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  • Chicago’s Most Anticipated Restaurant Openings, Fall 2024

    Chicago’s Most Anticipated Restaurant Openings, Fall 2024

    The sun is setting earlier and Chicago is prepping for football and fire pit season as fall approaches. Before we wave goodbye to summer festivals, let’s check out Eater Chicago’s 11 most anticipated restaurant openings for the fall.

    But to do that, let’s look at the summer openings. From last season’s list, three restaurants were delayed to the fall. That’s not a bad conversation rate when there are a variety of reasons that can impact an opening date. For the fall, there are a pair of Beard winners with upcoming projects, a former Chicago Bear is about to open his second sports bar, a Top Chef winner is debuting a Fulton Market Roman spot for premier people-watching and a new tavern-style pizza spot in West Town.

    A rendering of Cantina Rosa.
    Cantina Rosa

    Address: 5230 S. Harper Avenue, Hyde Park

    Key Players: Erick Williams, Jesus Garcia, Paul McGee

    The fourth establishment from James Beard Award winner Erick Williams is a cocktail bar around the corner from Virtue in Hyde Park. Virtue GM Jesus Garcia is leading the project with a small bar bites menu inspired by Garcia’s native Mexico. As Williams and Garcia’s expertise is in restaurants, they’ve brought on noted barman Paul McGee to help with drinks and the flow of the space. They’re hopeful for a fall open.

    Address: 2109 W. Chicago Avenue, West Town

    Key Players: Land & Sea Dept., Beverage Director Megan Farnham, Land & Sea Culinary Director Dan Snowden

    This West Town pizzeria’s progress provides a case study of how Chicago’s tavern-style pizza has soared into America’s mainstream. Land & Sea Dept. has converted its Chicago Avenue location of Parson’s Chicken & Fish into a pizzeria utilizing the patio of the existing space. This pizzeria didn’t debut in Chicago; the first location opened in 2022 in Nashville and has earned some national attention. Look for natural wines, micro beers, salads, and more. They’re targeting a fall opening.

    Ema Glenview

    An empty dining room.

    Ema is expanding to the suburbs.
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Address: 1320 Patriot Boulevard, Glenview

    Key Players: Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, Chef CJ Jacobson

    The North Shore is getting the second location of chef CJ Jacobson’s Ema, and it’s primed to give the suburbs a fun lunch and dinner option. Jacobson, a California native, has educated himself on cuisine from Israel, Iran, and other Middle Eastern countries. He feels those cuisines haven’t been as Americanized as food from China or Italy, and he feels Ema brings that type of perspective while leaning into Lettuce’s mantra of ensuring every customer is happy. For example: a kebob is made of brisket and is served with a hoisin barbecue sauce. Expect more salad options and a cute space with a skylight. The opening date is Tuesday, September 10.

    Three tacos.

    Rosebud is going Mexican in Downtown Chicago.
    Rosebud

    Address: 130 E. Randolph Street, Millenium Park

    Key Players: Mauricio Gomez, Rosebud Restaurants

    Tavern on Green was a popular spot for downtown happy hours, but shortly after the pandemic Rosebud on Randolph took over the space, but its life was cut short. Now, Rosebud chef Mauricio Gomez, who started at the company in 1991, will helm a Mexican restaurant inside the space at the corner of Randolph and Michigan. Look for a fall opening.

    Gavroche’s facade on Wells Street.
    Gavroche

    Address: 1529 N. Wells Street, Old Town

    Key Players: Jason Chan, chef Mitchell Acuna

    Wondering where industry vet Jason Chan has been? Chan, whose resume includes Juno, Kitana, Butter, and Urban Union, has been busy with what he’s calling a boutique restaurant, a 32-seater in Old Town, taking over a space that has seen spots like BomboBar and Wild Taco fizzle. Gavroche is a French restaurant that will serve both classic and modern fare. Chan and chef Mitchell Acuna — he worked at Boka, and North Pond — will offer an 18-item menu and Chan is particularly excited about serving sturgeon roe rarely found at restaurants from Polanco Caviar. They’re looking at an October opening and Chan jokes this would be a place where James Bond would take his wife for dinner.

    Address: 51 W. Hubbard Street, River North

    Key Players: Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, beverage director and partner Kevin Beary, chef and partner Bob Broskey

    As River North recovers from the closure of Hub 51, Lettuce Entertain You is ready to introduce Chicagoans to a new bar — formerly called the Dip Inn. Inspired by an Italian restaurant, Gus’ Good Food, which stood at the same address from 1906 to 1966, the new spot, Gus’ Sip and Dip will feature a cocktail list of about 30 drinks from Kevin Beary (Three Dots and a Dash). Chef Bob Broskey’s menu will feature bar classics including dipped and traditional sandwiches. Late fall is the hope, but don’t be surprised at an early winter opening.

    A man with brown hair and a red shirt and black apron cutting food with a knife on a wooden cutting board in a kitchen.

    Joe Flamm
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Address: 1045 W. Fulton Market, Fulton Market

    Key Players: Joe Flamm, Day Off Group

    Chicago native Joe Flamm has zeroed in on Roman cuisine to star at his Fulton Market restaurant. It’s called il Carciofo and customers can look forward to Roman-style pizzas, noodles from a pasta lab, and decadent gelato and sorbet. Look for a fall opening

    A chef with folded arms.

    Chef Amar Mansuria
    Indgo

    Address: 2101 S. Morgan Street, Pilsen

    Key Players: Amar Mansuria, DJ Charlie Glitch

    Construction is underway in Pilsen on this restaurant which will include several facets of Mexican and Indian cuisine. Amar Mansuria ran Cafe Indigo along 18th Street, and now he’s looking to expand with a bar, all-day cafe, and more. Mansuria wants to debut the space in phases starting this fall.

    LOULOU

    Jason Hammel wearing his James Beard medallion.
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Key players: Jason Hammel, Amalea Tshilds, Siren Betty Design

    Address: 3057 W. Logan Boulevard, Logan Square

    At the end of August, Lula Cafe celebrated its 25th birthday with an avalanche of special dinners. Beyond the anniversary, the Logan Square icon has had an eventful summer as the restaurant won a James Beard Award in June. The fall will give Jason Hammel and company more time to apply the finishing touches at Loulou, located just a few blocks from Lula. Loulou isn’t a traditional restaurant. Hammel sees it more as a collaborative studio that will welcome artists, writers, and chefs, to host unique events that go beyond the boundaries of a typical eatery. In many ways, Loulou will channel the energy that Lula displayed when it opened in September 1999 harnessing a DIY spirit in a neighborhood that wasn’t known for its restaurants. Times have changed.

    Soul & Smoke Evanston

    A platter of barbecue ribs and sauce.

    Soul & Smoke’s ribs.
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Address: 1601 Payne Street, Evanston

    Key Players: D’Andre Carter, Heather Bublick

    Soul & Smoke, owned by the husband-and-wife duo of D’Andre Carter and Heather Bublick, continues the journey toward upgrading the original location into a full-service restaurant. Soul & Smoke sells some of the city’s best barbecue brisket and ribs, and also has locations off the Chicago River in Avondale and West Loop at the Accenture Tower (they also serve fans on the 300 level at Soldier Field). The three locations somewhat limit Carter and Bublick, who have fine dining backgrounds. The improvements to the Evanston location will allow for an expanded menu, allowing specials a regular place on the menu, and cocktails. The opening has been pushed back, but the couple is hopeful for fall.

