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Tag: Plants & Seeds

  • A Love Letter to Sanguisorbas – Gardenista

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    I came to gardening, as many of us do, not necessarily out of a love of the natural world but because of a fascination with flowers. In the beginning, I was attracted to those big, vulgar things so often used as a punctuation mark within a planting scheme: the bright yellow colon of hollyhock or full-stop exclamation point brought by a sunflower’s radial symmetry.

    When transitioning to garden design in my late twenties, I would occasionally send photos of floriferous encounters to my grandmother—enormous tree peony blooms at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, or creamy magnolias from my morning walk to work on the High Line. She was withering on her deathbed from Alzheimer’s, even though in my mind’s eye she will forever be crouched on her knees in the southern sun, toiling in a bed of dark pine mulch, her once-round cheeks surrounded by the acidic zing of wax begonias. The texts were sporadic because I didn’t know how to talk about dying. It occurs to me now that in sending them I was probably, on some subconscious level, hoping to fill her back up. 

    When I was studying horticulture at BBG, I had a teacher who talked about the first time he actually saw a landscape: not in the literal sense, but as a composition that was made by the sum of its parts. He spoke of how he was able to tease out the nascent forbs from the grasses, to read the silvery underside of certain pioneering shrubs and understand how they were linked to the calciferous earth below. This, I think, is what separates everyday passion from some degree of expertise: an ability to identify and confidently theorize about the minutiae working together to create a larger whole. Strangely, I can’t remember much else about the course, or even what it was.

    Clouds of Thalictrum rochebrunianum and Sanguisorba tenuifolia ‘Pink Elephant’ in late summer. Photograph by Nick Spain.
    Above: Clouds of Thalictrum rochebrunianum and Sanguisorba tenuifolia ‘Pink Elephant’ in late summer. Photograph by Nick Spain.

    With practice, that ability to zoom in on the details slowly came to me as well. I first spotted the fine, merlot-colored dots of Sanguisorba officinalis peeking out at the very back of some naturalistic garden, hidden between drifts of grass and backdropped by a shock of yellow—maybe Amsonia? I’ve long lost the image, but it’s bookmarked still in my mind, a dog-eared mental page of something I wanted to add to my own garden if and when conditions would allow. 

    Fortunately, those conditions manifested in a northwest-facing bed in my Massachusetts garden, a small strip of earth that stretches along one side of my driveway. Its aspect and location are challenging—constantly drowned beneath the dripline, baked by gravel, and receiving anywhere from two to eight hours of harsh afternoon sun depending on the time of year. During the time that had passed between that initial sighting of Sanguisorba officinalis and the creation of this bed, my rolodex of the species had grown. Sanguisorba tenuifolia, S. armena, S. obtusa, and their myriad cultivars drifted in my mind, and although not all could or would ultimately make the list, I decided to give many of my favorites a shot. 

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  • Gardening 101: Oro Blanco Grapefruit Tree – Gardenista

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    The first thing to know is that Oro Blanco is not your grandma’s super tart grapefruit, the kind that puckers your lips and makes you squint like you’re staring at the sun. Oro Blanco is light years from this.

    A cross between an acid-less pomelo and a white grapefruit, Oro Blanco (or Oro) is a large citrus with a unique flavor. It’s surprisingly sweet, like a cross between honey and a pear. The real bonus is that it lacks the bitterness that most people shy away from. Other reasons to try the fruit: Oro’s thick but soft, spongy pale yellow rind makes it easy to peel, quite like an orange with segments that separate easily too. Oh, and Oro is seedless and quite juicy, making it a lovely addition to dressings, marinades, and cocktails such as a Paloma. The peel can even be candied, if you fancy that sort of thing. You can, of course, slice this grapefruit in half, old school, and sprinkle brown sugar on top and slide it into the broiler like grandma did with those traditional bitter types, but this grapefruit holds its own and doesn’t really need a sugar topping.

    Above: A 15-gallon potted Oro Blanco tree is $159 at Paradise Nursery.

    Oro Blanco (Spanish for ‘white gold’) was developed at the Citrus Experiment Station at the University of California, Riverside in 1958 by geneticists James E. Cameron and Robert Soost. The hybrid (created using traditional cross-pollination techniques) took over nine years to develop, and was patented and released to commercial markets  in 1980. Interestingly, this grapefruit faced its fair of challenges due to customers mistaking its green skin for being unripe. In Israel, the fruit was rebranded as Sweetie, which helped sales and spread the sweeter word.

    Above: A 5-pound box of Oro Blanco Grapefruits is $14.39 from Melissa’s Produce.

    Tip: Look for yellow-green to bright yellow skin but, like mentioned, color isn’t a true indicator; fully ripe ones may still sport green splotches. You can find these citrus treats at farmers markets and specialty stores in the fall season through early spring. Or easier, grow your own outdoors in USDA Zones 9-11. Outside of these zones, consider protecting your citrus from heavy frost by bringing your plant inside or moving it to a warm greenhouse.

    Cheat Sheet:

    Above: Photograph via NatureHills.com.
    • Intensely fragrant flowers delight people and bees.
    • A great source of Vitamin C and useful in various food and drink recipes.
    • Perfect for adding to an orchard, edible garden, or sunny balcony.
    • Deep green evergreen leaves make it also a wonderful ornamental tree.

    Keep It Alive:

    Above: Photograph via The Wishing Tree Company.
    • Grow in a spot that receives at least six hours of direct sun, either planted in a large container or in the ground.
    • Use well-draining, sandy loamy soil for planting. Soggy clay is ill-advised as this can lead to rot. You can even look for soil mixes specially formulated for citrus.
    • Plant your grapefruit on a slight mound and avoid burying the graft.
    • Water deeply and then let the soil dry slightly between drinks.
    • In the spring, feed your tree with some organic citrus fertilizer per the label’s instructions.
    • Keep your plant well-mulched but do not let the mulch cover the stem.
    • Prune to shape and remove any dead stems if they occur.

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  • 10 Things Nobody Tells You About Narcissus – Gardenista

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    Nobody ever says “I should have planted fewer narcissus bulbs” when the flowers start blooming in springtime. With their cheery bobbing heads, these happy harbingers of spring lift your spirits when nothing else in the garden has yet dared to declare victory over winter.

    Narcissus—or do you say daffodil?—is one of the most familiar flowers in any garden or supermarket. I defy you to find one person who can’t identify a yellow narcissus (or even a white one). And yet there’s so much more to know. We could spend a week on jonquils alone! Let’s get started, with 10 things nobody tells you about Narcissus:

    1. Narcissus and daffodil are the same flower (despite what snobs say).

    Narcissus at Madresfield Court. Photograph by Kendra Wilson, from Garden Visit: Daffodil Days at Madresfield Court.
    Above: Narcissus at Madresfield Court. Photograph by Kendra Wilson, from Garden Visit: Daffodil Days at Madresfield Court.

