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Tag: Rock climbing

  • Pacifica rock climber charged with multiple counts of sexual assault

    Pacifica rock climber charged with multiple counts of sexual assault

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    PACIFICA — A Pacifica man faces multiple counts of sexual assault involving at least three women he met through a rock climbing business, according to the San Mateo County District Attorney’s Office.

    Jason Crist, 38, was arrested last Wednesday on a $500,000 warrant, the Pacifica Police Department said in a news release. Authorities say the alleged assaults took place in San Mateo County and various U.S. National Parks around the state.

    “All met him through the rock climbing business,” San Mateo County District Attorney Stephen Wagstaffe said.

    Crist was charged with nine counts of sexual assault for each of the three victims and has since posted bail, but has not yet appeared in court.

    The investigation was launched in 2022 by Pacifica Police detectives, in collaboration with the San Mateo County District Attorney’s Office and the U.S. National Parks Police Service.

    The Pacifica Police Department encourages anyone with additional information to contact its tip line at (650) 359-4444.

     

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    Ryan Macasero

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  • For Paraclimber Raveena Alli, Growth Sometimes Looks Like Falling – POPSUGAR Australia

    For Paraclimber Raveena Alli, Growth Sometimes Looks Like Falling – POPSUGAR Australia

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    Before getting on the wall in the final round of a paraclimbing competition, 17-year-old Raveena Alli, a climber who’s blind, usually has six minutes to preview the top rope route with her caller, Fernando Vásquez. He tells her how it’ll feel – easy, pumpy, familiar, unfamiliar – and how it’ll flow. He talks her through the resting spots and the cruxes – the hardest moves. When Alli starts climbing, Vásquez gives her the direction, distance, and shape of the next hold through Bluetooth headsets, referencing a clock face and everyday objects: “12 o’clock, close, muffin.”

    Vásquez never rushes his calls, matching his tone to Alli’s intentional movement. As she climbs, she engages her biceps to find control, adjusts her feet to find balance, and pushes off from her legs to find power. She loves it when these moves feel natural, but she also likes it when they don’t. In training, Alli will fall on a tricky move a few times before Vásquez gives her more direction. “He’s big into – which I like – having me attempt it, having me fall, because that’s when you really learn most about how your body will respond to your movements,” Alli says. “I would’ve quit a long time ago if I had just always gone to the top, because that’s kind of boring.”

    As a member of the Atlanta, Georgia chapter of Team Catalyst, Alli has competed in adaptive climbing both nationally and internationally, moving to the adult field in 2022. She placed third in her international debut at the 2022 Paraclimbing World Cup in Salt Lake City. But when Alli took first at the US Paraclimbing Nationals in 2022 and 2023, there were no other competitors there to claim silver or bronze in the events’ B1 – total blindness – category.

    Alli was born with a condition called congenital bilateral anophthalmia, which kept her eyeballs from developing. She’s been totally blind all her life and wears prosthetic eyes, which puts her in B1. It’s hard to find B1 climbers at the highest levels of competition. This dearth of blind peers comes in part from low public awareness of the sport, Alli says. But soon, there will be a global spotlight on paraclimbing: in June 2024, the International Paralympic Committee voted to add the sport to the 2028 Los Angeles Paralympic Games. “It fills me with optimism,” Alli tells PS. “It’s a powerful step in the right direction. My greatest hope is that other blind people and other people with unique abilities will say, ‘Oh, look, they can do it, why shouldn’t I be able to?’”

    “I would’ve quit a long time ago if I had just always gone to the top, because that’s kind of boring.”

    Alli started climbing when she was around 6 years old. Her mother, Hayley, encouraged her to take lessons after she tried the sport during a birthday party at a gym in her hometown of Atlanta. When Alli was 8, she joined Team Pinnacle, which caters to kids of all abilities and is based at Stone Summit Climbing & Fitness Center. Two years later, she joined her current team at the same gym: Team Catalyst, where she met Vásquez, her coach and caller for more than a decade. When they first paired up, Alli was full of energy getting on the wall, Vásquez remembers. “Her whole attitude was like, she wanted to go at it,” he says. “She wanted to go.”

    Since then, Vásquez has watched Alli’s climbing mature, as she’s built up her stamina, patience, ability to multitask, and proprioception – a sense of your body in space. Alli worked on these skills over time, but she’s always easily interpreted Vásquez’s calls, he says: “Throughout the years, it’s gotten to the point where I can just give her a string of information and she will nail it.”

    For Alli, climbing is about growth, and growth comes from falling. “Growth looks like those moments where I don’t quite make it,” she says. “Even when I do, it’s really about: What did I learn about my body on this climb? Or how did my coach and I learn to collaborate better as a team? It’s really just being able to take every climb and think, ‘What did I learn from this?’”

    Alli doesn’t consider herself the fiercest competitor. At most events, she’s just happy to have an outlet for focusing on her own growth as a climber and to meet other differently abled athletes. But since she’s begun competing nationally, Alli has found she’s not only the rare B1 climber, but also the rare teenager among older athletes.