    A man wearing a short-sleeved button down shirt and dark jeans speaking and holding a mic.

    Former Bear Israel Idonije speaks a Soldier Field food preview.
    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    Address: 1736 S. Michigan Avenue, South Loop

    Key Players: Israel Idonije, chef Stephen Gillanders

    Former Chicago Bear Israel Idonije has keyed on opening businesses in the South Loop. He’s already opened Signature, a sports bar with food from S.K.Y. chef Stephen Gillanders. The two are working on a second project, taking over the former Kroll’s South Loop. Named after A.E. Staley, the founder of the Bears, Staley’s will serve wings, chips and dips, sandwiches, and pizza. It will be open during Chicago Bear gamedays through September, starting on Sunday, September 8. The space won’t fully launch until October.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Candlelite, Rogers Park’s Iconic Tavern-Style Pizzeria, Is Opening a Second Location

    Candlelite, Rogers Park’s Iconic Tavern-Style Pizzeria, Is Opening a Second Location

    Lately, there’s been a rising tide of anger from so-called Chicago pizza purists who object to the term “tavern-style pizza.” The objections have coincided with the increased national popularity of the thin-crust pizza which is cut into squares and triangles. Even Pizza Hut has a Bizarro version.

    Through these civic shenanigans, a 74-year-old Rogers Park pizzeria is trying to adapt to the times. Candlelite, founded in 1950, has established itself as one of the city’s most beloved spots for thin-crust pies. Instantly recognizable along Western Avenue for its neon sign, it’s become a pillar of the Loyola University community and is Sister Jean-approved. They’ve been selling frozen pizzas via Gold Belly and briefly opened a stall inside the Time Out Chicago Market food hall.

    After looking at a few spots, the esteemed pizzeria is ready to open a second location this month, treading on rival DePaul University’s turf in Lincoln Park. Candlelite is partnering with the iO Theater, 1501 N. Kingsbury Street, taking over the comedy club’s food and drink service. Candlelite owner Pat Fowler says the theater’s co-owner, Larry Weiner, is a loyal customer in Rogers Park and floated the idea.

    “It’s like having two businesses in one building — two iconic Chicago businesses,” Fowler says.

    The bar will seat about 80 and be friendly to sports fans with games shown on TVs. A separate dining room — which will feel more like the original Candlelite — will seat an additional 100. They’ll also serve on two patios with 50- and 100-seat capacities. They’ve already redone the kitchens, bringing in conveyor-style pizza ovens, similar to the ones they have on Western.

    Pizzas will be available during shows with servers bringing them to tables. The tables are smaller than traditional dining room tables, so Fowler and staff had to find the appropriate pizza stands to hold full-size pies while allowing room for drinks.

    “What’s cool for us, from that standpoint, is iO is a destination, right?” Fowler says. “You know, people want to go to a show, and they’re willing to come from far away or nearby. So we’re able to draw from that.”

    Candlelite has changed hands several times over seven decades, and Fowler — a former pizza delivery man who started in 2008 — purchased the business in 2012.

    The original restaurant’s full menu — with burgers, sandwiches, and options for kids — will be available, and Fowler says they’re working on their beverage selections, hoping to potentially work with Off Color Brewing whose taproom is across the street. They’ll have some fun cocktails as Fowler reminds us that Candlelite’s famous neon sign features a martini. Speaking of the sign, crews in October will install a replica of the original outside the new restaurant. They’ve turned the sign into a logo, using it for their line of frozen pizzas.

    In Rogers Park, Candelite has become a community icon and part of the Loyola Rambler community. Fowler wants to enjoy a tight relationship with the Lincoln Park area, even if that means cavorting with Loyola’s rivals at DePaul.

    “I’ll either need Sister Jean’s permission or I’ll have to ask for forgiveness,” Fowler says with a laugh. “But we love supporting local so DePaul will definitely be something we want to incorporate openly with Sister Jean’s permission.”

    Candlelite Lincoln Park, 1501 N. Kingsbury, planned for a mid-September opening.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Michelin-Starred Atelier Will Offer Weekend Takeout as the Restaurant Waits for Repairs

    Michelin-Starred Atelier Will Offer Weekend Takeout as the Restaurant Waits for Repairs

    Atelier, the Michelin-starred restaurant in Lincoln Square, has been closed since August 24 as staff contends with a broken air conditioner and wall and ceiling damage caused by heavy rain late last month. As founder Tim Lacey and chef Christian Hunter wait for a new unit to arrive, the small business needs a way to continue in the short term. That’s why they’re offering a special five-course takeout menu from Friday, September 6 through Sunday, September 8.

    Lacey admits that his staff is having flashbacks to the start of the pandemic when fine dining restaurants across the country did the unthinkable in offering carryout meals as government officials kept dining rooms closed to curb the spread of COVID. Many fine chefs never thought they would be in the position of creating takeout meals. Chicago’s restaurants leaned into comfort foods which travel well in bags and to-go containers. Even Ever chef Curtis Duffy began selling burgers in December 2020. Atelier, which replaced another Michelin-starred restaurant, Elizabeth, had been blazing its own path and was named a 2024 James Beard Award semifinalist for Best New Restaurant.

    The takeout menu — no substitutions — consists of a pita and mezze course (baba ghanoush, pickled summer squash, fermented garlic scape tapenade, rhubarb chutney); grilled Korean pork sausage Bibb lettuce wraps (sea beans, kohlrabi/kimchi slaw); root vegetable fasolada (diced parsnips, celery root, sunchokes, rutabagas); lasagna in lamb neck ragu with ricotta and sourdough garlic knots. and a nectarine and pear galette with caramelized whey, allspice-cinnamon gelee, and spruce chantilly cream.

    Hunter and Lacey are hopeful the air conditioning can be fixed by Tuesday, September 10, and that they’ll be back open on Wednesday, September 11. Check their Instagram for updates.

    Atelier’s five-course takeout menu is available Friday, September 6 through Sunday, September 8 with pickup between 5:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Order via Tock.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Foxtrot Will Reopen First Store This Week, Nearly Five Months Since Sudden Closures

    Foxtrot Will Reopen First Store This Week, Nearly Five Months Since Sudden Closures

    Four and half months after suddenly closing stores in Chicago, Texas, and Washington, D.C., Foxtrot will attempt a comeback by opening its first store this week. Outfox Hospitality, the company that ran those 33 stores filed for bankruptcy in May, leaving a wake of angry vendors, workers scrambling to find new jobs, and accusations of breaking federal labor law. Since then, a new entity has been formed by the chain’s co-founder who says he’ll return the company to its roots by showcasing cool snacks made by local artisans and avoid the pitfalls that lead to the chain’s failure.