    Daffodil is the common name of Narcissus (a Latin word), and therein lies the daffodil’s image problem. It sounds more highfalutin to invoke Latin. When snobs say they don’t like daffodils, what they may be trying to say is they don’t care for the looks of the big, yellow, common varieties of Narcissus sold in supermarkets. That unloved trumpet flower, by the way, is Narcissus pseudonarcissus.

    Read more on this topic in Order the World’s Best Narcissi Online: But Please, Don’t Call Them Daffodils.

    2. There are 40 different species of Narcissus—and thousands of varieties.

    Above: “The multi-headed Narcissus tazetta, a genus and species which includes the celebrated ‘Paperwhite’ cultivar, are stimulated into growth by heat and smoke. The Narcissus tazetta bulb is Mediterranean and the bulbs expect intense heat as well as bush fires,” writes Kendra. Good luck growing this flower outdoors. Photograph by Howard Sooley.

    Jonquils are also narcissi, in case you were wondering. Varieties of the species is Narcissus jonquilla are known for their small, delicate flowers and intense fragrance.

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  • The Garden Decoder: What Are ‘Seed Banks’? (And Why Are They Important?) – Gardenista

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    Native Plant Trust

    Above: Inside Native Plant Trust’s rare plant seed cooler, one of several repositories that make up the rare plant seed bank. Photograph by Alexis Doshas © Native Plant Trust.

    With two facilities in Massachusetts—Garden in the Woods and Nasami Farm—Native Plant Trust focuses on species endemic to the Northeast, with priority given to rare species. The bank currently stores more than 10 million seeds. “Our native plants often have complex dormancy mechanisms. We may not know how to germinate all of them, so the first step is to collect seeds,” says Johnson. “The second step is to figure out how to germinate them. Lastly, and perhaps the most important, is to make sure these populations are secure in the wild so we don’t need the seed banks down the road.” Last year, Native Plant Trust worked with a sundial lupine (Lupinus perennis) population in Vermont. This native lupine is a host plant for the endangered Karner blue butterfly. After noticing that the population in this area in Vermont was in decline, they were able to repopulate it from seed stored at Native Plant Trust decades earlier. They’ll return next year to see what the success rate is. “The genetics should just knit back together as if it was just a banner year for the plants to be producing babies,” says Johnson. 

    What can gardeners do? 

    Above: Jesup’s milk-vetch (Astragalusrobbinsiivar. jesupii), a globally rare species, grows in only three places in the world: all along a 16-mile stretch of the Connecticut River in Vermont and New Hampshire. Here, this seedling, grown in Native Plant Trust’s native plant nursery at Nasami Farm in western Massachusetts, was transplanted on site. Photograph by Lea Johnson © Native Plant Trust.

    Grow native plants. “Habitat loss and habitat fragmentation is the number one threat to native plants,” says Johnson. “When you grow native plants in your yard, you’re providing habitat and that habitat can become suitable for rare plants.” Furthermore, “native landscapes sequester more carbon and benefit insects, birds, and other wildlife,” says Havens. “Plus, they avoid contributing to the problem of invasive species, which is one of the largest threats to native plant ecosystems in our region.” And please be sure to avoid all pesticides, even organic ones, which the kill bees, butterflies, and other insects that most native plants depend upon to survive. 

    Enjoy nature responsibly and use iNaturalist. Botanists benefit from community science apps like iNaturalist. Birker notes that she and her colleagues might notice someone posting photos on the app of plants they are targeting for seed collection in bloom. They’ll know that they’ll have to get out there soon to collect. That said, while you’re out in nature, it’s crucial to stay on paths to avoid trampling on plants to snap a photo and never, ever collect from the wild. Leave that to the professionals.    

    Give back to your local native seed bank. It’s a race against the clock. Help these important institutions financially, sign up to volunteer where you can get trained to help out on projects like seed cleaning, and make your support for native plants known. It’s especially important today, when the current administration is reducing funding and protections for national parks and preserves and conservation. “Talk to your local politicians and voice your concern,” recommends Birker. “And support local nonprofits and organizations doing this work.”   

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  • Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’: Plant of the Year for 2026

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    The Garden Club of America (GCA) has named Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’ Plant of the Year—which, according to its website, “is awarded annually to acknowledge the cultivation and use of native plants, trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, and perennials that are little known but deemed worthy to be preserved, propagated, promoted, and planted.”

    “We engage with a small group of horticulture professionals from various botanical gardens and arboreta in the US. They receive all nominations and rank the plants based on growth factors, ecological services, adaptability, etc.,” explains horticulturalist and Freeman Medal vice chair Cynthia Druckenbrod, of the selection process. “They chose Vernonia lettermanni ‘Iron Butterfly’ because of its late season color, compact growth habit making it successful in backyard gardens, and drought and disease tolerance.”

    Above: Photograph by Krzysztof Ziarnek via Wikimedia.

    While ironweed itself is not unknown, this cultivar is a recent addition. “More nurseries are growing and selling this cultivar now. It was a relatively recent introduction in 2014, and Mt. Cuba Center’s trial of Vernonia cultivars was conducted between 2020 and 2023. During that time, their botanists ranked V. lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’ very high,” she shares.

    The cultivar has a lot going for it—and landscape designers have taken notice (Piet Oudolf has been known to incorporate the plant into his landscapes). With beautiful, almost fern-like narrow leaves, it adds soft mounds of texture in the garden. Its clumping habit makes it well behaved. It can tolerate drought as well as the occasional deluge, making itself happy in just about any part of the garden that has full sun. It can grow in poor soil and doesn’t require much attention, but can benefit with a Chelsea chop in May. Its purple-ish flowers bloom as early as July and can continue to frost, providing food for migrating hummingbirds and butterflies.

    A 5-inch deep pot of Iron Butterfly Ironweed is $17.99 at High Country Gardens.
    Above: A 5-inch deep pot of Iron Butterfly Ironweed is $17.99 at High Country Gardens.

    “Gardens should provide nectar sources for pollinators equally during spring, summer, and fall if possible. I think most tend to focus on mid-summer blooming perennials. Fall-blooming perennials are a real delight providing color until frost and important food resources for insects that overwinter or are laying eggs in the fall.”

    One last thing, if you are wondering if the plant was named after rock band Iron Butterfly, the answer is, yes! Steve Castorani, from North Creek Nurseries, gave it its name as a nod to the band and to the plant’s toughness and ability to thrive in poor conditions.

