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  • In Qatar’s Zekreet Desert, Sheikh Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani Welcomes All

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    Rahaal unfolded across three pavilions (an exhibition space, a salon and a library) in the historic nature reserve of Zekreet, Qatar, just miles from Richard Serra’s monumental East–West/West–East. Photo: Sebastian Boettcher

    Sometimes there are stories so extraordinary they feel more like a romance. The one we’re about to tell, in particular, closely mirrors what Paolo Coelho described in his memorable book The Alchemist, where the protagonist leaves the Western world to embark on an improbable journey into the desert in a process of unlearning and rediscovery. As in Coelho’s narrative, this journey is less about the destination than about attunement and finding meaning through movement, disorientation and pause.

    In Qatar, in a tent in the middle of the desert—yet not far from Richard Serra’s monolithic installation East–West/West–East (which became an Instagram must for Art Basel Qatar visitors) and only about an hour’s drive from Olafur Eliasson’s monument for cosmic connection—an unexpected exhibition invites visitors to rediscover a contemplative relationship with nature. It posits the universality of this need across cultures and latitudes through work by a diverse group of artists from different parts of the world. They speak very different visual languages, yet all draw inspiration from the earth.

    At the heart of the initiative is Sheikh Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani, one of the youngest member of the ruling Al-Thani family, who now resides in New York, where he founded the Institute of Arab and Islamic Art (IAIA). He, along with acclaimed designer William Cooper founder of William White, conceived Rahaal, a temporary nomadic museum unfolding across three pavilions erected in the historic nature reserve of Zekreet, Qatar, and mounted the show, which is on through February 21, 2026.

    “It was very important to be in a place that genuinely speaks to the idea of community-building around nature,” Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani told Observer when we met in the desert. Getting to Rahaal is no simple matter—our driver got lost a couple of times, despite having been there a few days earlier, as the desert itself is in continuous motion. When we finally arrived, more than an hour late, Rashid Al-Thani welcomed us casually, smiling, inviting us into the majjii pavilion to sit on colorful cushions covered in Moray textiles he had arranged to create a large, welcoming sofa. Almost immediately, his staff served coffee and tea with dates.

    Portrait of William Cooper and Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani standing inside the majlis pavilion at Rahaal.Portrait of William Cooper and Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani standing inside the majlis pavilion at Rahaal.
    William Cooper and Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani. Photo: Sebastian Boettcher

    The idea for Rahaal came to Rashid Al-Thani after seeing William Cooper’s New York studio—a room entirely wrapped in shirting fabric and cotton, creating an atmosphere both contemporary and deeply resonant. That use of fabric carried a powerful sense of familiarity for Rashid Al-Thani, evoking regional traditions in which textiles aren’t confined to interiors but extend outward, most visibly in tents covered in wool. The shared aesthetic inspired a playful imaginative exercise between them in which they envisioned a traveler from New York journeying to the small nation of Qatar. “Imagine they take this journey by water through Europe, via Istanbul, and onward toward the Gulf, culminating in a desert crossing,” Rashid Al-Thani illustrated. Passing through the Saudi border at Zekreet, the travelers pause to rest, asking if they can stop there. “Of course,” an Arab answers.

    “That’s what Arabs do; we build community around nature,” Rashid Al-Thani  explained. “That’s how the idea came together. As you drive here, you see encampments everywhere. It doesn’t matter who you are—every single person I know in this country understands that instinct.”

    He added that many families in Qatar still keep a tent in the desert, and people are accustomed to driving out to gather and meet there on weekends. “If you know that someone has a tent, you know you can go there—you can join anytime, without formal invitation.” While today permits are required to build one, the desert itself is still largely understood as a shared space. There is no absolute ownership. The project takes its name from the Rahaal (رحّال), which translates as traveler or nomad—someone who moves across land rather than settling in one place, a desert figure accustomed to crossing vast, open landscapes. “When they saw a tent, they saw a community. They saw a place to rest, a place of refuge. That is what we wanted for people coming to the country: to feel there is a temporary place of connection.”

    Qatar, now one of the world’s major global stopover hubs, still embodies this idea of continuous transit. What often gets lost, however, is the opportunity to connect with the place itself while passing through. “People arrive, visit the major museums and leave without sensing it,” Rashid Al-Thani reflected. “What we wanted was for visitors to experience what you’re experiencing now—the same feeling you would have in my parents’ home or any other tent or family home in the desert.”