    The first store is scheduled to open on Thursday, September 5 at 23 W. Maple Street in Gold Coast, according to a news release. An Old Town location at the corner of North Avenue and Wells Street will follow, though an opening date hasn’t been announced. A few vendors Eater spoke with last week said one of the reasons they joined the comeback effort is Foxtrot isn’t rushing to reopen all the stores they closed. Mike LaVitola, who founded Foxtrot in 2013, and is now chairman of the newly named Foxtrot Cafe & Market. He was part of an effort that bought Foxtrot’s assets in an auction for $2.5 million. LaVitola told Eater he wanted to focus on “getting it right” at individual locations rather than opening multiple stores at once. The initial plan announced was to open about 15 stores scattered in Chicago and Texas, with the majority in Chicago. There are two new details from the company’s latest release: They’re not specifying the number of stores anymore (last week, LaVitola said they were negotiating leases in unannounced locations including Wicker Park and Willis Tower.) The other details might be bitter for those in Austin, Texas, as it appears Foxtrot is focusing on reopening in Dallas, at least in the interim. Austin was home to four locations.

    The closures caused a nationwide commotion in April, with a combination of anger (a class-action lawsuit alleging Outfox violated federal law by failing to provide proper notice for a mass layoff is pending; October 1 is the next court date), sadness (customers who lived nearby grew attached, one famously bemoaned moving to their residence to be near a Foxtrot), and resentment (some South Siders who had never been to a Foxtrot wondered why folks were being so dramatic). Foxtrot had found a niche in North Side Chicago neighborhoods as a corner store with trendy snacks, a coffee bar, and a cafe space to get work done or to sip wine or beer. It was a kind of third place for former office workers who had transitioned into a hybrid work-from-home schedule during the pandemic. Foxtrot saw an opportunity to scale, and after merging with local Chicago grocer Dom’s Kitchen & Market — which also had its own ambitious expansion plans — in 2022, Foxtrot announced intentions to open as many as 100 locations by 2024. By that point, LaVitola was no longer chief executive officer. He says he was pushed out to an advisory role. Foxtrot began opening in neighborhoods with pricey real estate like Fulton Market and at Wrigley Field. They were spending in the hope of getting noticed.

    That detail is important as vendors have been gunshy about joining Foxtrot 2.0 and worried the chain would repeat mistakes. LaVitola told them he wasn’t involved in a leadership role at Outfox. Some have accepted LaVitola’s reassurances, saying they need Foxtrot’s customer base. Others have picked other retail routes.

    But, as LaVitola points out, Foxtrot is about more than gourmet gummies or hot dog-flavored potato chips. The coffee bar was “the biggest revenue driver” — it was so much that nearby coffee shops were losing business to Foxtrot. The previous interaction of Foxtrot made a big deal of partnering with Philadelphia’s La Colombe. That relationship will continue, but the new Foxtrot will also stock items from local roasters Metric and Kyoto Black. They’re also adding new food items to complement its morning breakfast tacos, which will remain. Look for new panini sandwiches, salads, lunch bowls, and cookies.

    Expect to see growing pains. As of last week, LaVitola wasn’t sure if customers would need to create new profiles on the store’s app, which was vital to the chain’s business. Before it was a brick-and-mortar, Foxtrot used its app for liquor and beer delivery. Still, LaVitola says he’s committed to “delivering an awesome experience in the stores.” One way is making sure customers better connect with the stories behind the people who make their products. He feels the previous iteration of Foxtrot relied too much on its website to do that.

    “There’s just going to be a lot more of that content — for lack of a better word — and storytelling happening in the store versus online,” LaVitola says. “Online is still really important, and it’s still there, but I think that gap is going to be bridged.”

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Soldier Field Welcomes Newcomers Levy and Boka For 2024 Chicago Bears Season

    Soldier Field Welcomes Newcomers Levy and Boka For 2024 Chicago Bears Season

    Shortly after the Chicago Bears drafted Caleb Williams with the No. 1 pick in the 2024 NFL Draft, the team’s culinary staff began brainstorming how to incorporate the star college quarterback’s “Bear Claw” hand gesture.

    A chef standing with a chef hat.

    Levy Executive Chef Ryan Craig invented the Campfire Milkshake for Sox fans.

    Kiosks.

    These self-serve kiosks use AI and are new for 2024.

    These grab-and-go items can be purchased in the self-serve kiosk.

    Levy Executive Chef Ryan Craig who already created a viral stadium hit earlier this year with the Chicago White Sox, perhaps providing the South Siders with the highlight of their woeful season with his invention, the Campfire Milkshake, and his team recognized that Williams had provided them with an opportunity. During a media food preview on Wednesday, August 28 at Solider Field, the Levy team unfurled a trio of Bear Claw items. There was a giant pretzel with beer cheese dip and cinnamon-cream cheese icing on the claw (available at the United Club South Market and in the suites); a collaboration with Do-Rite Donuts with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, toffee piece, orange and blue M&Ms, and whipped cream (United Club Bistro, Miller Lite Midway; and suite ticketholders can order a giant cookie with orange and blue icing from Sugar Bliss, a bakery located inside the Palmer House Hilton.

    Craig and his staff are trying to match the fan enthusiasm with high expectations as Williams has the potential to give the Bears the perennial All-Pro quarterback the franchise has lacked. Sports food is more fun when the team is actually competitive. Not that Chicago fans know about that.

    This doughnut-cookie hybrid is also shaped like a bear claw.

    It’s also an opportunity for Levy, which earlier in the year outbid incumbent Delaware North to take over food operations at Soldier Field. The Chicago company already provides services to Guaranteed Rate Field, Wrigley Field, and the United Center. Levy took over this summer right after the Rolling Stone concert on June 30, and there’s been a transition period as Levy rebrands all of Soldier Field’s concession stands. The process will continue over the next 10 days. The goal was to complete the transformation by the September 8 home opener versus the Tenessee Titans. New names include “Burnham Bar,” “606 Sausage Co.,” and “Shoreline BBQ.” Connie’s Pizza remains at the stadium, but the name’s been changed on the facade to Pizza Soldato (Sections 119, 132, 152, 231, 322, 351, 435, and 443).

    Shoreline (Section 134) is where fans will find a hot dog inspired by rookie wide received Rome Odunze, the No. 9 pick in this year’s draft. The Odunze Dog is a jalapeño-cheddar dog surrounded by Italian beef and topped with spicy giardiniera, cheddar crumbles, and secret sauce. It’s a salty take on an Italian beef combo.

    The smash burgers are created by Boka chef Chris Pandel.

    Levy’s presence provides an opportunity for one of Chicago’s most decorated restaurant groups. For the first time, food from James Beard Award-winning Boka Restaurant Group will be available inside a stadium. (Stephanie Izard’s taco stand inside the United Center is an independent venture unaffiliated with Boka, her regular restaurant partner). They’ll serve hand-breaded chicken fingers from GG’s Chicken Shop, with all the fancy dipping sauces. GG’s (Sections 125 and 150) is a fast-causal spot with food from Boka Executive Chef Lee Wolen, a noted Cleveland Browns fan. Next door, at the new Burger Bar (Section 126), they’ll also serve smash burgers created by Boka Group chef Chris Pandel (Swift & Sons, Cira). In October 2022, Levy acquired a minority stake in Boka which opened the door to collaborations. They’ve already collaborated on food at the Art Institute of Chicago. Will Boka also feed Blackhawk and Bulls fans at the United Center and Chicago’s North and South side baseball fans? The company’s lips are sealed… for now.

    Two sausage sandwiches on French rolls with lots of toppings.

    Rookie wideout Rome Odunze has his own dog, a tribute to Chicago’s Italian beef combo.

    A pile of pork chop sandwiches.

    The Honey Bear is named for the team’s old cheerleading squad.