    Cheat Sheet

    Above: Joe-Pye weed and Vernonia lettermannii in a Pennsylvania garden. Photograph by Larry Weaner, from Garden Visit: Out with the Lawn, In with the Native Plants.
    • Native to Arkansas and Oklahoma, the hardy perennial does best in zones 4 to 9.
    • Tolerates a wide range of soils.
    • Grows to 24- to 36-inches high and 18- to 36-inches wide. Clump forming.
    • Drought tolerant once established.
    • Low maintenance. Happy in a prairie as well as a rock garden.

    Keep It Alive

    A 1-pint pot of Vernonia lettermannii �216;Iron Butterly�217; is $19 at White Flower Farm.
    Above: A 1-pint pot of Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterly’ is $19 at White Flower Farm.
    • Prefers full sun but will tolerate light shade. Too little sun will make the plant floppy.
    • Quite happy in poor soil, since over-rich soil will do the same as too little sun.
    • Very disease- and pest-resistant.

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  • Winterberry 101: Native Berries to Brighten Winter – Gardenista

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    Despite being natively at home in bogs and on the edges of kettle ponds and other wetlands, winterberry, a native holly species, does not require wet feet in order to thrive. Ilex verticillata is a deciduous shrub that escapes notice until late in the season when its rounder-than-round fruit turn scarlet. When its leaves drop, and the fruit blazes on bare branches, it is suddenly the star of any landscape and garden.

    Here’s how to grow it.

    Above: Winterberry’s fruit ripens to red in early autumn.

    Native to the damp and boggy bits of eastern North America, winterberry has been cultivated since at least the late 18th century for its dramatically attractive fruit. It is surprisingly adaptable in terms of its water requirements, though, flourishing in sites that are not moist as long as the soil is acidic. High pH soils will cause chlorosis in the leaves and shrubs may die, while periods of real drought may cause the fruit to drop.

    While winterberry will grow well in high and semi shade, full sun produces more fruit on female plants. Yes, you need a male, too. But one boy shrub is sufficient to provide pollen for several female plants.

    Above: This yellow cultivar is ‘Winter Gold.’

    Winterberry fruit are an important food for resident bird populations as well as small animals who tend to eat them after they have softened, well into winter and often through early spring

    Above: Placing winterberry against an evergreen backdrop makes its branches pop.
    Above: The fruit persists, even during an ice storm.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Winterberry’s native range is from Alabama to Newfoundland.
    • It grows naturally near streams, and in swamps and bogs.
    • The leaves of winter berry are larval food for the pawpaw sphinx, a native butterfly that also feeds on pawpaw (Asimina triloba) leaves.
    • The tiny summer flowers are a food source for small pollinators.
    • The shrubs are dioecious, and you need a male in order for the females to set fruit.
    Above: Living holiday decorations.

    Keep It Alive

    • Winterberry is hardy from USDA zones 3 to 9.
    • It requires acidic soil (low pH) and tolerates wet soil, clay, and very urban conditions.
    • The shrubs will not thrive—and may die—in alkaline soils.

    See also:

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  • Gardening 101: Opium Poppy – Gardenista

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    Opium Poppy, Papaver somniferum

    The notoriety of Papaver somniferum, the “sleep-inducing poppy,” is only partly to do with its outlaw family.

    Opium poppies are grown for their edible seeds and for pharmaceutical uses. The type that you see in gardens—whether your own or in the medicinal section of a botanic garden—is the legal relation, not toxic enough to be useful to anyone. The subversive beauty of P. somniferum is firmly rooted in its fabulous color and texture, and the way it can turn a vegetable patch into a Dutch painting.

    Photography by Jim Powell for Gardenista.

    Self-seeded opium poppy that has not been weeded out of a fennel, in my garden.
    Above: Self-seeded opium poppy that has not been weeded out of a fennel, in my garden.

    More correctly but prosaically called “breadseed poppy,” Papaver somniferum is an unknown quantity when in bud. A couple of nearby seeds may result in shades of profound magenta and desirable pink, like the wild opium poppies in our vegetable garden, at the top of this page. On the other hand, they could germinate into the tawdriest hues of clapped-out mauve, in which case you are perfectly within your rights to pull them out.

    Above: Double varieties of black opium poppy include Papaver somniferum ‘Black Beauty’ and ‘Black Peony’.

    This is the great thing about self-seeding plants: If you edit them, they look purposeful. If you don’t, then they are weeds, run amok. Opium poppies grow well with other poppies, seen here, above, at the Oxford Botanic Garden, in the medicinal plant beds. But it’s more fun to allow them to pop up wherever they like. In soil that is rich, like a vegetable garden, they will grow stout and tall, with handsome glaucous foliage and green-gray seed heads on strong stalks.

    Single deep black opium poppies at Oxford Botanic Garden.
    Above: Single deep black opium poppies at Oxford Botanic Garden.

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  • Perennials for a Shade Garden: Our Favorite Native Species and Hardy Flowering Plants

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    All week, we’re revisiting the most popular stories of 2025, including this one from July.

    A shade garden is a green and contemplative refuge. It can also be a botanical calendar, with flowers signaling the change of seasons. Well-chosen perennials for shade provide texture and pattern, flowers, and sometimes even fruit. They offer an indispensable layer of interest alongside the architecture of shrubs and trees, and the seasonal excitement of shade-loving annuals. Perennials are plants that return every year after a dormant period and they usually bloom for a few weeks. Choosing perennials whose bloom-time is staggered over the growing season gives us that gift that gardeners, in particular, enjoy: anticipation. Our favorite perennials for shade work harder, though, and are about more than flowers—their foliage or form is interesting even when the plant is not flowering. Here are 13 of our favorites.

    Foamflower, Tiarella cordifolia

    Above: Foamflower thrives in pots or in-ground.
    Above: Foamflower creates frothy carpets of flowers in early spring.

    Foamflower blooms in early spring, creating frothy pockets of brightness in the garden. This species of Tiarella propagates itself, establishing new plants from skinny surface-runners, making it a perfect naturalizer for shady path edges and woodland floors. When not in bloom, its maple-shaped leaves create a softly textured quilt. This Eastern native is hardy from USDA zones 4 (and possibly 3) to 9.

    Doll’s eyes, Actaea pachypoda

    Above: The graceful flowers of doll’s eyes are deliciously-scented

    Perhaps one of the best-scented perennials for shade, doll’s eyes are also known as white baneberry, thanks to the plants’ Halloween-ready, toxic white fruit on blood-red stalks in late fall. But in spring, they are all sweetness, with lemon-scented white flowers. This woodland native relishes full shade and blooms in mid-spring above prettily toothed leaves. Doll’s eyes are hardy from zones 3 to 8.

