fascination. As it turns out, I really like Still’s monumental canvases and how the Clyfford Still Museum preserves and presents them—particularly how it makes every effort to incorporate the stories of both the women who launched his career and the women who were creating art at the same time but were excluded from the Irascibles.

    A view of East 2 West Source Point by Larry Kirkland. Christa Terry

    (Please forgive this digression, but Denver is weird. It’s obviously a city, but where are all the people? It’s a beautiful Saturday and the streets and greenspaces around the museum are practically empty. Our Uber driver tells us there’s been a population boom that started with the legalization of recreational cannabis and has since attracted tech companies to the region, but I’m not seeing it.)

    We drop back in at the hotel for tacos in the VIP lounge with plans to tour a few of the local art galleries in between visits to the festival. The forecast says the high will be roughly ninety degrees in the late afternoon and I gratefully grab two of the branded paper fans I’d seen people the day before. Thank you, CherryArts! For the rest of the day, my maniacal fanning will prompt my friend to ask repeatedly if I’m okay, but it’s just hot and I’m starting to think Jason Horowitz was right about Denver and dehydration. Luckily, there’s an afternoon Arnold Palmer station (with syrups!) in the Hotel Clio lobby, where we stop after more time at the festival and before heading back to Relevant, where we meet with consultant Melissa Batie.

    RELEVANT PHOTO

    It is, she tells us, one of a veritable fleet of galleries operating under the umbrella of AD Galleries, a mini empire of fine art dealers built by Paul Zueger. Two other AD Galleries are right here in Cherry Creek: Masters Gallery, which we’ve already visited, and Clayton Lane Fine Arts, which is our next stop. “Each gallery has a different vibe,” Batie says. “If you walk into Masters Gallery over, you’ll see lots of bronzework and glass. We’re representing a lot of photography right now.” And so they are, with large-scale works by Yarrow, along with pieces by photographer and printmaker Russell Young (who works with diamond dust left behind by Warhol—look it up). Their roster also includes the estate of modern American bronze master Gib Singleton, painters like Earl Biss and others, whose works are rotated through the various galleries. While Relevant doesn’t bill itself a gallery of Western art, the thread of inspiration is certainly there.

    Clayton Lane Fine Arts, just three doors down Clayton Street, couldn’t be more different, with its focus on Pop Art and Surrealism along with works by Old Masters like Rembrandt and, surprisingly, limited edition lithographs and serigraphs of the art of Dr. Seuss. There are works by Salvador Dali and Joan Miró, as well as pieces by rising stars in an eclectic mix of works that gallery director Carrigan Sherlock rearranges depending on the season. “It’s summer now” she says, “and I wanted something kind of fun and fresh so I put the Hamilton Aguiar ocean pieces up in the front windows.” She’s worked in Aspen and Vail but tells us she likes Denver, and this spot in Cherry Creek more particularly, because of the international collectors who come through.

    CLAYTON LANE PHOTO

    There are still at least two short block’s worth of art festival we haven’t yet checked out. We do our best to take it all in from the relative quiet of the center of the street, but my friend and I are both suffering from acute art fatigue. Almost nothing stands out—imagine you’re at a wine tasting on your fifth vintage and you’re a little buzzed and suddenly it’s all just wine. I do stop and buy a bright Pop-y rooster print by Kenneth Kudulis. I almost buy a print by Tanya Doskova, who as far as I’m concerned dominated the festival with her deeply political and deeply weird works of magical Surrealism, and I’ll be forever sad I didn’t when I had the chance. We also pause and talk with painter Janina Tukarski Ellis, who tells us she landed on crowds as her primary subject because she likes the unity. “We may not know each other and we may not be interacting, but we’re all there for a similar purpose, whether that’s an adventure or an art show,” she tells us, and it feels like the perfect ending to our festival experience.

    Works by Janina Tukarski Ellis. Christa Terry

    I optimistically have two more gallery visits on the agenda, but Abend Gallery’s Cherry Creek outpost closed not fifteen minutes earlier. It’s small and has big windows, though, so I peer in and am taken with Patrick Nevins’ Playtime is Over, which I would buy in a heartbeat if I had the means. We briefly step inside Fascination St. Fine Art, which is worth a visit but much larger than it looks from the street—suddenly we’re traversing a Tardis-like maze of hallways and staircases that eventually dumps us back onto the sidewalk via a wholly different entrance.