    For years, AI and analytics have promised to revolutionize the way professional sports teams are assembled. Fans are now seeing the impact on the stadium food experience. New for 2024 is more than 60 self-checkout kiosks with AI-powered cameras that recognize cans of beer, slices of pizza, boxes of popcorn, and other concession items. Made by a company called Mashgin, these kiosks are installed for faster checkout with a claim that they can increase sales.

    While Craig didn’t create a sequel to the Campfire Shake for the Bears — he says he needed to let the White Sox have that and that winter might be too cold for ice cream — there are two notable new beverages. Former Bears special teams star Patrick ​​Mannelly has collaborated with suburban Mundelein’s Tighthead Brewery on a beer, Longsnapper IPA. There’s also a new cocktail with a nod to forgotten history. The Bears are one of a handful of teams without cheerleaders, disbanding the squad, called the Honey Bears, after the 1985 season. For 2024, the team has unveiled a drink with lemonade, simple syrup, and honey called Honey Bear. Add vodka for an upgrade. Levy’s senior director of operations for Soldier Field, Kara Jacobs, suggested the name as she was reminded of when the Honey Bears made visit when she was part of a pom pom team growing up in suburban Libertyville

    Pizza Soldato is just Connie’s Pizza in disguise.

    Levy has been busy rebranding all of Soldier FIeld’s signage.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • The Best Pasta in Chicago

    The Best Pasta in Chicago

    Low lighting, dramatic chandeliers, and jeweled tones bring plenty of charm to dining inside at Adalina, though the Gold Coast restaurant’s tree-lined patio is also a popular spot to sip spritzes when the weather permits. Any seat is good for twirling spaghetti alla vongole with pickled chili or biting into perfectly plump corn agnolotti, After dinner, head to the downstairs Rose Lounge for a nightcap. Make a reservation through OpenTable.

    Samantha Nelson

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  • A French Bistro Will Debut Across the Street From Holy Name Cathedral

    A French Bistro Will Debut Across the Street From Holy Name Cathedral

    In the urban-suburban trajectory, restaurants typically start in the city before making their way to smaller towns around it. Opening in early September, Petit Pomeroy reverse engineers that story as the smaller sibling to Winnetka’s Pomeroy, which opened in September 2021 on the North Shore.

    “Pomeroy is the highest-grossing restaurant we have in Ballyhoo,” says Ryan O’Donnell, Ballyhoo founder and CEO. “The suburbs have been very good to us.”

    Above Ballyhoo’s Gemini Grill, which opened earlier this year at upscale residences One Chicago in River North, Petit Pomeroy is one of four restaurants Ballyhoo Hospitality (Coda di Volpe, Old Pueblo Cantina, DeNucci’s, and Gemini among others) will be opening in the next seven months. The other three will be in suburban Highland Park and Glenview.

    “When we were doing Gemini Grill, we retrofitted the second floor to be a restaurant, but we didn’t know what exactly,” O’Donnell says. “We wanted to see what was happening in the local dining scene and the landscape and figure out what would be best suited there.”

    Classic French fare like roasted chicken are on the menu.
    Ballyhoo Hospitality

    With the success of Pomeroy and the recent growth of French restaurants in Chicago (Obelix, La Serre, Bistro Monadnock, etc.), the circumstances felt right to bring that concept to the city.

    “Sometimes people can be intimidated by French food as they think it’s fine dining or heavy with lots of sauces,” O’Donnell says. “But bistro food is comfort food at its heart and core.”

    While Pomeroy leans more into brasserie territory, Petit Pomeroy will be more of a classic French bistro. Petit Pomeroy is smaller in size (90 seats versus 280) and O’Donnell says the second-floor kitchen is about a quarter the size of Winnetka’s.

    “We couldn’t do the big, expansive menu,” says O’Donnell. “We had to pare it down, which allowed us to focus on the greatest hits. It’s not a complete rinse and repeat, but we’re not going to change a lot of the stuff we do really well.”

    The warm tomato tart with dried heirloom tomatoes, fromage blanc, and herbes de Provence inside a puff pastry shell made the move. “It might not be the most classic French thing in the world, but it’s been a big mover in Winnetka,” says O’Donnell.

    Winnetka’s popular plats du jour are making the journey too, including top-seller short rib Bourguignon with pommes purée. “Last night we sold 48 in Winnetka,” says O’Donnell. Look for other French bistro classics, such as bouillabaisse and escargots.

    Profiteroles Glacées with vanilla bean gelato and warm chocolate.
    Ballyhoo Hospitality

    Beverages will follow a similar Gallic route with an emphasis on French wines, including sparking and Champagne, with cocktails such as the French 75, Le Spritz, and Le Pamplemousse.

    For the interior, red leather banquettes and booths are paired with bistro-style chairs. Touches include brass railings, vintage posters, and wood paneling. A bar will seat eight. From its second-floor perch, views of Holy Name Cathedral across the street will be front and center.

    “The drama of the room’s setting will surprise people,” says O’Donnell. “People don’t know what’s up on that second floor so I think that will be the big wow factor.”

    Petit Pomeroy, 748 N. State Street, scheduled for a mid-September opening.

    Lisa Shames

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  • Foxtrot Brings Back 45 Former Vendors as September Return Inches Closer

    Foxtrot Brings Back 45 Former Vendors as September Return Inches Closer

    When Foxtrot relaunches in September and reopens its Gold Coast store, the chain of shoppy shops will stock items from many local brands familiar to fans.

    Foxtrot co-founder Mike LaVitola is back leading the newly formed company, separate from Outfox Hospitality, the entity that filed for bankruptcy in May. . It’s supported by New York-based private holding company Further Point Enterprises. The new Foxtrot has gathered 45 former vendors to be part of the relaunch. The list is packed with Chicago brands like Metric Coffee, Marz Community Brewing, All Together Now, Big Fat Cookie, Do-Rite Donuts, Tempesta Market, and Freeman House Chai.

    But not all brands will return. Some refused, frustrated by the sudden closures, saying they’re focusing on other retail opportunities. Others, for example, Tortello, the Wicker Park pasta restaurant, weren’t asked to return. Foxtrot does have an agreement with Gemma Foods, a West Town pasta maker. While LaVitola praised the product, he says the new version of Foxtrot will be more curated.

    “While it sounds good that you have all this choice, you actually kind of lose your point of view,” LaVitola says. “And it just becomes, you know, it becomes too hard to manage.”

    LaVitola adds he’s seen a lot of brands he’s wanted to add over the last year or two: “Now I get the chance to do that, which is just exciting.”

    While the initial plan was to open eight Foxtrots in Chicago, with Old Town following Gold Coast, more locations are on their way including “a couple in Texas.” In June, LaVitola floated the comeback would include around 15 stores total. There are no plans to reopen in D.C. LaVitola, who founded Foxtrot in 2013, teased the unannounced reopenings of locations on Wicker Park’s Six Corners and inside the Willis Tower: “We’re looking to open new stores once we feel like we’ve got our operations, just totally, totally nailed down in the stores that we have,” LaVitola says. He adds there will also be changes to the coffee and hot food options with details upcoming.