    She and her mother point to climbing’s costs and hesitation toward a lesser-known sport as barriers to entry for youth. Competitive climbers and their families pay for specialized gear, gym memberships, and national or international travel. And because blind and low vision climbing isn’t well known, parents may not have a clear concept of the sport’s relatively safe practice of top roping on routes set for static movement.

    That’s where the Paralympics come in. Exposure by way of the biggest stage in sports could drive up participation and usher in resources, says John Muse, vice president of sport at USA Climbing. “When sport climbing became part of the Olympics, it shifted things in the US,” Muse says. “There was a lot of excitement around it and increased interest in competition rock climbing. Paraclimbing is going to see the same influx.”

    When Alli competed at the 2023 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships in Bern, Switzerland, she had a taste of the community that comes with taking part in international competitions. She was able to meet more B1 athletes and other climbers from around the world. Alli listened to their varying strategies for hard moves.

    In fact, one of her favorite moments was waiting in isolation with her competitors before climbing. “That’s when you can really feel the energy,” Alli says. “There is a genuinely encouraging energy of: we’re competing, but we’re all in this together.”

    Alli hopes for more of that connection throughout her competitive climbing career. She plans to compete for as long as she can, and one day, she’d like to mentor young adaptive climbers.

    After graduating from Atlanta Girls’ School in May, Alli now works for the Partnership for Southern Equity and is studying at Georgia Tech. She hopes to bring her experiences moving through the education system as student who’s blind to a career advancing social justice and equity. Alli wants to find ways to fill the system’s gaps in training and services for differently-abled students. She has similar hopes for her sport: “The goal now is just to spread the education, spread the knowledge, and hopefully get more uniquely abled people involved,” Alli says.


    Suzie Hodges is a freelance writer drawn to stories in science, environmental conservation, and outdoor sports. In addition to POPSUGAR, her work has appeared in Smithsonian magazine, Blue Ridge Outdoors, and The Daily Beast. Previously, she was a writer at an environmental conservation organization called Rare and at the College of Engineering at Virginia Tech.


    Related: These 3 Women Climbers Overcame Surgery, Grief, and Self-Doubt to Make Rock-Climbing History

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    Suzie hodges

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  • Key Tips On Bouldering And Marijuana

    Key Tips On Bouldering And Marijuana

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    Bouldering and rock climbing have exploded – can cannabis help with this hot activity?

    Even 5 years ago, rock climbing and bouldering were niche activities for those with a passion. But since it has become a fun, core strengthening, urban activity and is now a multi-billion dollar industry.  Cities, towns and cruise ships now have climbing gyms and the popularity as soared. North American climbing gyms alone almost reached $1 billion dollars last year, this doesn’t count outdoor, equipment and other markets. With its popularity, it blends in with other lifestyle options, so here are key tips on bouldering and marijuana.

    RELATED: Marijuana And Exercise, All Part Of The Healthy Cannabis Life

    France is was the birthplace of modern bouldering. Pierre Allain, a pioneering French climber in the mid-20th century, loved the Fontainebleau forest and was among the first to see bouldering as a unique discipline within climbing, not just a training tool. He developed climbing shoes with rubber soles, increasing climbers’ ability to grip the rock, a revolution which helped bouldering gain recognition as a legitimate sport. Around the same time in the US, a gymnast as well as a climber, John Gill approached bouldering with a focus on strength, balance, and dynamic movement. Regarded as the father of modern bouldering, he introduce the concept ‘clean climbing’ – leaving no trace on the rock – which has influenced generations of climbers to respect and protect the natural environment.

    A Climbing Magazine anonymous survey of professional climbers a couple years ago, in which most said they used it for recovery while others said they sometimes climbed while using cannabis. A deeply-researched review conducted by scientists, including members of the World Anti-Doping Agency and National Institute on Drug Abuse, found that “the use of cannabis as doping will not help to gain a competitive edge by any means.” But the review also highlighted how cannabis can help athletes deal with anxiety in high-pressure situations—climbing includes plenty of high-pressure situations—and “play a major role in the extinction of fear memories” from traumatic athletic events, such as suffering a tough whipper or something more serious.

    RELATED: Science: Cannabis Does Not Make You Lazy After All

    “Cannabis improves sleep and recovery after an event, reduces anxiety and fear and aids the forgetting of negative events such as bad falls and so forth,” researchers wrote. “Cannabis enhances sensory perception, decreases respiratory rate and increases heart rate; increased bronchodilation may improve oxygenation of the tissues.”

    Photo by Tom Wheatley via Unsplash

    Marijuana can also help you in the gym during training sessions. A University of Colorado study concluded using marijuana before exercise “increases motivation” as well as “enhances recovery from exercise.” Recovery is huge, particularly in sports brutal on the body like climbing. Professional athletes in football, basketball, hockey, fighting, and even golf have all come out in favor of using cannabis as a recovery tool, with some saying CBD is enough.