    Patrick Nevins’ Playtime is Over at Abend Gallery. Christa Terry

    We hurry along to Cucina Colore, an Italian place founded by Venanzio Momo that is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Though tempted by the pastas and mains, we opt for cocktails and a pair of pizzas—the Bergamo and the Carne—since Signor Momo’s first restaurant in Colorado was a pizzeria. The quality was top-notch; the quantity, too much. Unless you’re absolutely ravenous, one pizza and a shared app or salad will be plenty enough for two people. We do look at the dessert menu, but I order an after-dinner coffee as a balm for my uncomfortably overstuffed belly.

    Back at Hotel Clio, George the concierge has sent two jars of Toro’s chimichurri to my room and the gesture has me feeling oddly emotional, which is how I know that this overtired art lover should probably go straight to bed. Instead, I go down to the hotel’s fitness center and do a mixed routine of strength, stretching and cardio, because I can’t resist the siren call of an on-site gym.

    The Hotel Clio fitness center. Christa Terry

    Day 2

    After my morning bath, I spend some time gazing out my room’s window at the sun-kissed Rockies, which seem both loomingly close yet so far away. Striding along the squeaky clean and utterly empty sidewalks of Cherry Creek—yes, I have convinced my friend to go on another morning walk—you wouldn’t even know the mountains are out there. As we sip and stroll, we discuss our plans for our final half day in Denver.

    Breakfast at Hotel Clio. Christa Terry

    Do we want to go back to the festival after our final meal at Hotel Clio? Not really, we decide together. The Cherry Creek Arts Festival is great, but we’ve seen everything we wanted to see (in some cases more than once) and talked to everyone we wanted to talk to and bought everything we’re going to buy. And while there are other art galleries in Denver we could check out, it’s Sunday and some are closed and gallery hopping doesn’t sound particularly appealing after more than a day and a half of near-continuous art exposure.

    We settle on a relaxed visit to the Museum of Contemporary Art Denver, a 27,000-square foot, environmentally sustainable institution housed in a Sir David Adjaye-designed building (the first U.S. museum commission for the now disgraced architect). We bring our luggage, and the people at the admissions counter are super chill about storing my bag and my recently purchased art.

    Gala Porras-Kim’s “A Hand in Nature” at MCA Denver. Courtesy MCA Denver, photo Wes Magyar

    Currently on at MCA Denver are “Gala Porras-Kim: A Hand in Nature” and “Critical Landscapes: Selected Works from the Ella Fontanals-Cisneros Collection.” The latter gives me space to hold forth about Ana Mendieta and the controversy surrounding her death and how Carl Andre was a piece of shit. The former wows me and my friend both. My only previous exposure to the work of Colombian-Korean-American artist Gala Porras-Kim was in a brief Observer writeup about last year’s Liverpool Biennial of Contemporary Art, but I suggest you look her up. (In the words of my friend, Porras-Kim “is so smart and so driven to pursue fairness and justice for historically marginalized peoples.”)

    The exhibition, which is focused primarily on climate change, is thought-provoking, but what stands out are the works in which Porras-Kim directly challenges the collecting practices of museums through letters and corresponding artworks. Leaving the institution through cremation is easier than as a result of a deaccession policy pairs a letter to Alexander Kellner, director of the National Museum of Brazil, which suffered a devastating fire in 2018 that destroyed much of a 12,000-year-old fossil nicknamed Luzia, and a tissue with a handprint rendered in ash from the fire that Porras-Kim calls the “closest thing to a cinerary urn” as she encourages Kellner to recognize Luzia’s personhood.

    After seeing everything there was to see, we navigate MCA Denver’s narrow and echoing stairwell to the top floor where there is a small but engaging display of works by the museum’s staff. There’s also a rooftop garden cafe overlooking the quiet and strangely empty street, which is exactly what we need in that moment. I’m about to Uber back to the airport, which is sure to be busy given that this is the tail end of a holiday weekend. My friend tells me she’s thinking she’ll do a little more exploring before checking out the Denver Botanic Gardens, having dinner with a local acquaintance and finally returning to the east coast on a red eye. I order my usual latte. And my friend, because Denver is Denver and she is smarter than me, drinks more water.