    Many brands have benefited from selling items at Foxtrot, which gives them a chance to grow their customer base and draw attention from bigger national retailers. However, much of that goodwill evaporated on April 23 when the chain, the 33 locations scattered in Chicago, Texas, and Washington, D.C., closed without warning. For the past four months, vendors have been licking their wounds trying to figure out how to make up for lost sales and inventory. After LaVitola regained control of Foxtrot, part of a group that made a $2.2 million winning auction bid in May, Foxtrot 2.0 began making its pitches to vendors, attempting to convince them they had learned from past mistakes, that the new venture would return Foxtrot to its roots in aiding small businesses by showcasing their trendy snacks to diners who frequent chic restaurants with disposable income to spend on items made by well-known chefs.

    LaVitola says it’s been a whirlwind few months as he “gets the band back together” in talking with the old company’s former workers, landlords, and vendors, using them to knit the new entity. His role changed at the original Foxtrot in April 2023 after the company named Liz Williams as chief executive officer. Lavitola says he was no longer in control of the company, even though listed as a non-executive chairman: “Probably advisor is the best title,” he says.

    In November 2023, Foxtrot would later morph into Outfox Hospitality after merging with Dom’s Kitchen & Market, a two-location grocery chain that also had designs on expansion.

    Vendors who spoke with Eater shared trust issues and worried that Foxtrot needed accountability for putting hundreds of workers out of jobs without warning. Many weren’t paid for their food delivered, which remained at stores, visible through windows. Some received court notices as Foxtrot’s original company filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy. They were free to fill out paperwork to pursue payments, but vendors had little hope that they would recover any money.

    LaVitola and company were involved in several email exchanges and meetings to convince vendors to return. Justin Doggett of cold brew coffee maker Kyoto Black is part of the relaunch and was assured that the mistakes of the old Foxtrot wouldn’t be repeated as LaVitola wasn’t involved in that version of the company. He saw it as a positive when he saw former Foxtrot workers were back with the company. After Foxtrot closed, Kyoto Black was left scrambling looking for ways to sell its coffee to make up for lost sales.

    Doggett acknowledges there’s a narrative of LaVitola capitalizing on a devalued company, snatching it up, and restarting it without accountability. He says that’s not true.

    “The guy who founded it was not involved when this happened,” Doggett says. “…He saw an opportunity to kind of take this company that he started and buy it back and kind of like, uh, revitalize the image and the mission of it.”

    Foxtrot has begun offering cash on delivery to more vendors. That’s not a change for wine and beer makers but for other vendors — especially ones who make their items fresh, items that aren’t shelf stable — payment up front provides peace of mind. LaVitola mentions improving vendor communication about the number and frequency of deliveries and marketing support. Vendors also mentioned they don’t have long-term agreements in place. They can leave if the situation goes sideways.

    One vendor that wasn’t listed on the Foxtrot’s news release was Pretty Cool Ice Cream, the dessert company founded by former Publican pastry chef Dana Salls Cree. LaVitola says the provided list was preliminary. Customers will still be able to buy Pretty Cool bars at Foxtrot. Salls Cree confirms Foxtrot has ordered an assortment of her ice cream shop’s classic flavors. Pretty Cool wants to take advantage of Foxtrot customers who use the chain to connect with local products, Salls Cree says. However, there won’t be any special flavor collaborations in the near future. As Foxtrot remained in limbo, Salls Cree began partnering with other parties; Foxtrot lost its place on the collaboration schedule. Given the abrupt shutdown of the original venture and given how the company left so many high and dry, Salls Cree took her time weighing the pros and cons of returning to Foxtrot.

    “It’s such a sliver of our business,” she says. “But the question that keeps coming in — ’why is this taking up so much emotional bandwidth?’”

    James Beard Award winner Mindy Segal says she hasn’t been doing business with Foxtrot since Mindy’s Bakery opened in Bucktown. Foxtrot has sold Mindy’s branded hot chocolate mixes and other items. Segal says they have plenty of other business but would consider working with Foxtrot in the future.

    Meanwhile, Marz Community Brewing will once again sell beer and other beverages at Foxtrot. As the craft beer market has imploded, it’s important for Marz to be available in as many stores as possible, says Ed Marszewski. He’s hopeful the new ownership can clean up the “garbage fire” left by the previous regime.

    “They are going back to doing right to small guys, indies, etc. a platform,” Marszewski says. “We need places like this. Pre-merger, they really helped small manufacturers get traction. I think they want to do right again. Plus, they didn’t screw us over — our invoices were always paid.”

    Hannah Harris Green contributed to this report

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Obelix New To-Go Pastries Quickly Sell Out

    Obelix New To-Go Pastries Quickly Sell Out

    At a time when some restaurants are downsizing their pastry departments or eliminating them and outsourcing their desserts, the folks at Obelix are leaning into their sweet side more than ever, creating opportunities for their pastry chefs in the process.

    For Courtney Kenyon, executive pastry chef at Obelix and Le Bouchon, and Louise “Lou” Turner, Obélix head baker, along with Obélix pastry sous chef Ashleigh Lyons, the opportunity comes in the form of a new weekly to-go croissant program at the River North French restaurant.

    Turner, who worked at Oriole and owned a bakery in Cincinnati’s Findlay Market, mentioned to Kenyon, a vet of numerous Michelin-starred restaurants (Oriole, North Pond, Miami’s Le Bouchon) that she wanted to offer croissants to-go as a way for her industry friends to be able to try her brunch-only pastries. A few weeks later, Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey, the brothers behind Obelix, Le Bouchon, and Taqueria Chingón, had the same idea.

    “We’re just trying to get more of our pastries in more people’s hands,” says Oliver Poilevey. “I love pastries, and I love getting dessert. It’s important as it’s the last impression you get in a restaurant and shows you are really trying to make the experience special.”

    The selections rotate as a new menu appears on Tock every Monday for weekend pickup. Pastries are available in three packs. A $25 traditional croissant three-pack features butter, pain au chocolat, and pistachio. A $36 specialty box consists of a rotating trio of sweet, savory, and filled croissants. This week’s specialty selection contains a black raspberry milkshake croissant, a peach cream cheese danish, and a potato gratin danish. Online ordering closes on Thursday morning with pick-up at Obelix on Saturday and Sunday.

    Obelix has a new to-go pastry program.
    Obelix

    The pastries come in three packs, but there will also be a few surprises.
    Obelix

    For Turner, who Oliver Poilevey calls “a lamination wizard,” the to-go program has other benefits, especially for her specialty croissants. “I want to highlight seasonality, the farms we source from, and cross-utilize things that might go to waste,” she says. “The specialty box is also inspired by my childhood, various experiences in my life, and my own culture.”

    To-go pastries are a way Kenyon has quickly made her mark as earlier in June she took over the pastry reins from Antonio Incadella, Obelix’s opening pastry chef. Incadella has moved over to Pilsen, where he’s head of pastry at Mariscos San Pedros — a partner in the restaurant alongside Oliver Poilevey and Taqueria Chingon’s Marcos Ascencio.

    Turner arrives at Obelix at 3:30 a.m. on Thursdays to prep the croissants. Friday is dedicated to lamination, the time-consuming process of folding and rolling the butter into the dough, which gives the croissants their desired uber-thin layers. Baking takes place on Saturdays and Sundays. “It will just be increasing the numbers we are already doing,” says Turner of the restaurant’s signature brunch croissants.

    “My job as a pastry chef is to provide tools and assist the people on my team so they can best drive, learn, and develop,” adds Kenyon.

