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  • When and How to Plant Roses in the Fall | Gardener’s Path

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    Planting perennials like roses in the fall is my secret weapon.

    Okay, so it’s not exactly a secret, but even though it’s finally getting more recognition as a smart gardening practice, I’m surprised at how many people avoid it.

    Every time I sweep up piles of discounted plants during the autumn when nurseries are clearing out their inventory, gardeners ask me if it’s really a good time to plant.

    The answer is: yes!

    Roses are particularly well suited to fall planting. They tend to benefit immensely, and you can pay a quarter of the price for plants that you might be charged during the spring.

    A close up horizontal image of bright red roses growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of bright red roses growing in the garden.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    You’ve no doubt noticed that nurseries put many plants on clearance in the autumn.

    A lot of gardeners may assume that means that it’s not a good time of year to plant, so that’s why the stores are trying to get rid of their inventory.

    But that’s not true! For many perennials, fall is actually a perfect time to plant.

    The weather is mild, the plants get a head-start before the next growing season, and there’s usually more rain in the forecast.

    Are you convinced? Here’s what we’ll cover to help you make the most of the autumn rose-planting season:

    One quick note: because most roses sold in the fall are actively growing potted specimens rather than bare root plants, we’ll focus on planting container roses here.

    But you can use the following steps for bare roots, as well.

    If you’re ready to take advantage of those bargains and the lovely, mild weather, then let’s not wait any longer. Here we go!

    Pros and Cons of Fall Planting

    Planting in the spring can be a bit of a challenge.

    The soil might be soggy from all those spring showers, or you might have to wait until later in the season than is ideal because the earth is still frozen for a time after the winter season has passed.

    In the autumn, the soil is usually drier and warmer, so it’s easy to work.

    A close up horizontal image of a rose shrub in autumn, pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a rose shrub in autumn, pictured on a soft focus background.

    The weather is also milder, you typically see more rain than you would during the summer in many regions, and you (usually) don’t have to worry about a surprise heatwave toasting your rose bush.

    Another benefit is that you can often find certain varieties of plants at a lower price. The majority of people aren’t doing their garden shopping in the fall, and most nurseries offer an end-of-season discount.

    Roses that are put in the ground in the autumn will usually bloom earlier than those planted in the spring.

    When you put a rose in the ground in the spring, it takes a few months to become established and send out blossoms, whereas those planted in October or November have already had time to get settled and are ready to grow when spring arrives.

    On the negative side, if you have an unusually wet autumn or an early unexpected freeze, you might lose your plants. You will also typically find a smaller selection of plants to choose from.

    As a quick side note, you might opt to prep your garden bed in the fall and wait to plant in the spring if you can’t find the plant you want, or if you end up not being able to get your plants into the ground in time.

    That way, you still get some of the benefits of planting in the autumn.

    When to Plant in the Fall

    Don’t stick your plants in the ground mere days before the first expected frost. Your roses won’t have time to get settled in and become established before the harsh winter weather hits.

    A close up horizontal image of rose hips growing on the shrub covered with a light frost.A close up horizontal image of rose hips growing on the shrub covered with a light frost.

    The right time to plant is about six weeks before the first predicted frost date in the fall.

    This gives them time to establish roots so they have the best chance of surviving the winter and emerging in spring.

    Don’t plant too early, though. While there’s a good chance your rose will survive, you do run the risk of killing it if you plant in the heat of late summer.

    Steps to Take for Fall Planting

    You can absolutely plant a live rose in the fall, but keep in mind that dormant bare root plants are a safer bet. They’re less shocked by the transition. That said, they can be difficult to find in the fall.

    With that in mind, here’s how to get the garden ready for your new rose:

    Prep the planting hole as you would in the spring. That means selecting the right spot before you do anything else.

    Keep in mind that the current light exposure in the spot you select might be different in the spring and summer than it is in the fall.

    For tips on picking the right spot, we have a helpful guide.

    Then, figure out if you need to do any work on your soil. If you have heavy clay or sandy soil, you’ll need to work in plenty of well-rotted compost to improve drainage or water retention.

    A close up horizontal image of a shovel digging a hole in the garden for planting.A close up horizontal image of a shovel digging a hole in the garden for planting.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Once you’ve got the spot picked out and the soil amended, dig your hole about twice as wide and just a touch deeper than the container that your rose came in.

    Mix a bunch of well-rotted compost into the removed soil.

    Fill the hole with water and wait for it to drain. This should take about an hour or less.

    If there is still water in the hole, this means you have poorly draining soil. To fix it, either dig several feet down and work in even more well-rotted compost, or consider creating a raised bed.

    Place a little bit of the removed soil and compost mixture in the bottom of the hole so your plant will sit at the right height.

    In USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and up, that means placing the bud union or crown just above the soil level.

    In Zones 6 and below, position the crown or bud union an inch or two below the soil surface.

    A close up horizontal image of two hands from the right of the frame planting a rose bush into the garden.A close up horizontal image of two hands from the right of the frame planting a rose bush into the garden.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Create a little cone at the bottom of the hole so that the roots have something to sit over, and to help guide root growth in the right direction.

    Spread the roots out gently and place the plant in the hole. Take care to spread the roots over the cone that you made so they will grow down rather than out.

    A close up horizontal image of a shovel from the right of the frame backfilling soil around a newly planted rose shrub.A close up horizontal image of a shovel from the right of the frame backfilling soil around a newly planted rose shrub.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Fill in around the roots with the soil and compost mixture. Water to settle the soil, and add more soil if needed to level out the hole.

    Care Tips

    Prune the plant back by a third after you put it in the ground. You don’t want any flowers or hips taking up your plant’s energy. You should also prune away any dead or yellow foliage or stems.

    A close up horizontal image of a hand from the right of the frame holding a pair of secateurs pruning a rose shrub in fall, pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a hand from the right of the frame holding a pair of secateurs pruning a rose shrub in fall, pictured on a soft focus background.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Plants that have been hanging out at a garden center all summer might have a few dead bits, but as long as the overall plant looks healthy, you don’t need to worry.

    While the fall is typically rainier than the summer in most regions, you still want to keep an eye on the moisture level of the soil.

    You don’t need to give them as much as you would in the summer, but you still don’t want your plants to dry out. That’s not a good way to set them up for success.

    If nature doesn’t step up, give your roses water whenever the top inch of the soil feels dry.

    Don’t fertilize your new plant. You don’t want to encourage it to start growing. Instead, you want it to hunker down, become established, and get ready to go dormant.

    Put a ton of mulch around your rose. This will help to protect it throughout the cold season ahead.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener tying up a rose shrub with wire to prepare the plant for winter.A close up horizontal image of a gardener tying up a rose shrub with wire to prepare the plant for winter.