    Blucifer is much easier to photograph if you’re heading toward the airport. Christa Terry

    48 Hours of Art in Denver: One Festival, Two Museums, Five Galleries and Too Much Coffee

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    Christa Terry

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  • Billionaire Julian Robertson’s $190M Art Collection Is Finally Unveiled In Auckland

    Billionaire Julian Robertson’s $190M Art Collection Is Finally Unveiled In Auckland

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    The Robertson Gift: Paths through Modernity, installation view, Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki, 2024. Photo: David St George

    In the late 1970s, Julian Robertson decided to take a year off from investing and moved his family to New Zealand in an attempt to write the great American novel. While his literary ambitions never came to fruition, the country made a lasting impression on the late hedge fund investor, who in 2009 bequeathed the majority of his art collection to a museum in Auckland.

    Now, two years after Robertson’s death at age 90, his works have settled into their new home at the Auckland Art Gallery and are on display in “The Robertson Gift: Paths through Modernity,” which opened last month. Valued at $190 million in 2022, the 15-piece collection contains pieces from major European artists ranging from Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali to Paul Cezanne and Paul Gauguin. “Patronage of this scale is unprecedented, and the collection of modern masterpieces is unique,” said Kirsten Lacy, the gallery’s director, in a statement.

    SEE ALSO: Art Dealer Aladar Marberger’s Storied Collection Heads to Auction

    Known as the “Wizard of Wall Street,” Robertson was a pioneering figure in the world of hedge funds and short selling. He had an estimated net worth of $4.8 billion at the time of his death, according to Forbes. After closing his hedge fund Tiger Management in 2000, he continued to invest in emerging hedge funds known as “Tiger seeds” and support those run by former employees referred to as “Tiger cubs.”

    Black and white photograph of dressed-up coupleBlack and white photograph of dressed-up couple
    Josie and Julian Robertson. Photo: Blanche Williamson

    Robertson also remained actively involved in business pursuits over in New Zealand. Robertson and his wife Josie, who died in 2010, split their lives between the country and New York, going on to establish three major resorts across New Zealand’s Northland, Hawke’s Bay and Queenstown. Robertson was even appointed an honorary knight by the nation in 2010.

    A transformative donation

    The couple simultaneously were building up a vast art collection, one filled with masterpieces like Picasso’s 1938 Femme à la résille and Gauguin’s 1884 Cow in Meadow, Rouen. They occasionally lent out works to museums like Auckland Art Gallery, which exhibited more than a dozen of their pieces in 2006. The positive response to the show, which urged children to draw their own versions of the couple’s works, was overwhelming and inspired the Robertsons to bequeath the majority of their collection to the museum. “You fall in love with these pictures a little bit and you want to be sure they will be left with somebody who loves them and that [exhibition] made us realize they would be loved,” Robertson told The New Zealand Herald at the time.

    Chris Saines, then the director of the museum, subsequently selected an assortment of 15 works for the gallery that spanned movements like impressionism, fauvism, cubism, surrealism and post-war abstraction. These pieces are the core of Auckland Art Gallery’s “The Robertson Gift: Paths through Modernity,” which also features more than thirty loans, recent acquisitions or works from the museum’s permanent collection.

    Two oil paintings hanging on white gallery wallTwo oil paintings hanging on white gallery wall
    Pablo Picasso’s Mère aux enfants a l’orange and Femme à la résille on display in The Robertson Gift: Paths through Modernity at Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki, 2024. Photo: David St George

    At the time of the Robertsons’ bequeath, it was the largest gift ever made to an art museum in Australasia. The couple’s decision to donate their collection to a smaller institution was a purposeful one. “A lot of the large cities, if you give your art—unless it’s just perfect to the museum—it resides in some underground vault underneath the city for the rest of its life,” said Robertson in a 2013 interview with the nonprofit Bridgespan Group. “It’s been probably the most appreciated gift we’ve ever given.”

    Auckland Art Gallery would not have been able to obtain such a selection of paintings and drawings without the couple’s vision, according to Lacy. The impact of their donation was monumental not just for the museum but also for New Zealand. “The Robertson’s gift is unquestionably the most transformative bequest of international art to the country in the past century,” she said.

    The Robertson Gift: Paths through Modernity” is on view through January of 2026.