    RELATED: How To Use CBD For A Better Night’s Sleep

    More than those other sports, though, safety is of the utmost importance while climbing. Combining marijuana and climbing should be done with serious intention and without harming belay partners or fellow climbers. An online survey conducted by Training Beta, a website dedicated to rock climbing training, explored how readers felt about the relationship between climbing and cannabis. Among 1,462 respondents, 47% said they weren’t comfortable with high belayers and 46% responded that it depended on the setting and person belaying them.

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    Anthony Washington

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  • There Are Too Many Ways to Exercise

    There Are Too Many Ways to Exercise

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    This year, I’m going to get into shape. It does not matter that I’ve made this same resolution every year for more than a decade, or that I gave up after a month each time. In 2024, I mean it. Unlike years past, my motivation is not aesthetic but utilitarian: I want to get fit so I stop feeling like garbage. As I enter my late 30s, I’m struggling with the health issues that come with the terrain—high blood pressure, lower-back pain, and persistently achy joints. On top of those, I’m a new mom, chronically sleep-deprived and exhausted. My six-month-old son saps all my energy but also steels my resolve to protect it.

    With all my new motivation, I first had to find a workout regime. Scrolling through social media for inspiration, I saw athletes of every variety across my feed. There were people sweating it out at a Navy SEAL–style workout, a Muay Thai–inspired kickboxing class, and a workout designed and taught by former inmates. Yoga isn’t just yoga anymore; it can be hot, aerial, acrobatic, Drake, and even goat. Personal trainers shout commands through media including YouTube, VR headsets, and, uh, mirrors. You can work out alone or in a group (or alone in a group, if Peloton is your thing). For the graceful, there is barre; for the nerds, there is a Lord of the Rings–themed app that logs exercise as movement from the Shire to Mordor.

    We are living in a golden age of fitness: With workouts to accommodate every skill level, interest, time commitment, and social capacity, it should be easier than ever for novices to find one and get started. But it’s not. Instead of finding a workout that suited me, choice overload left me even more inert, and less motivated, than I was when I started my search. If you’re serious about committing to a fitness regime, choosing one isn’t just about moving your body. It could shape your future schedule, lifestyle, and even identity. To others, the way you exercise might say something about who you are, whether that’s a marathon maniac or a #PelotonMom. To the exercise newbie, this can make the stakes feel dauntingly high.

    The stakes are high. Exercise will lead to results only if you do it consistently, potentially spending hours on it each week. It’s essential to pick right. I was never fitter than when I played in a basketball league in my early 20s and was held accountable for going to games and practice. Since then, I’ve only dabbled in activities—like kickboxing, spinning, and something called Dance Church. None of them stuck. In the search for the ideal workout, baseline criteria include practical concerns such as location and affordability. No matter how exciting the class, a gym that’s out of the way or prohibitively expensive is not one you will attend regularly. Then there is what I call doability—as in, Can my body do that? Answering honestly can eliminate unlikely options, such as the grueling circuit that turned actors into Spartans for the movie 300. Being too pragmatic, however, can also stifle fitness aspirations. If your goal is an eight-pack, the “lazy-girl workout” probably isn’t going to cut it.

    Ruling out options based on practicality only whittles the list down so much. The next step is harder: figuring out what you actually want to do. For a goal as broad as “get in shape,” you can drive yourself crazy trying to find the answer. Picking a workout that ticks all the boxes is virtually impossible, because there will always be other options that seem better. At first, streaming Yoga With Adriene in my living room seemed like a cheap, enjoyable, and physically demanding option, but it lacked a social component to hold me accountable. Programs inspired by high-intensity interval training (HIIT), such as F45, promise to get people ripped—fast!—but exercising under a constant deadline is my idea of hell. I found flaws in workouts as varied as rock climbing, rugby, Orangetheory, Tabata, Aqua Tabata, and Tabata-style spinning.

    Adding to the gravity of the decision is what it signals about who you are. Personal fitness is rarely personal these days. Stereotypes inform the culture of certain workouts and how their adherents are seen: Indoor rock climbing is associated with tech bros, running with intensely driven morning people, weight lifting with gym rats. Many boutique workouts come with even more distinct personality types, perpetuated by the communities they spawn in real life and on social media. Perhaps the most recognizable is the CrossFit Bro, an aggressive, bandanna-wearing jock who can’t stop talking about CrossFit. Pure Barre and SoulCycle call to mind lithe, athleisure-clad smoothie drinkers; Peloton, the kind of person who can afford a Peloton.

    New identities can also form by virtue of the lifestyle shifts that these workouts can bring about. Friendships are nurtured by sweat spilled during class; exercise may even shift eating habits. For some, fitness programs become so embedded in daily life that they begin to resemble institutionalized religion. In an extreme case of life imitating exercise, a couple who met at CrossFit got married and served a paleo cake at their wedding, which was held during a CrossFit competition. Because exercise is so good at fostering community, the search for a workout is sometimes described as finding “your tribe.”