    Use several inches of a natural mulch such as straw, bark, or well-rotted manure, and heap it a third of the way up the canes. Remove it in the spring when the ground has warmed up.

    If the shrub you planted is particularly large or the canes are spaced far apart, you might want to tie some twine around the canes for support.

    Don’t Forget Fall for Planting Roses

    In some ways, fall planting is easier than planting in the spring. That alone makes it worth your while.

    A close up horizontal image of a rose shrub with bright red flowers growing in the fall garden.A close up horizontal image of a rose shrub with bright red flowers growing in the fall garden.

    Add to that the money you’ll be able to save, and why wouldn’t you take advantage of the autumn planting season?

    Be sure to come back and let us know in the comments section below how it all went. Pictures of your spring blossoms are especially welcome!

    And now that you’ve gotten your plants in the ground, read some of our other articles about growing roses to help you get a head start on the next growing season:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • 23 of the Best Rose Varieties for Creating a Hedge

    23 of the Best Rose Varieties for Creating a Hedge

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    10. Julia Child

    A rose truly befitting everyone’s favorite French chef, Julia Child™ is a floribunda that has large, full flowers in a yellow hue that would make its butter-loving namesake proud.

    It’s resistant to mildew, tolerates heat, and is hardy enough to thrive in Zones 5b to 10a.

    A square image of a 'Julia Child' shrub in full bloom.

    Julia Child™

    The flowers appear in clusters or singly throughout the season. Take a deep inhale when they’re in bloom and enjoy the strong, anise-like scent.

    It grows to about three feet tall and a touch less wide. Start your garden cooking by snagging a few at Nature Hills in #3 containers.

    11. Ketchup and Mustard

    The vibrant blend of red and mustard yellow on this floribunda is enough to make you hungry.

    The tops of the petals are true red, with deep yellow on the undersides, creating a unique, dimensional, multi-color appeal.

    Each flower is medium and double, with a mild apple scent. They grow in small clusters in flushes from spring through fall.

    A square image of a bouquet of 'Ketchup and Mustard' roses pictured on a soft focus background.A square image of a bouquet of 'Ketchup and Mustard' roses pictured on a soft focus background.

    ‘Ketchup and Mustard’

    The shrub can grow up to five feet tall and about three feet wide, and is drought-tolerant.

    You can find ‘Ketchup and Mustard’ plants in three-gallon containers for growing in Zones 5 to 9 at Fast Growing Trees.

    12. Lady of Shalott

    ‘Lady of Shalott’ is resistant to many fungal diseases, with the exception of black spot, while performing reliably year after year with orange-apricot-salmon blossoms.

    The very full flowers of this David Austin rose are medium-sized and grow in small clusters, which repeat from spring through fall.

    You can snip clusters off your hedge to use in cut flower arrangements and enjoy the apple and clove fragrance indoors. Or, leave them in place and let them fill your garden with their heavenly scent.

    A close up of 'Lady of Shalott' roses in full bloom growing as a hedge.A close up of 'Lady of Shalott' roses in full bloom growing as a hedge.

    ‘Lady of Shalott’

    You can also choose how tall you let this shrub grow. It will reach up to eight feet tall if you give it support.

    Otherwise, it can grow to about six feet tall before the branches start to arch and weep.

    Hardy in Zones 5 to 10, it’s available as a bare root at Burpee.

    13. Mister Lincoln

    It seems like anytime I make a list of roses to recommend, ‘Mister Lincoln’ shows up somewhere on it.

    Best red roses? Best fragrance? Disease resistance? Perfect for a hedge? Check, check, check, and check.

    In this case, ‘Mister Lincoln’ fills the bill with its dense growth, sturdy, upright canes, and tough personality.

    The very large, full, deep red roses that bloom in flushes look like they’re made out of velvet on a shrub that can grow a bit over six feet tall and half as wide, making it a perfect option for a taller hedge.

    A close up square image of a single 'Mister Lincoln' rose pictured on a soft focus background.A close up square image of a single 'Mister Lincoln' rose pictured on a soft focus background.

    ‘Mister Lincoln’

    It’s suitable for Zones 7 to 10.

    You can find ‘Mister Lincoln’ available in #2 containers at Nature Hills Nursery.

    14. Olivia Rose Austin

    ‘Olivia Rose Austin’ looks like a delicate flower with her pale pink, large, very full blossoms with cupped outer petals and ruffled inner petals.

    The blossoms are sometimes mistaken for peonies, but the fragrance is all floral.

    A horizontal image of pink 'Olivia Austin' roses growing in the garden.A horizontal image of pink 'Olivia Austin' roses growing in the garden.

    Underneath that delicate exterior is one tough cookie.

    This David Austin shrub is incredibly tough, resistant to most fungal diseases, grows vigorously to just under five feet tall and wide, and can thrive in Zones 5 to 11, making it ideal as a carefree hedge.

    15. Pinkerbelle

    This blush pink Meilland hybrid tea has pale petals rimmed with a darker pink border. The flowers are large and very full, appearing singly on long, strong stems.

    If you made a wish for a dense grower that puts out fragrant blooms in flushes and can reach up to six feet tall in Zones 5 to 9, your wish is granted.

    A square image of 'Pinkerbelle' roses growing in the garden.A square image of 'Pinkerbelle' roses growing in the garden.

    Pinkerbelle™

    You don’t need a magic wand or fairy dust to add this beauty to your garden.

    Visit Fast Growing Trees to find one of your own in two- or three-gallon containers.

    16. Poet’s Wife

    If you’re a David Austin fan, this one should be on your list for planting a hedge.

    ‘Poet’s Wife’ has an upright growth habit with strong canes that grow up to four feet tall and just a touch less wide.

    When in bloom, which occurs in flushes throughout the season, the large, very full flowers grow in small clusters of buttery yellow blossoms that fade to creamy yellow as they age.

    A vertical image of a bouquet of yellow 'Poet's Wife' blooms pictured on a soft focus background.A vertical image of a bouquet of yellow 'Poet's Wife' blooms pictured on a soft focus background.

    ‘Poet’s Wife’

    It’s a feast for the senses in more than one way, with a heady lemon fragrance.

    Gardeners in Zones 6 to 9 should visit Burpee to pick up a few for their garden hedge.

    17. Princess Alexandra of Kent

    If fragrance is high on your list for your hedge, ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ is an exceptional and prolific option.

    This David Austin rose has huge, bright pink, very full flowers that grow in clusters throughout the season.

    A close up horizontal image of a single 'Princess Alexandra' bloom with foliage in soft focus in the background.A close up horizontal image of a single 'Princess Alexandra' bloom with foliage in soft focus in the background.

    Then there’s the fragrance. It’s a perfect blend of lemon and rose, and you can catch it on the breeze even when you aren’t anywhere near the plant – that’s how strong it is.