    Wake robin, Trillium species

    Above: Woodland elegance—Trilliums in mid-spring.

    The understated elegance of native Trilliums belongs to a woodland spring. Planted under deciduous trees in soil rich in leaf humus or compost, they bask in spring sunshine and shelter in early summer shade. They are especially effective planted in groups with companion plants that fill out when the Trilliums are dormant, from summer onwards. Different species have blooms that may be white, yellow, or red, with erect or nodding flowers, and most are hardy within zones 4 to 7.

    Meadow rue, Thalictrum species

    Above: The white flowers of native tall meadow rue in a pot on my Brooklyn terrace.
    Above: Meadow rue (native to Asia) has purple flowers.

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  • The Best Plants to Attract Hummingbirds to Your Garden

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    All week, we’re revisiting the most popular stories of 2025, including this one from March.

    The humble hummingbird has always been a pollinator favorite among gardeners, but lately it’s been attracting more (and new) buzz. Katie Tamony, chief marketing officer and trend spotter at Monrovia, tells us she’s been seeing increased interest in drawing hummingbirds to the garden. “I’ve heard it called the next glamour animal—the one they most want to take a photo of, the one that stops them in their tracks when they encounter it in the garden,” she shares.

    Most devoted hummingbird lovers know that these tiny winged creatures especially love bright, tubular or vase-shaped flowers. “The specific shape of these blooms can accommodate the long bills of the hummingbirds, making it easier for them to gather nectar,” says Katie. Another tip: Plant these plants en masse to create a concentrated nectar source: “Their incredibly high metabolism calls for lots of nectar, and they can get it more easily by visiting a mass of flowering plants in one area.” You may also want to consider staggering blooms times for a longer feeding season.

    “But nectar isn’t the only thing that keeps hummingbirds happy,” says Katie. “They’re also always feasting on small insects, a lesser known but essential part of the hummingbird diet. Encouraging insects by not spraying pesticides in the garden and growing a diverse selection of plants is important.”

    Ultimately, of course, there’s no surefire way to lure hummingbirds to your yard. To up your chance of a sighting, Katie suggests mixing appropriate cultivars, like those listed below, with natives in the garden “to create an insect-rich environment that offers more and longer blooms than natives alone.” Add a hummingbird feeder if you want, but it’s not a must: “We used to have one that seemed like the squirrels were also feasting on, so we got rid of it. And we still see a lot of hummingbirds visit our yard.”

    Below, Katie’s picks for cultivars beloved by hummingbirds.

    Featured image above by BudOhio via Flickr.

    Photography below courtesy of Monrovia.

    ‘Stoplights’ Red Yucca

    �216;Stoplights�217; Red Yucca
    Above: ‘Stoplights’ Red Yucca

    ‘Stoplights’ is a no-brainer when it comes to hot, arid climates. Once established, this low-maintenance plant thrives with little water. Slender green leaves send out tall spikes adorned with crimson-red flowers—the color that hummingbirds are famously attracted to. Recommended for USDA Zones 5-11.

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  • Poinsettias: Rethinking a Christmas Cliché – Gardenista

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    Happy holidays! This week we’re revisiting our favorite festive stories from years past, like this one:

    The poinsettia revolution was a long time coming. But worth waiting for.

    It’s been nearly 200 years since Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. diplomat to Mexico, shipped Euphorbia pulcherrima back to South Carolina to propagate. From then, it was only a matter of time before bright red poinsettias became a Christmas cliché.

    Luckily nowadays poinsettia breeders have come up with so many new varieties and colors—pink, apricot, white, cream, gold—that the poinsettia feels new again. This holiday season we’re liberating our potted poinsettias and turning them into cut flowers:

    Photography by Michelle Slatalla.

    Poinsettias in a wide variety of colors and with patterned bracts are widely available during the holiday season. (I found these at shops near my Mill Valley, California home. The plants pictured above came from Nancy Ann Flowers in Sausalito, Berkeley Horticultural Nursery, and a local Whole Foods.)
    Above: Poinsettias in a wide variety of colors and with patterned bracts are widely available during the holiday season. (I found these at shops near my Mill Valley, California home. The plants pictured above came from Nancy Ann Flowers in Sausalito, Berkeley Horticultural Nursery, and a local Whole Foods.)

    For years the Ecke family of Encinatas, California had the market cornered on poinsettias—and deserves the credit for developing pink and white varieties decades ago. In recent years, varieties such as ‘Autumn Leaves’ (yellow) and ‘Envy’ (chartreuse) and ‘Jingle Bell Rock’ with splatter-pattern red and white bracts have broadened the offerings.

    Poinsettia �216;Christmas Beauty Marble�217; has dusty pink bracts outlined in cream.
    Above: Poinsettia ‘Christmas Beauty Marble’ has dusty pink bracts outlined in cream.

    The colorful parts of poinsettia plants are not petals but rather are bracts that radiate outward. Poinsettia flowers are the unobtrusive cluster in the center.

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  • The All-Star List: 5 Plants I Want More of In My Garden – Gardenista

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    December is the month for year-end reviews. There’s already a deluge of best-of lists for books and movies, but what about plants? I think they deserve accolades, too.

    Below, I’ve come up with my personal list of plants that I want more of in my garden. These are five perennial plants that have have proven their mettle and fared well on my property. And because of their stellar performance, I’d like to welcome more of their kind into my garden. They have a few things in common. They are all flowers. They are all in the aster family (the largest plant family). They all do well in zone 7a. They tolerate the local clay soil conditions and while they love sun, they’re also content in part shade. They also support pollinators and put on a good show! What more can a gardener ask for?

    Without further ado…

    Sneezeweed

    Above: Photograph by Andrey Zharkikh via Flickr.

    Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale) has yellow single-petaled flowers that bloom from August to October. A native with a wide North American range in zones 3 to 8, it supports pollinators, is deer-resistant, and can be happy in a rain garden. Mine got a bit too happy, since I forgot the planting adage “sleep, creep, leap.” The first year in the ground, the plant builds roots (sleeps), the second year it switches between roots to top growth (creeps), and the third year, it’s mainly top growth (leaps)! This was the plant’s third year in my yard, and it grew to over five feet—taller than me! Its common name comes from the dried flowers being used as snuff, which is odd, since the plant is toxic to humans. I will divide it in the spring and move it from the front to the back of the bed. (This plant is so self-reliant and fuss-free that it made my list of favorite Low-Maintenance Flowers that Thrive on Benign Neglect.)

