It’s no coincidence if Japanese gardens remind you of those scene-in-a-shoebox dioramas you made in grade school.
A Japanese garden is a miniature world full of abstract shapes–rocks, gravel, and cloud-pruned plants–designed to represent the larger landscape of nature. And Nature. For centuries, Zen Buddhist monks and other Japanese landscaping designers have been trying to provoke deep thoughts, with design elements such as raked gravel paths and moss checkerboards and tiny bonsai trees trained to look permanently windswept.
A Deep Question: How do you channel all those centuries of serenity to add a bit of Zen to your garden?
The Answer: Steal one or more of our favorite 10 garden ideas from Japan:
Plant a lacy Japanese maple. There are hundreds of different varieties of Acer palmatum, the maple tree native to Japan. With gracefully articulated leaves and diminutive stature (most don’t grow taller than 30 feet), Japanese maples tuck themselves easily into nearly any size garden. Varieties with multi-branched trunks have a sculptural quality and become a natural focal point in the garden.
Use rocks as a design element. In Japanese gardens, the pleasing shapes of large rocks and craggy boulders are reminders of the larger natural landscape that surrounds us. Depending on the size and shape, a rock also can serve as a functional element–as seating or a table–in the garden.
There’s a lot to love about spring. The daffodils and tulips pushing up out of the ground and opening their faces to the sun. The hostas climbing up out of the soil after their winter slumber.
And the graceful fountains of pink and white blossoms covering the weeping cherry trees.
Cities across the globe celebrate the cherry blossom blooms in the spring and enthusiasts track their flowering like football fans follow their favorite teams.
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Part of what makes their ethereal performance so impressive is the shape of the plants. The colorful petals are stunning, but it wouldn’t be same without the draping, weeping form.
To help maintain that shape, you need to know when and how to prune these iconic trees.
Our guide to growing weeping cherry trees covers how to cultivate these trees in your backyard. In this guide, we’ll talk about how to prune your trees.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
How to Prune Weeping Cherries
Grab those pruners and slap on that sunscreen. We’re going to work.
Why You Should Prune
Unlike fruiting trees, we prune ornamental cherries to keep them healthy, encourage flowering, and to maintain a pleasing shape.
It’s much easier to maintain a flowering cherry than a fruiting specimen, but that doesn’t mean you can ignore the tree entirely.
With few exceptions, weeping cherries are grafted, which means they are made up of two different trees – one being the rootstock and the other the scion.
We also prune to ensure that the tree used to create the base – the rootstock – doesn’t try to overtake the one that was used to create the crown, a process called “reversion.”
Don’t worry, this will all make sense in a minute.
When to Prune Weeping Cherries
Prune your weeping cherry in the fall, when it’s starting to enter dormancy.
That’s right after the leaves have dropped from the tree but before winter sets in. If you wait too long and winter arrives, it’s too late.
You need to start work before the wood freezes, which happens when the air temperature drops to below 32°F.
Frozen wood is brittle and can crack rather than cut cleanly, leaving ragged cuts and exposing the tree to invasion by pathogens or pests.
If you missed that window but you still want to prune the tree, you have another chance to do so in the early spring, after the weather has warmed up a little but before the branches start to bud out.
In milder areas, you can also prune in the winter, but do it on a warm day when the temperature has been above freezing for at least a few days ahead of time.
You can remove broken branches or any that are heavily infested with pests at any time of the year.
Young trees often require yearly pruning to help them maintain a good shape as they mature.
Mature trees over ten years of age might only require touch-up pruning as branches break or suckers develop.
At a minimum, you’ll need a pair of secateurs or bypass pruners and something to take out larger branches, like a saw or lopper.
You’ll also need a pole saw or a ladder if you need to reach high branches.
You don’t need to use a product to seal the cuts. Trees produce their own seal when they’re cut and research has concluded that sealing doesn’t help and can even hinder the healing process.
It can trap moisture into the cut, encouraging fungal growth and decay, and obstruct the release of sap, which is the tree’s natural healing effort.
Your tools should all be cleaned before you start working.
You can wipe them thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or scrub them in hot, soapy water. This process removes any pathogens that could sicken your tree.
A Note on Reversion
As we mentioned, weeping cherries are generally grafted specimens using two different trees: one for the base, known as the “rootstock,” and one for the top, known as the “scion.” These trees are joined together a few inches above the root flare.
