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Tag: restaurant

  • Zeke’s Place’s closure leaves void in East Gloucester

    Zeke’s Place’s closure leaves void in East Gloucester

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    Zeke’s Place, a family-run breakfast and lunch nook on East Main Street known for its delicious food and generous portions has closed for good.

    The single-story restaurant at 66 E. Main St. in East Gloucester was missing its signs and flags this week. A sign on the door read simply: “Closed.”

    Its dishes included a corned beef scramble, a paleo power breakfast, fried chicken and waffles, an asparagus or portabella “Bennie.” Other dishes over the years included apple pie French toast, gummy bear French toast and fish cakes.

    “As many of you have noticed we have decided to close our doors quite suddenly,” read a post on Zeke’s Place’s Facebook page. “It wasn’t an easy decision as we will miss our customers and staff.”

    The family that ran the restaurant for the better part of a decade has been debating for some time if closing would be the best thing to do.

    The owners, chef Michael DeCoste and Danielle Hopkins, said Sunday this was the first time in 10 years the entire family was not working.

    “As far as why we closed it just wasn’t making sense anymore,” Hopkins said in a message to the Times this week. “Costs included rent and utilities have gone up but the landlord was willing to work with us. She had a mortgage to pay too.

    “For the amount of hours Mike, more than me, put in financially, we can do that without the stress and responsibility.”

    They were reluctant to raise prices knowing many of their favorite customers were on fixed incomes. Hopkins also noted they have missed a lot of family milestones over the years. She said DeCoste “had an opportunity to take a job and we jumped on it.”

    Other reasons for the restaurant’s closing were “the rising costs of everything and the slower than usual summer had us worried about the future when we were going to have to go way up on our prices to survive,” their Facebook post reads.

    “Thank you so much to our loyal customers over the years and the staff that has come and gone we will miss you but we are excited to move forward with the next chapter of our lives and hope to see everyone around town,” the post reads.

    “I feel really strongly about this place,” DeCoste told the Times in late summer of 2021 in a series about how local businesses were weathering the COVID-19 pandemic. At the time, the death of DeCoste’s landlord risked the diner’s closure.

    The building and its apartments were being sold and major work was needed to bring the building up to code. He was concerned about his rent going up to offset these costs.

    Ultimately, the three-story mixed use building with the low-slung restaurant out front was bought by a Gloucester couple for $650,000 in February 2022, according to city records.

    Zeke’s Place also faced a serious crisis in September 2018 when DeCoste was badly burned in a flash fire at the restaurant. He was taken first to Beverly Hospital then airlifted to Brigham & Women’s Hospital in Boston suffering burns to 27% of his body, according to a description on the GoFundMe crowdfunding site that raised nearly $17,500 from the community for medical expenses and travel to Boston.

    In the accident, a can of cooking fluid left on the corner of the stove had exploded after the restaurant had closed for the day, according to reports. DeCoste suffered third-degree burns over his arms, chest and legs, which put him out of work for a few months, according to stories in the Times.

    Community support in the form or fundraisers and donated supplies from The Building Center to repair and clean up the fire damage helped save the restaurant, which shut down for six days due to the fire.

    Hopkins, who generally worked at the front of the house, joined DeCoste’s sisters, Lindsey and Vanessa Gigliotti, in the kitchen.

    “It’s great to be back,” DeCoste told the Times in January 2019 after returning to work over the holiday season. He was able to return to work earlier than the eight-to-10 weeks he was initially told he would be in the hospital with more time at home after that to recuperate. He spent two weeks and three days in the hospital.

    Hopkins said the only other times Zeke’s closed were for their son’s high-school graduation and for their younger son who took part in a state wrestling tournament last year.

    Hopkins said she started working at Zeke’s pregnant with her oldest son who is turning 20 next month.

    “We had some of the best customers,” she said, “a lot have been like family.

    “I am thankful for my time there and the memories.

    “We always had great staff. Some have come and gone but remain like family to us. We are looking forward to being able to have our time off more closely match the rest of the world so we can spend time with those we care about.”

    Hopkins said no one forced them to close.

    “It was just time to start something new that allowed us to have a more regular schedule,” she said.

    The loss of Zeke’s Place leaves one less place to eat out in East Gloucester.

    “It’s very sad, they are certainly a local institution,” said Ward 1 Councilor Scott Memhard, noting that restaurants do come and go.

    He said he hoped another restaurant would fill the void left by the closure.

    Ethan Forman may be contacted at 978-675-2714, or at eforman@northofboston.com.

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    By Ethan Forman | Staff Writer

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  • What we know about the McDonald’s E. coli outbreak investigation

    What we know about the McDonald’s E. coli outbreak investigation

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    An E. coli outbreak linked to McDonald’s Quarter Pounders has led to at least 49 illnesses across 10 states, including one death.Here’s what we know.Quarter Pounders made people sickThe U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention issued a food safety alert on Tuesday warning that dozens of people reported eating the Quarter Pounder sandwich at McDonald’s before becoming sick.A specific ingredient has not yet been confirmed as the source of the outbreak, but the U.S. Food and Drug Administration says that the slivered onions or beef patties on Quarter Pounder sandwiches are the likely source of contamination.McDonald’s has stopped using the onions as well as quarter-pound beef patties in several states including Colorado, Kansas, Utah and Wyoming, as well as portions of Idaho, Iowa, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New Mexico and Oklahoma while the investigation continues, the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention said.According to the agency, the beef patties are used only for the Quarter Pounders, and the slivered onions are used primarily for the Quarter Pounder and not other items. Diced onions and other types of beef patties used at McDonald’s have not been implicated in this outbreak, the FDA said.E. coli infections can be seriousEscherichia coli, or E. coli, is a common bacteria, but certain types can make you sick. Infections can occur after swallowing the bacteria, often after eating contaminated food or water. It can also spread from person to person through poor bathroom hygiene.People with E. coli infections may have symptoms including severe stomach cramps, diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Symptoms of infection usually begin three or four days after swallowing the bacteria.Although most people who become ill recover without treatment within a week, others can develop serious kidney problems and require hospitalization. Seniors, children younger than 5 and people with weakened immune systems are most at risk of infection, according to the CDC.E. coli infections from the McDonald’s outbreak have led to at least 10 hospitalizations, including a child who had hemolytic uremic syndrome, a serious complication that can develop from an E. coli infection. One older person has died.Most of the illnesses related to the McDonald’s outbreak are in Colorado and Nebraska, according to the CDC, but the agency notes that the outbreak may go beyond those states. Illnesses have also been reported in Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Montana, Oregon, Utah, Wisconsin and Wyoming.The CDC recommends that people call their doctor if they have recently eaten a McDonald’s Quarter Pounder and are experiencing severe E. coli symptoms such as a fever higher than 102 and diarrhea, particularly bloody diarrhea or diarrhea that has not improved in three days, vomiting that limits liquid intake or signs of dehydration.A ‘fast-moving’ investigationIt can take weeks to determine if an illness is part of an outbreak, but the CDC said the investigation into the McDonald’s outbreak is “fast-moving.”The agency said the outbreak is expected grow, with new cases being reported “on a rolling basis” as scientists are able to make genetic linkages between the outbreak strain and the bacteria that are causing human infections.The onset of illnesses associated with the outbreak have been reported from Sept. 27 to Oct. 11, according to CDC data. But the start date of the outbreak is likely to shift too as past cases come to light, according to an official with knowledge of the investigation.Outbreaks like these can also wind down quickly after the tainted food or ingredient is removed from the market. That requires a thorough investigation to make sure all possible channels of distribution have been uncovered and stopped.Changes at McDonald’sThe president of McDonald’s USA said that it’s safe to eat at McDonald’s and that affected ingredients are probably out of the supply chain at restaurants.”We are very confident that you can go to McDonald’s and enjoy our classics” without getting sick, McDonald’s USA President Joe Erlinger said on NBC’s “Today Show” on Wednesday.Quarter Pounder sandwiches will temporarily be removed from the McDonald’s menu in some states while the company makes some supply changes, according to the CDC.Erlinger said he believes that “if there has been contaminated product within our supply chain, it’s very likely worked itself through that supply chain already,” but he acknowledged that the number of illnesses reported may rise as the CDC investigates and traces cases.”Serving customers safely in every single restaurant, each and every day, is our top priority,” McDonald’s said in a statement Tuesday.A fact sheet from the company highlights food safety protocols that it says are in place, including daily temperature checks and hourly handwashing for employees. It also notes that Quarter Pounders are cooked to order to temperatures that exceed the FDA’s code on best practices.Foodborne illness is on the riseCDC data released this summer shows that foodborne illness is on the rise in the U.S. A few illnesses, including E. coli infections, are well above federal targets for reducing foodborne illness.There were more than 5 E. coli illnesses for every 100,000 people in the U.S. in 2023 – a 25% increase from five years earlier and about 40% higher than target rates.The Campylobacter bacteria is the most common pathogen causing foodborne illness, with more than 19 illnesses for every 100,000 people – a rate that’s 22% higher than five years ago and twice as high as federal goals. Infections from this bacteria are most commonly caused by eating raw or undercooked poultry, according to the CDC, and it can make people ill with diarrhea.Salmonella infections haven’t increased in recent years, but the bacteria still caused about 14 illnesses for every 100,000 people in the U.S. in 2023.Listeria caused about 0.3 illnesses for every 100,000 people in the U.S. in 2023, according to data from the CDC, but has led to a few large, deadly outbreaks this year.Boar’s Head issued a recall in late July for more than 7.2 million pounds of its ready-to-eat liverwurst and some other deli meat products, leading to dozens of hospitalizations and at least nine deaths, and another recall of nearly 12 million pounds of ready-to-eat meat and poultry items made by BrucePac has affected schools, retailers and restaurants nationwide.CNN’s Nadia Kounang, Carma Hassan, Brenda Goodman and Meg Tirrell contributed to this report.