    These stereotypes are not always true, of course, and they can also be aspirational. Embarrassed as I am to admit it, I would love to be a smoothie girl. But the notion of joining a tribe makes pedaling on a stationary bike or joining a rock-climbing gym feel much more consequential than the activities themselves. I was getting nowhere in my own fitness search, so I turned to experts for a reality check. Selecting from a multitude of fitness options is “quite a dilemma,” Sarah Ullrich-French, a kinesiology professor at Washington State University, told me, but the way out is to focus on what feels good, physically and psychologically. Fitness identities, however palpable, only have to mean something if you want them to. If the stereotype of the intensely focused predawn runner inspires you to get up for a morning jog, lean into it. But if it seems like an annoying downside to running, it’s okay to treat it as such. Pay attention to workouts that bring up anxiety and dread; even if you aspire towards a certain identity, “negative associations and feelings will often win over our goals and what we think we should do,” Ullrich-French said.

    Part of my problem was having a goal that was too diffuse. Theoretically any workout could help me get fit, but if I refined my ambition to, say, “getting up the stairs to work without heaving,” doing so would narrow my options to exercises that optimize stamina and strength. Instead of immediately signing up for a weekly running club, start with small, attainable goals, such as taking the time to stretch each morning, Adam Makkawi, an assistant professor of medicine at Columbia University, told me.  Small goals are easier to achieve, and can help make more workout options a real possibility.

    My biggest mistake was to treat choosing a workout as an intellectual endeavor, sort of like shopping for a new vacuum by reading endless online reviews. Test several options, and when you’ve found one that you like, customize its intensity and frequency until it suits you, Catherine Sabiston, a professor of kinesiology and physical education at the University of Toronto, told me. The likelihood you’ll stick to it, she added, boils down to competency—how well you feel you can accomplish a task—and enjoyment, both of which can be known only through experience.

    Choice overload is real, but it can also be a powerful excuse to stay inert. Although a little self-reflection about fitness identities can be helpful, fixating on them can rule out perfectly viable options. In this spirit, I compiled a list of doable, challenging, and conceivably fun workouts to try—and even mustered up excitement for a fitness identity that brought me joy. This week, I begin my search in earnest, embarking on a virtual Lord of the Rings running journey across the rugged terrain of Middle Earth.

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    Yasmin Tayag

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  • Climbing Back: One Woman’s Triumph After Near-Fatal Injury

    Climbing Back: One Woman’s Triumph After Near-Fatal Injury

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    Jan. 26, 2023 — Melissa Strong was living her dream. 

    Home was Estes Park, CO,  gateway to the glorious Rocky Mountain National Park.

    Her passion was climbing, mostly bouldering, that purist sport of scaling big rocks without ropes, relying on just your fingertips, feet, and crash pads below.

    Her career was hospitality, managing a busy restaurant while fantasizing about owning her own place.

    Then it happened: the dream and a nightmare. 

    At 43, she bought an old restaurant and gutted it. On April 2, 2017, Melissa was in her driveway adding decorative touches to the wooden legs of the tables for her restaurant, scheduled to open in a few months. She was using a high-voltage woodworking technique called fractal burning to create beautiful, river-like “Lichtenberg patterns.” 

    It had gone well until she absent-mindedly grabbed the electrical leads of the wood burning tool when the 2,000-volt device was plugged in. The buzzing current pulsed through her. She couldn’t scream, couldn’t drop the electrodes, couldn’t move. Cut to black.

    She entered an in-between state: “Am I dead or alive?” A forest, a tunnel, a shaft of light, and the presence of a friend and her grandmother, both deceased. She sensed they didn’t want her to go in the tunnel.

    She decided she needed to get back to Adam, her husband. “It was like a reverse-tunnel effect, and my eyes opened, and I saw the gravel” of the driveway, she says.  “I could scream.”

    When Adam, who was inside the house, opened the door, she blurted, “Hospital, now!” and collapsed in his arms. He carried her to his pickup. Her hands “looked like melted wax.” No blood but a horrible smell. Her screams and the speeding truck prompted neighbors to report a possible abduction. The wood-burning machine remained in the driveway, its circuit-breaker tripped.

    The accident had sent a massive electrical current through her body, leaving her fingers a mangled, charred, acrid mess. “I have no hands!” she screamed as Adam sped her to the local hospital. 

    There Melissa was stabilized and airlifted to a hospital in Greeley. 

    “They told me I’d only have four fingers — pinkies and index,” and likely no thumbs, Melissa recalls. Doctors knew her best hope was at the Burn and Frostbite Center at the University of Colorado Anschutz Medical Campus in Aurora.

    As she was prepped for transfer, a nurse recognized her. She had climbed with Melissa once. “You were amazing,” she told Melissa. “So strong.” As Melissa blinked back tears, the nurse said the doctors in Aurora could work miracles.