    Plans are already in the works to grow the to-go pastry program. “Once we feel comfortable, we will offer specialty croissants that highlight ingredients like truffles or do a pastry special like canelés,” says Kenyon, adding that holiday baked goods are an option too.

    “I’m most excited about expanding more into the community of Chicago and have different parts of the city see what we are doing here,” Turner says. “Brunch is very busy, and our dinner service is wonderful but allowing people to take a little piece of us home with them is special.”

    Obelix, 700 N. Sedgwick Street, weekend to-go pastries start Mondays via Tock.

    Lisa Shames

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  • Actor Mark Hamill Gets a Rise From Wieners Circle’s 3-Inch Trump Dogs

    Actor Mark Hamill Gets a Rise From Wieners Circle’s 3-Inch Trump Dogs

    The Democratic National Convention was obsessed with Chicago dogs last week with politicians and celebrities making social media posts and recording video segments from various street food stands. Over the weekend, Luke Skywalker himself, Mark Hamill posted a photo of himself in front pointing to the Wieners Circle’s famous sign while making a hand gesture, referring to the hot dog’s stand’s DNC special mocking former President Donald Trump. The sign read: “Now Serving Trump Footlongs It’s 3 Inches.”

    Wieners Circle first offered the special back in 2016 as a response to Trump’s comments during a Republican debate. Hamill attended the DNC and was at a fan convention over the weekend in the suburbs. He’s been an outspoken critic of Trump. The post may have reminded fans of the Spaceballs, a parody of Star Wars in which galactic rivals Darth Helmet (Rick Moranis) and Lone Starr (Bill Pullman) debate the sizes of their “Schwartzes.”

    Now, if only the Wieners Circle could have served Hamill a Blue Milkshake.

    More hot dog shrinkage

    Speaking of hot dogs, news has spread about how a new investor at Portillo’s wants to shake things up. On Thursday, August 15, Engaged Capital disclosed it held a 10 percent stake in the company with a mission to “improve operations, optimize restaurant performance, increase margins and grow brand awareness as Portillo’s expands nationally.” Crain’s described this as the agenda of an activist investor writing Engaged wants Portillo’s to open smaller locations; a signature trait of the chain was large spaces with historical artifacts. The goal is to cut costs as the hot dog giant aims to open “at least 920 restaurants around the country in about 20 years,” according to Crain’s.

    Roti declares Chapter 11

    Chicago-based fast-casual chain Roti has declared Chapter 11 bankruptcy and is seeking investors or new owners to rescue its 20 locations scattered across Chicago, Minnesota, and Washington, D.C. Ownership hopes to keep the restaurants open during the process, according to Restaurant Business. The assembly-line chain was vaguely Mediterranean and has attempted to reinvent itself with new branding and tweaks to the menu over the years. The chain was founded in 2007.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Inside Mirra, Where a Medley of Mexican and Indian Flavors Coexist

    Inside Mirra, Where a Medley of Mexican and Indian Flavors Coexist

    Vice President Kamala Harris — the daughter of an Indian woman and Jamaican man — took the podium on Thursday night at the Democratic National Convention at the United Center, three weeks after former President Donald Trump lied about her identity during an interview in Chicago. This may resurface those silly concerns about whether something can be two things at once.

    Mirra, a unique restaurant that mixes South Asian and Mexican flavors, is out to prove that duality can exist. The restaurant debuted on Thursday in Bucktown adding another notable recent opening to the area surrounding Damen and Armitage avenues. Neither of the restaurant’s two chefs have Mexican roots. Zubair Mohajir is a James Beard Award nominee for his work at Coach House, his fine-dining Indian restaurant in Wicker Park. Rishi Manoj Kumar is ethnically Indian and from Singapore. He learned to love Mexican food as he worked with Rick Bayless at Bar Sotano in River North.

    South Asian and Mexican flavors mingle at Mirra.

    Their restaurant aims to highlight the tales of South Asian migration in America, stories like how Harris’ mother arrived when she was 19 to go to college. It’s how Northern Indians from Punjab settled in California to build railroads and mingled with Mexicans in the late 19th century. That produced the ubiquitous roti quesadilla which ditched the traditional Mexican tortilla for Indian flatbread. Mirra’s version features roasted mushroom and Amul (a processed cheese from India; the chefs at Logan Square’s Superkhana International use it in their famed butter chicken calzone). The opening menu also features a dum biryani with braised lamb barbacoa. This isn’t a typical biryani diners would buy from a street vendor. Dum biryani is fancy and sealed with a pastry shell over the rice and meat to preserve the aromatics.

    A close up of table with plates

    Mohajir enjoys chatting with customers at the chef’s table at Coach House. It was there where Mirra took shape as the Southern Indian chef, who grew up in Qatar, found a story of an Indian girl, Mirra, kidnapped and taken to Mexico. He used Mirra’s history as inspiration. A popular Mexico City restaurant, Masala y Maiz, also played a role. In 2022, chefs ​​Norma Listman and Saqib Keval traveled to Chicago and popped up at Bar Sotano after befriending Kumar. Listman is a native of Texcoco, a city about 15 miles northeast of Mexico City. Keval’s parents are from Ethiopia and Kenya; their families were from India, arriving in Africa two centuries prior. They met while working in San Francisco’s Bay Area.

    A bowl sealed with a pastry.

    Dum biryani with lamb barbacoa sealed with roti.

    As the idea for Mirra matured, Mohajir and Kumar realized they needed to be more honest. Instead of aping Listman and Keval’s template, they needed to tell their own stories; neither one of them is Mexican. So they shifted and changed the restaurant’s design and changed the menu to better reflect their ideals.

    While a tasting menu will eventually arrive on Wednesday, September 4, the opening a la carte menu is accessible with crispy tacos filled with Mexican green curry and scallops, a tandoori and adobo Cornish hen, and a carne asada made with a 40-day dry-aged ribeye and salsa macha. It’s served with mashed roasted eggplant, known as bagan bharta to South Asians. A happy hour menu includes birria samosas, oysters, and drinks from partner David Mor. Mor made the drinks for Mohajir’s Lilac Tiger — the bar in front of Coach House — and has his own establishment. Truce, just up the street from Mirra, was one of the bigger bar openings of 2024. Tony Perez, who also works a Lilac Tiger, curates the wines.

    Chicken plated with sauce.

    Tandoori and adobo Cornish hen.

    Meen Moilee (yellowfin tuna, moilee-style leche de tigre, confit Sungold tomatoes, avocado)

    Meen Moilee (yellowfin tuna, moilee-style leche de tigre, confit Sungold tomatoes, avocado)

    Crispy Tacos (Hudson Bay scallops, Mexican green curry, nopales pico, crispy fenugreek roti)

    Crispy Tacos (Hudson Bay scallops, Mexican green curry, nopales pico, crispy fenugreek roti)

    Desserts at traditional South Asian restaurants are sometimes lacking. At Mirra, they’ve combined rasmalai, a Northern Indian sweet made with cheese, with tres leches cake serving it with saffron-cardamom-infused milk. There’s also a rice pudding which should remind diners of flan with nods to kheer, an Indian sweet made with sugar and milk.