    An E. coli outbreak linked to McDonald’s Quarter Pounders has led to at least 49 illnesses across 10 states, including one death.

    Here’s what we know.

    Quarter Pounders made people sick

    The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention issued a food safety alert on Tuesday warning that dozens of people reported eating the Quarter Pounder sandwich at McDonald’s before becoming sick.

    A specific ingredient has not yet been confirmed as the source of the outbreak, but the U.S. Food and Drug Administration says that the slivered onions or beef patties on Quarter Pounder sandwiches are the likely source of contamination.

    McDonald’s has stopped using the onions as well as quarter-pound beef patties in several states including Colorado, Kansas, Utah and Wyoming, as well as portions of Idaho, Iowa, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New Mexico and Oklahoma while the investigation continues, the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention said.

    According to the agency, the beef patties are used only for the Quarter Pounders, and the slivered onions are used primarily for the Quarter Pounder and not other items. Diced onions and other types of beef patties used at McDonald’s have not been implicated in this outbreak, the FDA said.

    E. coli infections can be serious

    Escherichia coli, or E. coli, is a common bacteria, but certain types can make you sick. Infections can occur after swallowing the bacteria, often after eating contaminated food or water. It can also spread from person to person through poor bathroom hygiene.

    People with E. coli infections may have symptoms including severe stomach cramps, diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Symptoms of infection usually begin three or four days after swallowing the bacteria.

    Although most people who become ill recover without treatment within a week, others can develop serious kidney problems and require hospitalization. Seniors, children younger than 5 and people with weakened immune systems are most at risk of infection, according to the CDC.

    E. coli infections from the McDonald’s outbreak have led to at least 10 hospitalizations, including a child who had hemolytic uremic syndrome, a serious complication that can develop from an E. coli infection. One older person has died.

    Most of the illnesses related to the McDonald’s outbreak are in Colorado and Nebraska, according to the CDC, but the agency notes that the outbreak may go beyond those states. Illnesses have also been reported in Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Montana, Oregon, Utah, Wisconsin and Wyoming.

    The CDC recommends that people call their doctor if they have recently eaten a McDonald’s Quarter Pounder and are experiencing severe E. coli symptoms such as a fever higher than 102 and diarrhea, particularly bloody diarrhea or diarrhea that has not improved in three days, vomiting that limits liquid intake or signs of dehydration.

    A ‘fast-moving’ investigation

    It can take weeks to determine if an illness is part of an outbreak, but the CDC said the investigation into the McDonald’s outbreak is “fast-moving.”

    The agency said the outbreak is expected grow, with new cases being reported “on a rolling basis” as scientists are able to make genetic linkages between the outbreak strain and the bacteria that are causing human infections.

    The onset of illnesses associated with the outbreak have been reported from Sept. 27 to Oct. 11, according to CDC data. But the start date of the outbreak is likely to shift too as past cases come to light, according to an official with knowledge of the investigation.

    Outbreaks like these can also wind down quickly after the tainted food or ingredient is removed from the market. That requires a thorough investigation to make sure all possible channels of distribution have been uncovered and stopped.

    Changes at McDonald’s

    The president of McDonald’s USA said that it’s safe to eat at McDonald’s and that affected ingredients are probably out of the supply chain at restaurants.

    “We are very confident that you can go to McDonald’s and enjoy our classics” without getting sick, McDonald’s USA President Joe Erlinger said on NBC’s “Today Show” on Wednesday.

    Quarter Pounder sandwiches will temporarily be removed from the McDonald’s menu in some states while the company makes some supply changes, according to the CDC.

    Erlinger said he believes that “if there has been contaminated product within our supply chain, it’s very likely worked itself through that supply chain already,” but he acknowledged that the number of illnesses reported may rise as the CDC investigates and traces cases.

    “Serving customers safely in every single restaurant, each and every day, is our top priority,” McDonald’s said in a statement Tuesday.

    A fact sheet from the company highlights food safety protocols that it says are in place, including daily temperature checks and hourly handwashing for employees. It also notes that Quarter Pounders are cooked to order to temperatures that exceed the FDA’s code on best practices.

    Foodborne illness is on the rise

    CDC data released this summer shows that foodborne illness is on the rise in the U.S. A few illnesses, including E. coli infections, are well above federal targets for reducing foodborne illness.

    There were more than 5 E. coli illnesses for every 100,000 people in the U.S. in 2023 – a 25% increase from five years earlier and about 40% higher than target rates.

    The Campylobacter bacteria is the most common pathogen causing foodborne illness, with more than 19 illnesses for every 100,000 people – a rate that’s 22% higher than five years ago and twice as high as federal goals. Infections from this bacteria are most commonly caused by eating raw or undercooked poultry, according to the CDC, and it can make people ill with diarrhea.

    Salmonella infections haven’t increased in recent years, but the bacteria still caused about 14 illnesses for every 100,000 people in the U.S. in 2023.

    Listeria caused about 0.3 illnesses for every 100,000 people in the U.S. in 2023, according to data from the CDC, but has led to a few large, deadly outbreaks this year.

    Boar’s Head issued a recall in late July for more than 7.2 million pounds of its ready-to-eat liverwurst and some other deli meat products, leading to dozens of hospitalizations and at least nine deaths, and another recall of nearly 12 million pounds of ready-to-eat meat and poultry items made by BrucePac has affected schools, retailers and restaurants nationwide.

    CNN’s Nadia Kounang, Carma Hassan, Brenda Goodman and Meg Tirrell contributed to this report.

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  • San Luis Obispo Shines as Top Christmas Destination With Rod & Hammer’s 3rd Annual Christmas at the Carissa

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    Press Release
    •

    Oct 23, 2024

    Immersive Holiday Bar & Restaurant Installation Opens on Nov. 8


    SAN LUIS OBISPO, Calif., October 23, 2024 (Newswire.com)
    –
    The community of San Luis Obispo has come to look forward to a new holiday tradition that attracts visitors from not just the Central Coast but around the country: Christmas at the Carissa. Now in its third year, this season’s transformation will step visitors directly into the scenes of their favorite holiday movie classics: Home Alone, Elf, The Grinch and The Polar Express. The historic downtown SLO Carissa Building will be reimagined into a Christmas wonderland that takes guests through a journey of the classics, with a Rod and Hammer’s beverage in hand. 

    Rod & Hammer has tapped the creative talents of local wedding and event planner Brooke Nicole Events to curate a nostalgic ride through four beloved holiday movie classics while new Executive Chef Jeremy Fike will prepare whiskey-centered libations such as the Gingerbread Martini, the Pomegranate Fizz and the Cindy Lu Who Punch, as well as scrumptious nibbles like Snow Crab Mac & Cheese and Reindeer Meatballs. Visitors from all over the country have come to look forward to this immersive transformation of one of downtown San Luis Obispo’s most iconic and historical buildings.