Sometimes, the rootstock sends out branches and threatens to take over the grafted scion. You can easily identify these because they will appear below the graft union and they’ll be growing straight upwards rather than in a weeping form.
Reversion is bad, because it can turn your weeping tree into a standard upright one if you don’t stay on top of removing the branches. Plus, it’s downright ugly because you end up with a half upright, half weeping tree.
If you ever see these kind of branches, prune them off immediately as close to the trunk or stem as you can.
The Pruning Process
First things first, whenever suckers form, get rid of ‘em. Suckers are sprouts coming out of the tree at the base.
These divert energy from the tree and look unattractive because they clutter up the growing area.
Suckers can appear anywhere below the graft point and should be removed as close to the ground or trunk as possible.
Next, remove any dead, diseased, crossing, or heavily pest-infested branches.
Then you can start to assess the branches that should be removed to open up the crown. Any branches with a tight crotch, which means they emerge from the same spot and touch each other at their bases, should be addressed.
One of the branches should be removed. Look at both and determine which looks healthier or has a nicer shape. Remove the less desirable one.
Finally, cut back branches as needed to maintain a nice shape or reduce the size slightly.
You don’t need to worry about whether to prune out old or new wood unless there is an older branch that isn’t as floriferous as the rest.
Try to avoid removing more than a third of the branches at once and even less if you’re doing your pruning in the spring.
Early spring pruning can result in excessive regrowth, which is metabolically taxing for the tree, leaves it exposed to pathogens, and slows its recovery.
Give Your Weeping Cherry a Glow Up
I think of weeping cherries as the supermodels of the tree world. They don’t need a lot of work to make them look great.
Some basic pruning and maintenance takes them from the gal or guy next door to the cover of Vogue.
What do you love about your weeping cherry? Are you running into any trouble giving it the snip? Fill us in on everything in the comments section below.
I genuinely hope this guide was helpful for you and if you liked it, we’ve got more good stuff for you to enjoy.
Weeping cherries are iconic. Those fountain-like sprays of magnificent blossoms are unlike anything else.
They seem like something straight out of our favorite fairytales and it’s little wonder they often feature in them.
I guess it shouldn’t come as a surprise, given their otherworldly beauty, that they don’t actually occur in nature.
That’s right – weeping cherries don’t naturally grow that way. They’re produced using grafting and judicious pruning. Then, they’re shipped off to the consumer to plant and enjoy.
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Sometimes, those weeping beauties decide that they want to grow upright.
You’ve probably seen them. The ones that have a few errant stems poking out the top that just don’t seem to fit in with the rest of the tree.
We’re going to go over why that happens and what you can do to fix it. Coming up, here’s what we’ll discuss:
Don’t worry, your beloved tree will be back to weeping in no time. To start with, let’s go into a bit more detail about how these trees are made.
This is going to help us figure out how to handle the situation if we understand what it is that makes ornamental cherry trees weep in the first place.
To do that, we need to discuss apical dominance.
Apical dominance means the tip of the main, tallest shoot controls the dormancy and growth of buds that sit lower on the stem. They do this using a hormone called auxin.
Some species have strong apical dominance, meaning they are primarily composed of a single stem with little or no branching. Other plants show partial or even weak dominance. Sunflowers have strong apical dominance. Fuchsia has weak apical dominance.
Prunus species like ornamental cherries are somewhere on the partial to strong dominance end of the spectrum. That means, if we disturb the main growing stem by pruning it, it will send growth hormone to lower branches.
Growers take advantage of this to force a tree to have a stronger weeping habit than it would normally. They trim off the main growing stem to force the auxins into the lower branches and encourage weeping.
Then, there is grafting.
All modern weeping cherries except for some hybrid cultivars are grafted. There just isn’t a cherry tree in nature that naturally has the familiar weeping form.
The grower will make a horizontal graft at the top of the stem of a rootstock tree to create that waterfall-like shape that we so adore. The rootstock would produce upright growth if it was allowed to grow naturally rather than having a different type of tree grafted onto the top.
But sometimes, grafted plants of all species will revert, which means the rootstock sends out growth that overtakes the scion.
Let’s talk about this phenomenon next, because it’s the most common reason for a weeping cherry to form upright growth.