    Monkshood

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.
    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    Aconitum carmichaelii ‘Arendsii’ gets its common name from the flower’s unusually draping. It blooms from June through September (although mine lasted well into November this year) and can reach a height of four feet. There are native and nonnative varieties. The native variety, A. noveboracense, is on the federal threatened plant list. All the rest are non-native. (I have a non-native variety. Should native seeds be made available to the public, I would try to grow them.) They like full sun to part shade and damp but well-drained areas in zones 3 to 7. Things you need to know before considering this plant: all parts are highly toxic, and it should be grown where children and pets cannot access it. I have a fenced-in yard and no small children or pets. When I had kids, I removed the plant from my garden, but now that there are only adults in the house, I have brought it back. I will divide it and place it along the fence near my rain garden.

    New England and New York Asters

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    I have a hard time telling apart New England and New York asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae and Symphyotrichum novi-belgii). New England asters have thicker stems and purple-pink flowers that can grow to six feet tall; New York has thinner stems and purple flowers that grow to about four feet tall. Both are native to North America in zones 4 through 8, flower late summer into late fall, and last a long time, supporting migrating monarchs and many native bees. These are just fabulous plants—beautiful, pest- and disease-resistant, low-maintenance, and unfussy in a vast range of conditions. I plan to add these along the back fence in my backyard.

    Blue Stem Goldenrod

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.
    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    Solidago caesia is such a happy plant, with sprays of golden yellow flowers on bluish stems. Unlike the other tall growers on my list, this one grows to just three feet tall and is perfect as a mid-bed plant. It’s a low-maintenance native plant that tolerates poor soil, shade, and benign neglect. It is also far more well behaved than its goldenrod cousins (looking at you Solidago canadensis) and pretty much stays where you plant it. Blue stem goldenrod blooms in fall and supports many pollinators. I’ll plant more of these near my New York and New England asters. Purple and yellow go great together.

    White Snakeroot

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.
    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    Most people consider white snakeroot (Ageratina altissima) a weed. I don’t. Like blue stem goldenrod, it thrives on neglect. It begs you to ignore it; however, you do need to keep an eye on it. It loves to spread. Another aster family plant, this one has small clusters of white flowers in corymbs and can grow two to feet feet high. It blooms from July through November, giving overwintering insects one last chance to fill up before diapause. I currently have a few in my front yard, and they are striking against my blue house. I will divide them in the spring and add them to my rain garden and in the partial shade in the front beds.

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  • 8 Favorites: Houseplants for the Bath – Gardenista

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    The best room in the house for your plants is…the bath. Houseplants perform well with natural light and shower mist; as an added bonus, they also purify the air and bring a touch of green indoors.

    Staghorn Fern

    Above: Staghorn ferns like moist climates and generally require a lot of maneuvering to keep them properly watered. Instead of fussing over yours, give it a permanent home in a shower. Photograph by Katie Newburn for Gardenista.

    Air Plant

    Tillandsias need only the occasional water bath to stay alive. Keeping them next to a bathroom sink makes giving them a quick dip easy to remember and might discourage the accumulation of too much else. Photograph by Katie Newburn for Gardenista.
    Above: Tillandsias need only the occasional water bath to stay alive. Keeping them next to a bathroom sink makes giving them a quick dip easy to remember and might discourage the accumulation of too much else. Photograph by Katie Newburn for Gardenista.

    Waffle Plant

    A Waffle Plant (Hemigraphis alternata ‘Exotica’) is a creeper with crinkly, puckered leaves. Keep it out of direct sunlight. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.
    Above: A Waffle Plant (Hemigraphis alternata ‘Exotica’) is a creeper with crinkly, puckered leaves. Keep it out of direct sunlight. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.

    Ant Plant

    Photograph by Alexa Hotz.
    Above: Photograph by Alexa Hotz.

    With its moisture and steam, a bathroom reminds the Dischidia pectinoides of its home in the rain forest. An Ant Plant is so lavatory-loving that it is content to bloom there for years and years, spicing up your loo with tiny red buds. Every time you take a shower, don’t forget you’re also feeding your Dischidia pectinoides its lunch.

    Angel Vine

    Angel Vine (Muehlenbeckia) hails from a humid climate and to keep it from drying out in indoor air, place near an open window or doorway that opens onto fresh air. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.
    Above: Angel Vine (Muehlenbeckia) hails from a humid climate and to keep it from drying out in indoor air, place near an open window or doorway that opens onto fresh air. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.

    Orchid

    Keep your Phalaenopsis Orchid in its plastic nursery pot and set that pot into a decorative planter (as above). This makes it easy to water the orchid—just set the plastic pot in the sink when it’s time—and gives you the option to display it in an urn or vase that has no drainage holes. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.
    Above: Keep your Phalaenopsis Orchid in its plastic nursery pot and set that pot into a decorative planter (as above). This makes it easy to water the orchid—just set the plastic pot in the sink when it’s time—and gives you the option to display it in an urn or vase that has no drainage holes. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.

    Lace Fern

    To create a tropical oasis in this Japanese-style bath, designer Simon Astridge added potted ferns and other moisture-loving plants. Pictured is the lace fern. See Bathroom of the Week: A Japanese-Style Bath in London, Greenery Included for other plants in this bathroom. Photograph by Nicholas Worley.
    Above: To create a tropical oasis in this Japanese-style bath, designer Simon Astridge added potted ferns and other moisture-loving plants. Pictured is the lace fern. See Bathroom of the Week: A Japanese-Style Bath in London, Greenery Included for other plants in this bathroom. Photograph by Nicholas Worley.

    Chinese Money Plant

    Pilea peperomioides thrives with minimal care. The succulent likes bright indirect sunlight and a little bit of humidity. Let soil dry between waterings. Photograph by French and Tye, courtesy of Bradley Van Der Straeten, from Steal This Look: A Sunshine Bath in a London Townhouse.
    Above: Pilea peperomioides thrives with minimal care. The succulent likes bright indirect sunlight and a little bit of humidity. Let soil dry between waterings. Photograph by French and Tye, courtesy of Bradley Van Der Straeten, from Steal This Look: A Sunshine Bath in a London Townhouse.

    For more houseplant help, see:

    N.B.: This post has been updated with new photos and links; it was first published August 2014.

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  • The Beauty of Decay: 10 Perennials to Add Structure to a Winter Garden – Gardenista

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    As gardens fade and the days darken, it’s tempting to forget about what’s going on outdoors until early spring when everything jolts back into life. But this is a missed opportunity. Careful plant choices can reap major benefits in the winter.

    It’s well known that certain trees and shrubs can play a leading role in the coldest season, but the right perennials and grasses also can look mesmerizing. By focusing on a plant’s structure and its ability to retain its shape, you can create schemes that look incredible in the fourth season. Read on to discover which plants will maximize this effect and learn to embrace the beauty of winter decay:

    Thistles

    Thistles in February. Photograph by Feathering the Nest via Flickr.
    Above: Thistles in February. Photograph by Feathering the Nest via Flickr.