    “We’re a whiskey house that has now become the go-to Christmas destination for holiday magic,” says Rodney Cegelski, the “Rod” of Rod and Hammer’s California Whiskey. “Our goal every year is to bring something new and exciting to the experience, and who doesn’t love a good Christmas movie? Many people have cherished memories tied to Christmas classics. This theme creates a cozy environment where guests can relive those moments and share them with family and friends. With so many photo opportunities and immersive experiences, this season offers a captivating holiday experience like no other.”

    The extravagant installation includes five festive features:

    • Ticket to Ride The Polar Express — Grab a hot cocoa and jump on board.
    • Buddy’s Hall — Buddy and the Elves have created a special hall to welcome Santa and guests with Christmas cheer.
    • Whoville Christmas — Be a Who in Whoville and gather around the giant lit Christmas tree to help make the Grinch’s heart grow three sizes larger.
    • Visit Kevin at His Home — Kevin won’t be home alone when you visit and see all the crazy pranks he has in store.
    • Max’s Patio: Christmas for the Dogs — Furry friends are invited to join in the Christmas spirit on the heated creekside patio. 

    Installation is set to begin the first week of November and doors will open to the public Friday, Nov. 8, and due to its popularity, Christmas at the Carissa will extend through January 2025, creating more opportunities for post-holiday cheer with family and friends. For private parties of 12 or more, contact april@rodandhammer.com. Hours, reservations and more information is available at www.thecarrisa.com/xmas.

    Press Assets: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FWkBdCni1pEEgKP297eKlY-B1PHnAcCG

    Source: Rod & Hammer’s

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  • Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Italian

    Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Italian

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    Best Italian: Coltivare

    Houston seems to be having a renaissance when it comes to Italian restaurants; with a growing number of classic red sauce joints, fancy Italian steakhouses and friendly trattorias with scratchmade pastas and pies entering the dining scene over the last few years. With so many new faces in town, it sometimes feels right to revisit something tried and true; especially when that old favorite refreshes its menu to put out fresh-from-the-garden bangers year-round. Celebrating a decade earlier this year, Coltivare is a masterclass in seasonal dining (its name is Italian for “to farm,” “to cultivate,” or “to grow”), with a few menu staples —garlicky drunken mussels, spaghetti with black pepper and parmesan, wood-grilled chicken with pickled grapes — along with rotating specials from gnocchi with sunflower and mint to blistering pizzas topped with roasted duck, charred spring onion and fennel.

    3320 White Oak
    713-637-4095
    agricolehospitality.com/coltivare

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    Houston Press

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  • Black Diamond Hospitality Group Announces Rebranding of Plaka Souvlaki to TRÓS Greek Street Food

    Black Diamond Hospitality Group Announces Rebranding of Plaka Souvlaki to TRÓS Greek Street Food

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    JERSEY CITY, N.J., October 18, 2024 (Newswire.com)
    –
    Black Diamond Hospitality Group, with over 90 years of combined experience in the hospitality industry, is excited to announce the rebranding of its popular restaurant, Plaka Souvlaki, to TRÓS Greek Street Food. The new name, “TRÓS,” which means “to eat” in Greek, reflects the brand’s dedication to its Greek roots while making the restaurant more recognizable and accessible as it prepares for future expansion.

    The decision to rebrand stems from the desire to create a simpler, more memorable brand identity without compromising the quality that loyal customers have come to expect. “TRÓS: A fresh name with the same bold flavors” encapsulates the change, reassuring patrons that while the name is different, TRÓS continues to offer the same fresh, never frozen, high-quality ingredients that made Plaka Souvlaki a local favorite. Known for its elevated casual dining, TRÓS delivers fast-casual service with fine-dining quality, using premium ingredients like authentic Kalamata olive oil directly from Greece.

    TRÓS’s menu, curated by chefs from Greece, blends traditional Greek recipes with modern twists, offering a wide selection of healthy and flavorful dishes. This commitment to authenticity is reflected not only in the food but also in the restaurant’s atmosphere, which is designed to evoke a contemporary yet chic Greek dining experience. The current Plaka Souvlaki location at 62 Newark Street in Hoboken, NJ, is scheduled to undergo renovations to reflect the new TRÓS brand. Two additional locations are set to open soon: TRÓS Greek Street Food at 686 Bergen Avenue, Jersey City, NJ, and TRÓS Greek Street Food at 399 Somerset Street, Harrison, NJ, located at The Element Hotel. The Harrison location will feature a liquor license to enhance the dining experience. (Look for new locations to be opening towards the end of October.)

    In addition to its rebranding and expansion, TRÓS continues to offer private and corporate catering services for events in New Jersey and New York. Capable of serving groups of up to 300 people, the catering service provides customizable menus and a seamless experience, from delivery to setup. TRÓS prides itself on bringing the same high-quality, global flavors to its catering clients, such as TikTok and Goldman Sachs, as it does to its restaurant guests.

    Black Diamond Hospitality Group, the parent company of TRÓS, is dedicated to providing memorable dining experiences and staying connected with local communities. With exciting projects in the pipeline, such as Thira, a high-end Greek restaurant coming soon to the Canopy by Hilton Hotel in Jersey City, the group continues to expand its footprint in the hospitality industry. Future plans include new TRÓS locations in New York and Miami, further establishing Black Diamond’s vision for growth and innovation in the fast-casual dining space.

    Source: Black Diamond Hospitality Group

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  • Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Tex-Mex

    Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Tex-Mex

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    Best Tex-Mex: Candente

    Find yourself in Houston long enough and you’ll establish a favorite Tex-Mex spot, but if you’re willing to look beyond the endless chips and salsa, this Montrose standout is worth a visit. From the team behind the Pit Room, the BBQ-inspired haunt puts the “Tex” in Tex-Mex, with offerings like chopped brisket studded queso, smoked campechana swimming with mussels, shrimp and octopus, fully loaded fajita platters and smoky chicken verde enchiladas, and racks of Berkshire pork ribs slathered in chipotle bbq sauce and chile lime butter. Wash it all down with an excellent, salt-rimmed mezcal margarita. Rinse. Repeat.

    4306 Yoakum
    346-867-1156
    candentehtx.com

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    Houston Press

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  • Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Takeout Window

    Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Takeout Window

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    Best Takeout Window: Home Slice Pizza

    By way of Austin, this New York-style pizza joint is a much-welcomed addition to our dining scene; especially because it rocks an uncommon-in-Houston dining experience — a walkup takeout window. Hit it to grab a foldable slice dripping with sauce and hot cheese; order whole pies topped with things like fried eggplant, sausage, and roasted red peppers; or go for red sauce staples from calzones and garlic knots to chicken parm subs.

    3701 Travis
    832-810-7437
    homeslicepizza.com

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    Houston Press

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  • A Dominican Legend Known for Her Fried Chicken Rises Once More

    A Dominican Legend Known for Her Fried Chicken Rises Once More

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    At around noon on a Friday, chef and owner Miriam Montes de Oca hurried out of her restaurant, Morena’s Kitchen, and headed to Rush Medical Center. Her 26-year-old daughter, Tatiana, was giving birth to Montes de Oca’s second granddaughter, Hailey. “I ran to the hospital because Tatiana was supposed to have the baby quickly, but [Hailey] didn’t come until the next day at 8 o’clock in the morning,” she says.

    Hailey’s arrival coincided with the revival of Morena’s, as Montes de Oca had recently reopened the restaurant at a new location, 3758 W. North Avenue in Humboldt Park. She shut down the original restaurant — located about three miles west in Belmont Cragin at 5054 W. Armitage Avenue — three years ago.

    Welcoming a new granddaughter while restarting her business has been a whirlwind for Montes de Oca, but she’s enjoying the journey. Before the closure, for five years, Morena’s Kitchen served Dominican staples like sancocho, oxtail, and red snapper — and Montes de Oca’s famous Dominican fried chicken.

    Holding a piece of fried chicken.

    The chicken is legendary.

    The spice blend for that chicken hasn’t changed, and Montes de Oca guards the recipe with absolute secrecy. Diners can also taste that it’s been cleaned in the Caribbean way, with citrus or vinegar. Heated online debates over whether you should wash meat — the CDC says no, almost everyone with melanin says yes — fail to realize that most Caribbean, Asian, and African meat-washing techniques serve mainly as a brine to remove the gamy taste meat can often have, giving the dish a clarity of flavor, which Morena’s chicken — and their oxtail and lengua — have. “That fried chicken can’t go nowhere,” Montes de Oca laughs. “People love it the most.”