Reversion
As we mentioned, unless you are growing certain cultivars, your plant was propagated through a technique known as grafting.
And if your tree is producing upright growth in the canopy, it’s usually a problem with reversion. That means a grafted tree is trying to return to its roots.
Since these grafts are positioned higher up rather than just above the roots at the crown, as with plants like roses, reversion can happen in multiple areas.
Anywhere from the graft union down can produce upright growth consistent with what the rootstock species would have.
You can usually see the graft union inside the main mass of branches. It will look like a big, roundish, knobby growth. If you see straight stems growing anywhere below that knob, this is due to reversion.
Reverted stems are usually really obvious because the leaves will also look different from the rest of the tree, as will the blossoms. These branches might even bloom at a different time from the rest. And these growths are usually much more vigorous than the weeping parts.
If you catch them early, you can just cut off the reverted stems and go about your day. Cut them as close and as cleanly as you can to the growth point.
Then, you’re going to need to keep a sharp eye on your plant and prune it regularly, because those growths are going to keep happening. Once the rootstock gets a taste of freedom, it isn’t about to give it up.
If you neglect your duties and too many reverted stems start to grow, you will lose the shape of the tree, and it will essentially become an upright cherry. You’ll have to buy a new weeper if you want to start over.
Maybe these growths are taking a different form? When reversion happens at the ground level, we call it suckering. We’ll talk about that next.
Suckers
Suckers go hand in hand with grafting. These are just reversions that come directly off the roots rather than the branches.
A tree that is heavily suckering is often one that has been seriously damaged. Plants send out suckers as a way of starting new ones when the main one is weakened.
Storm damage, overzealous pruning, pests, drought, disease, and any other form of stress can cause suckers to form.
That means even after you remove the suckers – which you should do – it will likely continue to form new ones.
If it’s constantly forming a lot of new suckers, you might consider giving up on the tree. I know it hurts, but at a certain point, you’re fighting a losing battle.
That leads us to the least common form of upright growth, one which is also related to stress: water sprouts.
Water Sprouts
Water sprouts form in the canopy. Instead of emerging at the root level, these form from the buds of the plant when a plant is stressed, which can be caused by severe pruning, drought, storm damage, or breakage.
Water sprouts can be difficult to distinguish from reversion, but they should be treated in the same way: with the ol’ chop.
Water sprouts often form above the graft, though not always. If it happens above the graft union, it’s definitely water sprouts and not reversion that you’re dealing with.
This is typically the problem if you’re growing a specimen that isn’t grafted.
Sometimes All We Want Is a Good Weep
Normally, unless you’re watching the Hallmark Channel, I’d say habitual weeping is a bad thing. But in this case, it’s the best!
And none of us want to see our ornamental cherries go from a fountain of flowers to a barren bundle of sticks.
Which problem are you facing with your cherry? Do you have one that’s trying to revert back to the rootstock? Or maybe yours is sending up stress suckers? Share your experience in the comments section below.
Looking for a pendulous twist on an old favorite? Then a weeping cherry tree may be just what you need.
Much of the time, drooping plant shoots mean that something’s wrong. But for weeping cherry trees, such droopage is normal. Actually, it’s better than normal – it’s flat-out gorgeous.
There’s something very captivating about a cherry tree’s “weepiness.”
Perhaps it symbolizes finding beauty in crestfallen sadness, or maybe it’s a reminder to stand tall, even when the world is bringing you down – its aesthetic can inspire many different takeaways.
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It also looks natural, yet unnatural at the same time, in a way that’s delightfully uncanny.
Much like a photorealistic tattoo, a celebrity wax statue, or the animation style of “The Polar Express,” a drooping yet healthy growing habit looks like it shouldn’t even be, yet it is.
Metaphors and comparisons aside, these trees look quite cool. But for maximum coolness, they must be grown correctly. And to do that, you’ll need the right know-how.
That’s what this guide is for. All the cultivation knowledge you need, right at your fingertips.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
What Are Weeping Cherry Trees?
A weeping cherry tree is any variety of flowering cherry tree with soft, limp twigs, pendulous branches, and an overall cascading appearance.
Native to Japan, China, and Korea, these plants flaunt a lovely east Asian aesthetic. I’d describe the vibe as “samurai movie backdrop,” which, coming from a nerd, is the highest of praise.