    Spiky plants and thistles including teasel, echinops, and eryngiums tend to hold their structure brilliantly in the winter.

    Echinops

    Globe echinops. Photograph by Tobias Myrstrand Leander via Flickr.
    Above: Globe echinops. Photograph by Tobias Myrstrand Leander via Flickr.

    In winter, the stiff purple-blue heads of echinops turn brown and maintain their posture.

    Grasses

    Grasses and perennials in December at Torrey Pines Nature Reserve in La Jolla, California. Photograph by Anne Reeves via Flickr.
    Above: Grasses and perennials in December at Torrey Pines Nature Reserve in La Jolla, California. Photograph by Anne Reeves via Flickr.

    Play off these strong forms with billowing clumps of airy grasses such as Deschampsia cespitosa or Molinia caerulea which will fade to blond and buff colors over late autumn and early winter.

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  • Gardening 101: Common Fig – Gardenista

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    Common fig, Ficus carica 

    The next plant I plan to buy for myself (and not for a garden client) will definitely be a fig tree. I usually harvest figs from my clients’ trees, and any fruit that goes uneaten I turn into yummy fig jam, but transporting delicate, thin-skinned figs home is a tenuous and messy activity. The solution is simple: it’s time to grow my own.

    Native to the Middle East and parts of Asia, figs are one of the oldest known fruits (they were one of the first trees to be cultivated in Egypt) and came to North America by Spanish missionaries in the early sixteenth century. The fruit, to some, represents the womb, and more generally, fertility. (Interestingly, fig flowers hide inside the fruit.) And the expression, “fig leaf,” is used figuratively to describe an object used to cover up something embarrassing—obviously a Biblical reference to Adam and Eve using fig leaves to cover their nakedness.

    Above: Photograph by Marla Aufmuth for Gardenista, from Stalking the Wild Fig.

    More than 700 named cultivars of the common fig exist, and they flourish in areas with a Mediterranean climate, meaning mild winters and hot, dry summers. If you live in USDA Zones 8 to 10, you can grow an attractive fig tree in your garden without needing protection from freezing winter temperatures. If you live outside of those zones, pick hardier cultivars or grow your fig in a large container, top dress with compost, and bring into an unheated garage for the winter.

    Above: A sampling of figs grown in the orchard of the University of California at Davis. Photograph by Marla Aufmuth for Gardenista, from Stalking the Wild Fig.

    Relatively fast, fig trees can soar from about 10 to 30 feet tall if planted in the ground. Grown in containers, the tree’s height and width will be much smaller. With many varieties available, and with such a broad range of fruit color, shape, and taste, choosing the best option can be intimidating. I always recommend starting with a variety well-suited to your climate, then go for taste and color second. Also, a reassuring fact is that common fig trees grown in home gardens don’t require another fig for pollination, and because they don’t need an opening for pollinating wasps to enter, they are less vulnerable to rot caused by rainwater or other insects. The best option is to visit your local nursery and see what varieties they carry or what they recommend.

    Potted fig trees won�217;t grow as tall or wide as those planted in the ground. A 3-gallon pot of Ficus carica �216;Little Miss Figgy�217; Tree is $71.95 at Fast Growing Trees.
    Above: Potted fig trees won’t grow as tall or wide as those planted in the ground. A 3-gallon pot of Ficus carica ‘Little Miss Figgy’ Tree is $71.95 at Fast Growing Trees.

    In the right conditions, and on some varieties like San Pedro, your fig tree could produce two times a year.  The first crop, called a “breba” crop (from the Spanish word Breva, meaning ‘early fig’), is the fig produced on last year’s wood and ripens in late May or early June, and a second will be ready to harvest in late September to early November.

    While it’s the fruit that is commonly eaten, and well-known to be rich in calcium, B-vitamins, and important minerals, the young mildly fragrant fig leaves are also edible, and they add a nice vanilla flavor to food. The first record of fig leaves being used to wrap food is in third century BC.

    Common Varieties for Home Gardens

    The �216;Brown Turkey�217; Fig Tree is $79.99 for a 1-gallon pot at Pixies Gardens.
    Above: The ‘Brown Turkey’ Fig Tree is $79.99 for a 1-gallon pot at Pixies Gardens.
    • Brown Turkey: Large, sweet figs with few seeds emerge over a long season.
    • Purple Genoa (also called Black Spanish or Black Genoa): Large, deep purple figs with sweet red flesh. Great for turning into jam.
    • Alma: A late season fig, this tree produces rich tasting figs.
    • Celeste: This moderately sized tree to 15 feet tree produces smaller fruit and earlier than most. This tree is popular in the southeastern United States because it can tolerate heat and cold better.
    • Mission: Sweet purplish black fruit ripens in summer. This fig was used in historic California Missions and can live a long time.

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  • Gardening 101: How to Store Dahlia Tubers in Winter – Gardenista

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    I don’t know any gardeners who casually grow dahlias. Their fireworks riot of color has an intoxicating effect. You may start with one dahlia, but before you know it you have torn out the roses, planted five hundred tubers and (in at least one documented case), transformed an old tennis court into a fenced garden to make room for more flowers.

    But dahlia devotees pay a price. In cold climates (read: the ground freezes), dahlia tubers need to come out of the garden if they are to survive the winter. Dig them up and store them in the basement, garage, or a protected shed—and dahlias will reward you next summer with more enormous puffball blooms. It’s worth the effort.

    Here are step-by-step instructions for how to store dahlia tubers in winter:

    Photography by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.

    1. Wait for the first frost.

    Dahlias will bloom well into autumn if you deadhead them to coax more flowers. But frost will put a stop to that.
    Above: Dahlias will bloom well into autumn if you deadhead them to coax more flowers. But frost will put a stop to that.

    Flowers will wilt, leaves will blacken, and dahlia stems will die back after the first frost; you’ll know it’s time to store tubers in a safe spot for the winter.

    2. Dig up dahlias.

    Be careful when you dig up dahlias because, as you can see, a single plant may have a clump of connected tubers and a far-reaching root system.
    Above: Be careful when you dig up dahlias because, as you can see, a single plant may have a clump of connected tubers and a far-reaching root system.

    To dig up, first cut back stalks to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Then start about a foot away from the plant, loosening soil all around the roots and digging deep enough (18 to 24 inches) to get your shovel underneath the dahlia to tease it out of the ground.

    Dig up one clump of tubers at a time and be gentle; the tubers are fragile and break apart easily.

