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  • Want to Know WHEN to Prune? This Will Answer All of Your Questions! – Garden Therapy

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    Learning when to prune can be confusing when there are different rules for many different plants, and even differing rules that vary by cultivar! This guide takes away all of that confusion by looking at the basics of how plants grow and using that as your foundation. With just a bit of logic, you can take these basics and apply them to most of the jobs in the home garden.

    Today, we’re covering the question, “When Should I Prune (…)?” If you would like to know HOW to prune, please click over to Learn How to Prune like a Pro! Pruning 101.

    There is a “best” time to prune various plants, and it’s not always the same. If you are trying to decide when to prune a particular plant in your yard, I suggest you look up your plant’s particular pruning guidelines in a garden book or online.

    If you are looking for a guide that you can use throughout the year to help you know what and when to prune with your specific garden in mind, then you will look at your grouping of garden plants as workers and decide where they are putting their energy. Let me explain!

    A Plant’s Yearly Lifecycle

    Plants, big or small, live their lives working towards the same goal: to grow to mature height, set fruit, then set seeds and continue the species. That’s their job.

    Think about plants doing their job in terms of energy.

    In spring, the plant’s energy is in the soil, moving its way up through the trunk and branches and forcing life in new growth. In summer, the energy exists in the trunk, branches, leaves, and flowers as it works to produce fruit. In the fall, the energy gives the tree a final push to set seeds, then drop leaves and head back down to the roots. In winter, the energy is stored in the roots, while what is above ground faces winter cold.

    Preparing a Garden for WinterPreparing a Garden for Winter
    The same Japanese Maple as above, but in the winter!

    A Deciduous Example

    Let’s use an unnamed deciduous tree as an example. This particular tree is dormant in the winter. In spring, it buds and leafs out. It sets flowers and fruit in summer and ripens to seed. The seeds are planted elsewhere by squirrels caching food for the winter. And in the fall, the plant drops its leaves to prepare for energy-saving winter dormancy again.

    Now, think of what response this plant will have to pruning based on where it is putting its energy.

    • In winter dormancy, the plant’s energy is stored below the surface in the roots. Pruning branches at this time will result in less space above the ground for all the energy stored in the roots, therefore, it will encourage vigorous new spring growth.
    • In the spring, when the flower buds and leaves are forming, pruning could cut off new buds and reduce or eliminate flowering for that year.
    • In the summer, after flowering and before fruiting, pruning off some of the flowering branches will direct the plant’s energy into the remaining fruit, making them more robust.
    • In the fall, when the fruit has turned to seed and the tree is losing its leaves, pruning reduces the amount of energy held in the branches, sending less down to the roots for winter dormancy.

    Now, of course, not all plants flower, fruit, set seeds, or go dormant at the same time of year. Some flower in the fall and fruit in the winter, others flower in winter and go dormant in the summer. And some plants skip various stages or go semi-dormant, like certain evergreens. Regardless, you can still think of where the energy is when pruning as a guide for when to prune.

    Cornus kousa 'Miss Satomi'Cornus kousa 'Miss Satomi'
    Cornus kousa ‘Miss Satomi’

    When To Prune: How Pruning Affects Plants at Different Stages

    • Pruning during dormancy results in enthusiastic growth after dormancy. This can be good for plants requiring invigoration, but bad for trees that will send up a bunch of unsightly water sprouts with all that extra energy coming from the roots in spring.
    • Pruning before buds form can increase the vigour of deciduous suckering shrubs and roses.
    • Pruning after buds form can eliminate flowering, which is good for invasive plants but bad for ornamentals.
    • Pruning after flowering is a good way to manage the overall shape and size of ornamental plants. It can also encourage bigger, sweeter fruit, which is great for fruit trees.
    • Pruning after fruiting is good for setting the stage for the next year. The plant’s energy is now in its mature stage above ground, and cutting off the branches at this stage will not encourage more growth to be sent to replace them.
    • Pruning after the fruit sets seed can be stressful for the plant because it has worked tirelessly to do its job and is now it is at its lowest point of energy. It can also encourage disease, as the plant will be slow to heal.
    • Pruning coniferous evergreens can be done at any time of the year, but the best time to prune them is in the cooler weather when the sap is less likely to cause a mess in the garden. Sap flows steadily in the spring as the weather warms up.
    • Pruning in the summer or during dry spells can be beneficial if your plants are prone to disease. Warm, dry summer weather is less likely to spread diseases than wet weather.
    • Pruning deciduous plants in winter is convenient, as you can more easily see the structure.