    Montes de Oca closed her restaurant in January 2021 during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. “It was a hard time. There was not enough money coming in, so I preferred to close down before it was too late for me,” she says.

    A woman warming tortillas on a black flattop.

    Miriam Montes de Oca cooking in her new kitchen.

    Miriam Montes de Oca smiles while cooking in a kitchen using a pan on a gas range.

    Miriam Montes de Oca puts a plate of food on a steel case.

    She took a job with United Airlines at O’Hare International Airport to pay bills. With the extra time not running a restaurant, she was able to help Tatiana with her 2-year-old daughter, Catalina. Free airplane tickets also allowed Montes de Oca to go back to the Dominican Republic three to four times a year after not having been home for nearly two decades. “I was without my country for 16 years,” she says. “And when I closed the restaurant, I went back and I fell in love with my country again.”

    Montes de Oca got the opportunity to reopen Morena’s when Vladimir Rodriguez, the owner of a Mexican bar and restaurant called La Leña, found he could no longer handle the expenses. He offered the restaurant space to Montes de Oca, and she didn’t hesitate. Rodriguez kept the bar half of the space, connected to Morena’s through a sliding door that’s usually open with customers easily moving through both businesses. The partnership has been good. “We work together,” Montes de Oca says. “The clients that drink over there, they ask for my food. And when people finish eating here, they say, ‘Oh you got a bar next door?’ and I tell them to go ahead and take a look.”

    Still, when customers search Morena’s by name online, the old location still pops up instead of the new North Avenue location and La Leña comes up when searching by address. “I need to change it,” Montes de Oca says. “Everybody is confused. They ask me, ‘Are you La Leña’s, are you Morena’s? Are you Mexican, are you Dominican?’”

    A shrimp cocktail, a bottle of red soda, rice, and more on square plates on a table.

    Seafood and other Dominican specialties are available.

    The best way to find the address, hours, and special announcements is through Facebook and Instagram — Morena’s regulars will find the menu unchanged, with a notable new section. Although firmly a Dominican restaurant, Montes de Oca retained some Mexican holdovers from La Leña’s menu like tortas, tacos, burritos, and chilaquiles. She notes that keeping the items helps La Leña’s old diners with the transition, but they also sell extremely well because she offers less commonly served meats like tripe and lengua.

    Business has been good overall, with some ebbs and flows, Montes de Oca says. “To be out of the business for almost three years? I can’t complain.”

    Many of Morena’s customers have transitioned to the new location seamlessly, either through word of mouth, Facebook posts, or walking by and doing a double take when they see the old sign. “Three days ago, one customer came and said ‘More, I thought somebody stole your name!’ I was like, ‘No, it’s me, I’m here. I’m back in business.’”

    On weekends, Montes de Oca serves Dominican dishes like chivo guisado and rabo guisado (Dominican-style braised goat and oxtail). It can be hard to source specifically Dominican ingredients — especially Dominican oregano, which has a stronger flavor — but Montes de Oca gets many ingredients from a Dominican Chicagoan who brings it back from trips to New York. The restaurant also stocks traditional Dominican sodas, like the brand Country Club, in addition to more familiar brands like Mexican Jarritos.

    Other options included mondongo, or tripe stew, and sancocho, a Latin American meat and vegetable stew widely thought to have roots in the Afro Latino community, whose ancestors were forcibly brought to the Caribbean, South and Central America by Spanish enslavers. Montes de Oca is Afro Latina, hence the name of the restaurant and Montes de Oca’s nickname, More. Morena means “dark-skinned” in Spanish, often referring to Latinas of African descent. As for the nickname, Montes de Oca says it’s a positive thing, although many people ask whether it bothers her. “I say no. It’s sweet, not the bad way. And it’s true. I am Morena, and it’s my nickname in the Dominican Republic, too.”

    Cooked shrimp stuffed in a veggie.

    One of the more distinctive Dominican staples available at the restaurant every day are los tres golpes, meaning “the three hits” in Dominican Spanish — fried Dominican salami, fried eggs, and some fried cheese. Montes de Oca eats it with mangú, a cousin of Puerto Rican mofongo made from boiled plantain that she squishes like mashed potatoes.

    Montes de Oca tops tres golpes with a savory onion gravy cooked in oil and vinegar. The rotisserie chicken — which fans of Peruvian pollo a la brasa will find familiar. Served with plain white rice, it’s her oldest granddaughter Catalina’s favorite meal.

    Morena’s presence on the Chicago food scene is a relief for Dominicans in the city and surrounding suburbs since there isn’t much Dominican — or Caribbean — food in Chicago. Puerto Rican restaurants abound due to the large community here, but if you’re of Virgin Islander and Trinidadian descent like me, Guyanese, Bahamian, Haitian, or Dominican, the options get fewer and fewer. The Caribbean still maintains a presence on the dining scene in Chicago; Cafe Trinidad, 14 Parish, and Garifuna Flava are all great places.

    Montes de Oca says one of her customers recently came in and excitedly told her about a Haitian restaurant near O’Hare, called Kizin Creole. “I told him, ‘For real, they got Haitian food?’ And I want to go try it because when I’m not here, I want to try something different. I like to go out with my kids and eat different foods and support other businesses because right now we need to help each other.”

    A seafood cocktail with shrimp and octopus tendrils.

    Chicago lacks the abundance of choice diners might find in cities like New York, Miami, or Toronto, where clusters of Caribbean restaurants are within walking distance of each other. Montes de Oca says she would love for the options to diversify for Caribbean diners in Chicago and fans of our food, and she sees herself as part of that push.

    Montes de Oca, who has lived in Chicago for 27 years, says she sees that changing in the coming years as New York, home to one of the country’s biggest Dominican communities, gets increasingly expensive. “Lots of Puerto Ricans and Dominicans are coming [to Chicago] from New York now. I have family in who are like ‘I can’t afford the city anymore, I’ve got to go.’”

    Even though the Dominican community here in Chicago is small, Montes de Oca says they find a home with many of the Puerto Ricans in the city, both being from Spanish-speaking Caribbean countries, with African, Indigenous, and European influences, as well as other bursts of migration from South and East Asia and the Middle East. “We’re brothers and sisters. We eat the same thing with different names,” Montes de Oca says. For example, she’s happy to make jibaritos — a sandwich of meat in between huge slices of smashed and fried plantains — for her Puerto Rican customers, who represent a large portion of her customer base. Jibaritos are one of those Chicago staples that have become famous because of the Puerto Rican community here. But, it’s also a Dominican food — Montes de Oca says they call it patacón.

    A fried fish on a plated with salad and fried plantains.

    Whole-fried fish.

    Roasted chicken topped with red onion and red peppers, with a mound of rice and salad.

    There’s more than fried chicken.

    In some ways, Montes de Oca feels her new location is a seamless transition. In other ways, she feels like she’s starting over from scratch. Food costs were a particular shock, and she’s learning how to deal with inflation.

    “When I went to the grocery store [three years ago], my plantain was like $35. Now it’s $47,” she says. “My oil was $19. Now it’s $30.”

    Morena’s stays open much longer — until midnight most days, and 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday — than most restaurants in the city. That’s despite restaurants rolling back hours during the pandemic due to labor and decreased business. At Morena’s, the longer hours are also an attempt to enliven the Caribbean dining scene here in Chicago.

    Chicago’s restrictions don’t support street or late-night food culture, between infrastructure that’s hostile to walkers and those who take public transit, cultural differences that encourage fast eating, and lowered profits coupled with rising food costs. But Montes de Oca is giving it a go.

    “I need to make this happen, and my people are happy with that because they say, after 7 o’clock, you don’t find any Caribbean food open,” she says. “You can’t find food from us.”

    Morena’s Kitchen, 3758 W. North Avenue

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    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad

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  • Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Restaurant in Memorial

    Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Restaurant in Memorial

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    Best Restaurant in Memorial: Bar Bludorn

    Just west of downtown, the old neighborhood of Memorial is rapidly gaining momentum as a dining destination. Case in point, Aaron Bludorn, one of Houston’s buzziest chefs and restaurateurs, made the super hood home to his latest concept, a sophisticated tavern with mod takes on American bistro food with a Third Coast touch. Along with delightful dishes like country ham beignets, cornmeal-crusted snapper with potlikker broth, and hanger steak frites au poivre comes Bludorn’s world-class service, with staff that warms and welcomes guests, a thoughtfully curated beverage menu, and flawless attention to detail.