    3. Rinse off dirt.

    Use a gentle spray from a garden hose to wash off soil so you can see the tubers and root system of individual clumps of dahlias.
    Above: Use a gentle spray from a garden hose to wash off soil so you can see the tubers and root system of individual clumps of dahlias.

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  • American Persimmon Tree: How to Grow the Native Tree

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    Growing American persimmon trees checks several horticultural and culinary boxes. American persimmon—Diospsyros virginiana and hybrids of this species—are very cold hardy fruit trees, with deliciously sweet fruit, and they can be grown in regions where larger fruited Asian persimmons will succumb to very cold winters. The native fruit differs from the East Asian D. kaki in that it is small, around ping-pong ball-sized. The deep orange little persimmons remain on the tree like glowing ornaments well into cold weather, dropping when very ripe or shaken loose by wind.

    Above: Wild American persimmon fruit is about ping-pong ball-sized.

    Stately American persimmon trees belong to the ebony family (Ebenaceae) and are native to the central and eastern United States. The blocky bark of mature trees distinguishes them quickly from other woodland trees, and in late fall their vivid fruit on bare branches makes them easy to spot.

    The word persimmon is derived from putchamin, an Algonquin name for the native fruit.

    Above: American persimmons will ripen off the tree, like their East Asian Hachiya persimmon cousins.
    Above: A baby American persimmon, still attached to its flower in early summer.

    Cheat Sheet

    • American persimmons are very cold hardy, down to -25°F.
    • The fruit is sweetly ripe when very soft.
    • Generally, only wild persimmons taste better after a frost; breeders have developed cultivars that ripen before frost.
    • Wild native persimmons contain a few flattened seeds, as do some cultivars.
    • For a seedless American persimmon, try the ‘Ennis’ cultivar.
    • Persimmons can be grown from seed but it may take up to nine years for them to fruit.
    • Planting saplings gives you a head start on fruit production.
    Above: Hoshigaki are peeled, air-dried persimmons; traditionally made from Asian fruit; if you try this with American persimmons, know that they dry more quickly.

    Fascinating Fact and Caution

    • Diospyrobezoar is a rare but serious gastric malady caused by the ingestion of the specific tannins in persimmon skin and in all unripe persimmons; it is a mass that can require surgery to remove. It’s all about dose: Eat only ripe persimmons, and in moderation.

    (Some) Cultivars of American Persimmon

    ‘Prok’: reputed to be the best tasting American persimmon.
    ‘C-100’: known for having attractive red fall foliage.
    ‘Killen’ Diospyros virginiana ‘Killen’: bears medium-sized fruit.
    ‘Meader’ Diospyros virginiana ‘Meader’: bears apricot-sized fruit and leaves turn a deep orange in fall.
    ‘Morris Burton’ Diospyros virginiana ‘Morris Burton’: considered one of the best native persimmons.

    Above: Thanksgiving-ripe persimmons on bare branches.

    Keep It Alive

    • Cold hardy American persimmons can be grown from USDA growing zones 4 to 9 (plant Asian cultivars if you live in a higher zone).
    • While some cultivars are self-pollinating, others require a male tree nearby.
    • Diospyros virginiana is a very tall tree (think 80 feet); but several varieties are bred to be smaller.
    • American persimmon will grow in semi shade but produces more fruit in full sun.

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  • Datura: How to Grow Devil’s Trumpet Flower, a White Bloom with a Sweet Perfume

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    Devil’s Trumpet, Datura

    Some of the last flowers to bloom as the growing season draws to a close are Halloween-ready: the headily scented trumpets of Datura are as ethereal as they are toxic. Until a neighbor began growing them in his city tree bed every summer, I paid the plants little mind. Sidewalks are very rough on any living thing, and the flourishing forms of these resilient annual shrubs won me over. Despite complete neglect—receiving no supplemental water, no food, and a lot of unwanted liquid attention from passing dogs—buds keep forming, blooms keep opening every night, and passersby keep being enchanted by the combination of perfume and near-artificial flower perfection, and, later, by the prickly seed capsules. The fact that Datura is strongly associated with toxic, hallucinogenic, and medicinal effects adds to its intrigue.

    Here’s more about alluring Datura, also known as devil’s trumpet.

    Above: After a slow start, the plants begin to bloom daily after midsummer.

    The flowers of Datura are vespertine, unfurling at night, and lasting until the middle of the following day. The strongly scented flowers attract sphinx moths, which are their primary pollinators.

    Above: Datura flowers always point upwards.

    Various Datura species share a long list of common names that include devil’s trumpet, moonflower, thorn-apple, and jimsonweed. The name angel’s trumpet refers to species of Brugmansia, whose flowers are pendant rather than upright, growing on woodier, taller shrubs.

    Above: The flower buds can be as long as eight inches.
    Above: Their night-scent develops through the evening.

    Despite the flowers’ sweet scent, the crushed leaves have an unpleasant odor. While not absolutely deer-proof, Datura is not top of the list for the browsing herbivores. Cases of poisoning usually affect humans, not animals, since the animals may know better.

    Toxic alkaloids are found in all parts of Datura but are concentrated in the seeds. The level of toxicity can vary very widely depending on the specific plant, which is why humans looking to experience a botanical high may instead became extremely ill, or (rarely) slightly dead.

    Before anyone panics, bear in mind that we feel comfortable around highly toxic plants like yew, foxglove, hellebore and oleander; we barely consider their complex properties.

    For more about these such plants consider Amy Stewart’s classic spooky-season book Wicked Plants: The Weed That Killed Lincoln’s Mother and Other Botanical Atrocities.

    Above: A spiny Datura seed capsule.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Datura belongs to the nightshade family (Solanaceae), which includes well known edible plants like tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and black nightshade.
    • Daturas’ origins may be American, although there is evidence of their sacred and medicinal use in Asia for millennia.
    • In South America Datura stromium leaves were (and may still be) used to treat asthma.
    • All parts of Datura contain toxic, psychoactive alkaloids.
    • Flowers open at night and last into the next day.
    Above: The sculpted, waxy-looking trumpets of Datura last until the middle of the day.

    Keep It Alive

    • Datura is hardy from USDA growing zones 9 to 11, where it is a short-lived perennial.
    • Most gardeners grow it as an annual.
    • Plant in beds as a focal point, or in a large pots (16 inches diameter, minimum).
    • Grow in full sun for the most flowers.
    • Plants will self seed even where in cold winters, but you can collect seed when the spiny capsules split to release them.
    • Seeds germinate only when nights are above 55°F and days are warm.
    • Give the plants room to spread, since they can reach three to four feet in circumference.
    • Once established, they are very tolerant of dry periods.