    ’Princess Alexandra of Kent’ grows well in Zones 4b to 8b and is resistant to fungal diseases.

    18. Princess Charlene de Monaco

    I have abused my poor Princess Charlene de Monaco®. I originally had her in a large container, then decided I wanted her in the ground, realized I didn’t like where I’d put her, and then a tree branch fell on her.

    You’d think she would have called it a day by now, but she keeps on performing. And what a show!

    This hybrid tea Meilland rose has the palest peachy-pink large, very full double flowers that resemble peonies and appear in small clusters throughout the season.

    They don’t ball in rainy weather, have strong stems that don’t fall over, and the plant is resistant to fungal problems.

    A square image of the large pink, double 'Princess Charlene de Monaco' flowers.A square image of the large pink, double 'Princess Charlene de Monaco' flowers.

    Princess Charlene de Monaco®

    Princess Charlene de Monaco® can reach a bit over five feet tall and half as wide and doesn’t require much pruning to maintain its shape.

    If you live in Zones 5 to 10, head to Nature Hills to grab your own princess in a #3 container.

    19. Stiletto

    Any yard featuring a Stiletto™ hedge is going to be the talk of the town.

    The large, double flowers on this Meilland hybrid tea are a riot of color featuring carmine pink and dark red with purple shading that doesn’t fade with age.

    These flowers appear in continual flushes throughout the season and fill your garden with a strong old rose, fruity fragrance. They appear singly, which makes them ideal for cut flowers.

    A square image of a single deep pink 'Stiletto' rose growing in the garden pictured in light sunshine.A square image of a single deep pink 'Stiletto' rose growing in the garden pictured in light sunshine.

    Stiletto™

    The shrub is resistant to fungal diseases and can stretch all the way up to six feet tall without support. Suitable for cultivation Zones 6 to 9.

    You can find plants available in three-gallon containers at Fast Growing Trees.

    20. The Country Parson

    With a very English sounding name, this English rose by David Austin is no shrinking violet.

    The medium-sized, very full flowers look delicate with their pretty yellow hue, fruity fragrance, and intensely wrinkled petals, but this plant is a tough shrub.

    ‘The Country Parson’ produces continually from spring through fall on a vigorous shrub that can grow to about four feet tall. It’s disease-resistant and hardy enough for Zones 4 to 11.

    21. The Fairy

    Straight out of a fairytale, this polyantha has large clusters of small, double, ballerina pink blossoms that appear consistently throughout the season.

    If you get in close, you can enjoy the mild apple fragrance, and you might even spot a fairy flitting around. Or was that a butterfly?

    It grows about three to four feet tall and wide and resists common rose diseases like powdery mildew and black spot.

    In full sun locations, the flowers take on a pale pink, almost white hue as they age, but with a bit of afternoon shade they’ll stay a darker pink.

    A square image of light pink 'The Fairy' roses growing in the garden.A square image of light pink 'The Fairy' roses growing in the garden.

    ‘The Fairy’

    It’s also tough in cold weather, and able to thrive in Zones 4 to 9.

    You can find ‘The Fairy’ in #3 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    22. Twilight

    Your next stop: the ‘Twilight’ zone!

    This petite shrub grows to about three feet tall, so it is better for those who need a short hedge and is covered top-to-toe in piles of dark purple, large, very full blossoms that grow in clusters from spring through fall.

    The blossoms have an intense citrus-spice fragrance that fills your garden.

    A close up of a single deep purple 'Twilight' flower pictured in light sunshine on a soft focus background.A close up of a single deep purple 'Twilight' flower pictured in light sunshine on a soft focus background.

    ‘Twilight’

    It will tolerate partial shade and blooms right up to first frost in the fall.

    Enter the ‘Twilight’ zone by heading to Fast Growing Trees to pick a few up for your hedge.

    23. Winter Sunset

    You can capture the pale orangey-yellow of the sun setting in December with the Griffith Buck ‘Winter Sunset.’

    A close up horizontal image of a single 'Winter Sunset' rose pictured in light sunshine.A close up horizontal image of a single 'Winter Sunset' rose pictured in light sunshine.

    Growing up to five feet tall with dense, upright canes, this cultivar is draped in large, double blossoms with orange centers and pale yellow outer petals.

    It’s hardy in Zones 4 to 10 without protection and blooms continually from spring to the first frost.

    Roses Provide Privacy and Interest

    I have nothing against boxwoods and yews. They make delightful evergreen hedges, but they can’t give you the fragrance and color that a hedge of roses can.

    A horizontal image of a large hedge of roses in full bloom.A horizontal image of a large hedge of roses in full bloom.

    Are one of these options calling your name? Which cultivar best suits your hedging needs? Did I miss a particularly excellent choice? Let me know in the comments section below.

    I hope this guide set you on the right path with your garden design.

    Maybe you’d like more information about growing roses? If so, here are a few guides to get you started:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • How to Identify and Control Botrytis Blight in Roses

    How to Identify and Control Botrytis Blight in Roses

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    Botrytis cinerea

    There’s a lot to love about spring. How many poems wax lyrical about the flowers, the fragrance in the air, and the escape from the winter months? Who doesn’t love to head outside on the first warm days and bask in warmth?

    One of the few things I don’t enjoy about spring is that it’s the time when botrytis, also known as gray mold, strikes. This disease also loves to make a late-season autumn comeback, spoiling pumpkin spice season.

    You look at your roses expecting to see a big, colorful bunch of flowers, but instead, you see a brown, soggy mess.

    A horizontal photo of three red rose blooms with signs of botrytis on the petals.A horizontal photo of three red rose blooms with signs of botrytis on the petals.
    Photo credit: Dr. Parthasarathy Seethapathy, Amrita School of Agricultural Sciences, Bugwood.org

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    It’s not just home gardeners that face disappointing blossoms. Botrytis causes serious losses in the cut flower industry because it can destroy not just the blossoms on the plants but also those that have already been harvested.

    Hybrid tea roses are particularly susceptible to this disease.

    In this guide, we’re going to talk about how gray mold affects your roses, the life cycle of the pathogen, and what you can do to control and prevent infection.

    What Is Botrytis?

    Botrytis is a fungal disease caused by the pathogen Botrytis cinerea, a species of necrotrophic fungus, which means that it kills its host rather than keeping it alive.

    A horizontal photo of a dead rose covered with gray mold infection.A horizontal photo of a dead rose covered with gray mold infection.

    This pathogen loves roses, but it can also attack other garden plants, such as dahlias, gladiolus, grapevines, marigolds, peonies, strawberries, and tulips. In total, it can infect over 200 species.

    It’s genetically plastic, which means it adapts easily. And that’s bad news because the pathogen can adapt to and become resistant to fungicides.