    Traditionally, those tents were always open, welcoming people and expanding into temporary communities. “It creates a deep sense of connection. It can be formal or informal, private or public—it depends on the person and the occasion,” he said, noting how in the Western world, that dimension often doesn’t exist anymore, as hospitality has become something separate, often associated with spaces outside the home. This is particularly felt in big cities, particularly after the disappearance of “third spaces” that once facilitated fluid transitions between private and social life.

    Seating area inside Rahaal’s majlis pavilion, with low modular sofas upholstered in red, teal and purple fabrics.Seating area inside Rahaal’s majlis pavilion, with low modular sofas upholstered in red, teal and purple fabrics.
    Rahaal was conceived as a site where nature, culture and art converge. Photo: Sebastian Boettcher

    Drawing from the traditions of Qatar’s essentially nomadic culture and the heritage of the majlis, Rahaal was conceived first and foremost as a platform for human connection and multicultural encounter, both between people and with nature. It is a site where nature, culture and art converge as part of a single, transformative experience that reflects centuries of Arab rituals rooted in community-building, shaped around natural cycles and rhythms.

    That sense of openness—of arriving without announcement—is what Rashid Al-Thani and Cooper sought to capture with Rahaal. He recalls that just earlier, Perrotin had stopped by and asked whether he knew they were coming. The answer was no, but they were welcomed all the same. “What mattered was that people were received generously. That was the core idea,” he said, noting how different this is from the cultural paradigm in the U.S. In New York, hospitality exists, but Rashid Al-Thani misses the immediacy of hospitality in his culture, where it’s not a courteous performance but deeply embedded in ancient traditions.

    For this reason, he has tried to recreate it in his own home in the West Village. “I tell my friends, ‘Just call me. I’m there. My coffee is ready. My tea is ready. My dates are ready.’ And now they actually do it every weekend,” he shared. “They call and say, ‘We’re in the West Village—can we come by?’” For him, the answer is always yes. “I wake up, prepare the coffee and tea, set out six cups, and whoever comes has a home—a place of refuge, even if just for that moment. That’s what we hoped to translate here.”

    The central pavilion, Al Ma’rad, hosts the inaugural show, “Anywhere Is My Land,” curated by Rashid Al-Thani with work by contemporary artists from diverse geographies, all imagining landscape not as a depiction of place but as fragments of memory carried within the traveler—seen, altered and remembered in motion. The notion of constant movement informed the exhibition’s title, inspired by Antonio Díaz’s series Anywhere Is My Land, created while he was in exile in Italy. “The idea of land, and where you find it, becomes very powerful—especially here, where land is understood as a common space,” Rashid Al-Thani reflected.

    Interior view of Rahaal’s exhibition pavilion, with artworks hung salon-style on fabric-lined walls beneath a tented ceiling.Interior view of Rahaal’s exhibition pavilion, with artworks hung salon-style on fabric-lined walls beneath a tented ceiling.
    Al Ma’rad served as the central pavilion of Rahaal, hosting its inaugural exhibition “Anywhere is My Land.” Photo: Sebastian Boettcher

    Featuring both established and emerging artists, the exhibition leaves viewers with a sense of feeling at home—even in the desert—through the possibility of reconnecting with natural scenes that resonate differently with each person’s background and memories. Collectively, the works affirm the universality of humanity’s need for contemplation of nature as a way to reattune to the most primordial truths of our existence within a broader cosmic order. All hanging, Salon-style, in a vibrant constellation against the fabric-lined walls, the works on view range from the poetic, endless starry night of Vija Celmins and material collaborative connections with the prime elements of Arte Povera masters Giuseppe Penone and Pier Paolo Calzolari, to the lyrical, more abstract, synthetic visions of artists from the region such as Etel Adnan and Huguette Caland, and the archaic, archetypal reappearances of Simone Fattal, among other names.

    “Everything in life feels so linear. Even museums are linear: you move from one point to the next,” Rashid Al-Thani explained. “The desert interrupts that. It forces you to think differently. Sometimes it gives you a moment of reflection. Sometimes you find yourself only when you’re lost. I know it sounds very poetic, but every time I come here—except maybe once, when I went straight through—I feel like I lose my way, but I find something else.” It is from this specific relationship with the desert—one that requires humility and receptivity in the face of nature’s infinite and overwhelming force—that the development of astronomy in Islamic civilization emerged. It was born from the need to locate oneself and find direction, because Arabs were always on the move.