    9061 Gaylord
    832-271-8264
    barbludorn.com

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    Houston Press

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  • Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Bakery

    Best Of Houston® 2024: Best Bakery

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    Best Bakery: Magnol French Baking

    Sharpening his pastry cutter at influential spots like Michelin-starred MIX in Las Vegas and “The Most Luxurious Hotel in the World,” Burj Al Arab in Dubai, San Salvador-born chef Otto Sanchez returned to his second home, Houston, opening this lauded Post Oak bakery (with a second location set to make its stamp in the Heights). The city is lucky to have him, and his selection of skillfully prepared organic breads and pastries, from gorgeously crusty boule and baguette to eclair, seasonal tarts, and perhaps the butteriest, most satifsfying croissants in town.

    1500 North Post Oak
    281-846-6661
    magnolfrenchbaking.com

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    Houston Press

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  • Austin’s Premier Cocktail Lounge Honored for Design Excellence

    Austin’s Premier Cocktail Lounge Honored for Design Excellence

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    AUSTIN, Texas, October 3, 2024 (Newswire.com)
    –
    Powder Room is nominated for the 2024 Restaurant & Bar Design Awards. Now in its 16th year, this prestigious global recognition honors the most influential and innovative designs in the food and beverage industry. Powder Room has secured its place on the shortlist by captivating guests with its soft, mysterious lighting and innovative design, seamlessly blending retro glamor with Austin’s modern creative edge.

    Powder Room, by Lobos Hospitality, offers guests a luxurious yet intimate ambiance, featuring vintage-inspired decor, atmospheric lighting, and opulent finishes. It’s a space designed to create a sensory journey where patrons feel transported to an era of timeless elegance. “We’re honored to be recognized by such an esteemed organization,” said Jason Ellefson, Co-founder of Lobos Hospitality. “Powder Room is a creative expression designed from a storyteller’s perspective, invoking vibes from the glamorous living spaces of the 1980s. It’s a place where people can come together in a warm, social setting for a vibrant cocktail experience.”

    The Restaurant & Bar Design Awards recognize the most visually compelling and forward-thinking hospitality spaces from around the world. This year’s ceremony will take place on October 31, 2024, at The Hoxton, Poblenou in Barcelona, Spain. Powder Room will be showcased alongside other international venues in a two-week Instagram event, putting the spotlight on Austin’s dynamic and evolving hospitality scene.

    Powder Room Details and Design

    Designed by acclaimed designer Peter Bowden of PETERMAX and brought to life by Rios Architecture, Powder Room’s ambiance is a masterclass in retro modern elegance. The space combines moody, atmospheric lighting with a design that draws inspiration from the vibrant energy of Austin itself. “Our vision was to craft an escape, an immersive experience where every visit feels like a new discovery,” said Bowden.

    For more information about Powder Room, visit https://www.loboshospitality.com/venues/powderroomatx or follow on social media @PowderRoomATX.

    About Lobos Hospitality

    Lobos Hospitality of Austin, TX is dedicated to blending quality service, chic design, and fresh cuisine to create memorable guest experiences. Whether eating a family breakfast at Toasty Badger, enjoying an artisanal sandwich at Manny’s, or sipping a craft cocktail at the Powder Room, each establishment offers that warm feeling of hospitality.

    Source: Lobos Hospitality

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  • Inside Old Town’s Demure, Yet Mindful Modern French Fortress

    Inside Old Town’s Demure, Yet Mindful Modern French Fortress

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    Gavroche, a modern French restaurant from Jason Chan — one of the city’s most beloved industry figures — debuts in Old Town. The narrow space has been transformed into a cozy, yet comfortable 32-seat restaurant with a chef’s counter. The counter won’t be activated immediately as Chan says he hopes to provide guests with an omakase-style option.

    The chef’s counter service could include a la carte choices like hamachi nicoise, duo of foie gras, and turbot au four beurre blanc. Chan, who opened restaurants like Juno, Kitana, and Butter, says he scanned every menu from every French restaurant in Chicago. For the most part, they were the same, filled with classic fare. While Garvroche will honor the classics, Chan says there’s a new for contemporary cuisine to mimic what’s going on in Paris this minute. He’s brought on Mitchell Acuña to executive his vision. The chef is an alum of Boka, North Pond, and Sixteen. Chan is eager to see Acuña take chances and to give diners something they don’t expect. Chan tells Eater that Gavroche will either fill a nostalgic niche for customers who miss French haunts like Bistrot Margot — the French restaurant that closed nine years ago a few blocks south on Wells Street — or they’ll break new ground and draw a crowd excited to for something new.

    Classic opera cake is among three desserts on the menu from star pastry chef Christine McCabe. Beyond working at Charlie Trotter’s, McCabe has started a few bakeries including the Glazed & Infused doughnut chain and Sugar Cube, a sweets stall collaboration with Chan out of Time Out Chicago Market food hall.

    Chan says he isn’t done and has some ideas — perhaps a speakeasy-style bar that goes beyond just a gimmick entrance. For now, tour his latest and check out the menu. Old Town once more has a French restaurant, as Gavroche is open.

    Gavroche, 1529 N. Wells Street, open 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily, except closed on Tuesday.

    The garage door remains for better weather.

    It’s an eclectic space.

    A back wall with wine and a chandelier.

    A framed oval picture and two empty candle holders

    A bankers light with a book underneath mounted on a brick wall painted white.

    The wall of a bathroom with framed photos.

    The wall of a bathroom with framed photos.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Unbelievable facts

    Unbelievable facts

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    There is a restaurant in Los Angeles called Lustig where you can eat for free if you’re taller than…

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  • Unbelievable facts

    Unbelievable facts

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    A Minnesota restaurant added the “Labor Inducer” burger to their menu after multiple…

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  • Peter Chang opens tapas-style restaurant in Herndon – WTOP News

    Peter Chang opens tapas-style restaurant in Herndon – WTOP News

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    Prolific local Chinese chef Peter Chang opens his 12th D.C.-area restaurant on Sept. 28 in Herndon, Virginia.

    Peter Chang is opening a new restaurant in Herndon, Virginia. (Courtesy Peter Chang)

    Prolific local Chinese chef Peter Chang opens his 12th D.C.-area restaurant on Sept. 28 in Herndon, Virginia.

    The Peter Chang Herndon is in the Arrowbrook Shopping Center at 2322 Silver Arrow Way.

    Like others recently opened in Gaithersburg, Maryland, and Crystal City, the Herndon location will feature a tapas-style menu, with smaller, shareable plates, which is a departure from the traditional banquet-style menus at Peter Chang’s other locations.

    The Peter Chang Gaithersburg location opened in April. Peter Chang’s NiHao, a more casual sit-in and takeout restaurant highlighting small plate versions of his Szechuan dishes, opened in May. It was a partnership between Chang, his daughter Lydia Change and D.C. restaurateur Erik Bruner-Yang, whose other spots include Maketto, and Brothers and Sisters.

    The new Herndon location will be open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. In addition to the Chinese tapas menu, it will include signature Peter Chang dishes like steamed BBQ pork bao, popcorn chicken broiled branzino, scallion pancakes and dan dan noodles.

    Here is the Herndon menu.

    Peter Chang came to the U.S. more than 30 years ago as head chef for the Chinese Embassy in D.C. The first Peter Chang restaurant opened in Charlottesville in 2011 Chang’s Dupont Circle location was added to the Michelin Guide last year, and he was a 2022 James Beard Award Finalist for Outstanding Chef.

    Get breaking news and daily headlines delivered to your email inbox by signing up here.

    © 2024 WTOP. All Rights Reserved. This website is not intended for users located within the European Economic Area.

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    Jeff Clabaugh

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  • Khmai Cambodian Will Reopen After Starbucks Construction Left The Restaurant Covered in Debris

    Khmai Cambodian Will Reopen After Starbucks Construction Left The Restaurant Covered in Debris

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    After being closed for over a month, Khmai Cambodian Fine Dining and its sibling restaurant Kaun Khmai will reopen on Wednesday, September 18 at its Rogers Park location near Loyola University’s campus. Reservations are available for opening day.

    One of Eater’s 15 Best New Restaurants in America in 2022, owner and chef Mona Sang closed the restaurant after construction dust at an upcoming Starbucks next door contaminated her restaurant. “Our dining room, our kitchen, and everything was covered in dust, top to bottom,” Sang says. Debris seeped into coolers and contaminated glassware. Sang says she feared that she might never reopen again, noting that a financial advisor estimated it could cost $400,000 to cover lost revenues and cleanup efforts at 6580 N. Sheridan Road.