    Identification

    If the weather is always dry and hot in your region, don’t bother worrying about botrytis. This is a disease that requires cool, wet weather.

    A horizontal photo of a red rose that has been infected with botrytis blight, otherwise known as gray mold along the petals of the rose.A horizontal photo of a red rose that has been infected with botrytis blight, otherwise known as gray mold along the petals of the rose.
    Photo credit: Dr. Parthasarathy Seethapathy, Amrita School of Agricultural Sciences, Bugwood.org

    There are a few symptoms that make this disease obvious.

    The flowers might be balled and fail to open, with or without a grayish-brown growth. Or they might be slightly open with lots of soggy, brown petals.

    At the base of the flower you’ll typically see dark lesions, and these can also appear on the stems. In advanced cases, the canes may go dark and necrotic.

    If the pathogen enters the cane through insect damage or pruning cuts, it might cause the entire cane to die. You’ll often see spores surrounding the area where the fungus entered the plant.

    The most common symptom, though, is browning petals and buds covered with a gray fuzz.

    Biology and Life Cycle

    When temperatures are around 60 to 75°F and humidity is above 93 percent, the pathogen starts to reproduce.

    It can survive in hotter weather, so long as there is adequate humidity, but it can’t reproduce as quickly. In the absence of high humidity, water droplets can serve as a carrier for the pathogen.

    A horizontal photo of a red rose damaged by botrytis blight.A horizontal photo of a red rose damaged by botrytis blight.
    Photo credit: Dr. Parthasarathy Seethapathy, Amrita School of Agricultural Sciences, Bugwood.org

    Greenhouses create particularly favorable conditions for an outbreak of this disease as they’re generally in this temperature range with plenty of humidity.

    The fungus forms gray asexual spores – known as conidia – on hosts, as well as food reserves in the form of hardened mycelia aka hyphae called sclerotia.

    When the temperature rises rapidly and humidity drops, the spores are released into the air and can travel to other nearby hosts.

    These conditions often occur in the morning, so while the pathogen needs moisture to reproduce, it can spread even when conditions are temporarily dry.

    A horizontal photo of rose foliage rimmed with gray mold.A horizontal photo of rose foliage rimmed with gray mold.

    When conditions aren’t ideal, the fungus can survive on plant material, including bare root or dormant plants, or cut flowers, until the conditions are more optimal for reproduction. It can survive on garden detritus or the soil in resilient sclerotia.

    The pathogen can be spread via air, on tools, clothing, and on plant material.

    Organic Control Methods

    When it comes to controlling the disease with commercial fungicide products, you’ll need to choose at least two – ideally three or four – to use on rotation to try and prevent fungicide resistance.

    A horizontal photo of a yellowing rose infected with botrytis.A horizontal photo of a yellowing rose infected with botrytis.
    Photo credit: Dr. Parthasarathy Seethapathy, Amrita School of Agricultural Sciences, Bugwood.org

    Adhere to the manufacturer’s recommended application rates and timing, but when it’s time to repeat the application, use a different product. Follow that with a different product, if you have it, and another after that.

    At a minimum, you’ll need to rotate between two fungicide products.

    Sadly, there aren’t any resistant cultivars available yet, but breeders are still working on it and maybe someday we’ll have a rose that is resistant to botrytis.

    In the meantime, here’s how you can deal with the problem:

    Cultural

    If you are still watering your roses from overhead using sprinklers or a hose, stop immediately.

    I can’t tell you how many problems you can avoid by watering at the soil level rather than on the foliage. And that includes botrytis blight.

    You can also reduce the incidence of this disease by keeping your roses appropriately spaced and well pruned to increase airflow and reduce the ability of the fungus to reproduce.

    Physical

    The most important step in controlling this disease is to remove every symptomatic part of the plant. Yes, that might mean pruning off all the flowers and half the canes, but if you don’t do this, your rose will remain infected.

    If you catch it early, you might only need to remove a few buds or stems. That’s why you should be scanning your plants every few days throughout the growing season, but especially when it’s cool and wet.

    Clean up any plant debris around your roses and don’t allow even a single leaf to remain on the ground, as detritus can harbor the pathogen.

    Biological

    I have had multiple rose plants infected with botrytis, and every time, I rely on Mycostop to get rid of it.

    So far, this product has always worked when used in rotation with other fungicides. Mycostop contains a bacteria found in sphagnum peat moss called Streptomyces strain K61.

    A square product photo of a card of Mycostop biofungicide against white background.A square product photo of a card of Mycostop biofungicide against white background.

    Mycostop Biofungicide

    You can pick up five- or 25-gram packets at Arbico Organics.

    Mix it with water and only make enough to treat the number of roses you’re working with and saturate the plants completely.

    Then, soak the soil underneath and around the plants to kill any pathogens in there, as well.

    Refrigerate any leftover product because it doesn’t last long and you’ll need to use it several more times.

    Another biological option is one of the products developed in recent years to target gray mold.

    CEASE is a product formulated specifically for dealing with botrytis. It harnesses the beneficial bacteria Bacillus subtilis. It’s spendy, but effective.

    A square product photo of a jog of CEASE biofungicide against a white backgroudnd.A square product photo of a jog of CEASE biofungicide against a white backgroudnd.

    CEASE

    You can also find CEASE available at Arbico Organics.

    Fungicides

    As I’ve mentioned, you absolutely must rotate your fungicides. If you decide to use Mycostop or CEASE, you’ll want to use one or both of the following products in between.

    Bonide Fung-onil is an effective product that contains chlorothalonil, a broad spectrum chemical fungicide.

    Bonide Fung-onil

    It’s available in a 16- and 32-ounce concentrate at many garden stores or via Amazon.

    Copper fungicide is less effective, but it can work well in combination with other products. I wouldn’t rely on it alone, however.

    I find that copper fungicide stops the disease from progressing but it doesn’t result in noticeably healthier growth like the other products on this list do.

    Still, since we need to use several products, it’s worth including in your rotation.

    A vertical product photo of Bonide Copper Fungicide bottle on a white background.A vertical product photo of Bonide Copper Fungicide bottle on a white background.

    Bonide Copper Fungicide

    Arbico Organics carries powdered copper fungicide in one- and four-pound containers.

    Gray Mold Be Gone!

    Botrytis is a beast of a disease. It’s a challenge to deal with because the causal pathogen is so adaptable.

    But we have learned that rotating fungicide products to stay one step ahead of the pathogen is an effective treatment method. If you catch it early, you might be able to stop the disease and see new, healthy growth on your roses in just a month or two.

    A horizontal photo of a bouquet roses many petals infected with gray mold.A horizontal photo of a bouquet roses many petals infected with gray mold.
    Photo credit: Dr. Parthasarathy Seethapathy, Amrita School of Agricultural Sciences, Bugwood.org

    Be sure to prune out any symptomatic tissue because it won’t recover and it will allow the disease to spread.