    In this sense, Rashid Al-Thani may have found an even more resonant interpretation of “Becoming,” deeply rooted in a place and its traditions, but openly encouraging all those in transit through Qatar to exit their Western culture-shaped comfort zone and “get off the road,” get to the desert and embrace the culture.

    The response, not only from people visiting Art Basel Qatar but also from locals, has been incredibly telling. “Someone messaged me and said, ‘I’ve been here for 15 years, and I’ve never experienced something like this.’ That kind of response is exactly what we were hoping for,” he said. “If anything is going to change how people perceive one another, it has to be through connection.” It was that search for connection that brought him to art in the first place, and it’s a deeply humanist approach that he has embraced.

    The majlis pavilion at Rahaal, featuring striped textile walls, display tables and objects arranged for gathering and conversation.The majlis pavilion at Rahaal, featuring striped textile walls, display tables and objects arranged for gathering and conversation.
    Despite the fast paced development of modern architectural hubs in the Arab world, ties to past traditions remain strong. Photo: Sebastian Boettcher

    Since its founding in 2017, his Institute of Arab and Islamic Art has been focused on changing the perception people have of Islamic and Arab culture by creating occasions for meaningful encounters through the showcasing of contemporary and historical art from the Arab and Islamic worlds. “I felt a growing exhaustion being boxed in as ‘the Arab.’ I wanted people not to be scared when they encountered someone like me,” Rashid Al-Thani  said, recalling how, when he moved in 2014, fear and misunderstanding toward Islamic culture were very present in the U.S., fueled by a political agenda.

    “It is about normalizing what it means to be Arab or Muslim by placing it within a broader contemporary practice, whether that’s design, art or architecture,” he said. “Without those moments of connection we shared, my perspective might never have reached a wider audience, and the same is true for his. But connection is absolutely central to both of us. It’s what we’re deeply invested in, and I believe it’s precisely what has made this project successful.”

    Over close to a decade in New York, the IAIA has helped facilitate broader international recognition of several key figures of Arab art, including Ibrahim El-Salahi, Behjat Sadr and the now-rising Huguette Caland, among others. The IAIA presents both exhibitions and site-specific interventions, each thoroughly researched and curated to open up complex narratives about art from the Arab and Islamic worlds. The institute highlights historically significant artists who have been underrepresented in global contemporary art discourse and aims to challenge stereotypes about Arab and Muslim cultural production.

    To encourage spontaneous encounters with Islamic culture, the IAIA launched its inaugural Public Art program last fall with Big Rumi, a sculpture by Ghada Amer, marking the artist’s first public art installation in the United States. On view through March at 421 6th Avenue in New York, its latticework is shaped in space by the repetition of the Arabic quote attributed to the 13th-century mystic poet Rumi, which, translated into English, reads: “You are what you seek” or “What you seek is seeking you.”

    As U.S. institutions increasingly turn their attention toward the Islamic segments of America’s multicultural population, works previously exhibited by the IAIA have entered the collections of major museums, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In a world—and a country—ever more divided, Arab culture, from the rise of the Gulf to the election of New York’s first Muslim mayor, is increasingly central to public discourse, the IAIA’s mission and Rashid Al-Thani’s welcoming approach to exhibiting art feel not only timely but deeply resonant.

    Snow-covered public sculpture installed on a New York City street, with pedestrians, cars and the Lower Manhattan skyline visible in the background.Snow-covered public sculpture installed on a New York City street, with pedestrians, cars and the Lower Manhattan skyline visible in the background.
    IAIA recently launched its inaugural Public Art program with a sculpture by Ghada Amer, Big Rumi, on view on 421 6th Avenue in New York through March 2026. Courtesy Institute of Arab and Islamic Art

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    In Qatar’s Zekreet Desert, Sheikh Mohammed Rashid Al-Thani Welcomes All

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    Elisa Carollo

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  • Could Almaty’s Contemporary Art Museum Mark a New Era for Kazakhstan?

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    The opening of the Almaty Museum of Arts signals a turning point for Kazakhstan’s cultural ambitions. Photo: Alexey Poptsov

    Like dervishes, dancers turned in circles in their white and rainbow kimonos in the hall of the Almaty Museum of Arts during a performance by Greek artist Nefeli Papadimouli. They were creating space amongst the crowd that receded more and more towards the walls of the building. Two British businesspeople behind me continued to network while the sleeves of the dervishes missed them by just a few centimeters. It was the night of the museum’s opening, and, as surreal as it was, these two people’s intense chatting about investments and deals, as if nothing was happening around them, is not surprising for Kazakhstan. We are in a country known for cars, natural resources and wealth generated through oil exports, and many people here—expats and locals alike—have habits that are hard to break.