    Trauma and Response 

    That nurse was right. Surgeons can work medical miracles, but a lot depends on the patient. How do they respond emotionally to devastating trauma? Are they engaged with their medical team?

    Will they try to resume their prior lifestyle? Will they keep moving — literally — or succumb to common reactions like fatigue, exhaustion, and emotional numbness? 

    Melissa always had goals: getting her restaurant up and running, solving the next climbing challenge. Anyone who saw her on the rock knew she was tenacious. Anyone who saw her work a restaurant shift knew she never stopped moving. But could she be the same without the thumbs and fingers she relied on, on the job and on a boulder?

    Her active lifestyle gave her a leg up, so to speak. We know physical activity is good medicine. 

    Studies show that exercise is nearly as effective in treating depression as medication. Moreover, researchers say it improves mental health, boosts immune function, promotes a sense of well-being and control. This in turn makes a patient more likely to take good care of herself and stick to a regimen that may lead to a better outcome.

    Melissa’s doctors, who would indeed perform some miraculous procedures, agree that her story is a testament to grit, determination, and optimism in the face of grievous injury — and to the importance of movement and mindset for physical healing and mental health.

    “Analyze, then overcome.” That was the climber’s approach that Melissa took in her recovery, says Ashley Ignatiuk, MD, her primary hand surgeon.

    But first: you scream. 

    Surgery and Prognosis 

    Ignatiuk was the hand surgeon on call when Melissa arrived. “Immediately I could tell she was a motivated patient,” he says. “But when I saw her hands, it was hard to tell what I could do because they were so fried. Literally charred.”

    Thumbs were the priority. All the tissue on the palm side was dead. “The only way to keep the thumbs would be to give new tissue, to resurface what was lost.”

    For all the suddenness of the accident, electrical burns are a slow-motion emergency. They don’t “declare themselves” entirely at first; the damage gets worse as days go by. Ignatiuk took a needle and poked the tips of her thumbs. 

    “When I saw some blood, that’s when I realized I could do something for her,” he says. 

    Sewing injured body parts to healthy tissue—at the groin or chest, usually—is the typical move to allow healing blood flow into the smaller vessels of the extremities. But when it’s both hands? 

    Ignatiuk says it was Melissa’s idea  — although she says it was his — to sew each thumb to the opposite forearm. He and the resident plastic surgeon, Seth TeBockhorst, MD, performed the procedure, partially amputating four of Melissa’s fingers while  salvaging as much flesh as possible.

    “We lifted flaps from both of her forearms, put her into an ‘I Dream of Jeannie’ pose, and then put the tissue from her forearms on her thumbs,” Ignatiuk says, “and left her like that for 3 weeks.”

    Seth TeBockhorst, MD, is a climber, and when he first saw Adam and Melissa, both lean and outdoorsy, “I knew them for climbers by sight.” (It was mutual, Melissa recalls: “He was wearing an Arc’teryx jacket.”)

    Before the big surgery  — dead tissue had already been removed — TeBockhorst asked if she had any questions. “And I said yeah,” Melissa recalls. “Will I ever be able to climb V10 again?”

    In bouldering, the difficulty of routes is graded from V1 (easy) to V16 (ridiculous). A V10 is professional level.

    The doctor looked at her. “You’ve climbed V10?” Adam chimed in: “She’s climbed harder than that.”

    “It was important to me that my surgeons knew that climbing was important to me, that I am an athlete,” Melissa says.

    TeBockhorst was careful to balance compassion and honesty. “I had very little expectation that she would ever climb at any real level again.”

    Pain and Uncertainty 

    Melissa awoke in excruciating pain. Her strong arms were now immobilized. Just moving was a study in pain.

    Medications made her nauseous. For 3 weeks, she felt helpless, unable to brush her teeth or hair, wipe her butt, or feed herself. Sleeping was scary — what if she tugged her arms apart? (She tried once; no damage.)

    Friends made her thankful. An outpouring of support from the climbing community fanned the embers of hope within. Adam and her family stood by to help the woman who had previously preferred to do everything for herself.

    Reactions to trauma vary widely. Ask any doctor, or consult a textbook titled Trauma-Informed Care in Behavioral Health Services. Initial reactions can include “exhaustion, confusion, sadness, anxiety, agitation, numbness, dissociation, confusion,” among others. It can include a “loss of hope,” the thought that normal life events won’t happen, and a heightened fear that life could suddenly end.

    Melissa knew about life ending suddenly — she’d seen the tunnel. Loss of hope? A little, maybe, but her gratefulness for simply being alive was dominant. Normal life events not happening? Sure, there was some of that.

    “I thought about rock climbing because it was a part of me,” she says. “It was a sad thought because I didn’t have a lot of optimism on that front. At that point you’re not too greedy. You’re happy someone is helping.”

    You’ve heard of the journey of a thousand miles. The first step, quite literally, is movement.