    What symptoms are you seeing on your roses? Are you unsure if it’s botrytis? Let us know what you’re dealing with in the comments and we’ll see if we can help.

    And for more information about growing roses in your garden, check out these guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • 33 of the Best Red Rose Varieties to Grow at Home

    33 of the Best Red Rose Varieties to Grow at Home

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    The red rose is a classic that represents romance and desire. What would Valentine’s Day be without a dozen of them, and is any rose lover’s garden complete without a red rose or two?

    Of course, there are a lot of options out there, from climbers that will cover a fence or cling to a wall to ground covers that will add interest to a sunny patch of the garden.

    A close up horizontal image of bright red roses growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of bright red roses growing in the garden.

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    If you like simple, single blossoms, you’ve got options, and if you prefer the big, frilly flowers, there are plenty of those to choose from as well.

    In this guide, we’ll give you those and more, from fragrant climbers to modest shrubs and everything in between.

    Here’s the list of my very favorite red roses, coming right up:

    Before we look at some of these stunning varieties, let’s clarify a few terms.

    When we talk about blossom size, “small” refers to flowers under four inches in diameter, “medium” are four to five inches, and “large” are five inches or more.

    A close up horizontal image of a cluster of 'Don Juan' roses growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a cluster of 'Don Juan' roses growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

    Blossoms are also categorized by the number of petals which determines how “full” the flowers appear. Singles have four to eight petals, semi-double have nine to 16, double have 17 to 25, full have 25 to 40, and very full have 41 or more petals.

    We’ll also note which of these rose varieties bloom in flushes and those that are continual bloomers. The former are those that produce a whole bunch of flowers all at once and then stop blooming for a few weeks before another round of blooms appears.

    Continual bloomers will have fewer flowers, but they will be present throughout the growing season.

    To familiarize yourself with the different rose classifications, read our comprehensive guide to learn more about the difference between a floribunda and a miniflora rose.

    If you need cultivation details, our guide to growing roses has you covered.

    With that out of the way, let’s dive into our list of the best red roses for your garden! Let’s start with one of my favorites:

    1. Alec’s Red

    I can highly recommend ‘Alec’s Red,’ aka Rosa ‘COred.’

    The buds on this four-foot-tall hybrid tea shrub rose start out so dark that they appear almost black. As the large, full flowers open, the petals show their true cherry hue.

    A close up horizontal image of the bright blooms of 'Alec's Red' growing in the garden pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of the bright blooms of 'Alec's Red' growing in the garden pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

    As if that wasn’t enough, the blooms have a heady damask fragrance and appear constantly from late spring to the first frost.

    It’s a lovely container or border option for Zones 5b to 10b.

    2. Benjamin Britten

    The David Austin shrub ‘Benjamin Britten’ (aka R. ‘AUSencart’) is a repeat bloomer, which is always welcome, but what makes it really shine is the ever-changing color of the flowers.

    The medium-sized, very full flowers start out orangish-red when they first open but gradually shift to pure red and then pinkish-red as they fade.

    A close up horizontal image of a single 'Benjamin Britten' rose flower growing in the garden with droplets of water on the petals, pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a single 'Benjamin Britten' rose flower growing in the garden with droplets of water on the petals, pictured on a soft focus background.

    The fragrance is stunning, like a mixture of fruit and wine.

    ‘Benjamin Britten’ has a dense growth habit and tops out at about four and a half feet tall. It’s hardy in Zones 4 to 11.

    The downside is that the flowers can tend to ball if you experience wet spring weather.

    3. Black Beauty

    Georges Delbard, a well-known breeder in France, bred this blood-red hybrid tea in 1973 and it has remained a favorite for gardeners who want a rose with blossoms so dark they’re nearly black.

    The buds are nearly black, as well. The four-foot-tall shrub blooms in flushes with large, double flowers all season in Zones 6 to 10.

    It’s ideal as a cut flower for your gothic sweetheart, in containers, or as a garden specimen.

    4. Blaze Improved

    If you’re looking for a classic floribunda climber, R. ‘Demokracie,’ better known as ‘Blaze Improved,’ has a lot to offer.

    This one features large double flowers in small clusters that appear in flushes throughout the growing season without any deadheading.

    Given a support to climb, it can stretch up to 15 feet tall and given the moderate floral fragrance of the crimson blossoms, it makes quite the statement.

    It was brought to us by breeder Jan Böhm of the former Czechoslovakia in 1935, and introduced by Jackson & Perkins in 1950. ‘Blaze Improved’ thrives in Zones 5 to 9.

    A square image of 'Blaze Improved' growing up and over an arbor in the backyard.A square image of 'Blaze Improved' growing up and over an arbor in the backyard.

    ‘Blaze Improved’

    It’s easy to see why this is one of the most popular crimson climbers, and you can find one of your own at Fast Growing Trees in a three-gallon container.

    5. Braveheart

    ‘Braveheart’ was bred by noted rosarian and Small World Miniature Roses founder John Clements of St. Paul, Oregon.

    He started breeding in the late 1970s with a focus on English roses to create fragrant and disease-resistant specimens.

    A close up of a bright red flower bud pictured on a green soft focus background.A close up of a bright red flower bud pictured on a green soft focus background.

    This shrub type hit the market in 1998 with four-inch, double flowers with the classic bloom shape. It is a repeat bloomer in Zones 5b to 10b and grows up to three feet tall.

    The blood-red petals are velvety with a moderate fragrance and the flowers appear in repeated flushes throughout the summer.

    6. Bright Melody

    Before we talk about this rose, I want to mention a bit about the breeder Griffith Buck. We have an entire guide about Dr. Buck and his roses, but I’ll do a little recap here.

    Dr. Buck was a professor and horticulturist at Iowa State University in the 1940s and 50s.

    He bred roses with the goal of creating hardy, disease-resistant plants, and he did this by propagating the plants in his Iowa garden and then weeding out any that failed to thrive without chemical intervention or coddling.

    He also wanted the roses he bred to be repeat bloomers.

    His first commercial success was ‘Carefree Beauty,’ bred in the 1970s, and after that many other cultivars became popular.

    Because he didn’t turn to the large commercial growers or patent his roses, he never achieved the big-name status of some of the brands out there, but you better believe his plants are every bit as marvelous.

    More so, if you ask me, because you can use them to breed, and they’re much more beautiful than a certain common brand also known for being easy to care for.

    That brings us to ‘Bright Melody,’ which sings with medium-sized, bright ruby-red flowers that appear continually on the four-foot-tall hybrid tea, singly or in groups of up to 25. It’s hardy in Zones 4b to 10.