    Chef Oliver Poilevey, whose family’s French restaurant, Le Bouchon, is down the street from Mirra, says his father, Jean-Claude Poilevey, would not approve of his son using Vietnamese fish sauce in French food. Fusion is a term that’s used sparingly, with chefs fearful that cultures are mashed together without respect for tradition. That’s not what’s happening at Mirra, Kumar and Mohajir say. Their dishes are created thoughtfully. It’s not just about combining cultures by hastily stuffing tandoori chicken into a tortilla and celebrating. Mirra shows how Mexican and South Asian spices and food can complement each other without worry if this is ridiculous cosplay.

    Walk through the space below.

    Mirra, 1954 W. Armitage Avenue, open 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday; tasting menu starts Wednesday, September 4. Reservations via OpenTable.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • The DNC Brings Wiener-Obsessed Politicians, Journalists, and Comedians to Chicago

    The DNC Brings Wiener-Obsessed Politicians, Journalists, and Comedians to Chicago

    While the Democratic National Convention may not be a boon for Chicago’s restaurant industry, local politicians, journalists, and comedians are still planning on sampling the city’s culinary delights this week. Some point to a lack of variety in those diets (we have some suggestions for that); there’s certainly a tendency to stay close to downtown and visit the same North Side neighborhoods. Still, there’s some fun to be had, even if these visitors have limited taste buds and stick with pizza and hot dogs. Eater scoured the convention floor and asked politicians what they put on their hot dogs.

    Lori Lightfoot

    Former Chicago Mayor Lori Lightfoot.
    Scott Olson/Getty Images

    After taking a nearly year-long hiatus, Lightfoot returned to the media circuit this week with DNC analysis on CBS Chicago. The former mayor, who chose an unorthodox smorgasbord for her Super Bowl spread in 2019, prefers a “modified Chicago-style” dog.

    “Brown mustard, dill pickle slices, tomatoes, sport peppers, and celery salt,” Lightfoot says, “Sometimes also giardiniera instead of the sport peppers. But sometimes if the hot dog is really good and grilled right, just a dog in a bun.”

    Jaime Harrison

    Jaime R. Harrison, Chairman of the Democratic National Committee, speaks onstage during the first day of the Democratic National Convention at the United Center on August 19, 2024 in Chicago, Illinois. Delegates, politicians, and Democratic party supporters are in Chicago for the convention, concluding with current Vice President Kamala Harris accepting her party’s presidential nomination. The DNC takes place from August 19-22.

    DNC chair Jamie Harrison.
    Alex Wong/Getty Images

    The DNC chair kept his restaurant plans under wraps but his spokespeople tell us he’s a slaw dog fan. Harrison tops his dog off with chili, coleslaw, relish, ketchup, mustard, and onions.

    Grace Kuhlenschmidt attends the “Boys Go To Jupiter” premiere during the 2024 Tribeca Festival at Village East Cinema on June 07, 2024 in New York City.

    The Daily Show correspondent Grace Kuhlenschmidt.
    Arturo Holmes/Getty Images for Tribeca Festival

    The 28-year-old self-described “straight lesbian comedian” and Daily Show correspondent has a soft spot for Roost Chicken & Biscuits with locations in River West and Wrigleyville.

    “I was living in Chicago when the pandemic hit and on the news they started talking about how we were going to go into lockdown,” she says. “My roommate Andrew and I turned to each other like ‘We need to order The Roost NOW.’ So we did and that was the last thing I ate before I started wiping down my groceries.”

    During the DNC, Kuhlenschmidt will return to her old favorite and order the House-Style fried chicken sandwich with cheese on a biscuit, plus the chocolate chip bread pudding. When it comes to hot dogs, Kuhlenschmidt took a swipe at Chicago tradition: “When it comes to hot dogs, I need ketchup,” she says. “I really don’t care what Chicago or the National Hot Dog Association say. Ketchup is a divine condiment.”

    DNC senior advisor Keiana Barrett (the chief diversity & engagement officer for developer Sterling Bay) plans on sticking close to McCormick Place and patronizing Williams Inn, the pizzeria and sports bar in the South Loop, owned by the same Black family as Jeffery Pub, one of the oldest queer bars in the country. She’ll start with the hot wings, “fried hard” with ranch dressing, and deep-dish pizza with mushrooms. Barrett only eats turkey hot dogs and prefers them grilled with mustard, barbecue sauce, relish, pickle, and a dash of seasoned salt.

    Christy George

    Christy George, executive director of the host committee, speaks while the Democratic National Convention holds a media walkthrough on Jan. 18, 2024, at the United Center.

    DNC executive director Christy George.
    Brian Cassella/Chicago Tribune/Tribune News Service via Getty Images

    Winner of the 2022 Banchet Award for Best Alternative Dining, Sinhá should expect a visit from the DNC’s executive director Christy George (Gov. Pritzker’s first assistant deputy governor for budget and economy). Among her top picks at the Brazilian restaurant: mango salsa, plantains, chicken curry, and steak.

    “Best Brazilian food in the city recently had it and can’t wait to go back,” George tells Eater — not that there are a ton of Brazilian options in Chicago. “Their patio is intimate and beautiful, it’s a local woman-owned restaurant, and the food is killer.”

    When it comes to hot dogs, George ignores Chicago-style rules.

    “Ketchup and mustard, unapologetically,” she says.

    Don Harmon

    Senate President Don Harmon arrives before Illinois Gov. J.B. Pritzker delivered his State of the State and budget address at the Illinois State Capitol on Feb. 21, 2024, in Springfield, Illinois.

    Illinois Senate President Don Harmon.
    Brian Cassella/Chicago Tribune/Tribune News Service via Getty Images

    The Illinois state senate president hasn’t had much time to sit down and dine during the DNC.

    “I wish I had been eating anywhere but off the fat of the land, wherever food is put in front of me from reception to reception,” Harmon says on the convention floor on Tuesday before the delegates cast their vote for Vice President Kamala Harris.

    “Hot dogs you’ve only got three choices: you can eat it Chicago-style, you can eat it with mustard and onions, or you can eat it plain,” Harmon says, adding that he’ll eat any of those three options depending on the circumstance.

    “If I can’t spill I’m not above a plain hot dog, mustard, and onions when I’m low-key and Chicago style if someone else is fixing it,” he says.

    Leigh Giangreco

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  • Gov. JB Pritzker Crowns Malört the DNC’s Unofficial Shot in Chicago

    Gov. JB Pritzker Crowns Malört the DNC’s Unofficial Shot in Chicago

    Politics can be bitter, but no one was prepared for over the weekend when Illinois Gov. JB Pritzker declared Jeppson’s Malört “as the unofficial shot of the Democratic National Convention.”

    The governor announced his unofficial declaration on Saturday after appearing in a video segment with former White House press secretary Jen Psaki. The bitter and yellowish spirit is both reviled and beloved in Chicago where passionate opinions have made it a divisive topic.

    “If you come to Chicago, every Chicagoan knows you got to have a shot of Malört,” Pritzker tells Psaki. “This is a liqueur that Chicagoans take — I’m not saying it’s the best-tasting liqueur, I’m just saying that it’s the one that if you want to prove your mettle, you got to have a shot.”

    The two proceeded to ham it up while enjoying the infamous shot with the governor high-fiving Psaki and praising her, “Well done!”

    Psaki pauses as her tastebuds realize what she has done: “Whoo! That has an aftereffect.”