    From her hospital room, she could see the Rockies. Part tease, part inspiration. She needed to take some kind of first step now. She was told of an exercise bike in another room and went to find it. She rested her crossed arms on the handlebars and started pedaling. 

    “I wasn’t accomplishing much, but I was still moving my legs,” she says. “And I would stare at my thumb that was dying, clearly dying. It was turning black where it was sewed to me. And I was just trying to will blood flow to it.” Back in her room, she did sit-ups with her sewn arms across her chest.

    “Instead of shutting down, I was trying to stay present,” Melissa says. 

    For stress reduction, this focus on the here-and-now “is almost a form of meditation, and that can be very therapeutic,” says James Alan Blumenthal, PhD, professor of psychiatry and behavioral sciences at Duke University’s medical school and author of landmark research showing the effectiveness of exercise on depression.

    As a hand surgeon, Ignatiuk has shepherded countless patients through very visible injuries that are a blow to the psyche. 

    “People catastrophize over a tiny little fingertip amputation,” he says. When rehabilitating, some are afraid to use an injured finger, delaying recovery.

    Melissa, on the other hand, “started her road to recovery immediately,” says Ignatiuk. “If you get into a state where you’re in depression, you have a catabolic state, you’re not going to heal your wounds properly.”

    A paper by Stanford researchers that was coincidentally published within weeks of her accident concluded that mindset is crucial to healing, as are a doctor’s support and the patient’s expectations. Melissa was three-for-three.

    Exercise and Healing 

    Doctors know that exercise speeds healing; that’s been shown in repeated studies that were summarized in a 2021 review by Iranian researchers. Moderate exercise boosts immunity and the endocrine system, which is crucial to wound healing. And while healing requires inflammation, too much of it slows the process. People who exercise generally have lower levels of stress-related markers in the blood, a sign of inflammation. (Bonus: Less inflammation can mean less pain.) 

    Moderate aerobic exercise can act as an antioxidant, helping the body generate blood vessels to nourish new tissue. Low-intensity endurance exercise seems to raise levels of “endothelial progenitor cells” that help regenerate the lining of blood vessels. And exercise helps provide oxygen to wounded tissue, helping to synthesize connective tissue while also preventing infection. 

    But exercise can help mental health too, though there’s much less awareness around that – and less focus on mental health for recovering from physical injuries, even though research shows it can help. 

    At its simplest, movement is a form of distraction. “You don’t think about negative things,” Blumenthal says. “You focus on the present, not thinking about what happened or what could happen in the future.”

    In a deeper sense, exercise conveys to patients “a sense of mastery and control,” he says. “They feel, ‘I’m doing something to improve my health. I’m doing something for me that I have control over.” Psychiatrists call this “self-efficacy,” which can lead to greater confidence and a sense of well-being.

    The physiological explanation for exercise’s benefits isn’t entirely clear, he says, beyond the endorphin release by exercise, which improves brain chemistry and lifts mood. But anecdotal evidence abounds, Blumenthal says. “People who have had a significant injury or loss, whether it be physical or emotional, immensely benefit from physical activity.”

    Even Melissa’s easygoing cycling pace helped, he surmised: “The incremental benefit of physical activity really begins when a person just starts a program. Even a low level of physical activity is better than nothing,”

    TeBockhorst says the benefits of exercise are “innumerable and immeasurable” for both mind and body. After an injury and surgery, “those benefits are only amplified. It’s the single best thing patients can do for themselves.”

    Melissa seemed instinctively to know this. And yet, as she pedaled the bike, she couldn’t help but look at her left thumb turning black.

    After 3 weeks, the surgeons detached her thumbs from her arms, amputated that left thumb tip, used skin from elsewhere on her body to cover remaining nubs and her palms, and bandaged it all up again.

    Melissa kept up her exercise routine until it was time to take off the bandages.

    Tomorrow and the Next Day 

    “When they showed me my hands for the first time, I was like, ‘You’re kidding me. We’re done?’ But we weren’t done.”

    Surgeons saw healthy pink skin and quietly rejoiced. But Melissa saw “Frankenstein-stitched baseball mitts.” They encouraged her to use her rebuilt hands, so she asked for a pen and paper. 

    “Hello, my name is Melissa Strong!” she wrote. “These are my first words written with my new hands. One day I will climb again!!! And probably will cry a lot along the way which is OK!”

    She tears up when she tells that anecdote. As a child in Massachusetts, Melissa says, she cried all the time. And as tough an athlete as she is as an adult, she’s not Superwoman.

    The accident “was absolutely devastating for her. But I never saw her cry,” Ignatiuk says. “She just kept asking more and more questions. You could just tell: She wanted to figure it out.”

    Oh, she cried, Melissa says, just not around her doctors. “I’m good at compartmentalizing. I would take that thought of climbing that was making me sad, let it come out of the box. I would talk about it with my husband if I needed to, and that’s when I would cry.”