    Sang says construction workers at the neighboring business initially “brushed me off,” and continued work despite the dirt and dust that forced her to throw away $10,000 of food. She says she’s not 100 percent sure how the dust made its way from Starbucks to the restaurant. It may have been the HVAC system or through two holes in a wall between Khmai and the coffee shop. Apparently, a demising wall, a type of structure used to partition sections of a building, was put up by the university and hid the holes from Starbucks’ general contractor. The holes weren’t patched when construction began on August 12. Sang says the contractor told her that their work would not affect her business. But on August 13, she arrived to chaos.

    “We couldn’t even breathe, so at that point, I told everyone just to finish up putting things away and put on a mask — I had to have my mom put on a mask, she was having a hard time breathing,” Sang says. “And then basically I was like, I cannot serve people. I cannot do this.”

    Sarom Sieng and daught Mona Sang at their original restaurant in Rogers Park.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    She announced the closure in an Instagram post on August 14 and then went into more detail with a video shared on August 23. Now that she’s announced a reopening date, Sang says she hopes Starbucks will halt construction, or at least be considerate, while her restaurant is open. Loud construction noises have a habit of ruining any ambiance in the dining room.

    No one has taken accountability for the mess with the unnamed general contractor, Starbucks, and Loyola blaming each other. Sang is caught in the middle after pursuing a fresh start with the university. The restaurateur left her original Rogers Park location near the Evanston border in late 2023 due to trouble with her landlord.

    Starbucks maintains that since Loyola is the landlord it’s their responsibility to deal with Sang’s concerns. Sang has written emails and spent countless hours trying to find answers.

    “Everybody is going to be pointing fingers,” Sang says. “At this point, I don’t care whose fault it is.”

    Sang, who got her start with Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, called the decision to close heartbreaking. The restaurants had only been open in the location since June, near the campus where Sang’s daughter attends college. Inside a bigger and more modern space, Sang unveiled two restaurants, a casual space similar to her original, called Khan Khmai. A second dining room housed a different menu, meant to showcase Cambodian cuisine in a more upscale manner. Just before the shutdown, the city had granted Khmai a liquor license and the restaurant had begun serving cocktails. Alcoholic drinks can be a huge revenue generator for restaurants that can help sustain them.

    “I put all my hard-earned money into it — all of our savings, creating everything — so that we have just to open up this place and for like, within like, you know, less than two months,” Sang says.

    Sang says Loyola was helpful during the closure, but only after she wrote a letter to Loyola CFO Wayne Magdziarz telling him that she needed assistance or her dream restaurant would permanently close. Sang says the school responded to her by offering a loan that could help her quickly reopen. The terms of the loan haven’t yet been finalized so Sang can’t say how much money she’ll borrow. She calls the money “the bare minimum” amount so she can once more serve customers. Sang will also have to dip into her personal savings to keep the restaurant afloat. Loyola did not respond to Eater’s request for comment.

    The Starbucks should open sometime this fall. Last week, a Starbucks rep provided a statement on the matter.

    “Starbucks is committed to being a good neighbor, and we strongly encourage all parties to find a resolution that works for everyone, so that our soon-to-be neighbor can reopen right away,” the emailed statement reads.

    The juxtaposition of a small family-owned restaurant being impacted by the actions of one of the world’s biggest companies isn’t lost upon Sang. She says there’s no way Starbucks would care about her business. Regardless of whose fault it was, Sang says she’s disappointed that no one from Starbucks made contact with her: “Just reaching out and asking if there’s anything we can help you with” would have been nice, Sang says, “Just to say ‘I’m sorry this happened.’”

    A round, black plate holds a small pile of fried egg rolls.

    Khmai’s famous egg rolls.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    Beyond lost revenue, Sang is concerned with broken trust. She feels guilty about canceling reservations — diners had booked tables to celebrate special occasions. Workers left the restaurant needing income while the restaurant remained closed. Some of her mother’s favorite employees won’t be returning, and that’s a difficult conversation Sang had to have. Before closing, Khmai employed about 40 people. Sang says Khmai is hiring for all positions if any service workers have an interest.

    On the bright side, opening day will take place on Sieng’s birthday. Though a lot of records and history were lost as they fled Pol Pot’s regime for America, Sang says she believes her mother will turn 82. Cooking Cambodian food proved therapeutic for Sieng and was one of the reasons that made Khmai special. It goes beyond the stellar egg rolls that Sang made for her church before opening her restaurant. Sang also trains workers on the history behind her dishes so they can share with diners.

    Sang says when Khmai opens they’ll launch happy hour specials from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. with the hope that will help them pay off the loan. Later this fall, Khmai will also launch weekend brunch.

    Starbucks’s general contractor and Sang’s restaurants shared the same insurance company. Upon learning that, Sang says she wasn’t surprised when the company denied her claim. Sang says friends have recommended attorneys, but right now she’s not pursuing a lawsuit.

    “It’s not about even the money,” she says. “The reason we opened up this place was because we wanted to educate Chicago about Cambodian food. We wanted to make sure that we had a place for our community.”

    Correction, Monday, September 16, 9:12 p.m.: A previous version of this story misstated that the opening day was Thursday when it is on Wednesday, September 18.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Does Chicago’s Only Lebanese Tasting Menu Restaurant Match Michelin’s Hype?

    Does Chicago’s Only Lebanese Tasting Menu Restaurant Match Michelin’s Hype?

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    Welcome to the Scene Report, a new column in which Eater Chicago captures the vibe of a notable Chicago restaurant at a specific moment in time.

    Checking out Beity, a Fulton Market restaurant from chef Ryan Fakih, was meant to be the highlight of my week, for good reason. The Michelin Guide recently recognized the Lebanese gastronomic experience, which opened in early August after two years of anticipation in a food scene with few Middle Eastern fine dining options. The 16-course tasting menu ($165 per person) is called “Teta’s Tasting” after Fakih’s grandmother, who sends him personalized cooking videos from her home in Lebanon. And Beity means “my home” in Arabic. That’s what Fakih is trying to evoke here, the feeling of being at a loved one’s home.

    The vibe: Aesthetically, Fakih’s goal of creating a homey space has been accomplished. The building used to house Michelin Bib Gourmand wine bar called Joe’s Imports. The chic 60-seat restaurant has stone walls, warm lighting supplied by brass fixtures, and archways reminiscent of classic Levantine architecture. Old classic Middle Eastern music like Palestinian Fairuz, Egyptian Amr Diab, and Western Saharan singer Mariem Hassan played in the background; it truly did feel intimate and exciting.

    My friend and I went to Beity the day after Labor Day as people tried to cling to the long weekend. The 15-seat bar was packed with groups of friends and a couple lone diners, all drinking and snacking. We were the only ones in the main dining room — there’s another in the basement that gives an even more cozy, grandma’s house vibe with a fireplace — but around 7:00 p.m., the other tasting menu diners started to trickle in until the main dining room had a decent but small crowd. Around 8:15 p.m., it started to slow down, with not many customers coming in (the last seating is at 9:30 p.m.) and the bar folks beginning to leave.

    The wait: Around 11:00 a.m. that same day, I tried to make a reservation and was dismayed to see Beity use Google’s reservation system — my arch-nemesis. Google told me they weren’t able to contact the restaurant to confirm my reservation and I called a couple times that afternoon with no answer.

    But we decided to risk it and just show up. Thankfully, they had space for us to try their tasting menu; the night was nowhere near booked. Fortunately, Beity also uses Tock.

    The drinks: I’m Muslim and don’t drink, so I asked about non-alcoholic cocktails and was disappointed that they only had two to choose from — the Jallab Spritz, with pomegranate molasses, pine nuts, soda water and rose water and the Apricot About It, with orange and rose blossom and apricot syrup, Seedlip 94 and egg white.

    It’s already difficult to find non-alcoholic options, and I had hoped a Middle Eastern restaurant might be a bit more accommodating to Muslim non-drinkers. I ordered the Apricot About It, which was floral and yummy, but not very exciting. In fairness, it’s hard for me to get excited about most non-alcoholic cocktails except for the ones at Esmé, which rarely let me down, particularly this coconut vanilla cream soda with white miso foam and an accompanying umami explosion, or FRE Sparkling Brut with the alcohol centrifuged out of it, and smoked black teas that curiously smell of bacon.