    This leaves an uneasy feeling for Chicagoans. There might be a portion happy to see naive politicians and journalists suffer while trying to stomach that first shock shot. But watching Pritzker’s segment, recorded in the lobby of the Hotel Zachary — with the Wrigley Field’s famous marquee in the background — it’s not hard to wonder if Malört is beginning to jump the shark. This used to be a working-class drink, one that survived tough times over nine decades. Dive bar owners were the only ones stocking the drink, often dusting off old bottles in storage for only a handful of fans who enjoy the unusual beverage once marketed as medicine. A few blocks away, Nisei Lounge — one of the few dives that survived after the Hotel Zachary opened in 2018 and remade the area — specializes in Malört infusions. It’s the kind of dimly lit tavern where Malört is best enjoyed. It’s quite a juxtaposition to the huge windows that soak up natural light at the hotel across from the Friendly Confines.

    A private pop-up, the CNN/Politico Grill, is opened during the DNC in Chicago outside the United Center.
    CNN

    The scene is particularly confusing considering that the Cubs are owned by the Ricketts family, who aren’t exactly known as allies of the Democratic party.

    Of course, dozens have chimed in with their hot takes on Malört over the years, and Chicagoans themselves even turned to the drink to celebrate Biden’s victory over Trump outside of Trump Tower in 2020. To combat Pritzker, Republican campaign strategist Kory Wood dared to call Malört “weird,” trying to appropriate a phrase the Democrats have used to attack Republicans.

    Music writer Josh Terry writes: “Jeppson’s Malört is perilously close to becoming the next culture war football.”

    The reality is Malört isn’t carried at DNC venue the United Center, confirms Tremaine Atkinson, owner of CH Distillery. That’s the company that now owns Jeppson’s Malört. Outside the arena, CNN and Politico have teamed up on a private pop-up restaurant. It’s open from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. during the convention, set up just inside the United Center’s security perimeter, only accessible to DNC attendees. It’s called the CNN/Politico Grill. They’ve run these restaurants for 20 years outside of both Republican and Democratic national conventions, according to a rep. One popped up earlier this summer outside of Milwaukee at the RNC. They feature local vendors and food.

    The Chicago edition will feature Portillo’s Italian beef, Jay’s potato chips, and Marconi’s giardiniera. Vienna beef hot dogs, selections from Publican Quality Bread, and celebrity chef Stephanie Izard’s This Little Goat chili crunch are also available, according to a CNN rep.

    Alas, while Big Shoulders Coffee, beer from Haymarket Brewing, and boozy cider from Right Bee Cider are also available, Malört is nowhere to be found: “Damn! It would certainly liven up the conversations!” Atkinson texts.

    Coincidentally, CH — which has designs on making Malört a national brand — had already launched a marketing campaign promoting “I voted” stickers, with shirts and decals reading “I Malörted” stickers available at bars and stores.

    As Chicago has increasingly become a culinary Las Vegas — where anxious coastal elitists visit and enjoy Midwestern comfort foods without shame, without worrying about their beach bods or judgment — Malört has become part of that ritual. This is a city that embraces craft beer and breweries, cheap beer and shots at dives, and fancy drinks at cocktail lounges. What happens in Chicago stays in Chicago.

    1901 West Madison Street, , IL 60612

    Ashok Selvam

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  • A Local Nonprofit Holds a Navy Pier Festival to Help Spotlight Food Vendors

    A Local Nonprofit Holds a Navy Pier Festival to Help Spotlight Food Vendors

    Good food is just part of what makes a restaurant successful, something many would-be chefs and restaurant owners don’t always realize. Developing entrepreneurial skills is challenging, and additional folks living in underserved communities face additional obstacles folks are living in including access to capital and mentors.

    Sunshine Enterprises, a local nonprofit based in Woodlawn, has been helping restaurant owners and other entrepreneurs running small businesses for eight years through an assortment of classes, pairing them with mentors, helping them find the right neighborhoods for their restaurants, and aiding them to navigate the often confusing world of permitting. Part of Sunshine’s mission is to “bring vacant storefronts back to life” says Sunshine’s Managing Director for Programs Laura Lane Taylor. Earlier this week, Sunshine assembled food vendors at Navy Pier for Taste of Sunshine, the first-ever showcase for 16 of its alums.

    Tammie Wiliams of Baker Sister, a Beverly-based wholesale cookie company was one of those vendors.

    Williams established Baker Sister in 2014, so it’s not a new business. However, Williams says she needed Sunshine’s help in launching an eShops using Amazing and Walmart. That’s where Sunshine’s guidance was crucial: “They provide us with attorneys and a lot of different services that we need in order to keep up the momentum or to open up new doors.”

    For example, through networking, Williams was put in contact with reps at Wintrust Arena, home of the WNBA’s Chicago Sky. She’s hopeful that one day her products could be available at the McCormick Place sports stadium.

    Social media marketing has become more important than ever, but those from marginalized communities don’t have as far as a reach. Sunshine helped Williams with that, too: “The marketing piece was paramount for me,” she says. “We needed that in the worst way.”

    So Navy Pier provided Williams with a unique opportunity: “I know that Navy Pier is one of the most sought-after tourist venues in the world,” she says. “I’m looking to promote from that vantage point, both here in the city of Chicago, for those who don’t know me, even though we’re in grocery stores and all, but still, we can expand our footprint.”

    Taylor talks about the need to strengthen local chambers and for more educational programs. For example, building permits and liquor licenses can be tricky.

    “We need more academic programs like the ones that Sunshine is doing,” Taylor says. “We need it in multiple languages — we are offering it now in English and Spanish — but you need it in Polish — you need it in other languages.”

    The group matches participants with coaches for guidance. If a particular skillset or knowledge base is needed beyond the coach’s purview, Sunshine’s help desk springs into action, tapping into the group’s network of business professionals.

    Sunshine was founded in 2016, as part of Sunshine Gospel Ministries, which is affiliated with Moody Church. They’ve also helped Nestor Correa of Humita Express, a restaurant near the border of Irving Park and Avondale. Humita is one of only a handful of restaurants that serves Ecuadorian cuisine. The pandemic forced Correa to close his restaurant, and he turned to Sunshine for help. Correa says when he first opened in 2003, there were only three Ecuadorian restaurants in Chicago, but that number has since increased to 20. Many in the community ask him for advice, and it’s challenging running a restaurant and supporting other restaurant operators. Correa also has a food truck and bar.

    “We are from Ecuador, and our mission is we are trying to introduce our cuisine in the city,” Correa says.

    Humita is working to expand its menu by adding ceviche. Understanding food costs and accounting are ways Sunshine can help, but Correa is hopeful to open a larger restaurant, more like a cafe where he can serve an expanded menu, but he’s unsure of the location, and that’s where Sunshine has been helping.

    In the past, Sunshine has held Shark Tank-like competitions for its participants. There’s a thorough application process for its Community Business Academy, a 36-hour boot camp.

    “They need to show in their application that they have the wherewithal to carry out their particular vision, and they have to be able to make the time commitment to invest in their business model,” Taylor says.

    Sunshine is fortunate to have backing from the city of Chicago and private funding.

    “The small business ecosystem is there, but it needs to be strengthened, it needs to be connected in a much stronger way with the system that helps people get business with anchor institutions and certifications and sort of, you know, what the civic federations of the world are doing,” Taylor says.

    Ashok Selvam

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