    The double flowers have a moderate floral fragrance, similar to its parent ‘Carefree Beauty.’

    7. Don Juan

    Hybrid tea ‘Don Juan’ was hybridized in 1958 by breeder Michele Malandrone and introduced to the United States in 1959 by Jackson & Perkins, who knew they were onto something good with this beauty.

    Climbing 14 feet or so tall, it’s covered in deep crimson, large, very full flowers that appear in flushes throughout the growing season in Zones 6b to 9b.

    A square image of 'Don Juan' roses growing in the backyard.A square image of 'Don Juan' roses growing in the backyard.

    ‘Don Juan’

    The blossoms have a heavenly fragrance of old rose and raspberry, and while it’s one of the best red climbers, the long stems also lend themselves nicely to cutting.

    You can find ‘Don Juan in #3 containers available from Nature Hills Nursery.

    8. El Catala

    Another beautiful offering from Dr. Griffith Buck, ‘El Catala’ is a bicolored hybrid tea shrub with ‘Wanderin’ Wind’ parentage, released in 1981.

    The petals are raspberry red with silver undersides, giving the plant a striking appearance.

    Hardy in Zones 5b to 10b, the three-foot-tall shrub blooms in continual flushes throughout the year, with the flowers appearing in groups of up to eight.

    It has a mild fragrance, but it’s the bicolored petals that really make these flowers sing.

    9. Firefighter

    Firefighter® (R. ‘ORAdal’) is a bold hybrid tea with large, fully double, velvety blooms.

    With few thorns and long canes, it’s perfect for cut flower arrangements and blooms continuously throughout the season, so you never have to go without.

    A close up horizontal image of a Firefighter red rose growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of a Firefighter red rose growing in the garden.

    Created by breeder Joseph Orard in France, this cultivar was introduced to the US by Edmunds’ Roses.

    The full flowers have petals that are darker on the top and slightly lighter on the undersides. They also have a strong strawberry, musk, old-rose fragrance.

    It’s hardy in Zones 6 to 10, with the ability to withstand hot weather and fungal disease on an attention-grabbing six-foot-tall shrub.

    A close up square image of a single 'Firefighter' red rose pictured on a soft focus background.A close up square image of a single 'Firefighter' red rose pictured on a soft focus background.

    Firefighter

    Named after the first responders who lost their lives in the September 11, 2001 attacks, it’s a beautiful way to pay homage to the selfless people who sacrifice themselves for others.

    You can find Firefighter® available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    10. Florentina

    Florentina™ Arborose® (R.’KORtrameilo’) comes from Kordes Roses and was bred by Tim Hermann Kordes in 2002 from two unnamed seedlings.

    A close up horizontal image of a Florentina Arborose flower pictured in bright sunshine pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a Florentina Arborose flower pictured in bright sunshine pictured on a soft focus background.

    The medium-sized flowers are raspberry red and very full with over 70 petals each. The outer petals are smooth and the inner ones are curled and ruffled around yellow stamens.

    While this climber usually only blooms once in the late spring or early summer, it may sometimes rebloom later in the year.

    When in bloom, the plant is so completely covered that you can hardly see the foliage underneath the flowers.

    A square image of red Florentina roses pictured in bright sunshine.A square image of red Florentina roses pictured in bright sunshine.

    Florentina Arborose

    This cultivar is resistant to fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew, hardy in Zones 5 to 9, and a polite climber that creeps up to nine feet tall.

    Its smaller size, for a climber, makes it perfect for growing in containers or smaller spots. Sound good? You can find Florentina™ Arborose® available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    11. Francois Rabelais

    The very full, cupped flowers of ‘Francois Rabelais’ appear in large clusters on a petite two- to three-foot-tall shrub.

    While they lack fragrance, the old-fashioned blossoms are a deep ruby red, and bloom in flushes throughout the season.

    Bred by Meilland Roses, this floribunda is hardy in Zones 6b to 10b and is extremely mildew resistant.

    The long, straight canes only have light prickles, making it perfect for cutting and flower arrangements.

    12. Grand Champion

    Meilland Roses can always be counted on for robust beauty, and ‘Grand Champion’ (aka R. ‘Meimacota’) does not disappoint.

    The medium-sized, very full crimson blossoms on a four-foot-tall shrub create an eye-catching background for a bed full of annuals or alone as a specimen planting.

    A square image of a small 'Grand Champion' rose bush growing in the backyard.A square image of a small 'Grand Champion' rose bush growing in the backyard.

    ‘Grand Champion’

    The mildly fragrant blossoms appear in flushes throughout the growing season even during mild drought or extreme heat.

    It won’t be troubled by fungal diseases and doesn’t need any deadheading to look its best.

    You can find this winner in three-gallon pots available at Fast Growing Trees.

    13. Griff’s Red

    ‘Griff’s Red’ is one of Dr. Griffith Buck’s most popular roses, as the red version of his perennial favorite ‘Carefree Beauty,’ and it’s easy to see why.

    The velvet crimson petals are held in large, full blossoms that appear continually throughout the growing season with a strong sweet-spicy fragrance.

    It’s exceptionally hardy north to Zone 4 and as far south as Zone 10 and, like all of Buck’s roses, is disease-resistant.

    ‘Griff’s Red’ grows up to four feet tall but typically stays a bit shorter. Even for the short period that it’s not in bloom, the glossy, deep green foliage is a treat.

    14. Julio Iglesias

    For something a little different, try ‘Julio Iglesias’ (‘Meistemon’). The petals are snow white or cream with fire engine red or mauve splotches and a strong, bright citrus fragrance.

    The flowers are full, medium-sized, and appear in clusters throughout the season on a three-foot shrub.

    The flowers have deeper, stronger coloring in bright, direct sun, so don’t grow this one in your partially sunny spots.

    A close up square image of bicolored white and red 'Julio Iglesias' rose pictured on a soft focus background.A close up square image of bicolored white and red 'Julio Iglesias' rose pictured on a soft focus background.

    ‘Julio Iglesias’

    Whether you grow this floribunda as a tree, in a container, or in a small group, it’s going to draw all the attention in Zones 6 to 9.

    Bring the party to your home and find ‘Julio Iglesias’ available at Planting Tree.

    15. Kashmir

    From the Easy Elegance® series, ‘Kashmir’ (R. BAImir) combines the disease-tolerance and ease of care of a modern rose with the appearance of a classic tea.

    This shrub rose grows to just shy of three feet tall, with crimson, medium-sized, very full flowers.

    A square image of Easy Elegance 'Kashmir' roses in full bloom in the garden.A square image of Easy Elegance 'Kashmir' roses in full bloom in the garden.