    The stone walls and warm lighting help the ambience.
    Beity/Nick Podraza

    People who drink alcohol would likely have a different experience than me. Everyone at the bar seemed to be enjoying themselves. It was clear the cocktail menu and wine list were a huge draw here. My friend ordered the Clothed and Unknown; she loved it. “It’s a typical mezcal sour with added spice from the Aleppo pepper, which you taste at the end,” she described it to me. “This is my ideal sour.” On Wednesday, September 11 Michelin added Beity to its guide and described the bar as “ever-busy” and offering “a casual experience with a limited selection of snacks and thoughtful cocktails made with the likes of arak, Aleppo, and tahini.”

    Most of the tasting menu diners also got a wine pairing, and they frequently told their servers how much they enjoyed the wine selection. Beity offers two wine pairings; the Beity pairing is $75 and highlights wines from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. Their Global pairing is $90 and highlights wine regions across the world, focusing on organic, biodynamic winemaking from female or family-owned winemakers.

    Mezze with sausage.

    The mezze is a star.
    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad/Eater Chicago

    The highlights: For the food, the mezze was absolutely the star of the night. The fresh baked pita was just a revelation, and I was in complete contentment swirling it in the parsley hummus with lamb and pine nuts, and slathering za’atar crusted labneh on the bread. I’m not alone in the assessment; Michelin concurs. “Drawing on his Lebanese heritage and on family recipes, [Fakih] makes a strong impression with a mezze of parsley hummus with lamb, falafel in yogurt sauce, and generously charred pita. Such a spread shows both heart and refinement.”

    Every dish was plated stunningly, and the service was impeccable. The staff gave detailed explanations of each dish and its meaning in Lebanese society and to Fakih and his family, infusing the meal with that cultural experience I had come here for. The sayadieh (a minimalist take on a fish rice dish traditionally cooked in a clay pot) was good. I liked the burst of acidity from the sumac crust on the branzino. Sayadieh is one of my favorite meals, so I was almost humming with excitement waiting for it and my main complaint was perhaps just wanting more. The koussa — stuffed squash with bulgur — was homey and delicious, with a lovely tomato broth and a delightful addition of crispy leeks on the top. And the shish barak (lamb and beef dumpling served with yogurt sauce) was dry again, with a yogurt sauce that was much too thick, but the flavors made up for it.

    There were brighter spots at dessert. I loved the lemon frozen yogurt with agrumato extra virgin olive oil. The day before, I had made a plum olive oil cake with olive oil from the family farm of Hisham Khalifeh, owner of Middle East Bakery in Andersonville, in ‘Arura, Palestine, so I was feeling obsessed with olive oil desserts. This one did not disappoint, and I could have taken home a carton of it. The frozen yogurt came with a Lebanese 7 spice (a Middle Eastern blend often called baharat, meaning “seven” in Arabic) digestive cookie with chocolate and caviar. It was nice to have another burst of salt from the caviar with the ice cream.

    A plate of hummus.

    Chicago doesn’t have many fine dining restaurants that serve Middle Eastern food.
    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad/Eater Chicago

    The lowlights: I wanted to love Beity’s food, I really did. Overall, though, it was much more underwhelming. than I’d anticipated.

    The a la carte menu (dishes ranging from $5 to $20) is really just six bar snacks and two desserts, a small offering compared to other places in the city and a deviation from the Beity’s description of it as “a more casual dining experience.” You would not be able to get a full meal from this menu without ordering at least three dishes per person, which would be fine if there were more options. We ordered makanek, a Lebanese beef and lamb sausage with pomegranate molasses. As a lifelong seafood fiend, I also wanted the samak bizri, fried sardines with finger limes and lemon tarator (a Lebanese tahini sauce) tartar, but they were out that night.

    The makanek was flavorful but much too dry. Without dipping each bite into pomegranate molasses, I couldn’t have enjoyed them very much, and I firmly believe that when a sausage requires a dipping sauce to taste good, then it’s not a good sausage.

    The moghrabieh, Fakih’s deconstructed take on a Lebanese stew of semolina dough pearls of the same name, chickpeas, onions, and chicken was also incredibly dry and my least favorite dish of the night. The chicken had every bit of juice that once existed cooked out of it, and was stuffed into a pastry that was visibly cracking from lack of moisture and fat. The best part of that course was the charred onion and the cinnamon jus, but I only ate a couple bites of the chicken-filled pastry.

    Even on after Labor Day weekend, Beity had diners.
    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad/Eater Chicago

    The verdict: Beity’s presence on the Chicago food scene is culturally necessary; we need more fine dining options from Middle Eastern countries — honestly, almost every place that’s not Western European is grossly underrepresented in the fine dining scene. Maman Zari in Albany Park, which serves a Persian tasting menu, opened in 2023. It felt incredible to eat the Levantine dishes I love surrounded by vibrant music in a beautiful space with a calm vibe.The bar vibes are so immaculate, I would go back in a heartbeat to have a non-alcoholic cocktail, that heavenly fresh pita and labneh, and to try the samak bizri. I’ve got a feeling I would have gobbled those sardines down at a frightening speed.

    However, I wouldn’t do the tasting menu again. At $165 per person (not including the automatically added 20 percent gratuity and 3 percent service charge), it was simply too expensive for the quality of food we received. The elements of a stunning Lebanese tasting menu are all there, but the execution wasn’t what I was expecting.

    It doesn’t make me feel great that I didn’t fall head over heels with Beity’s tasting menu. I love Arab food, and it’s hard when people put their culture, their family, their soul into a curated experience menu and it doesn’t stun you. I wanted to be entranced by everything, but instead I found most of the dishes to be lackluster, especially for the price.

    Although I was let down by the tasting menu, I have grace and high hopes for the future of Beity. Its bar program seems incredible, and the mezze (especially the pita) is delicious. It only opened a mere month ago, so I’m hoping that with more time, the tasting menu will mature to tell the story it wants to tell. They already have a clarity of mission, values, and culture. The food just needs to catch up.

    Beity, 813 W. Fulton Street, open 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, reservations via Tock

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    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad

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  • Former owner of popular sandwich shop pleads guilty to tax fraud

    Former owner of popular sandwich shop pleads guilty to tax fraud

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    SALEM — The former owner of Red’s Sandwich Shop in Salem has pleaded guilty to tax fraud after failing to pay more than $1.5 million in state meals taxes and causing employment tax losses of more than $400,000, according to the U.S. Attorney’s Office.

    John Drivas, 66, who lives in Hampton, New Hampshire, pleaded guilty in federal court on Sept. 6 to five counts of failure to collect and pay employment taxes owed to the IRS and four counts of wire fraud for state meals taxes he collected from restaurant customers but failed to pay over to the Massachusetts Department of Revenue.

    The offenses took place over a six-year period between January 2016 and October 2022 at Red’s Sandwich Shop and two other restaurants owned and operated by Drivas — Red’s Kitchen and Tavern in Peabody and Red’s Seabrook in Seabrook, New Hampshire.

    Drivas was the sole shareholder of the Salem restaurant until he sold it to an employee in September 2022. He was the 100% owner of the Peabody restaurant with his wife, and the 52% owner of the Seabrook restaurant with his children.

    U.S. District Judge Julia Kobick scheduled sentencing for Dec. 5. The charge of failure to pay taxes carries a maximum potential sentence of five years in prison and a fine of $250,000 or twice the gross gain or loss and restitution. Each wire fraud charge is punishable by up to 20 years in prison.

    According to the U.S. Attorney’s Office, Drivas collected more than $1.5 million in state meals taxes paid by restaurant customers that he failed to pay over to the state as required by law. In Massachusetts, all owners and operators of restaurants and bars are required to collect 6.25% sales taxes on meals. Salem and Peabody also require restaurants and bar to collect an additional 0.75% local option meals excise tax.

    Although Drivas collected the taxes from customers, he intentionally withheld $1,596,775 of those taxes from monthly reports and payments owed to the state Department of Revenue.

    Drivas also paid wages to numerous employees of the restaurants partly by payroll checks and partly in cash. He did not report the cash wages to the IRS or pay employment taxes on them, causing employment tax losses of $439,341. Federal tax law requires employers to withhold from any employee wages an amount for income taxes and other amounts for Social Security and Medicare taxes.

    Drivas’ guilty plea was announced by the U.S. Attorney’s Office, Internal Revenue Service Criminal Investigation Boston Field Office, and the Insurance Fraud Bureau of Massachusetts.