For the most part, they’re hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8, although some varieties can grow a bit outside this range.
The true weeping form doesn’t occur much in nature, as most trees described as “weeping” are cultivated varieties that are selected for their weeping forms, which originally occurred as a result of genetic mutations.
To create these plants, plantsmen typically graft weeping cherry tree scions to four- to five-foot tall rootstocks of upright cherry trees.
Belonging to the Rosaceae family, the scions of weeping cherry trees come from many different Prunus species and hybrids: P.serrulata, Prunus x subhirtella, and Prunus x yedoensis are a few notable ones.
These plants can grow six to 30 feet tall and five to 25 feet wide, as they are available in both dwarf and full-sized varieties.
Flaunting oval-shaped green leaves with tapered points and serrated edges, these trees burst with single or double, white to pink flowers in spring, which attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
After pollination, the tree produces black to red drupes, which are much smaller and less tasty than those of cherry trees that are actually grown for their fruits. But they’re still quite tasty to birds and herbivorous woodland critters!
Weeping Cherry Propagation
As I mentioned, weeping cherry trees are cultivated via grafting. However, these techniques can be difficult for a novice to pull off correctly, and are a bit beyond the scope of this guide.
To get started with your own weeping cherry tree, I’d suggest purchasing a sapling from a reputable nursery for transplant into your garden.
The best time to transplant is in early spring after the final frost, so plan your acquisition accordingly.
Ensure that your intended planting sites have full sun exposure. Make sure each site is spaced far enough away from other plants and structures – you want your trees to reach their full size without their branches or roots bumping into anything.
If you have bare root trees, soak their roots three to six hours before planting time. If your sapling is growing in a container, you can skip this step.
Make sure the garden soil at the planting sites is moisture-retaining yet well-draining, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5.
Dig your planting holes twice as deep and twice wide as your transplant’s root system or the container it’s currently growing in.
Take your dug-out soil, mix it with equal parts compost, and then backfill the hole halfway.
If your sapling is in a container, gently remove it and set it in the hole, making sure it’s sitting at the same depth as it was in the original container.
For bare root transplants, create a mound of soil at the bottom of the hole, then gently spread the roots out over it, ensuring that the root collar is slightly above the soil line. Make sure the graft union is well above the soil line.
Alternate backfilling and watering to help it all settle, and when you’re done, water in your transplants to make the soil nice and moist. Congrats, you’re done!
How to Grow Weeping Cherries
With your weeping cherries in-ground, let’s learn how to keep ’em around.
Climate and Exposure Needs
For year-round survival, these plants will need to be in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8, for the most part – certain varieties are suitable for slightly hotter or colder climates.
They are tolerant of heat, snow, and frost, so they’ll do just fine on the edge of their hardiness ranges.
A full sun location is best, so make sure to expose your weeping cherries to as much sunlight as possible.
Soil Needs
The perfect garden soil for a weeping cherry should be moisture-retaining, well-draining, and fertile, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. A loamy soil texture with ample humus is perfect.
To keep the humus content up to snuff, top dress with a couple inches of compost or well-rotted manure and work it into the soil under the drip line every spring.
Water and Fertilizer Needs
Along with sunlight, consistent moisture is needed to power those beautiful blooms. To provide it, water deeply whenever the top three inches of soil dry out.
Moderate moisture is absolutely essential – these trees can’t stand drought, nor wet feet.
To encourage prolific blooming, you can apply a balanced fertilizer or one formulated for trees and shrubs once in spring.
Water whenever the top three inches of soil dry out.
Pruning and Maintenance
Other than any necessary pruning to maintain the weeping shape, these plants typically don’t need regular trimming.
But if you do need to give your plant a haircut, wait until just before bud break in spring, and don’t remove more than a third of the plant’s branches in the process.
Dead, damaged, and/or diseased branches can be removed whenever you notice them.
To help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and to protect the roots, it’s helpful to maintain a layer of mulch around the dripline – just make sure that the mulch is kept a couple of inches away from the trunk.
Supplemental watering should be ceased whenever temperatures dip below 40°F and/or there’s snow on the ground.
Depending on how manicured you want your garden to be, you might need to rake up the leaves after they’ve dropped in fall.