    A Vanderbilt University study of 100 years of research found that a positive attitude is crucial to handling stress and healing. Among the keys are knowledge (check), inner resources (check), and social support (check). Melissa’s friends were always there. When the climbing rangers she volunteered with at Rocky Mountain National Park called, she asked that they hold her spot. 

    Meanwhile, she was distracted with sourcing materials for the restaurant: lighting, paint colors, tiles, menus, everything. “I had to open this restaurant. I had a loan, I had employees,” she says. “That was my biggest focus, besides putting all my energy into being positive and hopeful for my best outcome.”

    There were eight surgeries in all, literally fleshing out her now-shortened left thumb, and later repairing weakened bones in it that broke, and dealing with an infection.

    “She’s my best patient ever, no question,” Ignatiuk says. “The attitude is the most important. If you have a defeatist attitude, you’re not going to persevere.”

    Whether a patient’s outlook — her mind, really — can somehow cause lower inflammation and raise antioxidant levels is the “million-dollar question,” says Lewina Lee, PhD, a professor of psychiatry at Boston University’s medical school who studies how optimism affects health. 

    It’s not just biology or behavior. “They’re probably all acting together,” says Lee.

    An optimistic person tends to exercise more, eat better, and stick to a recovery regimen, which is why they have better outcomes, Lee says. “In doing so, you may have kind of better bodily chemistry, your inflammation levels may be lower, and your body may react more favorably to your treatment because you have greater adherence.” 

    It’s a notable cycle: Biological and behavioral pathways are “all probably acting in concert, or that one is leading to another,” she says. Optimists tend to have lower levels of inflammation, better endothelial function, higher levels of good cholesterol and lower levels of triglycerides, she says. But it’s just an association: “You see the two things tracking side by side, but we can’t really say that that causes lower inflammation.”

    Moreover, when an optimist suffers trauma, she will “focus less on how dire the consequences are, or the pain, and orient herself to the bigger goals.” 

    “We know that optimistic people tend to be more persistent in reaching their goals,” Lee says, and they may view an injury “more as a challenge rather than a threat.”

    Back home, Adam bought Melissa a Peloton bike. As her hands healed, she shopped for new holds for their home climbing wall, ones that her now-smaller hands could grip. About 3 months after the accident, she was doing “pull-ins” on their home wall — extending her arms and pulling her body to the wall. 

    By 6 months, she was climbing easy routes. A year later, she handled a simple traverse on a favorite boulder in the national park. What was once a warm-up now wrung her out, physically and emotionally. But she was back.

    Patience and Acceptance 

    The night of the restaurant’s opening, Adam turned to his wife and said, “You must be happy. Your dreams are coming true.”

    “Yeah,” she replied, “but in my dreams I always have my hands.”

    Adam and Melissa used to travel the world to climb: South Africa, Switzerland, Italy. Winters were spent guiding tours at Hueco Tanks, a legendary bouldering site outside of El Paso, TX. 

    Nearly 6 years after the accident, with the pandemic fading and the restaurant (called Bird & Jim) thriving, Melissa is expanding her business with a new breakfast-and-lunch spot and event venue.

    The climbing rangers in the national park held her spot, and she has resumed volunteering with them. She skipped only one winter in Texas. She’s now climbing V7 routes and pushing V8. 

    “What this accident taught me is patience, acceptance,” she says. “It forced me to ask for help — first in personal care and then with the restaurant.”

    The Peloton is crucial, she says. 

    “Every part of me has to be 10 times stronger than what I was in the past to overcome the loss of fingers and thumbs. Your core, your legs, everything has to be super-strong because my grip isn’t as good. I fall off the boulder a lot because I don’t have the tops of my fingers to really get on those holds.”

    She had to rewire her brain, which would warn her, “Don’t grab that hold, you don’t have fingers!” But each year, she’s able to cling to progressively smaller holds.

    Ignatiuk says her always-strong attitude evolved “once we had the certainty of what the final result of her hands would be, once she came to that closure and she accepted it. And when she got back to climbing, that’s when she really accelerated.”

    Her athlete’s approach to improvement  — “I couldn’t do this yesterday, but I can today” — also set her up for success, Ignatiuk says. 

    “Now she’s kind of on a new course, and she has to see her improvements in a completely different way,” he says. 

    A climber is a special kind of person, he says. It’s mostly down to perseverance. 

    “The mindset. Focusing on the good, not perseverating on the bad. Her inquisitive nature, the problem-solving skills, overcoming adversity, and having a support group,” says Ignatiuk. “It was the perfect mix.”

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  • Iran’s Elnaz Rekabi, who competed without hijab, in Tehran

    Iran’s Elnaz Rekabi, who competed without hijab, in Tehran

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    DUBAI, United Arab Emirates — Iranian competitive climber Elnaz Rekabi received a hero’s welcome on her return to Tehran early Wednesday, after competing in South Korea without wearing a mandatory headscarf required of female athletes from the Islamic Republic.