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    By News Staff

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  • A beloved Whittier pizza joint burns down. The owner suspects arson

    A beloved Whittier pizza joint burns down. The owner suspects arson

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    Pizzamania, a beloved pizza restaurant and a staple in Whittier for more than 50 years, burned down Tuesday morning in a blaze that the owner believes might have been intentionally set.

    The pizza joint and four other businesses were damaged after a fire was reported at 2:25 a.m. in the one-story strip mall in the 13500 block of Telegraph Road, Los Angeles County fire officials said.

    Firefighters arrived to find the five businesses engulfed in flames. The blaze was extinguished by 3:04 a.m.

    Patrons and passersby posted images of the fire on social media, and expressed grief over the loss of the restaurant that has been a fixture in the community for decades.

    “NOOOOOOO!!!!” one person posted on Instagram, followed by a series of crying emojis.

    A spokesperson for the Los Angeles County Fire Department said the cause of the fire is being investigated by the Los Angeles County Sheriff’s Department.

    “Someone came by and torched it,” said Warren Haines, one of the co-owners of the restaurant.

    Video cameras from the restaurant were destroyed in the fire, but Haines said video from one of the neighboring businesses showed what looked like someone intentionally setting the fire.

    Haines, who started the restaurant in 1973 with his business partner, Jim Barrit, said the person appeared to have targeted Pizzamania.

    Investigators were searching the area for more surveillance images, he said.

    Officials with the Sheriff’s Department did not immediately respond to inquiries about the fire.

    The fire put about 50 employees at the restaurant out of work, he said.

    “I’m pissed off,” he said. “It takes the wind out of your sail.”

    Just hours after the fire, Haines said his son, who handles social media for the restaurant, had received more than 700 emails from patrons devastated about the news and wondering how they could help.

    He said he was moved by their outreach and understands that Pizzamania was an icon in the community for decades.

    “They call, and half of them are in tears,” he said. “It means everything to me.”

    Haines said he’s reeling over the fire but intends to keep Pizzamania alive.

    “We’re an institution,” he said. “I intend to rebuild.”

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    Salvador Hernandez

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  • We Asked: “How Do You Get to Your Restaurant Job?”

    We Asked: “How Do You Get to Your Restaurant Job?”

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    A version of this post originally appeared on September 9, 2024, in Eater and Punch’s newsletter Pre Shift, a biweekly newsletter for the industry pro that sources first-person accounts from the bar and restaurant world. Subscribe now for more stories like this.

    While Chicago’s public transit system isn’t as reliable as New York’s, it’s not as scarce as LA’s. Last year, the Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) provided 279 million rides, many of which were for hospitality staff, getting them to and from their place of employment. The Bear found a friend in the CTA, and for three seasons, the FX-produced TV show has relied on the city’s public transit system for plenty of footage, showing Chicago’s famous elevated train system, the El. Much of Season 3, Episode 6 is spent showing Tina Marrero (played by Liza Colón-Zayas) relying on trains and buses during her frantic job search.

    But the CTA has drawn much ire in recent years. Low-wage workers like Tina rely on the system, but the city’s network of buses and trains hasn’t proved worthy. That’s especially true on the South and West sides, areas where the network doesn’t fully extend. For example, restaurant owners in Hyde Park, a South Side neighborhood where the University of Chicago is located, have shared that it’s been challenging to lure experienced hospitality workers. They’d rather work on the North Side, where there are more restaurants and it’s easier to get home at night.

    While many restaurant workers also depend on their cars for their daily commute, despite Lake Michigan’s infamous spine-chilling winter winds, the city has its share of all-season cyclists, too. We connected with restaurant staff about their commute, talking about convenience, parking, and the power of bike lanes.

    Diana Dávila at Mi Tocaya Antojería.
    Nick Fochtman

    Name: Diana Dávila, chef and owner, Mi Tocaya Antojería
    Length of commute: Two miles
    Mode: Bike

    “I have been a biker for — it’s crazy — the past 20 years. The first place I started biking was [now-closed] Butter. When I moved to D.C., I biked to work… I remember the bike rides when there weren’t bike lanes and I would take different routes, and that was part of the fun, finding which ways to take.

    “It’s funny, I never nerded out about bikes. I would just go into the bike store and pick out which one looked nice. Shit, I’ve never been depressed, I’ve always been a super positive person, as a default. But once I didn’t feel like getting out of bed and I didn’t want to see anybody… Those 10-minute rides made such a big difference. It is a service to myself and is 100 percent a stress de-escalator at work for me — open air and sunlight or moonlight.

    “Most of our employees live super close, and not everyone has cars. Cars eat income, which is why so many of us cooks ride bikes! Cars are a big responsibility, with permits, parking, insurance, tickets. Bike riding, scooting, and carpooling are great solutions. Just like what we used to do in school.”

    Rishi Manoj Kumar from Mirra

    Rishi Manoj Kumar from Mirra.
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Name: Rishi Manoj Kumar, chef, Mirra
    Length of commute: Two blocks
    Mode: Walking

    “The market to find apartments right now is horrible. The Bucktown neighborhood was hard, but I just kept searching and searching, and then suddenly, one day, I found what I’m living in now. It’s a block behind Mirra. It was a duplex and a duplex at two grand. Shit, this is unheard of in Chicago. So even before looking at it, I knew the proximity, I knew what it would bring for my peace of mind, like avoiding the traffic and even being able to go in on my days off. I can just walk through the restaurant and just check on things while I’m walking my dog, you know. And that proximity gives you so much freedom mentally, too. So it’s pretty dope.

    “Avoiding a bad commute gives you a peace of mind coming to work. Otherwise you spend so much time getting ready, or getting stuck in traffic, like, ‘Oh shit, I’m stuck, I’m an hour late because of something like Lollapalooza going downtown.’ It takes forever to get downtown. For me, I worked eight years downtown, like, just getting to work meant preparing an extra 45 minutes just to make sure I’m turning up on time. That mental burden is gone once you can just, like, wake up, change, go to work in two minutes. It’s a whole different lifestyle.”

    Billy Zureikat at a pop-up at Pequod’s.
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Name: Billy Zureikat, pop-up chef, Tripping Billy
    Length of commute: Varies
    Mode: Car

    “I drive everywhere. I don’t take public transportation anymore because it’s just too hard to navigate crowds. I got invited to the Windy City Smokeout and I’m like, ‘I’m gonna pass on that.’ It’s just too hard navigating with a cane [having limb girdle muscular dystrophy]. In an electric car, if I take my foot off the gas, the car will come to a straight-up complete stop. It regenerates your brakes, saving and repowering the battery, and is wonderful for me because I don’t have to pick up my legs and move around as much… It’s so much more comfortable and I feel safer when I drive.

    “I have to allow myself more time. There’s a big lack of available parking, especially accessible parking. I’m not trying to walk three or four blocks to get to a pizzeria to do a pop-up. I’m going to circle that block for a while until I find a spot that’s fairly close, because many times I have to carry lots of equipment. And I can’t walk multiple blocks carrying a bunch of heavy things, so I have to allow myself time to get parking.

    “I work remotely, so I can do my day job from anywhere. And that allows me the freedom to do these collaborations and pop-ups where I can go in the mid-morning, middle of the day — when it’s maybe a little quieter, traffic-wise — to get something done, or I can do it later in the evening. I have flexibility, and because I have a disability, my body has kind of changed over the years.”

    exterior of Obélix

    The exterior of Obélix.
    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    Name: Gustavo Lopez, food runner, Obélix
    Length of commute: Five miles
    Mode: Bike

    “Recently, I got a Divvy [bikeshare] membership. I dragged my heels about it, but I thought, I’ll get it for the gimmick, because those e-bikes really interested me. I hopped on one, like, ‘Oh, wow. This is amazing.’ There’s so much power in those electric bikes. Since then, I’ve been on Divvy for about three years. The docking stations are sprawled all over the city, so it’s very convenient. I can get to my destination within minutes.

    “If you want to bike [to the restaurant], and you’re chronically late, it’s more of a time management issue. I’m giving you a little leeway, but if you’re not here at the set time you’re supposed to be, then it just ruins the flow with the rest of the team. It doesn’t matter what the position is: server, expediter, food runner… We just pick up plates and just clear the table. The servers have to pick up the slack. It does add up. If there’s an event with traffic, I’m usually pretty vigilant about checking the news on Facebook and Instagram. I’ll avoid the busy streets. But, you know, you always have residual traffic. Thank God for bike lanes.”

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    Ashok Selvam

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