    Thinking about when to prune in this way has greatly helped me in my quest to garden in a way that supports proper plant growth. It helps me to work with the plants and not against them, ensuring that they are healthy and well-loved, and most importantly, requiring less maintenance.

    If you have any tips, ideas, questions, or notes to share, please add them to the comments section. We can never have too much pruning help from wise gardeners!

    Pruning FAQ

    Is there a best time of day to prune?

    It would be similar thinking to the time of year. When will it cause the least stress to the plant? First thing in the morning, before the heat of the day, would be my choice. But I also choose based on the most efficient time for me to do it correctly.

    Is there a wrong time to prune?

    You never want to prune when the plant is under stress, unless you’re removing diseased, pest-ridden, dead, or damaged branches (as pruning can be how you SAVE your plant in this instance).

    Make sure the plant is hydrated and the weather conditions are good. For instance, you might not want to prune if there’s going to be extreme cold, or on the opposite end, a large heat wave.

    You also want to avoid pruning before the tree blooms, as you’ll remove the chance for new buds, flowers, and fruits.

    More Helpful Tips on Pruning

     

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • How to Remove Suckers from Trees (and Why They are There in the First Place) – Garden Therapy

    How to Remove Suckers from Trees (and Why They are There in the First Place) – Garden Therapy

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    If your tree is slowly turning into a shrub by sending up tree suckers—a host of thin, upright branches from the base of the trunk or soil near the base of the tree—then here are some tips on why it might be happening and how to remove suckers from trees.

    When it comes to my style of gardening, I tend to let Mother Nature take over and interfere as little as possible. But that doesn’t mean I don’t step in every now and then!

    Suckers can make an area look unsightly and also take up resources and light from smaller perennials or annuals that grow beneath larger shrubs and trees.

    But suckers can also be an indicator of a larger problem, and your tree is trying to tell you something. If you have suckers, don’t let them take over. Here’s how to trim them….and why you should!

    This post will cover…

    looking up at a tree with a beautiful crown and formlooking up at a tree with a beautiful crown and form
    Trimming suckers can also help you create beautiful tree forms down the line.

    What Are Tree Suckers?

    Trees are very good at what they do. Growing, that is. You often see suckers at the base of trees, tiny shoots that look like mini trees emerging. When overgrown, they create a shrub-like appearance. You may also see them emerge from the stump of a tree that has been cut down and continues to live.

    Trees send up suckers as a reaction to stress. Your smart tree is putting up an effort to survive in a less-than-perfect environment. Those suckers are a way of multiplying, ensuring the lineage of the tree lives on. If the tree can’t survive, the suckers will grow in its place.

    Why Do Tree Suckers Grow?

    Suckers are often seen on urban trees that are planted in the “hell strip,” the strip of grass or garden between the street and the sidewalk. This strip is often a very stressful place for a tree to grow, with poor soil that is flanked by concrete. The soil gets compacted from the pressure on the paved surfaces, and the concrete generates a lot of additional heat.

    Trees that have been growing in the hell strip will not thrive and produce as well as their counterparts in healthy soil with ample room for roots. These trees will often have more diseases and pests, and they send up suckers as a response to the stress they are under.

    Drought is another reason why a tree might send up suckers. Upright branches from the base or upper branches as a result of drought conditions are called water sprouts. Water sprouts are the tree’s reaction to being thirsty.

    A tree can also send up water sprouts and suckers as a result of improper pruning. A description of this is covered in this article on pruning.

    Dead Shrub Needing ReplacementDead Shrub Needing Replacement
    When left to grow on their own, suckers can give trees a shrub-like appearance.