    ‘Kashmir’

    The solitary flowers appear in flushes from spring to the first frost in Zones 4 to 9 and won’t fade or discolor in the heat. And the long stems make it easy to use them in cut flower arrangements.

    If ‘Kashmir’ fits the bill, visit Nature Hills Nursery to bring one home.

    16. Love at First Sight

    It really is Love at First Sight™ (aka ‘WEKmedatasy’) when you see this cultivar.

    The petals of this hybrid tea are true red with pink undersides, giving the very full, medium-sized flowers a textured appearance.

    Each flower appears singly and the plant blooms in flushes from spring through fall.

    This hybrid tea is a cross between Memorial Day™ and Take It Easy™and is a recent introduction, hitting the US market in 2019.

    It has a very upright form and grows up to four feet tall, perfect for borders and containers.

    A square image of a single Love at First Sight pictured on a dark background.A square image of a single Love at First Sight pictured on a dark background.

    Love at First Sight

    Love at First Sight™is hardy in Zones 5b to 9b, and exhibits good disease resistance.

    You can find Love at First Sight™ available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    17. Mister Lincoln

    It almost feels a little unfair to put ‘Mister Lincoln’ up against the crowd because this cultivar has been a consistent favorite for decades and it’s pretty hard to beat.

    A close up horizontal image of a single 'Mister Lincoln' red rose pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a single 'Mister Lincoln' red rose pictured on a soft focus background.

    Named for the former US president, ‘Mister Lincoln’ is an extremely vigorous, disease-resistant shrub that tops out at about four feet tall in Zones 7 to 10.

    The very full, large blossoms are deep burgundy and appear singly on long stems that are perfect for cutting, and reappear in flushes throughout the growing season.

    Sun, heat, and rain won’t cause the flowers to fade or ball, and it’s so tough that beyond pruning, you can basically ignore this rose.

    Except you won’t be able to because the heady damask fragrance commands attention.

    A close up square image of a single 'Mister Lincoln' rose flower pictured on a soft focus background.A close up square image of a single 'Mister Lincoln' rose flower pictured on a soft focus background.

    ‘Mister Lincoln’

    If you want a hybrid tea that will always perform well with no muss and no fuss, ‘Mr. Lincoln’ should win your vote by a mile.

    You can find this cultivar in #2 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    18. Munstead Wood

    A favorite from David Austin, ‘Munstead Wood’ (R. ‘AUSbernard’) is a shrub with deep, dark, four-inch, very full flowers on a three-foot-tall plant.

    A close up horizontal image of a bright red 'Munstead Wood' pictured on a dark soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a bright red 'Munstead Wood' pictured on a dark soft focus background.

    The outer edges of the petals are just a touch lighter than they are at the center, giving them a textured appearance.

    The old-fashioned-looking flowers have a heady, classic rose fragrance with a hint of berry.

    Grow it in Zones 5 to 11 in the ground or containers for a timeless touch.

    19. Night Song

    This is a melody that hums rather than shouts. The flowers are large and full and may be solitary or in small bunches that appear in flushes throughout the year.

    The medium-sized bush grows to about four feet tall in Zones 5 to 10.

    This is where the music swells. The petals are dark cardinal red with just a hint of white at the base, enclosing yellow stamens.

    Punctuated against the glossy dark green foliage, it’s a top hit from Dr. Griffith Buck.

    20. Oh My!

    Bred by Christian Bedard and released by Weeks Roses in 2009, Oh My!™(R. ‘WEKcisfribo’) has deep, velvety ruby petals cupping golden anthers, all with a mild, spicy, rose fragrance.

    The medium-sized double blossoms are borne singly and bloom continuously from spring through fall.

    A close up square image of Oh My! roses growing in the backyard.A close up square image of Oh My! roses growing in the backyard.

    Oh My!

    This floribunda type grows in Zones 4b to 10b, but the color and flowering are best in climates with coolish summers. It has exceptional disease resistance and tops out at about four feet tall.

    You can find plants available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    21. Oklahoma

    With velvety petals so deeply colored that they’re almost maroon or black, depending on the light, ‘Oklahoma’ is a beautiful hybrid tea with a sweet, floral fragrance.

    The large flowers appear repeatedly throughout the growing season on a commanding shrub that can grow up to eight feet tall. You can also treat it as a small climber if that’s your fancy.

    A square image of a single 'Oklahoma' bloom growing in the garden.A square image of a single 'Oklahoma' bloom growing in the garden.

    ‘Oklahoma’

    Bred by Weeks Roses in 1964, ‘Oklahoma’ is a vigorous plant suitable for Zones 7 to 10 and exhibits excellent resistance to fungal diseases.

    Additionally, it has long stems that make it suitable for a cutting garden.

    Walmart carries this lovely option as a bare root.

    22. Olympiad

    For a true red with a classic rose look, the hybrid tea ’Olympiad’ aka ‘MACauck’ is the way to go.

    The medium-sized, full blossoms appear singly on the five-foot-tall shrub in flushes from late spring to the first frost.

    The fruity fragrance makes it a wonder as a cut flower in a vase or growing near your patio or garden bench.

    A close up square image of a single red 'Olympiad' rose pictured on a soft focus background.A close up square image of a single red 'Olympiad' rose pictured on a soft focus background.

    ‘Olympiad’

    ‘Olympiad’ won the All-American Rose Selections honors category in 1984 and was featured at the Olympics that year. Grow it in Zones 5 to 8.

    You can find ‘Olympiad’ available at Planting Tree.

    23. Oso Easy Double Red

    A cheerful, carefree Meilland offering, Oso Easy Double Red® has medium crimson double blossoms that grow in small clusters and appear in flushes throughout the season.

    The shrub stays under three feet tall and lives up to its name with good disease resistance, no need for deadheading, and little pruning required.

    A close up of an 'Oso Easy' rose shrub growing in the garden.A close up of an 'Oso Easy' rose shrub growing in the garden.

    Oso Easy Double Red

    The clusters are held on long stems, ideal for cutting, and this cultivar is cold hardy enough to thrive in Zones 4 to 9.

    Nab yourself a live plant from Burpee.

    24. Prairie Clogger

    With petals the color of the deepest ruby offset by bright yellow stamens and deep copper and olive-green foliage, ‘Prairie Clogger’ grabs your attention.

    It’s also a delight for the nose with its sweet, floral fragrance. The medium-sized flowers grow in clusters of up to 10 in repeated flushes from spring through the first frost.

    A close up horizontal image of the center of a 'Prairie Clogger' flower pictured in bright sunshine.A close up horizontal image of the center of a 'Prairie Clogger' flower pictured in bright sunshine.

    The four-foot shrub is resistant to fungal diseases and hardy in Zones 4 to 10.