    Asking someone to put aside industry to appreciate art is a tough sell, though that’s likely to change with the recent openings, just a few days apart, of the Almaty Museum and the Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture. Together they mark the beginning of a new phase for Kazakhstan, and its epicenter is the country’s historical cultural capital versus the more business-oriented Astana.

    A city of contradictions, Almaty is very green and has many parks but is also plagued by traffic, resulting in it being one of the 25 most polluted cities in the world. The city center has a number of Soviet buildings and decorations that speak to its past—especially to space exploration—but those have been carelessly swallowed by KFC, Starbucks and Burger King. Here, the communist past and consumerist present conflate, and these juxtapositions are reminders that the recent history of Kazakhstan is anything but easy. The large former USSR state was originally composed of nomadic populations coming from Central Asia, and today there is a Muslim-majority population that speaks both Russian and Kazakh, a language once seen as inferior by the Russians, who tried for years to suppress it.

    Many of its contemporary artists explore what it means to decolonize from Russia, rebelling against a form of orientalism that differs from that practiced by Western colonial powers. Among them is Almagul Menlibayeva, one of the most widely known contemporary Kazakh artists, whose work reconfigures nomadic narratives, remixing symbols and centering women. She was chosen as the subject of the first solo exhibition at the Almaty Museum of Arts—a comprehensive and stunning show curated by Gridthiya Gaweewong.

    An artwork by Almagul Menlibayeva shows two women in traditional dress standing in a rose garden in front of a large historic building with a turquoise dome.An artwork by Almagul Menlibayeva shows two women in traditional dress standing in a rose garden in front of a large historic building with a turquoise dome.
    Almagul Menlibayeva, Bodyguards of Yassawi II, 2010. Collection of Almaty Museum of Arts

    Women are at the center of the Kazakh art scene. “The presence of women artists is not by design; it is simply the reality of our scene,” Almaty Museum director Meruyert Kalieva told Observer. On the day of the opening, she was pregnant and radiant in a white dress, representing not only an authoritative voice for contemporary art in Kazakhstan, but also cutting a goddess-like figure. “Women are the leading voices in Kazakhstan, and it naturally reflects in the museum.”

    The evolving Central Asian art scene

    It has been a few years since Central Asia began quietly making a place for itself on the international art scene. A significant moment in recent years was the Central Asian focus at the Parisian art fair Asia Now, where a European public could encounter the presentations of Aspan Gallery, founded by Kalieva, and Pygmalion Gallery, founded by Danagul Tolepbay, who was behind the Kazakh Pavilion at the 2024 Venice Biennale. Central Asian and Caucasus contemporary art was highlighted last year at Abu Dhabi Art, in a special section curated by Elvira Eevr Djaltchinova-Malec, director and founder of the WIMCAA Foundation.

    A large black, white, and red mural by Fernand Léger depicts stylized human figures, birds, and foliage.A large black, white, and red mural by Fernand Léger depicts stylized human figures, birds, and foliage.
    Fernand Léger, Les Femmes au perroquet, 1954-1960. Collection of Almaty Museum of Arts

    Both from a market standpoint and a critical standpoint, there is a tendency to consider the region too broadly. Curator Sara Raza, director of the soon-to-open Centre for Contemporary Art in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, developed with her curatorial studio, Punk Orientalism, a number of shows focusing on the region, including projects in Doha. In this context, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan—the two most prominent “stans” in terms of emerging art scenes—have shown a degree of rivalry. Both have hosted major events in the past few weeks, but there has been little collaboration between them. While Kazakhstan received in Almaty many art professionals coming from the Bukhara Biennale and the Tashkent Art Centre preview, Uzbekistan did little to facilitate wider engagement, with only a few Uzbek representatives present at the Almaty Museum of Arts opening.

    The comparison between the two countries is inevitable, although not entirely fair: Uzbekistan’s government has heavily invested in cultural infrastructure in recent years, using art as part of a broader tourism and heritage strategy, while Kazakhstan continues to rely largely on private initiatives to grow its art scene.

    Kazakhstan’s rising art system

    In this nascent contemporary art ecosystem, it’s only natural for pivotal art figures like Kalieva to wear many different hats and contribute to the art scene in different ways. At the moment, there seem not to be enough curators in the country, though at the same time, Kazakhstan is less heavy-handed in sourcing art expertise from the West, compared to many other Middle Eastern or Asian countries.