    Rekabi’s decision not to wear the hijab while competing Sunday came as protests sparked by the Sept. 16 death in custody of a 22-year-old woman have entered a fifth week. Mahsa Amini was detained by the country’s morality police over her clothing — and her death has seen women removing their mandatory hijabs in public.

    The demonstrations, drawing school-age children, oil workers and others to the street in over 100 cities, represent the most-serious challenge to Iran’s theocracy since the mass protests surrounding its disputed 2009 presidential election.

    Supporters and Farsi-language media outside of Iran have worried about Rekabi’s safety after she choose to compete without the hijab.

    Rekabi on Wednesday repeated an explanation posted earlier to an Instagram account in her name that described her not wearing a hijab as “unintentional.” The Iranian government routinely pressures activists at home and abroad, often airing what rights group describe as coerced confessions on state television — the same cameras she addressed on her arrival back home.

    Video shared online showed large crowds gathered early Wednesday at Imam Khomeini International Airport outside of Tehran, the sanctioned nation’s main gateway out of the country. The videos, corresponding to known features of the airport, showed crowds chanting the 33-year-old Rekabi’s name and calling her a hero.

    She walked into one of the airport’s terminals, filmed by state media and wearing a black baseball cap and a black hoodie covering her hair. She received flowers from an onlooker, and then repeated what had been posted on Instagram that not wearing the hijab was “unintentional” and her travel had been as previously planned.

    Rekabi described being in a women’s only waiting area prior to her climb.

    “Because I was busy putting on my shoes and my gear, it caused me to forget to put on my hijab and then I went to compete,” she said.

    She added: “I came back to Iran with peace of mind although I had a lot of tension and stress. But so far, thank God, nothing has happened.”

    Outside, she apparently entered a van and slowly was driven through the gathered crowd, who cheered her. It wasn’t clear where she went after that.

    Rekabi left Seoul on a Tuesday morning flight. The BBC’s Persian service, which has extensive contacts within Iran despite being banned from operating there, quoted an unnamed “informed source” who described Iranian officials as seizing both Rekabi’s mobile phone and passport.

    BBC Persian also said she initially had been scheduled to return on Wednesday, but her flight apparently had been moved up unexpectedly.

    IranWire, another website focusing on the country founded by Iranian-Canadian journalist Maziar Bahari who once was detained by Iran, alleged that Rekabi would be immediately transferred to Tehran’s notorious Evin Prison after arriving in the country. Evin Prison was the site of a massive fire this past weekend that killed at least eight prisoners.

    In a tweet, the Iranian Embassy in Seoul denied “all the fake, false news and disinformation” regarding Rekabi’s departure. But instead of posting a photo of her from the Seoul competition, it posted an image of her wearing a headscarf at a previous competition in Moscow, where she took a bronze medal.

    Rekabi didn’t put on a hijab during Sunday’s final at the International Federation of Sport Climbing’s Asia Championship.

    Rekabi wore a hijab during her initial appearances at the one-week climbing event. She wore just a black headband when competing Sunday, her dark hair pulled back in a ponytail; she had a white jersey with Iran’s flag as a logo on it.

    Footage of the competition showed Rekabi relaxed as she approached the climbing and after she competed.

    Iranian women competing abroad under the Iranian flag always wear the hijab.

    “Our understanding is that she is returning to Iran, and we will continue to monitor the situation as it develops on her arrival,” the International Federation of Sport Climbing, which oversaw the event, said in a statement. “It is important to stress that athletes’ safety is paramount for us and we support any efforts to keep a valued member of our community safe in this situation.”

    The federation said it had been in touch with both Rekabi and Iranian officials, but declined to elaborate on the substance of those calls when reached by The Associated Press. The federation also declined to discuss the Instagram post attributed to Rekabi and the claims in it.

    South Korea’s Foreign Ministry acknowledged the departures of the Iranian athlete and her team from the country without elaborating. On Wednesday, a small group of protesters demonstrated in front of Iran’s Embassy in Seoul, with some women cutting off locks of their hair like others have in demonstrations worldwide since Amini’s death.

    So far, human rights groups estimate that over 200 people have been killed in the protests and the violent security force crackdown that followed. Iran has not offered a death toll in weeks. Demonstrations have been seen in over 100 cities, according to the group Human Rights Activists in Iran. Thousands are believed to have been arrested.

    Gathering information about the demonstrations remains difficult, however. Internet access has been disrupted for weeks by the Iranian government. Meanwhile, authorities have detained at least 40 journalists, according to the Committee to Protect Journalists.

    Iranian officials, including Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, have repeatedly alleged the country’s foreign enemies are behind the ongoing demonstrations, rather than Iranians angered by Amini’s death and the country’s other woes.

    Iranians have seen their life savings evaporate; the country’s currency, the rial, plummeted and Tehran’s nuclear deal with world powers has been reduced to tatters.

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    Associated Press writer Ahn Young-joon in Seoul, South Korea, contributed to this report.

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    Follow Jon Gambrell on Twitter at www.twitter.com/jongambrellAP.

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