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Many of the best restaurants to leave us in recent years lived in that grey area between fine-dining and neighborhood bistro. Places like Black Pig, Greenhouse Tavern and Flying Fig, for example, managed to combine compelling chef-driven food with an easy-going atmosphere that pulled diners in for regular visits.
That’s the sweet spot that partners Constantine Katsaros and Jack Messer are aiming for with Westsiders, which opens next week in Rocky River. The restaurant, set in the former home of Bomba Tacos on Detroit Road, will endeavor to bring the “downtown experience” to the near-west suburbs.
“Fun, upbeat and accessible,” is how Messer describes the vibe. “We’re not fine-dining, we’re modern-premium. We just want to be in this space that’s elevated but not pretentious.”
Katsaros and Messer opened Landmark Smokehouse on the Cleveland-Lakewood border in 2018. Since then, they’ve learned a lot about what it takes to succeed in an ever-shifting landscape. Not long after opening their barbecue eatery, they overhauled the service model by shifting from a fast-casual arrangement to one with table-service. They built a bar, added some stools, and stocked the shelves with bourbon. While the timing was unfortunate given what was around the corner in 2020, the move laid the groundwork for the next four years.
When Bomba closed in late 2023, the owners scrambled to secure the spot. They were confident that Rocky River was hungry for an independent restaurant with elevated food, a top-notch beverage program, and the type of energy that seems attainable only in or near the city center.
“Everybody is always heading to West 25th – even when they’re local to this area,” Katsaros explains. “What can we do here so you don’t have to go all the way downtown to get that vibe and have that experience.”
Commanding a prime “end cap” spot in a well-maintained shopping plaza, the spacious property has received a comprehensive makeover since last fall. Designer Lindsey Katsaros combined custom fixtures and furnishings with salvaged architectural features to create a polished, sophisticated but comfortable environment. A large wrap-around bar abuts a roomy lounge area with leather-wrapped banquettes, solid wood high-tops and cushy barstools. A dining room with booth, banquette and table seating is perfect for long, leisurely meals with wine. A front room offers a similar blend of casual but luxe seating appropriate for both small and larger groups. Salvaged Art Deco-era panels from Higbee Co. serve as ornamental but functional dividers throughout the dining room.
Chef Chris Suntala, who returned home to Cleveland after a decade working in top New York City kitchens, has crafted a menu of “New American” dishes with equal parts finesse and broad appeal. The roster will be concise but flexible, with both weekly specials and seasonal adjustments.
“I take a very Italian approach to my food; the fewer ingredients you have in it the better,” says the chef.
While in New York, Suntala worked for Hillary Sterling at Ci Siamo, a restaurant in Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group. Sterling is renowned for her matchless pasta dishes and Westsiders diners can look forward to similar regional Italian gems. The chef is eager to share dishes like ricotta cavatelli and tagliatelle Bolognese, made from scratch like his former boss.
There will be shareable starters, vegetarian-friendly dishes and hearty mains big enough to share. Black Pig fans might recognize a slow-braised pork collar entrée while vegans can enjoy grilled radicchio with beets, fennel and lentils. The chef says he’s relying on some back-of-the-house efficiencies to keep prices in check to foster regular visits.
“What we we’re shooting for is to have those options available for the people who live in the neighborhood who want to pop in for a quick salad, but we also want to be able to provide that nice, sit-down experience where you can eat, drink and have a really good time,” the chef says.
In addition to Landmark, Katsaros and Messer also run Twist Social Club since taking the bar over from Katsaros’ uncle John, who passed away in 2014. The team hopes to import some of the nightclub vibe that attracts service industry pros and keeps the joint jumping long into the night, they say.
“We want to have that energy and feel like you can be here late night and not just in a restaurant,” notes Messer.
In addition to a late-night bar menu and flexible lounge seating, Westsiders will feature a beverage program built on creativity, efficiency and affordability. GM Jacob Bender describes a shift taking place in the spirits world that swaps slow, serious and pricy bespoke cocktails for drink menus that are fun, freewheeling and fairly priced.
“I think people have gotten away with over-charging for drinks,” he says. “There’s been a price-prohibitive element associated with going out and having a good time, which has led people to seek out alternatives.”
Like his counterpart behind the swinging door, Bender says that tricks of the trade behind the stick will lead to savings – and, ideally, more rounds – on this side of the bar.
“We live in a time – at least in bigger primary markets – when expedience and service belie technique and labor on the back end,” he explains.
To drink, there will be local beers, creative cocktails, wines by the glass and bottle, and many NA options.
In addition to lunch and dinner service, Westsiders will roll out a festive weekend brunch, another tactic designed to keep locals from decamping to other parts of town.
“Part of why our name is Westsiders is because we want to be proud of showcasing this type of restaurant on the west side,” adds Katsaros. “We feel like this is what we have to be proud of on this side of town.”
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Douglas Trattner
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