    Billionaire Julian Robertson’s $190M Art Collection Is Finally Unveiled In Auckland

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    Alexandra Tremayne-Pengelly

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  • Arts Travelogue: Finding Dali in Cadaqués

    Arts Travelogue: Finding Dali in Cadaqués

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    I recently went for a long walk, over several weeks, down the Costa Brava from Banyuls, France to Sitges in Spain. I walked with no particular destination and on no schedule, so when I ended up in Cadaqués, I stayed a while. I was drawn to this once-isolated, steep-sided harbor village where Salvador Dali spent much of his adult life, but it was more than this that attracted me.

    Cadaques. Costa Brava. Catalonia. Spain. Europe
    Cadaqués at night, with the church of Santa Maria de Cadaqués on full display. Photo by: Paolo Picciotto/REDA&CO/Universal Images Group via Getty Images

    Cadaqués has long been known as a stronghold of Catalan independence, and a safe harbor for smugglers and refugees from all over the world. The town is isolated in a craggy harbor and difficult to access even today with only one road in and one out. Most of the tourism is driven here by Dali’s house and some adjacent arts-related attractions, but as famous as Dali is, his name and his influence don’t overbear the small town.

    I walked in from the north through the arid Paratge de Tudela where the light is flat and intense. It has the effect of making the Mediterranean in the distance seem deeply, refreshingly blue as it shimmers off the morphic rock formations all around. A visitor with the right set of eyes could see elephants with skeletal legs, and camels with five humps within the play of light and shadow the rocks cast. Dali used this light and this landscape as the setting for many of his dramatic absurdities.

    Salvador Dali statueSalvador Dali statue
    The Salvador Dali statue in Cadaqués. Photo by: Mikel Bilbao/VW PICS/Universal Images Group via Getty Images

    If you draw a line between the towns of Figueres, Púbol and Cadaqués, you have a triangle across the Emporda. This is known to some as the Dali Pyramid, as it connects the three towns most important to him. He was born in Figueres and bought a castle for his wife in Púbol, but it was to Cadaqués that he was indelibly drawn. The stark landscape, its cluster of buildings and the stoic residents of the town begin to show up in his paintings as early as 1916.

    SEE ALSO: Exploring Japan’s Art Islands: A Guide to Naoshima and Teshima

    Dali lived in Cadaqués throughout his adult life in a twisted dream house of his own design, filled with his surrealistic fantasy furniture and fixtures. Being obsessed with Dali’s paintings in my youth, hiking the coastal trail around the finger of rock, up the hills and then down to the cove at Port Lligat was like walking through a dreamscape. A place I’d never been but knew so well.

    Museum-House of painter Salvador DaliMuseum-House of painter Salvador Dali
    The strange Museum-House of painter Salvador Dali. Photo by: Betend A/Andia/Universal Images Group via Getty Images

    The first time I visited the house, there was a high school field trip scrambling through the place. The second time, I ended up giving my spot to a teacher from Taiwan who had ridden his bicycle halfway around the world and made the famous house one of his prime stops but came too late in the day to get a ticket.

    I didn’t need to tour the famous house; I know what’s in there. But to stand on the dock and face the entrance to the cove was like stepping into one of Dali’s seascapes, and I nearly expected a great Madonna to rise up out of the sea.

    ‘Punta Es Baluard de la Riba d’en Pichot, Cadaqués,’ (1918). © Salvador Dalí Museum Inc., St. Petersburg, FL

    The house isn’t sectioned off in any way. The dock, which seems unchanged since Dali painted it, is lined with small boats. It’s still a working area. Lobster baskets hang from a pole and the boats come in and out with netted fish. Is that Dali’s own skiff painted a bright yellow still moored, as it was in his Punta Es Baluard de la Riba d’en Pichot, Cadaqués.

    Spotting a homemade black-and-white label on the bright blue door of a private house adjacent to Dali’s Maisonette that reads ‘This is not Dali’s house’ seemed to me an exceptionally surreal happenstance—c’est no es pip. The whole place could be examined through Dali’s to reveal some hidden truth.

    A white doorknob in a blue doorA white doorknob in a blue door
    A door in Cadaqués. J. McMahon

    The church of Santa Maria de Cadaqués was just a few steps up above my hotel so I thought I would stick my head in quickly and see what was drawing the loose string of tourists milling about its courtyard.

    The church was originally erected in the 13th Century and then rebuilt in the 16th. It overlooks the bay and its wealth betrays the dedication of the townspeople to its upkeep. The 18th-century titular altarpiece, baroque to the point of monstrousness, minutely detailed and masterfully crafted, was almost too much to take in a church of its size.