    Consider the Almaty Museum’s inaugural curators: Latvian Inga Lace—C-MAP Central and Eastern Europe Fellow at MoMA in New York, curator at the Latvian Centre for Contemporary Art and an otherwise eminent figure in the Eastern European art scene—and Gridthiya Gaweewong, arguably a household name in Southeast Asian contemporary art, having directed the Jim Thompson Art Center in Bangkok and the Thailand Biennale 2023 in Chiang Rai.

    A contemporary installation by Yerbossyn Meldibekov features three horse legs mounted on a white plinth in a gallery setting with paintings on the walls.A contemporary installation by Yerbossyn Meldibekov features three horse legs mounted on a white plinth in a gallery setting with paintings on the walls.
    Yerbossyn Meldibekov, Monument to an Unknown Hero, 1998, Collection of Almaty Museum of Arts

    “When putting together the first presentation for the Almaty Museum of Arts, I trusted our specialists, like Gridthiya and Inga, in order to bring new visions and new feelings to contemporary art,” Kalieva said. “My role is to balance these different mentalities and find compromises, while giving artists complete freedom in temporary exhibitions.”

    Seventy percent of the works in the museum come from the personal collection of the Almaty Museum of Arts founder Nurlan Smagulov. For him, the museum is both a personal and a national endeavor. “During the Soviet Union, everything was prohibited,” he told Observer. “Going abroad was impossible. Nobody collected art, and artists could only work in socialist realism. Today we have freedom, and I still cannot get enough of it. Building this museum is my way of making sure this freedom translates into art.”

    Smagulov’s passion for art emerged long before the museum was conceived: “When I was 17, studying in Moscow, I used to go to the Pushkin Museum during lunch breaks. Seeing the Impressionists was like a bombshell to me,” he recalled. “At that time, I never thought I would leave the country, let alone collect art. Today I have some of these works in my collection, and it still feels unreal that I could bring them back to Kazakhstan.”

    The Almaty Museum’s building was designed to convey this idea of openness, with spacious and squared-off architecture featuring pale limestone and rust-colored window frames reminiscent of Richard Serra sculptures. The result is a warm, expansive, luminous and orderly space that feels open but also structured.

    An abstract painting by Almagul Menlibayeva depicts colorful human and animal-like forms in bold geometric shapes.An abstract painting by Almagul Menlibayeva depicts colorful human and animal-like forms in bold geometric shapes.
    Almagul Menlibayeva, Bodyguards of Yassawi II, 1997. Photo: Deonisy Mit

    It’s a shame that during the week of the opening, international audiences coming to Almaty didn’t have any points of comparison or historical progression, as the main public art museum in Almaty, Kasteyev State Museum of Arts, was closed for renovation. Taken pessimistically, this shows how little vested interest the government has in the organic development of its art scene. We are left to wonder just how much private taste shapes a country’s art history. “Choosing works is a lot of responsibility. We visited many museums, studied carefully, and selected works with a strong connection to our region,” Smagulov asserted. “This is not about ticking boxes with blue-chip names. Every work here is chosen for its relation to Kazakhstan.”

    Regional shifts in politics and culture

    The Almaty Museum of Arts opens at a very particular time for the region. With the war in Ukraine and the decline of the art scene in Russia, it’s worth considering whether Kazakhstan, and the other Central Asian “stans,” might become a new center for contemporary art from the entire region, something that is no longer possible in Moscow or Saint Petersburg.

    The permanent collection of the Almaty Museum doesn’t veer much towards Russia; it is, as Smagulov said, very much focused on Kazakh and Central Asian art. “Kazakhstan has always been more Eurasian than Russia. Around 30 percent of our territory is in Europe, and with our large Russian population, our country is often seen as more Westernized than Uzbekistan. But at the same time, our nomadic roots and openness set us apart. We don’t close ourselves behind fences; we live in the open steppe.” Smagulov emphasized that the museum sees itself as part of a decolonial process. “This is about a longer search for Kazakh identity apart from Soviet ideology. You can already see it in the art of the 1960s. Now it has become even more urgent.”

    He added that he conceived the museum as part of a larger ecosystem: “We hope the Almaty Museum will have a Bilbao effect for the city, attracting both international guests and visitors from across Kazakhstan. But more than that, we want to create ambitious projects and make sure Kazakh artists are represented abroad, so people know how rich our country is in poetry and art.”

    Could Almaty’s Contemporary Art Museum Mark a New Era for Kazakhstan?

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    Naima Morelli

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