Weeping Cherry Cultivars to Select
There are numerous weeping cherry cultivars available and you should have no problem finding one that meets your aesthetic needs.
Here are five of my favorites:
Kiku-Shidare-Zakura
Prunus ‘Kiku-Shidare-Zakura’ – a Japanese flowering cherry cultivar – puts on a showstopping display, as each of its richly pink double flowers has up to 125 petals!
With a mature height and spread of 10 to 15 feet, ‘Kiku-Shidare-Zakura’ is a wonderful specimen planting for spots needing a relatively compact tree. It’s hardy in Zones 4 to 9.
Plena Rosea
Digging double blooms? P.subhirtella ‘Plena Rosea’ aka ‘Pendula Plena Rosea’ is another double-bloomer, with each pale pink double flower flaunting 10 to 20 twisted flower petals with a prominent red center.
Additionally, these beautiful flowers persist longer into the summer than other weeping cherries!
Hardy in Zones 5 to 8, the plant reaches a mature height and spread of 15 to 25 feet.
A bit larger than ‘Kiku-Shidare-Zakura,’ ‘Plena Rosea’ is ideal for filling out bigger planting sites.
Hardy in Zones 5 to 8, Prunus x yedoensis ‘Shidare-Yoshino’ is a weeping cultivar of the famed Yoshino cherry.
Bursting with single white flowers, ‘Shidare-Yoshino’ reaches heights of 20 to 25 feet and spreads of 20 to 30 feet.
For a brilliant white mass of drooping blooms, you can’t go wrong with ‘Shidare-Yoshino.’
Weeping Extraordinaire
As if regular weeping cherry flowers weren’t extraordinary enough, Weeping Extraordinaire™ features delightful double pink blooms that are super-duper fluffy, with numerous narrow petals to give each flower a “stuffed-to-the-brim” aesthetic.
Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8 and with a mature height and width of 15 to 20 feet, Prunus x ‘Extrazam’ is tolerant of urban pollution, making it a perfect planting for the street or a public park.
The name pretty much covers it. With a cascading, elegant habit that bursts with stark white flowers, White Snow Fountains® really lives up to its name.
Reaching a mature height of eight to 15 feet and a spread of eight to 10 feet, Prunus x ‘Snofozam’ is a bit taller than it is wide, making it a solid accent tree for tighter spots in the landscape.
Nothing gives a weeping cherry tree something to cry about quite like pests and disease. Let’s discuss how to deal with them!
Herbivores
Unfortunately, these trees can be quite susceptible to…
Voles
Sometimes known as “field mice,” voles look like the stocky, short-tailed love-children of mice and hamsters.
With their impressive speed, jumping ability, digging skills, and reproductive rates, large populations can quickly burrow around and through plant roots, as well as chew up the bark at the base of trees.
Placing vole or mouse traps around popular burrow paths and nesting sites can catch or kill these pests, depending on the traps you use.
Either way, peanut butter makes a great bait, especially if you bait the traps for vole activity in the afternoon to early evening when they are active.
Protect your tree trunks with loose tree guards made of mesh or hardware cloth. Bury the guards a bit below the soil to keep voles from squeezing inside. Fox or coyote urine works as a repellent, but those need reapplying after rain.
Insects
Since insects can vector pathogens, it’s doubly important to manage them. Especially these ones:
Borers
“Borers” refers to the immature larval stages of a variety of different moths and beetles.
After emerging from eggs laid in plants in spring to summer, borers will tunnel through living wood as they feed, which damages xylem and phloem tissues.
This feeding weakens the plant, causing girdling, dieback, and eventual death. The feeding tunnels are also prime entry points for pathogens to wreak their own havoc.
Since adult insects tend to lay their eggs in damaged, sickly, or otherwise stressed plants, proper cultivation is essential for prevention. By caring for your trees properly and not wounding them, you’re telling bugs “this ain’t a good spot!”
If borers do become a problem, you may need to apply pyrethroids or other insecticides via bark sprays. More systemic insecticides can be applied via injections or soil drenches, preferably by a professional.
Japanese Beetles
Popillia japonica is a Japanese-native species of beetle that packs quite an appetite.
With shiny, metallic green bodies and coppery wing covers, adult Japanese beetles take conspicuous bites out of leaves and flowers, which can skeletonize leaves and hinder photosynthesis.