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  • Moonflower Vine: How to Grow Ipomea Alba, a Night-Blooming Flower

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    Moonflower vines are a quiet delight of the waning season. They are morning glory’s nocturnal cousin, and their wide, near-luminous white blooms begin to unfold every twilight at the end of summer. As the days continue to contract, and nights lengthen, a signal is sent to these photoperiodic tropical vines to begin making buds. At first, the blooms can only be enjoyed if you are out there with them, in the dark, but as temperatures cool and nights grow even longer, the flowers last well into the morning hours, and also open earlier in the day. At their peak they resemble an ethereal collective of sensitive and perfumed radio telescopes, poised to listen to something beyond our reach.

    Photography by Marie Viljoen.

    Above: The first moonflowers open at dusk. As nights lengthen they open earlier, and last longer.

    Ipomea alba is native to the tropical Americas and as far north as Florida, where it is a perennial. In cooler climates moonflower is grown as an annual climber whose tendrils can be expected to exceed fifteen feet.

    Above: Night-scented moonflowers attract sphinx and hummingbird moths.

    As a small-space gardener, I value moonflower vine for its ability to grow in a (large) pot, cover a trellis or railing in heart-shaped foliage within a couple of months of sowing, and for its exceptionally beautiful flowers, whose structural appeal is mesmerizing—try watching a six-inch long bud as it unspirals slowly and unfolds until full-blown—a botanical meditation. And then there is that fragrance, which sometimes lures long-tongued moths to visit after dark.

    Above: Moonflowers begin to bloom in July, reaching peak bloom a couple of months later.

    Keep It Alive:

    • Moonflower seeds will not germinate if temperatures are too low. Don’t even think about sowing them outdoors until nights remain consistently above 55°F (which means that the soil temperature is warm enough). The same goes for seedlings bought at nurseries. Watch the weather and plant them only once that nightly benchmark of 55° has been reached. In my USDA growing zone 7b that is around mid to late May.
    • The seeds should be soaked before sowing to soften their hard, protective capsules. This may take 12 to 24 hours.
    • Moonflowers are slow to take off. These vines will not sprint out of the starting gate. Instead, expect them to begin their fastest growth about two months after sowing.
    • For container gardeners, choose a large pot to sow them in, at least 16 inches in diameter. Moonflower vines are rambunctious and need room to grow to their full potential. They will also need a deep and daily watering.
    Above: Planted near seating, moonflowers’ delicate form offers a floral meditation.
    Above: As days cool and nights grow even longer, the flowers open in the afternoon and last well into the morning hours.
    Above: By late September many blooms open daily.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Moonflowers are Ipomea alba, a night-blooming morning glory.
    • They are native to the tropical Americas.
    • Despite their common name, they will bloom during the day as nights grow longer.
    • Do not grow them in Hawai’i where moonflowers are invasive.
    • The common name moonflower also refers to Datura species.
    Above: Moonflowers can share a vertical growing space with summer crops like beans.

    See also:

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  • Expert Advice: 10 Tips from Old House Gardens for Planning a Spring Bulb Garden – Gardenista

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    In Chicago, where I grew up, tulips were pretty much the only thing that kept us going through the winter. You can survive snow, and you can survive ice, and you can even survive the razor winds that blow in from the lake to rub your face raw, if you know that one day you will look out a window and see a clump of tulips, their swan necks improbably supporting the weight of their fat flowers.

    But it can be daunting, in the autumn, to figure out how precisely to make tulips happen. Which varieties to plant? Will crocuses grow in your climate? How do you gracefully make room in the garden for flowers that bloom briefly before producing withering foliage you shouldn’t cut back for weeks?

    For advice, I phoned bulb grower Scott Kunst of Old House Gardens in Michigan. He grows and sells hundreds of hardy and rare, vintage varieties of tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, bluebells, and other bulbs.

    “Start small,” he suggested.

    Here are Scott Kunst’s 10 ideas for planning a spring bulb garden:

    Photography by Michelle Slatalla except where noted.

    Know your microclimate.

    Above: Photograph by John Merkl for Gardenista.

    Go outdoors and take stock of your garden’s microclimate: where are the sunny spots and well-drained soil? That’s where most bulbs grow best. Draw a garden plan to remind yourself.

    Buy 5, 7, 9, or 11.

    Above: At Rodsmarton Manor. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer, for Gardenista.

    While you’re looking at your garden, imagine clumps of bulbs, planted in clusters of five or more of a single variety; that’s how they look best.

    Know your hardiness zone.

    The US Department of Agriculture has developed a map of hardiness zones to help you choose plants that will survive in the climate of your geographic area. Check your USDA hardiness zone by entering your zip code at USDA Plant Hardiness Map; purchase bulbs that are rated for your zone. You can search for bulbs for your zone with the Heirloom Bulb Finder at Old House Gardens.

    Start small.

    Here are some Foolproof Spring Bulbs for a Beginner. Photograph by Meredith Swinehart.
    Above: Here are some Foolproof Spring Bulbs for a Beginner. Photograph by Meredith Swinehart.

    The first year you plant bulbs, fill a few holes in the garden rather than trying to make the whole garden look like a field in Holland.

    Use a fence as backdrop.

    Photograph by Scott Patrick Myers.
    Above: Photograph by Scott Patrick Myers.

    Plant bulbs in narrow, curving clusters that run parallel to the fence. “This is a trick I learned from Gertrude Jekyll,” says Kunst. “Rather than planting a big, round circle that’s three feet wide, make a gentle curve that’s about 18 inches wide. The bulbs will be in your line of vision when they bloom, and after they go over, other plants behind and in front will hide the yellow foliage.”

    Heights may vary.

    Above: Narcissi pictured here in floral designer Milli Proust’s windowsill. Photograph courtesy of Milli Proust, from Cult Narcissi: Rethinking the Uncool Daffodil.

    When deciding where to place bulbs, take size guidelines with a grain of salt. Heights of the same variety of bulb can vary from one year to the next, and in different growing zones. “It’s OK to mix up heights,” says Kunst. “It looks less garden-y than if you try to put all the tall ones in the back and all the short ones in the front.”

    Don’t let them touch.

    Photograph by John Merkl for Gardenista. For more, see Gardening 101: How to Plant a Spring Bulb.
    Above: Photograph by John Merkl for Gardenista. For more, see Gardening 101: How to Plant a Spring Bulb.

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  • All-White Gardens: 15 Favorite Examples of White-on-White Landscapes

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    Nature abhors a monoculture, but not necessarily a monochrome culture. Against a leafy green backdrop, a single color stands out dramatically—particularly when that hue is white. Here are 15 of our favorite white-on-white plant palettes for a garden bed: For more monochromatic(ish) gardens, see: 11 Ideas to Steal for a Moonlight Garden Now Trending: 9 […]

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