    The Madonna looms over the nave at 22 meters high. The figure was immediately familiar—the open-armed Madonna inhabited Dali’s works in various forms for thirty years. Around her, the detail of the baroque altarpiece nearly overwhelmed me. I wasn’t prepared for this kind of majesty in a church with a congregation of just 400 or 500 people.

    At night, I had taken to hanging around at Netico’s House where a cosmopolitan group of renegades sat eating and drinking inside and out. My first night I took the sole table for one in the alley on which sat a placard featuring a sepia-toned photograph of an old man in olden times. I read the quote in Spanish and understood it to mean something like ‘Man is nature that has become aware of itself.’ This was a beer ad?

    I searched the quote and found it was from the manifesto of the French anarchist Elisee Recluse from sometime in the 1880s, so I ordered one.

    The narrow streets and alleys of Cadaqués were paved generations past with pieces of slate on edge so that both humans and donkeys alike could get a good grip when the weather played hell, in the meantime, it was playing hell on my already sore feet. Just sitting and listening to multi-lingual murmurings was a pleasure not only to the ear but to the rest of the body as well.

    When my beer came the label revealed it was made by an anarchist, nano brewer and the label depicted Angel Rock, a symbol of the city being squeezed into a fist until blood ran down the arm, not unlike Hunter Thompson’s gonzo symbol, and of course, it was because this was Cadaqués.

    The chain-smoking sisters who ran my hotel gave me some historical pamphlets about the town to read. It was an odd selection of history and quotes, but some of it gave real insight into the place. “The fates have not been kind to the people of Cadaqués… when disaster strikes, the only person you can rely on is a fellow Cadaquésenc, which has given rise to the town’s motto, Nos amb nos (Us with us).

    Place To Visit: Salvador Dali's Places - Figueras and CadaquesPlace To Visit: Salvador Dali's Places - Figueras and Cadaques
    Sculptures in the garden of the Casa-Museu (House-Museum) of Salvador Dali. Photo by Franco Origlia/Getty Images

    On a rainy afternoon, I ducked into the Expo Dali—one of the few places in town that seemed to be shamelessly profiting from using his name. The museum is full of photos of Dali and his entourage taken by the owner. It didn’t add up to much until I went up to the third-floor gallery. The room was hung with a hundred portraits of townspeople. Each sat in the same chair, in the same corner of a room in what could have been in any house in town.

    All the photos were taken in the 1950s. The people, men, women, youth and elders alike share an unmistakable profile, and each sits with a defiant expression and rigid air that personifies the people’s stoic attitude and the harsh realities of living on a rocky outcropping above a wind-buffeted harbor. They were the same people Dali had used in his paintings going back a century. Fishermen, market women and sailors all hunched over against the wind, climbing the tortuous streets or perched precariously on the sea-worn rocks.

    A painting of a seaside landscape with people in the foregroundA painting of a seaside landscape with people in the foreground
    ‘Cadaqués,’ (1923). Collection of The Dalí Museum, St. Petersburg, FL (USA); Gift of A. Reynolds & Eleanor Morse

    Was there ever a painter so attached to a specific landscape, one town, one single rock? Again and again, we see the shallow bay, the white-washed cluster of buildings huddled against the bare cliffs and the point of Angel Rock in the distance. Often when the coast isn’t the setting of Dali’s paintings then the arid planes and wind sculpted rocks of the Paratge de Tudela are. Whether it’s stilt-legged tigers eating like-legged elephants or Christopher Columbus discovering the new world, it’s all happening in Cadaqués.

    I was left with a chicken and egg question. Is it Dali’s legacy of being an outcast, unique and stand-alone, that influences the attitude of the town, or was it the individualism, stoicism and rebellious spirit of the town that made Dali what he was? Or was it just kismet—did Dali find just the right place on earth to unleash his particular kind of genius as seems the case with so many others over time? He wasn’t a fisherman or a sailor but he was a proud Catalan and seemingly a natural Cadaquésenc who lived their motto. Us with us, indeed.

    A rocky outcropping on the seaA rocky outcropping on the sea
    Inspiration for ‘The Great Masturbator,'(1929)? J. McMahon

    Arts Travelogue: Finding Dali in Cadaqués



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    J. McMahon

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