At a time when some restaurants are downsizing their pastry departments or eliminating them and outsourcing their desserts, the folks at Obelix are leaning into their sweet side more than ever, creating opportunities for their pastry chefs in the process.
For Courtney Kenyon, executive pastry chef at Obelix and Le Bouchon, and Louise “Lou” Turner, Obélix head baker, along with Obélix pastry sous chef Ashleigh Lyons, the opportunity comes in the form of a new weekly to-go croissant program at the River North French restaurant.
Turner, who worked at Oriole and owned a bakery in Cincinnati’s Findlay Market, mentioned to Kenyon, a vet of numerous Michelin-starred restaurants (Oriole, North Pond, Miami’s Le Bouchon) that she wanted to offer croissants to-go as a way for her industry friends to be able to try her brunch-only pastries. A few weeks later, Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey, the brothers behind Obelix, Le Bouchon, and Taqueria Chingón, had the same idea.
“We’re just trying to get more of our pastries in more people’s hands,” says Oliver Poilevey. “I love pastries, and I love getting dessert. It’s important as it’s the last impression you get in a restaurant and shows you are really trying to make the experience special.”
The selections rotate as a new menu appears on Tock every Monday for weekend pickup. Pastries are available in three packs. A $25 traditional croissant three-pack features butter, pain au chocolat, and pistachio. A $36 specialty box consists of a rotating trio of sweet, savory, and filled croissants. This week’s specialty selection contains a black raspberry milkshake croissant, a peach cream cheese danish, and a potato gratin danish. Online ordering closes on Thursday morning with pick-up at Obelix on Saturday and Sunday.
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For Turner, who Oliver Poilevey calls “a lamination wizard,” the to-go program has other benefits, especially for her specialty croissants. “I want to highlight seasonality, the farms we source from, and cross-utilize things that might go to waste,” she says. “The specialty box is also inspired by my childhood, various experiences in my life, and my own culture.”
To-go pastries are a way Kenyon has quickly made her mark as earlier in June she took over the pastry reins from Antonio Incadella, Obelix’s opening pastry chef. Incadella has moved over to Pilsen, where he’s head of pastry at Mariscos San Pedros — a partner in the restaurant alongside Oliver Poilevey and Taqueria Chingon’s Marcos Ascencio.
Turner arrives at Obelix at 3:30 a.m. on Thursdays to prep the croissants. Friday is dedicated to lamination, the time-consuming process of folding and rolling the butter into the dough, which gives the croissants their desired uber-thin layers. Baking takes place on Saturdays and Sundays. “It will just be increasing the numbers we are already doing,” says Turner of the restaurant’s signature brunch croissants.
“My job as a pastry chef is to provide tools and assist the people on my team so they can best drive, learn, and develop,” adds Kenyon.
Plans are already in the works to grow the to-go pastry program. “Once we feel comfortable, we will offer specialty croissants that highlight ingredients like truffles or do a pastry special like canelés,” says Kenyon, adding that holiday baked goods are an option too.
“I’m most excited about expanding more into the community of Chicago and have different parts of the city see what we are doing here,” Turner says. “Brunch is very busy, and our dinner service is wonderful but allowing people to take a little piece of us home with them is special.”
Obelix, 700 N. Sedgwick Street, weekend to-go pastries start Mondays via Tock.
Lisa Shames
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