If these insects strike, I’d prescribe “soapy death.”
During a cool morning or evening, take a bucket of soapy water to an infested plant and flick the bugs in the water.
The soap will keep them under as they drown. A bit too grisly? Try spraying your plants with neem oil instead.
Along with proper cultivation, sanitizing your garden tools is an easy way to prevent disease spread.
Black Knot
Caused by the fungus Apiosporina morbosa, black knot is a common and annoying disease that affects Prunus species.
The trademark symptom is the formation of hard, tumor-like galls on branches and trunks, which appear black and swollen.
Overwintering in galls from the previous year, the fungus releases spores during wet spring conditions, which spread via wind to infect the fresh shoots or wounds of other plants.
Once inside a branch or trunk, the fungus triggers the growth of masses of large plant cells, leading to the swollen galls.
One year later, the gall is covered with a velvety, olive green fungal growth. Two years later, the gall is black, hard, and capable of releasing its own spores.
Black knot disease is tolerable, but it can distort an infected branch’s shape, kill its leaves, and crack trunk bark.
If the disease shows up on your plants, prune out the galls with sterilized tools in late winter, making your stem cuts four inches below the gall.
Burn, bury, or pitch your prunings, and don’t be afraid to remove and dispose of severely-infected plants entirely.
Cherry Shot Hole Disease
Technically, cherry shot hole disease is a symptom, rather than a true disease.
Often an eventual result of bacterial leaf spot and/or cherry leaf spot, this affliction leaves small, punched-out holes in the foliage of cherry and cherry laurel species.
The causal diseases spread rapidly in warm, humid spring weather. In Prunus plants, afflicted leaves will eventually turn chlorotic and drop.
Space trees properly to promote good air flow to avoid a buildup of humidity, and rake up fallen leaves to prevent overwintering pathogens.
Fungicides can be used preventatively on valuable specimens, while trees heavily affected by cherry shot hole disease need to be removed entirely.
Verticillium Wilt
Verticillium wilt is a rather serious disease of Prunus that causes sudden wilting, chlorosis, necrosis, and/or brown, streaked sapwood.
After lying dormant in the soil as microsclerotia, the causal fungi Verticillium dahliae and/or Verticillium albo-atrum enters the plant through wounded roots or natural openings. It enters and clogs up the xylem, interrupting its water flow.
Plants may survive this disease without your help, but pruning dead branches, using sterilized tools, and proper cultivation all make it easier.
Since the pathogens persist in the soil indefinitely, severely infected trees should be removed and replaced with resistant plants such as arborvitae, ginkgo, or oak.
Best Uses for Weeping Cherry Trees
A weeping cherry tree is a truly delightful specimen, especially in spring when it’s in full bloom. You can plant in the vicinity of more upright trees for contrast.
It’s also a fantastic shade tree! You may have to be a bit lower to the ground to fit comfortably under its drooping branches, perhaps lying prone or on your back… I can’t think of a better spot to take an outdoor nap, though.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Deciduous flowering tree
Flower/Foliage Color:
Pink to white/green
Native to:
China, Japan, Korea
Maintenance:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
5-8
Water Needs:
Moderate to high
Bloom Time:
Spring
Tolerance:
Deer, drought (moderate), heat, poor and suboptimal soils, frost
Exposure:
Full sun
Soil Type:
Loose, fertile loam
Time to Maturity:
5 years
Soil pH:
6.0-7.5
Spacing:
Width of mature spread
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Same depth as nursery container
Attracts:
Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
Height:
6-30 feet
Uses:
Shade tree, specimen planting
Spread:
5-25 feet
Family:
Rosaceae
Growth Rate:
Fast
Genus:
Prunus
Common Pests and Diseases:
Borers, Japanese beetles, voles; black knot, cherry shot hole disease, verticillium wilt
Species:
Serrulata, x subhirtella, x yedoensis
It’s No Ordinary Cherry…
Droopy-ness doesn’t look fantastic in people or animals, but plants like the weeping cherry really own the look. Wouldn’t you agree?
Congrats on learning the ways of these plants! May they add a delightful cascading aesthetic to your landscape for the rest of your gardening days.
Still have questions, remarks, tips of your own to share? Let us know in the comments section below!