    ‘Prairie Clogger’ is another offering from Griffith Buck, and you know how I feel about his roses. It’s a hybrid between his ‘Carefree Beauty’ and Kordes’ ‘Marlena’ x ‘Pippa’s Song.’

    25. Red Double Knock Out

    For a long time, the easygoing, disease-resistant Knock Out series of roses consisted of small shrubs with single blossoms. That was fine for those who didn’t crave the elegance of fuller flowers, but the rest of us were left out of the party.

    But in 2004, ‘Radtko,’ commonly known as the Red Double Knock Out rose, roared onto the US market and quickly became a firm favorite.

    The small to medium double blossoms are crimson with a mild spicy fragrance. The impact is made even more impressive as the flowers appear in large groups continuously from spring until the first frost.

    Double Red Knock Out is also extremely tough, suitable for cultivation in Zones 4 to 9.

    A square image of Red Double Knock Out roses growing in the garden.A square image of Red Double Knock Out roses growing in the garden.

    Red Double Knock Out

    If you love the Knock Out series but want a more impressive display, this one is a TKO.

    Nab one in a quart-sized or #3 container, or as a bare root from Nature Hills Nursery.

    26. Red Drift

    The Red Drift® rose (R. ’Meigalpio’) comes from Meilland Roses and has become a wildly popular option since its release in 2008 for those who crave a ground cover with ruby-colored blossoms.

    The buds start out pinky-red but quickly transition to their mature shade on a short bush that tops out at 16 inches or so.

    A square image of Red Drift roses growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.A square image of Red Drift roses growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

    Red Drift

    The small blossoms are semi-double and though they’re petite, they group together in large clusters that blanket the bush throughout the growing season.

    Red Drift® is disease-resistant and hardy in Zones 4 to 10.

    You can find plants in one-, two-, and three-gallon containers available at Planting Tree.

    27. Red Eden

    ‘Red Eden’ (R. ‘MEIdrason’) was bred by Alain Meilland of Meilland Roses.

    It’s a climber that sports clusters of large, full blossoms in deep crimson that appear in flushes throughout the season.

    A close up horizontal image of a single 'Red Eden' bloom pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of a single 'Red Eden' bloom pictured on a soft focus background.

    The old-fashioned blooms have smooth outer petals and ruffled inner petals held in cupped blossoms with a moderate fragrance.

    Once the flowering season ends, the large orange hips add further ornamental interest.

    The shrub can grow up to 15 feet long in Zones 6 to 9 but watch out if you live in an area prone to wet weather in spring, as this can cause the flowers to ball.

    28. Showbiz

    A classic crimson floribunda, Showbiz aka ‘TANweike,’ has medium, double blossoms that bloom in large clusters.

    The petite shrub clocks in at just two feet tall, but it can be positively smothered in flushes of flowers that appear throughout the season.

    A close up square image of Showbiz roses pictured on a soft focus background.A close up square image of Showbiz roses pictured on a soft focus background.

    Showbiz

    That’s showbiz, baby! If you live in Zones 6 to 9, bring this superstar to your stage from Nature Hills Nursery.

    29. Smokin’ Hot

    Keep the fire extinguisher nearby, because ‘Smokin’ Hot’ (R. ‘WEKmopaga’) is bringing the fire.

    With orange-red petals tinged in burgundy and pale pink on the undersides, it’s like staring into the embers of a wildfire.

    This hybrid tea was bred by Christain Bedard and introduced by Weeks Roses in 2015, and while the flowers don’t have any fragrance, the plant makes up for it with deep burgundy-tinged foliage that smolders just as beautifully as the large, double flowers.

    A square image of three 'Smokin' Hot' rose flowers with foliage in soft focus background.A square image of three 'Smokin' Hot' rose flowers with foliage in soft focus background.

    ‘Smokin’ Hot’

    The four-foot-tall shrub thrives in Zones 4 to 10 and can be found at Nature Hills Nursery in #2 containers.

    30. Top Gun

    Better than Maverick pulling some incredible aerial stunts, R. ‘WEKmoridahor’ aka Top Gun™ is going to catch all the attention without all the muss and fuss (or annoying the Navy).

    The vigorous shrub is extremely disease-resistant (including rose rosette disease!) and hardy in Zones 4b to 10a.

    A square image of a cluster of single 'Top Gun' roses growing in the garden.A square image of a cluster of single 'Top Gun' roses growing in the garden.

    Top Gun

    The ruby-red medium blossoms are semi-double, with a moderate fragrance of fruit.

    It was bred by Tom Caruth and brought to market by Weeks Roses in 2018. It’s a favorite with gardeners and pollinators alike.

    This plant is the perfect wingman for anyone who wants to enjoy deep red roses.

    Nature Hills carries Top Gun™ in #3 containers.

    31. Queen Bee

    A rose fit for royalty, this Dr. Griffith Buck beauty has large double flowers with velvety, ruby-red petals cupping golden stamens.

    This is one of the more fragrant offerings, with heavenly pungent notes of old rose and fruity raspberry coming from flowers that appear in clusters from late spring until first frost.

    ‘Queen Bee’ grows to about three feet tall and is hardy in Zones 5b to 9b without protection. It also makes an excellent cut flower plant.

    32. Tess of the D’Urbervilles

    If you’re looking for a classic climber, this David Austin repeat bloomer is one to look at.

    The crimson flowers are large and very full, appearing in clusters. It grows to about eight feet tall and, watch out, it has a ton of prickles. Not to worry, the dense growth covers them in medium green leaves.

    It was registered as ‘AUSmove’ in 2000 and grows in Zones 6b to 9b.

    33. Thomas a Becket

    This David Austin rose stands out from the other English types because it has a more natural, shrubby growth habit, topping out at about four feet tall.

    The blossoms are full, cupped, and form in small rosettes throughout the growing season from early summer until the first frost.

    A close up horizontal image of 'Thomas a Becket' flowers and buds growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of 'Thomas a Becket' flowers and buds growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

    The medium-sized nodding flowers have a lemony fragrance that is simply heavenly in the summer sun in Zones 5 to 9.

    It’s the perfect option if you’d like a more natural-looking shrub that has all the benefits of a modern, disease-resistant plant.

    My Love is Like a Red, Red Rose

    There’s a reason red roses appear in both classic and modern art, bouquets, and gardens. They’re ravishing! Once you plant yours, you’ll be able to enjoy the splendor up close and personal.

    A close up horizontal image of deep red roses growing in the garden pictured on a dark soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of deep red roses growing in the garden pictured on a dark soft focus background.

    Now I need to hear from you. Is there a particular favorite of yours that I missed? Or do you have anything to add about one of the options I mentioned above? Let us know in the comments section below!

    You think you’re done now that you’ve found the perfect option for your garden? Heck no! There’s so much more to explore in the world of growing roses! Check out these guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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