    How to Stop Tree Suckers

    As much of a nuisance as they are, the issue is primarily aesthetic. The tree is calling out for help, and if you listen perhaps you can help by improving conditions for the tree. Test your soil to find any glaring issues in it that could be causing distress.

    Most trees don’t need to be watered, but you may want to consider soaking your trees if they are young or your area is experiencing excessive heat. Poor pruning or a lack of pruning may be your other option for preventing more tree suckers from occurring.

    If you can’t find a solution,  you can simply choose to remove the suckers and keep up on the job as they appear. In some cases, like with older trees, this is not a bad solution.

    You could provide more water, better soil, and prune more carefully, but as the tree ages, it will be more prone to suckers, and this may just be how you have to manage it for the foreseeable future.

    Young trees, however, need more attention to the cause, as they shouldn’t be so stressed out at such a young age.

    How to Remove Suckers From Trees

    I have a couple of trees that I regularly will need to remove suckers from. My Corkscrew Hazel, Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’, has gorgeous contorted and twisted branches that look best when the leaves have fallen. It’s prone to suckers that hide the true beauty of the trunk of the tree, so they get chopped off regularly.

    corkscrew-hazelnutcorkscrew-hazelnut
    My Corkscrew Hazel, Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’

    I like to use a hatchet or billhook saw to remove the suckers at the base.

    Ideally, you want to get as close to the base as possible without cutting into the trunk. The nodes that send up more growth are located near where the suckers originate, so you need to remove those nodes in order to prevent regrowth. Otherwise, you will find yourself chopping down the same suckers over and over again.

    Removing suckers from trees.Removing suckers from trees.
    Remove suckers as far down as you can.

    Remove Suckers at the Base of a Trunk

    To remove suckers at the base of a trunk, use a hatchet to hook around the suckers and pull them off. The blade will prune those that do not pull off more easily. Use pruners or the saw of the billhook saw to clean up any stubs that are leftover.

    sawing tree suckers with a billhook sawsawing tree suckers with a billhook saw
    A blade will make this job much easier than trying to prune each individual sucker.

    Remove Suckers Under Soil

    To remove suckers under the soil, first try to pull them up. If they can easily be pulled off the roots, then you are likely to get the growth nodes as well. If not, use the tip of the hatchet to loosen the soil around the suckers. Then, use the hook under the soil to cut the stem.

    The hatchet can also be used to quickly remove water sprouts that grow in the spring and summer. Use the hook blade to swiftly remove the water sprouts at the branch. Then use the hatchet to quickly chop the pieces for the compost or yard waste bin.

    prune my espalier apple tree in the fall each year after letting it grow quite steadily throughout the summer. I use bypass pruners to remove the thinner branches, the billhook saw for the larger branches, and then quickly chop them up to fit in the green waste bin using the hatchet.

    Here is my espalier apple before:

    espalier before pruningespalier before pruning
    fiskars billhook sawfiskars billhook saw
    Suckers can also be considered smaller branches that are no longer needed.
    fiskars hatchetfiskars hatchet
    Chop it up to speed up composting.
    how to remove tree suckers how to remove tree suckers

    You can see it’s such a beauty once it’s all cleaned up and tidy for the fall. Here is the after:

    espalier after removing suckersespalier after removing suckers

    These tools can also be used for cutting back unruly and overgrown brush, removing tree roots from the soil, and dividing perennials.

    FAQ About Tree Suckers

    Is there anything you can put on so the suckers don’t come back?

    You can use herbicide to kill suckers and prevent them from regrowing, but I avoid the use of herbicide in my garden completely. It can affect the tree itself and surrounding plants, as well as interfere with the local ecosystem.

    Instead, I try to prevent them by caring for the tree accordingly and get a good understanding of the growth cycle. And if they still shoot up, then I just prune them accordingly.

    Can I prune a tree back to its sucker and maintain it to become a tree?

    If your original tree isn’t doing well or has bad form, you can try to cut back all but the sucker. A sucker or a water spout is simply one of the tree’s fast growing branches, so it will have the same root system.

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    Stephanie Rose

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